Every once in a while when researching a technique for a project, you happen upon EXACTLY what you needed … and even a little bit more. Thanks for this 😊
I may have missed it but, what spindle RPM do you run for that 1/8" bit ? As for evacuation of the chips, I have a short length of large ( 2.5 inch ? ) Loc-Line which is mounted to the spindle so that it follows the cutter around the table with the business end about 2 inches from the cutter. The Loc-Line is attached to my shop router and cyclone extractor which is super effective. Since the vacuum has an outlet port, I connected that to a short length of the smallest Loc-Line which is also attached to the spindle mount and blows out the chips.
Hi Chris. Loved your video and all the useful information you share. I've been a woodworker/guitar maker for forty-five plus years and owned a CNC for about fifteen. However, I have never really come to terms with routing aluminum. I have made a few attempts and the result was ok, but not great. I did make a couple of vacuum pods that worked really fine, but I switched to making them out of high pressure laminate instead simply because it is easier to machine. With the information you've provided I am now willing to give aluminum a second chance. The hide glue/MDF trick is a neat one; I've used it in the past with abalone and mother of pearl for making inlays. It works a charm. Thank you for a really good video. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Sweden. / Peter Bengtsson, master luthier
@@randysonnicksen9475 Sorry, but I highly doubt that. If that's the reading from the VFD then it may need a bit of reprogramming. It's been a few years since I set mine up but I do recall having to reprogram the readout. The best I could do was to get a readout that was a multiple of the actual RPM. If the reading is 1850 it may actually be 18,500.
I am very curious about power of the motor on the cnc machine used in this project. I have yet to purchase a cnc as aluminum and 1/16th steel are the the primary materials I plan to work with.
That’s exactly what I’m planning on doing! I’d appreciate any advice you could give me on this process. And how would you create a sharp interior angle with a round bit?
Annealing the alu before bending might be an idea as bending it without is likely to significantly reduce the strength of the metal.... It's easy enough to do, rub some soap on one side and heat the other side until the soap turns black, the alu is now annealed and about as soft and stress free as you can make it...
Because hanging a towel on that hook might exceed 60661T6 tensile strength, right? If you anneal 6061 you've turned into crappy mush. Yes, it will bend easier. It will also fail at about one third the load.
@@markbachman8321 That would almost definitely be a typo. Having RPM that low would immediately break the bit. I use around 18000 RPM with around 6 passes, and it seems to be fine.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine many will tell you it's very difficult to mill, it isn't, single flute bits are the solution, even better DLC coated or better and leave off the coolant/mist.
It's amazing that most of these machines are used to make nothing but silly, useless junk. Like how 3D printers seem to make nothing but fake turds and tiny Yoda figurines. It's still useful information, don't get me wrong.
Imagine watching someone sharing their knowledge and time with you, at no cost to you, and complaining that they didn't do enough work. You could have Googled the conversion in the time it took you to write your comment.
You can find the accompanying article and downloads for this episode here: www.woodsmith.com/article/episode-017-aluminum-milling-basics/
Every once in a while when researching a technique for a project, you happen upon EXACTLY what you needed … and even a little bit more. Thanks for this 😊
Thanks for continuing this series. Cutting parts with a Router is on my short list.
This guy is so cool. Great video, great details.
I may have missed it but, what spindle RPM do you run for that 1/8" bit ? As for evacuation of the chips, I have a short length of large ( 2.5 inch ? ) Loc-Line which is mounted to the spindle so that it follows the cutter around the table with the business end about 2 inches from the cutter. The Loc-Line is attached to my shop router and cyclone extractor which is super effective. Since the vacuum has an outlet port, I connected that to a short length of the smallest Loc-Line which is also attached to the spindle mount and blows out the chips.
