I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci for all vehicles was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! ive replaced oil that still looked like honey ! oil is cheap ! engines and labor are not !
I have a feeling 6 mo/4,000 miles isn't really giving us the full picture. It would be interesting to know how many idle hours accumulated during that time. I'm thinking well above what the average passenger vehicle accumulates.
Engine builders have known all along that turbocharging and direct injection lead to shortened engine life. Changing the oil and filter with high quality products helps component longevity, but asking these small displacement engines to perform like their long- gone larger displacement predecessors
Hence why Ford's new workhorse 7.3L gas (2020+) is a port injected, naturally asperated push rod motor. Built for maximum durability & reliability....Not to mentioned ease of maintenance.
OK, I’ll bit, so a turbo charged engine can’t make it to 18K miles (with 3 oil changes), seriously. Most engines can make it to 80K miles with zero oil changes as long as you top off the oil to make sure it does not get low. Even turbocharged engines. I’m not sure what to say about comments like this.
@@user-jy8ew2xc9g I agree, most automotive turbocharged engines are good for at least 200K miles if maintained properly. Oil cleanliness is even more critical for turbocharged engines. The no.1 killer for turbos is dirty oil. In Europe, constantly failing turbos seemed to become a thing when these 15-25K service intervals became the norm. No.2 killer for turbos is heat soak from the turbine/exhaust side when the engine is shutdown after a hard run - the heat soaks into the oil in the bearing races, cooks the oil and carbonises it meaning there's a load of abrasive particles in the bearing race when the turbo starts spinning on the next start up. Always idle a turbocharged engine for 2-3mins before shutting down as the oil flow carries that extreme heat away. In operators manuals for industrial engines they always say to do this.
SMH, shame. When my wife got a new vehicle at retirement a few years back, their "service dept." complained to my wife that me changing the oil every 3,000 miles was not necessary. She told them "He does that so our engines can hit 200,000 to 300,000+ miles before they get replaced". Their manufacturer oil change interval = engines last until just out of warranty .
If even. Working at a Ford dealership in Germany we have multiple recalls on Transit Custom vehicles on which the timing belt degrades due to 50.000 k / 2 year oil change intervalls and ultimately clogs the oil pickup.
I do every 5000 and I drive heavy in the city but haven’t had any issues I would not go over 5000 though and I see people go 12k 20k and I cringe and think how’s that motor still going it’s gotta be slugged up
Today's synthetic oils work fine with an OEM filter for about 7k miles as long as you're not desert racing. Clean oil helps engines last but changing oil these days at 3k miles is just pouring money down the drain. I will be changing my oil soon. It has 6k miles on it. I checked it last week. It still looks good but the golden color is becoming brown. That's about the right time.
@@wsbill14224 sorry hoffman, butt colour does NOT indicate time 4 a change... a friend changes his every 12k & uses m1& a fram filter... his oil was BLACK AS COAL, where as my AMSOIL signature series in lexus nx200t went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days, going 23,671 miles & testing showed it only lost a little viscosity... nothing else butt AMSOIL in my cars.
A couple weeks back, I tore down a 4.6 2v pulled out of my Crown Vic 2 years ago. This engine religiously got oil changes every 3 months using Motorcraft 5w20 or 5w30 (depending on how hot outside) synthetic along with Motorcraft FL820s oil filters. This engine was pulled at 245,000 miles due to oil consumption. Well, the oil consumption turned out due to bad valve stem seals. The inside of the engine was far cleaner than the engine in this video. There was not one piston in the engine that looked anything like the one in this video. In fact, all of the bearings had almost no wear whatsoever on them, the crank journals looked freshly polished. Checked the journals, all are in exceptional shape with no discernable wear according to my micrometer. In fact, the crank looks as if it has just been machined - it's that fresh. It is hard to believe this engine in your video has only 18k miles on it with what you see. This is why oil changes are so important. Oil will oxidize in the crankcase just from father time doing his thing.
Same with my 165,000 mile 4.6 2V. It's absolutely spotless on the inside and it looks more like an engine with 6500 miles on it. It was that clean. I had the cam covers off to replace the gaskets, thats the only reason I had to open it up.
Thanks for the reminder and reinforcement... Your videos on oil changes have got me to switch my '97 F-150 over to a time based oil change interval since it is much like the car in this video, very short trips and extremely rare highway time.
Absolutely 💯. The one thing that bothers me is the lack of education at the point of sale and by manufacturers. It isn't taught how crucial maintenance is with these boosted engines. The general public who are not auto enthusiasts got away for so long without doing proper maintenance, it isn't even on their radar. Instead we have manufacturers making maintenance free claims like on transmissions. Then they don't want to warranty failures. The blame goes full circle. We appreciate people like you who are trying to educate everyone. 🙂🐶
A quality turbo engine would go 80K more miles with no oil changes (just top offs to make sure the oil level is adequate). This clown is making excuses for a poorly designed/built Ford engine.
I've always changed my oil every 3K (back in the day before synthetic came around) and every 5K with synthetic. I have two vehicles; a DD and "family hauler" for trips/family reunions. Both are set at the 5K oil change interval. The family hauler usually times out before the mileage is up, even with my running it on a week and off a week. It gets changed every 6 months whether it meets the 5K mark or not. Both of my vehicles are NA. Such as been said before "Oil is cheap, new engines aren't"
Appreciate the wisdom! I'm a 21 year old who just bought a 22 Edge last month and I definitely have needed this advice since this is my first ecoboost turbo car. I definitely was more lax with oil changes on my old Honda.
I tore down a 5.3 LM7 that I bought from a scrap yard a few years back. I could tell they definitely didn't keep up on the maintenance oil, or coolant. It actually had 2 seized up main bearings from where the oil had caked up though the years and clogged the oil pickup screen. Coolant passages where showing signs of beginning to corrode. I've always done my best to keep my vehicles and my families vehicles well maintained. Take good car of your vehicles and they'll last much longer, and have less problems. In the long run, the extra money for proper maintenance will save you big time on otherwise costly repairs from not taking care of it. I think some people don't understand that theory. Great video Rich, thank you and God bless you.
This one right up my alley. My 18 escape w/ the 1.5 only made it for a change once in the past year. I drive a service van so it has extremely low miles but hopefully my busy/laziness didn’t do too much damage. I know better and this vid was a nice kick in the ass. Thnx.
And project Farm is just a man he has no formal training he is not a technician although I do like his work I don't go watch his stuff because then it taints my work that I put out here because I also do oil testing and long-term use I don't need project for him to tell me because I'm more trained than he is I am more certified than he is and I actually do testing a little bit different than he does so I don't need anybody to tell me to go watch somebody that has not even got my skill set but just knows how to do some good testing which I respect he is not me and he does not have the ability to do what I do
Most filters are pretty decent. The problem is the turbo raises the cylinder temps and that scorches the oil. The add pak goodies in the oil break down rapidly at high temps. If you aren't using oil formulated to eke out a few more miles under those conditions and changing it often you'll end up with this mess pretty quickly. Eventually you'll coke up the rings anyway despite using decent oil and changing it often. You're running a turbo at higher than reasonable HP per CC. It's the nature of the beast. Ford is extracting a lot of power per cube on that little four banger using a turbo with an intercooler. When you increase performance above a fairly arbitrary threshold by pressurizing an engine you'll begin to experience shorter engine component life from pressure and thermal issues. Using an intercooler or water injection will help somewhat but it will not exempt you from basic high school chemistry and physics... Boyles gas laws. Higher pressure means higher temperature. Add combustion to that and you can coke up the combustion & oil rings and actually melt internals if you're not careful. GM turbocharged the short lived 1962-63 Jetfire F85 Oldsmobile. GM used alcohol/water injection to drop cylinder temps but still had problems with melted pistons and other turbo associated issues because they were running fairly close to the bleeding edge. SAAB, Volvo, VW and even GM used superchargers and turbochargers on automobiles for several decades and had slightly better results but they weren't pushing performance as close the bleeding edge as Ford is with this engine and GM was on the Jetfire.
@@TheOcculus Then if you have a direct injected engine the valves are going to be problematic too. They will need to be cleaned every once in a while since fuel no longer cleans them.
If you get any decent brand-name oil filter you'll be fine. The problem is interval not the type of oil or filter. You can get the cheapest conventional oil on sale and your engine will be as happy as the highest quality synthetic oil if your interval is good.
I think the mistake people make is buying the expensive redline oils and think they are good for an absurd amount of miles between oil changes. You are better off with Pennzoil full synthetic and changing it more often. Don’t be ridiculous. Oil is oil no matter how much it costs it breaks down and gets contaminated sooner than you think.
I have a raptor. I use Amsoil full synthetic which claims to be one year or 25,000 miles. I have two vehicles, one is a designated work vehicle and I’m lucky to put 5000 miles a year on my raptor. But no matter what I change The oil every six months with this Amsoil. Even if I only have 2000 miles on the oil. It’s getting changed! Great advice in your video. My truck will sit for a week without being started. The longer it sits, the more wear and tear on the engine.
NOT w/AMSOIL, ur wrong... read my response 2 william hoffman above... ur experience w/AMSOIL should dictate usage, NOT the old fashioned way wen they used real oil out of the ground... also hope ur using an AMSOIL filter, it helps... AMSOIL is NOT " full " synthetic, it is 100 % SYNTHETIC, basically the only 1 that is... YES, there is a BIG difference... research it a little further... 4 ur info, i use & sell AMSOIL products...
@@brucek.hoffman5868 twin turbos run hot, fuel 100% gets into the oil, let’s just call that a contaminant in the oil. this also causes wear and tear. these are also reasons I use Amsoil. But I am strongly considering switching to red line after seeing the results of it on this channel it appears to be better than Amsoil. and that red line will get changed just the same.… I don’t care what is 100% full synthetic. Everything breaks down... so no, I’m not wrong. You’re literally telling me I’m wrong for changing my oil 🤦
Not according to my multi year oil analysis of Amsoil. The TBN of Amsoil will allow the base in the oil to last 25k, but soot and particle contamination effects it like every other oil. Without bypass filtration Amsoil should be treated like every other oil on the market. Did a 12k test with amsoil and had 3 times iron wear vs using Kirkland and changing at 3k.
Where I work, a few years ago they decided to start using a oil filter called green filters and I think it was using recycled oil also. The real issue was 20,000 mile OCI for all the service trucks. Mind you we are the largest telecommunications company in the USA. Us techs laughed when that initiative came out. They replaced untold amounts of engines. Needless to say we are back at 5k OCI’s. I change my personal oil every 3k or twice a year. Don’t get me started on my boat OCI’s. I change it about every 10 hours of use. It’s a V8. Love your videos FBM! Keeps us in-line….
Did they ever factor in idle time on these trucks? 20,000 miles on a truck that idles 75% or more of it's life is a huge difference vs a truck that idles 10% of it's time.
@@frandanco6289 hours are usually stored in the ecm on most modern vehicles. I’ve seen plenty of aftermarket add-on hour meters. A lot of fleet vehicles have more in-depth tracking available that may be aftermarket. Just depends on who’s most interested. As far as figuring “idle” hours, maybe I should’ve phrased it as engine or running hours. My point was that if you have 2 trucks each with 10,000 miles on them & 1 added 250 hours & the other added 750 hours. I’d bet that higher hour truck is doing a lot of idling.
