How to rebuild a Ford Model A distributor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2020
- This time, your favorite Ford Model A TH-camr teams up with master Model A mechanic Bob Guimarin to rebuild distributors.
Here is the video "How to set timing on a Model A": • How to set Ford Model ...
The Model A can be made or broken by its distributor. We will share how to do it right, and make your Model A run it's best.
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Thanks for your video, time and work you put into making them. I finally got my '30 pickup running. Was the float valve. Now that she's running I can tell I need a new muffler gasket. Already watched your video on that one. Will be doing that this winter.
I needed this about 3 weeks ago. I just had to have this done by a friend after spending a full day myself with no satisfaction. lol Thanks for the video.
Great video on the rebuild of the distributor. Love your shirt, Glenn Miller Orchestra, my all time favorite.
GMO forever!
Thank you for another super video. I have had my A for about 2 years now. Last year, I had a major problem with it breaking down on the road several times. Every time it did, by the time I got out to check things it would restart. Being a new owner of an A, I was going by what everyone was telling me that were knowledgeable about A's. Everyone's advice, Change points & condenser. I had the modern points upgrade? After 3 sets, I was ready to give up. Then, after installing the fourth set, I tried to start the truck. It didn't even attempt to fire. I checked fuel, fine. Then out a desperate act, I checked spark. No spark! How can this be, I just had spark. So, I started checking voltages. After checking where I had & had no voltage, I discovered the ignition cable was shorting out on the body. I bought a new distributor from our Model A dealer a couple hours away & that truck never ran so good. It runs smoother & it added about 10 mph to it's top speed. I saved the old distributor to rebuild to the original style points so this video is very valuable for me Thank you again.
Sometimes it's the simplest thing! Good work finding that!
Thanks Paul, another great learning video. I look forward to them. Made for a nice start to my Sunday morning with my coffee. Going to look for the jewellers rouge soon.
Thanks again, PaulB
Thank you!!
Great info to go back to again and again. Thanks!
Thank you!
I think Bob needs more stuff on his work bench! 😄 Another great video! Thank you!
Good stuff. Quite possibly the worst time I've had with a set of points was on my 1971 Honda CL350e. The plate, screws and all that was fused into a solid piece.
I was in highschool at the time and had no money. I managed to get the arms moving, but had to sand down the contacts because of how pitted they were. Because of that, I needed to bring the gap I my but couldn't adjust anything since it was all fused.
So, I used a hammer to bend them in and out until they worked.
Surprisingly, the bike ran just fine and had no issues for several years after that.
Lots of very good tips in your video Paul. I've used old shafts to remove bushings by turning down the cam shoulder and pressing them out with an arbor press. With a bit of work you can also use an old shaft as a hone to lap the bushings. I really like the idea of drilling out the cam screw and shaft to accommodate lubrication of the upper bushing. Thanks to you and Bob Guimarin for sharing your knowledge.
That's a great idea! Mind if I steal it?
@@ModelA Not at all. Just remember to completely clean out the old lapping compound when you are finished. I think I just used the same stuff used on a valve seats.
Great video!
Paul I like the way you do, How do videos because you do the whole job from start to finish showing each step. I wish Bob did that. I wish he showed how to rebuild a distributor from start to finish without just talking through the steps.
Paul when I buy one I need you to move in for a few i told the wife we will be having a gust for a few while I get the car straight, Paul is the guru of these cars..lol
Nice! Be advised: I snore, I'm a nudist, I drink all the milk and put the empty container back in the fridge, I will bring your car back without enough gas to make it to the gas station, etc.
Thank you
One more member from Brasil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷😍😊
more teaching thank you
Yes! Much more on the way
I like this guy he’s extremely knowledgeable. But as he’s explaining this, oh boy got me lost. So I guess when it comes time to do something with this distributor, I’ll be buying a new one out of the catalog.
old post, so i dont expect an answer. Perhaps, you mentioned it in the video and i missed it, but there are screen shots of what looks to be a catalog, and part numbers for variouse parts along the way, as though one can order parts from a catalog. I have been wanting to rebuild my distributor for the 1930 and use this as a guide, but not sure a good place to buy a kit. Or to have access to this catalog for parts ID and order. Some fantastic content you have, and im looking forward to getting this 1930 on the road. After seeing you vids, ive decided to leave it 6v and mostly stock. Thank you! looking forward to years of fun.
