Good info but I have a couple issues about putting any lube on the collet. Hard to imagine that with the amount you put on the collet, some isn’t going to get into the core. And when I change a bit, I air gun the collet and nut. If I use any lube, I’d have to completely degrease the collet and nut of grease and stuck on sawdust before regressing the collet. Maybe ok for very large production runs on one bit but otherwise a major choir for every bit change and not very practical.
I have a 3 ft lathe for 30 years and never used collets. I used the 3 and 4 jaw chuck, faceplate etc. I will soon buy a set of collets and a chuck and this is a good video to get the basics, thank you. What sort of motor is that one you had there? Like given.
Good video, but I would have like to have seen how to get the collet out of the nut. I struggle getting the collet out of the nut, I always wonder if there is a trick to it.
Thanks for the comment! We will try an include this in one of our next videos. Simply put, you need to do the exact opposite to loading the collet into the nut. Pushing the collet in the correct direction will release it from the eccentric washer.
Hi do You think it is nesessary to release the router bit, when the router is not in use? Because i always leave them in the router until I need to use another kind of bit. Thanks
Can someone help me, I have a rotor tool with OZ collet, and dose not support shank more than 3mm. I have found a source selling ER collet equal to the OZ. My main question is is it safe to have an ER collet for 3 to 4 mm?
@@Darctan1 Plus, every time you change a bit, you have to remove all the debris from inside the spindle, collet and nut held on by the lubricant that can’t be blown off. What a mess and time consuming process. And 1/8” turn to tighten. What’s that? How do you accurately measure that?
@@bw162 all i do is just clean everything from mixed coolant/dust. Then tighten new tool as tight as i can without hammer. The runout will still remain the same whatever torque it is tightened to. Car mechanics don't tighten everything to spec either because it's just a waste of time. Just get the job done and don't think too much 😂.
@@Darctan1 I’ve worked in the aerospace industry. If there is a call out for a torque setting for any fastener, it’s torqued. There are design torque values for collets. I use them. I also torque my oil plug nuts, spark plugs, etc on my cars. Doesn’t do any good to crush a washer tightening them. Neither do I want to stress a collet by over tightening it 90-degrees to the pressure angle it applies to the tool and risk twisting it or crushing it; and I have done both. We pay a lot of money to get repeatable accuracy to .0005” to risk degrading that by using garage mechanic standards on a CNC. IMO.
Great information. You have increased my confidence using my cnc. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the feedback, Derek!
Good info but I have a couple issues about putting any lube on the collet. Hard to imagine that with the amount you put on the collet, some isn’t going to get into the core. And when I change a bit, I air gun the collet and nut. If I use any lube, I’d have to completely degrease the collet and nut of grease and stuck on sawdust before regressing the collet. Maybe ok for very large production runs on one bit but otherwise a major choir for every bit change and not very practical.
thank you, cheers from the US...Paul
Nice video. I learned a lot and feel ready to work with my new ER collet set. Cheers!
Great video - everything nicely explained and to the point. I learned a lot from it - thank you !
Thank you, we're glad you found it helpful!
Very concise, truly master class. Thanks!
I have a 3 ft lathe for 30 years and never used collets. I used the 3 and 4 jaw chuck, faceplate etc. I will soon buy a set of collets and a chuck and this is a good video to get the basics, thank you. What sort of motor is that one you had there? Like given.
Thanks for the comment. The spindle motor is our own SC1 which has been built to be used with SmartBench, and is manufactured by Mafell AG.
Great !!! Thanks a lot for this lesson
Good video, but I would have like to have seen how to get the collet out of the nut. I struggle getting the collet out of the nut, I always wonder if there is a trick to it.
Thanks for the comment! We will try an include this in one of our next videos. Simply put, you need to do the exact opposite to loading the collet into the nut. Pushing the collet in the correct direction will release it from the eccentric washer.
Bit late, but just knock the nut on a wood bench and it'll pop right out. You don't have to slam it, just a light, deliberate tap.
Thank you so much for this knowledge
Great vid, thx
To the point no waffle thanks very helpfull
Hello, can any one suggest what ER collet size to use on my 8mm Marshall / Peerless Watchmakers lathe ?
Thank You
Hi do You think it is nesessary to release the router bit, when the router is not in use? Because i always leave them in the router until I need to use another kind of bit. Thanks
Hi Juan, If you are not using the machine for a while, then it would best to remove the bit from the collet.
@@YetiToolLtd 👍👍 thanks a lot
What does VAST mean
Can someone help me, I have a rotor tool with OZ collet, and dose not support shank more than 3mm. I have found a source selling ER collet equal to the OZ. My main question is is it safe to have an ER collet for 3 to 4 mm?
Hi Tron! Can you please email our sales team sales@yetitool.com and we can help you
does the molykote p40 come in smaller sizes, is there an alternative product that comes in alternative sizes
I've never heard about lubing collets. Just a waste of time to be honest.
@@Darctan1 Plus, every time you change a bit, you have to remove all the debris from inside the spindle, collet and nut held on by the lubricant that can’t be blown off. What a mess and time consuming process. And 1/8” turn to tighten. What’s that? How do you accurately measure that?
@@bw162 all i do is just clean everything from mixed coolant/dust. Then tighten new tool as tight as i can without hammer. The runout will still remain the same whatever torque it is tightened to. Car mechanics don't tighten everything to spec either because it's just a waste of time. Just get the job done and don't think too much 😂.
@@Darctan1 I’ve worked in the aerospace industry. If there is a call out for a torque setting for any fastener, it’s torqued. There are design torque values for collets. I use them. I also torque my oil plug nuts, spark plugs, etc on my cars. Doesn’t do any good to crush a washer tightening them. Neither do I want to stress a collet by over tightening it 90-degrees to the pressure angle it applies to the tool and risk twisting it or crushing it; and I have done both. We pay a lot of money to get repeatable accuracy to .0005” to risk degrading that by using garage mechanic standards on a CNC. IMO.