I think people hear short trips and idling and don’t believe it’s a big deal. I think they would understand better if they understood that water condensation is a huge product of short tripping and that WATER OXIDIZES OIL FAST. Oxidized oil doesn’t do a good job!
I have a mechanic friend that has a 2000 chevy cavalier 2.2L with over 500k miles of highway driving. He used full synthetic oil and changed it every 5k miles. As far as I know it's still running. Last I talked with him it was at about 540,000. Made a believer out of me! He used 5w30 mobile 1 majority of the time. He has recently switched to shell Rotella t6 5w40 because oil pressure was dropping low on hot days.
I had a 1997 Sunfire with the 2.2. I bought it from a teacher who drove an hour highway commute everyday. I got an Encyclopedia Britannica sized stack of maintenance records with it. It had 360,000 miles on it when I bought it and I put 20K on it before I bought a new car. The oil was changed religiously every 3000 miles with synthetic blend and it still had the original clutch in it. I always preach to people about maintenance, but it seems like Noone wants to take the time or effort to do it.
I'm the maintenance guy at my company, we were running conventional oil with the cheap STP filters. I changed the oil change guidelines to full synthetic oil and Wix XP filters a few weeks ago because I pulled the valve cover on on one of our Nissan frontier pickup trucks and found it full of sludge. The oil was changed at 5k miles every time like clockwork and was changed 15 times the following year.
Low mileage usually means short trips. Constant shot trips/run time is classed as SEVERE DUTY by any engine manufacturer automotive, commerical, marine or industrial, doesn't matter. Most manufacturers call for oil change intervals to be cut in half if useage is classed as severe.
@@GPz84 That's an exception but not the norm. Hence why I said 'usually'. Generally though, if it's a case of not being used much but when it is used it gets a good long run, that's generally ok. On old engines without proper pcv systems you still have to keep an eye on condensation building up in the oil. Personally I've always recommended an oil and filter change once a year to all my customers - oil and filters are the cheapest insurance you can get for any engine.
Oh dear, you are talking about my driving patterns. I don't put 5K/year combined on my 2 vehicles now days. I do try to get them up to temp when I drive them but this time of year that might not happen. I change the oil around once a year or 3K miles. The car does get some highway miles but only once a month now days. The pickup hasn't been out of town since I got it almost 3 years ago. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you for the video. Will definitely keep an eye out for this. I do wonder though if Ford realized exactly how dirty this engine could get over its lifetime?
My dad was this guy lol. Even with the recommendations and tips from his technician son, he only did an oil change once a year on his 05’ f150. his engine started setting timing codes one day and eventually detonated. Multiple camshaft caps were broken in 2 and the engine was locked up. Lucky for him I got him my employee discount on an engine and parts but it still cost him a pretty penny and a good month without his truck waiting on parts. Lesson learned the hard way lol.
DFI and turbo... lots of heat, lots of carbon buildup on intake valves (carbon acts as an insulator and repository of heat), so even more heat can't be disapated and it becomes a vicious circle. Another strategy to slow carbon buildup (piston tops) is to use PEA based fuel treatments (Amoco, STP complete fuel system cleaner, etc). Try to use full synthetic oils (less likely to lead to deposits and sludge)... more expensive up front, but much cheaper than an engine.
Or buy Toyota which has no carbon problems because they waited before releasing their direct injected engines and added multi-port with them to help keep the valves clean. Ford is starting to follow Toyotas lead by adding it back to their engines. Toyota is not perfect, but they damn sure do not rush to release new technology until they test it long enough. Toyota tests a full year longer than Ford. Ford rarely stops Assembly lines over issues discovered, but Toyota encourages workers stop the line if they see an issue. If you want real quality and a better chance at a reliable vehicle buy Toyota or Honda. Ford sucks and I am so glad I traded my 2015 crap Fusion in on a Toyota. The Fusion was in the shop many times before 20k miles. At 22k miles it had a cracked cylinder head in 3 places and the mechanic said it was a flaw from the forge and should never have made it to assembly that is how pissy poor Ford quality is.
@@JasPlun Thats a shame about your fusion, the last generation with the aston martin grills look great and i think the interiors are nice. For an everyday sedan i dont think you can beat a 4cyl camry or corolla. I have never seen struts on a toyota/lexus es sedan go bad and they wear tires pretty evenly. They are also easy/possible to align, even older rusty ones in NE. I am talking 2015ish and prior before the most recent redesign,. If i recall right they changed the rear suspension design so i think they will be prone to the adjustment seizing up. Honda is not bad but more issues than toyota, oil dilution, more complexity with turbos, rear struts go bad, front camber on most is not adjustable.
@@connor3288 We actually liked the cars looks that is the main reason we baught it that and the price I got it for was good. The car handled fine and had a nice ride. The Fusion also had the best damn air conditioner we have ever had it would get cold super fast and freeze you out in a hurry. It is still better than our new Camry in that regard. I did not like the popping sound made by the wind if you wanted to drive with the windows down either. That car was a strictly windows closed vehicle imo. They say they have transmission problems at about 80k miles, but I do not believe that to be caused by the design and more on people not servicing the transmission properly. It had a good transmission. It was not very reliable engine wise at least the one we had. I tried to diagnose and fix some of the problems myself, but in the end the Fusion is a car that is cheap for a reason they do not hold up long term. I like to buy and keep a car for at least 150k to 200k miles and I almost expect to get that pretty much trouble free for the prices they are selling cars and trucks today. In the end the 2020 Camry SE we have now blows it away in build quality, but its a Toyota:P
100% agree. I own a Ford Flex 3.5L with 112,000 and an EB 2.0L Fusion with 66,000 and I change the oil every 3 months. These vehicles see sometimes less than 3,000 between OCIs and I've had absolutely no issues with them.
Seeing the piston, it also looks like the oil control ring groove is very small, tbh to small. VAG 2.0TFSI had the same thing using oil before 100k km.
Thanks again for the video and info. See can’t believe some folks still neglect oil changes. I thought I saw a White Castle in the background at the beginning of your video. Making me hungry for a sack of sliders! 😋
I just bought a new 2021 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine and appreciate your expertise and advice on maintaining it. It is my first Ecoboost engine. It will primarily be my daily drivers, but I do tow a travel trailer for get aways every 2 to 3 months. I’d also appreciate your thoughts on schedules for other fluid maintenance, such as transmission, differential, and coolant changes. Also, with the cam phaser/timing belt issues, would It be a good idea to also install an oil catch can. I did see your video on how to avoid the cold start rattles. Thanks again for making your videos. You provide a great service to Ford customers.
No amount of oil changes will stop the timing chain stretch and cam phasers knocking that’s just bad designs or the turbos cracking the housings and leaking coolant internally that I have never seen that on a aftermarket turbo even on 1500+hp motors. They make great power but it’s a trade off on longevity unfortunately
Thanks for this video, Boss. My grandmother has an older Ford and somehow some tech convinced her and my mother to only change the oil once a year. I had to use said vehicle recently and can hear noises I shouldn't hear. I am sending this to them. I even suggested they do it twice a year (every six months). Thanks again for this video!
I would Put 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil and run it 1,000 Miles. Make sure to install a New Oil Filter, You wouldn't need to do a full Oil change (unless you have the extra $$), Just make sure not to Over Fill the oil..... 4.6 engines Oil filter hold around 3/4 of a Quart of Oil so that should be enough drained by doing that, Or just crack the drain plug and let some come out. After 1,000 Miles that Mystery Oil should clean it up pretty good and you'll *Have* to change the *Oil*
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun& GeritoS. Yea that is a good idea with the MARVEL Mystery Oil. 👌 Make sure you can get on the highway for a good while so that the oils good and hot, allowing that MMO to really get in to every nook and cranny of the valve train, timing chain assembly, etc... I'd run a half quart or more in it after that all the time, especially if they are running a conventional oil in it for her. A full synthetic and a little MMO all the time would really help her engine and your peace of mind too! Good Luck !!!( Rob; Is that your sister Janie? that has a Gun too! A little attempt at Aerosmith humor there😂)
@@tinamcgarrah7794 Yeah i use Marvel Mystery oil in everything i Buy or maybe once a Year, i noticed if i use it in my Gas on a Fuel injected vehicle you can definitely smell the Fumes from the Mystery oil when you first start it because they run really Rich on a Cold start
@@tinamcgarrah7794 and lol alot of people Mention Aerosmith, i like the song, I'm 27 so i do like Old School Rock, But these younger Kids don't have a Clue what Aerosmith is. My Gamertag on Xbox is "Robs Got A Gun" so i decided to make all of my Usernames the same thing
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun That's cool, Aerosmith was a very cool band. 😎 America's Stones kind of... Jagger and Richards...Tyler and Perry! Pretty much b4 your time, but with technology, they'll be there about forever to discover to those wishing too. It's better to have a gun,and not need it! Than to need it, and not have one! Yea MARVEL has that distinctive Wintergreen smell, but much better than Sulphur (rotten eggs), Cars in the 80's were bad for that, b4 they got the emission systems totally figured out...Only drawback to MMO is it will build up a little on the plugs after continued use. But hey I like cleaning and filing the plugs every once in a long while, it's just old school fun, and you'll see quick if a cylinder is going away on you!!! Well Aim True, and Squeeeeeeze the Trigger! JETHRO
@@elgransr Two issues: fuel atomization in DI is usually dirtier with soot and oil gets blacker with soot particles as well. So as this guy right above me said, our lives with DI does suck more unnecessarily but we gain a little performance as well. On some engines and colder locations, fuel does go from the Direct Injection injectors onto cold cylinder walls and into oil so this is a problem as well. My oil oil always has more fine carbon and fuel due to the DI. New oils have been formulated to help but shorter OCI is mandatory as well. DI and Turbo have both resulted in phenomenally more expensive vehicle running costs to millions of drivers throughout the world. I would rather use regular unleaded and run my oil to 6-7k miles and get 33 mpg than get 35 mpg and pay so much more for super unleaded and expensive oil often. My DI Honda is a waste and a rip-off.
@@jamesmedina2062 The objective is less fuel getting passed out the exhaust valve during valve overlap. Direct injection accomplishes that. The EGR and lack of people running catch cans probably puts more garbage into the oil than a cold engine, rich mixture, and a heavy foot.
@@reubenmorris487 valve overlap was never presented as a primary motivation for DI. The efficiency and power improvements were by increasing manageable compression along with high tech knock control because the in-cylinder evaporation reduces temps and the fuel can be metered somewhat leaner. Higher compression increases power of course. Remember that the port injection is aimed right at the intake valve so it is not that different but in many cases the fuel atomization is better with port injection and the fuel particles are smaller thereby reducing large particle formation(soot). I will not disagree with your statement because I have not known or studied valve timing (and overlap) in depth. I have read more on pollution and soot formation
Good video Rich, I live by that. My oil in all my vehicles gets changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. Even my Dodge Cummings gets changed twice a year and I typically only put 2000 miles a year on it outside of our vacations in which it changed when I get back.
People don't listen to us. They want to complain about the failure when it all boils down to oil is cheaper than a motor. Love your content. Keep it up!
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! I changed out oil that still looked like honey ! Total cost $18 including full inspection ! oil and filters are cheap insurance , engines and labor are not !!
Thanks Ford Boss me! I just reached 3,000 miles after my engine replacement. I will follow your recommendations. I will switch to full Synthetic Motorcraft 10w30. To help with sludge build up. Do you recommend the Full Synthetic instead of The Motorcraft blend. You don't say which oil they are using. Thanks, Again for everything you show and teach us about the Eco-Boost engines. Shawn.
