3d Printer Tips Print Not Sticking
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- One of the most common problems users of 3d printers experience is the failure of objects to stick to the print bed. This video explores how to diagnose and solve 3d print problem caused by a failure of print bed adhesion.
Table of Content
00:00 Introduction
04:12 Proper Nozzle Height
07:52 Diagnosing Print Failures
11:33 Wrap Up
Two products available from MatterHackers were described in this video. Below are affiliate links that help the channel at no additional cost to you:
LayerLock PEI Print Sheets
www.matterhackers.com/store/c...
MagiGoo Print Adhesive
www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
Let's continue to learn together. Irv
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You're the Mr. Rogers of 3d printing.
I was just thinking the same thing! lol
brand new to 3d printing and this has been such a massive help, thank you!
Thanx for making a video with a thorough explanation of basic problems, made with a smile!
Your explanation of the offset was exactly what I was looking for, thanks for making it so us shortbus people could understand.
My goal to explain concepts in a way that makes them approachable to regular people.
Thanks for your comment.
Short bus people. LMAO. I’ve never heard that term before and is brilliant.
Excellent video, exactly what I was looking for. thank you for explaining this so well.
Great explanation, your mention of the extruder clicking helped me determine that the be was too close on one side of my printer. I am subscribed now.
DrVax! You are the man! As always to the point and yes; cleaning the bed made all the difference. Thanks. Also thanks for the demo for the bed touching the nozzle demo.
You Sir, are a wonderful teacher. I enjoyed this video. It was informative, professional, far from boring, and you bring a great positive energy. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. You always bring something new to the table....
Sir, Thank you so much for this video! It helped me greatly.
Really helpful video! I changed filament recently and its temp for melting was a bit different and my prints were falling apart. I dont have auto levelling so i compensated by putting a z axis offset and that helped!
That's my first video, but I liked the way it's made and subscribed. Thanks.
Amazing lesson, thank you sir.
I've been 3D printing since 2013 and work in large scale research printing. I love your videos since it offers me a chance to circle back and revisit some basics! You explain them so nicely!
thanks.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech good to know! One I go to often is 3dprintingforum.us
Losers
Clicking noise is what I wondered where it was coming from along with bubbles. Now I know where to fix it. Thank you
Nice video as always. All my printers are equipped with spring steel sheets. If I am printing with PLA on a smooth PEI surface, I just clean it first with IPA. When printing with PLA on a powder coated sheet, I use a glue stick. With PETG I use glue stick on a smooth PEI surface and just clean with IPA on a power coated surface.
thanks for the help from a 4d printer noob, just got the ender 3 V2 neo
some of this info helped me to dial mine in
getting an incredible test print now
many thanks
Thank you, good info for a beginner
Glad it was helpful!
Filament no longer stuck to PEI-coated surface. Internet suggested cleaning PEI surface with acetone eventually ruins surface for filament stick. That's what I was doing and switched to glue stick to compensate. Doc, I love your videos!
wow this is the best video for 3d printer tips. thanks!
You're like a dentist, Dr Vax. I come here with a known problem, and you've patched it up! Thanks!
Very good explanation... Thanks
awesome video! keep up the great work.
Thank you, very helpful. liked and subscribed :)
For my ender 3, a pei bed solved all my issues. It has the surface quality of glass with the flexibility of the original bed that comes with the printer so you can still flex your prints off the bed easily. Have not had a single bed adhesion issue since I made the switch.
Plus it’s magnetic so you can ditch the clips, and in cura change the setting to an ender 3 pro and it will give you a slightly larger print surface now that the clips won’t be in the way 👍
Thank you soo much, im really new to this world, yesterday my printer was clicking and i was using the base creality bed, my noozle just destroys this bed, and today i've buyed new 4mm glass bed, it's soo much better, and thanks to your video i know how to level right my bed to not clicking and to not have fingers on it. Thank you
Good video, lot of good information. I like the Creality glass sheets, but I usually print on the plain glass side, it does not scratch as much. Clean and then use hairspray, the cheapest seems to be the best, a can will last me about a month using it on 4 printers for $2 per can.
