Wow! Helping a friend who bought 2 Model A's between us both we have 70 years of mechanical experience ad we were both scratching our heads until we watched your video! Thank You!
I've got an A model truck and a A model sedan and I only get mine out only every 3 or 4 years. So naturally when I get them out I've got to do some work. You've got some good facts that has really helped me out on repairing distributors. I'm running better than ever..... Thanks
I bought a 1931 Model A Roadster that's been sitting in a shed/barn for just over 40 years. I just got it home (Texas) from Idaho and I went to work right away on the distributor. I can't thank you enough for posting this video - it literally is the best video on TH-cam for how to assemble a Model A distributor. I'm ordering the new parts tomorrow - in due time I should have it running!
Well Paul, I looked at the "Thumbnail" and I thought, this will bore me Sh!tless, However, I was rivetted from start to finish. It's amazing all the little bits of experience that raised their heads and you gave us a look into the minds of the original engineers. Thanks mate.. Cheers 🥂
I'm still trying to get caught up in your videos. I just watched you polish the cam to prevent wearing the points. That's my next project cause my points closed to .004 in a year. Thanks again for the help @Paulshinn
Paul Thanks for another timely video. I am looking for an original distributor that I can rebuild to keep in the car while we are away. So, I will be sure to refer back to it for your tips. Thanks again
Paul, thank you for your "how to" videos... The quality is fantastic! Question, is there a way to modify an old style condenser to act as a spacer in a modern point design to keep the ignition actuator plate from bending. Saw the video with Bob talking about a wooden dowel option but I'm hesitant to put wood in my distributor.... thanks Wayne
Outstanding tutorial. Question: If the point gap range is from .018->.020, wouldn't it be better to set the points at .020? That will give some tolerance for the block wearing. If you set it to .018 the gap is out of specs with any amount of wear.
Great video, I learned so much. I have some questions. Why do you not particularly like the modern points. How easy is it to buy original points? Also how hard is is it to buy a original condenser? Very expensive? How often do the points and condenser need to be adjusted or replaced? You've mentioned in other videos that you keep a spare dist. Set for each vehicle, what does " set " for that vehicle mean ? Are they all the same ? Also the shaft with the oil hole , do you fill the tube to the top and keep it filled ?
When I say "original" points and condenser, I mean original type, but newly manufactured. All the Model A parts suppliers sell them. "Modern" means the V8 points. They wear too fast. If you follow my instructions, the points will outlast you and maybe need adjustment once during your lifetime. "Set" means timed. They are not all the same. See this last Saturday's video for a visual on your last question. Thank you!
Very interesting and useful video. I don’t have a Model A but I love old cars, especially Fords and your series educates me and gets me really interested in these cars; God knows, maybe I’ll end up with one! I have a question; does Pertronix or any other manufacturer stock an electronic module retrofit kit for these cars? Being that the quality of points and condensers really has gone down through the years it could be a worthwhile alternative to keep the cars reliable for use and on the road? Happy 4th!!
Yes they do, but they're junk in my opinion. Spring the $25 for a good set of quality points, polish the cam like I showed, and you will never have a problem with the distributor again. The electronic ones fail ALL the time.
Hi Paul, What "Modern" condenser would you recommend for distributors of this period? Are there any specifications that are essential to be able to request while ordering? Thank you so very much for your time and help!
Hi Paul. Just finished watching this video and I really gleaned a lot of information from it. I have worked on 50's through 70's points and condenser, but not the Model A. It's seems to me that some of it may apply to those newer models. I currently have two tractors that have points in them, a 1969 John Deere and a 1963 Massey Ferguson. I was having issues with the Massey not starting and I was wondering if I could have a short issue there, what do you think? I'll look closer at it and see if that's possible. Well anyway, thank you for posting the video and have a great day. See you next time!!!
Hmmm... If it were a Model A distributor with a short, I would tell you to check the wire from the upper plate to the lower plate, and also make sure the lower plate isn't touching the body.
Something totally unrelated. I'm seeing some photos of Model A's with spokeless or "Disk" wheels. We're these common? After-market or optional equipment? Know anyone who runs them? Are they any good? Curious. Have a great 4th!
