well i saw one guy took a piece of gas tubing or a vacuum hose that fits over the other side of the valve on the stem used a cordless drill on med or lower speed pulled gently on the drill went one way but I supposed you could do one way for a min and then the other way and also you could duplicate the compound with water just a few thoughts I have a 4 cylinder Subaru with 16 small valves and was think about with process to use and then you could even visually see the results better with Permatex Prussian Blue, which is bluing compound & is a non drying marking compound used check the contact surface of a valve face to valve seat when working on a cylinder head
you didn't say exactly how long you lapped the valve, is it 2 minutes or 20 minutes, just a guideline would help. This is my second time tearing it all apart again because it still leaks air out the exh valve.
Honestly, it would have been better to get new valves and cut new valve seats then lap them in. It's too much work for old equipment. This worked pretty well to get it running. I lapped the valves until they were mated together well. Could take 2mins could take 20mins.
In your video, your tool got valve griding compound greese on it and it began slipping all over the place. You couldn't keep the tool center on the valve, because the tool lost contact often. That also means you can't apply lots of pressure on the head of the valve, where with my set-up, my connection to the valve, never moves off center, no matter how hard you apply a downward pressure. Like I said, I can apply 20 lbs of downward pressure using my method, and again, it never moves off the center of the valve during the whole lapping job ... start to finish. I'll make a video later down the road and show you the right way (and make a cheap homemade tool, costs less than $5 to make), to do a fast complete lapping job perfectly with next to no effort at all. Watch for it in the coming future. Once you try it out, you'll throw away those foolish factory made lapping tools shown in the video here.
A better lapping tool is a piece of 1/2 inch dia. wooden dowel wood, and a small supply of double-sided sticky foam (normally used for hanging pictures to the wall. Just cut out a small piece of double-sided sticky foam about the size dia. of the valve head. Press the piece of dowel end against the valve with the foam attached to the head of the valve before adding the valve compound. Insert the valve, and start lapping. Not only can you apply far more dowdnward pressure while lapping, but the dowel wood also doesn't move off center of the valve while lapping. It stays center at all times. That's the best way to lap valves properly and quickly. Those valve lapping tools are garbage in my book. You'll be surprised on how fast you can lap valves in the manner I just explained, and with so much little effort as well. What would take you 5 to 10 mins of lapping with a store-bought lap tool, I can do in a matter of a couple of minutes withe ease, and be done long before the store bough lap tool is even close to being finished. In used this method for sandpaper lapping as well, and it worked both fast and great. I'll never use a store-bought lapping tool ever again doing valves. My method really grabs the valve needing lapping. Double sided foam tape is easy to remove when done, but those sticky sides provide lots of grip to nthe valve needing lapping. Lots of grip, and dowel stays center while lapping.
I dislike using those lapping tools. I came up with a far better way of lapping valves. Most time the lapping tools you are using keep losing contact with the valve and slid off. You can't use mkuch pressure to get the valve grit to do a proper cutting. My way with my home made lapping tool works a whole lot better and quicker. I can apply as much as 5 to 20 lbs. of pressure on the valve being lapped. With the tools you use, your lucky if you can apply 2 to 5 lbs of pressure on the valve. I might add, my tool doesn't come off the valve while doing a lapping job. It stays right dead center of the valve all through the whole lapping job. Those bought lapping tools are not worth the money paid for them. I threw mine away, because they were totally useless and did a poor job from start to finish. With my tool that I put together, I can have a lap job done in 1/8th the time it takes using the lap tools your using. I have had tiny pin-point small nicks in the seat walls on some valve seats, and was able to remove them in 5 mins. or less, just using only valve compound. Once I attach my valve spinning stick to a valve, it makes good solid contact, and never moves off dead center, and never loses a solid grip on the valve throughout the whole lapping job. Maybe someday soon I'll share my secret with you on how to do a lapping job in record time, and end up with a perfect job every time without the lapping stick going all over the place while lapping.
Good! Follow up on work in progress ! Keep it up!
you said you polished it after the permatex. What and how did you do that?
Polishing compound same method
@@MattsShop Thanks. any brand you prefer?
Good job
Thanks
Good video but, would have been better if you let us HEAR the final grounding you did since you mentioned it would sound different. Thumbs up!
I know. It's hard to tell on camera.
well i saw one guy took a piece of gas tubing or a vacuum hose that fits over the other side of the valve on the stem used a cordless drill on med or lower speed pulled gently on the drill went one way but I supposed you could do one way for a min and then the other way and also you could duplicate the compound with water just a few thoughts I have a 4 cylinder Subaru with 16 small valves and was think about with process to use and then you could even visually see the results better with Permatex Prussian Blue, which is bluing compound & is a non drying marking compound used check the contact surface of a valve face to valve seat when working on a cylinder head
The plastic tube on the drill trick is good to know.
