P1391 CODE 5.2 DODGE RAM,PLEASE HELP!CAMSHAFT/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CHECK ENGINE PROBLEM TRUCK
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ค. 2024
- FIX: buy different brand quality sensor!
1996 2nd gen dodge ram 1500 5.2l v8 magnum 2wd
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Hi this is geramicc85, i did a lot of videos on this channel helping thousands of people to fix their truck. Now i need your help please. My truck has a problem and so far I and no one else seems to be able to fix it. Here is what happened: I was driving down the road at around 25 miles per hour. It was a very foggy day at around 40° Fahrenheit. Engine was warmed up and no check engine light was on. Engine was running just fine. Suddenly while driving, the engine shuts off, dashboard and lights out. In the middle of the road. I tried to turn it back on, but nothing just quiet. I had the triple A look at it since i didn't have a clue what it could be and the guy said that it should be an electrical problem since there obviously was no spark. Since i couldn't figure out why i had to get the truck towed home. The fuel pump fuse was blown, i replaced it. Now when i turned the key the dash came on and the check engine light came on. i hooked up my laptop and read out the code P1391. This is the freeze frame data that was stored. Since P1391 stands for a faulty signal of the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. I replaced both of them. To make sure I also replaced the ignition coil, the distributor cap and rotor as well as the spark plugs and wires. After this i was able to start the car and i was so happy because i thought i fixed the problem. But as soon as the engine reaches operating temperature its starts to run really rough at around 1600 rpm. By the way the clicking noise are just the injectors. And if i take the foot of the gas it runs fine at idle. If i try to get over 1700 rpm it sounds like it is having misfires caused by missing fuel or missing spark. The more I step on the gas, the worse the engine runs until it shuts off. I decided to change out the ecu engine computer. So i got a used one off ebay and replaced it. But it didn't have any effect. I had this truck in two garages because of this issue. They said they checked all the wires and sensors again and that they were ok. When they went into the cylinders with their camera they found a tiny crack in cylinder number one as you can see here. They said that could be the problem and offered to take apart the engine. But since them looking at it already cost me tons of money and i didn't want them to take apart the engine i towed the truck back home to look at it myself again. Now i am asking you for help. If you might know what the problem could be please let me know. I tried to explain the problem as accurate as possible but if you have any questions i will be more than happy to answer you down in the comments. Of course i will make a detailed video about the solution of this problem to help others. But until then please help me guys! Thank you very much for watching. And thank you for your support to make this channel better. This is geramicc85 signing out.
#dodgeram #2ndgen #P1391 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I solved this problem on my truck and figured I'd share with you. I unplugged the two wire plug from the alternator and the miss went away! Alternator replacement fixed it for me!
What happens when disconnecting these plugs?
Plz tell which 2 wires? Thnx
It is the flexplate, 100% positive, i have same issue, replaced so many parts, come to find out, the flexplate matched all my symptoms. Hope this helps
Flex plate is another word for flywheel?
Flywheels are for manuals flex plates are for automatics
Did you ever figure it out. Having same problem with my 97 2500. Changed both cam and crank sensors put a new timing chain and checked ground wires all are fine put in a whole new distributor and had it fuel synced. Only thing I haven't changed was the pcm but I don't want to keep replacing things and getting nowhere.
Have the main engine harness check or changed I just had this same problem from the truck I just bought. I put 2 new crank sensors in and no change. Truck was idle cut out and died and wouldn't restart at all. so I had another harness so I changed it after I turned the key and she started right up no more problems
High short term fuel % and blown fuel pump fuse....vacumn leak or weak return on pump?
Well my truck was doing the same identical thing and I took the throttlebody off and there was four throttlebody gaskets on it took them all out but one and now shes running great
What was fix for p1391cide and stalling issue? I have same problem 1999 Ram 1500, replaced all parts you did??
Check your wiring at the connector. I had exposed wiring that shorted my relay box to where I had no spark and caused my crankshaft position sensor to go bad.
Hi.
I just watched your video.
Did you eventually solve the problem and how?
