Thank you for the video! I'm dealing with that exact problem right now, matter of fact,I set up the die grinder just before I came in for dinner. No doubt my main shaft thanks you(so do i)! Thanks again brother!
Excellent tip, thanks!! Also, it was awesome to see you 'hand-turning' the puller instead of using an impact gun. Hand-turning any puller always gets the sleeve or bearing moving much better than an impact which often destroys the puller while leaving the bearing stuck. Obviously, you've learned that long ago too. Much respect, brother.
Thanks for the comment. I always hand turn everything. I like to feel what I'm doing. Only use a impact on things that need a impact. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Using the adjustable wrent to support the puller is something I've never thought of, inspired. Don't get me wrong the rest was damned interesting but that little tidbit pleased me to no end. Not sure why but I do know I'll be looking for ways to apply that concept from now on. Subbed.
Glad you enjoyed it. Yep that puller has a 3/8 end on it. I've never found a 3/8 wrench big enough or strong enough to use. I've used that adjustable wrench on that puller for years. Necessity is the mother of invention. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Hello there! I’ve been watching some of your videos lately and I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge! Very cool! I’m getting ready to remove the transmission internals because I believe it needs to have the pawl shifter replaced because it will miss shift on the 1-2 up shift pretty consistently. My bike is a 2003 Harley FXDL with 42,3XX miles on it. I ordered the parts and tools for the job a couple of days ago and will be getting to work on it soon.
Very glad you're watching and enjoying the videos, hopefully it helps you out on you're project. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Ride safe
Thank you for the video, will be doing this job in a couple days, borrowing a friend's tool. I feel a lot more confident after watching your video. Thanks again man 👍🤜🤛
My old Wide Glide has just been begging for a seal since I bought it a couple years ago. I have a feeling there will be a race involved too, so thanks for the great post! Think it's time to tear into it so people will stop cracking those Harley oil one-liners when I am parked at my meditation area. 😆
Glad you liked the video. If you have a 5 or 6 speed and everything is stock there will be a race that will have to be removed to get to the seals. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
thanks for the video .but i got to the nut on the right side and realized there was something covering the nut....after trying to get that little bitty snap ring of the strange thing from keeping me from getting to the nut ....i happen to pull on it and it just came out of the shaft exposing the nut you said to loosen....and i did and the sleeve horse shoe went right behind and i was then able to get the old race off.....thanks ...
Glad the video helped you. I've not seen a snap ring in front of the pulley nut. That maybe something someone did to try and prevent the race from walking into the 5th gear seal. Thanks for putting that comment up. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
You seem to be the perfect gentleman to ask. On the left hand side of trans is the shift lever and shaft. I believe there is a seal with snap ring and bushing behind that. My question is how is the bushing replaced? Is there a special tool? Does the transmission have to be disassembled to get to the bushing? Any help would be appreciated! The seal is not leaking now but there is play in the shaft. Thanks, Dave
Thanks for the question. There is a tool to remove and install the Carrier Bushing without removing the inner primary and pulling the gear set out. I've seen it done on a 6 speed but have never done it myself. I don't know if it works on a 5 speed. All the transmissions I work on are on the bench, and I remove and install while the trans is apart. I also use a special tool to remove and install the bushing. The tool I use is pretty old and I don't remember where I got it, but I know Jim's Tools sells them. From Jim's it's pricey so you may want to look around for a better price if you're only going to use it once. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Thanks so much for the quick response. I’ve already told many of my mechanical friends about your video and great info. I will be looking into the tools and procedures to get it done. Thanks from Dave and crew!
Will the rubber mallet do the same job on a 6 speed box? Great channel and great videos by the way 👍 thank you for sharing your knowledge it's a fantastic help 🙂
This worked a treat. Thank you for the handy hint with the rubber mallet. Also can I express to everybody not to buy the cheep Chinese bearing remover/installer, I did and it exploded as soon as it was under stress, I had to buy the Jims tool and it worked a treat 👍 Im now about to watch your whole video catalogue on here... Again thank you for the brilliant video tutorials
Glad you liked the videos. The race needs to be changed if the bearing that rides on it goes bad and anytime you have to remove the race to access the transmission, to replace seals or pull the gear set out of the trans. Anytime you remove the race you need to replace it with a new one never reuse the old one. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. Ride safe
Thanks, great info. One of my Harley's is a 2011 Road Glide. Have you ever heard a primary squeal like a car that has a loose alternator belt? It only does it with the clutch engaged (clutch lever not pulled in) during hard acceleration and deceleration.
