You know what Eric, I was just thinking to myself that in order to be a successful youtube video blogger such as yourself you need to humble and be able to have thick skin. I've noticed that you've handled criticism very well and haven't fed the trolls or stooped to a level such as them. Now I'm not calling everyone that has an issue with your video or disagrees with you a troll but there are times when people get rude and downright disrespectful and you haven't given them a soapbox. To me, being able to remain professional, respectful and calm when being criticized is a very important key for success. And I think people need to take note of this and see why he's amassed such a loyal following. When compared to all the other guys that were on the pull-a-part challenge I think Eric gets the most amount of criticism and I believe he handles it exceptionally well.
Personally I had problems with the gear drive on the valve application. I decided to go with the pneumatic actuator butterfly .opening through the vacuum from my from my inlet manifold..
I agree, I'm all about crimping. I used to use the ones you shown in the video, but found that I had better success with using non-insulated butt connectors and then following it up with marine grade heat shrink tubing. the benefit of marine grade heat shrink tuning is that it is lined with adhesive, which provides a weatherproof seal to your connection.
Just a small tip when splicing wires stagger them. This will keep the bulk out and keep the wires tighter together. Especially if you have to feed the wires through grommets or tight spaces. Great job!!! I have cut outs too (Manual) on my vette I need electric cutouts now!!!
Another small tip or at least confirmation of theory there is a very good reason for crimping and splicing opposed to soldering. Soldering creates a hard contact point that the vibration of vehicles can cause rapid failure of the wiring. The crimps allow to wire to maintain flexibility so the vibration has less of an impact.
@@ericthecarguy Your splice is fine.. especially for what it is for. I reserve solder for splicing a wire on something critical. At connector.. use new OEM crimp terminal. If to much solder is allowed to flow into wire.. yes it can travel up the wire and make it "brittle". This also has to do with the amount of flux. A little goes very far.
I like that when you make a small mistake, or even a not so small one, you admit it and show it. Being a fallible human myself, I feel more of an akin to you than some of the others. Between that and your easy to listen to affect, I really like your channel and appreciate your videos. Thank you and keep up the good work.
@@frankvandendool882 - you can't afford a nitrous kit, can you? Sad. And so I guess forced induction is for people who lack driving skills too, by your logic?
My buddy had a Fairmont in highschool.. Im 42 now. We called it the fairmonster. Also had two 12" subs in the back. It was his grandmas before she passed. Cool car.
@Blazer02LS I didn't know that. I've had em on my G8 for 7 years and have never heard anything about em being illegal. Probably been closed a total of 5 minutes in that 7 years.
Look at your states vehicle laws. Most have it somewhere in them that modification of the exhaust to increase the noise level is illegal, many specifically say that exhaust cut-outs and straight pipes are prohibited. Here are 3 examples of the 49 states that have restrictions. The only state that doesn't list them is Vermont Alabama - Code Title 32. Motor Vehicles and Traffic. § 32-5-216 (a) Every motor vehicle shall at all times be equipped with a muffler in good working order and in constant operation to prevent excessive or unusual noise and annoying smoke, and no person shall use a muffler cut-out, bypass, a muffler without baffles, or similar device upon a motor vehicle on a highway. Illinois - Sec. 12-602. Mufflers, prevention of noise. Every motor vehicle driven or operated upon the highways of this State shall at all times be equipped with an adequate muffler or exhaust system in constant operation and properly maintained to prevent any excessive or unusual noise. No such muffler or exhaust system shall be equipped with a cutout, bypass or similar device. No person shall modify the exhaust system of a motor vehicle in a manner which will amplify or increase the noise of such vehicle above that emitted by the muffler originally installed on the vehicle, and such original muffler shall comply with all the requirements of this Section. North Carolina - (b) It shall be unlawful to use a “muffler cut-out” on any motor vehicle upon a highway.
I have a vacuum powered cutout and it's A LOT more reliable than standard QTP style cutouts as it uses air to push it open and closed. The first and second motors in the electric cutout that I used to have burned out in maybe a month or two while this new vacuum powered cutout hasn't missed a beat for several months. Plus, it doesn't leak nearly as much and even better, it was only around $100 off Amazon.
The new one is what’s called a “butterfly valve”. I was surprised at the old one because the old one was way too complicated. The new one with the butterfly makes so much more sense.
I was just thinking the other day, "I would like loud pipes, but I would miss being super quiet when I wanted to be quiet. Wish there was a valve you could turn or something." And there we go, it's real. Out of my price range, but real.
Back in the 60s we would weld on 4 inch down dumps on each side of the engine and use threaded pipe caps on the outlets. I know not automatic but they worked good.
I had some cutouts on my 1964 GTO convertible with a 421 Super Duty engine. I built my own that used choke cables. turned a beast into a real monster!!! that was in 1971!
Eric, RRP will sell you turn downs just like you made. You just have to call them. RRP is lifetime warranty too. I bought a set 4 years ago and one somehow went bad and was blowing 20 amp fuses. called them and they advanced shipped one out to me, brand new. Got the new one before i even got the chance to send out the bad one. They even threw in some shirts and stickers.They also have a wireless kit you can open and close them with a wireless remote. Ive got a set with the wireless kit for my 2014 Challenger with a built 392 that has a 2.9 whipple on it. Its mighty loud ;)
When you said the screws on the butterfly valve could vibrate out I have the idea that you could use some threadlocker red. This is the strongest threadlocker and has to be removed with heat. This is the kind of threadlocker you typically use on things like main bearing caps and Rod bolts internally inside of an engine so it should be permanent and withstand the heat of the exhaust. If you were to remove or just back off a little on the screws of the butterfly valve and add a little bit of the threadlocker red before you put it all together then you probably wouldn't ever have to worry about the screws vibrating out. Just an idea, $3 or $4 for a little tube of threadlocker red that's cheap insurance. This way you would never have to worry about taking them back off the car and trying to repair them once installed they would be good for the life for the exhaust. Your work is excellent. Great video. God Bless You and Your Family!! Jimmy in NC....