We are having the exact same issue, wondering what the fix is if you have found it..It would be much appreciated....Please Help
How about the crankshaft position and/or the cam shaft position sensors? I have a 1996 Ram 2500 with a Z engine. It's having trouble starting once in a while and sometimes it loses power. I think it's the crankshaft position sensor. I know these can cause all kinds of problems when they start to go bad. I'm looking at replacing it now. Second thought is... what is your output of your alternator? For some reason I can't recall, alternators will output max voltage which causes issues over time. Lastly, fuel pump or filter. It's been a month, did you find a fix?
Im having same problem i have a 1996. My first truck its doing the exact same thing just not running that rough yet it is having trouble starting though while warm
did you solve the rough running problem?
Here is my humble amateur opinion. With the crack seen by the borescope, the first thing I would do would be a compression test to try and decide whether it is worth throwing more money at it. I'm hoping that is an artefact, not a true finding. I would also record, and then clear the codes to see if there are any new codes since replacing those sensors. If the 1391 persists you'll need to look at CMP and CKP waveforms and timing, and pursue other causes of bad sensor input (poor ground, bad wiring, etc). If compression testing is OK, I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schraeder valve and measure fuel pressure under load. While you're at it, I would put in about 5 gallons of fresh gas in case your engine is glugging water or contaminants at the bottom of the tank. You might even consider siphoning the small amount of fuel remaining in the tank to look for contaminated fuel. I would not fill the tank completely until you prove the fuel pump is OK since a full tank is hard to work with. The freeze frame data wasn't particularly suggestive of a bad pump or bad pressure regulator but this did start with a blown fuel pump fuse and it is worse under throttle which may be pointing to a fuel delivery problem. If you have access to an oscilloscope, you could measure current draw by the pump to get a feel for whether the pump is on its way out. If fuel delivery seems to be OK, then I would pull the upstream O2 sensor and measure exhaust back pressure to exclude a clogged cat. If all of that is OK, I would study live fuel trim a little more carefully under load to search for more clues. The STFT was a little high in your freeze frame and I suppose that could be a clue regarding a bad fuel injector. If you can get access to a labscope you could look at injector current ramps and ignition waveforms. As I recall these older Rams don't have a MAF but I suppose bad data from the MAP could lead to strange fuel trim under load. In the absence of good diagnostic equipment, I would not hesitate to ask for more professional help before replacing any more normal parts. Please stop by and let us know how this turns out.
same issue when i clear codes runs perfect for a few days...
If you find out what's wrong with it please let me know my truck is doing the same exact thing and I can't also not figure it out. thank you in advance
I'm having same issue. I'm playing with cam shaft wires on harness and boom it stalls engine. Try the connection harness wires directly at the connection clip
Did the idle control valve fix your problem?
I went through 2 distributors and the duralast one had a problem with the cam sensor. I no longer have the light on but I got a Cardon distributor and made sure the distributor was sitting right in the engine
I got the same problem any help
I had a similar problem on a Toyota truck, check the wiring in the o2sensors
Maybe change the temperature sensor..there are two of them..one for the dash and one for the computer..they sit side by side just in front of the thermostat.
Have you checked the flywheel?. Due to are crank sensor pick the reading up from the flywheel and the 2nd gen dodge rams have had plenty of issues with the flywheel cracking .
i was looking at a 2001 2500 for short money as a back up plow truck.....soon as i started it up i could hear the flywheel crack....guy tried telling me it was exhaust manifold leak lol ...it had the code for this so i passed....to bad because frame and body were decent.....if i had more time i could have put a used motor in but o well...
I had many of these issues, it turned out to be ground wire. The heads wouldn't do it, I ran heads like that knowingly for a few months.
Let me know what the solution/fix is thanks
hi hast du dehn fehler gefunden ich habe den fehler auch
I know this is an old post but I also noticed you recently changed your alternator (I'm assuming out of desperation). Since you're already reaching out to the TH-cam community for help, consider contacting scannerdanner. I'm confident he would be able to help you get to the bottom of this. I'm in no way affiliated, I just also have the exact problem you're having, but am not as able as you. I really want for you to be able to fix it, so I can learn from you.
