I think you had a metallurgical failure, freeze at 23:51 where you have the two rod halves in hand. The bottom one, look at the split on the right; it comes in from the outside, and it's not shiny. Then it kind of crests, and there's an abrupt transition into shiny metal. That's a traveling fracture. Basically the rod broke in "greenstick" fashion and stretched enough while it was doing it to hammer the piston into the head.
By Jove, that's _just_ what _I_ was about to think! But seriously, when it turned out that the #4 big-end bearing was good, I immediately thought of a "rod-stretcher" event like overrevving on a downshift or a missed upshift.
@@socmonki That's right. It had an automatic money shift machine bolted to it. hehe. But no seriously it is possible for these modern transmissions to "money shift" if it fails to shift the right way at high rpm. Certainly not a common occurrence and far more likely to happen to something like a 10r80 but still possible.
Same here. He's taught me so much about engines and what their common failure points are. Plus, it's interesting the different ways people could completely destroy them
Based on the fact that the wrist pin is pristine, which it would not be had the piston failed first, my guess is going to be that the rod failed first. Not the bearing, *the rod*. I'd have to put the fragments under a magnifier to spot the fracture point, but I'm confident that the rod had to have failed first, and then the remainder of it bludgeoned the rest. This kind of failure was essentially unknown in engines of the past, but I see them happening more often as time goes on. I blame the engineers' reliance on materials perfection and the relentless drive for reduction in mass (with the goal of increased "efficiency") as the source of this tendency toward failures. As for why this specific engine failed, perhaps over-revving might have been involved,. but if the seminal failure point shows stairstepped fracturing, then the final-failure break could have taken place at almost any speed.
I agree, this seems like a material defect in the rod -- an inclusion that weakened the rod. A key clue here is the longitudinal fracture through the thinner part of the rod -- I have never seen that type of failure before.
Pre-ignition could have done the piston and rod in at the same time with lateral forces, but I’m with you: that piston split and the rest is collateral damage.
Exelente lo suyo señor 👏 👏, bielas de material sinterizado con escaso margen de seguridad, antes a los motores se les daba un poco más de robustez por las dudas, hoy todo se calcula al mm..... y puede fallar
just an other example of how cheap and incompetent car manufactures are getting. its all about making a dollar and cars have become disposable now . drive 3-5 years car dies buy new one dealer makes more money! remember when we used to drive cars for like 20 years? now your lucky if u get 5 years
I have built/stripped engines for 50 years and I love watching you strip engines. Your production skills using time lapse are excellent integrating comments, love it. I also like reading the comments from the "desktop mechanics", they don't even know how obvious they are. Keep up the good videos!
When the 3.5l EcoBoom blew at 19k miles on my 2013 F150, the bearing was perfect. I bought it brand new and always changed the oil religiously. Always used Amsoil in it. The rods Ford uses are weak. Think it’s the same rods used in a Briggs and Stratton.
You definitely did something wrong I am not sure if they changed something but my 3.5 2020 F150 is 96K and didn't have any issues except some electrical stuff Doing your maintenance prevents you from having a huge ass bill in the end
They’ve just been doing it the longest. Toyota and Ram, particularly Ram, are making strides. I bet the 500 hp 3.0 SST will do a great job ejecting wrist pins
Due to the lack of bore damage, that Conrod failed first. Piston to head contact is key here. Bearings are fine, no excessive wear on the wrist pin or bores. Only thing I can think of that could cause piston to head contact like that is rod stretch at high rpm. If that rod isn’t cast, hardened, and tempered properly, it may not have had the tensile strength to hold up long term to the stresses leading to a fatigue failure. Luckily cylinder 2 seems to be suffering a similar fate but stayed intact. It would be nice to see a closer look at it, and measure it to see if there’s any distortion in the rod itself.
Also, maybe injector stuck open? caused the cylinder to fill up with high pressure fuel, when the piston came back around it tried to compress against 1/4" solid and the conrod exploded down the middle, probably sounded like a HUGE knock. Then on the way down it ripped to shreds.
@@speed150mph yes, you are right... Looking back at the head now. This is a crazy what-if... but it could almost make sense(since rod stretch was occurring on 4 and 2), 4 hit the head several times. What IF, that transferred into crushing part of that injector via the head crush and dumped fuel? I know that's an extremely low probability. Most likely (this is how I interpreted your OP), the rod stretched out, and the piston smacking the head would compress the rod back, and if we're talking weak rods, it probably started stress fracturing right then. You could test the thickness of the rod bearing and see if it shows sign of compression at it's peak. But it probably filled itself with hairlines, and a few revs later, tore itself to pieces and swiped the inside of the block.
I think it was a parts failure! I think the connecting rod failed first. Look at the way the rod fractured. Engine looks well maintained and no sign of coolant intrusion either!
The early 2.0s didn't have the intrusion issue. The 2015 and up Escape did, because of a redesign in the cooling system. Why they redesigned it? No idea. Should have just kept the original design. 264k still going strong in my ST.
When (if) a wrist pin deforms in ANY way, the piston stops pivoting on the pin & the piston from pin bore up gets yanked away from the bottom of the piston. This happened to the SuperStock AMXs back in the late 60s early 70s when the wrist pins went oval at high Rs (stock rods & cranks are forged steel, 8500 RPM capable). Fix was tool steel .200" wall pins. I got mine from JE for $200 in the previous century...
I had one of those come in in a Range Rover Discovery Sport that died on the road I found a broken/ stretched Bolt that was meant to retain the Intake cam phaser to the camshaft, scoped all the cylinders, found no valve marks on the pistons and all the valves moved freely. All new timing set from Ford, plus the timing tool kit as there are no keyways holding the sprockets in time. Engine fired right up and the customer was happy we were able to save his engine for less than 20% of the Range Rover Dealer quote.
I am loving these modern Ford engines. Sure we are looking ones that have failed and been abused but Ford really makes great engines now. I love looking at the engineering.
@@timbutton4990 It's because there are no "moderate failures" in the EB line. They either run beautifully, or suffer from a rapid kinetic deconstruction.