Thanks, I have worked on them for years and this explains how things work. I have never used the new style points and probably won't as I have heard that they are experiencing poor quality typical of import parts. This includes the condensers as well. Do you use the rubber plug that goes in the hole and covers the end of the condenser and screw? I have never had one but heard they were original?
I use the rubber plug because I feel they 'help' keep moisture and dirt out of the distributor and yes there was a plug originally (altho not rubber). Good job Paul. Thank you for not mentioning the "wireless" lower plate.
Hey Paul, distributor question for you, but not Model A related. Then why am I asking you? Because you're so smart!!! 🙂 I'm working on my '53 Packard (327 straight 8 with 6 volt positive ground) and I recently picked up a vintage engine analyzer so I could set the idle and points. When I set the dwell on my points I did it by using the dwell meter and just cranking the engine over with the distributor cap off so I could easily adjust them. .017" is the recommended gap, and 31 degrees is the recommended dwell. The dwell was already very close after having gapped the points. But, when I start the engine and hook up my dwell meter it only reads 21 degrees. What would cause it to change? The bushings in my distributor were replaced last year, so there's no play in the shaft. The car seems to start and run well, but I'm a little confused as to why the different readings. If I adjust the dwell so it measures 31 while the engine is running the gap is quite tight and the car doesn't start as well and I think lacks a bit of power when driving. Different dwell equals different gap, right? Thoughts?
Dwell time is how long the points are closed between lobes. dwell changes with RPM because of the time it takes the points to travel between open and closed. widening the points gap reduces dwell. But don't get too hung up on dwell. The points only need to be closed for a very short time to saturate the coil. like milliseconds. The gap itself is more important than dwell.
Easy peasy! Do you carry an extra around with you to "Quick Change" when your traveling down the road? Always seems to go bad at the worst possible time. Better to do at the kitchen table(with the wifes approval of course!) then on the side of the road.
Hi Paul n Tina. I have a basic digital multimeter that has volts, ma, diode, snd ohms. Can I use any of that to check my condenser? PS, any one else who may know the answer lease chime in as Paul may not have time!
Sorry Paul not a distributor common: love the shelf with the wood radio collection and the cabinet model too. (Please don't get paranoid I'm not a stalker)
@@ModelA A good alarm system with outside proximity cameras and a belief in the second amendment is always useful. Perhaps if it gets bad a sign like: intruders will be dealt with by colt. My motto: Plan for the worst hope for the best
Wow! Helping a friend who bought 2 Model A's between us both we have 70 years of mechanical experience ad we were both scratching our heads until we watched your video! Thank You!
Very cool!
I've got an A model truck and a A model sedan and I only get mine out only every 3 or 4 years. So naturally when I get them out I've got to do some work. You've got some good facts that has really helped me out on repairing distributors. I'm running better than ever..... Thanks
Right on
As a new Model A owner, one with all kinds of issues I love these videos!
Thanks Mochael!
Very valuable information for "when the time comes". Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I bought a 1931 Model A Roadster that's been sitting in a shed/barn for just over 40 years. I just got it home (Texas) from Idaho and I went to work right away on the distributor. I can't thank you enough for posting this video - it literally is the best video on TH-cam for how to assemble a Model A distributor. I'm ordering the new parts tomorrow - in due time I should have it running!
Thanks! And, glad to help. Best of luck, brother!!
Well Paul, I looked at the "Thumbnail" and I thought, this will bore me Sh!tless, However, I was rivetted from start to finish. It's amazing all the little bits of experience that raised their heads and you gave us a look into the minds of the original engineers. Thanks mate.. Cheers 🥂
I'm still trying to get caught up in your videos. I just watched you polish the cam to prevent wearing the points. That's my next project cause my points closed to .004 in a year.
Thanks again for the help @Paulshinn
Glad to help!
Can’t get any simpler than that. I also only use original points and condenser. Thanks for another well presented video .
Thank you for this.
I’m still hope to own one day.
Your videos are very helpful.
Have a wonderful 4 of July.
Thanks Paul !!!!
I’m putting my spare distributor together next weekend
This was great!!
Good, straightforeward stuff! Hope your Independence Day is phenomenal.
Same to you Bill
EXCELLENT video as always Paul!
Thanks OM!
