Scoring the piece is done at the exact place where the cut is going to take place. I can't believe that there would be an offset just for that. Precut is done to prevent ruining the top edge of the piece due to the blade cutting upwards. It seems that the top edge is perfect, whereas the bottom edge (where the blade cut while rotation upwards in the front) is unacceptably chipped badly). Something is wrong cause where the tool must preform IT DOES IT perfectly. It's the top edge that is always the problem. Great tool. Will be getting one.
+ Jonathan m if blade was offset at 1/10tg of mm, then thats mean its cuting your rubber strip at your guide rail, and it will not work proper (im talking about guide rail) at normal cut. 0:48, so it cant be true.
Or just drop the blade to where it kisses the work surface then do a scoring cut. I saw a bit of tearout, minimal, but tearout. The scoring button is too deep. Same problem on the Makita. Best to do it manually.
Lowzsir69, it's actually 2 seperate connectors butted up to each other to add some extra heft and stiffness to the guide rail when lifting it up and placing it down on to a workpiece.
Jonathan I like the way you adapted the MFT to take the Mafell rail but I have a question for you. My saw is the same generation as yours with the same old style Systainer case. How do you get the angular rail to sit in that position in the case. I have tried an it is too long I even took a picture of when you first opened the box and tried putting in the Sam location and the rail is just too long. Did you shorten the rail to accommodate It?? It has been bugging me since I first saw this post a couple of years ago
Hello yodabert1, I did not have to modify anything on the angle attachment for it to fit in the systainer... Perhaps they changed the design since I bought mine? I have no idea... I just have to adjust the angle and it just fits in the systainer as is.
Thanks for coming back so quickly when you are perhaps next in the shop you would kindly measure the overall length of your one so I can compare I would be interested. From the look of it you have the ORIGINAL mark 1 version the same as mine . I guess it is possible mine was cut longer by a few mm however their attention to detail is usually 100%
I’ve just come across your video Jonathan and although I can see the end result is far from being acceptable for finished work running a test like this has to be conducted under strict conditions ie, was this a Mafell blade?, was it new, has the splinter guard previously been used for a bevel cut? All of the above will have a huge impact on the finished result but the blade is thinner than the Festool and others for that matter and the track has dual rubber splinter guards so in effect one for straight and one for bevel cuts.
Not a lot of thought went into this to be honest. This was an ad-hoc sort of test. Standard 48T Mafell blade with a lot of miles on it on the jobsites. Definitely not new. Same for the splinter guard on the rail. And the MFT table top from HDF already had some sag to it. (As you can see where some dust is coming out from under the laminated test piece.) The cheapest low quality laminated sheet of particle board you find in the DIY tool store. All things considered depending on the application the left side of the cut is perfectly useable. Just a little blowout on the waste side and bottom. This isn't a €7000-20000 panel saw with dedicated prescoring blade. So all in all I'm happy with the results and the saw is still going strong from 2012. Even after a handful of drops from the table. If youre in the market for a quality tracksaw, and appreciate it for what it is, it's hard to beat the Mafell. But you are right next time I need to think more about all the variables. Thanks for watching the video. Hope it was in some way helpful for you
Does your MT55 cut exactly on the lip of the rail if you're doing bevel cuts? Mine is off by 1-1,5mm .. (at least if I use clamps to fix the rail). Otherwise it's a really nice machine.
Hallo, I ordered mafell MT 55C, it was all new of course, but after plug it in, the sound motor and vibration was slightly irregular, like a little phase. Is that normal? Else it's a grate mashine but I'm afraid 8 need to reorder it Pleas help if this phase type vibration is normal Thank you
No vibrations but the rpm going up and down is normal, due to the tachometer accelerating while necessary ( if pushing fast in a hard wood for instance) also have a modified cam that allows you clean cuts.. May be the origin of those so called vibrations
It's a nice time saving feature, but nothing more. Running a score cut with any track saw gives the the same results. The real problem occurs on the backside which although the amount of chipout is small if done on a light coloured board and edgebanded will be very visible. IME the only way for both sides clean cut on melamine is to final trim with a router.
hinduspl, I really have no complaints. It's been a workhorse and steady performer for me. I have some wear and tear scratches, some chipped paint on the bottom of the baseplate and after dropping it twice from the workbench on to the concrete floor a tiny 6mm piece of the magnesium baseplate broke off in the top left corner. Basically the top left tip. But all in all, after over 2 years of solid use, falling from the bench twice, the blade is still perfectly aligned. It's very expensive but Mafell makes worksite grade gear that lasts. No need to baby it.