One of my old fleet 3.5 Ecoboost V6s ran low on oil (very quickly apparently) and did this. The driver said he turned it off immediately, got it back to find no holes in the block so we started taring it down to find 3 and 6 rod bearings bad, clearly a loss of oil issue, but interestingly the piston, wrist pin and about 1 inch of rod was up against the head in great shape, the rod had obliterated itself almost just like this between there and the crank.
Happy to watch this teardown, especially seeing a timing chain AND an oil pump chain. I hope Ford didn't change that in the 10 years between this engine and my 2024 ecoboost 2.0 Maverick.
Thank you so much for removing the water pump the correct way, by smashing it off... Whenever you get a engine with holes, water pumps need to be removed this way as it makes fantastic viewing... I really enjoy your videos and what you do... Thank you so much.
I would suggest doing a dye-pen or macro acid-etch of a cross section of the rods. Basically cut it in two, polish it up real nice, and look for cracks/porosity/metalurgical problems. Because metallurgy is the only way I can see something suddenly failing like that, short of hydrolock or something. Maybe the rods started to stretch over the years, and it struck the head hard enough to crack.
I can’t imagine how the convo went in the ford engineering department when the new kid suggested keyless chain sprockets. Somehow he won the argument 🤯
LSPI from someone stepping on it and the tranny didn't downshift, or running too lean from an injector/fuel pump issue are one of the ways you can break a weak rod in am EcoBoost
Looks like a fatigue issue or perhaps a flaw or void in the rod, and that perpetuated a crack that became a boom. In the days before rev-limiters, rods would let go by over-rev and do the same type of damage you have there.
I'm guessing LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) that small GDI turbo engines have experienced. They call it super-knock. Premature ignition shattered the rod and lower piston allowing it to kiss the head on compression stroke. Cause could be as simple as wrong oil. This condition is why the API developed the SP classification and reduced the calcium content.
The only thing I can think of for a cause is that connecting rod on #4 had an "inclusion" in the steel. Combine that with the mileage and you end up with a fatigue failure and they kept on driving in spite of the clattering it was making.
You know when you said I can hear you now "But its still good" you've been tearing down Stuff since you where probably a lad, I think you probably know best what move's and what's good for scrap. Also every time I watch you remove a water pump I can hear someone in the comment's typing furiously "BUT IT'S STILL GOOD!" Yeah might Look good might have just been replaced less then 200 mile's ago.. you want a used water pump go get one from a pull a part place Probably won't cause they wouldn't trust it. Anyway Enjoy your content thank you Always making the weekend a little bit brighter!
14:42 the slit you're referring to was phased in as part of a new block design with an open deck in 2015-17, along with a new head casting and the twin-scroll turbo; casting code for that block is FB5Z (accordingto Tasca Parts' website, though according to that same website the new block casting was phased in BEFORE The twin scroll engine came online for some applications). The block for this engine (and by extension all of the 'early' 2.0L EcoBoosts) is casting code AG9Z (again, per Tasca Parts' website). As an aside, the Focus ST never received the FB5Z block (or the twin scroll turbo engine as a whole, at least not for the North American market). There's a TSB for the twin scroll engines for coolant intrusion for cars made up to about mid-April 2019 IIRC. Ford says to replace the long block if coolant intrusion is found. No official word on what the problem was, but some of the comments I've seen on social media (admittedly not a great source) have speculated that the issue is excessive porosity in the block AND head castings, which would explain why Ford says to replace the engine as a whole. A new long block from Ford is apparently priced very attractively, FWIW. The coolant intrusion issue sometimes affects early 2.0L engines but it's hit or miss, again according to social media; the aforementioned TSB actually DID mention the 15-16 Fusions when it was originally issued, but it was revised two weeks later to remove those cars from the affected vehicle list; I don't recall if the early 3G Escapes were listed in it.
When I worked at a Ford Garage, had a 5.4 throw a rod, tore it down and I couldn't figure out why it threw a rod either, bearings were great, same with the cams, timing components were great, 2 valve so no phasers. I can only suspect it was some manufacturing issue.
I don't think this was anything the owner did. Over-revving the engine is a possibility but modern engines have rev limiters that kick in to prevent this exact thing from happening. Sure it can be bypassed but that's only possible with a manual transmission and not a lot of cars have those these days. There's little if any evidence that points to neglect. Normally with neglect you see things like chewed up camshaft lobes, sludge buildup and the rod and/or main bearings will absolutely be smoked if the neglect was bad enough to cause total engine failure. Instead they're all in perfect condition even in the cylinder that grenaded itself. This leads me to my one and only remaining sound conclusion: that the engine blew up due to a factory defect. The way the rod broke (something I've never seen before) is what points to this. My theory is that the stress of normal engine use eventually exposed a weak point in the rod and caused it to break. With the rod broken, the piston struck the cylinder head causing it to break and shatter. The crank then pulled the shrapnel down with it causing it to saw its way through the engine block sending shrapnel and debris out the side and down into the oil pan.
Thanks for your years of great narration of engine explosions/carnage Eric. You're so good at narrating the carnage in an interesting and humorous way, I think the History Channel should have you narate some of their war history documentaries. And whenever WWIII blows up the Earth, I would love to see you narate that too. 🤣🤣 You the man! Side note-Love the lesson about the front pulley and timing tools as I've seen this happen way too often in the shop with used engine installs.
The only thing besides a trashed rod bering I've seen that allows a piston to hit the head is trashed wrist pin bushings. If allowed to knock long enough they will hammer the piston to pieces. When the piston finally came apart the rod was free to fly around and destroy the block. Someone should have heard that knock they just ignored it.
Just finished replacing one of these engines in a 2016 Edge with 64K for coolant intrusion into the cylinder. Looks like a broken piston on this one. Rocket Sockets will help with bolts like the rod bolts on this one.
Thank you for going the extra mile to look at that rod bearing. my opinion, the piston broke, the rod was intact. it looked like the pin was still in the rod from looking at the damage just below the cylinder. Why another piston would hit the head is a mystery?
Turn the vice grips around and put them on properly. You were putting them on backwards. Vice grips work better when you turn on the other way just like a pipe wrench.
