How does a port work? Myths Busted!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I explain how a port works, and in the process bust a few myths about the function of a port. To learn more about ports check out this video: • Everything you need to...
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Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
0:50 Myth #1
1:20 Air Has Mass
2:45 Resonating Air
3:50 Port Gain
5:25 Port Tuning Frequency
6:30 Port Airflow Demonstration
6:50 Cone Excursion
7:50 Myth #2
@Toid
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I started a business a year ago building custom bass boxes with 0 prior knowledge but I studied your videos and utilized all the knowledge I took from them. Now I have a solid reputation for my boxes performing perfectly
That is awesome! Nice work.
That's really cool! More power to ya! 👊
This awesome..
what about custom bass guitar cabs?
Why some boxes have membrane instead of ooen hole?
OMG 10 mins of non stop technical words, need hours to understand the basics of the port, wonderful explanation!! thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great description of the beauty of the band pass design. I have rarely heard it so well articulated. Just a pleasure to watch and listen to. Some of us are old hats with some of the science, but hearing it explained succinctly and clearly is still a beautiful experience. Thanks for that.
Thank you!
Just ported a box this weekend after watching your video! I added 3 smaller ports instead of one large one due to the size of the speaker and allowable drilling on the sub box. It sounds amazing. as I added each port 1-2-3 it got better sounding each time. I did the math and found the correct ratio to surface area and volume of the cone in order to convert to smaller ports. I see a lot of air but barely see the subwoofer speaker moving. I would say this is most efficient sound I can get out of my setup. Tuned to 59.7 hz.
That's sweet, I was looking for information on the exact same idea, and I figured the ratios were easy to calculate. Looks like you found out it's pretty simple.
is adding an extra identical aero port the same as making the original port longer?
@@jimjones3287 it seems so theoretically, I tried a design the same way, but I didn't calculate port noise yet. I would see that as being the biggest difference, but haven't put that theory into practice yet. Did you try to search for answers online?
Why do you have it tuned to 60 Hertz?
Wow, super impressed! I've never seen so much correct information condensed into 10 minutes on audio as this. In a sea of audio half truths this was refreshing to see not a single misunderstanding of the physics/engineering of how ports operate. My background is live sound engineer/speaker builder/car audio way back when and I spend more time on the math and physics of audio that I care to admit and you hit all the bases. The only thing I would of added would be some of the pro's/cons/trade off's of ported enclosures. Things like efficiency, size, distortion vs group delay, phase, f3, harmonics.
You are far too kind. As far as the pros and cons, my original plan was to make a video covering that topic. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. But you're exactly right. I need to make that video.
This was a great video. So much information packed into a few minutes. No fluff just the facts and it was explained in simple enough terms you don’t have to be a engineer to understand this information. This is why I follow this channel. Thank you
Thank you!
Great video!
You covered a ton of material in a very short period. I started studying the body of work by Theil & Small in the early 1980s. I began plotting freq response charts and then building a lot of "tuned" boxes back then. Amazing how much speakers have changed since then. Would like to see you do a video on passive crossovers as well. Most folks do not understand a simple 6dB/octave let alone an 18 dB/octave x-over or when to use each.
I tried reading the original papers. I don't have enough background in the subject to understand them.
I have always wondered how to the TS parameters to generate the plots. I am sure somebody out their has this posted online, or it is in a book. Can you point me in the right direction?
Great video and great explanation! You're explaining this at next level and I'm certainly going to link this video when people start with the subwoofer myths!
You are far to kind!
Beautifully detailed ❤️. I’m a sealed box kind of guy and have been into car audio for over 25+ years. I remember long before “bazooka” tubes, Kicker actually made speakers back in the late 80s that were of an oblong igloo. What was amazing about that design was it include a port, but sort of a hybrid port/sealed enclosure as it came with a port plug. I’m surprised I haven’t seen them since.
I remember those.
Generally speaking a subwoofer is going to perform better in either ported or sealed alignment and even with some of the fence-sitters you'll wind up with either larger than optimum sealed or smaller than optimum ported by just plugging the port.
