Just a small correction. By chirp it is not 100 pings each at a different frequency it is each ping starts off at a low frequency and ends at a high frequency. This allows a long pulse that can go deep and you do not loose any range resolution or the ability to detect different objects close together. This is because each target is hit at a slightly different frequency and when the signal returns the system does a frequency match filter and is able to determine 1 target from the other. Also the cone size (beam angle) does not change that drastically between 100kHz and 200kHz. I work in sonar development and this is what I help develop. Other than that the ability to detect targets is correct.
Thanks brother! It’s technically a wide frequency range between 150khz and 250khz. (Not just 100 since they don’t come in nice neat 1khz chunks) I had such a hard time explaining the difference over the years that I found this gave guys a good “idea”. Instead of one you get many. Thanks for the comment brother!
Try CHIRP first. If it has medium and high medium will likely have the wider cone so it’s better for marking fish. Every transducer model has characteristics that can be quite different than others so you will have to experiment with it a little. I would toggle between medium CHIRP and 83khz. Go back and forth at different depths paying close attention when you’re fighting under the boat. Note how the fish looks on the screen and the fish’s size when you land it. One of those two settings will outperform the other. I would probably stay with those two for your depths 👍👍👍
Mike, I am very thankful for all these instructional videos. I have been watching your videos all winter and yesterday I took my boat out for the first time since ice out here in Indiana. I was able to set up my sonar much more efficiently and WOW I could see so much more. It was great to be able to actually see and understand what I was seeing especially on my side scan. Thank you brother!
PLEASE SUBSCRIBE! IT’S VERY FREE! 😁 I tried to make this video as simple as possible. Technically you can read pages and pages of what is really happening with CHIRP sonar. In this case, It’s technically a wide frequency range between 150khz and 250khz. (Not just 100 since they don’t come in nice neat 1khz chunks) I had such a hard time explaining the difference over the years that I found this gave guys a good “idea”. Instead of one -you get many. Thanks for watching!
I tried to make this video as simple as possible. Technically you can read pages and pages of what is really happening with CHIRP sonar. In this case, It’s technically a wide frequency range between 150khz and 250khz. (Not just 100 since they don’t come in nice neat 1khz chunks) I had such a hard time explaining the difference over the years that I found this gave guys a good “idea”. Instead of one, you get many. Thanks for watching!
i rarely comment on youtube, but man THANK YOU! been using a Lowerance hook4 for a year and it had me confused all this time. Played lots with the settings and it never was consistent. now thanks to your videos on here I finally understand! thank you again Mike!
Excellent tutorial. Please edit your audio with headphones. Your voice volume is considerably lower than the extra audio you add in Painful when wearing earphones.
I was just going to comment the same thing but thought I'd look and see if anyone else had already done so. There has got to be some automatic volume compensation that can be added to bring up the low volume and reduce the high so as to normalize it. Don't take it too hard, MANY you tube channels have this issue. The video editing is usually very good but the audio needs work. That said, I am really enjoying your videos, keep it up!
This is the best explanation of how the frequencies work on TH-cam mate well done. I'm going to give it a go and I might have a few questions if that's okay
From your video I have a pretty good understanding of what my fish finder should look like but how do I set it up like that. I fish in our harbour between 3 to 8m mark is there any advice you can give me on the level of chirp and ping speed I'm always anchored when I fish. I have a lowrance elite 4 chirp.
@@craigedkins You can email me mikesmedley9@gmail.com. At your depths you want the widest sonar cones possible. That’s medium CHIRP on your machine. Side scan will help you tremendously in shallow water like that.
Great video and appreciate the time you put into the flip chart explaining the frequencies and CHIRP! I'll tinker with my Helix 5 CHIRP G2 GPS some more but so far I think it is a POS. It was advertised/implied had DI and SI but after spending a day installing the transducer line and getting everything hooked up then into the water I found it does not have DI or SI which really sucks. Its too much trouble to take the boat back out, remove the transducer cabling and send it back. Humminbird bundles there manuals and specs together making it disillusioning as to which unit does what. So far the Helix 5 G2 GPS SUCKS
Mike, you did a better explanation than the one I saw on (Kid Cochise?). It was your conical diagrams that did it. I might suggest that when you show chirp you draw multiple different color cones, each different color representing a different frequency covering different areas. Thanks for this though, Great video!
Thanks brother!! I really appreciate the feedback!! I actually did a video several years back using exactly what you’re talking about and it seemed to confuse things further for a few guys. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️. I tried to keep this one as simple as possible with just the basics. Technically you get even more frequencies than the 100 since pulse frequencies can be any frequency within that range of 150-250khz. For example you maybe sending 150.1 150.2 150.3khz and even smaller. I tried to keep it all about the COMPARISON between fixed frequency transducers and CHIRP transducers that use swept frequencies. I think I will do another one soon for the more advanced fishermen and I’ll use your recommendation. Please let me know if there is anything specific you would like to see in a video. Any video about sonar or fishing in general. Thanks again brother!!
