Just wondering. How did you manage to properly lap the valves in with the valve stems being too long and bottoming out. Seems like the valve wouldn’t close all the way for lapping.
A great trick for getting the 2 piece keepers installed is to put a little dab of grease on the inside of each half. Then you can install them and the grease will hold them onto the valve stem while you cut the zip ties or release the spring compressor.
Great video. Few tips Put the zipties on all but the outer rungs of the springs. Should still compress enough but will be removable with ease after cut. I don't recommend using pliers on the springs themselves as they are coated. If the spring starts to rust it will weaken.
The zip tie trick is a great idea in the video. 👍You should try putting the valve stem cap back on with the engine upside down. Maybe it would be easier to get it back on.
Thanks for this information. I would never have thought about using zip ties to keep the springs compressed. I have a Briggs and Stratton Quattro lawnmower engine with bad kickback. The flywheel key is fine and I have been told it may be the valves need adjusting, so now I know how to do it. This is really a big help mate. Cheers.👍
I have 'tight valves', gonna rent or borrow a compressor. Glad I saw this video, we get trained & it's hard to think out of the box. (Zip ties, WD 40 & duct tape also hay wire (*L*) Matt, I'm sure a lot of people are helped by your videos than are commented. Be Blest
you all prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost my password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Sterling Ronnie I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Nice info. Thumbs up. My dad used to use a bench sander after marking the flat with a black sharpie. This, of course would guide you if you were removing material in some way as balanced. I use the same method when sharpening mower blades.
gr8 vid I have a simular problem and symptoms is when engine is hot it will not stay running or is difficult to start untill mower cools off on a lawnmower. I will not be using a grinder. I will be using a file. its is also a flat head but on a lawnmower
Yes, those are all ways to tighten the clearance. The best way would be to recut the valve seats so they sit deeper in the head. And seal better at the same time.
I did this same thing yesterday, wish I'd seen your video. I used tiny wire, but the wire was hard to get out of the sprung springs. Wish I'd used the zip ties. Still it worked. Thanks
I have an engine that blows air out of the carburetor so i think i need to do a valve job i have done everything and it stil wont run so i hope this helps thank you for the info
@@MattsShop I'll be sure to check mine. First I need to drain the oil. I wish there was a way to grind down the valves without removal. I think a dremel tool will do the trick.
In my mind, I am assuming that with an engine that old it has possibly been rebuilt and the valves have been cut and lapped or he may have done so. I know that if I were to take the engine down to that point that's what I would do.....but that's me. You would be surprised the difference it can make.
Good idea on using the zip ties, but the hardest part is putting the keepers on the exhaust valve and you skipped over that in favor of showing the easy reassembly of the intake valve keeper
I'd be sure to check the owners manual for the Flathead engine because mine specifically says to check the valve clearance with springs and retainers fully installed. If your flathead engine is old enough the owners manual will have this basic information without needing the shop manual. I got my owners manual as a scanned PDF from Briggs and Stratton for free after contacting them with my engine numbers.
Just push down on the valve. They should be fully seated. No reason to put the springs and keepers back on just to check. This isn't a 1000hp big block V8. It's a small engine.
Good video...I prefer the valve compressor myself...did you lap the seats before reassembling?...could also use the link for a new gasket if you have that...thanks again....Mark
Matt. I have. Old 4hp Briggs that the intake valve will not open..The tappet for the intake does not come up nearly as far as the exhaust valve.It just kisses the valve stem barely. Only thing Icould think is the tappet or love on cam is damaged..Any thoughts?
Tappet actually broke at the base I discovered. Took sump cover off. Lobe has some nicks in it. Never had one of break before. This was a new to me motor. Explains why it was sitting for years.
Attention! The piston whole side is 45 degre. The 1/4 inch of the top piston TDM is not correctly measurement from the top flash engine frame. Maybe, the piston top must be measurement exactly from the flush engine frame. There is some error in measurement for the 1/4 inch before to begin the gap valve measurement. For 0.006 and 0.008 inch valve gaps adjustement the +/- inch are very important dimension/error.
Great video, thanks. My engine has too much gap, how do you make the valve stems longer? Would lapping them gain enough to be worth while? There is .020 gap on both valves.