Yep I've heard and seen it. It could be any number of things. I would first check the adjustment on the final drive belt. If that's not the problem it could be the compensator, primary chain out of adjustment or a bearing is going bad. That would be the order I would check in. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys it's not the belt, when a belt squeaks its like rubbing your finger on a clean plate, mine is more like a metal on metal squeal, I suspect the Compensator plates. I only have two positions on my throttle, off and full. the bike has 49k hard miles. I'm on my third rear pulley,
Hey great video, I'm going to replace that race on my 07 flhtcu, 96 cuin, can you share the puller kit pn or details to save some guess work, and as well, is it common to see pieces of the clutch basket inner spline cracked out near the top of the splines?
@@DarrylMorin-ne6rw no it's not normal to see cracks on the clutch basket, it needs to be replaced. The race tool I can't give you a part #. I've had it about 20 years I think I got it on Amazon but couldn't swear to it. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Hey there do you happen to know the torque spec of the nut you cracked loose to be able to hammer the mainshaft back to gain that access to the walked race?
Say back in the day had me 82 shovel FLH ,went to install a kicker on tranny , maybe two half hour job but discovered the ( factory had taken some type of stamp and centered it right on the key way valley ,took it many bike shops the all said I'd have to replace tranny's shaft many $ but i took it home pissed off and presided to file it clean ,took about s month and a pile of trangle files😂 but got job done Tinker have you ever seen this before on stock bike? Keep it up you have very good information share Thanks Much👍😎
Thanks for the question, had to dig into the archives for this one. I'm guessing that you we're installing a kit kick start. I do remember having problems with the aftermarket kits. I can't say I remember you're specific problem, but I do remember problems with parts when Harley went from the 4 SPD to the 5. Parts weren't interchangeable. Great determination doing that with a file. Great question sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Glad you like the videos, thanks for watching and ride safe.
Glad you liked the video. I'm assuming you are talking about the left hand threaded nut that goes on the trans main shaft inside the clutch basket. If this is the nut you mean it gets torqued to 70 to 80 ft lbs. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Is there a specification for diameter of the race that I could check with my micrometer caliper. Which would make me want to pull and put a new one on.. it was there something when you put the new one on like maybe green loctite or something that would help it stay put
I don't know the inside diameter of the race off the top of my head. But if you remove the race replace it with a new one. No there's nothing you can put on the race to hold it in place. Thanks for watching
Hi and thanks for the videos. I need to replace my drive belt on my '97 heritage and while there I want to replace the trans pulley from 32t to 34t. I have the factory manual. It looks like I will need to purchase a specialty tool or 2. My concern so far will be removing the large pulley nut. I've heard of guys breaking tools and not being able to crack them loose with a breaker bar and end up cutting them off with a small Dremel zip wheel and chisel. I realize that the trans pulley nut is left hand thread. How do you go about it?
Thanks for the question. The pulley is not a big deal to remove. You're correct it is left hand thread and you should have no problem removing the nut with a breaker bar. I believe what you're talking about where guys use grinders and chisels is removing the inner race off the main shaft of the trans. It sometimes walks in beyond where you can get the puller behind it. I've done a number of videos on this. The tools that you would need are the race puller and installer. You can see what they look like in the video. You can find them on Amazon for a very reasonable price. Hope this helps you out. Thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys Wow, thanks for the quick reply. So to remove the pulley I don't need to remove the race? I am a subscriber and will check out more of your videos. This helps a lot.
The race has to be removed to remove the pulley. I misunderstood what you were asking. But the race definitely has to be removed. Sorry for any confusion. Very glad you are a subscriber and thanks for watching.
Yep I have with the very first one I did. I used a 3 prong puller. I had to grind the back of the prongs to get it inside of the pulley. Used a die grinder on the race and heated it before that puller finally got the race off. It was a real pain in the ass. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video Tinker, I'm doing exactly what you said, tap the trans bolt just enough to get my puller attached on the mainshaft and get the race off, the problem is I can't seem to tap it back, will this cause alignment issue or should I hit harder with the risk that I might hurt the transmission? Thanks for your answer
No don't tap it back. Tighten the nut on the main shaft and that will draw the shaft back in place. Make sure you torque it to specs for the trans. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching
@@tinkeringwithharleys thanks for your reply, I almost hit that harder since it doesn't wanna move at all, once again thanks you save me from a bad day!