Great tip!
Great video.
Great video thanks
Great, advise. I'll try it.
I use a mirror tile, works great if the leveling is just right and alcohol clean.
Thank you.
I'm new to the printing world. I have a ender 3 max neo. I installed a pei sheet and have struggled with adhesion.
I am struggling with bed adhesion. I have a level bed, with BL Touch for auto-levelling, the Z-offset is set correct to get a reasonable "squish" in the first layer, glass bed cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol. Tried bed temps from 45 to 60 (PLA) and even up to 90 with a PETG roll, still cant get the damn things to stick. Even tried glue stick.
I even went as far as getting my digital caliper out and measuring the height of the first layer just to check it was even.
Any ideas?
Cleaning the bed Question....
Recently I had a very small area of the bed contain an extremely thin layer of filament that really did not want to come clean from the bed. I tried water, saop and water, and alcohol with a heated bed. I had little luck and didn't want to scratch the bed with using the print knife/pallet (not sure what that thing is called of the top of my head). Anyway... What I ended up using was a dab of acetone. I had read about using acetone to dissolve PLA from clogged nozzles. So I gave it a whirl. It did an amazing job of cleaning the bed of excess filament. Assuming that you clean the acetone off after use, is there any reason I shouldn't use it to clean excess filament from the bed?
Dr.vax! , the other day my filament suddenly didnt wanna stick anymore to the buildplate but it just drags it around.
i have leveled the bed and cleaned the bed but nothing helps .
i have a Creality ender 5 pro with 210 degrees on the nozzle & 60 degrees on the bed. 100% fanspeed, i use a brim as a adhesion, and magnetic build plate,
Hiya Dr VAX! Love your channel! I have the opposite issue even cool the prints dont release. I need to use a razor blade to remove them. Do you have any suggestions/videos for this?
I also use a razor blade when prints stick too well, but I put mine in a paint scraper. You can try two things to get prints to release more easily. Increase the distance of the nozzle to the bed -- but if you increase it too much your prints will not stick. Try using a print adhesive like MagiGoo which will have the print hold when the nozzle is farther away so it will release better.
This is a great video. But how does he now this is correct?
I don't have a BL Touch, just a stock Ender 3 setup and my stock bed was really warped right out the box, so I went over to a local hardware store and got a glass bed cut. It's perfectly flat, but my favorite material, PETG, can rip chunks of glass out if you don't use a gluestick. For whatever reason, PETG doesn't seem to stick very well to my gluestick. Pieces seem to get dragged off as the nozzle moves away after printing small shapes like the base of tree supports, so I really have to squash the filament into the glass for it to stick properly. I'm thinking it has something to do with the print temperature not being high enough (on a stock ender 3 with a bowden setup, you shouldn't go too high) and maybe my flowrate needs to be higher on just the first layer. Using a brim instead of a skirt seems to help a little bit. It might also be worth trying out a "permanent gluestick" as Chep suggests.
Another thing to try is blue masking tape. It is tedious to apply but sticks well when used with a bed adhesive and will protect the glass.
Also it is more expensive but dimafix or magigoo are much better than glue stick.
I am very picky who I sub to as I am a marine youtuber myself but you seem to do this right I hope to learn from you
Thanks. I hope to return your trust.
The Creality textured glass beds, at least the early ones that came with the CR-6 SE, would have their special coating come off with IPA. Using plain soap and water works well for them. The formulation in ones manufactured more recently may not be affected the same. BTW, many glass cleaners have some isopropyl alcohol (or a similar type of substance) as one of the ingredients.
Important information. If anyone has a link to a website from Creality about cleaning their glass beds please add it here.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers.
Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech So this is the only thing I could find, with a comment from an Admin. forum.creality.com/topic/327/how-to-clean-glass-bed-cr6-se/28?fbclid=IwAR3ar9I0YF6kmO_M-8RzXqJVpfTG_6smvWTDdWCjGNGNFdlmNyiEPZcx-nk
I had no idea cleaning the bed could make such a big difference! I spent hours leveling the bed thinking that was the issue but now after cleaning it my prints are back to sticking so well that I can't get them off lol.
What do you clean the bed with?
@kamiGTR I found a video where he just mixed some water, IPA, and a small amount of dish soap. Figured I'd try it and it worked really well. I usually spray a small amount on where it's about to print and then wipe it around with a small cloth.
Found the video: th-cam.com/video/6f-wtc-uYZM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=l5S7UTWqw65V05V_
I went to the buildtak site and they have multiple options. Which one do you suggest?
During the first lockdown, I ran out of IPA and not wanting to get scalped by purchasing some more I went on to some forums to look for alternatives, I found a post where a guy was using a product called Windex window cleaning liquid, well I live in the UK and this branded product is not available but I did have some window cleaning liquid that I use for my car so I used that on a Creality Ultrabase type bed and I found out that filament would not stick to it at all.
I started off cleaning it with a handheld steam cleaner and found out the window cleaning product had soap in it which I took off without any problem, about a week or so later I was clearing up my garage and found a 2.5L container of IPA that had never been opened, the price label had the name of a local hardware store that closed down in 1991 so this IPA could be more than 30 years old but worked just fine
Hi Andrew, Windex is basically Windolene.
I had problems with adhesion early on and once I leveled the bed it got better. Once I shimmed the middle of the bed with two pieces of paper (about 4"x3"") in the very center of the bed. It not prints almost perfect in any location on the bed. Now I only level the bed every few prints to verify everything is perfect still.
I always had problems with the first layer not sticking to the bed, until I found out that I leveled the nozzle to bed distance totally wrong the whole time. I always started leveling the nozzle to bed distance from the 0 position(home position), which basically gave me the set layer hight plus the thickness of the paper(~0.4mm)🤦♂️
I now do it like this:
-Heat up nozzle and bed.
-Set the Z-hight to 0.2mm!
-Using a feeler gauge with 0.2mm to level the nozzle to bed distance with a tiny bit of friction on 5 points of the bed.
Giving me a perfect first layer every single time.
The most annoying thing with leveling is how the middle has too much of a gap while the rest is just fine. When you try to fix it, the middle would print properly, but everywhere else gets realy rough looking. Another one is how I do bed leveling tests and the squares look good, but the corner or edges of the squares are rough looking as the nozzle is too close in one spot, but just right a few centimeters away from that spot
Do you have a link to the circle test print you use
I could provide a link but it is so easy to make I recommend you just make it yourself. Just go into TinkerCAD and draw a circle. Make it .40 to 1mm in height. Then drag a circle "hole" over the the existing circle and group them. Then add any lettering you would like. TinkerCAD is really easy to use. Once you master TinkerCAD this should take you less than 5 minutes to model. Here is a TinkerCAD playlist:
th-cam.com/play/PLxa9m2nC6N90rs0ziWs9x2HY9OjPL3pSk.html
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers.
I have a Anycubic kobra go would a glue stick work
good explained! thanks a lot :) , does hair spray really helps like some people say ?
I like it on plain glass, spray a little cold and heat up the bed it will form a nice layer, if you get too much on you can try to clean the prints with water.
@@woodwaker1 i have the ender 3 Max and tried to print on the other side of the bed, the smooth one, and i could't be able to make it stick, but now i have on coated side again and with optimized brim settings i have it stick for good and with no warping, hopefully it stays so :D
@@kinanhloubi1935 try some glue or hairspray, and I think closer is better.
@@WillofNewZealand I agree, that it does build up. I remove the glass and wash in the sink with dish soap. For me that is the best way to clean them.
I have not used it but many people highly recommend it.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers.
Check it out. Irv
Thank you Doc.