Nice explanation. It’s tough to justify the expense of a good transducer especially when the “techs” say there isn’t much difference. Looking forward to rigging up both on our demo boat to be able to show customers the difference side by side like this!
Thanks brother!!! I think your customers will REALLY appreciate that. I get hundreds of email from frustrated boat owners that would have happily spent the extra money if they were aware of the difference in performance. Thanks for the comment!
On your recommendation on the previous video probably doing the High Wide TM165 I believe vs 83/200 skimmer and possibly the TM120 vs the Active Imaging. Running off 2 HDS live units. What issues do you get with interference while viewing one vs the other? Is that the vertical lines I see sometimes on one unit vs the other?
Performance Marine AZ I do a lot of testing for Airmar and Simrad so I have used them all. I have had wonderful results when testing Airmar CHIRP transducers against each other with little to NO interference at all, even with noise filters turned OFF. The ONLY time I see substantial noise is when a NON-CHRIP, “fixed frequency” transducer is in the mix like the P66. I have several transducer comparison videos on my channel and you will notice how incredibly clean the images are when running even 3 transducers at once as long as they are all CHIRP transducers. I have tested all of the following in every combination, sometimes running 3 at a time with great results: B175HW -B175M-B275LHW -TM275 LHW TM265LH-TM150M- TM165- TM185LH But if I throw a traditional transducer in the mix I get noise on similar frequencies. The Airmar CHIRP Transducers all have very low Q ratings unlike the traditional transducers.
The best way to find out what is being transmitted is to put some test equipment on it, an oscilloscope and maybe a spectrum analyzer to start. If you were near me we could do that with your fishfinder and my test equipment. We just need to get on the signal cable and see what we see.
Awesome video brother u explained exactly what no one knows lol.Why they dont explain this at booth's and in depth in the owner's manual.I couldn't tell ya but that's best explanation I have seen.Your da man.Also don't get why lowerance doesn't come with a decent transducer u get a basic transducer with a 5000 dollar unit makes no sense.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS well.u give a better seminar in one video than any booth guy out there and I know u would think they put a high dollar unit out they would put a decent transducer with it I think I got the same transducer on my carbon as a cheap unit 200/83 Pretty sure that exact same transducer that comes standard on the cheapest version correct?
David Farley You are probably right about the transducer. It seems that they either pair it with no transducer at all, like the high end Simrad’s or they pair it with an entry level transducer. If they put a $1000 Transducer in the box most guys will buy some other brand thinking they just saved $1000 bucks. I think they should put packages together. Maybe a BRONZE, SILVER and GOLD at the very least. Great question brother
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS I hope someone reads this and understands where I'm coming from maybe u can do a video explaining that also.Because I guarantee probably 90 percent of the guys buying these expensive unit doesn't realize they getting a basic transducer to there high dollar unit where if they where to go with a Tm 150 let's say from Airmar thet would get so much more out of it.Its kinda like buying a Dodge viper with a 4 cylinder engine in it 🤣🤣😂.Same engine they put in a neon ya know.Hopefully this info gets out
Another way to explain frequency is the size of brush your using to paint a picture of what's under your boat. High Frequency small brush bounces off the first thing it sees, low frequency bigger brush bounces off the first thing it sees. Your cone diagram shows perfect example. but the display will only show 1 fish regardless to how many fish are in the cone.
In general, the TI units are faster in response to inputs. This is seen when quickly switching between sonar, downscan, chart, and split screens th-cam.com/users/postUgkxeAxH15LxhjGlg5-CRYqjTGTEH0tbY4vk recommend The Hook units will show some lag on button pushes and screen switching. The big ticket item though is maps. If you install a mapping card such as Navionics or the free C-Map Genesis which has a lot of map detail, then moving around the map with the cursor or when running down the lake can lag significantly on the Hook units, but is seamless with the TI units.
Thanks brother! This one can get crazy technical. I speak to some of the guys that work to design this stuff and it’s absolutely exhausting to just listen to them. They don’t have much time to fish.😉😉😉
Yes , thanks for taking the time to do these videos, and me as well, learning a lot as we go, so thanks again....cept..the intro with earbuds bends my brain, way louder than vid volume, I cannot pull ear phones out fast enough, (sorry, that's my only complaint )
Mega plus is just For side scan when set to 1000lhz for the highest resolution. You lose a little range so 800khz is better in open deep water. In less than 30ft use mega plus. For 2D sonar use medium CHIRP all the time.