Great video. Tried it on my bike, the mainshaft came over a bit but not nearly far enough, must be because of how far the race walked in? I can only get .025” gap behind the race after tapping the shaft over
Glad you liked the video. This is a first, I've never seen that not work. The race must have destroyed the 5th gear seal if it ran in that far. You must have had a hell of a oil leak from it. Definitely need more than .025 of gap to get the puller behind it. Is the race still on the main shaft?
@@tinkeringwithharleys Thank you for the reply. Race is still on the mainshaft. Maybe I’m not hitting it hard enough? Very slight oil leak. Is there chance of damaging if I smack it too hard??
You move the shaft out as far as you need to so you can get the tool behind the race. Just keep the nut on the end of the shaft so as not to damage the threads. I've never measured how far it's moved out so I can't answer that question. But I've always move it out enough to be able to get the clearance.
Thanks for the video, Tinker! I just had one question, I replaced the seal for the inner primary twice now which is the seal that that this race goes through and both times it has started to leak. I did my due diligence in being careful not to nick the seal on the splines and lubed the seal before installing it in the inner primary and the output shaft. Do you think that replacing this race I will fix my leak? The race is not damaged in any way. I really would appreciate your expertise in this matter. Thanks and really enjoyed your video.
Thanks for the question, nope replacing the race won't fix the oil leak. If you're absolutely positive the leak is coming from that seal there maybe a problem with the inner primary. I'm assuming the leak is annoying but not disabling. What year is you're bike and what model?
@@tinkeringwithharleys Don't Put oil on the outside of the seal when installing! It is the only one seal that don.t need oil on the outside but put some oil in the inside bevel of the seal!
@@mariolamontagne3399 not sure which seal you're referring to, didn't do any seals in this video. If you're mean the main seal on the trans, that is correct. No oil on the outside, on the inside of the seal only where the shaft goes through. If you're referring to another seal let me know.
Thanks for the question, I do have a 2 videos that cover transmission not shifting but not one specifically for 2nd gear. If your have trouble getting into 2nd check the easy stuff first. Check the linkage to make sure it's not binding up, check to make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly, also check your clutch cable and lever to make sure it's adjusted correctly. There could be any number of reasons it's not shifting so you have to eliminate the simple things first. Thanks
Unfortunately no locking the trans you engage 2 gears at the same time that will lock it. Putting it in gear will engage the trans and provide resistance. Usually just putting the trans in gear provides enough resistance that you can tap the main shaft enough to get at the race. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
About to tackle this job on my 1996 fxds, can these bearings cause a whining noise? My bike has a very loud whistle/whine at 50-60mph ever since ive noticed a leak coming from my inner primary.
Usually when a bearing is bad it growls all the time it doesn't kick in at 50 60 miles an hour. You might want to check your compensator also check your drive belt to make sure that it's not that I've seen drive belts that were too tight make a whining noise. It could be a bearing but like I said bearings usually growl all the time and you hear them increase with speed the growling I checked the primary chain the tensioner your compensator. It's hard to diagnose without hearing it and seeing it so this is just me giving you an idea where to take a look. Thanks for the question thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys thank you for the reply. The bike has 51k on it so i think its time for a reseal in the primary, ill check the compensator once its out, last time i had it apart it, it looked good and its never noisy in that area anyway. I appreciate your knowledge i bought this bike in 2020 for $3400 and have done everything to it myself minus mounting and balancing tires. I subbed your channel i will definitely check out your other videos, thanks again!
@@tinkeringwithharleys hello again, i made a pretty funny discovery on my dyna today which is where i believe my whistling sound is coming from. The lower plastic belt guard that has the little mudflap type rubber on it was making contact with the corner of my new rear shinko tire. Primary is torn apart so i havent confirmed yet but if that was the culprit to my noise i will keep you updated, it may help someone in the future.
Usually those intermittent whining are something really simple that's why I told you to check your belt. That's where I've seen the rubbing and making a whining noise. Appreciate you keeping me posted, and I will pass that on to other folks.
If your pulling the race off the mainshaft while its on the bike, can you use heat, and if you do will the seals survive the heat or will they need to be replaced?
Thanks for the question. Yes you can use heat on the race without damaging the seals, just angle your touch away from the trans and DON'T heat it up that the race glows. Even after heating they are usually slow to come off but that's normal. Thanks for watching
Im trying this now as i type to you .. i have remove the nut on the shaft under trap door give the shaft a little tap and its not moving at all .. the bike is in neutral does it have to be in gear then tapped ?
