Rachel Medina I glad you like it. It’s a great splice that is pretty simple and locks well. I use this splice on the human end of my leashes. On the dog end I’ll use a regular eye splice, where you basically bury the rope in the middle. I then use a whipping right behind the eye to keep the splice put. I mostly make a British style slip lead. The tail of the splice can be lengthened to fit your dogs neck size. This give a few benefits. One, it makes the rope larger to spread out load better to prevent injury. Two, making the tail surpass the dogs neck diameter prevents the leash from binding up. I also taper the tail on my eye splice to make sure it doesn’t hang up. I install my ring or dog snap on the eye as you do then. For heavy chewers or plain insane strength look into Samson Ropes Amsteel Blue. 5/16” is rated at around 10000 pound break strength and is a direct size replacement for cable. It is expensive but it’s great for a slip lead as well due to the ropes smooth and slippery surface.
@@chubbybowhunter8192 you should seriously consider making a video and sharing. I have a hunting dog and am trying to picture what you are saying. Sounds awesome.
iamdjsluggo I will consider doing so. Not really into making videos but I may just give it a go. I only use Samson Amsteel Blue rope in 5/16” and a small climbing ring to make my slip leads. Brummel splice on the human end and a regular eye splice with a tapered tail in the dog end. I make the tail long enough to go the circumference of the dogs neck so the ring doesn’t bind. Leave the eye just large enough to make a larks head on the ring. The regular eye splice gets whipped to keep it from coming loose. Samson has instructions online.
Er, does it really need that lock there like that or is there a way to smooth it out? I feel like I've seen some videos creating a tight splice that turns out so smooth you can't tell it's there.
Twisted rope can be spliced easily enough, but braided rope takes a bit more skill unless you are using hollow core rope and doing it like in this video. Another solution might be to just sew the loop into the rope with a hand sewing awl and waxed thread like you might use when sewing heavy nylon / poly webbing (straps). If you sew it tight enough, it looks pretty smooth. Most sewing machines are for normal thickness clothing and do not work well on multiple layers of denim (like in the crotch area of jeans), much less the thickness of rope or multiple nylon / poly straps. The thread used is too thin plus the needles break all too often. The sewing awl though has a fairly large diameter "needle" that is more like a *nail* that has had a hole put in the front of it for the thread to go through. Now, if you have a cobbler's sewing machine, it can go through material this thick fairly easily, but most people don't have one of them. The non-electric ones are not that expensive though -- around $150, IIRC... I bought one a couple of years ago and I find I use it for a lot of things that I used to use the hand sewing awl for previously. Sometimes though, it is just a small repair (like for a strap on my wife's purse) and it's quicker to do it with the awl than to pull out the cobbler's sewing machine.
Boa noite, muito interessante seu trabalho. Sabe me dizer como consigo esta ferramenta que parece uma caneta, por onde passam a corda, ou vocês a vende? No aguardo.Muito obrigado
Why didn't you guys put the snap hook at the other end working with the same method on the swivel and leaving the other end as a handle??? Makes more sense
for sure.. but in that way, you can change the snap hook easily, in case it is broken ;) or you have a brass hook on the dogs leash and want a silver one? just change it..
Coming from someone with two working bulldog breed dogs known as pit bulls, I don't reckon this kind of material is a good material for me to use. Pit bulls are strong working dogs designed as working/purpose dogs for large game to be able to work, hunt, handle, and grip onto large game on the farm, ranch, or on the hunt. They have a lot of energy, drive, grit, power, and ability to pull that would work right through material like this. Material like this might be good for something like sledding, but it would not work well for me or other folks as a leash, tie-out, and definitely not a long-term tether. They would pull this thing apart if they don't chew through it first, and I would be looking for something else to tether or walk them with. And I would imagine it's the same for many other kinds of dogs too. Even dogs that are not as powerful or high drive as bulldogs could make short work of this if they chew on it. Dogs are natural chewers. They love to chew on materials like this. The average dog would be able to chew through ropes like this. The material that has worked much better than other materials for me are chains. Chains are an inexpensive, durable, convenient, and long-term material to use for leashes, tie-outs, pulling, or tethers that dogs can also not chew through. That is probably why dog-powered sports like weight pull use chains and not ropes. And chains can be adjusted to be longer or shorter, and can be easily turned into a walking leash with two quick links and a swivel snap. Just make a loop by putting a quick link on the very last link of the chain and make a loop large enough for your fingers to go into (just like a loop on a dog leash). When you have a size that fits, connect the quick link on the very last link to that area link on the chain that makes the loop and then tighten the quick link. The place a quick link on a swivel snap, connect it to the opposite end of the chain, and tighten that quick link as well. Before you start, make sure the chain is long or short enough for you by stretching it out. If it's meant for being a leash for walking, then it shouldn't be much longer than the average walking leash.