Check the voltage and resistance to and from you cam and crank sensors. Then youll need to figure how your fuel pump got an over voltage. That may be your source problem
How did u fix it
was it a blown head gasket!???
That sounds like mine still haven't found the problem I've done everything you done an still the same on mine i pulled in yard an turned off then I went to move it an it wouldn't start so I changed the crank an pick up coil sensors an now it starts but it runs like it's out of time
I would be looking at cam, valves, lifters and timing gears. Might have to pull a few covers off but .... hey
I got it to run by replacing the engine temp sensor normally you see this in Chevrolet be careful it's behind the alternator and if you drop the alt you'll will change this sensor twice
The cam shaft wires them self's are not good or the connector may have oil or water in it check the wire and connector of can shaft sensor
My 2009 dodge Ram 1500 5.7 hemi keeps blowing camshaft sensor it will drive good for a little bit then the traction light comes on and it runs like crap what could be the problem
Did you find out what the problem was ?,,my 98 ram is doing the exact thing...
Hi there this is julio from Julio’shop since u have check cam n crank sensors and there is no problem with sensors and wires check the flywheel maybe is craked we had a couple cars with same code p1391we check the sensors n wires everything was ok we check the flywheel and boom both of them had bad flywheel I hope this info help u. Let me know please thank you and good luck
Hope u find it
It can't pump out the fumes so it forces them to the front andin the out valve and now there's not enough clean air but when it cold every thing contracts a hair and let's exhaust out and more air in till the heat hits it and expand closes off
Could be 02 sensors. They need to sense the heated exhaust to cone out of closed loop and if one is reading wrong when it sends the info to the engine computer it can cause it to adjust fuel/air intake in the wrong way.
those years dodges are notorious for 02 going bad....change them when you do plugs..
Good luck. I have a 98 Z code engine and mine starts right up most times. When it warms up then it starts to run really rough. The local garage replaced the cam sensor (distributor) plug wires and plugs. It ran ok for about a month and then right back to the same problem. The check engine light comes on and the code is for cam sensor. The garage it's at now has had it 3 weeks with no luck. I plow snow with the truck and hope someone can get it up and running. The oil pressure gauge stopped working about the same time also.
Mine does the same
So what was the problem???
I have a 01 ram 2500 v10 I kno it sucks & you wonder how they could make parts that dont last but I have replaced my crankshaft sensor 3× in a year Idk if u fig it out but seriously try another crankshaft
Timing chain?
Was this fixed. I had what I would call a similar problem. Bad front O2 sensor. When the 02 sensor goes bad computer does not know how much gas to give engine. First started with miss then truck quit all together. Who knew! I see other people also posted 02 sensor so not just me who had similar problem. Had same code turned out to be bogus. Had this problem years ago, after replacing O2 sensor never happened again. Good luck!
Idk if you ever solved this issue or not but I am having the exact same issue on my 99 Dakota. I’ve changed so many parts and nothing has solved my problem. And after having to pull the transmission to change my clutch the other day I accidentally smashed the crank shaft position sensor so I had no spark and couldn’t start it and when I went to change it I noticed it was covered in black oil or something all over the sensor part that goes into in the hole in between the transmission and the engine and is now running exactly like your truck and I can’t figure it out. I’m hoping you can help me out as this is my only vehicle and is my only way to make money right now. Please help
hey brandon, i am not 100% sure if i solved it on mine but try to change the sensor again, that made a difference here, the first one i used was from ebay, the second one from rockauto, get one from rockauto for your specific year make and model and it might do the trick, hope it works, best of luck
What is the fuel pressure ? And intake man vac ? when it acts up does it smell rich or lean ? could be the coolant temp sensor has a crack , My 5.2 jeep had a bad one and it tested good . Also very important . spray brake cleaner in the crank sensor hole , Make sure it is flooded clean , Use air if you have it , You might get someone to turn it over while you spray the cleaner . If the sensor gets a week reading it will run but poorly ..
