DIY ETCS-i delete on 2JZ-GTE VVTI
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- This is a MacGuyver version of a drive by wire delete "kit" when you can't wait for back ordered pre-made pieces. The idea came to me when I attempted to order a pre-made pushrod for the delete and the item is on back order.This mod is reversible and non-destructive to oem equipment, with the exception of a wee hole in the throttle request sensor's cam
UPDATE: I now have driven the Supra with this delete on the factory ecu for approximately 14,000 miles. I still haven't had a single throttling issue
You might have said in the video but is your car and automatic
@@rustedratchetgarage6788 it is a 5 speed , R154
Does that matter? I have an auto and what type problems could I endure if I locked it/bypass on stock ecu?
Recently decided I’d go with a fully manual throttle body setup on my JZ Swap G35 just for simplicity … and this video is quick/easy/cheap … thank you
I left mine stock, it works perfectly .
You are a genius 😮 I will be doing some testing on my is300 with this.
Poor mans diy brings out the creativity.
Yes it does
UPDATE: The little pin I made to attach the screw came loose and made the throttle hard to push. I would suggest a tiny screw for the hole and/ or some jb weld. I wound up welding a little bit of a washer on the throttle cam and so far it's working well enough and smoother than with the bent screw.
Hello, where did you get that oem looking cover?
so you must be from here in Louisiana ! must be close to be Morgan City/ Pierre Part area! so is that from a 2Jz GE ?
Is the ETCS-I on a 1jzgte just as moddable with a piggy back ecu or would it require a complete standalone? I've heard some stuff that has scared me away from buying ETCS-I but the -I seem to be in much better shape for lower cost because a lot of 1jz folks know about the electronic throttle.
I can't say I know for sure, bc I never researched it but I don't know why it would be much different than the 2jz version. I thnk they are more trouble to tune on a standalone ecu and that's likely why they are cheaper. But, I've had the bypass on my engine with stock injectors and ecu for about 3,000 miles and running it hard doesn't seem to have an effect on the air/fuel ratio in a negative way. I'm boosting about 5 psi for now and I see af numbers between 12 and 10:1, so I'm not worried about lean boosting. If anything, the ecu may be going slightly richer to protect the engine since it doesn't see the throttle request sensor or any transmission or speed sensor input. I can rev it as long as my foot is on the pedal. The only problem is idle control. If I pull hard and shut down fast while disengaging the clutch, then the engine will stall. But if I leave it engaged for a couple of seconds on deceleration, then it will idle.Ive got a plan for an idle control system I'm gonna be testing soon though. For what it's worth, I don't have a single regret buying the vvti 2jz engine. It makes mad torque down low for cruising and in my opinion it's plenty fast when I want it to be
wow! great diy!
but how much is the idle rpm and warming-up rpm with that mod?
Without touching the idle screw, it won't idle at all. The dbw system controlled that. So, as a consequence, there is no idle air controller. It also affects idle-down after a hard pull or sudden stops. In a manual transmission car, it's not a big deal, bc you can tap the throttle and keep it going. I imagine with an auto trans it may be a botheration. So, you have to play with the idle screw and get it where it won't stall very easily. I still have air conditioning and power steering, so I set mine at about 1100 rpm when at operating temperature and ac off. When the compressor kicks on it drops to about 800, which still isn't ideal, but without a standalone or some rigged up version of an idle control, it's the best I could do. I also noticed the vvti engine is funny about vacuum leaks. The wideband will show rather lean with a leak at idle, even with a small vacuum leak. So, I'm still brainstorming a solution for using the stock ecu with this mod and not having to worry about idle and stalling
Does it run really rich since it’s not receiving correct signals for the air actually going into the motor? I want to do this but it seems like it would dump fuel since it’s not controlling the throttle blade anymore.
@@brianleonard6879 if I do this work will it make any difference in petrol average and will the censor work
@@brianleonard6879 hi Brian,
My understanding is that these throttle bodies don’t have an idle set screw can you advise the location please
What is the purpose of this mod. Why eliminate the electronic traction control?
I did this mod because I removed a whole lot of sensors from the harness and the computer has this "limp home mode" that activates when too many parameters are just unknown. I removed all the sequential turbo valves and the auto transmission wires to go single turbo and R154 5-speed manual. It seemed like the computer would not advance the throttle more than about 1/3 of the pedal with all these sensors missing. I discovered that the drive-by-wire mechanism has a throttle "request" sensor AND a throttle "position" sensor. The request sensor makes the ECU look at the angle of the throttle you are requesting and the drive by wire motor is controlled by what the computer tells it to do. The upside to this is that the computer was programmed to adjust throttle position with the dbw motor ,regardless of what else is going on. SO, if the throttle position sensor is moved to,say, full throttle, it doesn't matter if the computer agrees that the throttle should be open. It is effectively bypassed when you force the position sensor to a certain position. so, for the last 2 years Ive had all the sensors i dont use removed and absolutely zero input from the transmission and speed sensor. Bypassing like this it seems the computer thinks you are sitting in the driveway in neutral and it will rev all day unless you hit fuel cut. BUT, there is effectively no speed limiter and it runs as wild as you like it. HOWEVER, if you are forcing the hardware like this, you need a wideband to eye the A/F like a hawk. you should immediatley shut down if it looks lean under boost or crazy rich because of a vacuum/boost leak..This fact alone is why there is a disclaimer
They make a mod it’s called a throttle stop
Okay so I just figured out why my throttle plate isn’t opening all the way (hence why I’m getting dusted in my sc300)
after removing the gears from the motor will a check engine light turn on? Also, what problems does this cause that I should be aware of.