Static Surge The material works great. They mainly use this stuff for sled dogs. Who are strong working dogs as well. If you get good materials of the polypro hollow they cannot “work right through” the material. I agree with the fact that they CAN be chewed through. But if you’re walking, mushing, or they are working in general they should not be chewing on it they should be working, plus you should be right there supervising them. This should not be used as a tie-out (they never said this should be used as a tie-out) because the dog with be left un-attended and could chew on it and a chain would be best. Chains would not work for mushing (which if you actually watched the video and listed to MUSHER Bonnie from the Door County DOG SLED this is for sled dogs.) Chain is heavy and when you have 6 to 8 dogs pulling that’s a lot of chain weight. Plus chains - freeze, rust, are heavy and when you need to use A LOT of it, it does become costly.
Jamie Barker I'm glad it seems to work out for you. As long as it works out, that's really all that matters. But I reckon I'll be sticking with a chain. Though I'm be pretty sure there are dogs that would be able to, by just pulling hard enough, go through one of these ropes pretty quick, it is very clear that they would chew right through it in no time at all. I don't know about some folks, but I want whatever is securing or keeping my dogs at my side to be something that a dog cannot and will not chew threw if given the chance. There are times when folks might need to tie their dog up to something for a while even on a walk, and there are even some dogs that will chew on leashes when they are being walked, but it's not that common. One of the things I like about chains is that you don't need to attend to or supervise a dog on as much when they are on them. Chains are pretty durable and long lasting. They aren't something you have to constantly keep buying. The right chain for the right job can many times last a lifetime. Definitely cost effective in the long run. Actually, people can find chains for free sometimes or find they already have some. I think they are more convenient. You can make them longer with ease if you need to by just adding a quick link or two to another chain. Though I reckon you are right when it comes to sledding and that these ropes would probably be a better match there, not all chains are heavy. Chains can still be durable without being large tractor chain sized. And people do you chains for pulling purposes as well from cars, to tractors, to weight. Most sled dogs when sledding are probably used on something like what we see in this video, but most sled dogs are kept on a chain when housed. In this case, lighter weight ropes are not chosen over security and durability. I believe that for most situations the chain is a mighty fine material to use. That includes walking dogs.
If you have to have something that is strong enough to hold back a bull or Grizzly bear then I suggest you spend your time training. I have a 134 pound German Shepherd and my little girl walks it around other dogs. Socialization and time!!
Nigga why'd you watch the video just to complain about the rope she's using damn. To me it seems like you just like showing off your Bulldog knowledge, it's good that you know about the game APBT but it's not relevant to this video, obviously this isn't a tie out, just for walks...
Bulldogs are NOT APBTs. I have 4 actual working GSDs. I have and use this type of material for leashes. No issues at all. Mind you my dogs are actually trained and don't pull. Only time is when they are Tracking.
josh h Even though I am someone more about how the leash functions and its durability than how it looks, I reckon you're right. Coming from someone with two working bulldog breed dogs known as APBTs, I can say that I don't reckon this kind of material is a good material for me to us. Like I said, I have two bulldogs (APBTs). APBTs are strong working dogs designed as working/purpose dogs for large game to be able to work, hunt, handle, and grip onto large game on the farm, ranch, or on the hunt. They have a lot of stamina, drive, power, and ability to pull that would work right through material like this. Material like this might be good for something like sledding, but it would not work well for me or other folks as a leash, tie-out, and definitely not a long-term tether. They would pull this thing apart if they don't chew through it first, and I would be looking for something else to tether or walk them with. And I would imagine it's the same for many other kinds of dogs too. Even dogs that are not as powerful or high drive as bulldogs could make short work of this if they chew on it. Dogs are natural chewers. They love to chew on materials like this. The average dog would be able to chew through ropes like this. The material that has worked much better than other materials for me are chains. Chains are an inexpensive, durable, convenient, and long-term material to use for leashes, tie-outs, pulling, or tethers that dogs can also not chew through. That is probably why dog-powered sports like weight pull use chains and not ropes. And chains can be adjusted to be longer or shorter, and can be easily turned into a walking leash with two quick links and a swivel snap. Just make a loop by putting a quick link on the very last link of the chain and make a loop large enough for your fingers to go into (just like a loop on a dog leash). When you have a size that fits, connect the quick link on the very last link to that area link on the chain that makes the loop and then tighten the quick link. The place a quick ling on a swivel snap, connect it to the opposite end of the chain, and tighten that quick link as well. Before you start, make sure the chain is long or short enough for you by stretching it out. If it's meant for being a leash for walking, then it shouldn't be much longer than the average walking leash.