Love your channel! I turned wrenches for 40 years. Made ASE Master Tech with L1 cert plus Master gasoline engine machinist. One solitary piece of advice for you my brother. Stop using more extension length than the minimum required. The longer the extension the more force required to turn bolts. Also applies when torquing bolts. Lose the LONG extensions!’
Any chance of you recording the conversation between you and your tool vendor when you request a warranty on one of your tools? "Hey, it's a lifetime warranty, right? I'm still alive, ain't I?"
It was an overrev. People think that you can't blow up an engine with an automatic trans because of the rev limiter---sure you can. If you're going down the highway and the trans goes into a low gear (either by mechanical failure of the trans or an oopsie), the torque converter or rev limiter won't save you---it's the auto trans version of a money shift. Thanks for the carnage, it's always appreciated
Ecoboost engines are very prone to LSPI, which breaks pistons, then the expected carnage afterwards. I've seen several with missing pieces of pistons and no compression. Boresecope used to see the damage.
You had derek off vgg visit you at 23:10? Oilpump: the bolts holding it in place also ..... Looks like a pressed in unit to me keeping itself toghetter. And yes. An socket/spanner size 8 (8 mm between the paralel slots) we call an m5 bolt. Spanner 7 is an m4 bolt. Is it so much more costly to fabricate a keyslot or even dowel pin holes to time a sprocket or pully on a shaft? I worked with engines (2000 hp 750 rpm) where the cams where rings with the inside hole conical and the shaft also conical. It occured that one started sliding thus giving false timing.
Due to coriolis force in the northern hemisphere, you should always turn your engines over clockwise, seen from the accessory end of the engine. That is why they spin this way, with the exception of some odd Honda engines.
Wrist-pins rarely die, they just get launched into the great unknown... And of course this all happened while idling at a stoplight on a Sunday afternoon trip to the grocery store.
My only guess is the piston head cracked and let go, too much friction? Ran too lean? Engine lugging or detonation perhaps? It doesn't look like a super high RPM explosion. I don't think it was an oiling failure it looks more like a defective piston rod/head or a bad air fuel mix for an extended period of time. It could also be possible the wrist pin or some of the control rings seized up, but the lack of cylinder wear kinda indicates otherwise. I lean on the side of weak piston head mixed with detonation, turbocharged it's high compression, it could have been cracked through bad driving habits and at a later point let go at a lower RPM, maybe the next warm up cycle. Maybe a defect in the cast that decided to finally rear its ugly head 160k in.
I had a 2014 Escape as a company car, with 1.8L ecoboost engine. You had to drive it like you were mad at it to get any decent power from that engine. It lasted for the two years I had it.
Did you mean the 1.6 Ecoboost? Those had a bad rep and the replacement 1.5 4cyl Engines were not much better. The 2020+ 1.5 3 cyl (totally unrelated to the other 1.5 engine) got better but still underpowered
I would guess that there probably isn't a whole lot of demand for this engine "per se", but have you seen or came across any 2017-2022 GM 3.6l LGZ motors by chance? Those were in the Chevy Colorados and GMC Canyons for those as mentiomed. I know they likely have some architecture similarity as the LLT's, LFX's, and (other 3.6l GM engines not aforementioned). Im just curious as to if anyone has happened to replace one yet. From as far as I know, they have similar issues as to timing problems and the good ol' GM Tick.
Ha! Eric! I have European ecoboost 2.0T in RR Evoque with total malice in cylinder 4. Piston broke and uncle Rodney got ripped off of crankshaft but did not make any punch holes though. @74k miles. I thought I'd see this kind of stuff on your chanel but not in my garage :) but no...
There’s one mystery which remains unrevealed (unless I missed it…. =/). We all know the water pumps and chain guides end their days via rapid forced disassembly or binning, wrist pins have infinite life, but what happens to the cam drive chains? There’s always a compliment offered regarding their condition (uniformly excellent), then… nothing. They just… disappear… with nary a mention, nothing to see here. Everybody wants to know - what happens to the chains???
I'd assume they wind up in the bin much like the water pumps and guides, no resale value on a stretched chain. Only other thing would be their own bin if the scrap dealer is willing to purchase separately if they are some specific alloy.
I have seen this type of failure onec previously on a non turbo engine. The cause in that engine was transmission went into reverse while vechile moving ar unknown forward speed. In thar engine there did not appear to be any piston to head contact. A very interesting tear down.
Not the ones with the closed deck Mazda block. Furthermore, if the failure was a result of hydrolock, the con rod would be bent. I'd say this engine was buzzed (money shifted for millennials) and the con rod and wrist pin assembly was essentially torn apart from the resulting forces.
Gen 2 2017+ had redesigned block cooling between cylinder 2 and 3 resulting in frequent head gasket leak. Total engine replacement required. That being said these things actually run good in the smaller fords with lots of low end torque and good high speed hp.
@@brucecooley4170 the engine you describe used a completely different open deck block to the engine in the video. Ford could no longer use the better Mazda MZR designed closed deck block, and were forced to redesign the block using an open deck design with machined slits between the bores for cooling - It's the machined slits between the bores that resulted in head gasket sealing and integrity issues. The closed desk Mazda block had no such issues.
I had a 2014 all-wheel drive titanium 2.0 and it lasted till 137,000 mi and still it had no issues except I had to replace the turbo because on those early years they use soft metal for the bushings on the wastegate linkage and so it would actually start leaking exhaust gas going around the turbo after a while and you couldn't make boost but other than that it was perfect when the guy ran a red light and totaled it at 137,000. As long as you do the maintenance now with the PTU you need to do that every 30,000 mi cuz it doesn't have enough fluid And also the rear diff you have to do like every 30 or 50,000 mi. Mi but if you do your maintenance and don't treat it like a piece of s*** they'll last a good long time
This reminds me of the Mazda/Ford Duratech motors with the diamond coated washer to keep the timing. Turns out they don't really stay in place and the timing can get out of sync and destroy the engine.