In order to remove that much material you would have to recut the valve seats (expensive). To add material you could replace the valves, and/or replace the valve push rods in the bottom end. That would get you valve stems that are not worn out. They'd be longer. Just lapping the valves won't remove that much metal. Are you sure you are reading the spec/feeler gauges right?
My local small engine shop expert (shop no longer open) says the cam lobes are worn. I agree, there are streaks along the lobe tops. Taking a chance on another expensive camshaft may not be worthwhile as another engine should not cost much more. Thanks for your reply. Stan
@@johnsomerset1510 I was able to squeeze out some extra length with a blacksmith technique. Laying the end of the rod on an anvil and pounding the sides, stretched the shaft just enough to make it work. Would have been easier to heat the rod but I did not want to mess with the temper in the steel. There was a possibility of shattering the rod, but it worked.
@@rf8driver Thanks for that. But because of the risk of damaging the smooth surface of the stem, or bending or splitting the stem to get the extra length I need, I think I will either make up some cup-shaped shims, or disc shaped shims and retain them in place by slipping over short brass tubing to keep them on top of the push rods/cam follower stems.
I like to know how much I need to remove from the valves. If a .002 fits and you're shooting for .008 I know i need to remove .006, that way I can sneak up on it.
Ignore my info before. This set up is for BRIGGS and STRATTON engine only, isn't? For TECUMSEH engine is not this set up w/piston at 1/4" down. The 0.006" and 0.010" are the acceptable set up for the valve gap.
I know what you're talking about. It was mentioned in some Briggs and Stratton service manuals. To set the piston to TDC then 1/4" down. They caused a lot of confusion. Who knows what engines you are supposed to do that on at this point??
Me párese que el video es bueno pero seria mejor saber el trabajo que realizaste al soltar las amarras de la válvula de escape por que realmente no es sencillo meter los seguros cuando no tienes la herramienta adecuada ya que los seguros saltan si no están en realmente asegurados. pero es bueno saludos
im see a better solotion too press the valvespring together , im must remove valves of my engine because the cleranse of inlet valve vas too smal , better to do the both ways a cleaning and grind the valve and grind both until the valve seat
I can't figure out what type of engine is on my go-kart it has no markings so how would I know how to adjust valves when I don't know what type of engine it is
Ok, sooo.... on compression stroke when the piston is moving upward...BOTH VALVES SHOULD BE CLOSED.. no leakage past the intake or exhaust valves... I understand this principle. ON my small 5 hp Briggs, THE EXHAUST valve is closed, the the INTAKE HAS LEAKAGE uptown 3/4 compression stroke. IN OTHER WORDS, there is blow-back through the intake port until the piston on compression stroke is 3/4 travel. VALVE clearance at recommended positioning is .008 intake. QUESTION: WHAT'S THE PROBLEM
Somebody on here told me there is a decompression bump on the cam of some of these engines. It causes the exhaust valve to hang open a little bit. That's why the manual says set the valve clearance at 1/4" past TDC (piston 1/4" down from the top of the head after TDC). Don't know if it's true, but makes sense to me. Not sure if this info helps you, but maybe?
@@MattsShop I never heard of this...but I have only ripped apart 1/2 doz briggs engs. It makes sense alright. BUT, IT IS THE INTAKE VALVE which on compression stroke there is leakage. I will tear the eng down further an examine. Like I said...ALL my understanding of 4 stroke engines...ALL ... BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED on compression stroke.......hmmmm
@@Mooseracks it's the easy spin feature on all briggs like this. It opens the intake valve ever so slightly during the compression stroke to prevent kickback during pull starting. Hope this explains enuff
I just noticed one thing...I've watched a ahitload of videos on how to get the timing right on my 10hp tecumseh hm100 motor and not one video shows the guy actually starting the motor when he's done!!!!!..its just a fuckin hoax is why!!!!!!!!!
LOL I think I did forget to show it running. It ran fine for a while, then I swapped it out for a Harbor Freight motor. I got tired of the carburetor leaking becase it was made wrong. Not a hoax!!!!
This valve system must the must Been stupid, whay not use a shim betvin the pusher and valve to replement Cant belive there Are controll of the clearanse with grinding
@@cravenmoorehead5636 the factory here must be, the camaxle been never biggger of lift after Long time use, remember, and the valve been never longer eather.. So the valve not closed to the valve Seat.
I just put needle nose pliers under the spring then push up and push the keepers right on
zip ties are great for beginners 😎
Lol true. I don't use em much.