Mike, getting ready to put the TM275LH-W with CP570 on my cousins 3100SXL Northriver and would love to pick your brain on settings. We are running Axiom 12’s front and back and do all kinds of fishing from shallower Salmon to deep water Halibut in 800 feet of water to albacore offshore trolling and live bait and jigging. Never have had a really consistant picture. Love my Lowrances for the ease of use.
That’s the perfect transducer for you. Salmon and Halibut both can be hard to Mark without air bladders. I would probably leave it in CHIRP settings all the time since I mark airless fish best in those settings. I’m not familiar with Axiom but if you can run both high and low simultaneously it can be a great way to learn the ins and outs of the 275 quickly. Email me if you have any questions. I might be able to help. I would love to see screenshots of halibut on the bottom too. I mark flounder on the bottom all the time. Mikesmedley9@gmail.com
That is the beauty of the CP570, it can run 2 Chirp signals simultaneously with each independant signal showing on split screen for instant comparison.
We can run 2 at once with the Simrad’s as well. Check to make sure it can run a pair of 1Kw transducers at once. Some are limited to 600 watts. The transducers will have 2 plug ends on it as well. I’m not familiar with the Axiom. Make sure it has 2 transducer inputs. Some brands require a separate processor.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS CP570 is the same as Simrad S5100. Runs to Chirp Channels at 2kw each. Have all Carbons on my boat, but don’t have transducers to optimize. My cousins boat will be loaded with newest Raymarine Chirp system available for the Axiom series.
Great video. Thanks. Wondering when the Low Medium and High is best. Ideally I'd like to setup for trolling stripper inshore and fishing around structures. I'd also like to setup for Inshore Tuna and an occassional canyon run.
Awesome video Mike, just one advice . On the beginning of you video where you show single frequency cones 200hz is wider than 83hz and much wider than 50hz.
I’m not sure I understand what you’re saying here. Maybe I’m misreading it. For clarification the 200khz frequency is the narrowest cone and 50khz is the widest. Check any Airmar web page. Even though 50 is the widest it is still the best for deep water (this is where a lot of confusion comes in because people tend to compare it to a shotgun choked pattern). It’s a common mistake actually.
www.airmar.com/uploads/brochures/AIRMAR%20Transducer%20Guide%202009.pdf Check out the image on page 3. Search “Guide to transducer technology- Airmar” . If the link doesn’t work. Thanks brother.
Hi Mike, another great video. Many great tips in there. I currently run a 3D transducer for side & down & a P66 for standard sonar. I really want to upgrade for my birthday this year, with the option of compatibility to chirp readiness. I mainly fish in shallow estuaries, rivers & when the opportunity arises offshore, chasing reef fish & pelagics over reef structures. I wouldn’t fish deeper than 100-150m (700ft). I’ve have a 5m boat if that makes a difference. I’ve been looking at TM 185 LM/LH, TM258, TM260 & TM265LM/LH options. Any tips, advice or recommendations would be amazing, thanks mate😃👍🏼 tight lines.
Any of those would be great but you might want to consider the new Airmar tm165 extra wide high CHIRP. it’s incredible for the depths you fish and won’t require a stronger CHIRP processor.
Mike Smedley Great info mate, thanks. I will look over the TM165. Just for my understanding, where you say a stronger chirp processor, is that in the head unit?? Thanks again mate.
Hi Mike! Nice vid like always! Very well explained 👌👌 Wich transducer are you running on the real chirp? I own an Airmar TM275LH and I'm really really happy. Before this one I had the totalscan 3 in 1. Like you, I think that the sides an is worth the money, but in traditional sonar, the airmar is thousand times better than the totalscan. Thanks for all the great videos! Waiting for the next one. Best regards from Spain bro
Thanks brother!! You have a MONSTER of a Transducer in the 275 LH!! I have used all of the 1KW Airmar CHIRP Transducers over the years. We removed the 275 for 2 175’s. I don’t use low CHIRP because I rarely fish deep enough to need it. Right now I have a B175 H wide (which has the same HIGH BAND as the 275) and a B175 Medium CHIRP for slightly deeper water. I’ve been testing the TM165 High Wide as well. 👍👍 Thanks for your continued support brother!!!
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS Thanks for the fast answer! Yes, I have the big one! 🤪 I really use the low frequency, I fish from 0 to 200meters and I'm trying to go deeper to the 300m, will see... Keep going like always! 💪🏻💪🏻 Best regards!
Seems like the one transducer needs adjusted. Regardless the chirp is better but the returns on the left could be improved by adjusting the transducer and also adjusting the settings on the head unit. Again chirp is still going to be better immage
No sir. Low is the widest cone. It’s best for deeper water because of frequency and not because of the cone width. A narrower cone does not travel further, although that’s a common mistake.
