The #1 Trick to UNLEASH your amplifier's true potential.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
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In this video I show you the #1 trick to unleash your amplifier's true potential and explain why all three of these amplifiers failed to make power on the amp dyno.
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Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
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He keeps raising the price. I bought mine for $129 2 years ago. Was 149 a few months back, now it is $169. I guess its got a good rep so that's why. It pushes my Skar EVL 15 nicely.
@@administratorperson3272 it's a nice amp
Dude, Thank you so much for the shout out. That stuff helps me more than anything my friend!
You bet!
You could be the only guy out there testing on the bench and real-world output installed in the truck. Nice.
Hopefully people find it hellpful.
Good Deal, I deal with Big Battery for my ham and solar gear! I will try a Battery Hook up for some extra Batteries! Good job and keep going forward!
One old school alternator hack (for pickups and SUV's at least) is to source a replacement unit for the 3/4 or 1 ton equivalent model truck equipped with the same engine family as your truck or SUV. Most 3/4 and 1 ton models have an optional high-output alternator package, often rated at 220 amps or more. Of course there are plenty of other options out there nowadays, but this truck is still viable for simple upgrades and cost effectiveness.
Fortunately Mechman had a bolt on 320a unit in stock.
Another great video. Summarized and simple 👌
Thanks! I need to grab some plywood this week a build a sub box next!
I have a jp23v2 and a jp95 hooked up to a glowe voltage series 3 battery. First thing I did before pushing my system was install a 310 amp alternator and big 3. Electrical is the single most important thing with these high power amps.
Remember everyone it takes power to make power, if your electrical isn’t up to snuff your total output will be less as the delivery system can’t supply the correct amount of power to reach the high output ratings stated by the manufacturer or shown by independent testers like diy audio guy and derek big d wiz, remember some amps could potentially put out more then they’re rated which is why it’s always good practice to upgrade your electrical when pushing high wattage subs with high wattage amplifiers, this also includes not skimping on the power and ground cables, smaller gauge power wires on amps they weren’t designed for can spell for trouble something as small as lower power output or you end up exceeding the amperage capacity that specific power and ground can handle causing heating issues even down to burning the wire up entirely from too much current, I’ve personally found that out my self years ago never made that mistake again!
Yep.
Great video, one test you could do is an in vehicle test. Just use the resistors as your load instead of speakers.
I have thought about doing that.
@@AT-wl9yq, it will give you a worse case load and will be a great comparison to the companies specs.
I have that same power supply but the 75A version. Good enough for bench testing amps and other equipment
For most people at 75 amp power supply is more than enough.
Happy Thanksgiving Justin
Great video 📸
Happy thanksgiving!
I like the new updated style of the 1000a jag35 pcb bus, however it only contains 2 oz of copper that’s not much. Weigh a copper ring terminal and see. Yes I know that it works, I have made several headway banks. The pcb board is basically wrapped in copper foil.
It's not "2 oz of copper", it's "2 oz copper".
You make great videos.
THanks!
With a lithium battery alone you can’t run more than about 1200 watts cleanly. With my JL hd1200.1 I run an antigravity battery and my alternator is 140amps from the factory and I have zero light dimming. With a regular xs4700 I had lights dimming. Voltage doesn’t sag more than .5 volts but it’s still sags.
My system uses a stock 180A alt and it just loves its job. Im pushing 13k watts btw.
The trick is bigger batteries and the use of supercaps. I have 256Ah setup of headway cells and 3x Banks of maxwell caps. All my alt has to do is charge the caps and slowly keep the bat banks topped off. My system runs at 14.4v and will only droop to 14v on max volume of bass music. Droppinhz has a 120 amp power supply/charger i use while tuning and it too has no issue keeping up for when im tuning and not wasting gas. A new alt isnt always the answer your finding out. Add another superbeast and 2 banks of Maxwells and see if the power supplieson your bench dont handle the load fine and your droop will stabilize. Mine never seen 12v even on bats alone.
Id suggest buying an Ipxus cap bank cheap and replace your cars battery spot and run what i suggest and you can do without a new alt.
I have a 100A alt. What do I need to run a 3K rms amp on it? I comfortably run a 1.5K amp right now but probably getting max 1000 watts. All stock electrical.