What was the machine you were working on these came off of?
It was a 1994ish Briggs and Stratton 7HP I/C
you didn't say exactly how long you lapped the valve, is it 2 minutes or 20 minutes, just a guideline would help.
This is my second time tearing it all apart again because it still leaks air out the exh valve.
Honestly, it would have been better to get new valves and cut new valve seats then lap them in. It's too much work for old equipment. This worked pretty well to get it running. I lapped the valves until they were mated together well. Could take 2mins could take 20mins.
How you can tell which one is intake, are they different dimeter.
yes
It would have been interesting if you had checked your clearances before and after
The length can be reduced. Before and after pictures and video of valves. Video of valves grinding process.
Very job
Sorry very good job
Thx
Good information thanks 👍👍👍
Valve làp tools company name address
That port and polish was worth about 10hp 😛
Haha yea, You should see what I did on my ATV.
In your video, your tool got valve griding compound greese on it and it began slipping all over the place. You couldn't keep the tool center on the valve, because the tool lost contact often. That also means you can't apply lots of pressure on the head of the valve, where with my set-up, my connection to the valve, never moves off center, no matter how hard you apply a downward pressure. Like I said, I can apply 20 lbs of downward pressure using my method, and again, it never moves off the center of the valve during the whole lapping job ... start to finish. I'll make a video later down the road and show you the right way (and make a cheap homemade tool, costs less than $5 to make), to do a fast complete lapping job perfectly with next to no effort at all. Watch for it in the coming future. Once you try it out, you'll throw away those foolish factory made lapping tools shown in the video here.
Well what is it? I'm having issues
I overlapped I think and never got a perfect seal with 62# springs I
A better lapping tool is a piece of 1/2 inch dia. wooden dowel wood, and a small supply of double-sided sticky foam (normally used for hanging pictures to the wall. Just cut out a small piece of double-sided sticky foam about the size dia. of the valve head. Press the piece of dowel end against the valve with the foam attached to the head of the valve before adding the valve compound. Insert the valve, and start lapping. Not only can you apply far more dowdnward pressure while lapping, but the dowel wood also doesn't move off center of the valve while lapping. It stays center at all times. That's the best way to lap valves properly and quickly. Those valve lapping tools are garbage in my book. You'll be surprised on how fast you can lap valves in the manner I just explained, and with so much little effort as well. What would take you 5 to 10 mins of lapping with a store-bought lap tool, I can do in a matter of a couple of minutes withe ease, and be done long before the store bough lap tool is even close to being finished. In used this method for sandpaper lapping as well, and it worked both fast and great. I'll never use a store-bought lapping tool ever again doing valves. My method really grabs the valve needing lapping. Double sided foam tape is easy to remove when done, but those sticky sides provide lots of grip to nthe valve needing lapping. Lots of grip, and dowel stays center while lapping.
@@waynedavies3185 your a regular Eli Whitney
@@waynedavies3185 Great idea, thanks for sharing your setup greatly appreciated! 🙂
I dislike using those lapping tools. I came up with a far better way of lapping valves. Most time the lapping tools you are using keep losing contact with the valve and slid off. You can't use mkuch pressure to get the valve grit to do a proper cutting. My way with my home made lapping tool works a whole lot better and quicker. I can apply as much as 5 to 20 lbs. of pressure on the valve being lapped. With the tools you use, your lucky if you can apply 2 to 5 lbs of pressure on the valve. I might add, my tool doesn't come off the valve while doing a lapping job. It stays right dead center of the valve all through the whole lapping job. Those bought lapping tools are not worth the money paid for them. I threw mine away, because they were totally useless and did a poor job from start to finish. With my tool that I put together, I can have a lap job done in 1/8th the time it takes using the lap tools your using. I have had tiny pin-point small nicks in the seat walls on some valve seats, and was able to remove them in 5 mins. or less, just using only valve compound. Once I attach my valve spinning stick to a valve, it makes good solid contact, and never moves off dead center, and never loses a solid grip on the valve throughout the whole lapping job. Maybe someday soon I'll share my secret with you on how to do a lapping job in record time, and end up with a perfect job every time without the lapping stick going all over the place while lapping.
Man the anticipation is just killing me
Must be going to patent this idea?????????
Can you please share either in a video or describe how it works and its made?
Been waiting a year and this fella is still holding the secret like it's the code to nukes.😂
This is really a rude comment. Poor man