My print stuck well last night but when I tried to remove it, the layers separated. What would cause that?
You need to increase your extrusion temperature.
was it silk PLA filament? I have to print that at 210c or I get layer delamination
To much cooling, possible underextrusion.
I use a cheap pva glue stick, it also takes off old adhesive with the aid of a scraper, then use ipa & water mix at 70% image to clean any residue.
I’ve been using the Kylon temporary mounting spray, cleans easily with IPA 91%
Interesting idea. Thanks for sharing. I am going to order some.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I have been having issues with stuff just not sticking in certain areas. I am BRAND NEW to printing so I am now assuming that I just need to wipe it down with some good old alcohol because I now assume the areas that aren't sticking are because my fingers have been all over that glass! I will try the Vodka in my freezer and see if that works! otherwise I'll step it up to some Ever Clear! Thanks again😆
Hello guys,i've got a small problem,i have a ender 3 neo and i wanted to make some articulated sharks,if i make just one in the middle of the printer it makes it perfect,but if i try to put 2 or 3 sharks on CURA and using sequence to make them one by one it does not make them good,especially the first layer it just does not kinda stick to the bed in the lateral parts of the printer .
MY SETTINGS ARE: 55 bed temperature and 200 nozzle,should i pump up the bed temperature to 60-65 to let it stick or do you guys have any advice?Thanks in advance!
Ihave an Ender 3 Neo, bed wont go any higher and when adjusting the Zoffset only goes down so far anmd wont get close to the bed. please help
Replaced the print surface. First couple of prints were perfect, now nothing will stick. I cleaned and re-leveled the bed 6 times and still nothing will stick. I've switched to different PLAs and still nothing. It's driving me nuts. It just starts clumping up around the nozzle (which also was replaced recently)
It is an End 3 with stock pad
❤
What is the thing that sticks to the glass bed ? (Biltack, I did not understand ((: )
I personally use elmer’s purple glue. I’ve never had corners come up when using it
Thanks for the recommendation.
I turn off extruder cooling fan and bed temp 110 extruder temp 225 for abs. Set first layer extrusion percentage to 150 percent.
I guess it is worth considering that the thickness of whatever you set the nozzle gap with also counts. Typically people use a piece of paper. I used some 80gsm copier paper, and when measured with a micrometer, that was 0.13mm thick.
I use a BLTouch, and the Z offset adjusted the standard way is -1.55mm. Ie it is saying that when the sensor triggers, the nozzle is 1.55mm above the bed. Except is isn't, it is 1.55mm above the bit of paper, so 1.68mm above the bed. Therefore, I guess I should really change the Z offset to -1.68mm. That way when my initial layer is set to 0.3mm, then it should be that and Cura should calculate flow correctly, at the moment is is calculating for a 0.3mm gap that is really 0.43mm.
Your math is probably correct. But I generally find setting the z offset via experimentation world.
@@MakeWithTech Yes, except that the slicer will be working under a misaprehension as to what gap really is, so will get the flow wrong. In my case, since the gap is about 40% too big, the flow will be quite a lot too low.
There is a first layer flow factor, but maybe it is adding a fudge on a fudge.
@@edcbabc Excellent point. I never thought about how the gap (z offset) will impact flow rates. Very interesting. May with your permission have to do a video about it.
@@MakeWithTech You bet! On a scale of 0 to 10 your videos rate as 11 at the least.
Is the nozzle supposed to touch the bed when z=0.00?! I can’t lower my bed anymore
I have a problem where when I print with my ender 3v2 the filament sticks to the nozzle instead of the bed barely any touches the bed and I end up with a big blob of filament
I recommend heading over to forum.makewithtech.com where thousands of my viewers help each other out.
I get the best results setting my gap/leveling what you had as "too close". I print almost all in ABS with some PetG and Nylon. The PetG is set to a much looser level than the others.