Just wondering. How did you manage to properly lap the valves in with the valve stems being too long and bottoming out. Seems like the valve wouldn’t close all the way for lapping.
Were you able to remove the pushrods to get the valves to seat during lapping?
I rotated the engine until the pushrods were down so the valves sat in their seats.
I say if you gotta go back and forth to the grinder to get it right then that's what you got to do you definitely don't want to rush
I like the zip ties 😎😎😎😎
I like the shades 😎
A great trick for getting the 2 piece keepers installed is to put a little dab of grease on the inside of each half. Then you can install them and the grease will hold them onto the valve stem while you cut the zip ties or release the spring compressor.
Great video.
Few tips
Put the zipties on all but the outer rungs of the springs. Should still compress enough but will be removable with ease after cut.
I don't recommend using pliers on the springs themselves as they are coated. If the spring starts to rust it will weaken.
Good idea to put them on the outer rings.
Also, position the zipties so that the rachet part is near the middle of the compressed spring, not tear the top or bottom.
The zip tie trick is a great idea in the video. 👍You should try putting the valve stem cap back on with the engine upside down. Maybe it would be easier to get it back on.
The zip tie trick is worth the video!
Yea, I know. I made a separate video just for that trick.
Thanks for this information. I would never have thought about using zip ties to keep the springs compressed.
I have a Briggs and Stratton Quattro lawnmower engine with bad kickback. The flywheel key is fine and I have been told it may be the valves need adjusting, so now I know how to do it.
This is really a big help mate. Cheers.👍
You are welcome! Yea, it's a great tip.
I have 'tight valves', gonna rent or borrow a compressor. Glad I saw this video,
we get trained & it's hard to think out of the box.
(Zip ties, WD 40 & duct tape also hay wire (*L*) Matt, I'm sure a lot of people
are helped by your videos than are commented. Be Blest
you all prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost my password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Arlo Jon instablaster =)
@Sterling Ronnie I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Nice info. Thumbs up. My dad used to use a bench sander after marking the flat with a black sharpie. This, of course would guide you if you were removing material in some way as balanced. I use the same method when sharpening mower blades.
Neat low cost spring compressor. On these engines you really don't need one to get the keepers off but you do to get them back on without a struggle.
Why not use a hand file instead of the powered grinder?
It's too slow.
gr8 vid I have a simular problem and symptoms is when engine is hot it will not stay running or is difficult to start untill mower cools off on a lawnmower.
I will not be using a grinder. I will be using a file. its is also a flat head but on a lawnmower
great video- would have loved to see the valve seat thing- but great video- extremely clear and great camera work
I have another video on the valve seats.
What if you have excessive clearance? How do you tighten it up? New valves, weld up valve, new pushrod?
Yes, those are all ways to tighten the clearance. The best way would be to recut the valve seats so they sit deeper in the head. And seal better at the same time.
I did this same thing yesterday, wish I'd seen your video. I used tiny wire, but the wire was hard to get out of the sprung springs. Wish I'd used the zip ties. Still it worked. Thanks
Zip ties work the best!
I have an engine that blows air out of the carburetor so i think i need to do a valve job i have done everything and it stil wont run so i hope this helps thank you for the info
Did it help @Siebe_h
What about turning the engine upside down on the bench to keep the valves pressed up, while you work on getting the keepers back on the valves?
I LEARNED SOMETHING NEW ABOUT THE ZIP TIES
good video
Thanks!
I'm considering either replacing or rebuilding my B&S 10hp engine Do you have a Q&A I need an answer to to non related issue
Great video! I'm surprised you have negative clearance. Does this mean the valve seats have worn faster than the push rods?
Yes, the valve seats get pretty beat up.
@@MattsShop I'll be sure to check mine. First I need to drain the oil. I wish there was a way to grind down the valves without removal. I think a dremel tool will do the trick.
@@dpk9993 why drain the oil?
In my mind, I am assuming that with an engine that old it has possibly been rebuilt and the valves have been cut and lapped or he may have done so. I know that if I were to take the engine down to that point that's what I would do.....but that's me. You would be surprised the difference it can make.
@@dpk9993 don't do that, grit and shavings will get into the engine, not hard to remove and replace them
Good video buddy, i needed it today and the engine now runs excellent. Thanks!