According to Airmar, Low has 25 and 16 degrees on the low side and constant 25 on high side, 16 degree penetrates up to 3000 fow where 25 shuts off much shallower. At least on the TM275 LH-W that is what shows on the website.
Higher frequencies rarely travel effectively past 600’. I have that transducer and several others on my boat right now as I am a tester/beta user for Airmar. This link will help clarify what’s goin on. Scroll down to Page 3, it has the details, second paragraph is excellent. Higher frequencies travel quicker and are emitted more frequently yet much shorter so they are good for shallower water and greater detail. It’s actually a very common misconception that narrow cones travel further, it SEEMS like that is how it should be, but it’s not like a shotgun choke. Thanks for the comment brother. www.airmar.com/uploads/brochures/AIRMAR%20Transducer%20Guide%202009.pdf The HIgh wide models can be confusing as Airmar has engineered that unit to send a wide cone of 25 degrees in the high frequencies. The reason it “shuts off” is because of the frequency and not the cone size
beautiful video, I wanted to ask you for advice, as regards trolling snapper on seabeds that in my part range from 40 to 90 meters on which frequencies should I stay low, medium or high?
Definitely Medium. Cones are wide to mark more fish, yet it’s not SO wide that you lose bottom detail and miss fish altogether that are sitting in bottom pockets. 👍
Very good explanation of chirp. Your voice audio was extremely low had volume on high wearing head phones to hear you speak and then got blasted with whatever that was added to your video, I subscribed to your channel but highly request you either wear a microphone and review your videos wearing headphones to avoid your listeners getting blasted to the point it was a little painful. Thank You for taking the time to explain chirp sonar, just please correct the audio for your listeners.....
Hey Mike. Hope things are going well for you. When you look at transducers like the Active Imaging 3-n-1 now. Which probably wasn't available back when you first made this video. How do they compare to the dedicated Chirp transducers like you were mentioning in this video?
The side scan in them is incredible. That’s actually what I use them for. The CHIRP is ok, certainly better than any traditional transducer I’ve ever used, and a lot better than other brand displays I’ve seen,but they aren’t as good as a b175 or other high end CHIRP transducer.
Thanks so much for the info! I use Garmon on my boat and recently went out to 1800’ of water and my units quit working in 600’. I want to be able to fish in those waters and fish in 70’ what in your opinion would be my best option? Thanks for your help.
Hi are You able to translate your settings and show what settings your using on the sounder eg auto , low , medium or how on the menus 😎thanks I liked the 4 minute video 😎😎😎
I got you brother!! This is ALL of my sonar for dummies lessons in one place. At the 58:00 mark it starts with my settings for 2 d sonar and side scan. Thanks for the support brother! th-cam.com/video/ADn8MHuYVk0/w-d-xo.html
Mike, do you know what is the difference between B265LM and B265CLM? and we do a lot of bottom fishing, do you recommend the B265LM or B275LHW. btw i am using RAYMARINE PRO 9 RVX
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I bought a used boat with an Elite7 Ti with what appears to be the active imaging transduce with side scan. From previous comments, it seems that you are saying that this is "real" CHIRP. correct? I also have a Hook2 7 with the Triple Shot transducer and the unit lists CHIRP as an option...I think in the frequency tab. Is this "real" CHIRP or not?
Hey brother!! Unfortunately I’m not terribly familiar with the Lowrance side. It’s seems some people found some discrepancies in the Lowrance literature. I would check the message boards on The Hull Truth. They have consistent posts on that exact subject.
Hey Mike awesome video thank you.. questions I have is I am upgrading to a garmin with the HD technology.. which transducer would we need for the chirp ? Most units including my current lowrance says it’s all in one and we do not need to purchase a separate one. If we chose to do so and upgrade performance,I cannot find a transducer thatspecifies it’s better for the chirp settings. Thanks for your time
It probably comes with an “all in 1” type transducer. The CHIRP with those are not the best. Any of the Airmar CHIRP transducers will be a huge step up. This is the least expensive and probably a HUGE improvement over the included transducer amzn.to/2BsVMud
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS awesome thank you. So what I get from that is that airmar makes a transducer with capability to connect to a garmin unit or lowrance unit? The plug-in will be comparable?
The short answer is yes, there is a strong chance that Airmar makes Garmin’s transducers. Airmar makes transducers for most brand displays. However they don’t offer all in 1 transducers with side and down scan. If your Garmin has 2 transducer ports you can add an Airmar CHIRP transducer, but if you replace the all in 1 altogether you will lose side and down scan.
Using Lowrance HDS Gen 3 units, looking at upgrading ducers. With current 83/200 skimmer, I have never saw chirp improvement. Now I know why...great video. The ACTIVE IMAGING 3 in 1 Transducer, does not appear to be compatible with Gen 3. Will the TotalScan skimmer work for Chirp or is there a better product? I fish for Striper in east Tn. on lakes up to 100'.
