Yea seems to be a common issue, I’ve got the twiddly knob inside to fix soon too. I prefer my Beemer’s usually to Merc but saying that, it’s still a nice car though. And a Happy Easter back at you G.
great video as usual ,,, often in that situation I take a picture of the part before I start , it makes a handy reference if you need it further down the line ,,,, also on a technical point , your not meant to twist the wires before you crimp them they are meant to go into the connector straight ... its to do with creating peaks and it messing with power transfer or so Im told , it was an aircraft tech that told me ,, I twist them too though. Happy New Year.
Tah pal. Yea I don’t usually twist them with B connectors because the crimp splits the wire into 2 sections more neatly if you don’t, and it leaves the connector a bit more flexible. I twisted the earth wire here cos it was a little bit oxidised so the copper was a little bit brittle. I do normally twist the wires most of the time though, like with the butt connectors cos it just seems to give a stronger connection.
Good work. This'll help. I need to switch the side of my fog light. Just got to work out which wire it is now and how I can extend it and run it to the other side.
V.helpful ...my left had side cluster had just gone - thought it might be water related (given recent storms). Now noticed that its a burnt earth on left. RHS was also burnt but someone has previously rewired that. I have a 2nd mercedes of the same model, so will check that also. But good to know how to fix. 👍
I have just sorted this on my mate's Mercedes C220 W204. The total draw on all of these bulbs if they were to be on simultaneously is 9.4A. The 5 large bulbs draw 1.8A each an the 1 side lamp bulb draws 400mA. So you're not going to have any issues with the individual lamp circuits fro a current perspective. But how likely is it, you might ask, you're going to have all of the lamps on at any given time? Not likely. So I don't think it's necessarily a matter of under spec cable for the ground wire. It's not like they all have this problem. If it was you would expect the same issue on the other side of the car. In my mate's case it is just on the left cluster. I think the problem is the crimping on that wire. Too tight. Squashes the copper to such an extent that it reduces the cross sectional area of the cable and therefore dramatically increases the resistance at that point and thus the heat damaging the cable. So I decided to upgrade the brown ground wire to 20A cable and solder the connector to the cable instead of crimping. Just on that cable. I then spliced that new cable to the original brown cable using a WAGO splicer which is good for 32A. Probably a little bit of overkill. A decent crimp on the original brown wire would probably be fine. I just wanted to make sure it didn't happen again given it's my mate's car not mine. Anyway. Thanks for the video.
I’d be surprised if you had any more issues with that then lol. I think the issue is caused by heat build up from resistance of a poor connection. Either the female connector being too loose on the male one and making and breaking the connection slightly with vibrations, or more likely just that the connection has gone bad from oxidisation over time.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yes. I just think you have to be a little more vigilant when it's someone else's motor. Those connections are fragile as hell. It's important to use the right tool as you have in the video. I bought one just like it.
Another video out there points out that the burned ground wire is a common problem. The brown wire is too thin for the current it carries, so it's likely to burn again (in time). He supposedly created another video showing how to replace that brown wire with a larger gauge and ground it elsewhere (I haven't found it).
Its this one .. MB (USA and Canada) was forced to do a recall on 284K C-Class's. Its nuts that MB didn't do the recall to other parts of the world. th-cam.com/video/yBeKlptAnHM/w-d-xo.html
Nice video pal. Is it worth grounding the new unit to stop this from happening again. Looks like a common fault/design fault. The wires are too small for the a current. When I ordered new unit that was fine around 38 quid. But the spade connectors came with wires as they said they don't sell the connectors separately. This cost me another 36 quid just for that. Was very upset. The connector block was around 3 quid. Nice that unit comes with bulbs. Now I gotta solder the new wires as not spades we're supplied separately and too long to decrimp. I will follow parts of your methods. Nice one pal. Also I emailed Merc to see if there were any recalls as this is a common safety fault. I just received a recall for the airbag unit.
I have no reverse lights on this model c180 2008 manual gear box, the swich for reverse was change and steel no reverse lights, any fuse ore cable issues? Thanks
It’s often best to disconnect the battery when doing electrical work, but in this case I just left it connected as the wiring I was working on was turned off so had no power to it at the time anyway.
Thanks for this video, I just wanted to confirm if it’s possible to pull the pins from the old connector and plug into the new connector. And then just fix the earth only instead of cutting all of them and crimping them before fixing them to the new connector. Thank you
Hi mate, yea it is possible do that if you manage to get them out without damaging them, but then the wires all end up different lengths and can strain the connector.
Hi there I’m having some trouble sourcing all the parts in the video, would you mind listing all the parts I need to order to sort out this issue please I’d be very grateful as I have the same issue on the same back rear right of my C Class, many thanks
I think the part numbers are in the vid at some point, but it was just purchased direct from Mercedes dealers. Just asked them for the plug and connectors.
