It was somewhat disappointing, that you did not have a air hammer for the inner race, and then oops the basket won't go on the starter side of the gear ??
V-twin oil works great in V-twins... Why you ask?... Ball bearings. And no, your regular oil, even motorcycle oil, won't work. Diesel oil is good for ball bearings too by the way.
Do you think part of your noise issue was the clutch hub or bearing? Because I just replaced my inner primary bearing/race and still getting that same clunking noise that you had. Thanks in advanced
Please keep me updated. I replaced both Primary Mainshaft Bearing (Inner Primary Bearing) and the bearing in the clutch basket. Within a year later, I am hearing the noise again. This weekend I removed the primary again. The Inner Primary Bearing seems good. However, there appears to be micro-spalling on the inner bearing race and I found a small amount of grey mud near the drain plug. I am still investigating. Unfortunately, Baker only makes the bearing for years 1985-2007 and I am not going to purchase All Balls.
@@badmatt4227 So like I said I have the same noise as yours did. Mine does it only when it is hot and I can only hear it when the motors is off and I’m coasting it in neutral. So I actually traced it down this morning. I took it apart while it was still warm and making the noise. Piece by piece checking it, made it all the way back to the pulley and it was still making the noise.. so it’s no parts/bearings in the primary causing it for me. And unless it’s something going on with the pulley, I’ll be looking at some bearings in the transmission this weekend. It leads right to it. Thought maybe it’s from the tensioner putting stress on the shaft but the chain wasn’t too too bad when I checked it (and the noise was active.) However, I’m pretty sure this is all caused by the auto tensioner either way. Ill find out tho. And I’ll keep you informed on what I find.
@@tyrellinyotube9004 Interesting, my auto-tensioner is one year old and still looks new. I just pulled my primary again. Some micro-spalling on the race. I think the cause might be from the drive belt to the tire is too tight. I need to do a run out to confirm theory.
@@badmatt4227 Turns out the problem was the main drive gear bearing. And I replaced that tensioner with a baker attitude adjuster. After all this I realize the damage the stock tensioner can do. I suggest looking into a manual adjuster. That’s probably why your race is showing wear already. (It’s one of the signs) They put a lot of tension on everything especially if you get on it here and there. Not to mention how much more quite it is with the baker.
@@tyrellinyotube9004 I removed the primary and and the double row bearing in the transmission sounds rough when rotating the shaft by hand. HD mechanic said the double row bearing sound travels into the primary. Baker is an option, I would never buy a Hayden.
You've made some descent vids but your drinking & wrenching don't work well together. That being said if someone wants to know how not to do it then this is the perfect video. Not only you failed to acknowledge that you were trying to press the clutch hub into the backside of the pressure plate but nobody else has mentioned it either. It's not a difficult task to achieve when trying to do it properly, but you broke your all-thread because you were for some unknown reasons "other than being drunk" trying to press the clutch hub into the wrong side & then chose to pay the dealer to do it the right way. I'm not putting you down by no means but I had to set this straight because like I said you or anyone else has said anything about you trying to press the hub into the wrong side, that's all I wanted to say so that other's don't think they're learning something other than how not to do it
@@badmatt4227 You were trying to put it in on the back side of the clutch basket. I saw it right away but I had to keep watching to see what you were up to or to see if you would admit to your mistake.
@@7031953 What are you talking about, I installed in reverse direction of uninstall. This tells me I need to make better videos that are clearer. Interesting though 10 months later and the new bearing is bad. I have to go back in.
@@badmatt4227 at 4:39 we see you removing the old inner basket from the outer basket and at 5:46 we see you for some reason trying to install the new inner basket on the backside of the clutch assembly. ???
Removing the hub was awesome. With the wooden box trick.
I'm curious how long it took you to figure out you were putting it together wrong.
same here. i kept waiting for Matt to catch it.
@@robertthomas3907 The next day.
5:45 this is jaw dropping situation, at least for me
Great series of vids. Thank you for taking the time
you saved you're self a bunch of money and other's to thanks
You put the part in housing backwards. That's why you broke the screw, sorry, I just watched this video twice
Ok I'm thinking you don't put clutch baskets together much 😄
It was somewhat disappointing, that you did not have a air hammer for the inner race, and then oops the basket won't go on the starter side of the gear ??