The least expensive CHIRP transducer that will knock your socks off will be the TM150M CHIRP. It’s been a great transducer for me over the years. TM 150 M amzn.to/2BsVMud Because the Gen 3 is a bit older you will need this adapter amzn.to/2XEdTH3. Great transducer for those depths. The TM165 is a step up from the 150, but it’s around $150 more than the 150. You will be very happy with either. 👍👍
Your technical description of chirp is wrong. 150KHz to 250KHz is the range. Short of having the detailed operational description from the manufacturer (proprietary information), the transducer could be using anything from two to an infinite number of frequencies between 150KHz and 250KHZ. Saying that there are 100 frequencies is like saying there are only 12 measurements that can be performed with a 12-inch ruler. The reality is probably more like the transducer outputs pulses that sweep between 150KHz and 250KHz with every pulse being a slightly different frequency. Yes this is a better technology but it is not using 100 different frequencies. Understand that 150KHz is a different frequency than 150.1 or, 150.12 or 150.04. The spec of 150KHz to 250KHz is simply the range of frequency employed and how they employ that range is generally not made clear in an owner’s manual. Its probably anything from 5 different frequencies to 25 from one end of the range to the other.
The P66 is not a CHIRP transducer. You won’t see any improvement at all. These are 2 CHIRP transducers that are great in different price ranges. I’ve used both. TM 150 M Transducer amzn.to/2BsVMud TM 185 High CHIRP Wide with Xsonic plug end (Evo3) amzn.to/2XDLJw7
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks Mike for the links, and I understand the P66 is not a Chirp, and want to know if the chirp are good in our waters? Was told the chirp were only good for clear water?
@@garylajeunesse1428 CHIRP was designed in the salt for the deepest waters. Lowrance/Simrad was the first to design CHIRP for the sport fisherman. Before that it was super expensive and used commercially off shore. 👍👍
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks again Mike, and appreciate your response and videos, great information. Had a talk with Wayne at Navico who is very familiar with our area and has recommended the TM275 LH as a good fit. P66 is the most popular used transducer here, but I’m liking what I see from Chirp and figure it can’t hurt to have both. ✌🏻
Use the lowest frequency your transducer offers. Lower frequency transducers usually have the widest cones, which are best for locating fish in freshwater since the depths are relatively shallow. If you have CHIRP use medium. 👍
What transducer are you using for high chirp on the right-side unit? You said the left unit was a P66. My understanding is the Tm 150 is for medium chirp. Is Medium or High chirp best for 40 ft or less? Low Chirp is the best for deep water, so high? Thanks
In this video it was the tm275 L/High Wide on the right. I personally like single frequencies in water less than 30-40 feet. You’re correct, High CHIRP is best for shallower water. Low CHIRP is really designed for super deep water. Way deeper than we would see in freshwater.
Interesting! I guess you’re meaning target separation, swim bladders comparison and seeing fish arches within bait balls at 40ft or less is the best it’s going to get with single frequency vs multi frequency according to your transducer comparison studies? If so then that’s the reason Lowrance only offers the cheaper 83/200 or 50/200 considering Lowrance caters more towards freshwater then Simrad. I was considering getting a TM150 Medium chirp not so sure it would help now! (High chirps transducers are nice but considerably higher priced. I couldn’t justify the extra cost vs performance in shallow freshwater) Thanks
Mark Peters Your train of thought is dead-on HOWEVER!!😁. Airmar CHIRP Transducers have very low Q RATINGS. Which means when EVEN SETTING IT ONLY TO A SINGLE FREQUENCY, it will blow a traditional transducer OUT OF THE WATER. There are a few misconceptions about CHIRP Transducers, 1 is what we were just talking about above, CHIRP IS ONLY GOOD FOR DEEP WATER SO DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY FOR FRESHWATER USE IN SHALLOWER WATER. While I tend to agree that using the CHIRP BANDWIDTH in only 30 feet of water won’t give you better performance than a single frequency, using a CHIRP Transducer will ALWAYS outperform a fixed frequency transducer in ANY situation. Short answer??? YES, get that tm150 😁😁. You will be amazed. TM 150 M amzn.to/2BsVMud
Im running a lowrance carbon 12 inch w 3d and a 83/200 ducer. Primarily muskie fishing 10 to 50 ft where the the shad are schooled up. Vertical jigging is my main stay. Would you recommend the tm150 or the new tm165hw? I was told the 165 would give me a wider cone but still retain the target seperation. Is this true? Great video btw.
It’s true, the higher frequencies make it behave more like a standard 200khz transducer so you get fantastic detail as well. It’s VERY hard to find a better transducer for under $500. If you fish less than a few hundred feet of water it’s the best you will find, by ALOT 😁. Thanks for the comment brother!!