I change my oil every 4 months regardless. Since I retired (was in public Service) I dont drive a much a lot of short trips but at least ince a week I go for a long drive to let the engine work at operating temp . Great info on this video!!!
5k a year is fine for a non turbo non gdi engine. But in a turbo gdi ecoboost that idles a lot I wouldn't take that ford syn blend a year. I'd take it to 3k to be safe if I wanted to own it for a long time.
Of the year and a half I’ve owned my 1.5 fusion I’ve had to add coolant once I think. A quarter inch to the reservoir after 20,000 miles. It has 58000 miles on it though.
Maybe I'm delusional but I thought if you engine/cooling system was in good shape you didn't have to add coolant. I've easily put over 100k on vehicles without the coolant dropping.
My wife reached out to me as a wife; we are good now. I hope the same is going for you. I just told her I’m yanking that Jiffy Lube BS out of the car and replacing with the good stuff; Valvoline oil based one your recommendation. I’m in charge of maintenance on both my vehicles; and thanks too you, I’m Blessed to have your guidance here on TH-cam. You have helped me TREMENDOUSLY! AS ALWAYS, STAY BLESSED!
Depends a lot on the car, older cars were ok with standard oil changes. Some engine are trash and need frequent oil changes like the MB270 , it's a nightmare. 6qts of oil in a 1.6 ( not the 2.0) and gets diluted like crazy cause of cat pre heating and GDI.
@@FordBossMe no I wasn’t questioning the factory oil was just wandering if they went to jiffy lube like place. I use factory oil 5 months or 3000 miles on my 250. So just curious
@FordBossMe 1) If someone has been doing a 12 month oil change interval, what's the best way to "recover" (to the extent possible) from that and clean up the crap that might have accumulated in the engine? 2) Last time I had an oil change done (2012 Audi 3.0-liter, 24-valve V-6 with direct injection, supercharging, intercooling), the technician sucked the oil out via the fill hole using a vacuum pump. I've been told that this isn't optimal because it doesn't allow particles in the bottom of the oil pan to get flushed out. Thoughts? 3) Not implying that you're not correct on the OCI info, but why doesn't Ford warn people about the 1x/year scenario in the owner's manual? Or do they? Thanks, Rich! ALWAYS appreciate your enormous wisdom and willingness to share it.
I've covered this before with the recommendations from the manufacturer it would be redundant for me to continue to repeat this over and over again The manufacturer expects the vehicles to be driven and in a perfect situation not severe-duty you could go extended oil change intervals but we don't live in the perfect situation we live in severe Duty times and we treat our vehicles very poorly and the manufacturer doesn't cover that part
There are many ways of managing oil in thoughtful ways especially in light of both saving time and reducing mess. You cannot generalize with your question. The comparison needs more details. If you switched to doing oil change yourself I would recommend Fumoto Japanese drain valve and clear hoses to drain oil to make your life easier. If your intervals are neat, oil of high quality, and engine is wearing slowly, then residual oil is not a big deal to begin with but since oil is fairly cheap, when I drain I dump 1/10 a liter of oil to push out old oil through drain but still it will not mean no old oil remains because bearings and the pump should keep hold of small remnants of oil anyways. So, MARGINS. Watch for leaks, check oil level weekly, and change oil within good margins. On Audi this should increase life of timing components and tensioners.
This is good advice as a rule of thumb. However, the best thing to do is to have a reputable shop like blackstone laboratories analyze your cars oil after a few changes. They can then identify wjat is best for your specific vehicle, climate, and driving conditions. They saved me from blowing up a motor once because a problem was caught early. Since then I can't say enough about their service.
Thanks for a great educational video I have a 2017 ford mustang with an eco boost turbo engine. I bought it brand new and according to Ford Australia their recommended oci is 15000kms or once a year. I have done 91000kms and recently its smelling a bit fumy.When i told them about it they said it was a bad pcv valve.They changed it and still very fumy. To be honest my engine has probably already been compromised I wish i had seen your video a few years ago. Anyway from now on i will do my own oil changes at 7000 - 8000kms or every 5 mths for the rest of my motoring life,regardless of what make or model i am driving. Cheers from downunder!
There is no time like the present, just shorten it up some Use a decent engine flush a couple times and shorten the oil change length up and you should be good
I know that all places at least back in the day when they put that sticker on your windshield was always 3 to 5k kilometers (the amount I'm not 100 percent sure of) OR every 3 months. I've no idea if places still preach this, since I've been doing my own oil for the last... 15 years? Yea, that's some gross stuff!
Recently I've been using Rotella T6 15W-40 in my 90's F150 5.0 roller with 125k miles I change it every 5k miles. Would you suggest doing this or using a different oil/grade? Thank You. Enjoy all your videos!
This is probably why electric vehicles are becoming more popular. No fluids to inspect or replace because people are too ignorant, lazy, or busy to bother until the vehicle has an issue. By then it's going to cost a lot. I don't understand why this happens. Oil changes are so inexpensive. Even if you go to Quick Lube shop. Shoot, you can go to Walmart or Costco, do your shopping while they change your oil...
Mario DIY - Wait until those EV people have to change out the Battery/ies on their car....In the thousands of dollars..... :) And add up all the Extra Hours spent, waiting to get the Battery charged at charging stations... :)
I keep seeing comments about various newer vehicles being very hard on oil. I wonder what the dealer and Ford think about your comments on changing oil at 5000 miles or sooner? What is the recommended interval from the factory for oil changes? interesting video, think about how many engines are going with extended oil change intervals.
my ford pass app originally told me 10,000 miles on a 2019 2.0 ecoboost lol, it was going off the way your drive. but then it seems to have gotten updated to to be more regular.
@@enacku 10k miles is max, probably highway usages. Changing my oil in the car once a year and about 12-18.000km. Sludge building up is probably from short trips, have seen that in the Fiat/Abarth 1.4T engines ( Europe version ).
I don't know why I would be concerned with what my dealer what Ford says about my oil change intervals? I'm not concerned with what somebody else thinks if what I'm stating is fact
And if you pull out your Ford service manual you'll see that most people try to operate under normal circumstances which and none of us operate under and then you have to switch over to the severe-duty circumstance which is closer to my recommendations except mine are just a little bit better So if you have any further questions about me being the professional that I am in the recommendations that I make please ask I'll answer them because I'm going to shoot you straight I don't care what anybody else thinks about what I say because I know what freaking works
I only drive 3,000 miles a year, if that, but I live in a rural area surrounded by 55mph roads, few traffic lights. While I trade vehicles every 3 years, I finally get it, and started changing oil at the Ford dealer at least twice a year. One mechanic came out and thanked me, and said I was saving major damage in the near future. He also told me not to trust the tire pressure sensors, but rather manually check the tires monthly with a good gage, and to check under the hood frequently for rodent nests.
Boss Man, I still can't understand for the life of me why some are pushing this "20,000 mile" OCI. That is just bonkers to me. For some people who only make short trips, that could end up being several years! I understand there are some really expensive "high performance" oils out there so maybe they are trying to justify their high cost, but it's really being penny wise and pound foolish. For people who say they "don't have the money" I say "hogwash". You can purchase a 5 qt jug of Chevron synthetic blend oil for about $17 at Walmart and get a Motorcraft filter for another $4. So that's $21 for a very low budget oil change. If you don't have any money, you can certainly afford $21 to at least do that if nothing else. Sure beats not doing the oil change at all.
But Scotty says one year 🤣🤣🤣🤣. I’m very paranoid about my oil changes. You’re the only person I let touch my vehicles & you know how clean my engine is. I do my oil every 3k miles or 5 months
In fairness Scotty does say 3000-5000 miles, and a year maximum but it’s not best. He says pretty much the same, oil is cheap, engines are expensive. But he also hates eco boost engines too ;).
My 2020 Ecoboost Mustang with the high performance package I bought in March of 21’ is approaching 7k miles and it’s 3rd oil change. I installed a JLT oil separator as soon as I got the car.
I change oil 6 months max. Even with a few hundred miles. I can see and smell the difference. I always warm up to normal and rev to 2000 or 3000 on short runs. My engines are very clean. I put gas preservative in, and lucas gas clean and they start instantly even at teen temps. I may be silly, but I change filters every time. As a youngin my oil burners would freeze on and crush fram filters. Change often and hand tighten filters 3/4 turn apx. It has always been a successful 300,000 mile plus on my autos.
Looks like a lot of short trips, never getting the engine up to temp to burn off the condensation, sad with only 18,000 miles. Looks like it had 150k hard miles on it.
I've always said oil is cheaper than an engine. Took my recently purchased Camry in and had it changed. They told me I could go 10k. I was at 4k. Told them to change it anyway. These long intervals just don't sit well with me.
Shop I go too know me by name I could do it myself but I live in an apartment and where I park is kinda gravel area so I can’t really do oil changes there. Sometimes I go to my friends garage but the shop knows I want just basic oil and I do 5000 oil intervals. Cars almost 20 years old still driving down the road why’ll most new cars I see on flat bed tow trucks
Yes even my first oil I was told I could push it out to 7k up to 10k but I did it at maybe 2k because to me it is the break in oil and break in was over although not completely. At 96k now and still no oil burning.
I do my Toyota every 5k maybe 7500 when I go on vacation and it's all highway but definitely 10k is too long if you plan to keep it for longer then 75-100k even now I have 4500k on my oil and it's feeling like it needs changed.
Thanks for the video! What do you mean by "such little coolant intrusion it never really affected the oil or anything like that"? How do you figure out that there is a coolant intrusion and what is the connection between coolant intrusion and oil? Does the 1.0L Ecoboost have same problems? Thank you!
You should look in my library at coolant intrusion it affects the 1.5 L the 1.6 L and the 2.0 liter from about 2015 to Mid 2019 and these are EcoBoost engines the 1.0 liter does not have that problem but they issue the 1.0 liter EcoBoost does have is it has a oil pump driven by a belt and that built stretches and it doesn't pump enough oil and sometimes the motor can lock up on the older 1.0 liter EcoBoost so because that belt is lubricated with oil I would not be waiting a long time to change my oil
I change my oil once a year on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost. I'm retired and only drive it 4000 miles per year. When I drive it I make sure to run it for a half hour to get the engine and transmission up to full operating temp. Many of my trips are around 75 miles. I have a beater car for running errands around town.
I'm going to have to disagree. My father's TDI got 10,000 miles and a synthetic oil change when they came due, about twice a year it got changed. Thing has never had an engine issue, emissions systems not withstanding as the DPF went at 200k miles and was covered under warranty and the EGR valve is now toast. The high salt diet is what really killed that thing. Maybe it makes a difference at 300k miles but there isn't a passenger vehicle in existence that can survive that long where I live before the frame is gone and about all the parts have been replaced. No idea why the mechanics and engineers disagree so much over it oil change intervals, the new oil is light-years better than the stuff from 30 years ago.
There is no disagreeing There is me educating people and those who don't give a crap what they screw up and keeping doing it out of ignorance My profession speaks for itself and your ideology doesn't
@@chicanobluesaz4191 lol I'm not tearing down a running 350k km diesel for some dude on the internet. Maybe I'll send you a video of it getting an emissions delete.
Yes, its called cooperate greed, they downsized the engines that much, that they are all junk. A normal and proper build engine should not have a problem with an 12 month and 8k interval.
