วีดีโอ

I put the connectors in to give the rail more weight and stability. I like it better when the rail is heavy and stiff, especially when i'm cutting small pieces, the rail does not bend under the weight of the saw now.

@@jonathanm8016 many thanks for your reply. I have one more question, in case I have to do a miter cut, should I score at 45 degree? which procedure are you use to do?

Mine forgets the offset values 🥺

you don't seem to be an engineer. you could see it was zero at the middle and in the corners bed was 0.2mm lower. simple it's warped

no, it is 0.2mm, you are wrong

that big numbers are in 0.1 mm increment because one small line is 0.01 mm as written on the gauge

can you please try to lay the glass bed on a mirror surface and check if it spins with , that would prove the pyramid shape of the glass .

Good point. Maybye the belt is overtensioned, loosing it may work out...

it's not the sound of a cracking in the extruder, but the cracking of the cable sheath (conduit) (sorry for my English)

Hi Exesor, I love what you did with the rotating filament feeding and lighting. Any chance we can get a better look at how you did that and how you mounted your LED strips? I don't know where we can buy new glass beds for the Sermoon. There does not seem to be any 3rd party or replacements parts for this machine anywhere. I have contacted a few sellers of aftermarket build plates and ABS-3D told me they can build a custom bed for the Sermoon. I contacted Creality about my glass bed, but they will only send me a new one if I can show them in a video that I can put 3 sheets of paper under the warps. Unfortunately I can only get 2 sheets under :( So I guess I won't be getting a new bed. To fix my problem I have ordered: * JGAURORA A5 A5S - Aluminium Druckbett ( www.abs-3d.de/druckbetten/druckbetten-nicht-magnetisch/jgaurora/646/jgaurora-a5-a5s-aluminium-druckbett ) * Magnetic foil ( princore.de/products/magnetplatte?_pos=1&_sid=a6c33792a&_ss=r ) * BTT BIQU PEI-Federstahl-Platte (www.abs-3d.de/druckbetten/druckbetten-magnetisch/druckbettauflagen/672/btt-biqu-pei-federstahl-platte?c=126) I tried my best to measure the original heat bed with a dial gauge and put on aluminium tape to get it as level as i could. Then I drilled 4 holes in the new plate to mount it to the heatbed. Added the magnetic foil and then the flexible build surface from Biqu. It is a heavier assembly now, but it seems to work. Before every print I do manually re-level with the dial gauge gig I made. The bed is still not 100% flat, the variations are now around 0.06mm, but now I can at least use the printer for large prints.

@@jonathanm8016 Thank you very much for your detailed answer. I have already asked Creality several times about spare parts, but these are not available yet. I hope to get a new glass platform one day and thus solve the problem maybe.

@@jonathanm8016 how I can contact you privat, because i have too explain it. It's more difficult as you can see

Hello yodabert1, I did not have to modify anything on the angle attachment for it to fit in the systainer... Perhaps they changed the design since I bought mine? I have no idea... I just have to adjust the angle and it just fits in the systainer as is.

Thanks for coming back so quickly when you are perhaps next in the shop you would kindly measure the overall length of your one so I can compare I would be interested. From the look of it you have the ORIGINAL mark 1 version the same as mine . I guess it is possible mine was cut longer by a few mm however their attention to detail is usually 100%

@@yodabert1 postimg.cc/LqF4CNsv

A few years ago the parent tool company TTS had both the Protool and Festool brands under the umbrella. Protool were the construction tools like concrete grinders, chainsaw, mixers, PDC drill etc... and had an orange accent color while Festool were the cabinet maker tools for woodworkers with a green accent color. Then they decided to merge the brands together under the Festool name and the Protool brand was dissolved. So long story short, Festool, Protool, they are the same thing, before they just were split up in 2 different brands for different branches of construction, now it's all been re-labeled Festool.