@@Mr.Robert1 some were , depending on model some weren’t
What was the model , I never knew and would like to see it if it’s on line
Port plugs are still a thing in the home theater world.
Each of my 15s, for example, have 3 ports and I have the ability to plug each one. This helps with fine tuning to fit your room acoustics.
You’re educational videos are really well done. Your teaching style makes topics easier to understand.
Glad you like them!
Excellent video! One of the best and most comprehensive overviews of bass reflex systems 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wish I knew all this 20 years ago, so many years of bass wasted. Great video bro. Lots of people don’t know and your video help people build an enclosure the right way before making a costly mistake
👍
Next level stuff... Love this videos... Everything Audio makes sense for a sound fanatic as myself... Keep it up...🤩
Thank you! Will do!
Wow, just found your channel. No bs straight to the point and in an understanding way for the rest of us. Subbed!
Thanks.
Hey thank you I needed this video I'm doing a spl build for next year and this put everything into perspective, very detailed 👌 been following you for a year now and always something to learn 😀
Glad it was helpful!
Keep up the good work
Very interesting. You explain it in a way that actually makes sense to me. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
So much awesome info. I always built boxes to hrtz by size I would degree the main port tunnel. From opening it up to a smaller opening or a very small opening to a larger opening. It works phenomenally well and just a few degrees makes a huge difference
You mean like a flare. Yeah, that works great.
Wow alot of good info, I never saw a port like a passive radiator before but it makes sense the way you explained it. thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Dude! This was so educational, I learned so much just now! Thanks for posting this.
I just discovered your channel. Out-effin-standing work, info, and presentation! New subscriber here!
Welcome to the party.
Thank you for a very detailed and professional explanation brother, I love your passion.
Thanks!
This was excellent and helped me a lot to understand a bunch of stuff. Thanks you so much.
Hexibase did a great job explaining port variations. This is another good example for explanation 👍🏻
His stuff is entertaining.
Great video. Erin's Audio Corner also had a talk on use of Finite Element Method for design of drivers and enclosures. In it, they mention at one point when there is a high pressure or low pressure at the surface of the cone.
Aside from that recent video, there is something else I've been playing with: Changing the Qa (absorption) value in the advanced settings in the box tuning tab. With an absorption value of 20 (what Unibox and BassBox Pro use for an enclosure lined with insulation), this changes the excursion of the driver in such a way as to suggest the absorption makes the box act more like a sealed enclosure, which also allows for more power to be given to the driver before reaching X-max.
That may be a fun video, discussing box absorption and the effects on different types of enclosures, rather than the standard of using it to make the Q of the box seem to approach that of a larger box.
But, this means some of the negatives surrounding ported enclosures may be able to be combated through the use of insulation.
Either way, love the videos. Hope you are having a great weekend.
Definitely something to think about! At some point I'm going to do some experiments with box stuffing. Just need to do some more research and build some enclosures before I jump on that.
Sounds like fun and what could certainly be an awesome learning experience!
Especially since I am probably going to have to build my next box so I can have exactly what I'm looking for! My goodness I can't wait to have a Rocking system in my vehicle again!!
What I mentioned on Erin’s video is that steady state the cone moves outward and at it outermost displacement you have the lowest pressure in front of it, not the highest. A big misconception but often not of much consequence. The current video here is really good, great job.
@@Rene_Christensen - The way I remember it is thinking about the system in a ported enclosure. When the cone is at its innermost, it creates the highest potential or vacuum within the enclosure (lowest pressure) which then pulls air in to fill the low pressure as the cone moves outwards. Meanwhile, when the cone is at the outermost displacement, inside the box has the highest pressure at that point because it just filled the box and now that air is pushing back against the cone that is at its peak excursion outwards. But that is just how I think about it to keep it straight. And obviously, what is true on one side is the opposite on the other side (so when low on the inside of the enclosure, it is high on the cone on the outside of the enclosure).