No problem 👍
Good idea on using the zip ties, but the hardest part is putting the keepers on the exhaust valve and you skipped over that in favor of showing the easy reassembly of the intake valve keeper
I'd be sure to check the owners manual for the Flathead engine because mine specifically says to check the valve clearance with springs and retainers fully installed. If your flathead engine is old enough the owners manual will have this basic information without needing the shop manual. I got my owners manual as a scanned PDF from Briggs and Stratton for free after contacting them with my engine numbers.
I have the manuals in the description. I never saw that mentioned in the manual. I'll have to check it again.
YES J M
Just push down on the valve. They should be fully seated. No reason to put the springs and keepers back on just to check. This isn't a 1000hp big block V8. It's a small engine.
Good video...I prefer the valve compressor myself...did you lap the seats before reassembling?...could also use the link for a new gasket if you have that...thanks again....Mark
Matt. I have. Old 4hp Briggs that the intake valve will not open..The tappet for the intake does not come up nearly as far as the exhaust valve.It just kisses the valve stem barely. Only thing Icould think is the tappet or love on cam is damaged..Any thoughts?
You have lost height somewhere due to excessive metal wear. It's either a worn cam lobe, push rod, or valve stem.
Tappet actually broke at the base I discovered. Took sump cover off. Lobe has some nicks in it. Never had one of break before. This was a new to me motor. Explains why it was sitting for years.
Attention! The piston whole side is 45 degre. The 1/4 inch of the top piston TDM is not correctly measurement from the top flash engine frame. Maybe, the piston top must be measurement exactly from the flush engine frame. There is some error in measurement for the 1/4 inch before to begin the gap valve measurement. For 0.006 and 0.008 inch valve gaps adjustement the +/- inch are very important dimension/error.
Great video, thanks. My engine has too much gap, how do you make the valve stems longer? Would lapping them gain enough to be worth while? There is .020 gap on both valves.
In order to remove that much material you would have to recut the valve seats (expensive). To add material you could replace the valves, and/or replace the valve push rods in the bottom end. That would get you valve stems that are not worn out. They'd be longer.
Just lapping the valves won't remove that much metal. Are you sure you are reading the spec/feeler gauges right?
My local small engine shop expert (shop no longer open) says the cam lobes are worn. I agree, there are streaks along the lobe tops. Taking a chance on another expensive camshaft may not be worthwhile as another engine should not cost much more. Thanks for your reply. Stan
I have same problem with big gaps and NO ONE on TH-cam seems to know how to correct the problem! Eg somehow add a shim or what?
@@johnsomerset1510 I was able to squeeze out some extra length with a blacksmith technique.
Laying the end of the rod on an anvil and pounding the sides, stretched the shaft just enough to make it work.
Would have been easier to heat the rod but I did not want to mess with the temper in the steel.
There was a possibility of shattering the rod, but it worked.
@@rf8driver Thanks for that. But because of the risk of damaging the smooth surface of the stem, or bending or splitting the stem to get the extra length I need, I think I will either make up some cup-shaped shims, or disc shaped shims and retain them in place by slipping over short brass tubing to keep them on top of the push rods/cam follower stems.
Brilliant,, great video info for us learning to work on our old engines,,thx
What stroke is the engine on when adjusting valves?
TDC Compression stroke always
There is no way to do this without taking the head off?
I like to know how much I need to remove from the valves. If a .002 fits and you're shooting for .008 I know i need to remove .006, that way I can sneak up on it.
Exactly, you don't want to take off too much.
Ignore my info before. This set up is for BRIGGS and STRATTON engine only, isn't? For TECUMSEH engine is not this set up w/piston at 1/4" down. The 0.006" and 0.010" are the acceptable set up for the valve gap.
I know what you're talking about. It was mentioned in some Briggs and Stratton service manuals. To set the piston to TDC then 1/4" down. They caused a lot of confusion. Who knows what engines you are supposed to do that on at this point??
What's the symptom of having no valve clearance?
Hard starting or not running properly are two symptoms.
Mine had a backfire. After adjusting it ran fine.
Me párese que el video es bueno pero seria mejor saber el trabajo que realizaste al soltar las amarras de la válvula de escape por que realmente no es sencillo meter los seguros cuando no tienes la herramienta adecuada ya que los seguros saltan si no están en realmente asegurados. pero es bueno saludos
6000 is 0,15 mm. But 11000 ? As I understand it's almost nothing. Do you mean 1100 ? The exhaust is a little bit bigger gap, right ?
get the little spring compressor, makes it simple.