If I dropped my saw on the concrete even a few inches, I would loose it. Most of my neighbors would also know. I may have to do some regular chanting. Just to hear you have dropped your saw from the table altitude, I am feeling like I am getting the shingles on the side of my neck.
I would get the mafell, the iPhone 6 will require some modifications to run on a guide rail. the mafell however does this perfectly out of the box and can also make telephone calls to a reasonable standard.
I put the connectors in to give the rail more weight and stability. I like it better when the rail is heavy and stiff, especially when i'm cutting small pieces, the rail does not bend under the weight of the saw now.
@@jonathanm8016 many thanks for your reply. I have one more question, in case I have to do a miter cut, should I score at 45 degree? which procedure are you use to do?
that blade offset doesnt exist at any circular saw. its just a bullshit, mafell doesnt confirm this also. It cannot be obtained on circular saw because of the build limitations.
![[FULL EP.14] เซียนหรั่ง สอน มาร์ชจุ จับปูนา ฮากระจาย | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M8mPjd_T2lo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great saw for the money!
Scoring the piece is done at the exact place where the cut is going to take place. I can't believe that there would be an offset just for that. Precut is done to prevent ruining the top edge of the piece due to the blade cutting upwards. It seems that the top edge is perfect, whereas the bottom edge (where the blade cut while rotation upwards in the front) is unacceptably chipped badly). Something is wrong cause where the tool must preform IT DOES IT perfectly. It's the top edge that is always the problem. Great tool. Will be getting one.
How much dust as the blade exits the wood at the end of the cut? Ts55/75 are disappointing there.
+
Jonathan m
if blade was offset at 1/10tg of mm, then thats mean its cuting your rubber strip at your guide rail, and it will not work proper (im talking about guide rail) at normal cut. 0:48, so it cant be true.
Tools from germany the best
Any issues with the score cut leaving a shadow gap ?
you can get even better results (or better with more blunt blade) making the first cut backward.
Or just drop the blade to where it kisses the work surface then do a scoring cut. I saw a bit of tearout, minimal, but tearout. The scoring button is too deep. Same problem on the Makita. Best to do it manually.
Jonathan! where did you get that longer guide rail connector?
Lowzsir69, it's actually 2 seperate connectors butted up to each other to add some extra heft and stiffness to the guide rail when lifting it up and placing it down on to a workpiece.
Jonathan I like the way you adapted the MFT to take the Mafell rail but I have a question for you. My saw is the same generation as yours with the same old style Systainer case. How do you get the angular rail to sit in that position in the case. I have tried an it is too long I even took a picture of when you first opened the box and tried putting in the Sam location and the rail is just too long. Did you shorten the rail to accommodate It?? It has been bugging me since I first saw this post a couple of years ago
Hello yodabert1, I did not have to modify anything on the angle attachment for it to fit in the systainer... Perhaps they changed the design since I bought mine? I have no idea... I just have to adjust the angle and it just fits in the systainer as is.
Thanks for coming back so quickly when you are perhaps next in the shop you would kindly measure the overall length of your one so I can compare I would be interested. From the look of it you have the ORIGINAL mark 1 version the same as mine . I guess it is possible mine was cut longer by a few mm however their attention to detail is usually 100%
@@yodabert1 postimg.cc/LqF4CNsv
How were you able to connect the mafell track to the Festool MFT/3 table? Any modifications?
mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/67/use-mafell-guide-rail-mft?page=1
How to fix the bus to the mft table?
I’ve just come across your video Jonathan and although I can see the end result is far from being acceptable for finished work running a test like this has to be conducted under strict conditions ie, was this a Mafell blade?, was it new, has the splinter guard previously been used for a bevel cut?
All of the above will have a huge impact on the finished result but the blade is thinner than the Festool and others for that matter and the track has dual rubber splinter guards so in effect one for straight and one for bevel cuts.
Not a lot of thought went into this to be honest. This was an ad-hoc sort of test.
Standard 48T Mafell blade with a lot of miles on it on the jobsites. Definitely not new. Same for the splinter guard on the rail.
And the MFT table top from HDF already had some sag to it. (As you can see where some dust is coming out from under the laminated test piece.)
The cheapest low quality laminated sheet of particle board you find in the DIY tool store.