That was the Bert's Model A Center catalog. They are online also, but give them a call and order whatever you need.
Thanks Paul for yet another excellent, entertaining and educational video. One little hiccup at 18:12 when you said "POINT zero two five microfarad..." should have been "zero POINT two five microfarad..." Thanks again for sharing your Model A Ford knowledge!
Good catch! Ah yes, of course. I failed!
@@ModelA No fail there Paul, you have the BEST Model A Ford videos on the Tube!!
That is very kind. Thank you!
Hello Paul,
Nice video, I learned a lot! What type of meter do you use to check your condenser? Can you check modern condensers as well? Thanks Jim
It's a capacitor meter. Nothing special. Just about any good electronics place will sell them, or a multimeter capable of measuring capacitance. Yes, you can test modern condensers with it.
Another great video Paul. Look forward thé thé T/A comparaison, pity we can’t use my T would confuse the heck out of a lot of viewers being RHD. 😂
Ha! That would be neat. My friend has a 1915 T that was on display in the Henry Ford museum for about a year and it an award winner. He agreed to let me use it for the video. That is quite an honor! Would you like to team up on that video?
Paul, I look forward to seeing the 15 and your comparison.
I was just cleaning up the Model T this morning. Plan to start filming tomorrow. Have to work around my work schedule.
This is a great video. Lots of great info. Question, should not the thrust washer Part A-12180-A be installed between the upper shaft and the distributor body? This part was not discussed... Regards
It's a super thin washer, I failed to show it but it's there. Thanks!
Oh yeah Very Interesting Paul Mammal.
Mammals just love working on their old cars you know. Raptors are wise enough to pay the greasy mammals to do it for them!
Hey Paul,
First, great to see you back looking healthy and hopefully feeling good too. Question, what do you do when the bushing is warn enough that the half inch tap doesn't bite into the bushing? Help!!
That's when I use the Dremel and patiently grind them out. It takes forever!
@@ModelA hey Paul, actually used a hacksaw blade and cut through the bushing in a couple places. Then with a small chisel could knock out the pieces. Dremel I wasn't comfortable enough to only cut brass. Thanks for all you do! Merry Christmas to you and Model T! Blessings
Paul could you show how to change original points by taking old points off and putting new points on in a video thanks
Just a couple screws. The red book has the info.
Thanks for uploading! What would be a point at which a distributor needs rebuilding? Are there numbers of tolerable play in the bushings?
If you can wiggle the points cam back and forth at all, it's time.
@@ModelA Alright, thanks! Looks like I still have some time :D
Good video, I like the proceedure to remove the bushings. Except I did not see any thrust washers being installed on the shaft or clearance checked. End play should be .003" max. Maybe I missed it?
I will do a video in the future that details how the distributors go together. This was a club seminar, and difficult to edit into a cohesive TH-cam how-to.
Good video
Thanks
Paul what r ur thoughts of a tudor vs fordor. Im looking at a nice Tudor burgandy with a merlot interior. Has a model a basement under rear floor. Just an expert told me on a fordor has a lot more wood and a lot more issues as it ages. Tudor he said is less wood less problems.
The tudor doesn't have any structural wood. The fordor is all wood with metal skin. The exception is the late 31 fordors that people call the "slant window" fordors. Those don't have any structural wood. My 29 fordor has all original wood and except for the top bows, it is petrified and feels like steel. The advantage to the fordor is the wood body framing tends to absorb a lot of noise and vibrations. The fordors tend to be smoother. The tudors tend to be louder inside like a tin can.
Hey Paul big fan had a question for you How often do you have to rebuild a distributor?
Does this happen a lot?
If you keep it lubed? Maybe once in 50 years.
Can you tell me what should be the space between the "tappet" and the valve stem when the valve is closed?
Indeed I mount my engine with adjustable "tappet" and I do not know the distance, tolerance that I must apply?
should it be zero?
I set intake valves to 11 thousandths and exhaust valves to 13 thousandths.
Very informative video. The only "thing" that I don't agree with is his dismissing of modern points. I know it's not what Henry did, but there has to be a reason the old points were fazed out. But, It looks like the old points are easily adjusted! My Victoria has the F.S. Electronic Ignition.
I've been thinking of upgrading my '30 pickup with an air balance carb and FS ignition. I know it's not stock stuff but everything I do to my truck can easily be taken off if I or someone else wants to make it more "original". Can you please tell me more about your FS ignition.