Ack, ABS/ASA work better when there is enough pressure. Those warping prone plastics are a bit picky. PETG likes a bit more room, otherwise it decides whether it doesn't want to stick or not come off at all after printing - but likely not inbetween.
I tried everything but my prints wouldn't stick anymore. Cleaning with alcohol didn't work. Gleu stick was to messy and tape didn't work.
I tryed one more time to get all the gleu residu off. And i used everything to be able to do that. In the end i used turpentine to get all of it off and now my bed is like new again.
Prints stick to the bed like a new printbed.
Ive vleaned my plate multiple times and leveled the machine and my prints are still not adhering properly and the lines are completely separated, idk what im doing wrong 😭
My printer now makes a streak, wether being on or off!! I have a video if you need it
I have an Ender 3 Pro with a magnetic bed. I clean the bed with acetone. No problems whatsoever with the print not sticking.
This has been killing me for the past few days. New ender 3 v2. Cleaned glass, levelled, installed a bltouch. Checked levelling again. I've managed to print one successful thing, but now ipa just isn't sticking. Cleaned glass again with soap and water, and then isopropyl alcohol. Still no luck. Will try elmers purple glue.
I had the same issue.
I made the firmware from template directly for bltouch. And I set the z-offset 0.01 by increment until it's perfect.
Now it works like a charm.
@@The4lexO Interesting. I used the Smith3D firmware. How did you make the firmware?
Try magigoo. Make sure you manually leveled print bed. Then adjust Z offset. Then insert G29 in slicer start code. Reslice and print.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks. I've ordered some so will see how it goes. My offset is -0.20. I've also inserted G29 into the code, and can see the printer tests 16 points before starting.
You shouldn't need any glue if so it's because it's not balanced.
You should tighten the belts as well.
It's only about configuration.
There is few examples on how to configure firmware from scratch.
I had so many issues with 3DSmith software that I did my own and now it works perfectly. I have a 4.2.2 MB also
I use a magnetic bed, I don't need to use adhesion. I set the temperature to 70 for the first 3 or so layers, and after that go down to 60
I've always used a very dilute (95% water) solution of PVA on my (Anycubic) glass bed. I put it on thick with a sponge and let the hot bed evaporate it to a thin, even layer.
PVA is pretty tough stuff once dry. How do you clean the bed?
@@imacmill It is water soluble, so water, gentle scraping with a metal spatula (mostly for stuck down skirts), and a sponge. When I said I put it on thick, I mean a lot of a very dilute solutiion. The PVA that is left once the water evaporates is very thin.
@@beauregardslim1914 Awesome, thanks. I think I'm gonna give it a try, going so far as to use 95% distilled water.
I have best results with glass buildplate, wiped clean with a bit of vinegar
You're my favorite "go-to" when I have problems printing with my Ender 3 v2. Since I've switched from PLA to PETG, I had adhesion problems on my glass bed, I did try the 3M blue tape but it didn't work, and the tape was a "PITA" to remove. I have since gone to "K stick" a cheaper version of your MagiGoo and it seems to do the job. Thanks for all your videos, I'm sure it's helps a lot of us out there.
Thanks for the recommendation of "K Stick". I will have to give it a try.
@@MakeWithTech You can find it on Amazon at: www.amazon.com/Organizer-Filament-Washable-Anti-Tilt-Non-Toxic/dp/B07QZ29CHW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3BTM6MF51LI8V&dchild=1&keywords=3d+bed+adhesive&qid=1613580110&sprefix=3d+bed+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-4
@@rfunk727 "Currently Unavailable" ☹️
I have both Glass and PEI. PEI does not work AT ALL on my ender 3 S1 pro. I can't get glue to stick to that crap lol (yes I keep it VERY clean) Glass on my ender 3 is amazing! Now my bambu P1S...PEI works amazing! Why this is....beyond me. I have leveled the ender 3 a million times with different methods and heights, different temps... gave up on it and moved to glass.... keep trying PEI every couple weeks cause I really want it to work. Results in peeling off and ruining another magnet pad.