Static Surge The material works great. They mainly use this stuff for sled dogs. Who are strong working dogs as well. If you get good materials of the polypro hollow they cannot “work right through” the material. I agree with the fact that they CAN be chewed through. But if you’re walking, mushing, or they are working in general they should not be chewing on it they should be working, plus you should be right there supervising them. This should not be used as a tie-out (they never said this should be used as a tie-out) because the dog with be left un-attended and could chew on it and a chain would be best. Chains would not work for mushing (which if you actually watched the video and listed to MUSHER Bonnie from the Door County DOG SLED this is for sled dogs.) Chain is heavy and when you have 6 to 8 dogs pulling that’s a lot of chain weight. Plus chains - freeze, rust, are heavy and when you need to use A LOT of it, it does become costly.
Jamie Barker I'm glad it seems to work out for you. As long as it works out, that's really all that matters. But I reckon I'll be sticking with a chain. Though I'm be pretty sure there are dogs that would be able to, by just pulling hard enough, go through one of these ropes pretty quick, it is very clear that they would chew right through it in no time at all. I don't know about some folks, but I want whatever is securing or keeping my dogs at my side to be something that a dog cannot and will not chew threw if given the chance. There are times when folks might need to tie their dog up to something for a while even on a walk, and there are even some dogs that will chew on leashes when they are being walked, but it's not that common. One of the things I like about chains is that you don't need to attend to or supervise a dog on as much when they are on them. Chains are pretty durable and long lasting. They aren't something you have to constantly keep buying. The right chain for the right job can many times last a lifetime. Definitely cost effective in the long run. Actually, people can find chains for free sometimes or find they already have some. I think they are more convenient. You can make them longer with ease if you need to by just adding a quick link or two to another chain. Though I reckon you are right when it comes to sledding and that these ropes would probably be a better match there, not all chains are heavy. Chains can still be durable without being large tractor chain sized. And people do you chains for pulling purposes as well from cars, to tractors, to weight. Most sled dogs when sledding are probably used on something like what we see in this video, but most sled dogs are kept on a chain when housed. In this case, lighter weight ropes are not chosen over security and durability. I believe that for most situations the chain is a mighty fine material to use. That includes walking dogs.
George Vasquez I wouldn't say that. I'm not the smartest of fellows, but I do have the sense to know when something has not worked, isn't right for me to use, and understand when I should not try or continue to do what doesn't work for me while at the same time being able to find and make something that can, will, and does work out for me and stick with it.
Dont recommend this material of tether for any type of dog that has chewing tendencies or any kind of puppy lol it’s loose braid crap hollow nylon. They can chew this shit real quick. Also bad teaching as far as the threading goes. I build these everyday. This seems like a sponsor pleasing video. U seem to have good intentions though.
finally can make my own leashes.Thanks💪
Why brass over aluminum carabiner ?
We're do you find the rope and hollow Cure
damn it came out looking awesome!
Why couldn't you have put the hook on first? Just curious.
What kind of rope is that?
Not bagging on your work but check out the Brummel splice. It will lay much nicer than yours and have a higher load rating as well.
Thanks for this suggestion, you are completely right. I did 3 lines yesterday for the first time using a Brummel splice and it looks great.
Rachel Medina I glad you like it. It’s a great splice that is pretty simple and locks well. I use this splice on the human end of my leashes. On the dog end I’ll use a regular eye splice, where you basically bury the rope in the middle. I then use a whipping right behind the eye to keep the splice put.
I mostly make a British style slip lead. The tail of the splice can be lengthened to fit your dogs neck size. This give a few benefits. One, it makes the rope larger to spread out load better to prevent injury. Two, making the tail surpass the dogs neck diameter prevents the leash from binding up. I also taper the tail on my eye splice to make sure it doesn’t hang up.
I install my ring or dog snap on the eye as you do then.