Excellent information and you explained it perfectly! Keep up the good content.
You are to kind!
Thank you for giving me your subwoofer knowledge
Best video I've seen on the subject without going into the math involved, great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ah yes, well spoken educational videos about audio, I’ve been searching for this for months
I read Great Sound Stereo Speaker Manual many times cover to cover in the 90's as a teenage box builder. People were always amazed at the output of a single driver in a properly tuned ported box. Then I started building single reflex bandpasses. Same thing. I'd get 18" sound out of a single JL12W1 driver over a fairly narrow band.
Knowledge is power.
Do you build for sale?
Wow, I watch a fair bit of youtube tutorials and your way of explanting things is great!! Thanks for the info's!!
Thanks for watching!
I love your explanation! Very informative 🙂👍👍👍
Thank you! 😃
Wow, I still have so much to learn! I’m tearing down the Roku wireless subwoofer and looking into using the components in a total upgrade of the woofer and enclosure… going to be a fun project!
Does that subwoofer have any kind of DSP applied to it?
I should add: a simpler project we had in mind was to splice in some RCA jacks exposed in the back of current enclosure and hook up a small external amp to power some buttkickers… that would be our main preference just given our current setup.
It was interesting to see what's happening to both woofers and the port of an old JBL Northridge 100 at different frequencies. Both woofers are not always in phase, as I had expected.
And I heard a lot of rattles and stuff resonating in all kinds of places, at different frequencies.
Odd
The humble paddleball is a representation of this. The paddle is the driver, the ball is the air inside the port (in my case, it's instead a passive radiator) the air inside the cabinet is the rubber band. In the ideal scenario, both the ball and paddle should be traveling in opposing directions for as much of the span of said desired wave, as to transmit the most energy into the action. Same as a driver and port air should do the same. The most phase offset I have seen is up to 170°, which is amazing!
That is a cool trick.
The explanation is legit my man!
Thanks!
Wow, this is really good stuff, thank you for posting.
Glad you liked it!
Just wanted to find out what those tubes on my speaker do. This video got me more confused than when I started! 😂😂
😅🎉
Dude you have been compressing .. my chamber with .. knowledgeable
.. comprehensive .. notions .. tha
As motions ... thank you ..
Duee
Happy to help
Excellent explanation of ports!
Ports are a ton of fun.
this was very well explained thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow I love this explanation. Subbed!
Welcome to the party!
This video is jam packed full of information
Jammed for sure.
I'm already loving this one.
Glad you liked it.
You really do give off a sub character from mythbusters and i enjoy it
Your comment made my day.
I love this, great explanation
I appreciate you saying that.
I learned a lot, thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Great video and lots of great information!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow, great video man.! Beyond impressed with how much knowledge you crammed into such a short video.!
Had a question though, so I have a skar audio evl 65-d4 and I need to build a box.. any ideas on what to use, not to use.. dimensions etc..
Very much appreciated in advance.
Keep up the exceptional work
I typically model them in WinISD to figure all of that out. th-cam.com/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/w-d-xo.html I offer design services, but I am a little busy right now (fall 2022), so I am not taking on any design clients for a few months. The easy thing to do is grab a pro-fab box. Not sure if they have one for a 6.5. lddy.no/1c0u1
Looks like they do have a pro fab for a pair of 6.5's. lddy.no/1cm30
The main problem is that below the tuning frequency, the port goes out of resonance and DOES cancel the speaker output. It is an acoustical short circuit at very low frequencies. That is why a lowcut is needed with a BR woofer - to not over-excite and damage the speaker.
Yep, very sharp roll-off below tuning frequency.
You just scored yourself a subscriber my good man. Amazing video, thank you!!
Thanks!
Air Mass - ..anyone ever been close to a Tornado know that Air can express a force / pressure. .. same with walking near a building during a windy day. ( wind tunnel )
Very nice, detailed and well explained video on the physics of how this works.
Or just roll down one car window part of the way. Then roll down a second window a little bit and notice how the resonance stops.