I do 5k in about 3 months. Fresh full synthetic with a premium filter every time without fail. Wife's ride barely does 5k in a year, still gets changed twice a year, always right before summer, then again after summer. We're in Texas, so even cooler weather is unpredictable.
I run three old Fords, 1979-86 drive around 1,000 miles per vehicle per year, and replace the oil on them once a year, every year with premium AmsOil. Probably nearly a decade at this point. I have yet to have a problem with any of my motors and oil issues, and my 79 Continental doesn't even burn oil. The used oil flows well even at cold temperature off the stick, and looks brand new in the dump oil pan flowing hot out on oil changes. This isn't arguing with you, or giving bad advice to others. Just a simple statement of fact. My old Cleaveland and Windsors seem to be doing fine on the once a year oil change.
I get what you're saying but by you saying what you're saying here that actually can retract from my message to other people so when you say I'm not trying to do this you actually are doing it and I know you don't mean anything by it
The engine in this video is a small, turbo'd gasoline engine. That's what he is mainly addressing. These ecoboosts run hard and hot, they are a lot rougher on oil and components. Totally different animal. If what you're doing works for your vehicles then cool, but for the context of this video it couldn't be less relevant.
@@krod2162 I believe Mr. Mitchum made a good point, that these motors aren't bad designs, but that they are designs that need much higher maintenance. My old Cleaveland and Windsor V-8's are naturally aspirated, and either port injected or carb'ed, which can run very dirty with less to almost no problems compared to modern direct injection. Keeping any motor clean from carbon is good, but in DI it is crucial. Turbos are, indeed, hard on oil. All that heat helps to break down the oil much faster compared to cool running naturally aspirated. So, yes, again, it isn't a problem inherent with the Ford EcoBoost, but rather a consideration of all and any turbocharger. When properly maintained the EcoBoost seems to be a reliable engine that holds up well, showing they aren't a junk motor that is poorly designed. But a touchy motor that needs more care than a big old NA low compression cast iron workhorse.
When I change my 6.7 powerstroke oil 3-4K it will not be black with soot more like dark honey color I add friction reducer and have a draft tube even the old 7.3 with no emissions had more soot in the oil not sure why New subscriber Thanks
I also agree with your what you are saying I have a 2000 tundra I have change the oil every 3000 miles and I use full synthetic 5-30 I have 245,000 on it and it does not even use a quarter of a quart between oil changes I know they say you can go longer with synthetic oil but I just change it every 3000 anyway oils cheap
I change my oil twice a year based on temperature. 5W-30 in the hot summer and 0W-30 in the freezing winter. Lighter oil in the winter helps the engine start easily, oil reaches parts of the engine faster, less strain on the oil pump and starter and you get heating faster too!
Should you rely on the oil change service life gauge for a recommended oil change? And if so, at what percent? For the carbon build up on the motor in the video, I wonder if an oil catch can would have made a difference? After all, isn't it a direct injected turbo?
I dont even trust owner manuals when it comes to oil changes. Some car manuals will say 5,000 mile oil change, 7,000 miles with synthetic. I'm sorry but your just asking for trouble. I dont know what sone of these engineers are thinking when they conclude this stuff.
@@FordBossMe well the pandemic caused a lot of problems. 2007 Ford 500 and went about a year and 4000 miles. Some people say a year is fine... others say every 6 months. I notice a burnt rubber smell from engine after driving .
Great advice.... Corolla Hybrid SE AWD 4 month intervals / Calgary, AB Mobil 1 OW-16 + Toyota Filter January, February, March, April May, June, July, August Sept, Oct, November, December 5,000 kilometers = 3,125 miles ✅ 6,000 kilometers = 3,750 miles ✅ 7,000 kilometers = 4,375 miles ✅ 8,000 kilometers = 5,000 miles ✅
My '01 Chevy conversion van oil gets changed about annually. It gets stored indoors during the winter months and when I do change it, which will be this week, it's still pretty decent from an optics standpoint. Hash marks are still very visible on the dipstick and doesn't burn any with no lifter tick. I'm in upstate NY and my trips included WVA, KY , and FL last year before putting her down for the season. A good oil and filter with driving habits that allow the oil to do its job will allow you to do those o/c intervals
Thanks for the vid! What if you have a vehicle that only gets driven 2-3000 miles per year? Do you think a yearly change is enough with a high quality full synthetic?
i have a 09 focus with 215,000 miles and have always done the oil at 5000 mile interval and the oil would just be starting to darken, I went out and bought a new 21 escape with the dragon 1.5 and it is crazy hard on oil, at 2500 miles its oil is much darker than the oil in the focus with twice the miles and they both are driven the same commuter route. makes me want to add a oil cooler to it.
Ford Boss Me, after you buy a new car, when should you get the first oil change, assuming you are using full synthetic? I have a 2021 Mazda 3 that I bought this past November. The car now has 2,700 miles. Mazda recommends the first oil change at 9,000 miles. The dealer recommends 5,000 miles. I never had a new car before, but didn't it used to be that your first oil change on a new car should be at 500 or 1,000 miles? I'm curious as to your opinion.
Hey Rich, What do you think about putting a pre-oiling system and/or a bypass block on these vehicles. They'd then have oil immediately available upon start up and an additional filter getting the smallest particles down to a micron out
@@FordBossMe Full flow filtering would be beneficial. By-pass filtering is less than ideal. Looking at the parts, and being turbocharged, and a dinky little engine trying to replace a big horse causes a Hell of a lot of heat to be generated, in a very short time. More heat than maybe is being considered. I'd be taking a good long look at the oil, I'm thinking it's questionable if this particular oil, (by mil-spec or equivalent) is adequate for the application. I understand DI gas engines have poor injectors. In that the leak. This is contributing to the degradation of the oil. I'd almost consider using Rotella T despite it seems a bit much, it can deal with the temperatures generated by turbocharged engines, the higher detergent may, or may not be beneficial. I know plenty of people using diesel engine lubricating oil in gas engines with no ill effects. You're more experienced with these engines, but this does seem worth considering, I think. My thing is hot rod diesel power 14-15 litre.
@@FordBossMe That's an oil "accumulator" I was referring to a remote with a full flow and a bypass on the same block. It refines in a sense down to 1 micron.
1000% agreed with the 3k, 4k, and 5k intervals. i have a 21 silverado that turned a year old this february she just hit 18k and i changed the oil 6 times already using dexos approved shit (cuz gm) with an acdelco pf63 filter preventative maintenance is key
Whats your recommend oil change interval for a diesel truck (3 gallon capacity) that gets driven weekly reaches operating temperature every time its driven and between 200-400 miles a month
I totally agree with all information given, but what about diesels? If you have any knowledge on the diesel aspect i would greatly appreciate any information given.
Couldn’t agree more. I change my oil every 3k it’s all highway driving 70+ mph for about 45 minutes. 08 Honda CR-V 210k mikes recently was under the hood and took out the VVT oil control valve filter screen (never been off or cleaned before) and it was completely spotless not one spec of carbon/sludge. I use Napa 520 synthetic oil which I think is made by valvoline
But you have a Honda K24A engine which is renown for extreme durability and longevity. These new small-displacement GDI/turbo engines are a completely different animal.
I had commented on a previous 1.5L video. I was wondering if you could advise on what the 1.5L situation is like at present in the dealerships, regarding parts availability? My wife’s 2019 is in now P0303. I’m in the north east coast, Her car is driven long distances because she travels for work RI, NH, MA, ME, VT, so it is driven well. We’re really excellent on maintenance too, 3,000 or 3 months on her 1.5 and My 6.2 F250 sees 40K/yr, typical 6 to 8 oil changes per year on my 6.2. Thank for the phenomenal documentation you do.
@@FordBossMe Thank you, I think we’re going to plan for the worst case scenario, a few months without her car. I read the code on my own, didn’t erase it. When I researched online and saw your videos I learned about the issue. The dealer said they couldn’t look or diagnose the car for 2-3 weeks..It’s been there 2 weeks now. It’s a ‘19 26K.
Just got it back, 2 weeks downtime, short block was done. CEL and oil light less than 30 miles driven after picking up. Observed lack of power, rattle upon light throttle, and running poorly, no power to merge onto highway. Currently back at the dealer. Lucky me, wish I could’ve taken it to you.
Id be interested in what oil was used..and how many idling hours on this machine, but looks to meone year changes of 3k, and Seafoam added to crankcase 25-50 miles before draining "hot" oil out would be called for
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci for all vehicles was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! ive replaced oil that still looked like honey ! oil is cheap ! engines and labor are not !
For me, not being stranded on the side of the road is, priceless.
Oil changes are cheap, especially when you do it at home...I'll never understand people who don't do preventative maintenance.
a little TLC goes along way.
@@JT-lq4yd i always been an oil change fanatic sometimes just being bored but just the feeling i did something good for my. truck !
I have a feeling 6 mo/4,000 miles isn't really giving us the full picture. It would be interesting to know how many idle hours accumulated during that time. I'm thinking well above what the average passenger vehicle accumulates.
Engine builders have known all along that turbocharging and direct injection lead to shortened engine life. Changing the oil and filter with high quality products helps component longevity, but asking these small displacement engines to perform like their long- gone larger displacement predecessors
Hence why Ford's new workhorse 7.3L gas (2020+) is a port injected, naturally asperated push rod motor. Built for maximum durability & reliability....Not to mentioned ease of maintenance.
I’ll bet turbocharged Toyota engines don’t self destruct after 18K miles. Regardless of what Ford apologists tells you.
OK, I’ll bit, so a turbo charged engine can’t make it to 18K miles (with 3 oil changes), seriously. Most engines can make it to 80K miles with zero oil changes as long as you top off the oil to make sure it does not get low. Even turbocharged engines. I’m not sure what to say about comments like this.
Amen, brother! This clueless “mechanic” just wants clicks.
@@user-jy8ew2xc9g I agree, most automotive turbocharged engines are good for at least 200K miles if maintained properly.
Oil cleanliness is even more critical for turbocharged engines.
The no.1 killer for turbos is dirty oil.
In Europe, constantly failing turbos seemed to become a thing when these 15-25K service intervals became the norm.
No.2 killer for turbos is heat soak from the turbine/exhaust side when the engine is shutdown after a hard run - the heat soaks into the oil in the bearing races, cooks the oil and carbonises it meaning there's a load of abrasive particles in the bearing race when the turbo starts spinning on the next start up.
Always idle a turbocharged engine for 2-3mins before shutting down as the oil flow carries that extreme heat away. In operators manuals for industrial engines they always say to do this.
SMH, shame. When my wife got a new vehicle at retirement a few years back, their "service dept." complained to my wife that me changing the oil every 3,000 miles was not necessary. She told them "He does that so our engines can hit 200,000 to 300,000+ miles before they get replaced". Their manufacturer oil change interval = engines last until just out of warranty .
If even. Working at a Ford dealership in Germany we have multiple recalls on Transit Custom vehicles on which the timing belt degrades due to 50.000 k / 2 year oil change intervalls and ultimately clogs the oil pickup.
I do every 5000 and I drive heavy in the city but haven’t had any issues I would not go over 5000 though and I see people go 12k 20k and I cringe and think how’s that motor still going it’s gotta be slugged up
Today's synthetic oils work fine with an OEM filter for about 7k miles as long as you're not desert racing. Clean oil helps engines last but changing oil these days at 3k miles is just pouring money down the drain. I will be changing my oil soon. It has 6k miles on it. I checked it last week. It still looks good but the golden color is becoming brown. That's about the right time.