That is strange, as a rule once you lock the trans in gear and loosen the main shaft nut the shaft will slide a 1/4 to 1/2 in as you tap it to give you enough room to get the tool in behind the race to remove it. I know I didn't demonstrate it I just talk about it. If you look on TH-cam at Baker Drivetrain, they have a video that actually demonstrates doing it.
@@tinkeringwithharleys yes ive seen that made it look super easy.. everything on mine is still on the bike could that be the reason why it wouldnt knock out ? Surely not
Hi i have to remove bearing race but wont come out far enough to get puller on and i loosen nut and hit with mallet but not coming far enough out to get puller on
When you tap the main shaft out it moves out 1/4 of inch. Unfortunately yours has run all the way in which means you'll have to cut it off. I've not run into one that has run in that far that I can't get in out using this method. I had a viewer write me and tell me about a new tool specifically for this problem. It limits the danger of cutting into the main shaft. I will look for the link he sent me and send it to you. Hope it will help.
Question. I'm doing the Trans shaft seal and inner primary seals on my 1995 Fatboy 5 speed transmission. My inner Race slid right off when I got to it. Is this even possible?
Thanks for the question, yep I've seen this happen. I've only seen on used bikes I've bought or someone else has bought. What I believe causes it is someone prior to me put a used race back on the main shaft and it slides back and forth and usually causes a massive oil leak cause it's run into the 5th gear seal. I've never seen anyone reuse a race but I know some guys do. It will always cause a leak.
@@tinkeringwithharleys thank you very much, I did buy her used, I've got a new race sitting at my house ready to go in and all the seals, but boy did it sure come off easy, no special tool needed.
Ya, she definitely marked her territory, about a quart of transmission fluid a ride. She'll be all taken care of by midweek. Your videos are awesome, definitely have become my go to you tube channel. Thank you for not acting better than anyone but just sharing your knowledge.
When you drove that shaft into the bearing, you drove against the balls. That means you need a new bearing. Beating against the balls is no different than pressing against them.
I beg to differ, loosening the main shaft nut and tapping the main shaft out to gain access to the back of the inner race with the tool does not damage the bearing. The bearing is supported by the case. I've done hundreds of these and never had a bearing failure. Thanks for you're comment and thanks for watching.
![Образумливаю трансмиссию Harley-Davidson [MOTO TUNE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G-RovWo060g/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the video! I'm dealing with that exact problem right now, matter of fact,I set up the die grinder just before I came in for dinner. No doubt my main shaft thanks you(so do i)! Thanks again brother!
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching
I heard you talk for 45 seconds and subscribed! Thank you! Cool old school Harley guy!
Thanks I appreciate it.
@@tinkeringwithharleys Yes sir Thank you!
👍
Excellent tip, thanks!! Also, it was awesome to see you 'hand-turning' the puller instead of using an impact gun. Hand-turning any puller always gets the sleeve or bearing moving much better than an impact which often destroys the puller while leaving the bearing stuck. Obviously, you've learned that long ago too. Much respect, brother.
Thanks for the comment. I always hand turn everything. I like to feel what I'm doing. Only use a impact on things that need a impact. Thanks for watching and ride safe
I am glad I came across your video before removing the transmission race. Great advice.
Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching
Using the adjustable wrent to support the puller is something I've never thought of, inspired. Don't get me wrong the rest was damned interesting but that little tidbit pleased me to no end. Not sure why but I do know I'll be looking for ways to apply that concept from now on. Subbed.
Glad you enjoyed it. Yep that puller has a 3/8 end on it. I've never found a 3/8 wrench big enough or strong enough to use. I've used that adjustable wrench on that puller for years. Necessity is the mother of invention. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Can’t beat experience. Respect brother
Thanks I appreciate that. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Hello there!
I’ve been watching some of your videos lately and I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge! Very cool!
I’m getting ready to remove the transmission internals because I believe it needs to have the pawl shifter replaced because it will miss shift on the 1-2 up shift pretty consistently.
My bike is a 2003 Harley FXDL with 42,3XX miles on it.
I ordered the parts and tools for the job a couple of days ago and will be getting to work on it soon.