@@DIYAudioGuy - Through flow. Yes! See, I like what you've just done here. This gives most regular people who happen to enjoy audio an everyday experience that relates to how sound functions and a practical WAY to recognize and listen for in an audio specific situation.
We're fish swimming in our own sea! Your remarks on air pressure provided me an intuitive impression of something that before now I could only accept as theory. Thank you!
Well said!
There's actually 2 resonances. One around the mid band where the driver is moving the most and the port and driver are in phase. This happens from a combination of the driver springing against its share of air in the box and the port springing against its share of air (I'm not sure how this air is divided but it is some fraction that changes with speaker parameters, box sizes and tunings).
The second resonance is that of the port springing against almost all the air in the box and the driver barely moving. The port output will be 90 degrees behind the output of the back of the speaker (or 270 behind the front). The net 90 degree phase is still additive, especially when the port is making most of the sound.
You can actually see two resonances with a mass on a spring and your hand. One where your hand moves up and down a lot and the weight does the opposite of your hand. The other where the weight does most of the motion and your hand moves only enough to make up for losses and may as well be a fixed point.
Below the tuning, the port will be making some sound but will begin to act like a leak in the box, meaning the driver will act like it is in free air. In fact it resonates even more at very low frequencies due to the momentum of the air in the box and the port increasing the effective moving mass of the speaker. You can damage your speaker if it's playing too loud down there. I have pa subwoofers that are tuned between 35 and 40 Hz depending on boundary loading and they can move like crazy at 10-15 Hz with just a handful of watts.
Yes, I've only barely scratched the surface in this video.
Great job man💯
Thanks 💯
When I was looking to make a speaker for my Bass guitar and I had a 15" woofer from an older cabinet, I bought a book at RadioShack and started to research how I would do it.
I eventually became intimidated by the math I needed to make the perfect cabinet for a speaker of relatively unknown specs, so I made a solid and airtight box with insulation stuffed into it.
I learned what the tuned ports were for back around 1984 and I've cringed a little every time I have seen poorly controlled woofers, just sitting out in the open in some idiots car, and they thought their music didn't suck.
I've since learned that speakers for the original production of music, can add character to the sound, and that's sort of okay, but when we want to reproduce the original sound, it really pays to have perfect well thought out speakers that produce a flatter well controlled sound that sounds like the original recording.
I would like to produce some interesting speakers with tight bass, and it's probably easier now because bare speakers often come with the important information and recommendations for proper cabinet volume and design.
Thanks for this video this is fantastic
You're very welcome!
The best tool for understanding woofer enclosure performance is Newton's second law of motion applied to forced oscillation. In this equation three factors are important, moving mass, damping factor, and spring constant. In a ported design the port acts like a pipe in a pipe organ tuned to one frequency. The same is true for wind instruments, reeds and horns. You change the notes by changing the length of the air column. At the tuned frequency air moves easily through the port. Half an octave higher and lower air won't move easily through the port at all. So at the tuning frequency there is low back pressure resistance to air moving and the cone continues to vibrate for awhile. Light cone weight tend to reduce this effect but lack of strength leads to breakup of the cone into harmonic modes called Bessel functions like the membrane of a drum. The spring constant and damping factor are largely controlled by a fairly tight outer suspension and the spider. Differences in restoring force varying circumferential tends to twist the cone while differences in force radially tend to shear it. Therefore the spring force and damping factor vary with both frequency and amplitude. IMO it's not a good design.
Not all sealed speakers are acoustic suspension which should have been called pneumatic suspension. Those which are and are optimized overcome these problems. Further advantages are explained by the ideal gas laws.
Such a great info-dump. Totally new to this, so trying to pick up some bits. I know you covered a lot, but as I sip information, and don't get a chance to swallow, my thimble just chokes then overflows. I'm left with a bit of the flavor, but most of the nutrition is gone (when people cover advanced topics and go _so_ fast!) I realize for much of your audience this is all 'old hat', nothing new, no need for pace-pause-repeat [[Teaching -->Learning]] because they all know it already. Hey, maybe I can watch 6 more times, keep stopping it and take notes!