Hey firstly thank you for the video, i have exactly the same problem. Where did you buy the replacement stuff? Or at least could you please tell me what the exact name of them are.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideoshello what did you ask for ? I’m having the same issue , when you went to Mercedes what part did you ask for ? I just need the silver metal bits
@@MMKYT1 something along the lines of “rear right lamp will loom repair kit”. I thought I’d shown the part number in the video, but I my have not shown it well enough to read 🤔
Not sure where they came from originally but they are B crimp type tool. There are better ones available for not much money to be honest. This should do the same job www.amazon.co.uk/mxuteuk-Crimping-Pliers-26-16AMG-Terminals/dp/B08JHJGBSF?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AX9MVVUOG9GEQ
The number was damaged/unreadable when I got the item but I believe the plug is A2115450328 and the pins are A0135457626 but that might not be right. If you type in “w204 rear light connector” into eBay, there’s a lot of choices that come up for full kits with the connector and the pins for around £10
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I still had to put a new plug and cluster in though, it had melted to the point of almost setting the car on fire. and comparing ebay and mercedes prices for those parts taught me a lot about mercedes. Had 3 C classes so far and the problem was on every one of them.
The ground wire is way too small, l the gauge that is, so a thicker wire is needed to handle the amps otherwise it over heats and starts to melt everything. Soldering a new brown, earth wire will remedy the issue.
Have you trie the bulb? Brake lamps usually just have one fuse for both sides, so if the other side is working then I doubt it’s the fuse. Still worth checking though.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos no I haven't tried the bulb but now that I fixed that problem it caused my left side marker is off. I just might drop off to dealer. Dammit. Me and a friend will try at it again and dealer will be last option.
There’s normally a little hook/barb on the terminal that locks onto the plastic surround. Needs to be released with a pin or something similar as the wire is pulled out from the back
![USA Showcase: CANADA vs USA [OFFICIAL STREAM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m9Cz3xsdDgc/mqdefault.jpg)
Very common problem with W204s. I had to replace both sides on mine, more than once!
Happy Baby Jeebmas sir. 👍
Yea seems to be a common issue, I’ve got the twiddly knob inside to fix soon too. I prefer my Beemer’s usually to Merc but saying that, it’s still a nice car though.
And a Happy Easter back at you G.
Mines gone in the exact same place. Great vid, thanks for the help
Glad it helped mate.
Another technical masterpiece Sir Tim 👍
Cheers mate
great video as usual ,,, often in that situation I take a picture of the part before I start , it makes a handy reference if you need it further down the line ,,,, also on a technical point , your not meant to twist the wires before you crimp them they are meant to go into the connector straight ... its to do with creating peaks and it messing with power transfer or so Im told , it was an aircraft tech that told me ,, I twist them too though. Happy New Year.
Tah pal. Yea I don’t usually twist them with B connectors because the crimp splits the wire into 2 sections more neatly if you don’t, and it leaves the connector a bit more flexible. I twisted the earth wire here cos it was a little bit oxidised so the copper was a little bit brittle. I do normally twist the wires most of the time though, like with the butt connectors cos it just seems to give a stronger connection.
Good work. This'll help. I need to switch the side of my fog light. Just got to work out which wire it is now and how I can extend it and run it to the other side.
Make them both work 🤷♀️
Dieser Mann hat Geschmack!
Es ist das Auto meiner Mutter
V.helpful ...my left had side cluster had just gone - thought it might be water related (given recent storms). Now noticed that its a burnt earth on left. RHS was also burnt but someone has previously rewired that. I have a 2nd mercedes of the same model, so will check that also. But good to know how to fix. 👍
Yea it’s a common issue on these!
I have just sorted this on my mate's Mercedes C220 W204.
The total draw on all of these bulbs if they were to be on simultaneously is 9.4A.
The 5 large bulbs draw 1.8A each an the 1 side lamp bulb draws 400mA.
So you're not going to have any issues with the individual lamp circuits fro a current perspective.
But how likely is it, you might ask, you're going to have all of the lamps on at any given time?
Not likely.
So I don't think it's necessarily a matter of under spec cable for the ground wire.
It's not like they all have this problem.
If it was you would expect the same issue on the other side of the car.
In my mate's case it is just on the left cluster.
I think the problem is the crimping on that wire. Too tight.
Squashes the copper to such an extent that it reduces the cross sectional area of the cable
and therefore dramatically increases the resistance at that point and thus the heat damaging the cable.
So I decided to upgrade the brown ground wire to 20A cable and solder the connector to the cable instead
of crimping. Just on that cable. I then spliced that new cable to the original brown cable using a WAGO
splicer which is good for 32A.