Taramps and stetsom have some really nice power supplies that go up to 300 amps..i use 2 of the 120 amp power supplies on my home set up
I picked up a pair of PowerBass power supplies, I can reliably test up to about 1,800 watts depending on how efficient the amp is.
@@DIYAudioGuy nice!! I have not seen power bass ones before..I run 4 1000.1 diamond audio monblocks, a audio control 300x4 and a pioneer double din on my 2 power supplies..6 15 american bass XO, 2 Skar EVL 18s, and 2 american bass godfather series 8" horn drivers..Love car audio in home!! Great video bro!
I decided to go ahead and install a mechman 370 and an ioxus ultra cap to go with my odyssey extreme battery in my Camaro and not have to worry about electrical anymore. Should be plenty for a JP23v2 with some overhead. That 23v2 seems to hit around 3500 watts so you’re going to need a bit more juice on that bench 😂
Yep!
Hey finally getting into some basshead stuff! Lol. Those PCB Buss bars are trash tho thehre fine for people doing low current solar storage etc. Need to get some Illcustomz or Jims Machineworx aluminum buss bars for car audio use. Also didn't notice if you did or not you need a balancer for those cells as well.
I will check them out.
That's what Hifi Vega did when he tested the Slapz Audio Shock 8k. He had a 100amp power supply and only used one run if 1/0 per power connection instead of the recommended dual 1/0 inputs, so it never made rated. I tried to explain that to him, but all I got was ridicule. Is what it is, but I know better. Thanks for this video. It justifies my opinion.
I don't ever plan to test anything that big simply because of the expense needed to generate that kind of power on the test bench.
@@DIYAudioGuy he had a SMD with a insufficient power supply. 100amp power supply. Plus his testing started at 14.4v and as the test took place the voltage dropped in the 13s, so he justified the output in the low 13s. Derrick starts the voltage in the low 15s or high 14s so the ending voltage is closer to the specifications of the amplifiers on ratings. Gets expensive to upgrade power supply in any situation!
i would run 240 to that test bench. skip the 110. you can also get double brekers. if you read inside your panel cover it will tell you the total # of circuits it can handle. this will be more than the physical openings.
Good advice!
what is feeding the line in on the amp? maybe clipping already there....
Currently using an old cell phone, it shows clean on the O-Scope all the way to max volume.
I would source some ultra capacitors with a power limit for the bench in mind, take the max power you plan to test in kW and that's how many banks you need to minimize voltage drop on tests. You can get by with way less but 1kW per bank would make tests very consistent. Then all you need is a fuse block to be able to scale the fusing to the device under test. With a basic understanding of circuit analysis we know the voltage lags the current in a capacitor, whereas a battery relies on chemistry where the current lags the voltage. Meaning you get current instantly in a capacitor before the voltage drops and the exact opposite in a battery.
How did you hook up the oscilloscope?
Headway is great but you could definitely use a different chemistry when you get the funds and power alot off just the bank for test
I think headway is great for in-car use. It's a fairly stable chemistry and it matches well with your existing battery. But I think it's fairly safe to conclude that this bank is not going to give me the juice I need to test a big amplifiers.
You should get you a fairly large bank of ultra capacitors to wire in after the headway bank..they will supply the amp with the burst power they need allowing your headways and power supply to keep up! Just a thought!
I'm going to move this battery bank to the truck and then explore batteries that can operate at higher voltage just for the test bench.
Yup I added my headways to my ram and haven't looked back! Very optimal lithium for everyday use and with a decent alternator, they are all you need for a daily system. Spim08HP are what I would use for your test bench 😁 BEASTY tough as nails! Thanks DIY AUDIO GUY! I've watched you for years!!
I feel the caps should be run like this: ALT-Caps-amps-bats your fastest power delivery will be from the caps and then the bats.
LFP ( LIthium cells like these ) require Constant voltage Constant Current power supply aka CHARGER. short name is CC-CV mode to recharge. But your power supply dont seems to be constant current.
I will look into that.
@@DIYAudioGuy Don't waste your time, CC-CV is a lab bench supply mode of operation where a constant voltage and current are set as limits, the supply will lower the output voltage below the CV setting in order to maintain a set current limit (CC). It's great when designing or debugging a circuit but not applicable to your situation because the max charge current of that lithium bank is higher than the output from the power supplies.