Meanwhile, thanks for putting the info out there.
👍
@3:00 I've never heard that explanation... thanks!
Thanks!
Outstanding!! If viewers look at speakers made prior to the AR-5 it brings this home big time amps were low power tube yet they thundered the speakers of the day
Modern car subwoofers with their massive and stiff suspension are just not very efficient.
Creative video, thanks for sharing it :)
Thank you! Cheers!
great video man
Thanks!
I flip my speaker box cone facing up, place some rice on the cone and play a test tone. When the rice stop moving that's my tuning frequency.
Yep!
i JUST made the connection between the sub and the port listening to you talk about the "not a fan, because its pushing and pulling"
so the port is 101% tied to the T&S of the speakers due to Vas, Fs, BL and MMS... all have a direct effect with the port, both shape and length are affected by each other due to the interaction of air molecules inside the port, change the length and shape, you just changed everything about it
Yep, it is an interesting bit of physics!
@@DIYAudioGuy i just never made the connection, easy way for newbies to think of it would be the air acts like a passive radiator... only not solid... but gas particles
You're an excellent teacher. 😎👍
Thanks.
Thank you for showing people how to Do the Math! Win ISD is the best. You truly are a great builder and very knowledgeable. As I normally post. Do your math! Fantastic Brother!
I agree! A little math goes a long way!
Great info
Thanks
Best and most digestible explanation I’ve ever heard.
Thank you!
May i suggest an idea for a future video? Would you make a video on how you learned all this? How you got started in audio. How you got involved/ inspired/ influenced/ interested/ esc. Schooling / collage on the subject if so. (You seem professionally educated on the subject) I think it would be cool to see how you got started and what you were interested in when starting out. And the difference on the equipment from them until now. And how that effected what you know / learned. Thanks 🙏🏼
Based off of your explanation of port size and pressure at different frequencies would it be possibl to adjust the port length with say a consitina setup which is controlled by a stepper motor for different frequency ranges using a frequency controller, e.g. At higher frequency shorten/lengthen the port a few cm (inches - I work in metric) and then at lower frequencies adjust the port again so that the optimal Fb works over a broader range, and the effective frequency range for maximum bass range is widened? Not sure if you understand the question... I'm not technical by any means, but it sounds like a logical approach to expanding the bass range for full enjoyment without compromising choice of the size of the product. Could be overkill, but does such a active port setup exist? Should not be a massively expensive alternative in my mind. Would be interesting to hear your feedback. Very good video BTW, explaining the port logic, even for a non techie like myself!
I havent watched any Subwoofer building Videos for just about one year. I was determined to learn just about everything I needed to know regarding the technical aspects of it. And I did. The point is having watched your video here and a couple others of yours today I can gladly say that you have improved your video presentation in 2023, not that it was bad by any means. You are much appreciated. Your videos are music to my ears. Please keep it up.
I try to get a little better every day. I use the money provided by my patrons to (www.patreon.com/DIYAudioGuy) to upgrade camera gear, lights, microphones, software, etc...
Great vid as always. I’m always learning and experimenting and learning some more. I like a 25-28 hz tune for the lows ya some day it’s a waist but I’m always changing my port tuning about every 2 months or so anyhow. Motorized port??
I think it would be cool to build a box with a removable panel, just cut a hole in the panel and stick in an arrow port. Then you could swap out ports anytime you wanted.
25-28 is the life, low life. That’s where I live
Mind Blown. Crystal clear description. Thanks!
Good! I was not sure if I was being clear.
Awesome video!! What type of enclosure do you recommend to get some decent bass from ceiling speakers?
Most of them are designed to operate free air.
thanks, I am in the process of building my first box with some left over drivers tweeter/mid-range from a JBL 4412. I Have a pyle 12" blue wave woofer that i got for near nothing.