Leslie Thibodaux definitely the Active Imaging 3 in 1. The side scan is amazing. You get high and Medium chirp as well. Here ya go! ACTIVE IMAGING 3 in 1 Transducer amzn.to/2ErP9ug
How do I see all your fish finder videos, I like the way you teach..im new to them, and I have the lowrance 5x pr,and 4x dsi on dads old fishin boat I know nothing..
Hi Mike thanks for all the amazing info. I am adding the active imaging to my transom. I currently have a thru-hull b-60 on my sportsman 207 masters would you leave the b-60 or do you recommend another thru-hull to compliment the active imaging 3-1? At the moment I bay fish mostly so 15-50 ft of water but plan on going a little offshore probably 50-200 ft. This is the first time I have had a boat rigged up with thru-hull to get sonar on plane how do you recommend getting use to marking fish going 15-20 knots?
The B60 is pretty old technology. I would definitely upgrade to a CHIRP transducer. Your display has CHIRP processors so you should take full advantage to open that machine up if it’s in your budget. The Active Imaging is excellent for side and down scan, but this thru hull : amzn.to/2VhdytA is a BAAAAAD UNIT. It has the widest cone of any thru-hull and is excellent for those depths. You will be able to mark fish and bait over 30 mph.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS Thanks again I was going to go ahead and buy this. My boat is a 15 degree deadrise. Do I still want to get this tilt or another product?
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS Sweet man thanks again can't wait to put this on the simrad and mark some fatties on the coast. Do I need any adapters to hook up to the simrad or should I be all good? Thanks again and tight lines.
Just a small correction. By chirp it is not 100 pings each at a different frequency it is each ping starts off at a low frequency and ends at a high frequency. This allows a long pulse that can go deep and you do not loose any range resolution or the ability to detect different objects close together. This is because each target is hit at a slightly different frequency and when the signal returns the system does a frequency match filter and is able to determine 1 target from the other. Also the cone size (beam angle) does not change that drastically between 100kHz and 200kHz. I work in sonar development and this is what I help develop. Other than that the ability to detect targets is correct.
Thanks brother! It’s technically a wide frequency range between 150khz and 250khz. (Not just 100 since they don’t come in nice neat 1khz chunks) I had such a hard time explaining the difference over the years that I found this gave guys a good “idea”. Instead of one you get many. Thanks for the comment brother!
With a Lowrance hds live what is best for water between 10 and 100 ft deep salt ? Has chirp and or conventional
Try CHIRP first. If it has medium and high medium will likely have the wider cone so it’s better for marking fish. Every transducer model has characteristics that can be quite different than others so you will have to experiment with it a little. I would toggle between medium CHIRP and 83khz. Go back and forth at different depths paying close attention when you’re fighting under the boat. Note how the fish looks on the screen and the fish’s size when you land it. One of those two settings will outperform the other. I would probably stay with those two for your depths 👍👍👍
Mike, I am very thankful for all these instructional videos. I have been watching your videos all winter and yesterday I took my boat out for the first time since ice out here in Indiana. I was able to set up my sonar much more efficiently and WOW I could see so much more. It was great to be able to actually see and understand what I was seeing especially on my side scan. Thank you brother!
That’s awesome brother!!! I love hearing that!! Thanks!!
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IT’S VERY FREE! 😁
I tried to make this video as simple as possible. Technically you can read pages and pages of what is really happening with CHIRP sonar. In this case, It’s technically a wide frequency range between 150khz and 250khz. (Not just 100 since they don’t come in nice neat 1khz chunks) I had such a hard time explaining the difference over the years that I found this gave guys a good “idea”. Instead of one -you get many. Thanks for watching!
I tried to make this video as simple as possible. Technically you can read pages and pages of what is really happening with CHIRP sonar. In this case, It’s technically a wide frequency range between 150khz and 250khz. (Not just 100 since they don’t come in nice neat 1khz chunks) I had such a hard time explaining the difference over the years that I found this gave guys a good “idea”. Instead of one, you get many. Thanks for watching!
One of the best CHIRP vs non-CHIRP comparisons I've seen. Nice job !
i rarely comment on youtube, but man THANK YOU! been using a Lowerance hook4 for a year and it had me confused all this time. Played lots with the settings and it never was consistent. now thanks to your videos on here I finally understand! thank you again Mike!
That’s awesome brother!!! I really appreciate that 👍👍👍👍👍😁😁😁thanks!
*I used it, I was amazed, **enjoyable.fishing** recommend The color screen really lights up. For such a small unit it is very easy to read.*
Excellent tutorial.
Please edit your audio with headphones.
Your voice volume is considerably lower than the extra audio you add in
Painful when wearing earphones.
