I've recently fitted my TC1000, max output states 15.5kw (I'm stock battery and Motor) I'm maybe missing something to get to 17kw? I haven't yet contacted Torp about this. Mind you, 15.5kw is over the top for my use⚡️✊️
@Etonnantnon hi, thanks for the message. I have done a lot of rides now with the Torp (no vids on TH-cam yet) The range is not really impacted in my type of riding, which is single track and slower, technical riding. It all depends on your settings, riding etc. I love the controller, and I'm still on stock battery and motor. I'll line up for the TM25 motor as soon as it's available for the Ultra Bee. Enjoy your riding mate✊️
If you do controller upgrades EBMX version 2 x9000 And battery EBMX version 4 81.3v 76ah make sure its stats are this some bike shops are selling version 3 @ version 4 price ( they look identical except v3 is 73ah.) With a version 4 battery you’ll be able to run 28kw continuously but be careful motor will get hot and new controller will cut the power.
Noticing the same. Although a cheater bike in technical terrain with 18/21 and gummies, its achilles heel are the big hill climbs. I struggle up some of the more difficult hill climbs that I used to go up with ease on my 2 strokes. Problem for me is lack of control… either the tire spins and momentum is lost or it grabs and starts to pull up. I’ll bet more power from battery & controller would help, but without a legitimate clutch, it’s just not as easy to feather that power. Add in some bumps, step ups, or little kickers on the hill climb, and it’s even harder to modulate that throttle accurately.
I disagree. I have more control with my UB compared to my KTM 300. I never felt that I would be better off if I had a clutch on my UB. The problem is caused by modifying the UB to 18/21. 18 inch with fatter tire perhaps gives better traction however at the expense of reducing the power delivered due to heavier and larger diameter tire. I bet you would climb that hill no worse with the stock 19” wheel.
@@bingeciren not even close. Getting up the easiest hills with the stock setup was atrocious. Gummy 18” tire is a game changer. Possibly I could learn to adapt my technique. But I’m not getting anywhere close to where I used to get on a few of the longest & steepest hill climbs compared to my previous KTM 300 or YZ 250. For me it’s partially lack of top end power, but mostly inability to maintain momentum. Once you slow down or hesitate just a little bit, it’s game over. My 19 factory UB setup, I could barely even get started on the more difficult hill climbs due to wheel spin. On climbs where the front end starts comes up, shifting weight more forward as I stand on the pegs on my dirt bikes helped and if I began to lose traction, a quick slip of the clutch allowed me to ease the power delivery without losing too much momentum. Problem with electric bikes is that when you’re on a hill climb that requires full commitment to even think about making, as soon as that wheel spins just a little and you have to cut the throttle, it’s done. Still for 95% of riding in Hawaii’s technical, muddy, rocky, terrain, I’m probably faster on my ultra bee. The crazier hill climbs, I just know I don’t have as much ability (probably part technique and part bike) as I used to with my 2T’s.
@@bingeciren In Hawaii we have a popular hill called “novice hill”. I was never great at hill climbs even when I rode my 2T’s multiple times a week. I would make the climb with my dirt bikes as long as conditions were good, too dry or too wet… I’d make it to the last steep step up. My ultra bee I tried a handful of times when I first got it with stock 19’s. Could barely get to the turnaround point about 1/3 way up. Just spinning the tire. 18/21, I get up about 2/3’s but begin having issues at the bumpier spots where it’s steep. I’ve seen guys make similar hill climbs with EM’s with less power, but they must just be considerably better riders than me.
The medium soft Mitas 100/90-19 tire I put on my UB improved the traction quite a bit compared to stock. O put the stock rear to the front and the bike seems to handle well at technical single track terrain. As for the hill climb, I had to change the rear sprocket to 50 to regain the lost torque. I will even try a 54 rear sprocket to see if it works better. Honestly I have no difficulty modulating the power without a clutch and almost never spun the rear tire and lost traction so far. Also I find the D mode more controllable compared to S for hill climbs. Maybe your hills are steeper and slippier than mine.
so when you say running out of power at the top, are you referring to a pinned throttle? If you were able to make it up the other lines, wouldnt that mean there is plenty of power to get up the hill? Or does the bike cut out after given amount of load on the motor to keep itself from blowing up? Guess, Im not understanding whats happening on that middle line. If you made it within 15ft of the top, that definitely contributes to rider skill vs bike ability.
