I just finished this job using your video on my '01 Road King. I got to admit, it did take me considerably longer than your 1 hour 17 minute video. This procedure video was one of the best I have ever seen, ever. I went step by step with you all the way to the end. Came out perfect. First, I'd like to thank you for doing such a complete job, with all the torque specs and advice. Secondly, I'd like say I truly hope you continue making tutorial videos like this one, for other involved yet typical maintenance jobs on stock bikes. You truly are The Wizard.
Brad, as a fellow mechanic (30 plus years aircraft, motorcycles and cars) you are very thorough, and you really clean things well before you reassemble. If I needed my Harley worked on, you would be my man!! Thanks for the video, I learned a lot, keep them coming!
Smiling! 2000 ultra classic, stater went out. I had to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a 5 ft cheater bar to break the compensator nut loose. Factory had put a 1 inch strip of red Loctite from one end to the other of that nut. Pain to clean it out as you would Imagine. Replaced that stator 4 times in 80,000 miles last time with the 3 phase system. and it's still working. For a young guy your pretty dog gone good. 60 + years of riding and do most of my own work and I am impressed Sir.
BRAD, That was the most concise explanation on how to...complete the job.i do my own work by watching these videos..and am a proud owner of a 1994 FWDWG .THANK You my freind...
Great step-by-step video. I just finished this job yesterday thanks to your video. When I went to remove the main shaft and compensator nuts, they were a little stubborn. I purposely reversed the impact wrench for a few seconds to tighten each nut, then reversed it again and the nuts spun right off. Thanks again for the video. My 1999 Road King Classic has been dripping for years!
I just want to say I just completed this trask and with your technique seem like everything went well. I rode it around my street, and no leaks .I followed your instructions to the teeth, torque and cleaned threads , I did noticed a chain nosie as soon I started but went away in like 4 seconds , scared me for a second , I did go with a inner primary sealed bearing kit . TIP to clean out the comp and clutch bold I used a drill and a wire brush similar to a baby bottle cleaning brush worked like a charm
Brad, thanks for making these videos! They are the most detailed ones I think on TH-cam. You saved me a lot of money and gave me the confidence to wrench on my bike! Thanks again. Keep the channel alive! Best I have seen by far! Thanks!
my only complaint is that "twin cam" in the title, kept me from finding this earlier, it's just about identical to my Evo '95 FLHTC. Tools and techniques I wish I had known earlier! Thank you thank you thank you!
Take it to a dealer and you will never get this kind of attention to detail. A mechanic being this meticulous would be told by the supervisor to just "Get on with it already, just do what you have to do to get it out the door!" Fortunately, I have located a local Harley mechanic who is that meticulous and opened up his own one man shop. Great work, great video, and great dedication to excellence!
Thanks for the video! Had one of the Allen bolts back out of my drive belt pulley cover plate and dig into the inner primary. Your video saved my hundreds of dollars. Great help!
I uploaded the Gasket and Seals 🦭 Part numbers for everyone 1994-2006 so you don’t have to chase down part numbers thanks for the helpful video brad very informative
Brad, You are my kind perfectionist, I watched your video from start to end, I hope our children and the next generation will be blessed with people like you, thanks for an enjoyable time.
Nice job but, I would get rid of the main shaft race and, install a HT bearing eliminating the race and, potential race walk towards the transmission causing the race to be pressed against the bearing and seal, if it gets that far it is a PITA to remove but, nice job all together 👍
All I can say is thank you because I got to tell you this is the best video to watch for this procedure the guys to the point he laid out the tools ahead of time you can't lose by watching this one I got my whole bike apart and back together and I'm not a mechanic so this was the ultimate tutorial thank you again
Entertaining.. I wasn't even interested in learning this (nor would I try it) but I was so impressed with the care you took and the thorough cleaning that my OCD self couldn't stop watching!! Liked & subscribed! Cheers!✌️😎
Thank you finally found a good video my bikes been sitting for 3 months. Watched it all took notes soon i should have my bike running thanks brother blessing to you
That is the reason it costs so much to get things worked on in a shop is: Labor is not just man hours, it is all those tools that you do not have. Have you heard of the snap on man? The SNAP on MAN. That goes to every shop? You know what works, it is cool. You do amazing thorough work. Keep it up.
Awesome tutorial! Best I have seen on this job. I have a 99 Classic that I have to accomplish very soon. Thank you for making this available to us non professional mechanics!