This will be fun, in fact I will probable use this creation(combined with the software) as a dedicated sound physics experimental box. Thanks again, as i am sure your teachings will spare me from much trial and error.👍👍
I have a good video on box building that you should check out! th-cam.com/video/SVZ5uD_smpc/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy thanks, I was going to .45 degree cut my box, but decided not to on my first try with a 3 way box. I decided not to go with the Pyle bass, and used a 12 inch from an l100, it sounds better combined with the tweeter and mid from the 4412👍👍
I've owned both sealed design speakers or air suspension speakers like older Boston acoustic, and I loved the tightness and defined response of bass, was all that traded for the loudness and efficiency of ported designed speakers? Because I believe the sealed design sound a lot more pleasing.
A lot of people like that sound.
I prefer sealed boxes. They don't go as deep, but are faster, better defined and an easier load for the amp.
I recently started watching your channel. First rate work , fairly easy to understand , should be very helpful . I recently started the planning stage for a low power bass cabinet (20 watts ). Being low power, efficiency will be a big deal . When installing 2 different speakers (2-4'' mid bass and a single 10'') in the same cabinet . How do you determine the port size ?
Here is what you want: th-cam.com/video/yZNeYBYGRKk/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy Thank you so much
@@Mr.Robert1 Thanks for the input. I like to build my own stuff if I can .
I'm loving these videos! So much new knowledge.
Does your plan for 10" Dayton sub also work with the ultimax model?
Greetings from Amsterdam 👍
I prefer a lower tuning for the Ultimax, and it needs a bigger speaker cut out. Otherwise it will work. It just may not be optimal.
I've always loved music, of all genre's and styles, but lately I feel like an ignorant poser. My gosh there's so much to it. From speaker's polarity, to the sounds frequencies and the human ears abilities, to that "warm and fuzzy" tone old amps/receiver's have that I searched for only to find out its not necessarily a good thing. I have some really nice old receivers from the 70's that come to find out all need, at least, recapped. The Sansui 9090db being my first and favorite garage sale/thrift store, or in the 9090db's case, dump score. The more I learn from people like yourself the more hesitant I am to jump in and start soldering on priceless vintage stereo equipment.... but, gotta start somewhere!! I'll start on the old technics SA-303, and cross my fingers!
Thanks for sharing the priceless experience and information with those of us less endowed than yourself!!!
It just take some time to learn everything.
HI, what should the right port tuning freq. for the outdoor pro subwoofer?
What do you mean? Like a PA or concert system at an outdoor venue? I am not really sure, I mostly stick to home theater and cars. But the exact frequency will depend on the speaker.
I suppose I'm a DIY guy, too. I built a sound system that could play to 50,000 people. Although people have transmigrated through a lot of sub-woofers, we worked with the old JBL single 18" folded horn ported speaker enclosure. When stacked in a 4 X 2 configuration, it goes to 40 CPS almost flat. It only occupies 16' to 20 feet of wing space in a coliseum stage and sounds as tight as JBL L200 studio monitors.
Impressive!
I simulated a dayton woofer in Speaker Box lite. But the diameter of the port is a bit odd. The closent diameter of tube i can find is about 3mm wider. Would that be ok? Is there a tolerance for speaker port size? TIA
I've got some krk rokit 8's, and they do go loud enough, but usually I have to turn it down because at some higher frequencies, while playing guitar, they start to unload and the 8" woofer starts to over-excursionate-ify. Should I get bigger pa speakers or is there a fix? If I start to adjust the bass using eq's and or hp filters, the guitar doesn't sound as nice or powerful...... Any suggestions?
Sounds like you need a bigger speaker.
@@DIYAudioGuy yeah, looking at a used pair of Yorkville YX10P.
They are 10".
Going to see if I can rent the same type from a music store, before I buy them.
My issue with ports- is you come to find out half the songs sound like crap and you find yourself playing the same 5 songs that sound "great" in your range, not the music you enjoy- IF you listen to actual music. Thats why i am going back to sealed box this build.