Greetings, Videos! German car tuners that build exhaust cutouts that actually bypass the last muffler (not the middle one[s]) and that works in such a way that the exhaust still exits through the same tailpipe, so there is an actual bypass that it gets routed around the muffler and back into the exhaust pipe.
My 2000 Accord Ex-V6 had factory dual mufflers, with a single pipe that splits near the right-rear tire, just in front of the mufflers. So I cut it, keeping only the left-side, after Y-joint. Then I installed a straight pipe with a splitter followed on the right side, by an e-cutout and the exit (a turn-down). On the left it used (several) reducers to get from 2.5" to the stock (left) muffler. Then I built a control system that tapped the wire for VTEC solenoid control (by the ECM). So it ran like stock, until VTEC. Then WFO, until I slowed, and it would calm, too. Some cars come with their own split personality, but we muffle them.
Had a similar mod on my old Silvia. Was great when sitting in traffic or leaving a quiet neighbourhood at night. It was more a valve in the exhaust that opened and closed which basically had it sit on an angle depending on how loud you wanted it. 1st-quiet af, more than halfway closed 2nd-slightly louder than 1st. 3rd-fully open straight pipe sound.
PA state safety and emissions inspection mechanic / HD diesel and mining equipment mechanic here to offer my 2 cents... 1) butt connectors are on par with soldered connections if done correctly, no need to explain yourself for using them. 2) tape is not for weatherproofing 3) you wont be welding for a pipeline anytime soon :'D 4) thoroughly enjoy the vids, keep em' coming!
That race ready cutout opens pretty fast for that style. My QTP cutout of the same style takes a few seconds to open. However the additional gear reduction in the QTP also seems to keep it shut under load which it sounds like the race ready one might have issues with based on when you said that it opens slightly if you get on it. I've also experienced the pain of making a turndown fit the cutout bolt pattern, where I ended up taking a 3" hole saw to the block-off plate that came with my y-pipe.
I put the same style of cut outs on my car and I love em. The one thing I did different with my exhaust was, When my cut outs are open my exhaust comes straight out of the headers 3” all the way with and 18” pipe extension and my exhaust pipe/muffler Y’s off with the 2.5”. I mean who cares if there is another bend in the exhaust pipe but when I want to race I want the exhaust coming straight out. I wish I could post a picture off what I had done. It was all custom built. It’s beautiful
@@AMCguy you have it easy, in germany and austria you could potentialy go to prison if you drive without a catalytic converter. I said potentialy because most of the time it will only result with a criminal charge for tax evasion and like a 3000€ fine
I would have done a lot of things different but I cant knock you for trying, and I really like how you teach people how you do stuff. I'm a qualified diesel mechanic myself and I also do alot of electrical work. A bit of advice, dont twist the wires before you put them into the connectors you want them to actually crimp with the plug, when they're twisted it doesnt grab as good. I prefer solder but that's just me.
Just a friendly terminology tip from a welder/fabricator. When you are plasma cutting it is called "dross" not slag. Sorry for being a stickler for vocabulary, great video Eric.
I had this done when I put a 3" exhaust, front to back (Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster 10 series muffler and 3" tailpipe) on my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 V8. Small switch on my console next to the shifter. Run it wide open on the highway. LOVE the sound.
I put one of these on a 1992 Ford Taurus SHO a few years back. Definitely recommend it to all other SHO owners. Make your car sound like an Indy car with a flip of a switch.
They leak for a few reasons: no gasket on the butterfly valve and high pressure due to the Y joint always putting exhaust flow into the closed valve. You could theoretically help a LOT with leakage by having a valve with a gasket and/or also having the valve built into the Y splitter at an angle so that when it's closed the air is routed down the exhaust path better... I wonder how much back pressure is being added to the exhaust when the valve is closed due to reflection off the valve.
I think you'd melt the gasket the first time you got on it with the vale open. Honestly, you don't really notice it much, but I did feel it was worth mentioning. Thanks for the comment.
Nah, you wouldn't melt an exhaust header gasket. That's what they're made for. Anyways, also, having at least press bent, if not mandrel bent pipes would help as well.
My 2012 Vett came stock with a set of butterflies so I simply wired in a clean looking switch to provide manual control of exhaust tone and any HP and fuel economy available. Much easier than diving into the fuse box to make the adjustment. But, I noticed the butterfly valve was very robust; however, I don’t have any thing to compare it to but it was solid and seemed to have less points for corrosion or accumulation of carbon.
This is proof my phone is listening to me. I mentioned to my brother that i was planning to mod my car to do this. Look what i find in my recommendations.