I would love to see you tear down a 2.4 SRT4 that came in the 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT with the aluminum intake. If you can get your hands on one. Great video as usual.
I have a 2017 2.5L that just crapped out, turns out it was number 3 piston oil scraper crapped out scoured side of cylinder, the entire rest on the motor looked like new, 77k miles😢
I have a rental Explorer limited in my driveway with the 2.3 ecoboost and 10 speed auto. Its sort of a stripped model, but is one of the most unpleasant vehicles Ive driven for a while. Engine is raspy and the boost is weirdly peaky, and the transmission just generally doesn’t know what its supposed to be doing. These high stressed little turbo motors are just disasters waiting to happen. Thank God we still have a few companies like Mazda making normally aspirated engines coupled to traditional transmissions that just get the job done. At least for now.
I will never buy a car with a turbo in it if I can help it. They put an immense amount of stress on the engine especially 4 cylinders. From day 1 it's a ticking time bomb. They will almost never live as long as their naturally aspirated counterparts.
@@imBriz A lot of modern aluminium block & aluminium head diesel engines are not great. At the very least, many of them have issues with the cylinder heads cracking.
Looking at the damage at the start, the bell housing damage is the clue, and that the cylinder that imploded was there. The crank normally drives the transmission, but there the opposite happened. The transmission locked up at a very high speed. The bell housing took the shock waves and shattered as we could see. I would hazard that the girdle also broke apart and the crank jumped, which caused that piston to hit the head and shatter the rod. Whatever froze the transmission (maybe that is what the young driver had not checked the oil on?) freed up, and within seconds the broken parts destroyed the block as the car rolled to the shoulder, leaving a trail of parts and oil. That would be why we didn't see much debris in the upper part of the engine. Not hydrolock, not timing, not engine oil starvation.
For having 160,000 miles it looks surprisingly clean so it clearly received all its oil changes and then some...likely a freak metal fatigue issue...likely had it to the floor and it let go...
Why do you think that your mildly amusing? you are really not!
Who said I'm amusing?
@@I_Do_Cars I do, I laugh at your waterpump antics every time!!
@@I_Do_Cars I do.
Nobody is forcing you to watch.
He's not mildly amusing, he's **extremely** amusing.
I love how they considerately included a rebuild kit inside the oil pan for you. It's like a spare tire for your engine!
These are Mazda based engines, hence the black plastic; Any questions?
I laughed way too hard at that 😅 Great way to put it 💯👍🏻
😆😂
@flies don't be Mazda fanboy
I think you had a metallurgical failure, freeze at 23:51 where you have the two rod halves in hand. The bottom one, look at the split on the right; it comes in from the outside, and it's not shiny. Then it kind of crests, and there's an abrupt transition into shiny metal. That's a traveling fracture. Basically the rod broke in "greenstick" fashion and stretched enough while it was doing it to hammer the piston into the head.
Still ecofail
I think you are correct. It's the only way the piston makes contact while having a good rod bearing.
By Jove, that's _just_ what _I_ was about to think!
But seriously, when it turned out that the #4 big-end bearing was good, I immediately thought of a "rod-stretcher" event like overrevving on a downshift or a missed upshift.
@@OgamiItto70 but it was in a Flex, so no manual transmission.
@@socmonki That's right. It had an automatic money shift machine bolted to it. hehe. But no seriously it is possible for these modern transmissions to "money shift" if it fails to shift the right way at high rpm. Certainly not a common occurrence and far more likely to happen to something like a 10r80 but still possible.
Almost died laughing when you reached into the bore and grabbed your 10mm socket through the hole in the block!
Right! I couldn't stop laughing when I saw him reaching out to grab the socket through the gaping hole.
I've learned so much from this channel. This is by far, my most favorite channel ever.
Same here. He's taught me so much about engines and what their common failure points are. Plus, it's interesting the different ways people could completely destroy them
I’ve learned the importance of checking and changing my oil
@@rleger123 Yet the vast majority won't 😮💨
Yep never ever buy Ford sh!te.
Water pump subtlety…your true gift Eric! We need a tragic water pump opera music suite. Great job Eric.
He was being gentle the entire time. Sucks that the pump is so fragile
The Phantom of the Opera- Water pump edition.
I think Eric was bullied by a water pump in the school yard in 3rd grade. Never forgave them
You broke it! Now how will you sell it?!
Based on the fact that the wrist pin is pristine, which it would not be had the piston failed first, my guess is going to be that the rod failed first. Not the bearing, *the rod*. I'd have to put the fragments under a magnifier to spot the fracture point, but I'm confident that the rod had to have failed first, and then the remainder of it bludgeoned the rest. This kind of failure was essentially unknown in engines of the past, but I see them happening more often as time goes on. I blame the engineers' reliance on materials perfection and the relentless drive for reduction in mass (with the goal of increased "efficiency") as the source of this tendency toward failures. As for why this specific engine failed, perhaps over-revving might have been involved,. but if the seminal failure point shows stairstepped fracturing, then the final-failure break could have taken place at almost any speed.
I agree, this seems like a material defect in the rod -- an inclusion that weakened the rod. A key clue here is the longitudinal fracture through the thinner part of the rod -- I have never seen that type of failure before.
Pre-ignition could have done the piston and rod in at the same time with lateral forces, but I’m with you: that piston split and the rest is collateral damage.
Exelente lo suyo señor 👏 👏, bielas de material sinterizado con escaso margen de seguridad, antes a los motores se les daba un poco más de robustez por las dudas, hoy todo se calcula al mm..... y puede fallar
just an other example of how cheap and incompetent car manufactures are getting. its all about making a dollar and cars have become disposable now . drive 3-5 years car dies buy new one dealer makes more money! remember when we used to drive cars for like 20 years? now your lucky if u get 5 years
@@somejoe7777 I agree.
I have built/stripped engines for 50 years and I love watching you strip engines. Your production skills using time lapse are excellent integrating comments, love it. I also like reading the comments from the "desktop mechanics", they don't even know how obvious they are.
Keep up the good videos!
The waterpump removal...fu*king brutal...LOVED IT!
