Thank you! I successfully removed my tank and checked the air filter. Now ready to install a new petcock and put the tank back on. Enjoyed your patience and wording " a bit of a wrestling match" with removing the two hoses from the petcock (which it was!), "hunt for a few threads" when reinstalling the fuel tank, etc.
oh man, i was recently complaining about tank removal on my new VTX1800 and someone told me to be glad i don't have a Valkyrie (which i also considered)... That is why i came here to check and man were they right.... and to think you need to do it to change the air filter... well, at least you get practice soon doing it every year to change it :D Great video
@@usethenoodle I'm excited to see them! Not too many shops want to touch these old Valkyries. Now I know how to check my filter! I'm for sure not going near the carbs though. They look... Fun...
Thank you for your video, that ramp seems like useful tool. I have a Valkyrie Interstate 1999 and I plan to check the air filter. I will follow your instructions. Thanks again from San Diego.
Only 2 hoses that have to come off the tank. The hose that goes to the back of the petcock can be remove by taking it off from the last or back carburetor plenum area on left side of bike. Just remember to route it again as you reset tank on the bike.
I minimized the need to remove the tank by installing a K&N filter. Reattaching the hoses is a real PIA. I used a needle nose pliers to slide the clamp back on.
Hi Mark. Good move on the K&N. It is lifetime but still has to be cleaned and oiled on a schedule. I would think every other oil change would be sufficient. I've used K&N on a lot of my engines. I had it on the Superduty but it was noisy as hell. I was also worried about dust getting into my turbo. I removed it and went with the Ford Extreme Duty Air filtration system made by Donaldson. The military used that system in the desert. Thanks for commenting!
@@usethenoodle Yes, turbos require absolutely clean air and clean oil. My Valkyrie stipulates 50,000 miles I believe, which I did, but the filter was pretty clean. I don’t ride in dusty conditions. My Valkyrie needs a new stator, which doesn’t appear to be an easy task. My initial attempt resulted in one of three bolts breaking off so I need to soak the remaining bolts in penetrating oil.
@@markmath2883 Yes, if you don't ride in a lot of dust you are good for longer intervals. As to the broken bolt issue, maybe try a small butane torch applied just to the heads of the bolts. They must be lock-tited with Red. Some heat carefully applied should break the bond. You may have to try several cycles of heat/cool but they can't really rust up in there. Has to be an inappropriate application of Red Locktite. If so, penetrant won't help. I've never had a lot of luck with penetrating oils. Project Farm here on YT says 3 in 1 is the best. Also a hammer/impact driver tool might provide the shock to break them free without snapping the heads off... www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1G6MHXFG7HA3S&keywords=hammer+impact+driver+tool&qid=1669043800&sprefix=hammer+impact+tool%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-6 Also I've had great success with this on an air hammer... www.amazon.com/Shake-Break-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000BHJ7JM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=J51DG4UI01IW&keywords=air+hammer+screw+buster&qid=1669043903&sprefix=Air+hammer+screw+%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-5 Good luck and we'll hope for a quick success!
Hi, no, not really. The main thing to clamp is the fuel line off the petcock. It's just a bit fiddly. The vacuum hose to the petcock has no clamp, and the fuel tank vent hose that runs down to the charcoal EVAP canister isn't really critical to clamp either. The California bikes like mine have the EVAP system. Thats the small vent line under the rear of the tank where I insert the wood block. I assume that is just an open vent line on a non California bike. I'm removing all the EVAP and Pulsed Secondary Air System stuff on rebuild. Often known as SMOG DELETE in the forums. The EVAP system collects evaporated fuel vapor from the tank and carbs while the motor isn't running, and stores the vapors in the charcoal canister under the bike by the kick stand. Then on start up, the vacuum controlled valves open and the vapors are sucked into the intake manifolds and burned. There are a ton of little rubber lines involved that are all potential vacuum leak failure points. The PAIR or pulsed air injection system has another vacuum valve that opens on deceleration and pushes filtered air from the air box through two one way reed valves atop the motor into the exhaust stream to help burn any excess hydrocarbons that escape the combustion process during deceleration. All Valkyries have this system but it can also cause vacuum leaks, malfunctions and backfiring. It's all coming off. However it can cause air/fuel mixture issues when removed. To address that issue, I have ordered a spectrum of 3 different than stock carb jets to try if I have mixture issues. There are a couple of excellent articles on these systems as well as re-jetting on the Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club VRCC 1500 Tech forums. Also the factory service manual has an excellent description of the two emission systems toward the front of the book. You don't realize any real performance gains from removing these two systems but it does clean up the top of the motor, and remove a bunch of failure points which can malfunction and lead to vacuum leaks and mixture problems which can cause poor performance, and rideability issues. I think it's best to take it all off. I'm not in California anyway. I'll be doing a video on my experiences around the SMOG delete process. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great Video. Tell me something as I prepare to do what you did....I DO NOT WANT TO REMOVE THE CARBS but bike has been sitting and carbs need to be a a minimum flushed out. Here is what I want to do: (Is this possible). I want to remove the tank, leave filter box in place...remove the bottom intake runners that run from the cylinder heads to the carbs. Then remove each of the float bowl covers and then blow out with compressed air and or carb spray the needle seats, idle and primary jets. Pull the chrome covers off the tops of the carbs and clean what I can. Is this possible? Or at a minimum...leave bowls on and flood from drain screw upward with Seafoam. Ever heard of or seen anyone accomplishing it this way? tks
Hi gandi2123, I'll be the first to admit that while I do all my own mechanical work, I'm new to this machine. I bought it ~3 months ago sight unseen from an online dealership ad. So I'm no experienced authority on the Valkyrie. That said I have done a lot of work over decades on small engines and carbs. The thing that really mucks up a carb is ethanol fuel left in the carbs and then, going bad. The ethanol attracts water out of the air. Then, as the old fuel goes sour and drys out, it makes a residue that looks like white chalk. That material causes a lot of the jets, openings, passages and ports to plug up. Some of these openings are very small but critical for smooth carb operation. It also will continue to plug things up for as long as it isn't fully cleaned out. In my humble opinion, each float bowl should be removed and inspected for this white corrosion. If there is little to no chalky crap in the bowl, I wouldn't go much farther. If there is, then the only way to be really sure you get it all out is to remove the carbs, disassemble them and run them through an ultrasonic bath. Then rinse them good and blow them dry with compressed air. The kits are available on eBay to supply you with the parts that should be replaced. I know it's a daunting job but if you take your time, you should be fine. Having the factory service manual is a must if you don't already have it. Often you can search for a .pdf copy for under $20.00. I found my hard copy on eBay for $16.00. I got lucky. I just think if there is white corrosion present the only way to be sure is to pull them off and go through them one at a time. There are some good videos on it. This guy has a several part series to walk you through it. th-cam.com/video/eDLTpQCTBsc/w-d-xo.html Good Luck.
Thanks. Very helpful. I didn't even know there was such a thing as a hose clamp plier.
Thank you! I successfully removed my tank and checked the air filter. Now ready to install a new petcock and put the tank back on. Enjoyed your patience and wording " a bit of a wrestling match" with removing the two hoses from the petcock (which it was!), "hunt for a few threads" when reinstalling the fuel tank, etc.
Happy it helped!
Nicely done! My ‘98 acquired a ding in the tank so I’m considering taking it off and sending for repairs.
oh man, i was recently complaining about tank removal on my new VTX1800 and someone told me to be glad i don't have a Valkyrie (which i also considered)... That is why i came here to check and man were they right.... and to think you need to do it to change the air filter... well, at least you get practice soon doing it every year to change it :D
Great video
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate you!
Absolutely perfect, thank you for sharing! I've been looking all over for something like this.
Hey thanks Antonio! Glad it helped you out. There will be more to come.
@@usethenoodle I'm excited to see them! Not too many shops want to touch these old Valkyries. Now I know how to check my filter! I'm for sure not going near the carbs though. They look... Fun...
@@antoniosalce4793 LOL, you can watch me attempt it! Mine are coming off. I have no choice.
Thank you for your video, that ramp seems like useful tool. I have a Valkyrie Interstate 1999 and I plan to check the air filter. I will follow your instructions. Thanks again from San Diego.
Glad to be of help! Regards from the tiny town of Yelm, WA
Excellent video, easygoing and straight forward information. Thanks
Very glad to help out Kevin!
Only 2 hoses that have to come off the tank. The hose that goes to the back of the petcock can be remove by taking it off from the last or back carburetor plenum area on left side of bike. Just remember to route it again as you reset tank on the bike.
Thanks, refreshingly to the point
Hey, Thanks again!!!!
I minimized the need to remove the tank by installing a K&N filter. Reattaching the hoses is a real PIA. I used a needle nose pliers to slide the clamp back on.
Hi Mark. Good move on the K&N. It is lifetime but still has to be cleaned and oiled on a schedule. I would think every other oil change would be sufficient. I've used K&N on a lot of my engines. I had it on the Superduty but it was noisy as hell. I was also worried about dust getting into my turbo. I removed it and went with the Ford Extreme Duty Air filtration system made by Donaldson. The military used that system in the desert. Thanks for commenting!
@@usethenoodle Yes, turbos require absolutely clean air and clean oil. My Valkyrie stipulates 50,000 miles I believe, which I did, but the filter was pretty clean. I don’t ride in dusty conditions. My Valkyrie needs a new stator, which doesn’t appear to be an easy task. My initial attempt resulted in one of three bolts breaking off so I need to soak the remaining bolts in penetrating oil.