I followed this video and was able to do this job on a 1995 heritage. Would not have tackled the job without it. My local harley dealer had all the parts in stock.
Brad, you are the man! Finally someone with the attention to detail like myself that I can follow but a wealth of knowledge of this machine I do not have. Thank you!
@@wellaitsaniice3307 I'm sorry I misunderstood. I thought you meant you did not have the machine as in bike. Road Kings are nice. I have an Ultra Limited but almost got a Road King myself.
Hi Brad...Nice work brother!!! Im an Ironhorse (Slammer) owner. Love the efficiency and professionalism you bestow in your videos. The lack of background noise with clean voice overs is also a nice touch. Cheers
GREAT Video! Sorry I found it a little late. I will defiantly return BEFORE I work on my bike again. I agree with all the impressive comments. KEEP them coming THANKS
Just watching all the parts seals and points of failure in the primary really makes me reconsider ever going with the Harley brand. Great and informative video
Thank you so much for this very detailed and educational video. I am in the process of doing the same job my self, I almost missed the shifter seal if it was not because of this video I would probably have missed it. Also special thanks for the tips on how to install the seals using ordinary sockets. Thanks again, I hope my thumbs ups helps you as much as you have helped me!
Excellent video!! I like the fact that you are a stickler for detail, it pays off to be that way. I have learned that the hard way working on automatic transmissions. Thanks for all your videos.
Drilled the hole and screwed in the metal screw for the shifter seal, then went and checked on a slide hammer. All the slide hammer tools around here are 5 lbs and fine threaded. Took a pair of channel locks around the screw of the vice grips and popped the channel locks back to get the seal off.
Great videos. I use heat shrink tubing on splined shafts to apply seals. Lightly shrink it and leave some foreskin so you can pull it off. (plus it's reusable)
Brad, I always used a plumbers pipe wire brush (for copper pipe interior cleaning) to get the loktite out of the compensator nut and clutch hub nut. Worked very well. Still use it on the clutch hub nut but have since mad a thread chaser out of a 7/8-14 x 3 bolt and dremeling the reliefs in it. Works even better. Keep up the videos, they are a good resource for people.
Good job brother I can do my primary with my eyes closed, that being said it would take me forever and now watching how you did it takes no time at all 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Hey! Thank you so much for this vid. I just completed this, and when I fire the bike, the starter is just making a noise, but not engaging. The jackshaft was difficult to engage, when installing the nut seemed to free spin, and I had to really compress the assembly to get the threads to catch.
You are an excellent technician. Very thorough and careful with your work which is very admirable. I'd let you work on my Harley any day of the week except Sunday. I ride on Sundays.
Brad .... so happy your back to making videos.. always impressed with your style of mechanics ... your honest and true descriptions of repairs and/or installs. keep them coming .. Cheers Andy
Hello Brad thanks to this fabulous Video i used this to repair my 2005 Touring, without Your help i didńt Get it Thanks a lot Greetings From Germany Stefan
Wow!! Wish you were in my area! I would not have a second thought of any work performed by you on my Bike!!!! Attention to detail is spot on!! Great video glad I found your channel… just picked up my bike for the exact work done and can’t figure out how! But my primary sounded horrible, o we merry says that’s just your clutch. I say never sounded like that before.. rode home 18 miles!! And pulled primary myself to inspect what was going on. And some how jack bolt came out of starter shaft with locking tabs bent in place. ?????? Called shop and he says what? So anyway loved your video just hard to find loyal and thorough mechanics.. thanks for sharing..
Very well done. Learned a few tricks that are worthwhile.. Couple minor things. 1. You don't show cleaning of the crank or mainshaft threads. I use a wire brush and cleaner. I do the same for cleaning the nuts as you. Hooked scribe. 2. Really the only places you need to add the ultrablack on the case is around the bolt holes where the bolts are inside the case. You missed the 2 front ones. Additionally on dynas and softails, there is one lower bolt that needs ultrablack on the threads. Stuff I do different. 1. I like to put the pulley on first then hang the U shaped puller on the shaft after getting close with the inner primary bearing race. 2. I use the old bolt on the shift arm but a little blue on the threads and grease under the head. The issue really isn't the screw backing out but keeping the arm tight on the shaft. The problem is that the arm splines on the arm need to bed into the shaft splines. the problem is that they aren't checked or tightened enough, which you mention. 3. I use a machined aluminum plate that fits over the main drive gear that is machined to set the seal depth then use the pulley socket to drive the seal in.. 4. I tend to reuse the old bolts and pulley nut if they are in good condition. Not say my way is better, just different. Good stuff I learned. 1. Really like the idea of using an impact for the needed 30-45 degrees instead of fighting with a breaker bar and pulley holder. . Again good video.
i did notice on some six speed harley transmission the shifter pawls do have some play in them, i think thats why those seals develope leak, cuz the only thing ive noticed holding the shift shaft stable is just a bushing and those bushing wear out. my 2015 streetbob has shifter pawl play and it only has 7,600 miles. i learned from you how to change the seal and the shaft bushing.