Will do. Thanks brother!
I was just going to comment the same thing but thought I'd look and see if anyone else had already done so. There has got to be some automatic volume compensation that can be added to bring up the low volume and reduce the high so as to normalize it. Don't take it too hard, MANY you tube channels have this issue. The video editing is usually very good but the audio needs work.
That said, I am really enjoying your videos, keep it up!
I think I have it fixed with the latest group of videos.
This is the best explanation of how the frequencies work on TH-cam mate well done. I'm going to give it a go and I might have a few questions if that's okay
Awesome!! Of course brother. Shoot whenever you need too
From your video I have a pretty good understanding of what my fish finder should look like but how do I set it up like that. I fish in our harbour between 3 to 8m mark is there any advice you can give me on the level of chirp and ping speed I'm always anchored when I fish. I have a lowrance elite 4 chirp.
Do you have WhatsApp or line I can message you on mate
@@craigedkins You can email me mikesmedley9@gmail.com. At your depths you want the widest sonar cones possible. That’s medium CHIRP on your machine. Side scan will help you tremendously in shallow water like that.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS awesome thanks mate. Should I have it on auto sensitivity. Mine doesn't have side scan unfortunately
Great video and appreciate the time you put into the flip chart explaining the frequencies and CHIRP!
I'll tinker with my Helix 5 CHIRP G2 GPS some more but so far I think it is a POS. It was advertised/implied had DI and SI but after spending a day installing the transducer line and getting everything hooked up then into the water I found it does not have DI or SI which really sucks. Its too much trouble to take the boat back out, remove the transducer cabling and send it back. Humminbird bundles there manuals and specs together making it disillusioning as to which unit does what.
So far the Helix 5 G2 GPS SUCKS
I’m glad you like it brother thanks!! Yeah that’s stinks about that transducer.
NIce job Mike. Need to get a mic! Keep up the good work.
I know it!! Thanks brother!!
Excellent again. Now I have a good idea of what folks are CHIRPing about.
ballhawk387 very nice. I see what you did there 😉😁
Mike, you did a better explanation than the one I saw on (Kid Cochise?). It was your conical diagrams that did it. I might suggest that when you show chirp you draw multiple different color cones, each different color representing a different frequency covering different areas. Thanks for this though, Great video!
Thanks brother!! I really appreciate the feedback!! I actually did a video several years back using exactly what you’re talking about and it seemed to confuse things further for a few guys. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️. I tried to keep this one as simple as possible with just the basics. Technically you get even more frequencies than the 100 since pulse frequencies can be any frequency within that range of 150-250khz. For example you maybe sending 150.1 150.2 150.3khz and even smaller. I tried to keep it all about the COMPARISON between fixed frequency transducers and CHIRP transducers that use swept frequencies.
I think I will do another one soon for the more advanced fishermen and I’ll use your recommendation. Please let me know if there is anything specific you would like to see in a video. Any video about sonar or fishing in general. Thanks again brother!!
Nice explanation. It’s tough to justify the expense of a good transducer especially when the “techs” say there isn’t much difference. Looking forward to rigging up both on our demo boat to be able to show customers the difference side by side like this!
Thanks brother!!! I think your customers will REALLY appreciate that. I get hundreds of email from frustrated boat owners that would have happily spent the extra money if they were aware of the difference in performance. Thanks for the comment!
On your recommendation on the previous video probably doing the High Wide TM165 I believe vs 83/200 skimmer and possibly the TM120 vs the Active Imaging. Running off 2 HDS live units. What issues do you get with interference while viewing one vs the other? Is that the vertical lines I see sometimes on one unit vs the other?
Performance Marine AZ I do a lot of testing for Airmar and Simrad so I have used them all. I have had wonderful results when testing Airmar CHIRP transducers against each other with little to NO interference at all, even with noise filters turned OFF. The ONLY time I see substantial noise is when a NON-CHRIP, “fixed frequency” transducer is in the mix like the P66. I have several transducer comparison videos on my channel and you will notice how incredibly clean the images are when running even 3 transducers at once as long as they are all CHIRP transducers. I have tested all of the following in every combination, sometimes running 3 at a time with great results: B175HW -B175M-B275LHW -TM275 LHW TM265LH-TM150M- TM165- TM185LH But if I throw a traditional transducer in the mix I get noise on similar frequencies. The Airmar CHIRP Transducers all have very low Q ratings unlike the traditional transducers.
Awesome man, thanks for the input and keep up the videos and education!
Performance Marine AZ Thanks Brother!!! Anytime!! Let me know if there are any videos you would like to see!
The best way to find out what is being transmitted is to put some test equipment on it, an oscilloscope and maybe a spectrum analyzer to start. If you were near me we could do that with your fishfinder and my test equipment. We just need to get on the signal cable and see what we see.