Very glad you're watching and enjoying the videos, hopefully it helps you out on you're project. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Ride safe
Thank you for the video, will be doing this job in a couple days, borrowing a friend's tool. I feel a lot more confident after watching your video. Thanks again man 👍🤜🤛
Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it. Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching
My old Wide Glide has just been begging for a seal since I bought it a couple years ago. I have a feeling there will be a race involved too, so thanks for the great post! Think it's time to tear into it so people will stop cracking those Harley oil one-liners when I am parked at my meditation area. 😆
Glad you liked the video. If you have a 5 or 6 speed and everything is stock there will be a race that will have to be removed to get to the seals. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
thanks for the video .but i got to the nut on the right side and realized there was something covering the nut....after trying to get that little bitty snap ring of the strange thing from keeping me from getting to the nut ....i happen to pull on it and it just came out of the shaft exposing the nut you said to loosen....and i did and the sleeve horse shoe went right behind and i was then able to get the old race off.....thanks ...
Glad the video helped you. I've not seen a snap ring in front of the pulley nut. That maybe something someone did to try and prevent the race from walking into the 5th gear seal. Thanks for putting that comment up. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
I needed this video, i have a leak in the race area and didn't know where to begin thanks you
Glad the video help you out. Thanks for watching and ride safe
You seem to be the perfect gentleman to ask. On the left hand side of trans is the shift lever and shaft. I believe there is a seal with snap ring and bushing behind that. My question is how is the bushing replaced? Is there a special tool? Does the transmission have to be disassembled to get to the bushing? Any help would be appreciated! The seal is not leaking now but there is play in the shaft. Thanks, Dave
Thanks for the question. There is a tool to remove and install the Carrier Bushing without removing the inner primary and pulling the gear set out. I've seen it done on a 6 speed but have never done it myself. I don't know if it works on a 5 speed. All the transmissions I work on are on the bench, and I remove and install while the trans is apart. I also use a special tool to remove and install the bushing. The tool I use is pretty old and I don't remember where I got it, but I know Jim's Tools sells them. From Jim's it's pricey so you may want to look around for a better price if you're only going to use it once. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Thanks so much for the quick response. I’ve already told many of my mechanical friends about your video and great info. I will be looking into the tools and procedures to get it done. Thanks from Dave and crew!
Will the rubber mallet do the same job on a 6 speed box? Great channel and great videos by the way 👍 thank you for sharing your knowledge it's a fantastic help 🙂
Yep you can use the rubber mallet on a 6 spd if needed, but gently. I'm glad you like the channel. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
This worked a treat. Thank you for the handy hint with the rubber mallet. Also can I express to everybody not to buy the cheep Chinese bearing remover/installer, I did and it exploded as soon as it was under stress, I had to buy the Jims tool and it worked a treat 👍
Im now about to watch your whole video catalogue on here... Again thank you for the brilliant video tutorials
@@EdCase50 glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Your video was great . It helped me alot
Glad the video helped you. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing your stock and trade, My question is when or why does the race need to be replaced>
Glad you liked the videos. The race needs to be changed if the bearing that rides on it goes bad and anytime you have to remove the race to access the transmission, to replace seals or pull the gear set out of the trans. Anytime you remove the race you need to replace it with a new one never reuse the old one. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. Ride safe
Thanks, great info. One of my Harley's is a 2011 Road Glide. Have you ever heard a primary squeal like a car that has a loose alternator belt? It only does it with the clutch engaged (clutch lever not pulled in) during hard acceleration and deceleration.
Yep I've heard and seen it. It could be any number of things. I would first check the adjustment on the final drive belt. If that's not the problem it could be the compensator, primary chain out of adjustment or a bearing is going bad. That would be the order I would check in. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys I'll let you know what I find when I tear it apart
Hopefully you won't have to tear it apart and it's just a worn final drive belt or it's out of adjustment. Let me know. Thanks
@@tinkeringwithharleys it's not the belt, when a belt squeaks its like rubbing your finger on a clean plate, mine is more like a metal on metal squeal, I suspect the Compensator plates. I only have two positions on my throttle, off and full. the bike has 49k hard miles. I'm on my third rear pulley,
Since you're sure it's not the belt it time to pull the primary and see what's going on.
Hey great video, I'm going to replace that race on my 07 flhtcu, 96 cuin, can you share the puller kit pn or details to save some guess work, and as well, is it common to see pieces of the clutch basket inner spline cracked out near the top of the splines?
@@DarrylMorin-ne6rw no it's not normal to see cracks on the clutch basket, it needs to be replaced. The race tool I can't give you a part #. I've had it about 20 years I think I got it on Amazon but couldn't swear to it. Thanks for watching and ride safe
That worked! You’re awesome sir thank you so much!!!!
Glad the video helped, thanks for watching
Hey there do you happen to know the torque spec of the nut you cracked loose to be able to hammer the mainshaft back to gain that access to the walked race?