@@wsbill14224 agree, 5k miles or 6 months, whatever comes first!
@@wsbill14224 sorry hoffman, butt colour does NOT indicate time 4 a change... a friend changes his every 12k & uses m1& a fram filter... his oil was BLACK AS COAL, where as my AMSOIL signature series in lexus nx200t went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days, going 23,671 miles & testing showed it only lost a little viscosity... nothing else butt AMSOIL in my cars.
A couple weeks back, I tore down a 4.6 2v pulled out of my Crown Vic 2 years ago. This engine religiously got oil changes every 3 months using Motorcraft 5w20 or 5w30 (depending on how hot outside) synthetic along with Motorcraft FL820s oil filters. This engine was pulled at 245,000 miles due to oil consumption. Well, the oil consumption turned out due to bad valve stem seals. The inside of the engine was far cleaner than the engine in this video. There was not one piston in the engine that looked anything like the one in this video. In fact, all of the bearings had almost no wear whatsoever on them, the crank journals looked freshly polished. Checked the journals, all are in exceptional shape with no discernable wear according to my micrometer. In fact, the crank looks as if it has just been machined - it's that fresh. It is hard to believe this engine in your video has only 18k miles on it with what you see. This is why oil changes are so important. Oil will oxidize in the crankcase just from father time doing his thing.
Same with my 165,000 mile 4.6 2V. It's absolutely spotless on the inside and it looks more like an engine with 6500 miles on it. It was that clean. I had the cam covers off to replace the gaskets, thats the only reason I had to open it up.
That's not what Blackstone labs will tell you, they will tell you the age of the oil means nothing. Read my comment above.
Thanks for the reminder and reinforcement... Your videos on oil changes have got me to switch my '97 F-150 over to a time based oil change interval since it is much like the car in this video, very short trips and extremely rare highway time.
Absolutely 💯. The one thing that bothers me is the lack of education at the point of sale and by manufacturers. It isn't taught how crucial maintenance is with these boosted engines. The general public who are not auto enthusiasts got away for so long without doing proper maintenance, it isn't even on their radar. Instead we have manufacturers making maintenance free claims like on transmissions. Then they don't want to warranty failures. The blame goes full circle. We appreciate people like you who are trying to educate everyone. 🙂🐶
in comes long life low saps oils and manufacturers recommending 20k mile changes so that the fleet service costs seem low.
@corey Babcock👍🏼 Hi Corey! 🙂
Ecoboost is a turbocharged engine. Turbos are rough on engine oil. Especially when you short trip them.
A quality turbo engine would go 80K more miles with no oil changes (just top offs to make sure the oil level is adequate). This clown is making excuses for a poorly designed/built Ford engine.
I've always changed my oil every 3K (back in the day before synthetic came around) and every 5K with synthetic. I have two vehicles; a DD and "family hauler" for trips/family reunions. Both are set at the 5K oil change interval. The family hauler usually times out before the mileage is up, even with my running it on a week and off a week. It gets changed every 6 months whether it meets the 5K mark or not. Both of my vehicles are NA.
Such as been said before "Oil is cheap, new engines aren't"
Appreciate the wisdom! I'm a 21 year old who just bought a 22 Edge last month and I definitely have needed this advice since this is my first ecoboost turbo car. I definitely was more lax with oil changes on my old Honda.
I tore down a 5.3 LM7 that I bought from a scrap yard a few years back. I could tell they definitely didn't keep up on the maintenance oil, or coolant. It actually had 2 seized up main bearings from where the oil had caked up though the years and clogged the oil pickup screen. Coolant passages where showing signs of beginning to corrode. I've always done my best to keep my vehicles and my families vehicles well maintained. Take good car of your vehicles and they'll last much longer, and have less problems. In the long run, the extra money for proper maintenance will save you big time on otherwise costly repairs from not taking care of it. I think some people don't understand that theory. Great video Rich, thank you and God bless you.
Seen those with 400k+ so maintenance is a must
This one right up my alley. My 18 escape w/ the 1.5 only made it for a change once in the past year. I drive a service van so it has extremely low miles but hopefully my busy/laziness didn’t do too much damage. I know better and this vid was a nice kick in the ass. Thnx.
ProjectFarm did an extended oil analysis test on 2 different vehicles. U can look it up. ProjectFarm, “Will Annual oil change damage your car”.
And project Farm is just a man he has no formal training he is not a technician although I do like his work I don't go watch his stuff because then it taints my work that I put out here because I also do oil testing and long-term use I don't need project for him to tell me because I'm more trained than he is I am more certified than he is and I actually do testing a little bit different than he does so I don't need anybody to tell me to go watch somebody that has not even got my skill set but just knows how to do some good testing which I respect he is not me and he does not have the ability to do what I do
Wow. Taking it hard ......
I 100% agree with your statement. I think what a lot of people do by mistake is buy good quality oil but skimp on the quality of the oil filter 🤷♂️
Most filters are pretty decent. The problem is the turbo raises the cylinder temps and that scorches the oil. The add pak goodies in the oil break down rapidly at high temps. If you aren't using oil formulated to eke out a few more miles under those conditions and changing it often you'll end up with this mess pretty quickly. Eventually you'll coke up the rings anyway despite using decent oil and changing it often. You're running a turbo at higher than reasonable HP per CC. It's the nature of the beast.
Ford is extracting a lot of power per cube on that little four banger using a turbo with an intercooler. When you increase performance above a fairly arbitrary threshold by pressurizing an engine you'll begin to experience shorter engine component life from pressure and thermal issues. Using an intercooler or water injection will help somewhat but it will not exempt you from basic high school chemistry and physics... Boyles gas laws. Higher pressure means higher temperature. Add combustion to that and you can coke up the combustion & oil rings and actually melt internals if you're not careful.
GM turbocharged the short lived 1962-63 Jetfire F85 Oldsmobile. GM used alcohol/water injection to drop cylinder temps but still had problems with melted pistons and other turbo associated issues because they were running fairly close to the bleeding edge.
SAAB, Volvo, VW and even GM used superchargers and turbochargers on automobiles for several decades and had slightly better results but they weren't pushing performance as close the bleeding edge as Ford is with this engine and GM was on the Jetfire.
Agreed 100%
@@TheOcculus Then if you have a direct injected engine the valves are going to be problematic too. They will need to be cleaned every once in a while since fuel no longer cleans them.
If you get any decent brand-name oil filter you'll be fine. The problem is interval not the type of oil or filter. You can get the cheapest conventional oil on sale and your engine will be as happy as the highest quality synthetic oil if your interval is good.
I think the mistake people make is buying the expensive redline oils and think they are good for an absurd amount of miles between oil changes. You are better off with Pennzoil full synthetic and changing it more often. Don’t be ridiculous. Oil is oil no matter how much it costs it breaks down and gets contaminated sooner than you think.
I have a raptor. I use Amsoil full synthetic which claims to be one year or 25,000 miles. I have two vehicles, one is a designated work vehicle and I’m lucky to put 5000 miles a year on my raptor. But no matter what I change The oil every six months with this Amsoil. Even if I only have 2000 miles on the oil. It’s getting changed! Great advice in your video. My truck will sit for a week without being started. The longer it sits, the more wear and tear on the engine.
NOT w/AMSOIL, ur wrong... read my response 2 william hoffman above... ur experience w/AMSOIL should dictate usage, NOT the old fashioned way wen they used real oil out of the ground... also hope ur using an AMSOIL filter, it helps... AMSOIL is NOT " full " synthetic, it is 100 % SYNTHETIC, basically the only 1 that is... YES, there is a BIG difference... research it a little further... 4 ur info, i use & sell AMSOIL products...
@@brucek.hoffman5868 twin turbos run hot, fuel 100% gets into the oil, let’s just call that a contaminant in the oil. this also causes wear and tear. these are also reasons I use Amsoil. But I am strongly considering switching to red line after seeing the results of it on this channel it appears to be better than Amsoil. and that red line will get changed just the same.… I don’t care what is 100% full synthetic. Everything breaks down... so no, I’m not wrong. You’re literally telling me I’m wrong for changing my oil 🤦
Just use Supertech
Not according to my multi year oil analysis of Amsoil. The TBN of Amsoil will allow the base in the oil to last 25k, but soot and particle contamination effects it like every other oil. Without bypass filtration Amsoil should be treated like every other oil on the market. Did a 12k test with amsoil and had 3 times iron wear vs using Kirkland and changing at 3k.
Where I work, a few years ago they decided to start using a oil filter called green filters and I think it was using recycled oil also. The real issue was 20,000 mile OCI for all the service trucks. Mind you we are the largest telecommunications company in the USA. Us techs laughed when that initiative came out. They replaced untold amounts of engines. Needless to say we are back at 5k OCI’s. I change my personal oil every 3k or twice a year. Don’t get me started on my boat OCI’s. I change it about every 10 hours of use. It’s a V8. Love your videos FBM! Keeps us in-line….
Did they ever factor in idle time on these trucks? 20,000 miles on a truck that idles 75% or more of it's life is a huge difference vs a truck that idles 10% of it's time.
@@jeffs2809 How do you know how long those trucks idle in the first place???
@@frandanco6289 hours are usually stored in the ecm on most modern vehicles. I’ve seen plenty of aftermarket add-on hour meters. A lot of fleet vehicles have more in-depth tracking available that may be aftermarket. Just depends on who’s most interested.
As far as figuring “idle” hours, maybe I should’ve phrased it as engine or running hours. My point was that if you have 2 trucks each with 10,000 miles on them & 1 added 250 hours & the other added 750 hours. I’d bet that higher hour truck is doing a lot of idling.
I think people hear short trips and idling and don’t believe it’s a big deal. I think they would understand better if they understood that water condensation is a huge product of short tripping and that WATER OXIDIZES OIL FAST. Oxidized oil doesn’t do a good job!
I have a mechanic friend that has a 2000 chevy cavalier 2.2L with over 500k miles of highway driving. He used full synthetic oil and changed it every 5k miles. As far as I know it's still running. Last I talked with him it was at about 540,000. Made a believer out of me! He used 5w30 mobile 1 majority of the time. He has recently switched to shell Rotella t6 5w40 because oil pressure was dropping low on hot days.
I had a 1997 Sunfire with the 2.2. I bought it from a teacher who drove an hour highway commute everyday. I got an Encyclopedia Britannica sized stack of maintenance records with it. It had 360,000 miles on it when I bought it and I put 20K on it before I bought a new car. The oil was changed religiously every 3000 miles with synthetic blend and it still had the original clutch in it. I always preach to people about maintenance, but it seems like Noone wants to take the time or effort to do it.
@@hewgull That's right if you maintain them they will last and give you less trouble 👍
I'm the maintenance guy at my company, we were running conventional oil with the cheap STP filters. I changed the oil change guidelines to full synthetic oil and Wix XP filters a few weeks ago because I pulled the valve cover on on one of our Nissan frontier pickup trucks and found it full of sludge. The oil was changed at 5k miles every time like clockwork and was changed 15 times the following year.
Thank you for the voice over without the shop noise. I appreciate the work you put into this content.
That video is amazing man....i never knew this can happen even with little driving thank you for letting us know
Low mileage usually means short trips.