For heavy chewers or plain insane strength look into Samson Ropes Amsteel Blue. 5/16” is rated at around 10000 pound break strength and is a direct size replacement for cable. It is expensive but it’s great for a slip lead as well due to the ropes smooth and slippery surface.
@@chubbybowhunter8192 you should seriously consider making a video and sharing. I have a hunting dog and am trying to picture what you are saying. Sounds awesome.
iamdjsluggo I will consider doing so. Not really into making videos but I may just give it a go. I only use Samson Amsteel Blue rope in 5/16” and a small climbing ring to make my slip leads. Brummel splice on the human end and a regular eye splice with a tapered tail in the dog end. I make the tail long enough to go the circumference of the dogs neck so the ring doesn’t bind. Leave the eye just large enough to make a larks head on the ring. The regular eye splice gets whipped to keep it from coming loose. Samson has instructions online.
why does the cord have to be hollow core?
2:50
Er, does it really need that lock there like that or is there a way to smooth it out? I feel like I've seen some videos creating a tight splice that turns out so smooth you can't tell it's there.
Twisted rope can be spliced easily enough, but braided rope takes a bit more skill unless you are using hollow core rope and doing it like in this video. Another solution might be to just sew the loop into the rope with a hand sewing awl and waxed thread like you might use when sewing heavy nylon / poly webbing (straps). If you sew it tight enough, it looks pretty smooth. Most sewing machines are for normal thickness clothing and do not work well on multiple layers of denim (like in the crotch area of jeans), much less the thickness of rope or multiple nylon / poly straps. The thread used is too thin plus the needles break all too often. The sewing awl though has a fairly large diameter "needle" that is more like a *nail* that has had a hole put in the front of it for the thread to go through. Now, if you have a cobbler's sewing machine, it can go through material this thick fairly easily, but most people don't have one of them. The non-electric ones are not that expensive though -- around $150, IIRC... I bought one a couple of years ago and I find I use it for a lot of things that I used to use the hand sewing awl for previously. Sometimes though, it is just a small repair (like for a strap on my wife's purse) and it's quicker to do it with the awl than to pull out the cobbler's sewing machine.
Is there another name for that metal thing that you call a FID because I can't find it anywhere
look on line call rope fid
Boa noite, muito interessante seu trabalho. Sabe me dizer como consigo esta ferramenta que parece uma caneta, por onde passam a corda, ou vocês a vende? No aguardo.Muito obrigado
Better way is called a locked brummel or brummel lock splice.
What do you call that metal thing that you use to insert the rope with? Is it called fit?
It is called a FID. It can be found in hardware stores and also in marine stores.
Thank you!
+eddiemoobeaer Hi, I'm from Ecuador, you can tell me how is called exactly that rope, please
What is the name of the chord??
Braided core less nylon
What is the rope called that you need?
Paracord.
thank you god bless
Why didn't you guys put the snap hook at the other end working with the same method on the swivel and leaving the other end as a handle??? Makes more sense
for sure.. but in that way, you can change the snap hook easily, in case it is broken ;) or you have a brass hook on the dogs leash and want a silver one? just change it..
where do u get em from
where do you get those fit needle things???? can i get them at the craft store or where did you get yours.
They're cut off aluminum single point knitting needles.
if u look up rope supplies most of them sale them on there or u can buy them one ebay amazon samson rope sales them i belive
What about that puppy she almost laid on the edge of the table?
The brown nosed one
Coming from someone with two working bulldog breed dogs known as pit bulls, I don't reckon this kind of material is a good material for me to use. Pit bulls are strong working dogs designed as working/purpose dogs for large game to be able to work, hunt, handle, and grip onto large game on the farm, ranch, or on the hunt. They have a lot of energy, drive, grit, power, and ability to pull that would work right through material like this. Material like this might be good for something like sledding, but it would not work well for me or other folks as a leash, tie-out, and definitely not a long-term tether. They would pull this thing apart if they don't chew through it first, and I would be looking for something else to tether or walk them with. And I would imagine it's the same for many other kinds of dogs too. Even dogs that are not as powerful or high drive as bulldogs could make short work of this if they chew on it. Dogs are natural chewers. They love to chew on materials like this. The average dog would be able to chew through ropes like this. The material that has worked much better than other materials for me are chains. Chains are an inexpensive, durable, convenient, and long-term material to use for leashes, tie-outs, pulling, or tethers that dogs can also not chew through. That is probably why dog-powered sports like weight pull use chains and not ropes. And chains can be adjusted to be longer or shorter, and can be easily turned into a walking leash with two quick links and a swivel snap. Just make a loop by putting a quick link on the very last link of the chain and make a loop large enough for your fingers to go into (just like a loop on a dog leash). When you have a size that fits, connect the quick link on the very last link to that area link on the chain that makes the loop and then tighten the quick link. The place a quick link on a swivel snap, connect it to the opposite end of the chain, and tighten that quick link as well. Before you start, make sure the chain is long or short enough for you by stretching it out. If it's meant for being a leash for walking, then it shouldn't be much longer than the average walking leash.