I wouldn't say he dismissed the V8 points, he and I just prefer original points. In fact, I have V8 points in my coupe right now. What he is saying is that the original points are easier to adjust. There is no denying that!
Is there any certain way the cam need to go on ? I was putting new points in mine and it doesn’t have any key or anything to keep it in a certain orientation.
It is designed to spin around until you lock the screw down. That's how you set the timing.
I replaced the original wire 'tween the lower plate and the upper plate was replaced with a computer wire encased in a soft silicone insulation containing many wire conductors. This wire is so flexible I don't think it can be broken. Ends are soldered.
Electrons are lazy and travel on the outside of a conductor and don't travel 'within' the actual wire. They always follow the path of least resistance.
Electrons traveling over the outside of a conductor is called "skin effect". That doesn't happen with DC, only high frequency alternating current, like RF.
@@ModelA Ahhh O.K. That explains why high tension wires in Canada must be electrodeposition coated [painted] to limit the actual copper molecules from being eroded from the line. In America look under the wires and plants fa to grow. Killed off by copper. And the reason why birds in the winter perch on wires as the wires are warmer. Keeps their feet warmer.
Usually, coatings on very high voltage wires are for de-icing more than anything else.
Paul you have any video on removing a steering column?
Eventually, I will do a video on rebuilding the steering, and that will certainly be part of it.
@@ModelA I will 2nd that motion. I have a closed cab and will not be able to pull my steering out to fix the light switch lever so I know I'll have to disconnect it from engine side and remove the pedals to pull the whole unit out. For some reason the off position is at 8 o'clock and it would be nice if it was at 6 like it should be.
Your switch wafer could be miswired and cause that also.
I just want to pull it out so I can send it to be rebuilt by Model A Medic
Unfortunately, the use of a 1/2" tap to remove the bushings is a non-starter. The tap doesn't have enough grip on the bushing. If the bushing is worn, there's no grip at all. Any other ways to get the bushings out???
This has always worked for us, every time, without fail. We have no backup plan for removing the bushings. I suppose if we had a severely worn pair of bushings, I could just put the housing on the milling machine and mill them out.
I had this exact problem today where the Tap would just strip it's threads. I even tried the next bush with a bolt after I tapped it, and same problem.
I ended up using a sacrificial small screwdriver and hammered it between the housing and the bush, taking care to avoid damage to the housing and only bend the bush inwards. The bush had a slot along it lengthwise, so I worked the screwdriver blade along that and bent the bush away from the housing every few taps. Eventually it got to a point where I could knock the bush out with a pin punch.
I greatly appreciate the time and effort the gentleman put in to teaching us how to reassemble a distributor. But unfortunately he's all over the place. He needs to explain how to assemble the distributor step-by-step rather than explaining how to assemble the distributor and assemble it the right way and wrong way at the exact same time. He needs to assemble the distributor and then speak about what could happen if you don't do this or this this might happen so please just stick to assembling the distributor and then talk about what can go wrong after the assembly of the distributor thank you much sir I still enjoyed the video
So, this was just a recording of a club seminar, as stated in the intro. What you are asking for is mostly covered in this video- th-cam.com/video/GP7Bk9Fa-B4/w-d-xo.html
@@ModelA mr. Shinn. I just got done watching your video of you sitting in your house assembling a distributor I greatly appreciate the video and the help with the Assembly of the distributor great video sir thank you very much
@@bobolson5086 Glad to help Bob!
I would be happy to buy a distributor from that man but I’m not sure who’s the best person to teach on how to do it. If you are experienced with this kind of distributor than he is probably talking your language exactly but if you’ve never done one before and just having general mechanical knowledge his explanations are not as clear as yours.
Can we get an in depth distributor rebuild? This one includes a lot of "Do this but not that" and "Use this but not that" Not trying to be a jerk at all, just wanting more of a step by step. Dad and I have rebuilt multiple A's, but I've never seen a rebuild on a distributor that was informative enough.
Yes. I'm putting a video together now. Please be patient, it is coming soon!
I do not like the original points I run modern with a wireless lower plate have been for over 20 years and over 200,000 miles never had a problem never had the points walk been restoring Model A for over 40 years.
That's cool. Use what works for you!
I found that the procedures taking apart and assembling the distributor was a bit scatter and hard to understand. He is not a good teacher.
He knows more than I do.
@@ModelA I am not saying anything about his knowledge, just that he dose not teach it well. procedure are scattered.