Edgar, it's still the original Festool hinge, I just swapped the bolts that mount the rail to the hinge with thinner profile Kreg T-Bolts (regular t-bolts don't fit the thin T-slot of the Mafell rails). th-cam.com/video/o9q617u00IE/w-d-xo.html

Jonathan m What a great solution..!!! Thank you. (Do you happen to know the part name of the Festool hinge?) Also thank you for the link, The video is exactly what I needed.!!! 👍🏻

No vibrations but the rpm going up and down is normal, due to the tachometer accelerating while necessary ( if pushing fast in a hard wood for instance) also have a modified cam that allows you clean cuts.. May be the origin of those so called vibrations

Hi Goran, it's a Festool MFT 3 but with Mafell guide rail fitted.,

Belgian :)

Not a lot of thought went into this to be honest. This was an ad-hoc sort of test. Standard 48T Mafell blade with a lot of miles on it on the jobsites. Definitely not new. Same for the splinter guard on the rail. And the MFT table top from HDF already had some sag to it. (As you can see where some dust is coming out from under the laminated test piece.) The cheapest low quality laminated sheet of particle board you find in the DIY tool store. All things considered depending on the application the left side of the cut is perfectly useable. Just a little blowout on the waste side and bottom. This isn't a €7000-20000 panel saw with dedicated prescoring blade. So all in all I'm happy with the results and the saw is still going strong from 2012. Even after a handful of drops from the table. If youre in the market for a quality tracksaw, and appreciate it for what it is, it's hard to beat the Mafell. But you are right next time I need to think more about all the variables. Thanks for watching the video. Hope it was in some way helpful for you

For the video it shows how accurate and clean the cut is.

I use a festool table saw which is sort of similar. They are intended to be light weight table saws that you can take on site. For some applications you could use it for cross cutting instead of a mitre saw but if you are only doing cross cuts there would be no point in using that saw. Now if using for flooring as in ripping floorboards in in half it could be useful. It is down to you the user how you intend to use such tools and if there is extra benefit that you could see then go for it. Are you intending that it would be used for cross cuts or mitre cuts?

@@bighands69 I am an inventor as well as a career carpenter/cabinetmaker. Years ago, Mafell took interest in my first innovation, then known as the "Joiner's Edge" Modular Fence and Table Extension System. They provided me with their "Erika" pull-push saw and also a little 12" over-under combo planer-jointer that they named "Paul." My system could make Paul's tables as long as 10' with perfect automatic alignment, regardless of depth of cut. (I still sell components casually after all these years from my carpentry business website at www.michaelschuler.com/Tech. ) I really liked the pull-push saw, but as a pro finish carpenter, I didn't see how the saw could actually replace my compound miter saw, due to the problem of providing properly aligned extended work support for work pieces that must be supported at ever-changing positions for quickly changing angular cuts. Recently, I started thinking about the pull-push saws again, primarily just to further cut down the number of weapons I need to drag on and off the worksite every day. In the end I developed another novel support system that I think will make the Mafell or any other pull-push saw a reasonable replacement for a miter saw. The design is novel and slick enough that I have protoyped a serious version and will soon go so far as to file US patent on it. So my questions on this thread and elsewhere have been aimed at getting a reality check on what the market for such an accessory might be. What I should do next and which company I approach will hopefully become more clear after I learn more from and about people who use these machines. From what I have gathered so far, the saws appeal to both professional craftsmen and serious amateurs. Hopefully there will be interest from both groups in an accessory that can truly turn these pull'push saws into 2-in-1 machines. Regardless whether I've come up with something that will have a significant market, I'm more than pleased enough with its efficiency and accuracy to follow through and buy a pill-push saw to lighten my daily carry. (The older I become, the heavier my gear seems to get. Thank7js for your response. (My latest little product is a level survey gauge for those of us who are called upon to make clean and true installations in older structures where nothing is level or plumb. You can check it out at www.howfarout.com)

@@michael.schuler Any more development on your support system for angle cutting? I'm also interested in not having to bring a large mitre saw and rip saw to jobs

Yes, it is. If you can't find it locally, both Amazon and Ebay carries it.

that's bs - simply make a cut with this Mafell and have a close look at the cut - you can clearly see the 0.1mm offset.

Welsh Rabbit aye it’s not but they are not portable jobsite tablesaws though.

It’s a Wehrmacht Erika Incredible saw though

magicmaui77 I agree mine does the same thing, does yours my angle indicator arrow is off too & I’ve tried to re-adjust it !