You had also mentioned a company that would screw it on, I want more information on where I can get that because I don’t have anything that could make my screw flat so I’d just much rather get the part.
I’m new to all this and I’m learning as I get hands on. Kind regards thank you for this!
I believe Driftmotion out of California sells a delete kit still. At least they did when I made this video, but it was backordered. I'm not sure about the check engine light coming on, I didn't wire the port wires up. But it will affect idle,bc the motor for the throttle is doing the idle control. But there's an adjustment screw you can play with to get it to idle. Also, limp mode is entirely dependent upon the drive by wire function. If there's a problem with fuel or timing, the ecu was setup to jump into limp mode to protect the engine. Without the fail safe in place, it will run hard, even if fueling is lean,which can be catastrophic. So, if you're using a factory ecu with dbw delete, you need to have a wideband controller and Hawkeye the fuck out of it while driving " like you stole it "
@@brianleonard6879 if I remove the gear would that keep my idle smooth with the wire delete?
@@Kawura not by itself. There is an idle screw on top of the throttle body. You'll have to adjust it a little.
Will this work for automatic transmission?
I don't know. I've only done this on mine with a manual transmission. But I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work.
Will this work with a stock Toyota ECU??
Yes
It has been working for me on my stock ECU for 2 years. I did wind up welding a little cam on that little plate. the screw idea didn't work for me in the long run, but the concept is sound if you run a wideband with this setup
Are u running a standalone ecu
I'm running the stock computer for now. Until I get funded for a standalone, I'm using a wideband gauge and fuel pressure gauge in combination to mess with fuel pressure using a rate-of-rise adjustable regulator. It's not perfect but it'll keep things good enough not to smoke pistons until I get a standalone. I'm leaning towards an emu black at this point.
@@brianleonard6879 same here ecu black because my 2jzgte vvti wont rev past 3k rpm so iam just over it hate to spend that type of money right now but i need my car running and iam getting a new wire specialties harness too
@@diamoniquesmith9301 do you have the mass air flow sensor in place? Mine wouldn't even stay running longer than a couple of seconds without it, but I've heard some people say their vvti engines will run but won't rev higher than 3k without it
@@brianleonard6879 when i hook up my maf the car shut off and when i uplug the map nothing happened it stays running with both of them uplug so idk iam over it
@@diamoniquesmith9301 what about the drive by wire ,is that still hooked up, or do you have it deleted? Also, are the factory twins still on it? I'm curious bc both seem to have something to do with that issue. I have a single turbo and alot of wiring removed,like all the vsv stuff and auto trans wiring. Most everyone I've talked to that can get the engine to stay running without the maf still have the twins and wiring intact.I've heard the stock ecu has some fail safe algorithms built in that will put the dbw into limp home mode if it doesn't see everything correctly. These vvti engines particularly have difficulty if there are any air leaks or weird signals coming from map or maf. If you did the dbw delete, then that's strange that it won't rev up also
Drift Motion sell a part for that mod.
Yes, I'm aware of that. I have since opted for a more permanent solution. I welded a washer to the plate that I had the screw pinned to and it's alot smoother now that before. I guess I really made this video to demonstrate that there are options for doing this mod other than buying somebody else's solution.
@Led4YorHed Update on your engine? Have you figured it out? I see a deal for a 1jz etc ai but worried about putting it into a S14 cause I’m pretty much new at this still.
@Led4YorHed Thanks for the info! Much appreciated. I don’t think I’m experienced enough to work with that yet so I’ll have to be patient & wait for a etcs for sell. 🙃
@Led4YorHed Im not sure what symptoms a bad maf will exhibit, but I can tell you that without it plugged in the engine will start but it won't stay running. Some others have said their vvti's will run without it. Probably because they don't have so many sensors removed like on this particular swap. But I could be wrong about that. I hear many different stories about this issue and it doesn't seem consistent. I only know what I have observed doing all of this.
Will this work on the stock ecu??
Up to this point, I've only heard that it will. I've got about 5 more wires to sort out and rig up the fuel pump and she will be on the road. I will post an update on this either way. I'm thinking it will work bc, if the dbw control was the only thing that the computer was looking at, then there wouldn't be 2 throttle position sensors. When the stepper motor isnt engaged, the throttle will only open a little bit .I believe that the fail safe algorithms are built in to the drive by wire function and with the throttle request sensor, not the actual throttle position sensor. But I will know for sure hopefully not too long from now
OK thanks for the info sold my gs300 because of this problem then got a jzx100 1jz swap in to a Altezza now thinking to go back to the 2j
@@gibronjamaludin3683 I got it to fire up today and I have to keep it going bc it won't idle on it's own. But this weekend I'm gonna play with the set screw on the throttle body so that it will idle. It didn't seem to want to rev past about 2500 rpm at first. On a hunch I unplugged the ects-i plug since it isn't controlling anything anymore and now it'll rev up fine. I can't wait to get this beast out on the roadway. Been a long time coming!
OK that's nice this is some great info keep up the good work
@@brianleonard6879 did you get the 2jz tot idle fine after you did the throttle delete and what is the rev limited now?