Just spray cleaner in pretty heavy and turn the engine over and spray again . Also that sensor is adjustable and should have come new with a small plastic peel off piece , Don't peel it off just put it in up against the converter , The plastic will peel off and that is the proper gap for the sensor . Hope you get it fixed !
Check the flywheel. The clicking sound may be an indication that the center of the flywheel has is cracked therefore shifting just enough to throw out your timing. Google it.
@@douglasdebnar9606 its the speed sensor
Maybe you should try some of that miracle oil you can buy the 5 gallon Court from Walmart !! , It might be in your fuel injection or fuel system !! .
After some thought i deleted my last comment, being that it runs good when cold when Sensors are in closed loop but bad when it's warm when Sensors kick in to make air/fuel asjustments I'm leaning on either wiring grounding out somewhere particularly a hot area or pinch point or a clogged cat, however only one can explain a blown fuse on fuel. Those symptoms could be many things but considering it all would say check all wires and the cat, ive done a ram that ran perfect when cold but as soon as it was hot felt like it was slowly falling on its face the more i gave it gas which did turn out to be a cat, just having a hard time understanding the blown fuel fuse. It's going to be guesses on here for us all but considering it runs good cold it can only be a few things as its in a loop when cold for the 02 sensors and only allows certain amount of fuel. If a cat is clogged may run fine until warm then when the loop opens allowing more fuel the cat will heat up causing it to expand and clog worse.
geRAMicc85 Being that the codes and fuel fuse blown conflict with any single diagnoses that's also something an electrical short can cause, you might try wiggling wiring harnesses around while someone increases rpm to see if it gets power suddenly. If you are under the hood and need a hand or walk through on where anything is or to brainstorm to eliminate some possible causes txt me at this number n I'll txt my actual phone number from it n u can call me 817-363.4231 best of luck
Was this issue ever resolved ?
Blue Label Media what about something that runs great when warm but terrible when cold
I had the same code. I did a full tune up and replaced the cam and crank sensors and still had the code. Turned out the idle air control valve was causing the problem
Did the IAC fix the problem?
@@Magnum5.9360 for mine it fixed the stalling problem and I thought it fixed those codes since they went away but they came back 2 weeks later. The ignition was cause for those codes. My ignition was so worn I was able to pull the key out while it was running. I replaced the ignition and it fixed everything
@@austinhess1218 I am sorry. What is the ignition? Did you mean the ignition key cilynder?
Did you solve the problem and thank you for your videos its helping me alot
i did not give up yet and now back on the truck trying to fix it
@@geramicc85 mine ended up being the cam position sensor. I had bought one from autozone lifetime warranty.
I started having problems again 2 weeks later. It wouldn't turn on. I took the sensor out cleaned it put it back and it turn on. I replaced the sensor again since it's lifetime warranty. Long story short I went to the dealership and bought it factory. 70 bucks instead of 30 bucks from autozone. Problem solved
hey!! what does GEN mean?! on the dash lights. in the beginning of the video.
Hello there. The problem have to do with the crankshaft position sensor I would recommend you to take one bolt out off the crankshaft position sensor and slightly move it away from the engine
i know this is an old video but good chance the timing chain stretched....90s magnum gas engines were known for that..
Same problem here
How to remove how to remove a broken bolt in exhaust manifold
The alternator is the motor running the electric portion of the vehicle, creating amps. (Because of the magnets moving next to copper wires)The battery or capacitor is only needed to run the starter which begins the process of a running engine. There's kickstart bikes,crank started vehicles and pull rope start motors. the engine is running the amps feed the fuel pump and every other vital thing needed for a modern road legal car. If cars didn't need headlights,wipers,blinkers etc alternators would not be needed. Alternators like to work when they are cold and still because the shorts are touching. Once the alternator expands and vibrates the wear and tear is more evident.
Sometimes the distributor guts crack and you'll lose signal in the hall effect rotor.
Did you ever find the cause ?
?