It’s def rider skill and it’s hard to “spool” the motor back up on steep grades once you lose momentum. If I kept trying I probably would have been able to get it. More power would have made it easier.
Running the same set up. 54t rear sprocket. Awsome bike buy suffers on big hill climbs. Im not light ( 120kg) and have had situations where im full throttle , front end just floating and crawling up at like 5kph. Also the short wheel base makes climbs hard if you get your weight wrong. Thinking either controller and later on larger battery or sell and purchase a arctic cat 880.
@@freerunbg1 yeah maybe! I actually just did these climbs again with the full power upgrades on the bike and it was WAY easier to do it. I finally got that line that I kept failing on.
Soon! Still trying to justify the money to upgrade. Luckily my buddy just upgraded his controller and battery so I’m going to give that a test ride and make the decision from there.
The best combination for that stuff is sport mode in F2 😉
Keeping the momentum is the key there
Very true!
Surron gang! I believe you will make the first line on another day, even with no upgrade. It's all to balance and momentum as you mentioned. 🤝
Thanks for watching all the way through 😎 yea, I will get my payback on that line next time.
I love the determination!
Thank you!
Done pretty well. Love it 😀
Is it at least a modified ultra? Stock one stands like no chance but modified might.
Yeah, stock power. Upgraded power would of absolutely helped.
Get yourself a Torp TC1000 and go from 12kw to 17kw on the stock battery. Could help a lot with the steep climbs you’re running out of power on.
I've recently fitted my TC1000, max output states 15.5kw (I'm stock battery and Motor) I'm maybe missing something to get to 17kw? I haven't yet contacted Torp about this. Mind you, 15.5kw is over the top for my use⚡️✊️
Yup! Torp is on purchase. Then I’ll eventually pick up a battery.
@@gavindobson6077 it is a significant improve acceleration ? and what about the range it is decrease a lot ?
@Etonnantnon hi, thanks for the message. I have done a lot of rides now with the Torp (no vids on TH-cam yet) The range is not really impacted in my type of riding, which is single track and slower, technical riding. It all depends on your settings, riding etc. I love the controller, and I'm still on stock battery and motor. I'll line up for the TM25 motor as soon as it's available for the Ultra Bee.
Enjoy your riding mate✊️
If you do controller upgrades EBMX version 2 x9000
And battery
EBMX version 4 81.3v 76ah make sure its stats are this some bike shops are selling version 3 @ version 4 price ( they look identical except v3 is 73ah.)
With a version 4 battery you’ll be able to run 28kw continuously but be careful motor will get hot and new controller will cut the power.
Noticing the same. Although a cheater bike in technical terrain with 18/21 and gummies, its achilles heel are the big hill climbs. I struggle up some of the more difficult hill climbs that I used to go up with ease on my 2 strokes. Problem for me is lack of control… either the tire spins and momentum is lost or it grabs and starts to pull up. I’ll bet more power from battery & controller would help, but without a legitimate clutch, it’s just not as easy to feather that power. Add in some bumps, step ups, or little kickers on the hill climb, and it’s even harder to modulate that throttle accurately.
Yeah, agreed! The no clutch thing is probably the biggest gripe I have with this bike.
I disagree. I have more control with my UB compared to my KTM 300. I never felt that I would be better off if I had a clutch on my UB. The problem is caused by modifying the UB to 18/21. 18 inch with fatter tire perhaps gives better traction however at the expense of reducing the power delivered due to heavier and larger diameter tire. I bet you would climb that hill no worse with the stock 19” wheel.