Off the top of my head I can't, but I would also need year and model and transmission type to tell you. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Say back in the day had me 82 shovel FLH ,went to install a kicker on tranny , maybe two half hour job but discovered the ( factory had taken some type of stamp and centered it right on the key way valley ,took it many bike shops the all said I'd have to replace tranny's shaft many $ but i took it home pissed off and presided to file it clean ,took about s month and a pile of trangle files😂 but got job done Tinker have you ever seen this before on stock bike? Keep it up you have very good information share Thanks Much👍😎
Thanks for the question, had to dig into the archives for this one. I'm guessing that you we're installing a kit kick start. I do remember having problems with the aftermarket kits. I can't say I remember you're specific problem, but I do remember problems with parts when Harley went from the 4 SPD to the 5. Parts weren't interchangeable. Great determination doing that with a file. Great question sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Glad you like the videos, thanks for watching and ride safe.
Excellent
Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching and ride safe
Love the video on Question do you happen to know the torque spec of that 1 1:/16 nut on the clutch release side
Glad you liked the video. I'm assuming you are talking about the left hand threaded nut that goes on the trans main shaft inside the clutch basket. If this is the nut you mean it gets torqued to 70 to 80 ft lbs. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Is there two different puller tools that you have to buy for 6 speed and a 5 speed or ate they both the same
Thanks for the question. The race puller tool is the same for a 6spd or 5spd. Thanks for watching
That was magic brother,
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Is there a specification for diameter of the race that I could check with my micrometer caliper. Which would make me want to pull and put a new one on.. it was there something when you put the new one on like maybe green loctite or something that would help it stay put
I don't know the inside diameter of the race off the top of my head. But if you remove the race replace it with a new one. No there's nothing you can put on the race to hold it in place. Thanks for watching
@@tinkeringwithharleys thank you for the info
My pleasure thanks for watching
And it was just wondering does the race walk inward or outward normally
The race walks in towards the trans
@@tinkeringwithharleys 👍
Happy New Year!!
Happy New Year
And when you change the bearing in the inner primary do you change the race also together as a pair or does it not mater
If you're changing the bearing in the inner primary I would strongly recommend you replace the race
@@tinkeringwithharleys 👍👍
Will the exhaust have to come off to remove actuator cover?
Generally it does, usually the rear pipe blocks the cover. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys thank you for your response. I ended up carefully cutting it with a dremel tool. Worked out just fine.
Hi and thanks for the videos. I need to replace my drive belt on my '97 heritage and while there I want to replace the trans pulley from 32t to 34t. I have the factory manual. It looks like I will need to purchase a specialty tool or 2. My concern so far will be removing the large pulley nut. I've heard of guys breaking tools and not being able to crack them loose with a breaker bar and end up cutting them off with a small Dremel zip wheel and chisel. I realize that the trans pulley nut is left hand thread.
How do you go about it?
Thanks for the question. The pulley is not a big deal to remove. You're correct it is left hand thread and you should have no problem removing the nut with a breaker bar. I believe what you're talking about where guys use grinders and chisels is removing the inner race off the main shaft of the trans. It sometimes walks in beyond where you can get the puller behind it. I've done a number of videos on this. The tools that you would need are the race puller and installer. You can see what they look like in the video. You can find them on Amazon for a very reasonable price. Hope this helps you out. Thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys
Wow, thanks for the quick reply.
So to remove the pulley I don't need to remove the race?
I am a subscriber and will check out more of your videos. This helps a lot.
The race has to be removed to remove the pulley. I misunderstood what you were asking. But the race definitely has to be removed. Sorry for any confusion. Very glad you are a subscriber and thanks for watching.
I usually try to answer all the questions I get the following day that they come in. Can't always do it but I try to answer as quickly as possible
Have you ever used a 2 or 3 jaw puller when moving the main shaft out a bit?
Yep I have with the very first one I did. I used a 3 prong puller. I had to grind the back of the prongs to get it inside of the pulley. Used a die grinder on the race and heated it before that puller finally got the race off. It was a real pain in the ass. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video Tinker, I'm doing exactly what you said, tap the trans bolt just enough to get my puller attached on the mainshaft and get the race off, the problem is I can't seem to tap it back, will this cause alignment issue or should I hit harder with the risk that I might hurt the transmission? Thanks for your answer
No don't tap it back. Tighten the nut on the main shaft and that will draw the shaft back in place. Make sure you torque it to specs for the trans. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching
@@tinkeringwithharleys thanks for your reply, I almost hit that harder since it doesn't wanna move at all, once again thanks you save me from a bad day!
