The Crank Position Sensor (just above the dip stick entry point) could also be the cause of your oil leak in the front of the engine. There is an o-ring that should be replaced every time you are in front end service mode.
FYI... There are TWO bleeder points for the coolant. The first is on the top hose (where you bled it from) and the second is on the thermostat housing, an 8 or 10mm bolt, just crack the bolt a little till the water comes out, same as the front one.
Great videos. Just the content I’ve been looking for. Thinking of buying a r53 for a project track car and you are certainly giving the correct content, liking the fact you are doing all this on your drive/back garden. Keep it up 👍
Did you check the gears. The water pump gears are an issue on occasion.if seals fail bearings can go bad. On TH-cam look for Memphis (More boost for R53reduction pulley + broken supercharger fix
Great to watch, but when you landed the supercharger on the pulley on brick, I thought "OUCH" as that pulley and shaft is all very fragile and needs to be protected at all costs.
Great videos thank you. In hindsight would you have done supercharger service and timing chains at same time - would it have saved time/effort. Just about to get my first r53 and will be doing both jobs. Thanks
Thank you for watching and you comment! I always planned on servicing the supercharger before I changed the timing chain. It would have saved time doing both together but I don’t think a huge amount as I didn’t need to strip the front of the car to change the chain. Good luck with changing your chain and servicing 👍
Great video mate, I am off to look at an R53 tomorrow and the supercharger service is top of the list of things i want to do for peace of mind. This is very insightful of all the work required. Did you get to the bottom of your problem?
Thank you! Yes, got it sorted in the end! Biggest difference was made by changing the fuel filter and bypass valve, although the bypass valve seemed fine when I first checked it!
@@ManTimeT.V. fuel filter is under the back seats mate. There are a few vids on here of how to change it. The bypass valve was easy enough too, you have to remove the throttle body before you can wriggle off the right hand side supercharger horn, which it's attached to
I did it over a couple of days, and didn’t really keep track of time! At a guess, I’d say about 3.5 hours. Luckily everything come undone easily with no issues
No man, don't do it like this guy. He has trouble to open bottle with child safety lock, how he can fix something on his car :/ . He didn't use any lube for gaskets, dry puhsing the waterpump in to flange so he 90% damaged the new gasket, never used torque wrench etc. He didn't vented the bottom of the engine so 15 000 kms and two cylinders will be burnt..... This is not mechanic, this is just "mechanic" like somewhere at Romania.
@@eklapsczneubauer7289 'He didn't vented the bottom of the engine' he didn't appear to bleed coolant from the screw next to the thermostat housing is that what you mean?
Just look at the exhaust manifold back through the exhaust. That system is moving way too much for my liking and noises like that could be simple mechanical fixes. Do the KISS principle and tackle the most easy things first. Let somebody rev it and listen/look for yourself and locate the ticking sound. Let me know if you find something, ok? The fact that the tick comes after the revs go down tells me its not a full turnaround part like a pulley or crank.
The Crank Position Sensor (just above the dip stick entry point) could also be the cause of your oil leak in the front of the engine. There is an o-ring that should be replaced every time you are in front end service mode.
FYI... There are TWO bleeder points for the coolant. The first is on the top hose (where you bled it from) and the second is on the thermostat housing, an 8 or 10mm bolt, just crack the bolt a little till the water comes out, same as the front one.
Great videos. Just the content I’ve been looking for. Thinking of buying a r53 for a project track car and you are certainly giving the correct content, liking the fact you are doing all this on your drive/back garden. Keep it up 👍
In spite of not fixing the issue but another mega job off the list. Cracking job 👍 i haven't skipped vids so no spoilers lol
Did you check the gears. The water pump gears are an issue on occasion.if seals fail bearings can go bad.
On TH-cam look for Memphis
(More boost for R53reduction pulley + broken supercharger fix
Great to watch, but when you landed the supercharger on the pulley on brick, I thought "OUCH" as that pulley and shaft is all very fragile and needs to be protected at all costs.
Great videos thank you. In hindsight would you have done supercharger service and timing chains at same time - would it have saved time/effort. Just about to get my first r53 and will be doing both jobs. Thanks
Thank you for watching and you comment! I always planned on servicing the supercharger before I changed the timing chain. It would have saved time doing both together but I don’t think a huge amount as I didn’t need to strip the front of the car to change the chain. Good luck with changing your chain and servicing 👍
Cheers. You managed to stay calm through it I imagine I will have skinned knuckles and lots of swearing and thrown spanner’s :)
Great video, thank you
Thank you!
Great video mate, I am off to look at an R53 tomorrow and the supercharger service is top of the list of things i want to do for peace of mind. This is very insightful of all the work required. Did you get to the bottom of your problem?
Thank you! Yes, got it sorted in the end! Biggest difference was made by changing the fuel filter and bypass valve, although the bypass valve seemed fine when I first checked it!
@@olliesgarage that's good to know mate, glad you got it running right 👍
@olliesgarage where is the fuel filter located on these? Was the bypass valve hard to change out?
@@ManTimeT.V. fuel filter is under the back seats mate. There are a few vids on here of how to change it. The bypass valve was easy enough too, you have to remove the throttle body before you can wriggle off the right hand side supercharger horn, which it's attached to
@FistOfTheNEast thanks dude! Good to know!
Brilliant video il be doing this my self once the weather gets better , just one question tho how long did it take you to complete the job !??
I did it over a couple of days, and didn’t really keep track of time! At a guess, I’d say about 3.5 hours. Luckily everything come undone easily with no issues
No man, don't do it like this guy. He has trouble to open bottle with child safety lock, how he can fix something on his car :/ . He didn't use any lube for gaskets, dry puhsing the waterpump in to flange so he 90% damaged the new gasket, never used torque wrench etc. He didn't vented the bottom of the engine so 15 000 kms and two cylinders will be burnt..... This is not mechanic, this is just "mechanic" like somewhere at Romania.
@@eklapsczneubauer7289 'He didn't vented the bottom of the engine' he didn't appear to bleed coolant from the screw next to the thermostat housing is that what you mean?
Crank position sensor o-ring needs replaced
Could it be the crank shaft pulley (harmonic balancer) or the clutch bearing
Unfortunately it’s all guess work
I will look into it!
Or try taking off the serpentine belt and check for any clicking noise
Is it the cam chain tensioner 🤔
It has already been changed. If you look at a previous video, I changed the complete timing chain, guides, tensioner, gears etc
Take the aux belt off and run it. When the belt tensioner goes it knocks. Run it with out the belt and it will stop if it is.
Thanks, I’ll give it a try! 👍
Did you already try to cleanup the adaptive values with INPA software?
No, haven’t tried that
@@olliesgarage try it! you will be surprised by the results ;)
Just look at the exhaust manifold back through the exhaust. That system is moving way too much for my liking and noises like that could be simple mechanical fixes. Do the KISS principle and tackle the most easy things first. Let somebody rev it and listen/look for yourself and locate the ticking sound. Let me know if you find something, ok? The fact that the tick comes after the revs go down tells me its not a full turnaround part like a pulley or crank.