Probably a little bit of overkill. A decent crimp on the original brown wire would probably be fine.
I just wanted to make sure it didn't happen again given it's my mate's car not mine.
Anyway.
Thanks for the video.
I’d be surprised if you had any more issues with that then lol. I think the issue is caused by heat build up from resistance of a poor connection. Either the female connector being too loose on the male one and making and breaking the connection slightly with vibrations, or more likely just that the connection has gone bad from oxidisation over time.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yes. I just think you have to be a little more vigilant when it's someone else's motor. Those connections are fragile as hell. It's important to use the right tool as you have in the video. I bought one just like it.
Another video out there points out that the burned ground wire is a common problem. The brown wire is too thin for the current it carries, so it's likely to burn again (in time). He supposedly created another video showing how to replace that brown wire with a larger gauge and ground it elsewhere (I haven't found it).
It is a common issue. Adding an extra earth between the earth of the cluster and the body of the car should future proof the issue
Its this one .. MB (USA and Canada) was forced to do a recall on 284K C-Class's. Its nuts that MB didn't do the recall to other parts of the world.
th-cam.com/video/yBeKlptAnHM/w-d-xo.html
Nice video pal. Is it worth grounding the new unit to stop this from happening again. Looks like a common fault/design fault. The wires are too small for the a current. When I ordered new unit that was fine around 38 quid. But the spade connectors came with wires as they said they don't sell the connectors separately. This cost me another 36 quid just for that. Was very upset. The connector block was around 3 quid. Nice that unit comes with bulbs. Now I gotta solder the new wires as not spades we're supplied separately and too long to decrimp. I will follow parts of your methods. Nice one pal. Also I emailed Merc to see if there were any recalls as this is a common safety fault. I just received a recall for the airbag unit.
Hi mate. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to run a separate earth. This had the same recall for the airbag too.
I have no reverse lights on this model c180 2008 manual gear box, the swich for reverse was change and steel no reverse lights, any fuse ore cable issues? Thanks
It could be a a few things. Most likely a wiring issue to be honest.
I did what you done replaced the whole thing with pin and passenger side top light is flicking on off any help on this ?
Sounds like you have a bad connection, could be the bulb binder but most likely one of the little connectors isn’t pushed in all the way
Do you have to disconnect the battery for plug work, or wait till all electrics go off?
It’s often best to disconnect the battery when doing electrical work, but in this case I just left it connected as the wiring I was working on was turned off so had no power to it at the time anyway.
Hi were you getting a warning light on the dash regarding this issue ? Thanks
Some warning lights for failed bulbs iirc but not 100% sure tbh.
Hi, is it possible to change the entire connector without having to worry about rewiring the connector?
Probably only by cutting and joining all the wires
Where did you buy the Cluster by chance? I can't find it in Australia - is it only a place in Europe/UK that sells?
All the parts came direct from Mercedes dealership
Thanks for this video, I just wanted to confirm if it’s possible to pull the pins from the old connector and plug into the new connector. And then just fix the earth only instead of cutting all of them and crimping them before fixing them to the new connector.
Thank you
Hi mate, yea it is possible do that if you manage to get them out without damaging them, but then the wires all end up different lengths and can strain the connector.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thank you soo much. Really appreciate
Hi there I’m having some trouble sourcing all the parts in the video, would you mind listing all the parts I need to order to sort out this issue please I’d be very grateful as I have the same issue on the same back rear right of my C Class, many thanks
I think the part numbers are in the vid at some point, but it was just purchased direct from Mercedes dealers. Just asked them for the plug and connectors.
Would this help on a 2010 c300 left side?
Should be pretty much same process tbh
Can anyone tell me what size crimpers I need for this? I bought all the parts and a pair of crimpers but they are too big.
They are B crimps. I’m not sure what size they would be called but most B crimp tools have a few different size jaws on them
Hope you hoovered up the debris left in the boot ??
Nah, just picked up the bits with me fingers.
Hey firstly thank you for the video, i have exactly the same problem. Where did you buy the replacement stuff? Or at least could you please tell me what the exact name of them are.
You’re very welcome, the parts came direct from Mercedes themselves.
Is it the same for the led/facelift model?
I’m not sure, but LED’s should never draw enough power to damage the wiring in this way anyway
Is there any way i can do this with out b crimps?
You could solder it
Same issue with my W204. Where did you order the OEM part from please?
Got it from the Mercedes dealership, wasn’t expensive either
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideoshello what did you ask for ? I’m having the same issue , when you went to Mercedes what part did you ask for ? I just need the silver metal bits
@@MMKYT1 something along the lines of “rear right lamp will loom repair kit”. I thought I’d shown the part number in the video, but I my have not shown it well enough to read 🤔
Where did you get the light kit from?