I'm sure that would help some in my car but my exhaust is really free flowing. My 02 WS6 Trans Am is running ceramic coated hooker long tubes that then connect to the TSP 3" catless y-pipe (no inspections in SC) and then after the y-pipe it runs to a full 4" exhaust with a spintech muffler after the merge in the t-pipe. Huge increase in exhaust flow comapared to the factory Exhaust system. I just did free mods and ported and polish the MAF and Throttle body. I used slp smooth bellows just for a better tube to mount my nitrous nozzle. I did the real ram aIr setup despite having the WS6 ram already its alot more air coming in compared to the factory set up. Once I had the exhaust very free flowing and the intake side taken care of and all emissions junk removed I added a 150 shot. I'm so confident in how it runs I dint even bother with a tune. My A/F ratio stays right and it doesn't ping. The spintech is great with my set up. No raspy sounds on a rev and no popping coming off a rev. Great exhaust setup for LS1 f-bodies. My car was box stock in 2012 with 33k miles on it and street tires an no mods it ran 12.8-12.7s fully stock. It now gas all the free mods, all the emission crap removed, full intake and exhaust work, and a 150shot. Despite factory suspension which is trash now. I run m/t ET streets 10.5" on 17s and it runs 10.8s@127mph and I dont even spray until second gear. I keep my launches around a 2.0 60 ft time to keep the factory 10 bolt alive. Full exhaust, free mods, nitrous, and drag radials are all it takes to get a stock ls1 engine to run low 11s in a full weight 02 WS6 Trans Am. My car is also a fully loaded option car. Electric windows, seat, leather seats, 6 speed manual with the "Hurst option, which is likely just a shifter knob. Yall know what fully loaded is. Mine has every option that I have seen or heard of. Great cars to go fast for real cheap. Not much room for cut outs because my factory height car still bottoms out and scrapes the exhaust quite often.
That is why you have similar joiners like Eric used that crimp then heat up for solder flow and waterproofs with the glue+ heatshrinks at the same time...
I have done both and in the worst condition wiring on heavy duty very leaky hydraulic hammer lots of vibration hot the crimp type slipped apart but I youse the crimp type now it’s important to rich the right pressure so a Ratchet type crimp-per is needed this and good quality connectors and your set !
I normally solder and then use at least 3 layers of heat shrink to stop the joint from flexing too much. To waterproof it, use heat shrink that has glue or put hot glue under the heat shrink right before heating it
To us oldtimmers those things are known as exhaust dumps. And were not as sophisticated we just cut a hole in the headers and put a spring loaded flap on a hinge with a cable atached to another choke knob on the dash .
My dad had the screws back out on his exhaust cutout last week. Luckily we found the flap that fell out lol. I would recommend welding the screws on the cutout flap or welding the flap to the rod itself so it won't fail ever
Dude, are you missing the end of your pinky on your right hand? I lost the end of my ring finger to cancer last year. 20 years of guitar on hold now. But it's pretty normal for people who work with their hands to have missing digits. But at the end of the day you are defined only by what you allow. Anyway, I love your videos. It gives me drive to do more work to my truck myself instead of paying a mechanic.
NOTE: True the ECU can adjust for the air flow difference, but only in closed loop operation. But under hard acceleration, it goes open loop and only runs as the map says. If you tune it with closed exhaust, it will be lean in open exhaust. Or vice versa. (Unless your ECU is hooked up to switch to a different map each time you throw the open exhaust switch.and is able to do so. Some don't.)
I recognize that heat gun: The Harbor Freight special! I was tempted to get one myself because I like how you can stand it on end and use both hands for the work piece to be heated. But at around $8.00, I'm more afraid of this thing throwing off asbestos particles than getting a tool bargain. I came of age in the early '80's when a lot of dudes used blow dryers on their feathered hair-doos. Blow dryers were notorious for blowing out asbestos from the insulating material used around the heating elements. Asbestos was perfectly fine for use in consumer goods then. Stuff from China, I'm still very wary of in this present day.
Eric you really are a cool dude I watch your videos all the time man I manage a company's Fleet over a hundred Vehicles plus John Deere tractors I maintain for 5 years by myself very stressful the good kind your videos have helped me throughout the years I appreciate it brother would love to see the shop one day man that would be awesome!!!!!
Thank you! Sadly, I don't do Meet Ups anymore because I no longer have the space. However, I do travel the country going to different car shows and have mini Meet Ups. Keep an eye on my social media for dates and locations. I hope to meet you at one of them someday.
I don't have social media brother unfortunately...you never thought of expanding and hiring other mechanics and I get it no meetups there's some wackos out there but rest assure I'm a hard-working young kid that learn a trade I'm in the suburbs of New York what state are you based out of
That exhaust system you put in the Fairmont is so freaking dope I got a 2017 Jeep Wrangler I was thinking of putting a rips supercharger in it with a similar exhaust system you think I could get away with it
Pull up along side a Ricer with it closed , then as the lights are about to change , open it ,. and floor it . This would be better along side a BMW or Audi as well .
Exhaust cutouts are great but there are automatic ones easily available online. They will actuate under manifold vacuum or boost. I have one on my Mazdaspeed 6. A single 3" pipe goes to 2 mufflers at the rear. One is the standard Mazda muffler, always in play. The second is a 3" straight through muffler actuated via the boost operated cutout. The cutout opens up under turbo boost and it works really well.
I remember in my youth when exhaust cut outs were just for attention grabbing at the cruise in. My friend had one on his car at the drag strip. He was almost ridiculed to death.
Oh Eric there was a sparkle in your eye when those cut out opened... I don’t blame you either I giggled like a little school girl when I heard them open as well.
I was a journeyman collision tech back in the day at a Ford dealer when Fairmont's were new... a Fairmont sleeper,, now thats something i've never seen before..
The plasma's 'slag' is called dross and is usually easily remove by dragging across the edge of your steel workbench top or any wide steel tool. I use a 2x5 steel cement margin trowel which is also great for splatter and BBs when using flux-core outside and it tucks neatly in a back pocket. It makes a great scraper as well and was only about 3 dollars at home depot/Lowe's, etc...
