Before you assume the worst, try simply unpluging the two aarness connectors and spraying "Electro Kleen" electronics cleaner on all the contacts, let dry, some compressed air speeds it up. The replug the Harness. You would be suprised at how often that trick works on a lot of sensors / connections. A tiny amout of micro corosian you may not even be able to see can affect voltage and thro off a false reading to the CPM. Only takes 10 min.
I got exactly the same problem mate. I run the car like 20 KM all normal, let the car working for 10 minutes or so no problem and sometimes really sometimes the RPM goes up and down and the engine light turns on. I got the code 9 and many people change the ECU/Distributor but I believe it's not like change everything it's looks like a stupid solution. I will check what you did and I will try to replicate on mine scenario as well. Thank you and see you soon
I seen your videos and know a lot about Honda's I was wondering if you could help me out with my 1998 Honda Accord EX. What would make the battery to pop and lose all power? My Honda cranks but won't start it keeps blowing the ACG fuse. I've taken everything apart to find the burnt wiring. I unhooked the alternator and the the drier for the AC and tried to start my car it was still crank over but wouldn't start then the IAC started smoking and the pigtail was melting. I was wondering if you could help me out with my situation with my Honda
I'm not sure if I can help much because it sounds like you have a short somewhere in your wiring harness. Under normal circumstances, your fuses should never blow unless something starts to draw too much power or you have a short somewhere. The only thing that can cause wiring to burn like that is if one a wire that has 12v current constant or switched is grounded. What I would do is to determine all the things that flow through the ACG fuse and trace all the wires. Since it's the fuse that keeps on popping. Also, since your IAC started smoking, those wires would also need to be traced. You should use a multimeter and test if any of your wires are being grounded. Usually wiring is quite a pain to work on since you'll have to trace all the wires and look for the exposed wires. A common thing that happens is rats or other animals get into the engine bay and chew the wires. I'd say troubleshoot your wiring situation first. Hopefully the wiring didn't fry your ecu as well. If your ecu is fried, it could be why your car isn't starting, but it sounds more like wiring issue first.
Hi bro I got a problem some time my ek have check light out it's not appear and after some time it's come back automatically I face that problem many time can you plz help me that what's the problem
Alright. So since you're an ek, you'll be on obd2. Did you plug in a code reader and see what's triggering the light? Or did you jump the jumper harness to determine the code?
@@0bDaily have you tried a distributor that works fine from a friends car? You can also trace the wires for the cyp sensor and make sure that its pinned correctly on the ecu side.
@@BudgetGears this is the third distributor I have bought Evan tho checking the cyp sensor with an multimeter. All distributors are with in spec. I’ve tried swapping a new ecu I bought still the same code 9. Tested wires in harness there all gd there’s no breaks. I Evan tried running new wires it did not work. Car has been weird car day for a wile has had distErr crank no start replaced the distributor it went away got the car tuned parked it for a month and now have this code9. After adjusting that sensor today it ran a lot better but still get the code 9 at wot about 55 6500 so I hooked up the laptop today and noticed when I try clicking the high cam/fuel maps. It automatically switches to the low tables. If I disconnect from ecu smanager allows you to stay in high tables. I’m thinking it’s a bug
@@single_cam9199 hmm thats really odd. I'm not familiar with playing with the fuel and timing maps but sounds like something is weird with the maps. Is all your mechanical timing correct?
@@BudgetGears yes sr. You can only get 17 degrees on the distributor. The tuner takes in account for the degree in the tables. D16 made 436hp 380tq at 58% duty a lot left in it if I want it turned up
@@single_cam9199 very weird. I honestly can't think of what might be the issue. Have you checked the honda forums to see if anyone had similar issue and had fixed it? I do remember many people reporting the issue but never had any solutions. Unless there's a short in one of the wires somewhere.
Before you assume the worst, try simply unpluging the two aarness connectors and spraying "Electro Kleen" electronics cleaner on all the contacts, let dry, some compressed air speeds it up. The replug the Harness. You would be suprised at how often that trick works on a lot of sensors / connections. A tiny amout of micro corosian you may not even be able to see can affect voltage and thro off a false reading to the CPM. Only takes 10 min.