Constant shot trips/run time is classed as SEVERE DUTY by any engine manufacturer automotive, commerical, marine or industrial, doesn't matter. Most manufacturers call for oil change intervals to be cut in half if useage is classed as severe.
What it it's low milage because it sits in the driveway and used twice a week?
@@GPz84 That's an exception but not the norm. Hence why I said 'usually'.
Generally though, if it's a case of not being used much but when it is used it gets a good long run, that's generally ok. On old engines without proper pcv systems you still have to keep an eye on condensation building up in the oil.
Personally I've always recommended an oil and filter change once a year to all my customers - oil and filters are the cheapest insurance you can get for any engine.
Oh dear, you are talking about my driving patterns. I don't put 5K/year combined on my 2 vehicles now days. I do try to get them up to temp when I drive them but this time of year that might not happen. I change the oil around once a year or 3K miles. The car does get some highway miles but only once a month now days. The pickup hasn't been out of town since I got it almost 3 years ago. Thanks for the videos.
This is a new information for me about oil changes, thanks for the video..!
Thank you for the video. Will definitely keep an eye out for this. I do wonder though if Ford realized exactly how dirty this engine could get over its lifetime?
My dad was this guy lol. Even with the recommendations and tips from his technician son, he only did an oil change once a year on his 05’ f150. his engine started setting timing codes one day and eventually detonated. Multiple camshaft caps were broken in 2 and the engine was locked up. Lucky for him I got him my employee discount on an engine and parts but it still cost him a pretty penny and a good month without his truck waiting on parts. Lesson learned the hard way lol.
DFI and turbo... lots of heat, lots of carbon buildup on intake valves (carbon acts as an insulator and repository of heat), so even more heat can't be disapated and it becomes a vicious circle. Another strategy to slow carbon buildup (piston tops) is to use PEA based fuel treatments (Amoco, STP complete fuel system cleaner, etc). Try to use full synthetic oils (less likely to lead to deposits and sludge)... more expensive up front, but much cheaper than an engine.
This right here. Straight(non-port) fuel inj. on top of duty cycles and heat with improper oil changes, you're just begging for disaster.
Oh yes, use fuel additives becausethat will make the fuel clean the valves..... Seafoam it
Or buy Toyota which has no carbon problems because they waited before releasing their direct injected engines and added multi-port with them to help keep the valves clean. Ford is starting to follow Toyotas lead by adding it back to their engines. Toyota is not perfect, but they damn sure do not rush to release new technology until they test it long enough. Toyota tests a full year longer than Ford. Ford rarely stops Assembly lines over issues discovered, but Toyota encourages workers stop the line if they see an issue. If you want real quality and a better chance at a reliable vehicle buy Toyota or Honda. Ford sucks and I am so glad I traded my 2015 crap Fusion in on a Toyota. The Fusion was in the shop many times before 20k miles. At 22k miles it had a cracked cylinder head in 3 places and the mechanic said it was a flaw from the forge and should never have made it to assembly that is how pissy poor Ford quality is.
@@JasPlun Thats a shame about your fusion, the last generation with the aston martin grills look great and i think the interiors are nice. For an everyday sedan i dont think you can beat a 4cyl camry or corolla. I have never seen struts on a toyota/lexus es sedan go bad and they wear tires pretty evenly. They are also easy/possible to align, even older rusty ones in NE. I am talking 2015ish and prior before the most recent redesign,. If i recall right they changed the rear suspension design so i think they will be prone to the adjustment seizing up. Honda is not bad but more issues than toyota, oil dilution, more complexity with turbos, rear struts go bad, front camber on most is not adjustable.
@@connor3288 We actually liked the cars looks that is the main reason we baught it that and the price I got it for was good. The car handled fine and had a nice ride. The Fusion also had the best damn air conditioner we have ever had it would get cold super fast and freeze you out in a hurry. It is still better than our new Camry in that regard. I did not like the popping sound made by the wind if you wanted to drive with the windows down either. That car was a strictly windows closed vehicle imo. They say they have transmission problems at about 80k miles, but I do not believe that to be caused by the design and more on people not servicing the transmission properly. It had a good transmission. It was not very reliable engine wise at least the one we had. I tried to diagnose and fix some of the problems myself, but in the end the Fusion is a car that is cheap for a reason they do not hold up long term. I like to buy and keep a car for at least 150k to 200k miles and I almost expect to get that pretty much trouble free for the prices they are selling cars and trucks today. In the end the 2020 Camry SE we have now blows it away in build quality, but its a Toyota:P
Learning more n more from u every day. Thanks!
There he is, how's everything going
We just started snow an hour ago
@@FordBossMe 🥱
@@FordBossMe easy
Ford Boss you called it again. Great video sir, TMP from N.J.
100% agree. I own a Ford Flex 3.5L with 112,000 and an EB 2.0L Fusion with 66,000 and I change the oil every 3 months. These vehicles see sometimes less than 3,000 between OCIs and I've had absolutely no issues with them.
That’s a little ridiculous
😅😂@@anthonyr5869
Seeing the piston, it also looks like the oil control ring groove is very small, tbh to small.
VAG 2.0TFSI had the same thing using oil before 100k km.
Thanks again for the video and info. See can’t believe some folks still neglect oil changes. I thought I saw a White Castle in the background at the beginning of your video. Making me hungry for a sack of sliders! 😋
I just bought a new 2021 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine and appreciate your expertise and advice on maintaining it. It is my first Ecoboost engine. It will primarily be my daily drivers, but I do tow a travel trailer for get aways every 2 to 3 months. I’d also appreciate your thoughts on schedules for other fluid maintenance, such as transmission, differential, and coolant changes. Also, with the cam phaser/timing belt issues, would It be a good idea to also install an oil catch can. I did see your video on how to avoid the cold start rattles. Thanks again for making your videos. You provide a great service to Ford customers.
No amount of oil changes will stop the timing chain stretch and cam phasers knocking that’s just bad designs or the turbos cracking the housings and leaking coolant internally that I have never seen that on a aftermarket turbo even on 1500+hp motors. They make great power but it’s a trade off on longevity unfortunately
Thanks for this video, Boss. My grandmother has an older Ford and somehow some tech convinced her and my mother to only change the oil once a year. I had to use said vehicle recently and can hear noises I shouldn't hear. I am sending this to them. I even suggested they do it twice a year (every six months). Thanks again for this video!
I would Put 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil and run it 1,000 Miles. Make sure to install a New Oil Filter, You wouldn't need to do a full Oil change (unless you have the extra $$), Just make sure not to Over Fill the oil..... 4.6 engines Oil filter hold around 3/4 of a Quart of Oil so that should be enough drained by doing that, Or just crack the drain plug and let some come out. After 1,000 Miles that Mystery Oil should clean it up pretty good and you'll *Have* to change the *Oil*
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun& GeritoS. Yea that is a good idea with the MARVEL Mystery Oil. 👌 Make sure you can get on the highway for a good while so that the oils good and hot, allowing that MMO to really get in to every nook and cranny of the valve train, timing chain assembly, etc... I'd run a half quart or more in it after that all the time, especially if they are running a conventional oil in it for her. A full synthetic and a little MMO all the time would really help her engine and your peace of mind too! Good Luck !!!( Rob; Is that your sister Janie? that has a Gun too! A little attempt at Aerosmith humor there😂)
@@tinamcgarrah7794 Yeah i use Marvel Mystery oil in everything i Buy or maybe once a Year, i noticed if i use it in my Gas on a Fuel injected vehicle you can definitely smell the Fumes from the Mystery oil when you first start it because they run really Rich on a Cold start
@@tinamcgarrah7794 and lol alot of people Mention Aerosmith, i like the song, I'm 27 so i do like Old School Rock, But these younger Kids don't have a Clue what Aerosmith is. My Gamertag on Xbox is "Robs Got A Gun" so i decided to make all of my Usernames the same thing
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun That's cool, Aerosmith was a very cool band. 😎 America's Stones kind of... Jagger and Richards...Tyler and Perry! Pretty much b4 your time, but with technology, they'll be there about forever to discover to those wishing too. It's better to have a gun,and not need it! Than to need it, and not have one! Yea MARVEL has that distinctive Wintergreen smell, but much better than Sulphur (rotten eggs), Cars in the 80's were bad for that, b4 they got the emission systems totally figured out...Only drawback to MMO is it will build up a little on the plugs after continued use. But hey I like cleaning and filing the plugs every once in a long while, it's just old school fun, and you'll see quick if a cylinder is going away on you!!! Well Aim True, and Squeeeeeeze the Trigger! JETHRO
I think a lot of people don’t realize the effect a turbo has on oil degradation. There’s zero margin for error.
Does direct injection also have oil degradation?
@@elgransr Two issues: fuel atomization in DI is usually dirtier with soot and oil gets blacker with soot particles as well. So as this guy right above me said, our lives with DI does suck more unnecessarily but we gain a little performance as well. On some engines and colder locations, fuel does go from the Direct Injection injectors onto cold cylinder walls and into oil so this is a problem as well. My oil oil always has more fine carbon and fuel due to the DI. New oils have been formulated to help but shorter OCI is mandatory as well. DI and Turbo have both resulted in phenomenally more expensive vehicle running costs to millions of drivers throughout the world. I would rather use regular unleaded and run my oil to 6-7k miles and get 33 mpg than get 35 mpg and pay so much more for super unleaded and expensive oil often. My DI Honda is a waste and a rip-off.
@@jamesmedina2062 The objective is less fuel getting passed out the exhaust valve during valve overlap. Direct injection accomplishes that. The EGR and lack of people running catch cans probably puts more garbage into the oil than a cold engine, rich mixture, and a heavy foot.
@@reubenmorris487 valve overlap was never presented as a primary motivation for DI. The efficiency and power improvements were by increasing manageable compression along with high tech knock control because the in-cylinder evaporation reduces temps and the fuel can be metered somewhat leaner. Higher compression increases power of course. Remember that the port injection is aimed right at the intake valve so it is not that different but in many cases the fuel atomization is better with port injection and the fuel particles are smaller thereby reducing large particle formation(soot). I will not disagree with your statement because I have not known or studied valve timing (and overlap) in depth. I have read more on pollution and soot formation
@@reubenmorris487 My car (turbo DI) does not use EGR.
Good video Rich, I live by that. My oil in all my vehicles gets changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. Even my Dodge Cummings gets changed twice a year and I typically only put 2000 miles a year on it outside of our vacations in which it changed when I get back.
People don't listen to us. They want to complain about the failure when it all boils down to oil is cheaper than a motor. Love your content. Keep it up!
Totally agree. People need to realize with changes in temperature throughout the year moisture will contaminate that oil
Exactly ... and combine that with barely driving it and short tripping it ... oil never heats up enough to "boil off" the moisture.
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! I changed out oil that still looked like honey ! Total cost $18 including full inspection ! oil and filters are cheap insurance , engines and labor are not !!
I'm glad you're sharing this info. Maybe it will change peoples habits and opinions.
He speaks facts! Thank you
WoW, the sludge, carbon and grime are amazing at that low mileage
I'm never buying an Ecoboost vehicle used because we know damn well hardly anyone is changing the oil enough .
Thanks Ford Boss me! I just reached 3,000 miles after my engine replacement. I will follow your recommendations. I will switch to full Synthetic Motorcraft 10w30. To help with sludge build up. Do you recommend the Full Synthetic instead of The Motorcraft blend. You don't say which oil they are using. Thanks, Again for everything you show and teach us about the Eco-Boost engines. Shawn.