Sir can you please Dyno run it with the valve closed and then opened theoretically it must decrease the back pressure and thus increase hp but I really want to see that happening...thankyou
I watched a video and they dino tested both open and closed. Very little difference at the car they tested it on already had exhaust upgrade though headers etc.
Good work. ERIC!. buddy...next time you wanna use a box cutter to strip insulation cutting in the direction of your fingers, lemme know so I can look away first. lol
I'm sooooooo mad I thought you quit youtube like a year ago and youtube unsubscribed me but then I see this in my recommended vids f*%$# SO MUCH CONTENT IVE MISSED
I put home made manual cutouts on my FE powered '65 Galaxie (see avatar) in '97; think I've done 1K quiet miles since then. ;) Mine are basically 3bolt blank-offs that pivot out of the way on one bolt. These electric ones look awesome and I may have to upgrade, thanks to this vid. :)
I would be interested in a video that was compiled solely of sound clips from his car. Valve open, valve closed, waste gate opening, blow off valve if he has one. Any and all of it.
@@jonathangarzon2798 No, the noise is actually from the engine. Diesel "clatter" isn't noise that comes from the exhaust. The sound comes right through the thin metal of the oil pan.
@@jonathangarzon2798 I thought of putting an insulating shield around the oil pan but that oil pan actually dissipates a lot of heat, something I need at the moment.
The Granatelli cutouts don't leak or open up and also have a one press open and close switch. You don't have to hold it. By far the best. I've had mine on for 5 years and still work perfectly no issues.
That smug look when you opened the valve.....I bet you NEVER drive that car with the valve closed....
my thoughts too , Eric is thinking " HELL YES ' , I know I am
Only when he sees the cops
I saw that too!
I saw it and I lmfao
If the cops ever pulled me over for loud exhaust I would immediately shut it. I’d be like “what loud exhaust? “
I want you to bring fairmont videos back. Who’s with me ?! I never got tired of them
Valve closed: Doug Demuro
Valve open: Regular Car Reviews
Big facts
Valve open: my poooooooooooop is broooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooown
@NPC#6789 Orange Man Bad Yes bröther.
truth!!!
LOUD AND BROWN
WINGA DINGA WINGA DINGA WINGA DINGA WINGA DINGA WINGA DINGA WINGA
So your old one had “muffler bearings” then? 🥴
Why does this not have more likes?
Underrated comment of the year LOL
H@H That it did! Why didnt I catch that!?
Holy crap. You just dropped the mic.
Now we’re left with blinker fluid
Jack Peltzel lol I remember joking about that as a kid hahaha so they really do exist. Lmbo
You know what Eric, I was just thinking to myself that in order to be a successful youtube video blogger such as yourself you need to humble and be able to have thick skin. I've noticed that you've handled criticism very well and haven't fed the trolls or stooped to a level such as them. Now I'm not calling everyone that has an issue with your video or disagrees with you a troll but there are times when people get rude and downright disrespectful and you haven't given them a soapbox.
To me, being able to remain professional, respectful and calm when being criticized is a very important key for success. And I think people need to take note of this and see why he's amassed such a loyal following. When compared to all the other guys that were on the pull-a-part challenge I think Eric gets the most amount of criticism and I believe he handles it exceptionally well.
Thank you!
Well said, friend. I concur
Personally I had problems with the gear drive on the valve application. I decided to go with the pneumatic actuator butterfly .opening through the vacuum from my from my inlet manifold..
I agree, I'm all about crimping. I used to use the ones you shown in the video, but found that I had better success with using non-insulated butt connectors and then following it up with marine grade heat shrink tubing. the benefit of marine grade heat shrink tuning is that it is lined with adhesive, which provides a weatherproof seal to your connection.
Just a small tip when splicing wires stagger them. This will keep the bulk out and keep the wires tighter together. Especially if you have to feed the wires through grommets or tight spaces. Great job!!! I have cut outs too (Manual) on my vette I need electric cutouts now!!!
+
Another small tip or at least confirmation of theory there is a very good reason for crimping and splicing opposed to soldering. Soldering creates a hard contact point that the vibration of vehicles can cause rapid failure of the wiring. The crimps allow to wire to maintain flexibility so the vibration has less of an impact.
The splice should have been inside the vehicle to keep it out of the weather/vibration.
Great suggestion.
@@ericthecarguy
Your splice is fine.. especially for what it is for.
I reserve solder for splicing a wire on something critical. At connector.. use new OEM crimp terminal.
If to much solder is allowed to flow into wire.. yes it can travel up the wire and make it "brittle". This also has to do with the amount of flux. A little goes very far.
I like that when you make a small mistake, or even a not so small one, you admit it and show it. Being a fallible human myself, I feel more of an akin to you than some of the others. Between that and your easy to listen to affect, I really like your channel and appreciate your videos. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Instant smile button, right there in the dash :)
I thought that was the Nitrous button? )))))))))))
@@SashaZvyagin Nitrous is for people that can't drive!
@@frankvandendool882 - you can't afford a nitrous kit, can you? Sad.
And so I guess forced induction is for people who lack driving skills too, by your logic?
@@SashaZvyagin hahaha tell em!!!
This man actually needed his muffler bearings replaced.
This is the cleanest, crispest look automotive channel i have seen. Your recording equipment must be top notch.
The sound it makes when open it hilarious for this sleeper car. The smile that comes to your face when open is priceless.
Yes! The look on your face when you openned it up for this first time. Perfect.
Thank you Eric. Thank you Chris fix. Thank you Scotty kilmer. What an age we live in
I wonder if my neighbor will fund this for me
Lol ,that's a good one!!