I'll be a bit picky and give you a chance to clarify, you started out by saying the port is not a speaker but by the time we arrive at the 'resonating air' section you kinda say it is....
I'm in the guitar cab world, so the desired outcomes are different, I personally like to run an open back (free air??) cab and a closed back with a small slot port.
Now you've got me thinking about the volume of air in that slot.🤗
The closed back is definitely tighter and more focused. There's no 'better' though.
Quick question if I may? This is more of an experiment to try with some typical 15" + horn passive PA speakers enclosures (plastic...), I was wondering if I could 'tune' an enclosure to get the best mid range from the front of the cone into a horn say and maximise the bass frequencies using a port or horn or combination of both? Maybe using a 4th or 6th order setup? Enclosure size isn't a problem within reason :) I'd use a standard style horn for the tweeter. I would like to achieve a bigger bass and keep the mids with a better spl for smaller outdoor gigs (the bass disappears outside!) without having to setup our big rig that requires lots of watts(amps) using what I have to hand. Not asking for much am I :D
Your vid's are great and I'm just getting started into them, a lot to learn, thanks and cheers
I don't know enough about horns to really help you with that. I suggest that you check out my buddy Nick he is a true guru when it comes to home speakers. th-cam.com/video/RQlrNc3qqnw/w-d-xo.html
once you get beyond 4th order, it gets very difficult to measure all of the parameters involved, and they all change with spl loads, ageing, and probably even moon phase.
Everybody talks about more bass and nobody talks about more fidelity
The struggle is real.
Fidelity is everything.
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Awesome information. No BS either. 🎉
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Excellent
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Dude I’m 2 mins into this video and still understand what the heck your talking about, great job I’m quite simple so I’m gonna keep watching and I’m sure I’ll learn something 🎉
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I have a set of bass bases for a couple of monitors. These are 15 liter closed Boxes. With Vifa M18WO, which lend themselves to ported and langer boxes. Would they thus more present?
That enclosure seems to be way too small to make good bass.
Hello, what type of box would you recommend for two kicker L7 8” subs? I listen to all types of music and I want to hear every detail possible. And, how much do you charge for the cut sheet of that box? Thanks
Reach out to @MBEnclosures, he is the expert on a box for the L78.
I decided to go with pre cut 2x4 3/4 in mdf same 11.75 for top and sides ,bottom center. 18 in daytons
3.75 cuft per driver. Plate amp 500w dayton. On rollers 4 in off floor. Killer bass 90 to 18 hertz. Make sure to use lots of stuffing. I also put 3/8 in bolts (8) around the woofers to compress the whole cabinet ie increase rigidity. Trying new grs planer tweeter soon with cast frame usher 8 in carbon fiber towers
I did DIY in 1968..
Awesome!
Dual monoblock tpa3255 amps for towers @ 38v. Attention to details , research and carefully choosing drivers, with eq in phone , and good signal, quiet cables and short distance from amplifier to speakers all add up . I have retired and work in wheelchair. It helps the pain of a 68 year old diabetic heart amputee..
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Rustnoilum 'leather' color with epoxy coat makes a perfect finish that looks like no other and tough
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Best explanation
Glad you think so!
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Thank you!
So I have two subwoofer and making a box with tubes,so I was wondering if I can put the tubes on the opposite from the face subwoofer?if so that means the volume wave sounds will come from the tube so that means I need to flip the box subwoofer facing towards the front car so now the air is behind trunk?
In car response is difficult to predict, try it both ways and see which one works best.
I want to build 2 speaker boxes for outdoor activities and I want to use 2 15" subwoofers for each box with 2 midrange speakers and tweeters in each box how box should the box be ty
That's a question for Toids DIY. That kind of build is right up his alley, you can join his forum and find helpful people that can help you figure out how to do it.
Is there any difference between the resonance frequency of the port itself and the resonance frequency of the system (i.e., the box plus the port)? I have come across some texts that describe them as distinct frequencies. Thanks for your help!
That is a great question, join us on our next live show and we will try to give a detailed answer: bit.ly/3PYKG5P