I change my oil every 4 months regardless. Since I retired (was in public Service) I dont drive a much a lot of short trips but at least ince a week I go for a long drive to let the engine work at operating temp . Great info on this video!!!
5k a year is fine for a non turbo non gdi engine.
But in a turbo gdi ecoboost that idles a lot I wouldn't take that ford syn blend a year. I'd take it to 3k to be safe if I wanted to own it for a long time.
Of the year and a half I’ve owned my 1.5 fusion I’ve had to add coolant once I think. A quarter inch to the reservoir after 20,000 miles. It has 58000 miles on it though.
Same with me. 50k just about and besides last week, the last time I topped off my coolant was 2yrs ago
Maybe I'm delusional but I thought if you engine/cooling system was in good shape you didn't have to add coolant. I've easily put over 100k on vehicles without the coolant dropping.
My wife reached out to me as a wife; we are good now. I hope the same is going for you. I just told her I’m yanking that Jiffy Lube BS out of the car and replacing with the good stuff; Valvoline oil based one your recommendation. I’m in charge of maintenance on both my vehicles; and thanks too you, I’m Blessed to have your guidance here on TH-cam. You have helped me TREMENDOUSLY! AS ALWAYS, STAY BLESSED!
Tyvm be blessed
Depends a lot on the car, older cars were ok with standard oil changes.
Some engine are trash and need frequent oil changes like the MB270 , it's a nightmare.
6qts of oil in a 1.6 ( not the 2.0) and gets diluted like crazy cause of cat pre heating and GDI.
Seeing is believing. Teardown reveals alot here. Ford must love your "dirty engine" comments 🤣
Quick question Rich, was factory oil and filter used? Thanks again. Great channel
Absolutely but before we get into talking about the Integrity of the factory oil and filter I just did an analysis on it it's very good stuff
@@FordBossMe no I wasn’t questioning the factory oil was just wandering if they went to jiffy lube like place. I use factory oil 5 months or 3000 miles on my 250. So just curious
@@FordBossMe is the ford recommended oil full synthetic or partially synthetic
Thanks for the info great video
Thanks for the video. I am convinced.
I drive about 45k per year city driving. I change my oil every 4-5k with Mobil 1 and use k&n or Mobil 1 filter.
@FordBossMe 1) If someone has been doing a 12 month oil change interval, what's the best way to "recover" (to the extent possible) from that and clean up the crap that might have accumulated in the engine?
2) Last time I had an oil change done (2012 Audi 3.0-liter, 24-valve V-6 with direct injection, supercharging, intercooling), the technician sucked the oil out via the fill hole using a vacuum pump. I've been told that this isn't optimal because it doesn't allow particles in the bottom of the oil pan to get flushed out. Thoughts?
3) Not implying that you're not correct on the OCI info, but why doesn't Ford warn people about the 1x/year scenario in the owner's manual? Or do they?
Thanks, Rich! ALWAYS appreciate your enormous wisdom and willingness to share it.
I've covered this before with the recommendations from the manufacturer it would be redundant for me to continue to repeat this over and over again
The manufacturer expects the vehicles to be driven and in a perfect situation not severe-duty you could go extended oil change intervals but we don't live in the perfect situation we live in severe Duty times and we treat our vehicles very poorly and the manufacturer doesn't cover that part
@@FordBossMe Can you comment on vacuuming vs. draining oil? Thanks.
@@billy2bob63 I would do both of the methods at the same time so you wouldn’t make a big mess on the floor and get all the oil out.
Vacuuming is fine as long as the engine was just ran prior. Boat engines frequently don't even have another way to drain them.
There are many ways of managing oil in thoughtful ways especially in light of both saving time and reducing mess. You cannot generalize with your question. The comparison needs more details. If you switched to doing oil change yourself I would recommend Fumoto Japanese drain valve and clear hoses to drain oil to make your life easier. If your intervals are neat, oil of high quality, and engine is wearing slowly, then residual oil is not a big deal to begin with but since oil is fairly cheap, when I drain I dump 1/10 a liter of oil to push out old oil through drain but still it will not mean no old oil remains because bearings and the pump should keep hold of small remnants of oil anyways. So, MARGINS. Watch for leaks, check oil level weekly, and change oil within good margins. On Audi this should increase life of timing components and tensioners.
This is good advice as a rule of thumb. However, the best thing to do is to have a reputable shop like blackstone laboratories analyze your cars oil after a few changes. They can then identify wjat is best for your specific vehicle, climate, and driving conditions. They saved me from blowing up a motor once because a problem was caught early. Since then I can't say enough about their service.
Regardless this is the rule of thumb that people should go back
Thanks for a great educational video
I have a 2017 ford mustang with an
eco boost turbo engine. I bought it brand new and according to Ford
Australia their recommended oci is
15000kms or once a year. I have done 91000kms and recently its smelling a bit fumy.When i told them about it they said it was a bad pcv valve.They changed it and still very fumy. To be honest my engine has probably already been compromised
I wish i had seen your video a few years ago. Anyway from now on i will do my own oil changes at 7000 -
8000kms or every 5 mths for the rest of my motoring life,regardless of what make or model i am driving.
Cheers from downunder!
There is no time like the present, just shorten it up some
Use a decent engine flush a couple times and shorten the oil change length up and you should be good
I know that all places at least back in the day when they put that sticker on your windshield was always 3 to 5k kilometers (the amount I'm not 100 percent sure of) OR every 3 months. I've no idea if places still preach this, since I've been doing my own oil for the last... 15 years? Yea, that's some gross stuff!
I get my oil changed done before and after winter (winter is around 6 months). I know it's odd
Recently I've been using Rotella T6 15W-40 in my 90's F150 5.0 roller with 125k miles
I change it every 5k miles. Would you suggest doing this or using a different oil/grade?
Thank You. Enjoy all your videos!
I will follow your advice. I currently drive about 3,000 a year and have been changing my oil every 6 months.
This is probably why electric vehicles are becoming more popular. No fluids to inspect or replace because people are too ignorant, lazy, or busy to bother until the vehicle has an issue. By then it's going to cost a lot.
I don't understand why this happens. Oil changes are so inexpensive. Even if you go to Quick Lube shop. Shoot, you can go to Walmart or Costco, do your shopping while they change your oil...
Mario DIY - Wait until those EV people have to change out the Battery/ies on their car....In the thousands of dollars..... :) And add up all the Extra Hours spent, waiting to get the Battery charged at charging stations... :)
I keep seeing comments about various newer vehicles being very hard on oil. I wonder what the dealer and Ford think about your comments on changing oil at 5000 miles or sooner? What is the recommended interval from the factory for oil changes? interesting video, think about how many engines are going with extended oil change intervals.
my ford pass app originally told me 10,000 miles on a 2019 2.0 ecoboost lol, it was going off the way your drive. but then it seems to have gotten updated to to be more regular.
@@enacku 10k miles is max, probably highway usages.
Changing my oil in the car once a year and about 12-18.000km.
Sludge building up is probably from short trips, have seen that in the Fiat/Abarth 1.4T engines ( Europe version ).
I don't know why I would be concerned with what my dealer what Ford says about my oil change intervals? I'm not concerned with what somebody else thinks if what I'm stating is fact
My dealer puts 5000 my stickers Max in people's windows because we know what works
And if you pull out your Ford service manual you'll see that most people try to operate under normal circumstances which and none of us operate under and then you have to switch over to the severe-duty circumstance which is closer to my recommendations except mine are just a little bit better
So if you have any further questions about me being the professional that I am in the recommendations that I make please ask I'll answer them because I'm going to shoot you straight I don't care what anybody else thinks about what I say because I know what freaking works
I only drive 3,000 miles a year, if that, but I live in a rural area surrounded by 55mph roads, few traffic lights. While I trade vehicles every 3 years, I finally get it, and started changing oil at the Ford dealer at least twice a year. One mechanic came out and thanked me, and said I was saving major damage in the near future. He also told me not to trust the tire pressure sensors, but rather manually check the tires monthly with a good gage, and to check under the hood frequently for rodent nests.
THATS funny you mentioned this did my eco boost oil in November, only about 1,300 on it but changing this weekend thanks 😊.
Boss Man, I still can't understand for the life of me why some are pushing this "20,000 mile" OCI. That is just bonkers to me. For some people who only make short trips, that could end up being several years! I understand there are some really expensive "high performance" oils out there so maybe they are trying to justify their high cost, but it's really being penny wise and pound foolish. For people who say they "don't have the money" I say "hogwash". You can purchase a 5 qt jug of Chevron synthetic blend oil for about $17 at Walmart and get a Motorcraft filter for another $4. So that's $21 for a very low budget oil change. If you don't have any money, you can certainly afford $21 to at least do that if nothing else. Sure beats not doing the oil change at all.
yes its not the oil that matters but what gets in the oil.
It really adds up to $18.00 (14 + 4).... :)
@Fran Danco I updated the price, that oil is now $3 more at Walmart. Thanks.
But Scotty says one year 🤣🤣🤣🤣. I’m very paranoid about my oil changes. You’re the only person I let touch my vehicles & you know how clean my engine is. I do my oil every 3k miles or 5 months
In fairness Scotty does say 3000-5000 miles, and a year maximum but it’s not best. He says pretty much the same, oil is cheap, engines are expensive. But he also hates eco boost engines too ;).
follow Scotty. made more sense
My 2020 Ecoboost Mustang with the high performance package I bought in March of 21’ is approaching 7k miles and it’s 3rd oil change. I installed a JLT oil separator as soon as I got the car.
I change oil 6 months max. Even with a few hundred miles. I can see and smell the difference. I always warm up to normal and rev to 2000 or 3000 on short runs. My engines are very clean. I put gas preservative in, and lucas gas clean and they start instantly even at teen temps. I may be silly, but I change filters every time. As a youngin my oil burners would freeze on and crush fram filters. Change often and hand tighten filters 3/4 turn apx. It has always been a successful 300,000 mile plus on my autos.
Looks like a lot of short trips, never getting the engine up to temp to burn off the condensation, sad with only 18,000 miles. Looks like it had 150k hard miles on it.
I've always said oil is cheaper than an engine. Took my recently purchased Camry in and had it changed. They told me I could go 10k. I was at 4k. Told them to change it anyway. These long intervals just don't sit well with me.
Shop I go too know me by name I could do it myself but I live in an apartment and where I park is kinda gravel area so I can’t really do oil changes there. Sometimes I go to my friends garage but the shop knows I want just basic oil and I do 5000 oil intervals. Cars almost 20 years old still driving down the road why’ll most new cars I see on flat bed tow trucks
Yes even my first oil I was told I could push it out to 7k up to 10k but I did it at maybe 2k because to me it is the break in oil and break in was over although not completely. At 96k now and still no oil burning.
I do my Toyota every 5k maybe 7500 when I go on vacation and it's all highway but definitely 10k is too long if you plan to keep it for longer then 75-100k even now I have 4500k on my oil and it's feeling like it needs changed.
Thanks for the video! What do you mean by "such little coolant intrusion it never really affected the oil or anything like that"? How do you figure out that there is a coolant intrusion and what is the connection between coolant intrusion and oil? Does the 1.0L Ecoboost have same problems? Thank you!