Great, detailed video again, and great content. So meticulous and detailed at how you perform the work. Would be great if all mechanics operated this way!
Good video as always bro. I believe I have a leaky crank shaft seal in my 01 E. G. Put some dye in my oil and she's lighting up! 52,000 miles on her!! So I may as well do them all & probably the final Drive belt also!! Damn old Harley's, if I could just hit the lotto!!!😊🙏
Yay!!!...A wizard video! The last 2 bikes I've owned that were 5 speeds, I did the Trans shaft race delete and put in a complete bearing in the inner primary. Awesome video!
this vid, like all your vids--- are worth every second. When I work on my bike nowadays, I say to myself "I'm doing this Brad's way" - thanks for doing these vids.
Hey brad,glad your back..best 1hr18 spent.well worth it..the way you did thid vid is perfect..very detailed,calm and no shop noises only your comments..keep up the good work man.
Man you answered every question I had in great detail. Although I do all of our vehicles repairs or maintenance this is my first time being this deep into my 06 Streetglide . Or any bike for that matter , There’s one thing I wish I would’ve had a better understanding of and even though I heard you and every one else all say it I never would’ve thought inside of the walls where the shift shaft seal and basically any other aluminum walls where seals go are so easy to gouge, scratch and damage ! And the shaft teeth too! I managed to get it all done with a small knick back of shift seal cavity . Not where the seal sits so I should be good but it got me wondering what if someone did make a small Knick where it sits . Is that fixable? Or is whole case shot?
It depends on how bad the nick is. If the nick in the aluminum isn't that deap, then I can file it out and blend it into the bore, and it'll be OK. If it's a super terrable gouge the the only thing that can be done is put the new seal in & pack the gouge with JB weld stick. Ive only had to do it once on a case a customer damaged, but it worked out great. Obviously the customer would have to sigh off on it. But it's a last resort before a new case.
I took notes and I’m goin to tackle my inner primary seal I’m not goin full on seal replacement on the gearshift seal and transmission though I’m sure you would recommend it but. I’m goin to stick with if it ain’t broke don’t fix it theory. I’ve used every detail and note wrote down on your vid to accomplish this. No one has a vid on here like this one. I’m doing it on my 03 fxdx. Yours is the only one that comes close to what to do. Thanks. If you have any suggestions for me let me know bike has 14500 miles on it
Would never attempt...but it is fascinating watching you work on the bike. It is a very learning experience on how this part of the motorcycle works. Great video! "⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐.....😎"
th-cam.com/video/p3vnmGP6ULo/w-d-xo.html this is a screaming eagle hydraulic upgrade cam plate video on that era of bike. The oil pump install is the same regardless of spring or hydraulic tensioner so this video should answer your question but if it doesn't. Let me know.
One of the best videos ever, very professional.Love HD bikes and i am ready to buy Electra glide 2001 from a friend watching also your videos to fix it by myself, first time driving&fixing HD in my life.
Hi Brad. I am following your video for inner primary seal replacement. What would be the reason for my mainshaft not turning freely by hand. Thanks for your help. Peter
Excellent video of the Barnett Scorpion assembly..Alot of good "extra"information.. Two thumbs up my man.. My first of your videos.. I'll keep watching !!
The end of the main shaft sticking out of the transmission is splined (that's where the torque transfer happens between the clutch hub and the main shaft) then after the splines the mainshaft is threaded for the nut that retains the clutch hub to the mainshaft. So the location on the mainshaft that the clutch hub seats up to to answer your question is the vertical end of the splines machined into the mainshaft just after the threads. And the part of the clutch hub that locates off this is the back side of a conical washer that's pressed into the clutch hub and says "out" on it.
First off. Great video! For removal of jack shaft oil seal you use a 5/8 socket. I have an 03 TC88. 5/8 is too big. What would be the correct size? Also. It looks like someone used a green adhesive to hold the old one in? Should I apply heat or some kind of solvent before? Thanks.