Static Surge
The material works great. They mainly use this stuff for
sled dogs. Who are strong working dogs as well. If you get good materials of
the polypro hollow they cannot “work right through” the material. I agree with
the fact that they CAN be chewed through. But if you’re walking, mushing, or
they are working in general they should not be chewing on it they should be
working, plus you should be right there supervising them. This should not be used as a tie-out (they
never said this should be used as a tie-out) because the dog with be left
un-attended and could chew on it and a chain would be best. Chains would not
work for mushing (which if you actually watched the video and listed to MUSHER
Bonnie from the Door County DOG SLED this is for sled dogs.) Chain is heavy and
when you have 6 to 8 dogs pulling that’s a lot of chain weight. Plus chains -
freeze, rust, are heavy and when you need to use A LOT of it, it does become
costly.
Jamie Barker I'm glad it seems to work out for you. As long as it works out, that's really all that matters. But I reckon I'll be sticking with a chain. Though I'm be pretty sure there are dogs that would be able to, by just pulling hard enough, go through one of these ropes pretty quick, it is very clear that they would chew right through it in no time at all. I don't know about some folks, but I want whatever is securing or keeping my dogs at my side to be something that a dog cannot and will not chew threw if given the chance. There are times when folks might need to tie their dog up to something for a while even on a walk, and there are even some dogs that will chew on leashes when they are being walked, but it's not that common. One of the things I like about chains is that you don't need to attend to or supervise a dog on as much when they are on them. Chains are pretty durable and long lasting. They aren't something you have to constantly keep buying. The right chain for the right job can many times last a lifetime. Definitely cost effective in the long run. Actually, people can find chains for free sometimes or find they already have some. I think they are more convenient. You can make them longer with ease if you need to by just adding a quick link or two to another chain. Though I reckon you are right when it comes to sledding and that these ropes would probably be a better match there, not all chains are heavy. Chains can still be durable without being large tractor chain sized. And people do you chains for pulling purposes as well from cars, to tractors, to weight. Most sled dogs when sledding are probably used on something like what we see in this video, but most sled dogs are kept on a chain when housed. In this case, lighter weight ropes are not chosen over security and durability. I believe that for most situations the chain is a mighty fine material to use. That includes walking dogs.
If you have to have something that is strong enough to hold back a bull or Grizzly bear then I suggest you spend your time training. I have a 134 pound German Shepherd and my little girl walks it around other dogs. Socialization and time!!
Nigga why'd you watch the video just to complain about the rope she's using damn. To me it seems like you just like showing off your Bulldog knowledge, it's good that you know about the game APBT but it's not relevant to this video, obviously this isn't a tie out, just for walks...
Bulldogs are NOT APBTs. I have 4 actual working GSDs. I have and use this type of material for leashes. No issues at all. Mind you my dogs are actually trained and don't pull. Only time is when they are Tracking.
can you make a video of how to make a goat leash??
Easy, Marke Warnke has tutorials at packgoats.com
OMFG. A minute and a quarter to start making the fuckin' leash.
tenho enterece em compra os tubus
بدي اسالك كيف بدي اعمل الكلب السير حزام يراسه
I'm sorry but that looks like crap. The design is crap. Even if it works, it's not professional looking.