Yep that would've been good. Just draw the shaft in with the nut. You don't need loctite on it. Just make sure you torque it, that's very important.
What is the torque on 6 speed and how do you lock transmission
Cool video 😊
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Big help thank you
Glad the video helped, thanks for watching.
Great video. Tried it on my bike, the mainshaft came over a bit but not nearly far enough, must be because of how far the race walked in? I can only get .025” gap behind the race after tapping the shaft over
Glad you liked the video. This is a first, I've never seen that not work. The race must have destroyed the 5th gear seal if it ran in that far. You must have had a hell of a oil leak from it. Definitely need more than
.025 of gap to get the puller behind it. Is the race still on the main shaft?
@@tinkeringwithharleys Thank you for the reply. Race is still on the mainshaft. Maybe I’m not hitting it hard enough? Very slight oil leak. Is there chance of damaging if I smack it too hard??
Use a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer, you can give it a good shot to move it without damaging anything.
@@tinkeringwithharleys how far will the shaft actually move
You move the shaft out as far as you need to so you can get the tool behind the race. Just keep the nut on the end of the shaft so as not to damage the threads. I've never measured how far it's moved out so I can't answer that question. But I've always move it out enough to be able to get the clearance.
Thanks for the video, Tinker! I just had one question, I replaced the seal for the inner primary twice now which is the seal that that this race goes through and both times it has started to leak. I did my due diligence in being careful not to nick the seal on the splines and lubed the seal before installing it in the inner primary and the output shaft. Do you think that replacing this race I will fix my leak? The race is not damaged in any way. I really would appreciate your expertise in this matter. Thanks and really enjoyed your video.
Thanks for the question, nope replacing the race won't fix the oil leak. If you're absolutely positive the leak is coming from that seal there maybe a problem with the inner primary. I'm assuming the leak is annoying but not disabling. What year is you're bike and what model?
@@tinkeringwithharleys Don't Put oil on the outside of the seal when installing! It is the only one seal that don.t need oil on the outside but put some oil in the inside bevel of the seal!
@@mariolamontagne3399 not sure which seal you're referring to, didn't do any seals in this video. If you're mean the main seal on the trans, that is correct. No oil on the outside, on the inside of the seal only where the shaft goes through. If you're referring to another seal let me know.
Do you have any video's on trans mission not shifting in to 2nd ?
Thanks for the question, I do have a 2 videos that cover transmission not shifting but not one specifically for 2nd gear. If your have trouble getting into 2nd check the easy stuff first. Check the linkage to make sure it's not binding up, check to make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly, also check your clutch cable and lever to make sure it's adjusted correctly. There could be any number of reasons it's not shifting so you have to eliminate the simple things first. Thanks
So putting the transmission into gear is the same as locking the shifting forks correct?
Unfortunately no locking the trans you engage 2 gears at the same time that will lock it. Putting it in gear will engage the trans and provide resistance. Usually just putting the trans in gear provides enough resistance that you can tap the main shaft enough to get at the race. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
About to tackle this job on my 1996 fxds, can these bearings cause a whining noise? My bike has a very loud whistle/whine at 50-60mph ever since ive noticed a leak coming from my inner primary.
Usually when a bearing is bad it growls all the time it doesn't kick in at 50 60 miles an hour. You might want to check your compensator also check your drive belt to make sure that it's not that I've seen drive belts that were too tight make a whining noise. It could be a bearing but like I said bearings usually growl all the time and you hear them increase with speed the growling I checked the primary chain the tensioner your compensator. It's hard to diagnose without hearing it and seeing it so this is just me giving you an idea where to take a look. Thanks for the question thanks for watching.
@@tinkeringwithharleys thank you for the reply. The bike has 51k on it so i think its time for a reseal in the primary, ill check the compensator once its out, last time i had it apart it, it looked good and its never noisy in that area anyway. I appreciate your knowledge i bought this bike in 2020 for $3400 and have done everything to it myself minus mounting and balancing tires. I subbed your channel i will definitely check out your other videos, thanks again!
@@tinkeringwithharleys hello again, i made a pretty funny discovery on my dyna today which is where i believe my whistling sound is coming from. The lower plastic belt guard that has the little mudflap type rubber on it was making contact with the corner of my new rear shinko tire. Primary is torn apart so i havent confirmed yet but if that was the culprit to my noise i will keep you updated, it may help someone in the future.