Now this I must say is how you assemble a distributor thank you much sir
Glad it helped
Fantastic Paul, as always well explained and all in details! Thanks Paul and gave a great 4 of July tomorrow!
Thanks Myron! Same to you.
Paul Thanks for another timely video. I am looking for an original distributor that I can rebuild to keep in the car while we are away. So, I will be sure to refer back to it for your tips.
Thanks again
Glad to help Carmen!
Enjoy your videos very much, I’m a newbie working on a distributor and could you tell me the actual gauge of the wire in the distributor?
Hey Paul, how about a bonus video on your antique radios.
I covered them in FAQ #1
Good content, easy to follow, will keep handy for future reference. Have a great 4th of July weekend!
Outstanding. Loved it Paul... honestly really enjoyed this a lot!!!......be well
Thanks Mark!
You might do a video about how that car's ignition system actually generates high voltage sparks.
Paul, thank you for your "how to" videos... The quality is fantastic!
Question, is there a way to modify an old style condenser to act as a spacer in a modern point design to keep the ignition actuator plate from bending. Saw the video with Bob talking about a wooden dowel option but I'm hesitant to put wood in my distributor.... thanks Wayne
I suppose so. But since the "modern" condensers are so terrible, why not just use a stock style one?
Well done as usual Paul. Thank you. Don W
Thank you Don. God bless you and Jean!! What a miracle lady!!!
Thanks for that useful video. My question is : May I use the original condenser in a 12 volts system?
Yes
Outstanding tutorial. Question: If the point gap range is from .018->.020, wouldn't it be better to set the points at .020? That will give some tolerance for the block wearing. If you set it to .018 the gap is out of specs with any amount of wear.
They will still run with gap as close as 0.005, so no worries
I like the radios in the background. What make and model is the floor unit?
It is a Crosley made in 1938
@@ModelA I have two Crosleys that I am current restoring. Since I am from Cincy, it is a home town thing.
Great video, I learned so much.
I have some questions.
Why do you not particularly like the modern points.
How easy is it to buy original points?
Also how hard is is it to buy a original condenser?
Very expensive?
How often do the points and condenser need to be adjusted or replaced?
You've mentioned in other videos that you keep a spare dist. Set for each vehicle, what does " set " for that vehicle mean ?
Are they all the same ?
Also the shaft with the oil hole , do you fill the tube to the top and keep it filled ?
When I say "original" points and condenser, I mean original type, but newly manufactured. All the Model A parts suppliers sell them. "Modern" means the V8 points. They wear too fast. If you follow my instructions, the points will outlast you and maybe need adjustment once during your lifetime.
"Set" means timed. They are not all the same.
See this last Saturday's video for a visual on your last question.
Thank you!
Very interesting and useful video. I don’t have a Model A but I love old cars, especially Fords and your series educates me and gets me really interested in these cars; God knows, maybe I’ll end up with one! I have a question; does Pertronix or any other manufacturer stock an electronic module retrofit kit for these cars? Being that the quality of points and condensers really has gone down through the years it could be a worthwhile alternative to keep the cars reliable for use and on the road? Happy 4th!!
Yes they do, but they're junk in my opinion. Spring the $25 for a good set of quality points, polish the cam like I showed, and you will never have a problem with the distributor again. The electronic ones fail ALL the time.
Hi Paul, What "Modern" condenser would you recommend for distributors of this period? Are there any specifications that are essential to be able to request while ordering? Thank you so very much for your time and help!
The ones sold by the Model A parts suppliers are all new type.
I LIKE it! Model A Points for Dummies.
Yep!
Cool. I believe that I can do that. Thank you, Paul. So helpful.
You can do it, Bob!
Hi Paul. Just finished watching this video and I really gleaned a lot of information from it. I have worked on 50's through 70's points and condenser, but not the Model A. It's seems to me that some of it may apply to those newer models. I currently have two tractors that have points in them, a 1969 John Deere and a 1963 Massey Ferguson. I was having issues with the Massey not starting and I was wondering if I could have a short issue there, what do you think? I'll look closer at it and see if that's possible. Well anyway, thank you for posting the video and have a great day. See you next time!!!
Hmmm... If it were a Model A distributor with a short, I would tell you to check the wire from the upper plate to the lower plate, and also make sure the lower plate isn't touching the body.