Maybe the outside diameter of your 5/8 socket is larger than mine, just use the largest socket that'll fit through the primary bore. As for the green material... so the original oil seal harley davidson used had the green type of sealant on it. It was manufactured allready applied to the seal. If your using a new rubber seal like the one I'm using in the video, no green stuff or sealer is necessary as the new seal is updated and has rubber as the sealer.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard My bad. What I thought was part of the case was indeed the metal part of the seal. Once I figured that out, the 5/8 worked and it came right out. Thanks a bunch. Now I can watch the rest of the video and get this thing back together.
have just watched your video very through. Have a question what type of oil you use on the seal before installation. Will be installing the main shaft seal in the next couple days. Would like to use the proper oil for installation. Enjoy watching your videos! I know its been awhile since you posted this video. Thank you
I just use normal 20w50 engine oil. The idea is to keep the seal wet to aid in installation and have oil on it until the normal primary/trans oil gets to it.
Wow you made removing the compensator nut and clutch nut look so easy, without using the 'jam' method using a wooden piece or tool?! how?! :) I honestly dont understand. Im currently gathering intel on how to do this job on a 1995 evo touring.
Espero y me entiendas.gracias por tu video lo disfrute mucho y aprendí mucho más .muy bien explicado .te mando un gran saludo desde México distrito federal y una vez más gracias espero y sigas asiendo muchos más videos así de bien esplicados .
I just finished this job using your video on my '01 Road King. I got to admit, it did take me considerably longer than your 1 hour 17 minute video. This procedure video was one of the best I have ever seen, ever. I went step by step with you all the way to the end. Came out perfect. First, I'd like to thank you for doing such a complete job, with all the torque specs and advice. Secondly, I'd like say I truly hope you continue making tutorial videos like this one, for other involved yet typical maintenance jobs on stock bikes. You truly are The Wizard.
Your welcome. Glad it successfully for you.
Brad, as a fellow mechanic (30 plus years aircraft, motorcycles and cars) you are very thorough, and you really clean things well before you reassemble. If I needed my Harley worked on, you would be my man!! Thanks for the video, I learned a lot, keep them coming!
Thanks, will do!
Outstanding thank you.
stay with aircraft pal
You explain things perfectly and show torque. Direct to the point. Well done.
Thanks
I've referenced this video at least 50 times so far, thank you.
Thanks
Smiling!
2000 ultra classic, stater went out. I had to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a 5 ft cheater bar to break the compensator nut loose. Factory had put a 1 inch strip of red Loctite from one end to the other of that nut. Pain to clean it out as you would Imagine. Replaced that stator 4 times in 80,000 miles last time with the 3 phase system. and it's still working.
For a young guy your pretty dog gone good. 60 + years of riding and do most of my own work and I am impressed Sir.
Thanks
BRAD, That was the most concise explanation on how to...complete the job.i do my own work by watching these videos..and am a proud owner of a 1994 FWDWG .THANK You my freind...
Brad correction 1994 Fxdwg. Thanks again lol I hate spell check..
Sorry Brad. I got the bike definition wrong ,due to spell check. It's a FXDWG 1994.LOL😅
Your welcome. Glad it was a success for you.
Great step-by-step video. I just finished this job yesterday thanks to your video. When I went to remove the main shaft and compensator nuts, they were a little stubborn. I purposely reversed the impact wrench for a few seconds to tighten each nut, then reversed it again and the nuts spun right off. Thanks again for the video. My 1999 Road King Classic has been dripping for years!
Buddy this is far and away the best video on a repair I’ve ever seen. Keep making them brother. Thanks for your time!
Thanks for the compliment!!
Have to say this is one of the most thorough step by step videos I've ever seen on this task.
Thanks.
I just want to say I just completed this trask and with your technique seem like everything went well. I rode it around my street, and no leaks .I followed your instructions to the teeth, torque and cleaned threads , I did noticed a chain nosie as soon I started but went away in like 4 seconds , scared me for a second , I did go with a inner primary sealed bearing kit . TIP to clean out the comp and clutch bold I used a drill and a wire brush similar to a baby bottle cleaning brush worked like a charm
Glad it was successful for you and worked out.
Prettygood video. Brad is a professor of mechanical engineering and very easy to follow installation.
He has very good teaching skills. Thank`s dude!