Do you know where I can get a push valve? Delivered In Holland? My machine is a model 289707 Type 0154- 01 Code 9411224D
What motor is this??..is it the Tecumseh 10hp hm100??
Briggs and Stratton I/C 8 HP 1990's.
Great job Matt!
The 1/4” is to be past the decompression lever on cam.
I didn't know there was one. These engines are so simple.Good to know.
Helps to start the engine
im see a better solotion too press the valvespring together , im must remove valves of my engine because the cleranse of inlet valve vas too smal , better to do the both ways a cleaning and grind the valve and grind both until the valve seat
I can't figure out what type of engine is on my go-kart it has no markings so how would I know how to adjust valves when I don't know what type of engine it is
are them valve springs different lengths ??
No
Very informative. Thanks
Blew my mind!
.250 past TDC to get past the compression release mechanism.
Thanks for the good info
Ok, sooo.... on compression stroke when the piston is moving upward...BOTH VALVES SHOULD BE CLOSED.. no leakage past the intake or exhaust valves... I understand this principle. ON my small 5 hp Briggs, THE EXHAUST valve is closed, the the INTAKE HAS LEAKAGE uptown 3/4 compression stroke. IN OTHER WORDS, there is blow-back through the intake port until the piston on compression stroke is 3/4 travel. VALVE clearance at recommended positioning is .008 intake. QUESTION: WHAT'S THE PROBLEM
Somebody on here told me there is a decompression bump on the cam of some of these engines. It causes the exhaust valve to hang open a little bit. That's why the manual says set the valve clearance at 1/4" past TDC (piston 1/4" down from the top of the head after TDC).
Don't know if it's true, but makes sense to me. Not sure if this info helps you, but maybe?
@@MattsShop I never heard of this...but I have only ripped apart 1/2 doz briggs engs. It makes sense alright. BUT, IT IS THE INTAKE VALVE which on compression stroke there is leakage. I will tear the eng down further an examine. Like I said...ALL my understanding of 4 stroke engines...ALL ... BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED on compression stroke.......hmmmm
@@Mooseracks it's the easy spin feature on all briggs like this. It opens the intake valve ever so slightly during the compression stroke to prevent kickback during pull starting. Hope this explains enuff
great video man
AllWAYS grind the value stem on every engine 😊
I love these how NOT to grind down L head valves
Then how do you do it??
You have to go with a file and finish with a stone
Probably more accurate.
safer to use a file by hand than a bench grinder
Make a rest to place the valve in
Briggs valve spring tool is 18 bucks and easier... Just sayin
Yea, a lot of people don't work on these things enough to even bother.
I just noticed one thing...I've watched a ahitload of videos on how to get the timing right on my 10hp tecumseh hm100 motor and not one video shows the guy actually starting the motor when he's done!!!!!..its just a fuckin hoax is why!!!!!!!!!
LOL I think I did forget to show it running. It ran fine for a while, then I swapped it out for a Harbor Freight motor. I got tired of the carburetor leaking becase it was made wrong. Not a hoax!!!!
@@MattsShop made wrong how? Never heard of this.
Wish me luck.
Good luck!
You shouldn't grind on the side of a grinding wheel
I saw that too, but he's got a light touch.
Shortening valves? Did they grow? LOL
This is so wrong.
The valves get worn
@@jameshallahan4376 They get worn long?
@@FixNewsPlease so the valve seats further into hole - the rod doesn’t get longer
This valve system must the must Been stupid, whay not use a shim betvin the pusher and valve to replement
Cant belive there Are controll of the clearanse with grinding
I'd love to see your engines built at your factory. By your company. Hmmm
@@cravenmoorehead5636 the factory here must be, the camaxle been never biggger of lift after Long time use, remember, and the valve been never longer eather.. So the valve not closed to the valve Seat.
Yes, it's stupid that's how these engines were made.
The
What???
You call it super easy trick..? Oh come on .. ask for it on TH-cam and you'll get that your trick is one of the most stupidest trick ever presented..
Tecumseh are 7 intake 11 exhaust briggs are abouit 5 and 10, do yourself a favor and get a belt sander for those valves it makes life much easier