@@ModelA Thanks for the advice!
Something totally unrelated. I'm seeing some photos of Model A's with spokeless or "Disk" wheels. We're these common? After-market or optional equipment? Know anyone who runs them? Are they any good? Curious. Have a great 4th!
Not common. Never left the factory with them.
Do you like the heat shield under the condenser?
No. It makes things worse where I live
Thanks, I have worked on them for years and this explains how things work. I have never used the new style points and probably won't as I have heard that they are experiencing poor quality typical of import parts. This includes the condensers as well. Do you use the rubber plug that goes in the hole and covers the end of the condenser and screw? I have never had one but heard they were original?
I use the rubber plug because I feel they 'help' keep moisture and dirt out of the distributor and yes there was a plug originally (altho not rubber).
Good job Paul. Thank you for not mentioning the "wireless" lower plate.
Yes, but I just put a blob of dark wood colored silicone, looks just like the wax used at the factory
Hey Paul, distributor question for you, but not Model A related. Then why am I asking you? Because you're so smart!!! 🙂 I'm working on my '53 Packard (327 straight 8 with 6 volt positive ground) and I recently picked up a vintage engine analyzer so I could set the idle and points.
When I set the dwell on my points I did it by using the dwell meter and just cranking the engine over with the distributor cap off so I could easily adjust them. .017" is the recommended gap, and 31 degrees is the recommended dwell. The dwell was already very close after having gapped the points. But, when I start the engine and hook up my dwell meter it only reads 21 degrees. What would cause it to change? The bushings in my distributor were replaced last year, so there's no play in the shaft. The car seems to start and run well, but I'm a little confused as to why the different readings. If I adjust the dwell so it measures 31 while the engine is running the gap is quite tight and the car doesn't start as well and I think lacks a bit of power when driving. Different dwell equals different gap, right? Thoughts?
Dwell time is how long the points are closed between lobes. dwell changes with RPM because of the time it takes the points to travel between open and closed. widening the points gap reduces dwell. But don't get too hung up on dwell. The points only need to be closed for a very short time to saturate the coil. like milliseconds. The gap itself is more important than dwell.
@@ModelA Thank you! I knew you'd have a good answer! 👏
Easy peasy! Do you carry an extra around with you to "Quick Change" when your traveling down the road? Always seems to go bad at the worst possible time. Better to do at the kitchen table(with the wifes approval of course!) then on the side of the road.
Yes. I keep a pre-timed distributor in every Model A
@@ModelA Nothing like going down the road being prepaired. Living in Arizona, if you break down, you could end up dead!
Hi Paul n Tina. I have a basic digital multimeter that has volts, ma, diode, snd ohms. Can I use any of that to check my condenser?
PS, any one else who may know the answer lease chime in as Paul may not have time!
Ohmmeter can, sorta. I explained that in a more recent video.
Why wouldn't you set the new points at the widest gap since the new block will wear more as it wears in?
It won't wear at all if you polish the cam like I showed you.
What does it usually cost to have a distributor rebuilt?
In parts? Around $80 if you do everything.
Hi paul wondering if I can get your contact information, had some questions regarding a 1928 Chrysler Model 52.
My email is in several videos. I don't know a thing about Chryslers. All I know are Ford Model A's. Sorry, man. I am worthless on anything else.
Those look like nice antique radios.
Thanks! I'm partial to Crosley brand.
@@ModelA Do you restore them yourself?
yes
What gauge flexible wire do you use?
14 or 16
Did you wear the same shirt in the intro segment as the main bit of the vid on purpose?
Yes
You should make sure that the capacitor is discharged before testing or you may damage your meter.
It's such a small value (0.2 uF) No worries.
Sorry Paul not a distributor common:
love the shelf with the wood radio collection and the cabinet model too. (Please don't get paranoid I'm not a stalker)
Thanks Mack. I have already had a couple creepy stalkers. I have a much bigger dog now!
@@ModelA A good alarm system with outside proximity cameras and a belief in the second amendment is always useful. Perhaps if it gets bad a sign like: intruders will be dealt with by colt.
My motto: Plan for the worst hope for the best
LOL Love the comment about the Second Amendment!
Cool
I just found my answer in the comments