Hi Chris. Loved your video and all the useful information you share. I've been a woodworker/guitar maker for forty-five plus years and owned a CNC for about fifteen. However, I have never really come to terms with routing aluminum. I have made a few attempts and the result was ok, but not great. I did make a couple of vacuum pods that worked really fine, but I switched to making them out of high pressure laminate instead simply because it is easier to machine. With the information you've provided I am now willing to give aluminum a second chance. The hide glue/MDF trick is a neat one; I've used it in the past with abalone and mother of pearl for making inlays. It works a charm. Thank you for a really good video. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Sweden. / Peter Bengtsson, master luthier
Very informative, today I made my first ever aluminium routing!
Such a great video. Would love to know what your RPM was during cutting.
1850 RPM
@@randysonnicksen9475 Sorry, but I highly doubt that. If that's the reading from the VFD then it may need a bit of reprogramming. It's been a few years since I set mine up but I do recall having to reprogram the readout. The best I could do was to get a readout that was a multiple of the actual RPM. If the reading is 1850 it may actually be 18,500.
@@DavidM2002 Oops. I meant 18500
Love the mount for the VFD is it for sale on your site
A joy to watch
I was hoping to see info or plans for the hacksaw mentioned near the beginning. Keep up the good content!
The coping saw was featured in issue 262, August 2022, of Woodsmith magazine. It's a fun build. Thanks for your interest!
Do you have a link to the 5/16" cutting length bit you used for this?
Hey. Where do you buy your metal plates?
I am very curious about power of the motor on the cnc machine used in this project. I have yet to purchase a cnc as aluminum and 1/16th steel are the the primary materials I plan to work with.
Hi, one question
how do you slow down machine on corners?
Excellent video. I am wanting to create aluminum stamping dies for heat transfer film. Sounds like 7075 aluminum would be best for this.
It is interesting how the qualities of the alloys differ. Cost and availability has steered some of my choices as much as anything.
That’s exactly what I’m planning on doing! I’d appreciate any advice you could give me on this process. And how would you create a sharp interior angle with a round bit?
How did you mount the VFD to the CNC machine?
Annealing the alu before bending might be an idea as bending it without is likely to significantly reduce the strength of the metal....
It's easy enough to do, rub some soap on one side and heat the other side until the soap turns black, the alu is now annealed and about as soft and stress free as you can make it...
Because hanging a towel on that hook might exceed 60661T6 tensile strength, right? If you anneal 6061 you've turned into crappy mush. Yes, it will bend easier. It will also fail at about one third the load.
What is your spindle speed?
1850 RPM
Hello! What is the depth of each pass? Thanks
th-cam.com/video/BgQ8USf7FWM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=S5ycOxl9dvmFQXo-&t=331
You did not mention RPM for the single flute bit??????
And I should have.....usually I run the 1/8" single flute bits at 18500 RPM and 3/16" or 1/4" bits at 1750RPm when working aluminum.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine That is a broad range, 1750 to 18500? Which one is a typo?
Thanks for the reply.
@@markbachman8321 That would almost definitely be a typo. Having RPM that low would immediately break the bit. I use around 18000 RPM with around 6 passes, and it seems to be fine.
Not quite ready for CNC yet. Maybe later 😀😀. . . .
Thank you for watching!
Personally love 1050.
I will give 1050 a try. Thanks for the recommendation!
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine many will tell you it's very difficult to mill, it isn't, single flute bits are the solution, even better DLC coated or better and leave off the coolant/mist.
Wow, you do a good job! We can supply the CNC cutter with the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
It's amazing that most of these machines are used to make nothing but silly, useless junk. Like how 3D printers seem to make nothing but fake turds and tiny Yoda figurines. It's still useful information, don't get me wrong.
Making a good video and skimping on the metric conversion for literally the rest of the world - a shame. But thanks anyway.
Imagine watching someone sharing their knowledge and time with you, at no cost to you, and complaining that they didn't do enough work. You could have Googled the conversion in the time it took you to write your comment.
@@mkern2011 What part of "thanks" did you not understand?
@@tcurdtprobably the "shame" part