Hahahahahaha
I'm sure mine would lol open heads now for 6years
Nope I wont
My buddy had a Fairmont in highschool.. Im 42 now. We called it the fairmonster. Also had two 12" subs in the back. It was his grandmas before she passed. Cool car.
Cool how those dash buttons are of the same style as the rest of the dashboard.
That was the plan! Thanks for noticing.
Go with BadlanzHPE! 5 year warranty, best customer service, ZERO leaks or rattles!! Better cost than QTP, etc
as some one that does welding for a living this was not as cringy as i thought it would be. great job man
I'd put those in my car and just leave them open all the time, except for about 10 minutes every two years
Im pretty sure these are also illegal in some places
Pretty much all places.
@Blazer02LS I didn't know that. I've had em on my G8 for 7 years and have never heard anything about em being illegal. Probably been closed a total of 5 minutes in that 7 years.
there are cars that have this from factory, but you cannot actuate it manually, it automatically open depending on the traveling speed.
Look at your states vehicle laws. Most have it somewhere in them that modification of the exhaust to increase the noise level is illegal, many specifically say that exhaust cut-outs and straight pipes are prohibited.
Here are 3 examples of the 49 states that have restrictions. The only state that doesn't list them is Vermont
Alabama - Code Title 32. Motor Vehicles and Traffic. § 32-5-216
(a) Every motor vehicle shall at all times be equipped with a muffler in good working order and in constant operation to prevent excessive or unusual noise and annoying smoke, and no person shall use a muffler cut-out, bypass, a muffler without baffles, or similar device upon a motor vehicle on a highway.
Illinois - Sec. 12-602. Mufflers, prevention of noise.
Every motor vehicle driven or operated upon the highways of this State shall at all times be equipped with an adequate muffler or exhaust system in constant operation and properly maintained to prevent any excessive or unusual noise. No such muffler or exhaust system shall be equipped with a cutout, bypass or similar device. No person shall modify the exhaust system of a motor vehicle in a manner which will amplify or increase the noise of such vehicle above that emitted by the muffler originally installed on the vehicle, and such original muffler shall comply with all the requirements of this Section.
North Carolina - (b) It shall be unlawful to use a “muffler cut-out” on any motor vehicle upon a highway.
I’ve been running my cutout same style as your race ready for 3 years now no issues I love it. Great video
I have a vacuum powered cutout and it's A LOT more reliable than standard QTP style cutouts as it uses air to push it open and closed. The first and second motors in the electric cutout that I used to have burned out in maybe a month or two while this new vacuum powered cutout hasn't missed a beat for several months. Plus, it doesn't leak nearly as much and even better, it was only around $100 off Amazon.
Link?
Interested in this!!
The new one is what’s called a “butterfly valve”. I was surprised at the old one because the old one was way too complicated. The new one with the butterfly makes so much more sense.
Yeetur McBeetur yet old was more efficient
wont the new one leak and cause it to fail inspection? or am I wrong?
I was just thinking the other day, "I would like loud pipes, but I would miss being super quiet when I wanted to be quiet. Wish there was a valve you could turn or something."
And there we go, it's real. Out of my price range, but real.
Patrick Earthridge jc whitney .
cable pull been aroud for decades..cheap
Finally a big TH-camr doing a video on exhaust cutouts
Back in the 60s we would weld on 4 inch down dumps on each side of the engine and use threaded pipe caps on the outlets. I know not automatic but they worked good.
I had some cutouts on my 1964 GTO convertible with a 421 Super Duty engine. I built my own that used choke cables. turned a beast into a real monster!!! that was in 1971!
Eric, RRP will sell you turn downs just like you made. You just have to call them. RRP is lifetime warranty too. I bought a set 4 years ago and one somehow went bad and was blowing 20 amp fuses. called them and they advanced shipped one out to me, brand new. Got the new one before i even got the chance to send out the bad one. They even threw in some shirts and stickers.They also have a wireless kit you can open and close them with a wireless remote. Ive got a set with the wireless kit for my 2014 Challenger with a built 392 that has a 2.9 whipple on it. Its mighty loud ;)
When you said the screws on the butterfly valve could vibrate out I have the idea that you could use some threadlocker red. This is the strongest threadlocker and has to be removed with heat. This is the kind of threadlocker you typically use on things like main bearing caps and Rod bolts internally inside of an engine so it should be permanent and withstand the heat of the exhaust. If you were to remove or just back off a little on the screws of the butterfly valve and add a little bit of the threadlocker red before you put it all together then you probably wouldn't ever have to worry about the screws vibrating out. Just an idea, $3 or $4 for a little tube of threadlocker red that's cheap insurance. This way you would never have to worry about taking them back off the car and trying to repair them once installed they would be good for the life for the exhaust. Your work is excellent. Great video.
God Bless You
and Your Family!!
Jimmy in NC....
Greetings, Videos! German car tuners that build exhaust cutouts that actually bypass the last muffler (not the middle one[s]) and that works in such a way that the exhaust still exits through the same tailpipe, so there is an actual bypass that it gets routed around the muffler and back into the exhaust pipe.
Interesting can you link an example.
Yeah we call what's in this video a "dump pipe" since it just dumps the exhaust right after the cut out.
My 2000 Accord Ex-V6 had factory dual mufflers, with a single pipe that splits near the right-rear tire, just in front of the mufflers.
So I cut it, keeping only the left-side, after Y-joint. Then I installed a straight pipe with a splitter followed on the right side, by an e-cutout and the exit (a turn-down). On the left it used (several) reducers to get from 2.5" to the stock (left) muffler. Then I built a control system that tapped the wire for VTEC solenoid control (by the ECM). So it ran like stock, until VTEC. Then WFO, until I slowed, and it would calm, too.