Usually those intermittent whining are something really simple that's why I told you to check your belt. That's where I've seen the rubbing and making a whining noise. Appreciate you keeping me posted, and I will pass that on to other folks.
@@tinkeringwithharleys and i appreciate your knowledge and reply sir, have a good day. Thanks again!
Do you have to take the race off before the pully?
You can take the pulley off without removing the race. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
If your pulling the race off the mainshaft while its on the bike, can you use heat, and if you do will the seals survive the heat or will they need to be replaced?
Thanks for the question. Yes you can use heat on the race without damaging the seals, just angle your touch away from the trans and DON'T heat it up that the race glows. Even after heating they are usually slow to come off but that's normal. Thanks for watching
@@tinkeringwithharleys it came off rather easy, no heat needed, it acutally looked like they used anit-seize at the factory.
@@tinkeringwithharleys what's the best way to get the bearing into the primary housing? Thanks in advance!
Sometimes they come off easy and sometimes they're a little tough. It's always a surprise.
What year and model is your bike? Harley keeps changing the inner primary and bearing.
Im trying this now as i type to you .. i have remove the nut on the shaft under trap door give the shaft a little tap and its not moving at all .. the bike is in neutral does it have to be in gear then tapped ?
Thanks for the question yes it needs to be in gear, than the main shaft will move.
@@tinkeringwithharleys mine wouldnt move at all.. super strange
That is strange, as a rule once you lock the trans in gear and loosen the main shaft nut the shaft will slide a 1/4 to 1/2 in as you tap it to give you enough room to get the tool in behind the race to remove it. I know I didn't demonstrate it I just talk about it. If you look on TH-cam at Baker Drivetrain, they have a video that actually demonstrates doing it.
th-cam.com/video/VdUFVUfdZAY/w-d-xo.html
@@tinkeringwithharleys yes ive seen that made it look super easy.. everything on mine is still on the bike could that be the reason why it wouldnt knock out ? Surely not
Hi i have to remove bearing race but wont come out far enough to get puller on and i loosen nut and hit with mallet but not coming far enough out to get puller on
When you tap the main shaft out it moves out 1/4 of inch. Unfortunately yours has run all the way in which means you'll have to cut it off. I've not run into one that has run in that far that I can't get in out using this method. I had a viewer write me and tell me about a new tool specifically for this problem. It limits the danger of cutting into the main shaft. I will look for the link he sent me and send it to you. Hope it will help.
th-cam.com/video/Y7mn_mvh72g/w-d-xo.html
I haven't used this tool myself because I've not had the need, but the guy who send it to me says it works pretty good. Hope it helps you.
Helpful and I hope to
Glad it was helpful to you, thanks for watching
Question. I'm doing the Trans shaft seal and inner primary seals on my 1995 Fatboy 5 speed transmission. My inner Race slid right off when I got to it. Is this even possible?
Thanks for the question, yep I've seen this happen. I've only seen on used bikes I've bought or someone else has bought. What I believe causes it is someone prior to me put a used race back on the main shaft and it slides back and forth and usually causes a massive oil leak cause it's run into the 5th gear seal. I've never seen anyone reuse a race but I know some guys do. It will always cause a leak.
@@tinkeringwithharleys thank you very much, I did buy her used, I've got a new race sitting at my house ready to go in and all the seals, but boy did it sure come off easy, no special tool needed.
When you get a easy one like that you usually have a oil leak which I'm assuming you do since you're replacing the seals.
Ya, she definitely marked her territory, about a quart of transmission fluid a ride. She'll be all taken care of by midweek. Your videos are awesome, definitely have become my go to you tube channel. Thank you for not acting better than anyone but just sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoy the channel and it's helping you out. Thanks for the compliment I appreciate it. Thanks for watching.
Most easiest way & quickest ✌️ on 2's
It is the easiest and quickest way for me. Thanks for watching
Nice video
Thank you, thanks for watching.
When you drove that shaft into the bearing, you drove against the balls. That means you need a new bearing. Beating against the balls is no different than pressing against them.
I beg to differ, loosening the main shaft nut and tapping the main shaft out to gain access to the back of the inner race with the tool does not damage the bearing. The bearing is supported by the case. I've done hundreds of these and never had a bearing failure. Thanks for you're comment and thanks for watching.
Upgrade to all balls and eliminate it
Thanks for the comment. Thanks for watching and ride safe
is it not obvious to uploaders that the year and model could be useful info? They aren't the same for all years.
To first timers.they don't realize that things differ from year to year. Thanks for watching and ride safe