@@str8upkickyaindanuts289 but the power supply that dont have CC mode an will just cut! Which is not good and not usefull.. Better have a regulated power supply with CV and CC mode than a power supply that cut and fall in hicup mode all the time! You can not parallel a unregulated power supply to a lithium battery without problem or danger. It require CC-CV.. All lithium battery require that. that,s it
How do you like the D4S JP8 4 channel
You should check out some ct sound stuff budget friendly and makes great power and subs are a beast
CT sounds knows where to find me.
Wonder if a stiffening cap would filter out that noise if in fact it's coming from your power supplies and/or lithium bank.
I use the exact same power supply on an 1,100-W system and have no problems. That is however set bifold each alone so I'm probably still shy of what the answer actually capable of.
I'm sure you already know the following info:
I started my bench decades ago with wet 12v batteries. Testing dc devices, running inverters. I moved to golf cat batteries, as automotive and marine just wouldn't maintain long enough. I then moved to 6v and 8v gc batteries in series. Only charging to 15.5, which is a bit low, but most items will run there, and resting voltage was about 14.9 anyway. This year I moved to lithium. Headway, gushen, then lishen. Lishen is the strongest of the bunch in lifpo4. Still, you have a 13.3 resting. Under heavy load, even with power supply(s), it's going to dip. I am currently running spim08 (low budget), charging on the low side at 15.1v. With an old astron transformer 50a supply as backup set to 15.1, rarely do I see below 14.4 under load. Probably 48-64ah of spim will take care of your needs in low budget fashion. For the vehicles out there, maximum charge voltage is the #1 most critical thing choosing lithium. Imo 14.7v and down, lishen is the most effective bang4buck. Diy. There are a couple of companies with turn key batteries 14.7 and under, glowevoltage.com and trunkthunderlithium.com. Please advise your viewers NO LITHIUM IS UNDER HOOD SAFE. Great video as always, sorry for long winded comment.
Honestly bud I'll be for real with you. For the price your going to pay a electrician you really should have a dedicated vehicle for your tests lol. For example my personal vehicle a kia sorento. Is factory alternator, big 3 0 gage with a optima battery running back to a ct sounds 1500 watt ( dynoed at 1950 for 1 ohm ) and a ct sounds 480 couldn't find the dyno video. But I'm running back to a 5 furad power cap and both amps running from it with the cross over line driver eq. From warmed up completely at max volume my voltage goes from 14.1 to 13.7 on a 40hrz 0db test tone. I was really looking at a test bench myself but it's so much cheaper to just run of my car. 😆 🤣 😂 if I ever get Time to u tube and build channel up enough maybe. I say all that to say this bud I watched alot of your videos truly your one of the very few who knows what you doing as a DIY ( particularly because of your research abilities) truthfully the DIY is what interest me the most because I have been doing audio for years and cheaper systems that sound amazing is what I strive for. Certain things have to be expensive but the audio world tries to make it far to much . Keep up the good work bud you help the community with every young buck u inspire 👍
Put mini 20s in your panel.
Bigger bank. More reserve from a stronger bank🙂 no need to get a bigger charging system if the bank pulls the slack Justin
I just order a JP23v2 and a JP84 to replace my Rockford 5ch. Now I’m starting think my F150 with a 220amp alternator won’t be enough…. This car audio is getting expensive lol!
I'm running a b2 2500.1 and 2 hertz amps in my f150. Seems fine.
You will probably be just fine as long as you are not sitting at idle burping test tones all day. Keep in mind that amplifiers were made for music, not test tones while hooked up to resistor banks.
What size is your motor because I had a 99Towncar and I have a 370 high output alternator 6 phase hairpin and one 220 amp alternator and a 135 factory alternator for sale 4.6 liter engine
The power supply went into protection probably because your outlet circuit only handles 15 amp. If you run one power supply into other circuit I believe it would work great.
Each is on its own 20a circuit.
I'm running the exact same power supply on a 15 amp circuit and have no problems. I'm operating mine on fixed voltage at 14.4. if you leave it as it's set from the factory it's designed to three-phase charge a battery and will drop off after a period of time by design.
Great video!!! Going to ask if you have seen the lev60 cells? I feel that they are better than the headway cells you are currently using. Especially in a 5s configuration.
I'm definitely going to have to make some changes to the test bench. I will look into those cells.