The basket error was from getting in rush.
Question 09 crossbones is making a hooting sound
V-twin oil works great in V-twins... Why you ask?... Ball bearings. And no, your regular oil, even motorcycle oil, won't work. Diesel oil is good for ball bearings too by the way.
W-D good pressing lub
Question... why the need to replace the Clutch hub?
The splines on the inside were breaking off.
@@badmatt4227 I figured something was up.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I appreciate the effort you put into these videos, but jeez man, you're just messing everything up.
Do you think part of your noise issue was the clutch hub or bearing? Because I just replaced my inner primary bearing/race and still getting that same clunking noise that you had. Thanks in advanced
Please keep me updated.
I replaced both Primary Mainshaft Bearing (Inner Primary Bearing) and the bearing in the clutch basket.
Within a year later, I am hearing the noise again.
This weekend I removed the primary again.
The Inner Primary Bearing seems good.
However, there appears to be micro-spalling on the inner bearing race and I found a small amount of grey mud near the drain plug.
I am still investigating.
Unfortunately, Baker only makes the bearing for years 1985-2007 and I am not going to purchase All Balls.
@@badmatt4227 So like I said I have the same noise as yours did. Mine does it only when it is hot and I can only hear it when the motors is off and I’m coasting it in neutral. So I actually traced it down this morning. I took it apart while it was still warm and making the noise. Piece by piece checking it, made it all the way back to the pulley and it was still making the noise.. so it’s no parts/bearings in the primary causing it for me. And unless it’s something going on with the pulley, I’ll be looking at some bearings in the transmission this weekend. It leads right to it. Thought maybe it’s from the tensioner putting stress on the shaft but the chain wasn’t too too bad when I checked it (and the noise was active.) However, I’m pretty sure this is all caused by the auto tensioner either way. Ill find out tho. And I’ll keep you informed on what I find.
@@tyrellinyotube9004 Interesting, my auto-tensioner is one year old and still looks new.
I just pulled my primary again.
Some micro-spalling on the race. I think the cause might be from the drive belt to the tire is too tight.
I need to do a run out to confirm theory.
@@badmatt4227 Turns out the problem was the main drive gear bearing. And I replaced that tensioner with a baker attitude adjuster. After all this I realize the damage the stock tensioner can do. I suggest looking into a manual adjuster. That’s probably why your race is showing wear already. (It’s one of the signs) They put a lot of tension on everything especially if you get on it here and there. Not to mention how much more quite it is with the baker.
@@tyrellinyotube9004 I removed the primary and and the double row bearing in the transmission sounds rough when rotating the shaft by hand. HD mechanic said the double row bearing sound travels into the primary.
Baker is an option, I would never buy a Hayden.
You've made some descent vids but your drinking & wrenching don't work well together. That being said if someone wants to know how not to do it then this is the perfect video. Not only you failed to acknowledge that you were trying to press the clutch hub into the backside of the pressure plate but nobody else has mentioned it either. It's not a difficult task to achieve when trying to do it properly, but you broke your all-thread because you were for some unknown reasons "other than being drunk" trying to press the clutch hub into the wrong side & then chose to pay the dealer to do it the right way. I'm not putting you down by no means but I had to set this straight because like I said you or anyone else has said anything about you trying to press the hub into the wrong side, that's all I wanted to say so that other's don't think they're learning something other than how not to do it
I have no idea what you are talking about.
Please show time location of this.
The all-thread broke because I forgot to put anti-seize on the threads.
@@badmatt4227 You were trying to put it in on the back side of the clutch basket. I saw it right away but I had to keep watching to see what you were up to or to see if you would admit to your mistake.
@@7031953 What are you talking about, I installed in reverse direction of uninstall. This tells me I need to make better videos that are clearer. Interesting though 10 months later and the new bearing is bad. I have to go back in.
@@badmatt4227 at 4:39 we see you removing the old inner basket from the outer basket and at 5:46 we see you for some reason trying to install the new inner basket on the backside of the clutch assembly. ???
@@crispwm My bad
You need to buy a hydraulic press
WOW this shows that not everyone should be doing major repairs on their bike.....and some should never even touch a WRENCH!!!!LMAO
LOL, your criticism will be taken as a joke.