Some cars come with their own split personality, but we muffle them.
Had a similar mod on my old Silvia. Was great when sitting in traffic or leaving a quiet neighbourhood at night. It was more a valve in the exhaust that opened and closed which basically had it sit on an angle depending on how loud you wanted it.
1st-quiet af, more than halfway closed
2nd-slightly louder than 1st.
3rd-fully open straight pipe sound.
Interested in this!!
PA state safety and emissions inspection mechanic / HD diesel and mining equipment mechanic here to offer my 2 cents...
1) butt connectors are on par with soldered connections if done correctly, no need to explain yourself for using them.
2) tape is not for weatherproofing
3) you wont be welding for a pipeline anytime soon :'D
4) thoroughly enjoy the vids, keep em' coming!
Yea, but the more I weld, the better I get. You should have seen when I started. th-cam.com/video/Mtrw7DcUtHg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment.
That race ready cutout opens pretty fast for that style. My QTP cutout of the same style takes a few seconds to open. However the additional gear reduction in the QTP also seems to keep it shut under load which it sounds like the race ready one might have issues with based on when you said that it opens slightly if you get on it. I've also experienced the pain of making a turndown fit the cutout bolt pattern, where I ended up taking a 3" hole saw to the block-off plate that came with my y-pipe.
I put the same style of cut outs on my car and I love em.
The one thing I did different with my exhaust was,
When my cut outs are open my exhaust comes straight out of the headers 3” all the way with and 18” pipe extension and my exhaust pipe/muffler Y’s off with the 2.5”.
I mean who cares if there is another bend in the exhaust pipe but when I want to race I want the exhaust coming straight out.
I wish I could post a picture off what I had done.
It was all custom built.
It’s beautiful
Just keep it closed when the cops are around.
Why? If you're going to take the time to make your exhaust sound like shit, be proud of it even around cops. Don't be a pussy.
@@Blueknight1960 In germany you get fucked by the cops when your exhaust is loud. So it has to be closed when cops are around.
@@Blueknight1960 its a 1000$ fine on the spot for loud exhaust in california
@@AMCguy you have it easy, in germany and austria you could potentialy go to prison if you drive without a catalytic converter.
I said potentialy because most of the time it will only result with a criminal charge for tax evasion and like a 3000€ fine
@@afox5319 why tax evasion??
"this is open" with such a beautiful smile that comes from deep within 😊
I would have done a lot of things different but I cant knock you for trying, and I really like how you teach people how you do stuff. I'm a qualified diesel mechanic myself and I also do alot of electrical work. A bit of advice, dont twist the wires before you put them into the connectors you want them to actually crimp with the plug, when they're twisted it doesnt grab as good. I prefer solder but that's just me.
Can I do both
I have had Doug's cutouts 6 years, work great
Tip, when welding thin stuff, use a piece of wire as a spacer and u won't need to bevel it to get good penetration
M Blake Jr ??
Look up how to butt weld pipes with bevels.. Same concept Blake is talking about. Wire keeps gaps perfect
@@andreslizarde7598 yup, used to weld pipes professional, thin stuff doesn't need a bevel. Especially exhaust
Just a friendly terminology tip from a welder/fabricator. When you are plasma cutting it is called "dross" not slag.
Sorry for being a stickler for vocabulary, great video Eric.
Same as calling GTAW machines tigs, or still calling them tigs when using an active gas such as a helium/argon mix
I did not know that. Thank you.
This is great for when you care about your neighbors at 3 am.
I had this done when I put a 3" exhaust, front to back (Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster 10 series muffler and 3" tailpipe) on my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 V8. Small switch on my console next to the shifter. Run it wide open on the highway. LOVE the sound.
Good to see another Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited owner. Haven’t modded mine a whole lot but love the vehicle.
1st time seeing a portable blade saw. Awesome
I read your comment before I saw the band saw and I was like "what how I work with one everyday" 😂
Your new videos are alot better than your older ones from when you had your old shop in terms of production value.
Thanks.
18:15 - when it’s actually used
I put one of these on a 1992 Ford Taurus SHO a few years back. Definitely recommend it to all other SHO owners. Make your car sound like an Indy car with a flip of a switch.
They leak for a few reasons: no gasket on the butterfly valve and high pressure due to the Y joint always putting exhaust flow into the closed valve. You could theoretically help a LOT with leakage by having a valve with a gasket and/or also having the valve built into the Y splitter at an angle so that when it's closed the air is routed down the exhaust path better... I wonder how much back pressure is being added to the exhaust when the valve is closed due to reflection off the valve.
I think you'd melt the gasket the first time you got on it with the vale open. Honestly, you don't really notice it much, but I did feel it was worth mentioning. Thanks for the comment.
Nah, you wouldn't melt an exhaust header gasket. That's what they're made for.
Anyways, also, having at least press bent, if not mandrel bent pipes would help as well.
My 2012 Vett came stock with a set of butterflies so I simply wired in a clean looking switch to provide manual control of exhaust tone and any HP and fuel economy available. Much easier than diving into the fuse box to make the adjustment. But, I noticed the butterfly valve was very robust; however, I don’t have any thing to compare it to but it was solid and seemed to have less points for corrosion or accumulation of carbon.
Keep them coming eric
This is proof my phone is listening to me. I mentioned to my brother that i was planning to mod my car to do this. Look what i find in my recommendations.
Same
I watched this tripping balls and my god you are the bob ross of cars
If this is true. Might be better then the muffler bearing comment
eric literally everything ive wanted to do to my 80 Z you have made a video on, thank god for you channel
Wake up..drink coffee..run 2 end zone prepare to take the browns 2 Superbowl....and watch Eric turn wrenches nother awesome morning
Or drink coffee while taking the browns to the superbowl
Never heard that one before. 😀
I had a similar thing except the meatloaf from last night should have come with a 12-hours-to-EXPLOSIVE DIARRHEA Warning.