Should see what I have to do to remove them in vehicle when their that stuck 😂
When the 3.5l EcoBoom blew at 19k miles on my 2013 F150, the bearing was perfect. I bought it brand new and always changed the oil religiously. Always used Amsoil in it.
The rods Ford uses are weak. Think it’s the same rods used in a Briggs and Stratton.
My lawn mower just got insulted 😂
The con rod in my garden tractor is 4-5 times thicker than that ferd's ever were 😂😂😂😅😊
@@johnathanedwards9054 They're saving weight. After all it is an ECO engine don't cha know?! One of them thar turbolated racer enjines.
It seems like you either get a really good one or a really bad one, not much in the middle with those engines.
You definitely did something wrong
I am not sure if they changed something but my 3.5 2020 F150 is 96K and didn't have any issues except some electrical stuff
Doing your maintenance prevents you from having a huge ass bill in the end
The snap sound of torqued screws loosening is sooo satisfying, it's always the best part😂
Ecoboost engine's make the most impressive sudden engine disassembly kits on the market!!!
They’ve just been doing it the longest. Toyota and Ram, particularly Ram, are making strides. I bet the 500 hp 3.0 SST will do a great job ejecting wrist pins
I really want a Focus ST for summer play but after seeing this video I'm not so sure.
Nailed it! Every wrench turner laughed out loud when you "chased" the infamous 10mm deep well, LOL too good. Thanks.
Due to the lack of bore damage, that Conrod failed first. Piston to head contact is key here. Bearings are fine, no excessive wear on the wrist pin or bores. Only thing I can think of that could cause piston to head contact like that is rod stretch at high rpm. If that rod isn’t cast, hardened, and tempered properly, it may not have had the tensile strength to hold up long term to the stresses leading to a fatigue failure. Luckily cylinder 2 seems to be suffering a similar fate but stayed intact. It would be nice to see a closer look at it, and measure it to see if there’s any distortion in the rod itself.
Also, maybe injector stuck open? caused the cylinder to fill up with high pressure fuel, when the piston came back around it tried to compress against 1/4" solid and the conrod exploded down the middle, probably sounded like a HUGE knock. Then on the way down it ripped to shreds.
@@th3R0b0t that wouldn’t have caused the piston to head contact.
@@speed150mph yes, you are right...
Looking back at the head now. This is a crazy what-if... but it could almost make sense(since rod stretch was occurring on 4 and 2), 4 hit the head several times. What IF, that transferred into crushing part of that injector via the head crush and dumped fuel?
I know that's an extremely low probability.
Most likely (this is how I interpreted your OP), the rod stretched out, and the piston smacking the head would compress the rod back, and if we're talking weak rods, it probably started stress fracturing right then. You could test the thickness of the rod bearing and see if it shows sign of compression at it's peak.
But it probably filled itself with hairlines, and a few revs later, tore itself to pieces and swiped the inside of the block.
Why does conrod have a capital C ??
So nice that Ford provides a spare parts container underneath the engine.
I think it was a parts failure! I think the connecting rod failed first. Look at the way the rod fractured. Engine looks well maintained and no sign of coolant intrusion either!
Ecofail
The early 2.0s didn't have the intrusion issue. The 2015 and up Escape did, because of a redesign in the cooling system. Why they redesigned it? No idea. Should have just kept the original design. 264k still going strong in my ST.
the "Terminator " hammer and later the angle grinder to persuade the rod bolt, priceless!
Eric, you're just THE best man. I've been watching you for years. I never ever get tired of this.
Nothing like an order of piston nuggets with a side of wrist pin on a Saturday night
‘Not fully hatched’ 😂
That was one of the most generously filled party pans we've seen!
When (if) a wrist pin deforms in ANY way, the piston stops pivoting on the pin & the piston from pin bore up gets yanked away from the bottom of the piston. This happened to the SuperStock AMXs back in the late 60s early 70s when the wrist pins went oval at high Rs (stock rods & cranks are forged steel, 8500 RPM capable). Fix was tool steel .200" wall pins. I got mine from JE for $200 in the previous century...
The crank turn was genius this week. Loved the view from the crankcase “window”
I had one of those come in in a Range Rover Discovery Sport that died on the road I found a broken/ stretched Bolt that was meant to retain the Intake cam phaser to the camshaft, scoped all the cylinders, found no valve marks on the pistons and all the valves moved freely. All new timing set from Ford, plus the timing tool kit as there are no keyways holding the sprockets in time. Engine fired right up and the customer was happy we were able to save his engine for less than 20% of the Range Rover Dealer quote.
These videos come online mid-morning on Sundays for me, being in Australia, my weekly Church of Eric service, beats going to a real church.
All rise for the Christ of Combustion
@@thelonelywolf88 take this piston nugget and eat it as this is my body, take this cup of engine sauce and drink it, for it is my blood.
@@Dave-id6sj - I'm dyin' 😆🤣😂😅
@@Dave-id6sj Awesome!
And lo Jesus said unto his people. "Change your oil regularly."
18:11 This was priceless! I had to laugh - the milk almost squirted out the nose! Love this method of removing the water pump! Thanks for the laugh!!!
I am loving these modern Ford engines. Sure we are looking ones that have failed and been abused but Ford really makes great engines now. I love looking at the engineering.
Err everybody calling em' eco boom because they're good? think again
@@timbutton4990 It's because there are no "moderate failures" in the EB line. They either run beautifully, or suffer from a rapid kinetic deconstruction.
One of my old fleet 3.5 Ecoboost V6s ran low on oil (very quickly apparently) and did this. The driver said he turned it off immediately, got it back to find no holes in the block so we started taring it down to find 3 and 6 rod bearings bad, clearly a loss of oil issue, but interestingly the piston, wrist pin and about 1 inch of rod was up against the head in great shape, the rod had obliterated itself almost just like this between there and the crank.
It is hard to emphasize just how much fun it is, to watch you dissect these machines after they have retired from useful service!
Having a good old time with blue! Great video for my Saturday night
Happy to watch this teardown, especially seeing a timing chain AND an oil pump chain. I hope Ford didn't change that in the 10 years between this engine and my 2024 ecoboost 2.0 Maverick.