Take the o2 sensor out and see if it runs better it looks like a caytlic convert pluged
The tension's on a time and chain the time is so advanced that's why it's running bad
I got the same code and I cant figure it out either I'm ready to get rid of the truck because of this
idle air control valve
I had the same problem and i solved , change the altenator
how does changing the alternator help with this issues.... just asking bc I am having the issues as well on a 1999 dodge grand caravan 3.8L and I notice as well the battery light does come on. I had alternator check 6x's and no issues with it. battery is full of charge .. but I am confused on how they play a roll in this issues.. Help me understand please and thanks
Mines been doing the irratic idle and back firing also seems to top out at 4500 rpm like it's on the Rev limiter I've replaced the crank sensor full time up new coil pretty much everything but the alt and the cam sensor and did the intake gaskets super pissed with it if someone has an answer I'd like it lol is my truck charges good so doubt it's the alt
Alt
@@robertcampbelljr5952 The alternator is the motor running the electric portion of the vehicle, creating amps. (Because of the magnets moving next to copper wires)The battery or capacitor is only needed to run the starter which begins the process of a running engine. There's kickstart bikes,crank started vehicles and pull rope start motors. the engine is running the amps feed the fuel pump and every other vital thing needed for a modern road legal car. If cars didn't need headlights,wipers,blinkers etc alternators would not be needed. Alternators like to work when they are cold and still because the shorts are touching. Once the alternator expands and vibrates the wear and tear is more evident.
I have 94 ram 360 runs great, idles 5 minutes gets like it’s flooding quits. Starts up great five minutes later does same. Replaced all the usual parts. GOT ME STUMPED? NEED HELP?
did you ever replace your crankshaft sensor?
Thnx brother I check out. CHEERS !
@@geramicc85 replaced everything?
@@geramicc85 thinking about getting an o e m from the dealer?
Which wire off the alternator ?
Yo tengo el mismo problema y creo ke ya lo solucione. Sensor cm. Ese era mi problema
Cual?
If that truck use mass air flow sensor try clean with brake cleaner or replace
Did you figure this out ?
@@geramicc85 I forgot to hook up a ground also under the dash on the right side by the glove box, so check everything. Do you live in western Washington ? If you do I would gladly try to help you figure it out
Check distributor drive gear bushing
Intermediate shaft bushing
On mine 1998 Dodge ram it was the idol sensor
Now my question is how do you change the spark plugs with the heat shield around them and your socket won’t go in?
@@rhodonbrown81698 you using a spark plug socket?
Thank you got mine fixed
you're welcome but how did you fix yours?
Neutral safety ? Unplug and check for fluid.
Seems like carbs sensors tps
Check ASD Relay Fuse, put original computer back in, unplug oxygen Sensors, run truck, see how it does, if the problem, check wiring from computer to 02 sensors, heater circuit and signal wire. Then plug 1 sensor back in, and drive. See what happens. Check with ohm meter. Check battery and alternator. Batt. 12.6 when running over 14.2 let us know. Good Luck!
Disconnect your negative battery cable turn the key all the way forward like your trying to start it at the same time hold the gas peddle all the way down and hold both for 30 seconds shut it off reconnect the negative battery cable and start it up
Timing chain
Did you also notice when the truck dies and you can't start it everything else seems to work but the gauge has the needles when you turn the key on the needles on a fuel gauge all the gauges none of the needles come up by chance? Because that's what mine is doing so far all I have been told or red is that it's a camshaft sensor
Cam sensor dude
Kinda sounded like transmission sensor
get the car reprogram it could be ECM Module
you need a quality scanner to do the job well hope you manage this issue
Nasser Al-Ghamdi the DRBiii scanners are obsolete. The new bidirectional scanners cant program them.
as per the article it could be camshaft sensor
www.autocodes.com/p1391_dodge.html
pick up coil
bad new crank sensor maybe go with a mopar part
ok thanks
I bet its your timing chain worn slap out. Also cracks in the magnum heads between the seats is common and effects nothing
Need a new engine
DISCONNECT THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR.
Add gas
Bad PCM. Probably losing its ground.
Call the junk yard they will be glad to help, I have the same truck and same problem, I never ever will buy another Dodge truck
🤷♂️❓
The problem is, it is DODGE