@@YamFZR93 Write the Surgeon General. That would be an epic package warning.
Are you sure you weren't looking into my bathroom window 2 minutes ago , were you? LMFAO, birds of a feather flock together I guess , Right?
I'm sure that would help some in my car but my exhaust is really free flowing. My 02 WS6 Trans Am is running ceramic coated hooker long tubes that then connect to the TSP 3" catless y-pipe (no inspections in SC) and then after the y-pipe it runs to a full 4" exhaust with a spintech muffler after the merge in the t-pipe. Huge increase in exhaust flow comapared to the factory Exhaust system. I just did free mods and ported and polish the MAF and Throttle body. I used slp smooth bellows just for a better tube to mount my nitrous nozzle. I did the real ram aIr setup despite having the WS6 ram already its alot more air coming in compared to the factory set up. Once I had the exhaust very free flowing and the intake side taken care of and all emissions junk removed I added a 150 shot. I'm so confident in how it runs I dint even bother with a tune. My A/F ratio stays right and it doesn't ping. The spintech is great with my set up. No raspy sounds on a rev and no popping coming off a rev. Great exhaust setup for LS1 f-bodies. My car was box stock in 2012 with 33k miles on it and street tires an no mods it ran 12.8-12.7s fully stock. It now gas all the free mods, all the emission crap removed, full intake and exhaust work, and a 150shot. Despite factory suspension which is trash now. I run m/t ET streets 10.5" on 17s and it runs 10.8s@127mph and I dont even spray until second gear. I keep my launches around a 2.0 60 ft time to keep the factory 10 bolt alive. Full exhaust, free mods, nitrous, and drag radials are all it takes to get a stock ls1 engine to run low 11s in a full weight 02 WS6 Trans Am. My car is also a fully loaded option car. Electric windows, seat, leather seats, 6 speed manual with the "Hurst option, which is likely just a shifter knob. Yall know what fully loaded is. Mine has every option that I have seen or heard of. Great cars to go fast for real cheap. Not much room for cut outs because my factory height car still bottoms out and scrapes the exhaust quite often.
Solder vs. crimp: The Holley folks have a video(s) out there that goes in depth about why crimp is better than solder in most automotive applications.
If you do it right, it doesn't matter what method you use. They both have pros and cons
That is why you have similar joiners like Eric used that crimp then heat up for solder flow and waterproofs with the glue+ heatshrinks at the same time...
Anti seize of some kind?
I have done both and in the worst condition wiring on heavy duty very leaky hydraulic hammer lots of vibration hot the crimp type slipped apart but I youse the crimp type now it’s important to rich the right pressure so a Ratchet type crimp-per is needed this and good quality connectors and your set !
I normally solder and then use at least 3 layers of heat shrink to stop the joint from flexing too much. To waterproof it, use heat shrink that has glue or put hot glue under the heat shrink right before heating it
Even if for some reason i was watching this without any sound the smile on your face when you opened the actuator would have told us everything.
Love that wordplay in the title
To us oldtimmers those things are known as exhaust dumps. And were not as sophisticated we just cut a hole in the headers and put a spring loaded flap on a hinge with a cable atached to another choke knob on the dash .
That beard is looking good
He looks like the "fuck her in the pussy" guy
i thought the same thing!
You like a man with a beard, eh?
mine is getting there, although a lil more gray in mine ;)
@Little Miss Sunshine "Girls do it better"
This video is great! I need to set this up on my Subaru to keep the family happy on road trips and me happy when i'm by myself!
@EricTheCarGuy Have you considered a "Loudvalve"? No wiring or switches needed. They automatically open at 6-7 #s of boost.
So a spring actuated dump valve, can you link or give the brand to one I like the idea
My dad had the screws back out on his exhaust cutout last week. Luckily we found the flap that fell out lol. I would recommend welding the screws on the cutout flap or welding the flap to the rod itself so it won't fail ever
5:40am and theres a new Eric the car guy video!
Dude, are you missing the end of your pinky on your right hand? I lost the end of my ring finger to cancer last year. 20 years of guitar on hold now. But it's pretty normal for people who work with their hands to have missing digits. But at the end of the day you are defined only by what you allow. Anyway, I love your videos. It gives me drive to do more work to my truck myself instead of paying a mechanic.
Sweet beard... another great vid, duder.
@@X11CHASE no u
NOTE: True the ECU can adjust for the air flow difference, but only in closed loop operation. But under hard acceleration, it goes open loop and only runs as the map says. If you tune it with closed exhaust, it will be lean in open exhaust. Or vice versa. (Unless your ECU is hooked up to switch to a different map each time you throw the open exhaust switch.and is able to do so. Some don't.)
I think the audio would be better if you showed it outside. All we hear is the echo off your walls.
sniff, sniff, do you need a tissue?
@@hanskinslo326 he has a point moron.
Did you watch the end of the video?
@@ericthecarguya drive by would have been excellent
I can hear him just fine
I recognize that heat gun: The Harbor Freight special! I was tempted to get one myself because I like how you can stand it on end and use both hands for the work piece to be heated. But at around $8.00, I'm more afraid of this thing throwing off asbestos particles than getting a tool bargain. I came of age in the early '80's when a lot of dudes used blow dryers on their feathered hair-doos. Blow dryers were notorious for blowing out asbestos from the insulating material used around the heating elements. Asbestos was perfectly fine for use in consumer goods then. Stuff from China, I'm still very wary of in this present day.
your "quiet" mode is louder than my cat delete no muffler SUV
My favorite part was the snap-on "flank drive plus" wrenches. Best in the business!