Just a slight crack on side 1 , a bit of jb weld ( and top ramen ) it'll be good as new 👌🏻
Thank you so much for removing the water pump the correct way, by smashing it off...
Whenever you get a engine with holes, water pumps need to be removed this way as it makes fantastic viewing...
I really enjoy your videos and what you do... Thank you so much.
I would suggest doing a dye-pen or macro acid-etch of a cross section of the rods. Basically cut it in two, polish it up real nice, and look for cracks/porosity/metalurgical problems. Because metallurgy is the only way I can see something suddenly failing like that, short of hydrolock or something. Maybe the rods started to stretch over the years, and it struck the head hard enough to crack.
The love you have for water pumps is more than my own mother had for me
I can’t imagine how the convo went in the ford engineering department when the new kid suggested keyless chain sprockets. Somehow he won the argument 🤯
That engine is based on a design from the early 2000’s when ford still owned a very large portion of Mazda. The engines were keyless then.
"We'll save 50c and one machining op per unit" .... "Well, you've sold me!"
My dad have none turbo 2.0 engine from Ford. I had 2.0 Ztec engine from the early years of focus.
In defense of the engineers, id wager it was the bean counters who said with the right jig we don’t need keys and can save 40 cents a unit
Jag used that forever.
LSPI from someone stepping on it and the tranny didn't downshift, or running too lean from an injector/fuel pump issue are one of the ways you can break a weak rod in am EcoBoost
Thanks for the Saturday Night Specials. 😃
I never did like the modern 2.0L engines and you've shown us many examples of why I was right to avoid them. Many thanks for the entertainment!l
Looks like a fatigue issue or perhaps a flaw or void in the rod, and that perpetuated a crack that became a boom. In the days before rev-limiters, rods would let go by over-rev and do the same type of damage you have there.
High speed catastrophic event by rod or piston breakage.
I'm guessing LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) that small GDI turbo engines have experienced. They call it super-knock. Premature ignition shattered the rod and lower piston allowing it to kiss the head on compression stroke. Cause could be as simple as wrong oil. This condition is why the API developed the SP classification and reduced the calcium content.
The only thing I can think of for a cause is that connecting rod on #4 had an "inclusion" in the steel. Combine that with the mileage and you end up with a fatigue failure and they kept on driving in spite of the clattering it was making.
I actually laughed when the oil pan came off.
High rpm failure... You can say it. Working on cars for over 30 years. Love you're videos, please keep going no matter what.
Rod delete kit
You know when you said I can hear you now "But its still good" you've been tearing down Stuff since you where probably a lad, I think you probably know best what move's and what's good for scrap. Also every time I watch you remove a water pump I can hear someone in the comment's typing furiously "BUT IT'S STILL GOOD!" Yeah might Look good might have just been replaced less then 200 mile's ago.. you want a used water pump go get one from a pull a part place Probably won't cause they wouldn't trust it. Anyway Enjoy your content thank you Always making the weekend a little bit brighter!
Mystery blow up is usually high water and hydrolock. It can be over revving from time to time.
14:42 the slit you're referring to was phased in as part of a new block design with an open deck in 2015-17, along with a new head casting and the twin-scroll turbo; casting code for that block is FB5Z (accordingto Tasca Parts' website, though according to that same website the new block casting was phased in BEFORE The twin scroll engine came online for some applications). The block for this engine (and by extension all of the 'early' 2.0L EcoBoosts) is casting code AG9Z (again, per Tasca Parts' website). As an aside, the Focus ST never received the FB5Z block (or the twin scroll turbo engine as a whole, at least not for the North American market).
There's a TSB for the twin scroll engines for coolant intrusion for cars made up to about mid-April 2019 IIRC. Ford says to replace the long block if coolant intrusion is found. No official word on what the problem was, but some of the comments I've seen on social media (admittedly not a great source) have speculated that the issue is excessive porosity in the block AND head castings, which would explain why Ford says to replace the engine as a whole. A new long block from Ford is apparently priced very attractively, FWIW.
The coolant intrusion issue sometimes affects early 2.0L engines but it's hit or miss, again according to social media; the aforementioned TSB actually DID mention the 15-16 Fusions when it was originally issued, but it was revised two weeks later to remove those cars from the affected vehicle list; I don't recall if the early 3G Escapes were listed in it.
Air hammer in tool list for water pump replacement, I learn stuff every day.
When I worked at a Ford Garage, had a 5.4 throw a rod, tore it down and I couldn't figure out why it threw a rod either, bearings were great, same with the cams, timing components were great, 2 valve so no phasers. I can only suspect it was some manufacturing issue.
I don't think this was anything the owner did. Over-revving the engine is a possibility but modern engines have rev limiters that kick in to prevent this exact thing from happening. Sure it can be bypassed but that's only possible with a manual transmission and not a lot of cars have those these days. There's little if any evidence that points to neglect. Normally with neglect you see things like chewed up camshaft lobes, sludge buildup and the rod and/or main bearings will absolutely be smoked if the neglect was bad enough to cause total engine failure. Instead they're all in perfect condition even in the cylinder that grenaded itself. This leads me to my one and only remaining sound conclusion: that the engine blew up due to a factory defect. The way the rod broke (something I've never seen before) is what points to this. My theory is that the stress of normal engine use eventually exposed a weak point in the rod and caused it to break. With the rod broken, the piston struck the cylinder head causing it to break and shatter. The crank then pulled the shrapnel down with it causing it to saw its way through the engine block sending shrapnel and debris out the side and down into the oil pan.
It's the owners fault. The owner bought an ecofail
@@mann_idonotreadreplies I mean...you're not wrong 😂 this engine is a ticking time bomb if I ever saw one
After 164000 miles a sudden factory defect?...quit hating and be real .. hydrolock from some source much more likely
I've never seen a rod split lengthwise like that. Impressive.
Door #3 is AWESOME
Thanks for your years of great narration of engine explosions/carnage Eric. You're so good at narrating the carnage in an interesting and humorous way, I think the History Channel should have you narate some of their war history documentaries. And whenever WWIII blows up the Earth, I would love to see you narate that too. 🤣🤣 You the man!