Dude thank you so much!!! I totally moved the sensor too when adding a wire for rpm signal
No problem! Glad it helped you out. 😁
Going to try this tomorrow. I’ll let y’all know if it works.
I got exactly the same problem mate. I run the car like 20 KM all normal, let the car working for 10 minutes or so no problem and sometimes really sometimes the RPM goes up and down and the engine light turns on. I got the code 9 and many people change the ECU/Distributor but I believe it's not like change everything it's looks like a stupid solution.
I will check what you did and I will try to replicate on mine scenario as well.
Thank you and see you soon
im having this issue atm too, SO FRUSTRATING
I seen your videos and know a lot about Honda's I was wondering if you could help me out with my 1998 Honda Accord EX. What would make the battery to pop and lose all power? My Honda cranks but won't start it keeps blowing the ACG fuse.
I've taken everything apart to find the burnt wiring.
I unhooked the alternator and the the drier for the AC and tried to start my car it was still crank over but wouldn't start then the IAC started smoking and the pigtail was melting. I was wondering if you could help me out with my situation with my Honda
I'm not sure if I can help much because it sounds like you have a short somewhere in your wiring harness. Under normal circumstances, your fuses should never blow unless something starts to draw too much power or you have a short somewhere. The only thing that can cause wiring to burn like that is if one a wire that has 12v current constant or switched is grounded. What I would do is to determine all the things that flow through the ACG fuse and trace all the wires. Since it's the fuse that keeps on popping. Also, since your IAC started smoking, those wires would also need to be traced. You should use a multimeter and test if any of your wires are being grounded.
Usually wiring is quite a pain to work on since you'll have to trace all the wires and look for the exposed wires. A common thing that happens is rats or other animals get into the engine bay and chew the wires.
I'd say troubleshoot your wiring situation first. Hopefully the wiring didn't fry your ecu as well. If your ecu is fried, it could be why your car isn't starting, but it sounds more like wiring issue first.
Hi bro I got a problem some time my ek have check light out it's not appear and after some time it's come back automatically I face that problem many time can you plz help me that what's the problem
It's have d16
Alright. So since you're an ek, you'll be on obd2. Did you plug in a code reader and see what's triggering the light? Or did you jump the jumper harness to determine the code?
@@BudgetGears I have same problem it’s EJ9 2000 obd2b conversion to obd1 d16 throws code 9? Replaced the icm still the same?
@@0bDaily have you tried a distributor that works fine from a friends car? You can also trace the wires for the cyp sensor and make sure that its pinned correctly on the ecu side.
Code 9 won’t go away
If you've adjusted the sensor and it doesn't fix it, I'd try borrowing a known good distributor and try that.
@@BudgetGears this is the third distributor I have bought Evan tho checking the cyp sensor with an multimeter. All distributors are with in spec. I’ve tried swapping a new ecu I bought still the same code 9. Tested wires in harness there all gd there’s no breaks. I Evan tried running new wires it did not work. Car has been weird car day for a wile has had distErr crank no start replaced the distributor it went away got the car tuned parked it for a month and now have this code9. After adjusting that sensor today it ran a lot better but still get the code 9 at wot about 55 6500 so I hooked up the laptop today and noticed when I try clicking the high cam/fuel maps. It automatically switches to the low tables. If I disconnect from ecu smanager allows you to stay in high tables. I’m thinking it’s a bug
@@single_cam9199 hmm thats really odd. I'm not familiar with playing with the fuel and timing maps but sounds like something is weird with the maps. Is all your mechanical timing correct?
@@BudgetGears yes sr. You can only get 17 degrees on the distributor. The tuner takes in account for the degree in the tables. D16 made 436hp 380tq at 58% duty a lot left in it if I want it turned up
@@single_cam9199 very weird. I honestly can't think of what might be the issue. Have you checked the honda forums to see if anyone had similar issue and had fixed it? I do remember many people reporting the issue but never had any solutions. Unless there's a short in one of the wires somewhere.