Dang that sounds good I’m gonna have to look into installing one on my car
Eric you really are a cool dude I watch your videos all the time man I manage a company's Fleet over a hundred Vehicles plus John Deere tractors I maintain for 5 years by myself very stressful the good kind your videos have helped me throughout the years I appreciate it brother would love to see the shop one day man that would be awesome!!!!!
Thank you! Sadly, I don't do Meet Ups anymore because I no longer have the space. However, I do travel the country going to different car shows and have mini Meet Ups. Keep an eye on my social media for dates and locations. I hope to meet you at one of them someday.
I don't have social media brother unfortunately...you never thought of expanding and hiring other mechanics and I get it no meetups there's some wackos out there but rest assure I'm a hard-working young kid that learn a trade I'm in the suburbs of New York what state are you based out of
That exhaust system you put in the Fairmont is so freaking dope I got a 2017 Jeep Wrangler I was thinking of putting a rips supercharger in it with a similar exhaust system you think I could get away with it
Pull up along side a Ricer with it closed , then as the lights are about to change , open it ,. and floor it . This would be better along side a BMW or Audi as well .
That's exactly why I installed it.
A man with a plan can Jerry-rig anything. Great video.
Cool invention. Really need one of this.
Exhaust cutouts are great but there are automatic ones easily available online. They will actuate under manifold vacuum or boost. I have one on my Mazdaspeed 6. A single 3" pipe goes to 2 mufflers at the rear. One is the standard Mazda muffler, always in play. The second is a 3" straight through muffler actuated via the boost operated cutout. The cutout opens up under turbo boost and it works really well.
I remember in my youth when exhaust cut outs were just for attention grabbing at the cruise in.
My friend had one on his car at the drag strip. He was almost ridiculed to death.
I like the fact Eric admits the mistakes he makes!!!
Most guys doing vids like this, or any type of fubar edits it out, no one is perfect!!!
Oh Eric there was a sparkle in your eye when those cut out opened... I don’t blame you either I giggled like a little school girl when I heard them open as well.
I was a journeyman collision tech back in the day at a Ford dealer when Fairmont's were new... a Fairmont sleeper,, now thats something i've never seen before..
Xforce varex makes mufflers with built-in butterfly valve
Controlled by ur phone, switch or remote
The plasma's 'slag' is called dross and is usually easily remove by dragging across the edge of your steel workbench top or any wide steel tool. I use a 2x5 steel cement margin trowel which is also great for splatter and BBs when using flux-core outside and it tucks neatly in a back pocket. It makes a great scraper as well and was only about 3 dollars at home depot/Lowe's, etc...
Sir can you please Dyno run it with the valve closed and then opened theoretically it must decrease the back pressure and thus increase hp but I really want to see that happening...thankyou
I watched a video and they dino tested both open and closed. Very little difference at the car they tested it on already had exhaust upgrade though headers etc.
Great video! I watched the whole thing even thought I have no intention of installing one for myself. Eric, your videos are always on point.
Good work. ERIC!. buddy...next time you wanna use a box cutter to strip insulation cutting in the direction of your fingers, lemme know so I can look away first. lol
tell me about it, I had visions of slashed fingertips!!
I'm sooooooo mad I thought you quit youtube like a year ago and youtube unsubscribed me but then I see this in my recommended vids f*%$# SO MUCH CONTENT IVE MISSED
Back in the 60's' we called them drag pipes
I put home made manual cutouts on my FE powered '65 Galaxie (see avatar) in '97; think I've done 1K quiet miles since then. ;) Mine are basically 3bolt blank-offs that pivot out of the way on one bolt. These electric ones look awesome and I may have to upgrade, thanks to this vid. :)
You don’t think that maybe the bolt that was loose was what was actually making noise ?
Loose bolts make other types of sound
JASON JACKSON never would have heard it over the engine
@@daleleibfried8648 I couldn't hear the noise eric was talking about.
My 12 year old is so happy you are back. So am I.
I wish you lived in Mass, I'd literally hangout in your shop all day on my down time lol
I made mine out of a throttle body and it work pretty good
I would be interested in a video that was compiled solely of sound clips from his car. Valve open, valve closed, waste gate opening, blow off valve if he has one. Any and all of it.
Walker Ashcraft 😂😂😂
I've been looking for a setup like this for a while now. That's so sweet that this exists!
I wish I could do that with the diesel. Problem is most of the noise the diesel makes does not come from the exhaust. Comes from the engine itself.
You mean the noise comes from the outside of the motor instead of the inside?
@@jonathangarzon2798 No, the noise is actually from the engine. Diesel "clatter" isn't noise that comes from the exhaust. The sound comes right through the thin metal of the oil pan.
@@consaka1 ah okay got it, never looked into exhausts for deisels so was wondering
@@jonathangarzon2798 I thought of putting an insulating shield around the oil pan but that oil pan actually dissipates a lot of heat, something I need at the moment.
I have Quick time performance Cut-outs on my 2015 SRT Challenger, made a huge difference
I think I will install a muffler bypass pipe with a valve like this in it, not really liking the idea of a cut-out.
@9600GTMAN Oh right, that too
Your face when you switched it open! Priceless!
Will this work on my tesla?
No it only works on good cars
ikke 123 😂😂😂
The Granatelli cutouts don't leak or open up and also have a one press open and close switch. You don't have to hold it. By far the best. I've had mine on for 5 years and still work perfectly no issues.