@@bingeciren not even close. Getting up the easiest hills with the stock setup was atrocious. Gummy 18” tire is a game changer. Possibly I could learn to adapt my technique. But I’m not getting anywhere close to where I used to get on a few of the longest & steepest hill climbs compared to my previous KTM 300 or YZ 250. For me it’s partially lack of top end power, but mostly inability to maintain momentum. Once you slow down or hesitate just a little bit, it’s game over. My 19 factory UB setup, I could barely even get started on the more difficult hill climbs due to wheel spin.
On climbs where the front end starts comes up, shifting weight more forward as I stand on the pegs on my dirt bikes helped and if I began to lose traction, a quick slip of the clutch allowed me to ease the power delivery without losing too much momentum. Problem with electric bikes is that when you’re on a hill climb that requires full commitment to even think about making, as soon as that wheel spins just a little and you have to cut the throttle, it’s done.
Still for 95% of riding in Hawaii’s technical, muddy, rocky, terrain, I’m probably faster on my ultra bee. The crazier hill climbs, I just know I don’t have as much ability (probably part technique and part bike) as I used to with my 2T’s.
@@bingeciren In Hawaii we have a popular hill called “novice hill”. I was never great at hill climbs even when I rode my 2T’s multiple times a week. I would make the climb with my dirt bikes as long as conditions were good, too dry or too wet… I’d make it to the last steep step up. My ultra bee I tried a handful of times when I first got it with stock 19’s. Could barely get to the turnaround point about 1/3 way up. Just spinning the tire. 18/21, I get up about 2/3’s but begin having issues at the bumpier spots where it’s steep.
I’ve seen guys make similar hill climbs with EM’s with less power, but they must just be considerably better riders than me.
The medium soft Mitas 100/90-19 tire I put on my UB improved the traction quite a bit compared to stock. O put the stock rear to the front and the bike seems to handle well at technical single track terrain. As for the hill climb, I had to change the rear sprocket to 50 to regain the lost torque. I will even try a 54 rear sprocket to see if it works better. Honestly I have no difficulty modulating the power without a clutch and almost never spun the rear tire and lost traction so far. Also I find the D mode more controllable compared to S for hill climbs. Maybe your hills are steeper and slippier than mine.
Oh man, you have to try this same challange with your new controller and battery, would love to see the stock vs aftermarket climb comparison
Surron gang baby!!!
Ayyye!!!
Ultra Bee for the win!
I'm getting a road legal one soon👍👍
You'll love it!
so when you say running out of power at the top, are you referring to a pinned throttle? If you were able to make it up the other lines, wouldnt that mean there is plenty of power to get up the hill? Or does the bike cut out after given amount of load on the motor to keep itself from blowing up? Guess, Im not understanding whats happening on that middle line. If you made it within 15ft of the top, that definitely contributes to rider skill vs bike ability.
It’s def rider skill and it’s hard to “spool” the motor back up on steep grades once you lose momentum. If I kept trying I probably would have been able to get it. More power would have made it easier.
6:36 damn bro you trying to throw it down the hill?
thats what happens when you forget to hit the kill switch haha
surron gang baybayyyy!!!
Running the same set up. 54t rear sprocket. Awsome bike buy suffers on big hill climbs. Im not light ( 120kg) and have had situations where im full throttle , front end just floating and crawling up at like 5kph. Also the short wheel base makes climbs hard if you get your weight wrong. Thinking either controller and later on larger battery or sell and purchase a arctic cat 880.
😎😎💣💣
"WHAT!?"
Different controller....and/or controller and motor and different outcome.
I think bigger and thicker tires would perform much better.
@@freerunbg1 yeah maybe! I actually just did these climbs again with the full power upgrades on the bike and it was WAY easier to do it. I finally got that line that I kept failing on.
I would make it
when u getting it upgraded
Soon! Still trying to justify the money to upgrade. Luckily my buddy just upgraded his controller and battery so I’m going to give that a test ride and make the decision from there.
@@zekd absolutely can't can't wait for it man :) sending love from tacoma :)
Why do you switch to the shitty line
Surron gang baby!