It came from Mercedes, but I don’t know the part number 😔
Replaced mine but rear lights and brake not working... Fuse for those doesn't seem to be on the fuse diagram either.. weird one
Both sides?
What’s the name of the black piece itself ?
You mean the shaft?
Harness Clip Plug or Harness Pigtail
Very helpful video, Amigo! Where do you normally buy parts from ?
Thanks mate. My dad got the parts for this, but I think they actually came direct from Mercedes 🤔
Where do you get the crimpers
Not sure where they came from originally but they are B crimp type tool. There are better ones available for not much money to be honest. This should do the same job
www.amazon.co.uk/mxuteuk-Crimping-Pliers-26-16AMG-Terminals/dp/B08JHJGBSF?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AX9MVVUOG9GEQ
Hi there I have the same problem with my Mercedes can I bring it over to you? Where about is your garage. I'm in Manchester.
Hi mate. I’m in Oldham but I don’t work on cars apart from families. It’s not a hard job to do yourself though
What exactly was that orange tool you used to cut the wire?
You mean the side cutters?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yea because the actual wire cutters are a bit pricey out here atleast 30$ just for the smallest one
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos can I use household scissors ?
@@Stackztee143 probably, it’s only thin wire
Does anyone know the part number to the wire connecter A 01 3450 7?
The number was damaged/unreadable when I got the item but I believe the plug is A2115450328 and the pins are A0135457626 but that might not be right. If you type in “w204 rear light connector” into eBay, there’s a lot of choices that come up for full kits with the connector and the pins for around £10
Tim i need mines doing but don’t know who to got to
If you’re not confident to do it yourself, maybe a garage will sort it for you? Independent Mercedes specialist probably best to try
If you are anywhere near Birmingham pal i’d pay you to do it. Hardly any garages want to take on this Job as they say it’s an electrical issue 🤷🏽♂️
I just soldered some house hold mains wire from that earth on cluster to body earth and never had it happen again.
Fair enough, I’d have likely done the same if it was my own car
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I still had to put a new plug and cluster in though, it had melted to the point of almost setting the car on fire.
and comparing ebay and mercedes prices for those parts taught me a lot about mercedes.
Had 3 C classes so far and the problem was on every one of them.
Very helpful, where did you purchase the parts from?
Cheers, bits were direct from Mercedes.
Ok thank you
@@hosscortezfam5383 aliexpress I bought for 2 euros bro with connectors
do you or anyone have a link to where i can buy the product
No sorry, I didn’t get the part but I believe it came direct from Mercedes as a repair kit
The ground wire is way too small, l the gauge that is, so a thicker wire is needed to handle the amps otherwise it over heats and starts to melt everything. Soldering a new brown, earth wire will remedy the issue.
Yes that’s correct mate
I replaced mines but didn't fix so I'm thinking it's the fuse now but can't find which fuse and where. Anybody know? Left brake lamp.
Have you trie the bulb? Brake lamps usually just have one fuse for both sides, so if the other side is working then I doubt it’s the fuse. Still worth checking though.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos no I haven't tried the bulb but now that I fixed that problem it caused my left side marker is off. I just might drop off to dealer. Dammit. Me and a friend will try at it again and dealer will be last option.
Did you sort it mate? I replaced mine but has the same errors coming although the lights all work? Do you have to system reset or anything ?
Would love to get the connecter part #
You mean the repair piece?
It is, it was available direct from Mercedes when the video was made
How do I de pin?
There’s normally a little hook/barb on the terminal that locks onto the plastic surround. Needs to be released with a pin or something similar as the wire is pulled out from the back
What is the part number for the connector?
I don’t know. It was a Mercedes part and came direct from them if I remember correctly, but may no longer be available?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Ok no Problem. I am from Germany so I hope the part is still available here.
we're you get the parts
They came direct from Mercedes as far as I can remember
Can you not just unplug plugs from the adapter and only wire the earth wire ???
Yes, that’s an easy way to do it tbh
just the video i needed, thanks for uploading this, you wouldn't know how to remove the chrome grille on a 2008 clc 200 coupe would you lol?
Sorry mate, not something I’ve done as of yet
Ahhh shit on it.. can't seem to find anything on it, need to wrap the bitch lol.. cheers though mate, that video fixed my faulty lights right up 👍👊
@@stalfie_7020 hammer?
Same issue same side identical damage...Bingo!
Hope the vid helped you sort it out
There is a recall on that
Not heard anything about that, are you sure?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yes mine was done they replaced the wiring harness and the backplate
Only in USA and Canada
Not as well built as the Citroen C1 pal👍
Most certainly isn’t pal