Side note-Love the lesson about the front pulley and timing tools as I've seen this happen way too often in the shop with used engine installs.
The only thing besides a trashed rod bering I've seen that allows a piston to hit the head is trashed wrist pin bushings. If allowed to knock long enough they will hammer the piston to pieces. When the piston finally came apart the rod was free to fly around and destroy the block. Someone should have heard that knock they just ignored it.
I have a 2.0 in my 2016 Lincoln MKC. I have 160k on my engine so very interested in seeing this video.
Just finished replacing one of these engines in a 2016 Edge with 64K for coolant intrusion into the cylinder. Looks like a broken piston on this one. Rocket Sockets will help with bolts like the rod bolts on this one.
SAD
If the coolant intrusion is found early, do you think a new head gasket could solve the problem?
I can help you out ecoboom for 2 main reasons: oil starvation and the other is heater hose connection randomly exiting the building.
What do you do with all those timing chains? I’m dying to know.
Thank you for going the extra mile to look at that rod bearing. my opinion, the piston broke, the rod was intact. it looked like the pin was still in the rod from looking at the damage just below the cylinder. Why another piston would hit the head is a mystery?
Turn the vice grips around and put them on properly. You were putting them on backwards. Vice grips work better when you turn on the other way just like a pipe wrench.
I see this so often but give the guy a break ,he is not a mechanic ,more of a destructor reconstructor
@@davidkettell1073 And vise grips aren't usually part of the rod removal process...
Love your channel!
I turned wrenches for 40 years.
Made ASE Master Tech with L1 cert plus Master gasoline engine machinist.
One solitary piece of advice for you my brother.
Stop using more extension length than the minimum required.
The longer the extension the more force required to turn bolts.
Also applies when torquing bolts.
Lose the LONG extensions!’
Well-spoken Charles
Any chance of you recording the conversation between you and your tool vendor when you request a warranty on one of your tools? "Hey, it's a lifetime warranty, right? I'm still alive, ain't I?"
Gotta say. First time I’ve seen Uncle Rodney before the engine teardown. Mans was hammered😂
It was an overrev. People think that you can't blow up an engine with an automatic trans because of the rev limiter---sure you can. If you're going down the highway and the trans goes into a low gear (either by mechanical failure of the trans or an oopsie), the torque converter or rev limiter won't save you---it's the auto trans version of a money shift. Thanks for the carnage, it's always appreciated
Looks like a decent design, valve chain gear has stood up well, bottom end looks sturdy. Not bad for a Ford.
Ecoboost engines are very prone to LSPI, which breaks pistons, then the expected carnage afterwards. I've seen several with missing pieces of pistons and no compression. Boresecope used to see the damage.
Good oil, good fuel usually fixes that but not everyone is smart lol
I hope so, as I always use one of the better oils & only tier one gasoline & high octane at that. I feel that it pays in the long run.
It can't help that the automatic transmissions are programmed to go into the highest gear possible all the time.
Ecoboost = stay away. Eco crap
@@Chris_de_S wrong
You had derek off vgg visit you at 23:10? Oilpump: the bolts holding it in place also ..... Looks like a pressed in unit to me keeping itself toghetter. And yes. An socket/spanner size 8 (8 mm between the paralel slots) we call an m5 bolt. Spanner 7 is an m4 bolt. Is it so much more costly to fabricate a keyslot or even dowel pin holes to time a sprocket or pully on a shaft?
I worked with engines (2000 hp 750 rpm) where the cams where rings with the inside hole conical and the shaft also conical. It occured that one started sliding thus giving false timing.
Due to coriolis force in the northern hemisphere, you should always turn your engines over clockwise, seen from the accessory end of the engine. That is why they spin this way, with the exception of some odd Honda engines.
Before watching fully, I'm betting the PCV got plugged up and caused over pressure in the crankcase...and now to watch & see if I was even close. 😁
Well I was close after all...too much crankcase pressure. 😅
Wrist-pins rarely die, they just get launched into the great unknown...
And of course this all happened while idling at a stoplight on a Sunday afternoon trip to the grocery store.
fast food drive thru
My only guess is the piston head cracked and let go, too much friction? Ran too lean? Engine lugging or detonation perhaps? It doesn't look like a super high RPM explosion. I don't think it was an oiling failure it looks more like a defective piston rod/head or a bad air fuel mix for an extended period of time. It could also be possible the wrist pin or some of the control rings seized up, but the lack of cylinder wear kinda indicates otherwise.
I lean on the side of weak piston head mixed with detonation, turbocharged it's high compression, it could have been cracked through bad driving habits and at a later point let go at a lower RPM, maybe the next warm up cycle. Maybe a defect in the cast that decided to finally rear its ugly head 160k in.
I had a 2014 Escape as a company car, with 1.8L ecoboost engine. You had to drive it like you were mad at it to get any decent power from that engine. It lasted for the two years I had it.
Did you mean the 1.6 Ecoboost? Those had a bad rep and the replacement 1.5 4cyl Engines were not much better. The 2020+ 1.5 3 cyl (totally unrelated to the other 1.5 engine) got better but still underpowered
@@engineer_alv Yeah I checked and it was a 1.6, but it stayed together for the two years I had it.
I would guess that there probably isn't a whole lot of demand for this engine "per se", but have you seen or came across any 2017-2022 GM 3.6l LGZ motors by chance? Those were in the Chevy Colorados and GMC Canyons for those as mentiomed. I know they likely have some architecture similarity as the LLT's, LFX's, and (other 3.6l GM engines not aforementioned). Im just curious as to if anyone has happened to replace one yet. From as far as I know, they have similar issues as to timing problems and the good ol' GM Tick.
That's not an oil PAN. That's a pinyata.🎉😮
Ha! Eric! I have European ecoboost 2.0T in RR Evoque with total malice in cylinder 4. Piston broke and uncle Rodney got ripped off of crankshaft but did not make any punch holes though. @74k miles.
I thought I'd see this kind of stuff on your chanel but not in my garage :) but no...