Thanks for the complement. 👍
Brad great video I got a Softail that had the transmission removed much thanks for helping me put this bike back together correctly
Brad, thanks for making these videos! They are the most detailed ones I think on TH-cam. You saved me a lot of money and gave me the confidence to wrench on my bike! Thanks again. Keep the channel alive! Best I have seen by far! Thanks!
my only complaint is that "twin cam" in the title, kept me from finding this earlier, it's just about identical to my Evo '95 FLHTC. Tools and techniques I wish I had known earlier! Thank you thank you thank you!
Thanks for the comment. Yes. Lots of carry over to an evo.
Clear, systematic, detailed and easy to understand walk thru of how to do the work.
Thanks.
You have a gift for teaching. Organized easy going, point to point. There are many great techs, few that can teach. Well done!
Take it to a dealer and you will never get this kind of attention to detail. A mechanic being this meticulous would be told by the supervisor to just "Get on with it already, just do what you have to do to get it out the door!" Fortunately, I have located a local Harley mechanic who is that meticulous and opened up his own one man shop.
Great work, great video, and great dedication to excellence!
Thanks for the compliment. I work at the dealer tho. Lol
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard😂😂 checkmate!
Thanks a million for the details you included in this video. I appreciate it. Not working on bikes very much. It was a lifesaver
Your welcome.
You really do make the most excellent videos....they are the best, with clear and concise commentary. Thank you from this side of the pond.
Thanks for the compliment.
Thanks for the video! Had one of the Allen bolts back out of my drive belt pulley cover plate and dig into the inner primary. Your video saved my hundreds of dollars. Great help!
I uploaded the Gasket and Seals 🦭 Part numbers for everyone 1994-2006 so you don’t have to chase down part numbers thanks for the helpful video brad very informative
Where did you upload the list thanks
I just updated the video description box with all the part numbers and quantitys ect. Just expand the video description, and it's all at the bottom.
Brad, You are my kind perfectionist, I watched your video from start to end, I hope our children and the next generation will be blessed with people like you, thanks for an enjoyable time.
Thanks for the compliment! I try my best.
By far the best video on how to do this.
Thanks
Nice job but, I would get rid of the main shaft race and, install a HT bearing eliminating the race and, potential race walk towards the transmission causing the race to be pressed against the bearing and seal, if it gets that far it is a PITA to remove but, nice job all together 👍
I haven't had good experiences with the HT bearing. Personally, I prefer the OE race setup. Thanks for the comment.
All I can say is thank you because I got to tell you this is the best video to watch for this procedure the guys to the point he laid out the tools ahead of time you can't lose by watching this one I got my whole bike apart and back together and I'm not a mechanic so this was the ultimate tutorial thank you again
Your welcome. Like and suscribe please & thank you.
You're probably the first video that I liked And subscribe to in a long time and it's my pleasure
I sincerely would like to Thankyou , I finally got my Twincam to stop leaking fluids. Yes ,Thanks to you .
You're welcome! That's good to hear.
Entertaining.. I wasn't even interested in learning this (nor would I try it) but I was so impressed with the care you took and the thorough cleaning that my OCD self couldn't stop watching!! Liked & subscribed! Cheers!✌️😎
Thank you finally found a good video my bikes been sitting for 3 months. Watched it all took notes soon i should have my bike running thanks brother blessing to you
That is the reason it costs so much to get things worked on in a shop is: Labor is not just man hours, it is all those tools that you do not have. Have you heard of the snap on man? The SNAP on MAN. That goes to every shop? You know what works, it is cool. You do amazing thorough work. Keep it up.
Awesome tutorial! Best I have seen on this job. I have a 99 Classic that I have to accomplish very soon. Thank you for making this available to us non professional mechanics!
I followed this video and was able to do this job on a 1995 heritage. Would not have tackled the job without it. My local harley dealer had all the parts in stock.
Great to hear. Thanks.
Brad, you are the man! Finally someone with the attention to detail like myself that I can follow but a wealth of knowledge of this machine I do not have. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment!
Go out and get one. You only live once.
@@12yearssober I have an o6 roadking.
@@wellaitsaniice3307
I'm sorry I misunderstood. I thought you meant you did not have the machine as in bike. Road Kings are nice. I have an Ultra Limited but almost got a Road King myself.
@@12yearssober yeah all good. Had to do the same work to mine. Broke a belt and had to replace seals.
One of the best HD manual vid I have ever seen! Well done and THX!
Thanks for the compliment.
Hi Brad...Nice work brother!!! Im an Ironhorse (Slammer) owner. Love the efficiency and professionalism you bestow in your videos. The lack of background noise with clean voice overs is also a nice touch.