Just hook it up in ur car, use a stick between the seat and gas pedal and scoot ur seat up so it pushes your pedal down till ur around 1800 rpm's and I think it'd work pretty good lol. That's what I do when I demo outside of my car 🤷♂️
Great video people need to know about this. It takes power to make power. However I find one thing interesting 🤔 I do believe I get more power off my headway bank with the same boards.
I was expecting this bank to hold voltage a little bit longer.
I bought a jp23v1.5 about a year ago for under 250 to my door and I have a 1998 s10 upgraded alt. Big 3 really good frame grounds ...and it makes pleanty of power for my current set up of 1 dual 2 12in american bass xr ....but I am about to swap to 2 sa classic sundown 12dual 4s .....do you think if I just add an extra agm battery I will have enough power to run this set up
Sounds like you need a cmax or scib bank built for these tests🧐🧐
you upgraded alternator for 2000watts? im running 2000watts on stock 1996 jeep electrical and that shit bangs. got my doors flexing and everything
The JP23 does closer to 3,500.
@DIYAudioGuy gotcha. For short bursts it would be fine but for extended play I understand why you upgraded.
Now to get moar lifep04 batteries and add weight
So you saying you at the limit of your big boy amp testing?
Since the JP amps are rated and priced so good I decided to get the JP3 for starters. I also got the D4S 4awg wireing kit. I didn't realize that it was CCA. Is it safe to supply full power to the amp or will it be holding the JP3 back? Last I checked you can't get as much power out of CCA power cables as you can OFC 🤔
I think you are right on the edge. If it is a long wire run you will need to upgrade. th-cam.com/video/To4uT85DUrY/w-d-xo.html
Yes change to OFC. OFC 4 AWG is similar to CCA 1/0 AWG. Half that wire is aluminum which is nowhere near as good at conducting electricity as copper. Go OFC.
@@jimjones3287 Can't believe I ordered the wrong one by mistake. With CCA so popular and cheap. It's easy for anyone to do the same. It might be cheaper to get the DFS 1/0 version and use a reducer to 4awg. Or will there still be too much resistance in the CCA cable?
@@randomtube8226 just get ofc don't overthink it this is one of the easiest car audio decisions to make. you don't want to limit the power draw available to your amplifier it'll show up as clipping at lower volume and easier to drop voltage.
If I lived close I’d come wire in a better panel for you. It’s definitely something you could handle no doubt.
I think I have a bottleneck where the circuit branches off form the house. Definitely outside of my skill set, need a pro for sure.
@@DIYAudioGuy need 100 amp panel setup.
I got to wonder did you switch the Powermax to fixed voltage and dial it up to 14.4 or let it decide. I don't have any SMD equipment so I've set my amps by voltage with speakers running. Being as my system is not in a car it will be some effort to load it up and take it to a shop with SMD devices on hand. Not sure I want to drop the cash for my one project. So far I have had no indications of voltage drop, and I don't even have a battery yet. ZX750.1 and a ZX350.4 both at 2 Ω.
I tried it in both modes.
@@DIYAudioGuy That's curious. Maybe someday I will be able to determine what my setup is actually cranking. The total amplifier ratings are 1,100 watts, voltage set for 2 ohms. My power supply is also running the head unit relays and fans. That's with large capacitors for the amps, but no battery.
would you be interested in testing an old JL Slash 600 1v3 im really curious about its ratings, it says 600w at any ohm and from 10v to 14v and i really dont understand how it can come up with those numbers. i dont mind sending it your way, i wouldnt pressure you intp returning it. im just really curious
Regulated power supply.
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They need to sell a 200 watt amp that does 500 watts. I don't want to upgrade the electrical until my vehicle is out of warranty.
Look at the JP3.
Look at the JP3.
Go 230 v incoming instead of 110 v less of a amp pull so your ability Wil be better Your house all ready supplys it .
That is why I am googling "electrician near me" I am not going to touch 230v.
hire the correct electrician and make sure of his qualifications to get what you're wanting
Yep.
Made in China not Japan.
These cells are they safe for indoors?
Like all DIY lithium, use at your own risk.
Dam I thought surely two new ones would set you straight 🥲 ya your still handicapped on power my friend. Btw just got my jp84 and I too have weird noise that I’m not thrilled about
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