You should look in my library at coolant intrusion it affects the 1.5 L the 1.6 L and the 2.0 liter from about 2015 to Mid 2019 and these are EcoBoost engines the 1.0 liter does not have that problem but they issue the 1.0 liter EcoBoost does have is it has a oil pump driven by a belt and that built stretches and it doesn't pump enough oil and sometimes the motor can lock up on the older 1.0 liter EcoBoost so because that belt is lubricated with oil I would not be waiting a long time to change my oil
I change my oil once a year on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost. I'm retired and only drive it 4000 miles per year. When I drive it I make sure to run it for a half hour to get the engine and transmission up to full operating temp. Many of my trips are around 75 miles. I have a beater car for running errands around town.
I'm going to have to disagree. My father's TDI got 10,000 miles and a synthetic oil change when they came due, about twice a year it got changed.
Thing has never had an engine issue, emissions systems not withstanding as the DPF went at 200k miles and was covered under warranty and the EGR valve is now toast.
The high salt diet is what really killed that thing.
Maybe it makes a difference at 300k miles but there isn't a passenger vehicle in existence that can survive that long where I live before the frame is gone and about all the parts have been replaced.
No idea why the mechanics and engineers disagree so much over it oil change intervals, the new oil is light-years better than the stuff from 30 years ago.
There is no disagreeing
There is me educating people and those who don't give a crap what they screw up and keeping doing it out of ignorance
My profession speaks for itself and your ideology doesn't
Tear your engine down and look inside to help refute your claim.
@@chicanobluesaz4191 lol I'm not tearing down a running 350k km diesel for some dude on the internet. Maybe I'll send you a video of it getting an emissions delete.
@@vhateverlie Do it
Yes, its called cooperate greed, they downsized the engines that much, that they are all junk. A normal and proper build engine should not have a problem with an 12 month and 8k interval.
I do 5k in about 3 months. Fresh full synthetic with a premium filter every time without fail. Wife's ride barely does 5k in a year, still gets changed twice a year, always right before summer, then again after summer. We're in Texas, so even cooler weather is unpredictable.
Man I've learned allot from your channel. I'm prior service as well would love to have chance to chat with you. Thank you.
I run three old Fords, 1979-86 drive around 1,000 miles per vehicle per year, and replace the oil on them once a year, every year with premium AmsOil. Probably nearly a decade at this point. I have yet to have a problem with any of my motors and oil issues, and my 79 Continental doesn't even burn oil. The used oil flows well even at cold temperature off the stick, and looks brand new in the dump oil pan flowing hot out on oil changes.
This isn't arguing with you, or giving bad advice to others. Just a simple statement of fact. My old Cleaveland and Windsors seem to be doing fine on the once a year oil change.
I get what you're saying but by you saying what you're saying here that actually can retract from my message to other people so when you say I'm not trying to do this you actually are doing it and I know you don't mean anything by it
The engine in this video is a small, turbo'd gasoline engine. That's what he is mainly addressing. These ecoboosts run hard and hot, they are a lot rougher on oil and components. Totally different animal. If what you're doing works for your vehicles then cool, but for the context of this video it couldn't be less relevant.
I believe these Ford engines are basically a badly-designed engine which causes its own problems
@@krod2162 I believe Mr. Mitchum made a good point, that these motors aren't bad designs, but that they are designs that need much higher maintenance. My old Cleaveland and Windsor V-8's are naturally aspirated, and either port injected or carb'ed, which can run very dirty with less to almost no problems compared to modern direct injection. Keeping any motor clean from carbon is good, but in DI it is crucial.
Turbos are, indeed, hard on oil. All that heat helps to break down the oil much faster compared to cool running naturally aspirated. So, yes, again, it isn't a problem inherent with the Ford EcoBoost, but rather a consideration of all and any turbocharger.
When properly maintained the EcoBoost seems to be a reliable engine that holds up well, showing they aren't a junk motor that is poorly designed. But a touchy motor that needs more care than a big old NA low compression cast iron workhorse.
Sounds like a crap engine design.
When I change my 6.7 powerstroke oil 3-4K it will not be black with soot more like dark honey color I add friction reducer and have a draft tube even the old 7.3 with no emissions had more soot in the oil not sure why
New subscriber
Thanks
I also agree with your what you are saying I have a 2000 tundra I have change the oil every 3000 miles and I use full synthetic 5-30 I have 245,000 on it and it does not even use a quarter of a quart between oil changes I know they say you can go longer with synthetic oil but I just change it every 3000 anyway oils cheap
And it's a Toyota..best of both worlds, engineering and maintenance!
I change my oil twice a year based on temperature. 5W-30 in the hot summer and 0W-30 in the freezing winter. Lighter oil in the winter helps the engine start easily, oil reaches parts of the engine faster, less strain on the oil pump and starter and you get heating faster too!
Should you rely on the oil change service life gauge for a recommended oil change? And if so, at what percent? For the carbon build up on the motor in the video, I wonder if an oil catch can would have made a difference? After all, isn't it a direct injected turbo?
Rely on the gauge if you want it to only last thru powertrain warranty.
Do not rely on the gauge
I dont even trust owner manuals when it comes to oil changes. Some car manuals will say 5,000 mile oil change, 7,000 miles with synthetic. I'm sorry but your just asking for trouble. I dont know what sone of these engineers are thinking when they conclude this stuff.
@@FordBossMe well the pandemic caused a lot of problems. 2007 Ford 500 and went about a year and 4000 miles. Some people say a year is fine... others say every 6 months. I notice a burnt rubber smell from engine after driving .
Great advice....
Corolla Hybrid SE AWD
4 month intervals / Calgary, AB Mobil 1 OW-16 + Toyota Filter
January, February, March, April
May, June, July, August
Sept, Oct, November, December
5,000 kilometers = 3,125 miles ✅
6,000 kilometers = 3,750 miles ✅
7,000 kilometers = 4,375 miles ✅
8,000 kilometers = 5,000 miles ✅
I think another problem is short trips and not letting the oil get hot enough to burn off any moisture the accumulates in the oil
I agree with your oil change intervals. What are your thoughts on a catch can?
Use them
My '01 Chevy conversion van oil gets changed about annually. It gets stored indoors during the winter months and when I do change it, which will be this week, it's still pretty decent from an optics standpoint. Hash marks are still very visible on the dipstick and doesn't burn any with no lifter tick. I'm in upstate NY and my trips included WVA, KY , and FL last year before putting her down for the season. A good oil and filter with driving habits that allow the oil to do its job will allow you to do those o/c intervals
Thanks for the vid! What if you have a vehicle that only gets driven 2-3000 miles per year? Do you think a yearly change is enough with a high quality full synthetic?
i have a 09 focus with 215,000 miles and have always done the oil at 5000 mile interval and the oil would just be starting to darken, I went out and bought a new 21 escape with the dragon 1.5 and it is crazy hard on oil, at 2500 miles its oil is much darker than the oil in the focus with twice the miles and they both are driven the same commuter route.
makes me want to add a oil cooler to it.
Ford Boss Me, after you buy a new car, when should you get the first oil change, assuming you are using full synthetic? I have a 2021 Mazda 3 that I bought this past November. The car now has 2,700 miles. Mazda recommends the first oil change at 9,000 miles. The dealer recommends 5,000 miles. I never had a new car before, but didn't it used to be that your first oil change on a new car should be at 500 or 1,000 miles? I'm curious as to your opinion.
Should be done at 1000 miles so do it as soon as you can
🤞 Hoping my 2-3k oil changes and MMO in my fuel are keeping my 2.0l eco clean. At 196k going to hit 200k in the next few months 🤞🤞 _hopefully._ 🍀🍀
Hey Rich, What do you think about putting a pre-oiling system and/or a bypass block on these vehicles. They'd then have oil immediately available upon start up and an additional filter getting the smallest particles down to a micron out
There is a gentleman on here that just did that.
I'll post a video
@@FordBossMe
Full flow filtering would be beneficial. By-pass filtering is less than ideal.
Looking at the parts, and being turbocharged, and a dinky little engine trying to replace a big horse causes a Hell of a lot of heat to be generated, in a very short time. More heat than maybe is being considered. I'd be taking a good long look at the oil, I'm thinking it's questionable if this particular oil, (by mil-spec or equivalent) is adequate for the application.
I understand DI gas engines have poor injectors. In that the leak. This is contributing to the degradation of the oil.
I'd almost consider using Rotella T despite it seems a bit much, it can deal with the temperatures generated by turbocharged engines, the higher detergent may, or may not be beneficial. I know plenty of people using diesel engine lubricating oil in gas engines with no ill effects.
You're more experienced with these engines, but this does seem worth considering, I think. My thing is hot rod diesel power 14-15 litre.
@@FordBossMe That's an oil "accumulator" I was referring to a remote with a full flow and a bypass on the same block. It refines in a sense down to 1 micron.
1000% agreed with the 3k, 4k, and 5k intervals. i have a 21 silverado that turned a year old this february she just hit 18k and i changed the oil 6 times already using dexos approved shit (cuz gm) with an acdelco pf63 filter preventative maintenance is key
You can use Supertech (Walmart) oil, it has the Dexos1 badge on it.
If it's ok for, GM it's ok for me.
Great video thanks for sharing Boss
Whats your recommend oil change interval for a diesel truck (3 gallon capacity) that gets driven weekly reaches operating temperature every time its driven and between 200-400 miles a month
It's still going to be the same you have to protect your investment
I totally agree with all information given, but what about diesels? If you have any knowledge on the diesel aspect i would greatly appreciate any information given.
Diesels are a little bit more forgiving but if you can do the same thing with them I would
Couldn’t agree more. I change my oil every 3k it’s all highway driving 70+ mph for about 45 minutes. 08 Honda CR-V 210k mikes recently was under the hood and took out the VVT oil control valve filter screen (never been off or cleaned before) and it was completely spotless not one spec of carbon/sludge. I use Napa 520 synthetic oil which I think is made by valvoline
But you have a Honda K24A engine which is renown for extreme durability and longevity. These new small-displacement GDI/turbo engines are a completely different animal.
I had commented on a previous 1.5L
video. I was wondering if you could advise on what the 1.5L situation is like at present in the dealerships, regarding parts availability? My wife’s 2019 is in now P0303. I’m in the north east coast, Her car is driven long distances because she travels for work RI, NH, MA, ME, VT, so it is driven well. We’re really excellent on maintenance too, 3,000 or 3 months on her 1.5 and My 6.2 F250 sees 40K/yr, typical 6 to 8 oil changes per year on my 6.2. Thank for the phenomenal documentation you do.
Parts availability is terrible currently
@@FordBossMe Thank you, I think we’re going to plan for the worst case scenario, a few months without her car. I read the code on my own, didn’t erase it. When I researched online and saw your videos I learned about the issue. The dealer said they couldn’t look or diagnose the car for 2-3 weeks..It’s been there 2 weeks now. It’s a ‘19 26K.
Just got it back, 2 weeks downtime, short block was done. CEL and oil light less than 30 miles driven after picking up. Observed lack of power, rattle upon light throttle, and running poorly, no power to merge onto highway. Currently back at the dealer. Lucky me, wish I could’ve taken it to you.
This is why I write the date and mileage on my filter when I change it so I can keep track of this.
Id be interested in what oil was used..and how many idling hours on this machine, but looks to meone year changes of 3k, and Seafoam added to crankcase 25-50 miles before draining "hot" oil out would be called for
Awesome information. I put on about 50,000 km a year. I usually get about 7 oil changes a year.