Cheers
By far this is one of the most informative and detailed videos I have seen.
Thanks
GREAT Video! Sorry I found it a little late. I will defiantly return BEFORE I work on my bike again. I agree with all the impressive comments. KEEP them coming THANKS
Just watching all the parts seals and points of failure in the primary really makes me reconsider ever going with the Harley brand. Great and informative video
Ya. There are lots of parts and seals. But if all the seals are replaced correctly they last a very long life.
I love the way you work, and explain things in easy terms. I really appreciated the showing of Jim's tool for removing the shifter shaft.
Great instructional video. Thanks for the tool list & step by step instructions.
Thank you so much for this very detailed and educational video. I am in the process of doing the same job my self, I almost missed the shifter seal if it was not because of this video I would probably have missed it. Also special thanks for the tips on how to install the seals using ordinary sockets. Thanks again, I hope my thumbs ups helps you as much as you have helped me!
Glad it was helpful!
What took him only a few hours took me 3 weeks. Damn the amount of specialty tools and the such you need for a Harley.
I am a little concerned of this happening to me as well
The only comment I can make is: ditto to everyone that wants Brad to work on there Harley!!!! Damn good job on every video I have seen!!
Thanks for the complement!
Yep! We sure missed ya… happy to see the Wizard doin his wizardry!
Excellent video!! I like the fact that you are a stickler for detail, it pays off to be that way. I have learned that the hard way working on automatic transmissions. Thanks for all your videos.
Drilled the hole and screwed in the metal screw for the shifter seal, then went and checked on a slide hammer. All the slide hammer tools around here are 5 lbs and fine threaded. Took a pair of channel locks around the screw of the vice grips and popped the channel locks back to get the seal off.
Great videos. I use heat shrink tubing on splined shafts to apply seals. Lightly shrink it and leave some foreskin so you can pull it off. (plus it's reusable)
Absolutely fantastic video. Going to look into purchasing the more specialized tools and doing it myself, this video provided the confidence.
Brad, I always used a plumbers pipe wire brush (for copper pipe interior cleaning) to get the loktite out of the compensator nut and clutch hub nut. Worked very well. Still use it on the clutch hub nut but have since mad a thread chaser out of a 7/8-14 x 3 bolt and dremeling the reliefs in it. Works even better. Keep up the videos, they are a good resource for people.
That's a good tip.
Good job brother I can do my primary with my eyes closed, that being said it would take me forever and now watching how you did it takes no time at all 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Hey! Thank you so much for this vid. I just completed this, and when I fire the bike, the starter is just making a noise, but not engaging. The jackshaft was difficult to engage, when installing the nut seemed to free spin, and I had to really compress the assembly to get the threads to catch.
You're welcome. I'm glad it helped
You are an excellent technician. Very thorough and careful with your work which is very admirable. I'd let you work on my Harley any day of the week except Sunday. I ride on Sundays.
Thanks for the compliment!
Brad .... so happy your back to making videos.. always impressed with your style of mechanics ... your honest and true descriptions of repairs and/or installs.
keep them coming .. Cheers Andy
Thanks
Wow!! Very detailed, great job! I could have used this video a couple of years ago but have done a few of these jobs since.
Hello Brad thanks to this fabulous Video i used this to repair my 2005 Touring, without Your help i didńt Get it
Thanks a lot Greetings From Germany Stefan
Your welcome.
Wow!! Wish you were in my area! I would not have a second thought of any work performed by you on my Bike!!!! Attention to detail is spot on!! Great video glad I found your channel… just picked up my bike for the exact work done and can’t figure out how! But my primary sounded horrible, o we merry says that’s just your clutch. I say never sounded like that before.. rode home 18 miles!! And pulled primary myself to inspect what was going on. And some how jack bolt came out of starter shaft with locking tabs bent in place. ?????? Called shop and he says what? So anyway loved your video just hard to find loyal and thorough mechanics.. thanks for sharing..
Thanks for the compliment. That's a bummer, at least it doesn't sound that serious. Thanks
Thanks for a great vid! Very thorough , lots of great insight and tips for doing it right the first time!
Thanks
Very well done. Learned a few tricks that are worthwhile..
Couple minor things.
1. You don't show cleaning of the crank or mainshaft threads. I use a wire brush and cleaner. I do the same for cleaning the nuts as you. Hooked scribe.