3:20 - the infamous piston delete feature!
Government mandated 1 cylinder delete campaign, 3 cylinders get better MPGS than 4 cylinders!
I go with the cracked side as I like a good mystery. Hmmm side 3 looks like a good mystery too!
There’s one mystery which remains unrevealed (unless I missed it…. =/). We all know the water pumps and chain guides end their days via rapid forced disassembly or binning, wrist pins have infinite life, but what happens to the cam drive chains? There’s always a compliment offered regarding their condition (uniformly excellent), then… nothing. They just… disappear… with nary a mention, nothing to see here.
Everybody wants to know - what happens to the chains???
They are gold plated, and sold... TO RAP ARTISTS.
I asked a couple of times, no one answered, I even searched the internet "chain meme" etc. to no avail.. A mystery ;D
I bet Eric is using them to build a throne, like the one in "Game of Thrones", except it's made of cam drive chains. Somebody tell me I'm wrong!
I'd assume they wind up in the bin much like the water pumps and guides, no resale value on a stretched chain. Only other thing would be their own bin if the scrap dealer is willing to purchase separately if they are some specific alloy.
Gives a whole new meaning to cylinder cut out
Split connecting rod shouldn't happen. Slight flaw in the material combined with 164,oo0 miles and a high rev equals equals boom.
I have seen this type of failure onec previously on a non turbo engine. The cause in that engine was transmission went into reverse while vechile moving ar unknown forward speed. In thar engine there did not appear to be any piston to head contact. A very interesting tear down.
Those 2l ecoboost engines were well known for coolant intrusion.
That was the 2nd gen, these didn't really have issues
Not the ones with the closed deck Mazda block. Furthermore, if the failure was a result of hydrolock, the con rod would be bent. I'd say this engine was buzzed (money shifted for millennials) and the con rod and wrist pin assembly was essentially torn apart from the resulting forces.
Gen 2 2017+ had redesigned block cooling between cylinder 2 and 3 resulting in frequent head gasket leak. Total engine replacement required.
That being said these things actually run good in the smaller fords with lots of low end torque and good high speed hp.
@@brucecooley4170 the engine you describe used a completely different open deck block to the engine in the video. Ford could no longer use the better Mazda MZR designed closed deck block, and were forced to redesign the block using an open deck design with machined slits between the bores for cooling - It's the machined slits between the bores that resulted in head gasket sealing and integrity issues. The closed desk Mazda block had no such issues.
Side 2 is the good side. A vert well made inspection port.
I had a 2014 all-wheel drive titanium 2.0 and it lasted till 137,000 mi and still it had no issues except I had to replace the turbo because on those early years they use soft metal for the bushings on the wastegate linkage and so it would actually start leaking exhaust gas going around the turbo after a while and you couldn't make boost but other than that it was perfect when the guy ran a red light and totaled it at 137,000. As long as you do the maintenance now with the PTU you need to do that every 30,000 mi cuz it doesn't have enough fluid And also the rear diff you have to do like every 30 or 50,000 mi. Mi but if you do your maintenance and don't treat it like a piece of s*** they'll last a good long time
Who needs a 2.0 turbo in a little Escape. Maybe in an Explorer....
@@Chris_de_S drive a 1.5 or one of those 2.5 naturally aspirated and then drive a 2.0 and then tell me what you think
This reminds me of the Mazda/Ford Duratech motors with the diamond coated washer to keep the timing. Turns out they don't really stay in place and the timing can get out of sync and destroy the engine.
My carnal thirst for mechanical destruction can never be sated.
Don't judge me. 😊
So much to enjoy and learn here, even the comments are educational.
I would love to see you tear down a 2.4 SRT4 that came in the 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT with the aluminum intake. If you can get your hands on one. Great video as usual.
I have a 2017 2.5L that just crapped out, turns out it was number 3 piston oil scraper crapped out scoured side of cylinder, the entire rest on the motor looked like new, 77k miles😢
That hole in the intake side is for a breather so uncle Rodney can breathe better
One of them fancy, Bluetooth con rod
They are factory engineered to go BOOOOOOM!
There is a lot of people saying that this engine is the same as the focus st is that true
It sure is!
I have a rental Explorer limited in my driveway with the 2.3 ecoboost and 10 speed auto. Its sort of a stripped model, but is one of the most unpleasant vehicles Ive driven for a while. Engine is raspy and the boost is weirdly peaky, and the transmission just generally doesn’t know what its supposed to be doing.
These high stressed little turbo motors are just disasters waiting to happen. Thank God we still have a few companies like Mazda making normally aspirated engines coupled to traditional transmissions that just get the job done. At least for now.
I will never buy a car with a turbo in it if I can help it. They put an immense amount of stress on the engine especially 4 cylinders. From day 1 it's a ticking time bomb. They will almost never live as long as their naturally aspirated counterparts.
@@LMG3000-s8fplenty of diesels disagree
@@imBriz That's a diesel though, which is a completely different thing built like a brick shithouse to withstand diesel pressures. Not a gas engine.
@@GeneCash fyi turbo engines are built to withstand turbo pressures
@@imBriz A lot of modern aluminium block & aluminium head diesel engines are not great. At the very least, many of them have issues with the cylinder heads cracking.
Your love for water pumps is apparent
Any EcoBoost is ecofail
Looking at the damage at the start, the bell housing damage is the clue, and that the cylinder that imploded was there. The crank normally drives the transmission, but there the opposite happened. The transmission locked up at a very high speed. The bell housing took the shock waves and shattered as we could see. I would hazard that the girdle also broke apart and the crank jumped, which caused that piston to hit the head and shatter the rod. Whatever froze the transmission (maybe that is what the young driver had not checked the oil on?) freed up, and within seconds the broken parts destroyed the block as the car rolled to the shoulder, leaving a trail of parts and oil. That would be why we didn't see much debris in the upper part of the engine. Not hydrolock, not timing, not engine oil starvation.
For having 160,000 miles it looks surprisingly clean so it clearly received all its oil changes and then some...likely a freak metal fatigue issue...likely had it to the floor and it let go...