@@markmath2883 Yes, if you don't ride in a lot of dust you are good for longer intervals. As to the broken bolt issue, maybe try a small butane torch applied just to the heads of the bolts. They must be lock-tited with Red. Some heat carefully applied should break the bond. You may have to try several cycles of heat/cool but they can't really rust up in there. Has to be an inappropriate application of Red Locktite. If so, penetrant won't help. I've never had a lot of luck with penetrating oils. Project Farm here on YT says 3 in 1 is the best. Also a hammer/impact driver tool might provide the shock to break them free without snapping the heads off...
www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1G6MHXFG7HA3S&keywords=hammer+impact+driver+tool&qid=1669043800&sprefix=hammer+impact+tool%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-6
Also I've had great success with this on an air hammer...
www.amazon.com/Shake-Break-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000BHJ7JM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=J51DG4UI01IW&keywords=air+hammer+screw+buster&qid=1669043903&sprefix=Air+hammer+screw+%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-5
Good luck and we'll hope for a quick success!
@@usethenoodle Great advice! Thanks!
Nice to watch the air filter removal part of the video from across the garage. 😉 Any difficulties getting those hoses re-clamped correctly?
Hi, no, not really. The main thing to clamp is the fuel line off the petcock. It's just a bit fiddly. The vacuum hose to the petcock has no clamp, and the fuel tank vent hose that runs down to the charcoal EVAP canister isn't really critical to clamp either. The California bikes like mine have the EVAP system.
Thats the small vent line under the rear of the tank where I insert the wood block. I assume that is just an open vent line on a non California bike. I'm removing all the EVAP and Pulsed Secondary Air System stuff on rebuild. Often known as SMOG DELETE in the forums.
The EVAP system collects evaporated fuel vapor from the tank and carbs while the motor isn't running, and stores the vapors in the charcoal canister under the bike by the kick stand. Then on start up, the vacuum controlled valves open and the vapors are sucked into the intake manifolds and burned. There are a ton of little rubber lines involved that are all potential vacuum leak failure points.
The PAIR or pulsed air injection system has another vacuum valve that opens on deceleration and pushes filtered air from the air box through two one way reed valves atop the motor into the exhaust stream to help burn any excess hydrocarbons that escape the combustion process during deceleration. All Valkyries have this system but it can also cause vacuum leaks, malfunctions and backfiring. It's all coming off.
However it can cause air/fuel mixture issues when removed. To address that issue, I have ordered a spectrum of 3 different than stock carb jets to try if I have mixture issues. There are a couple of excellent articles on these systems as well as re-jetting on the Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club VRCC 1500 Tech forums. Also the factory service manual has an excellent description of the two emission systems toward the front of the book.
You don't realize any real performance gains from removing these two systems but it does clean up the top of the motor, and remove a bunch of failure points which can malfunction and lead to vacuum leaks and mixture problems which can cause poor performance, and rideability issues. I think it's best to take it all off. I'm not in California anyway. I'll be doing a video on my experiences around the SMOG delete process. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great Video. Tell me something as I prepare to do what you did....I DO NOT WANT TO REMOVE THE CARBS but bike has been sitting and carbs need to be a a minimum flushed out. Here is what I want to do: (Is this possible). I want to remove the tank, leave filter box in place...remove the bottom intake runners that run from the cylinder heads to the carbs. Then remove each of the float bowl covers and then blow out with compressed air and or carb spray the needle seats, idle and primary jets. Pull the chrome covers off the tops of the carbs and clean what I can. Is this possible? Or at a minimum...leave bowls on and flood from drain screw upward with Seafoam. Ever heard of or seen anyone accomplishing it this way? tks
Hi gandi2123, I'll be the first to admit that while I do all my own mechanical work, I'm new to this machine. I bought it ~3 months ago sight unseen from an online dealership ad. So I'm no experienced authority on the Valkyrie. That said I have done a lot of work over decades on small engines and carbs.
The thing that really mucks up a carb is ethanol fuel left in the carbs and then, going bad. The ethanol attracts water out of the air. Then, as the old fuel goes sour and drys out, it makes a residue that looks like white chalk. That material causes a lot of the jets, openings, passages and ports to plug up. Some of these openings are very small but critical for smooth carb operation. It also will continue to plug things up for as long as it isn't fully cleaned out.
In my humble opinion, each float bowl should be removed and inspected for this white corrosion. If there is little to no chalky crap in the bowl, I wouldn't go much farther. If there is, then the only way to be really sure you get it all out is to remove the carbs, disassemble them and run them through an ultrasonic bath. Then rinse them good and blow them dry with compressed air. The kits are available on eBay to supply you with the parts that should be replaced. I know it's a daunting job but if you take your time, you should be fine. Having the factory service manual is a must if you don't already have it. Often you can search for a .pdf copy for under $20.00. I found my hard copy on eBay for $16.00. I got lucky. I just think if there is white corrosion present the only way to be sure is to pull them off and go through them one at a time. There are some good videos on it. This guy has a several part series to walk you through it. th-cam.com/video/eDLTpQCTBsc/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck.
Was hoping there was an easier way to replace air filter, without having to remove tank!