2. Really the only places you need to add the ultrablack on the case is around the bolt holes where the bolts are inside the case. You missed the 2 front ones. Additionally on dynas and softails, there is one lower bolt that needs ultrablack on the threads.
Stuff I do different.
1. I like to put the pulley on first then hang the U shaped puller on the shaft after getting close with the inner primary bearing race.
2. I use the old bolt on the shift arm but a little blue on the threads and grease under the head. The issue really isn't the screw backing out but keeping the arm tight on the shaft. The problem is that the arm splines on the arm need to bed into the shaft splines. the problem is that they aren't checked or tightened enough, which you mention.
3. I use a machined aluminum plate that fits over the main drive gear that is machined to set the seal depth then use the pulley socket to drive the seal in..
4. I tend to reuse the old bolts and pulley nut if they are in good condition.
Not say my way is better, just different.
Good stuff I learned.
1. Really like the idea of using an impact for the needed 30-45 degrees instead of fighting with a breaker bar and pulley holder. .
Again good video.
Thanks for the comment. Good information to chew on. I apreachate it.
Great comprehensive video! It gives great detail and a real idea of time needed to do a job properly. Thank you for this👍🏻
Thnaks
i did notice on some six speed harley transmission the shifter pawls do have some play in them, i think thats why those seals develope leak, cuz the only thing ive noticed holding the shift shaft stable is just a bushing and those bushing wear out. my 2015 streetbob has shifter pawl play and it only has 7,600 miles. i learned from you how to change the seal and the shaft bushing.
Great, detailed video again, and great content. So meticulous and detailed at how you perform the work. Would be great if all mechanics operated this way!
Thanks for the compliment
Good video as always bro. I believe I have a leaky crank shaft seal in my 01 E. G. Put some dye in my oil and she's lighting up! 52,000 miles on her!! So I may as well do them all & probably the final Drive belt also!! Damn old Harley's, if I could just hit the lotto!!!😊🙏
Jim's makes a really nice main shaft seal driver.
Good video and job! That’s why you get paid Big Bucks
Thank you so much. I got the seal in, based on your comments
Yay!!!...A wizard video! The last 2 bikes I've owned that were 5 speeds, I did the Trans shaft race delete and put in a complete bearing in the inner primary. Awesome video!
Glad you’re back. Clean, clean, clean👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Brad, thank you so much for providing such an informative video. Helped me a ton
All ur videos are awesome, thanks brother.
Thanks
this vid, like all your vids--- are worth every second. When I work on my bike nowadays, I say to myself "I'm doing this Brad's way" - thanks for doing these vids.
Thanks! 👍
Good job!! I can see you take pride in your work.
Thanks.
Hey brad,glad your back..best 1hr18 spent.well worth it..the way you did thid vid is perfect..very detailed,calm and no shop noises only your comments..keep up the good work man.
And no stupid music!
Thanks.
This is an awesome video excellent mechanic you are where are you located I need this exact thing done to my bike
Man you answered every question I had in great detail.
Although I do all of our vehicles repairs or maintenance this is my first time being this deep into my 06 Streetglide . Or any bike for that matter ,
There’s one thing I wish I would’ve had a better understanding of and even though I heard you and every one else all say it I never would’ve thought inside of the walls where the shift shaft seal and basically any other aluminum walls where seals go are so easy to gouge, scratch and damage ! And the shaft teeth too! I managed to get it all done with a small knick back of shift seal cavity . Not where the seal sits so I should be good but it got me wondering what if someone did make a small Knick where it sits .
Is that fixable? Or is whole case shot?
It depends on how bad the nick is. If the nick in the aluminum isn't that deap, then I can file it out and blend it into the bore, and it'll be OK. If it's a super terrable gouge the the only thing that can be done is put the new seal in & pack the gouge with JB weld stick. Ive only had to do it once on a case a customer damaged, but it worked out great. Obviously the customer would have to sigh off on it. But it's a last resort before a new case.
Thanks for the awesome video, one of the best HOW TO's I've seen. Well done!
Thanks
I took notes and I’m goin to tackle my inner primary seal I’m not goin full on seal replacement on the gearshift seal and transmission though I’m sure you would recommend it but. I’m goin to stick with if it ain’t broke don’t fix it theory. I’ve used every detail and note wrote down on your vid to accomplish this. No one has a vid on here like this one. I’m doing it on my 03 fxdx. Yours is the only one that comes close to what to do. Thanks. If you have any suggestions for me let me know bike has 14500 miles on it
Go slow and take your time. It be just like in the video.