josh h Even though I am someone more about how the leash functions and its durability than how it looks, I reckon you're right. Coming from someone with two working bulldog breed dogs known as APBTs, I can say that I don't reckon this kind of material is a good material for me to us. Like I said, I have two bulldogs (APBTs). APBTs are strong working dogs designed as working/purpose dogs for large game to be able to work, hunt, handle, and grip onto large game on the farm, ranch, or on the hunt. They have a lot of stamina, drive, power, and ability to pull that would work right through material like this. Material like this might be good for something like sledding, but it would not work well for me or other folks as a leash, tie-out, and definitely not a long-term tether. They would pull this thing apart if they don't chew through it first, and I would be looking for something else to tether or walk them with. And I would imagine it's the same for many other kinds of dogs too. Even dogs that are not as powerful or high drive as bulldogs could make short work of this if they chew on it. Dogs are natural chewers. They love to chew on materials like this. The average dog would be able to chew through ropes like this. The material that has worked much better than other materials for me are chains. Chains are an inexpensive, durable, convenient, and long-term material to use for leashes, tie-outs, pulling, or tethers that dogs can also not chew through. That is probably why dog-powered sports like weight pull use chains and not ropes. And chains can be adjusted to be longer or shorter, and can be easily turned into a walking leash with two quick links and a swivel snap. Just make a loop by putting a quick link on the very last link of the chain and make a loop large enough for your fingers to go into (just like a loop on a dog leash). When you have a size that fits, connect the quick link on the very last link to that area link on the chain that makes the loop and then tighten the quick link. The place a quick ling on a swivel snap, connect it to the opposite end of the chain, and tighten that quick link as well. Before you start, make sure the chain is long or short enough for you by stretching it out. If it's meant for being a leash for walking, then it shouldn't be much longer than the average walking leash.
Static Surge
The material works great. They mainly use this stuff for
sled dogs. Who are strong working dogs as well. If you get good materials of
the polypro hollow they cannot “work right through” the material. I agree with
the fact that they CAN be chewed through. But if you’re walking, mushing, or
they are working in general they should not be chewing on it they should be
working, plus you should be right there supervising them. This should not be used as a tie-out (they
never said this should be used as a tie-out) because the dog with be left
un-attended and could chew on it and a chain would be best. Chains would not
work for mushing (which if you actually watched the video and listed to MUSHER
Bonnie from the Door County DOG SLED this is for sled dogs.) Chain is heavy and
when you have 6 to 8 dogs pulling that’s a lot of chain weight. Plus chains -
freeze, rust, are heavy and when you need to use A LOT of it, it does become
costly.
Jamie Barker I'm glad it seems to work out for you. As long as it works out, that's really all that matters. But I reckon I'll be sticking with a chain. Though I'm be pretty sure there are dogs that would be able to, by just pulling hard enough, go through one of these ropes pretty quick, it is very clear that they would chew right through it in no time at all. I don't know about some folks, but I want whatever is securing or keeping my dogs at my side to be something that a dog cannot and will not chew threw if given the chance. There are times when folks might need to tie their dog up to something for a while even on a walk, and there are even some dogs that will chew on leashes when they are being walked, but it's not that common. One of the things I like about chains is that you don't need to attend to or supervise a dog on as much when they are on them. Chains are pretty durable and long lasting. They aren't something you have to constantly keep buying. The right chain for the right job can many times last a lifetime. Definitely cost effective in the long run. Actually, people can find chains for free sometimes or find they already have some. I think they are more convenient. You can make them longer with ease if you need to by just adding a quick link or two to another chain. Though I reckon you are right when it comes to sledding and that these ropes would probably be a better match there, not all chains are heavy. Chains can still be durable without being large tractor chain sized. And people do you chains for pulling purposes as well from cars, to tractors, to weight. Most sled dogs when sledding are probably used on something like what we see in this video, but most sled dogs are kept on a chain when housed. In this case, lighter weight ropes are not chosen over security and durability. I believe that for most situations the chain is a mighty fine material to use. That includes walking dogs.
+Static Surge not too bright are you. LOL
George Vasquez I wouldn't say that. I'm not the smartest of fellows, but I do have the sense to know when something has not worked, isn't right for me to use, and understand when I should not try or continue to do what doesn't work for me while at the same time being able to find and make something that can, will, and does work out for me and stick with it.
Eso que ?
ഗുഡ് വീഡിയോ
imma be honest i don't have a dog
👍👍👍😁
جحفلي
😨😨😨😨😨😨😨😨😨 no no nooooooo is not correct!
It would be better, if you guys learn proper splicing before posting that crap you do, go to Samson rope and learn how to do it.
Dont recommend this material of tether for any type of dog that has chewing tendencies or any kind of puppy lol it’s loose braid crap hollow nylon. They can chew this shit real quick. Also bad teaching as far as the threading goes. I build these everyday. This seems like a sponsor pleasing video. U seem to have good intentions though.
Where's your video?