I'm thinking of buying a 3D printer to make small items. I saw a youtube video on the
Ender 3 leaves me a rats nest and doesn't stick at all. I put glass down with no joy. I have just ordered PEI plate that I hope will help. The bed has been leveled several times.
I use glue stick. Lots of it.... Slow first 45min. Then ramp it up if possible. Monitor your prints.
I always have a problem remembering which way to turn the knobs, so I came up with this mantra "if it's loose, loosen the knob: if it's tight, tighten the knob". Let me clarify. If the filament is loose (ie not sticking), the gap is too large. In order to raise the bed, you have to loosen the spring. So "if filament is loose - loosen the knob".
If you need glue to make your prints stick you're doing it wrong.
There are some scenarios where glue stick is advised, like when printing PETG on PEI in ex.
For cleaning i use cheapest window cleaner i can find, i don't need alcohol for this.
You are absolutely correct. However many folks struggle with getting the bed leveled perfectly so using MagiGoo or a bed adhesive helps them out a bit.
I tried alcohol and it didnt work then switched to a spray can of break cleaner…. Solved the problem
I use Magigoo on a Glass Bed . Awesome 1st layer look
It's incredible how well it sticks. (Obviously Bed Leveling is important)
But if I try to get a print with a larger surface area off the print bed while itstill has temperature (60°C) bed I can lift the whole bed because of the good adhesion :)
Nice Video!
ok you show "bad sticks", what if it litterally does not stick
Try qidi tech flex plate and you will throw the other beds out of the window...just joking a bit😊 Qidi tech plate works so well that it can be tough to get the print of the plate. I can just talk for PLA...but i have also read other people talking about qidi techs bed and they are also surprised how well it sticks....not just PLA. If you have magnetic sheet and have a printer bed that should suit for a qidi flex plate then go for it. This is not a complete bed just the plate...they just sell these for their own machines. It's not so expensive but it can be hard to get one depending what type of qidi machine flex plate you aiming for. Qidi x-max is not easy just now
Be a rebel and print on a cold bed using Zillagrip glue. Save power and better.
I print to a PEI bed. And... you can have it... when they pry it... 50 years from now, from my cold, dead fingers. PEI is the best I have ever seen.
Just use "Gorilla Glue". You're welcome. 😁
DO NOT EVER CLEAN YOUR GLASS BED FROM CREALITY WITH ISOPROPYL!!! Based off experience and wrong advice from everyone, it removes a yellow coating that helps with bed adhesion. After cleaning with ISO on 12 print beds (BIG MISTAKE) all my prints started to fail and created a huge mess and broken printers. Now please don't tell people to clean glass bed with coating using ISO.
Interesting. I’ll look into this.
Ender 3 v2 glass SUCKS....
Clean it well and then use magicgoo or dynamax as bed adhesive and it will work well.
@@MakeWithTech I had 5 days of hell trying to get this. But I finally found a G-code from CHEP that would let me level the corners then I could hit the button and it would go to the next and so on. I got a good level finally and have been printing non-stop since. I have also did multiple upgrades since!! I then bought a second Ender 3v2 and the Anycubic Vyper which I love btw!! Thank you for all the help from your channel as I have learned so much these last few weeks and I'm just glad I didn't give up as this is now my new favorite hobby!!
@@Savage1776_ I'm going to give this a shot. I just bought two printers, a Biqu B1 and an Ender 3 V2. I have been going through hell trying to consistently get anything to stick to the freakin Enter 3 V2 bed. I know it has to do with proper leveling, but hell!!!! It seems like I am constantly turning the knobs to get it level. The Biqu B1, which I paid about $75.00 less for brand new, I have no problems with. Granted, the beds are not the same, the Biqu B1 bed is a magnetic spring steel. All I do is once the part cools a little, pop a corner and it releases. I clean it prior to every print with alcohol.
I assume your pro Vax.....
Fingers are bad... note to self: cut of hands. Noooooo just joking.