Good to see you back.. Thanks
Great video I need the same job completed on my 2001. Just wish I had the tools to get it done.
Would never attempt...but it is fascinating watching you work on the bike. It is a very learning experience on how this part of the motorcycle works. Great video! "⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐.....😎"
Thanks
Thanks Brad, welcome back!
Hey Brad you got one showing the oil pump replacement on that same bike
th-cam.com/video/p3vnmGP6ULo/w-d-xo.html this is a screaming eagle hydraulic upgrade cam plate video on that era of bike. The oil pump install is the same regardless of spring or hydraulic tensioner so this video should answer your question but if it doesn't. Let me know.
Planning on doing this , and this video is on point with information
Thanks
Love the videos AND the narration!!
Keep them coming.
Thanks. Will do.
Sitting here with a tooth ache waiting for morning to come I decide to watch some TH-cam and bam....the Wizard is back! Great Vid and Happy New Year!
Thanks! you too.
One of the best videos ever, very professional.Love HD bikes and i am ready to buy Electra glide 2001 from a friend watching also your videos to fix it by myself, first time driving&fixing HD in my life.
Thanks for the complement! Do it! Get that bike and enjoy the ride and enjoy work. 👍
Hi Brad. I am following your video for inner primary seal replacement. What would be the reason for my mainshaft not turning freely by hand.
Thanks for your help.
Peter
Excellent video of the Barnett Scorpion assembly..Alot of good "extra"information.. Two thumbs up my man.. My first of your videos.. I'll keep watching !!
Awesome video! Just stumbled on your page not doing this job at the moment but really enjoyed watching and listening 😀
Thanks.
Hello Brad hope you are doing well we miss your videos best regards Alan from the UK.
Thanks, you too!
Brad just wanted to thank you for such a great video
Thanks. Your welcome.
Hey Brad, thanks for the helpful video. The question I have is what does the clutch basket shoulder or seat up to.
The end of the main shaft sticking out of the transmission is splined (that's where the torque transfer happens between the clutch hub and the main shaft) then after the splines the mainshaft is threaded for the nut that retains the clutch hub to the mainshaft. So the location on the mainshaft that the clutch hub seats up to to answer your question is the vertical end of the splines machined into the mainshaft just after the threads. And the part of the clutch hub that locates off this is the back side of a conical washer that's pressed into the clutch hub and says "out" on it.
Great to see you back. Missed the videos
Great stuff Brad. Your videos are super informative. Thanks for posting
Brad, great to see a new video! Awesome work on the scoot and video!
just found you Brad! 40+ H D guy, wrencin all the way. GOOD JOB1
Great video of breakdown and install bro!! Appreciate it!!
Appreciate it!
First off. Great video!
For removal of jack shaft oil seal you use a 5/8 socket. I have an 03 TC88. 5/8 is too big. What would be the correct size?
Also. It looks like someone used a green adhesive to hold the old one in? Should I apply heat or some kind of solvent before? Thanks.
Maybe the outside diameter of your 5/8 socket is larger than mine, just use the largest socket that'll fit through the primary bore. As for the green material... so the original oil seal harley davidson used had the green type of sealant on it. It was manufactured allready applied to the seal. If your using a new rubber seal like the one I'm using in the video, no green stuff or sealer is necessary as the new seal is updated and has rubber as the sealer.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard
My bad. What I thought was part of the case was indeed the metal part of the seal. Once I figured that out, the 5/8 worked and it came right out.
Thanks a bunch. Now I can watch the rest of the video and get this thing back together.
Excellent demonstration.
Thanks👍
Glad to have you back. Been too long...
Jesus. I was debating on doing this myself until I saw all the tools needed.
have just watched your video very through. Have a question what type of oil you use on the seal before installation. Will be installing the main shaft seal in the next couple days. Would like to use the proper oil for installation. Enjoy watching your videos! I know its been awhile since you posted this video. Thank you
I just use normal 20w50 engine oil. The idea is to keep the seal wet to aid in installation and have oil on it until the normal primary/trans oil gets to it.
Wow you made removing the compensator nut and clutch nut look so easy, without using the 'jam' method using a wooden piece or tool?! how?! :) I honestly dont understand. Im currently gathering intel on how to do this job on a 1995 evo touring.
Espero y me entiendas.gracias por tu video lo disfrute mucho y aprendí mucho más .muy bien explicado .te mando un gran saludo desde México distrito federal y una vez más gracias espero y sigas asiendo muchos más videos así de bien esplicados .