All things considered depending on the application the left side of the cut is perfectly useable. Just a little blowout on the waste side and bottom.
This isn't a €7000-20000 panel saw with dedicated prescoring blade. So all in all I'm happy with the results and the saw is still going strong from 2012. Even after a handful of drops from the table.
If youre in the market for a quality tracksaw, and appreciate it for what it is, it's hard to beat the Mafell.
But you are right next time I need to think more about all the variables.
Thanks for watching the video. Hope it was in some way helpful for you
Does your MT55 cut exactly on the lip of the rail if you're doing bevel cuts? Mine is off by 1-1,5mm .. (at least if I use clamps to fix the rail). Otherwise it's a really nice machine.
magicmaui77 I agree mine does the same thing, does yours my angle indicator arrow is off too & I’ve tried to re-adjust it !
I see you use festool also. how does this compare to say a TS 55?
Daniel Blackwell
As someone who has used both, the Blade is the real issue.
But festool have the superior splinter guard for both sides.
Hallo, I ordered mafell MT 55C, it was all new of course, but after plug it in, the sound motor and vibration was slightly irregular, like a little phase.
Is that normal?
Else it's a grate mashine but I'm afraid 8 need to reorder it
Pleas help if this phase type vibration is normal
Thank you
No vibrations but the rpm going up and down is normal, due to the tachometer accelerating while necessary ( if pushing fast in a hard wood for instance) also have a modified cam that allows you clean cuts.. May be the origin of those so called vibrations
It's a nice time saving feature, but nothing more. Running a score cut with any track saw gives the the same results. The real problem occurs on the backside which although the amount of chipout is small if done on a light coloured board and edgebanded will be very visible. IME the only way for both sides clean cut on melamine is to final trim with a router.
For the video it shows how accurate and clean the cut is.
+Jonathan m how your maffel after havy use? I consider getting one, Mafell 55cc or iphone 6s, cannot decide.
hinduspl, I really have no complaints. It's been a workhorse and steady performer for me.
I have some wear and tear scratches, some chipped paint on the bottom of the baseplate and after dropping it twice from the workbench on to the concrete floor a tiny 6mm piece of the magnesium baseplate broke off in the top left corner. Basically the top left tip.
But all in all, after over 2 years of solid use, falling from the bench twice, the blade is still perfectly aligned. It's very expensive but Mafell makes worksite grade gear that lasts. No need to baby it.
If I dropped my saw on the concrete even a few inches, I would loose it. Most of my neighbors would also know. I may have to do some regular chanting. Just to hear you have dropped your saw from the table altitude, I am feeling like I am getting the shingles on the side of my neck.
I would get the mafell, the iPhone 6 will require some modifications to run on a guide rail. the mafell however does this perfectly out of the box and can also make telephone calls to a reasonable standard.
Hi why are you leaving in use two connecting pices even if you are wotking with a single guide rail? Thanks
I put the connectors in to give the rail more weight and stability. I like it better when the rail is heavy and stiff, especially when i'm cutting small pieces, the rail does not bend under the weight of the saw now.
@@jonathanm8016 many thanks for your reply. I have one more question, in case I have to do a miter cut, should I score at 45 degree? which procedure are you use to do?
Wait what? How can this be?!?!
How did you get that connection on the power cable?
robert hutcheson, th-cam.com/video/AzOOGCViWtQ/w-d-xo.html
@@jonathanm8016
What would the benefit of using a Mafell on an MFT rail system be?
Would it not just be easier to use a Festool saw?
What is the table you are using to cut on??
Hi Brad,
it's a Festool MFT/3 with a Mafell guide rail fitted.
Jonathan m thank you
Cat got your tongue?
A maquina e ótima. ..Mas por RS 3600.00..Ao judia do peão né. ..da pra comprar 2 da Makita
What table is that?
Hi Goran,
it's a Festool MFT 3 but with Mafell guide rail fitted.,
Amigo quanto custa uma dessa para mandar para o Brasil?
Ola, sou brasileiro esta maquina custa 2900 reais,mas creio nao encontrara no brasil.De qual regiao do brasil vc è posso enviar.
that blade offset doesnt exist at any circular saw. its just a bullshit, mafell doesnt confirm this also. It cannot be obtained on circular saw because of the build limitations.
that's bs - simply make a cut with this Mafell and have a close look at the cut - you can clearly see the 0.1mm offset.
Great saw. Crap video.