Sounds like something the weekend warrior might do, lol
I'm new to this,...and I understood every word you said!
🙏🙏🙏🙏👍😁
Awesome video brother u explained exactly what no one knows lol.Why they dont explain this at booth's and in depth in the owner's manual.I couldn't tell ya but that's best explanation I have seen.Your da man.Also don't get why lowerance doesn't come with a decent transducer u get a basic transducer with a 5000 dollar unit makes no sense.
Thanks brother!! I honestly thought the dealers would be all caught up by now. I still hear the craziest stuff.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS well.u give a better seminar in one video than any booth guy out there and I know u would think they put a high dollar unit out they would put a decent transducer with it I think I got the same transducer on my carbon as a cheap unit 200/83 Pretty sure that exact same transducer that comes standard on the cheapest version correct?
David Farley You are probably right about the transducer. It seems that they either pair it with no transducer at all, like the high end Simrad’s or they pair it with an entry level transducer. If they put a $1000 Transducer in the box most guys will buy some other brand thinking they just saved $1000 bucks.
I think they should put packages together. Maybe a BRONZE, SILVER and GOLD at the very least. Great question brother
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS I hope someone reads this and understands where I'm coming from maybe u can do a video explaining that also.Because I guarantee probably 90 percent of the guys buying these expensive unit doesn't realize they getting a basic transducer to there high dollar unit where if they where to go with a Tm 150 let's say from Airmar thet would get so much more out of it.Its kinda like buying a Dodge viper with a 4 cylinder engine in it 🤣🤣😂.Same engine they put in a neon ya know.Hopefully this info gets out
David Farley You are correct.
Man oh man!! I really love the series!!
Thanks brother!! I thought you would!! 😁😁👍👍👍👍
Another way to explain frequency is the size of brush your using to paint a picture of what's under your boat. High Frequency small brush bounces off the first thing it sees, low frequency bigger brush bounces off the first thing it sees. Your cone diagram shows perfect example. but the display will only show 1 fish regardless to how many fish are in the cone.
Love these videos .So much more to sonar than the on/off button ..
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Your video is very informative and has been a great help.
My new simrad will be here Monday. Thanks for the info
Nice!!!!👍👍
Wow this sonar vid has really helped me thanks !!
These instructional videos are great!
Thank you!
👍👍🙏🙏🙏
In general, the TI units are faster in response to inputs. This is seen when quickly switching between sonar, downscan, chart, and split screens th-cam.com/users/postUgkxeAxH15LxhjGlg5-CRYqjTGTEH0tbY4vk recommend The Hook units will show some lag on button pushes and screen switching. The big ticket item though is maps. If you install a mapping card such as Navionics or the free C-Map Genesis which has a lot of map detail, then moving around the map with the cursor or when running down the lake can lag significantly on the Hook units, but is seamless with the TI units.
Hey Mike, thanks for doing these videos. I really didn’t know too much about fish finders etc... enjoying the education.
I have the TM165hw on my bass boat, love it!
Awesome!! Not many bass boats rockin THATS Beast 👍👍
Thank you very much for this tutorial explained so much in layman’s terms.
Thanks brother! This one can get crazy technical. I speak to some of the guys that work to design this stuff and it’s absolutely exhausting to just listen to them. They don’t have much time to fish.😉😉😉
Thanks for the info need to improve on your sound quality
This video is really good, thanks Mike!
You are a artist. Bob Ross watch out
Great info, thanks! You guys are having way too much fun......
Thanks brother!! 😁😁
Great series of videos. Learned a lot from you. Thanks!
Great video Mike! Very good and simple explanation of CHIRP sonar. Thank you sir!
Kevin E Hendges Thanks brother!! I’m glad you like it!!
Yes , thanks for taking the time to do these videos, and me as well, learning a lot as we go, so thanks again....cept..the intro with earbuds bends my brain, way louder than vid volume, I cannot pull ear phones out fast enough, (sorry, that's my only complaint )
😂😂. I know it. Something strange happened with this upload for some reason. You’re not the only one to say that. 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Can't get any simpler than that. Great video
Thanks Brent!!
I don’t have a simrad on my boat but tomorrow I will be looking at my settings to see what I have and don’t after watching this video
Glad you like it brother!! 😁😁😁Thanks.
Dude Sweet videos I really appreciate them appreciate you two love you mean it
This was an easily understood video. Thanks!
😁😁👍👍
Cool content and explained well. Looking forward to seeing you on the water.
Thanks Brother!!! 😁😁👍
Good info. Just got a humminbird helix 10 si Gen 4. Little intimidated by all the mega plus and dual chirp. When to run which.
Mega plus is just For side scan when set to 1000lhz for the highest resolution. You lose a little range so 800khz is better in open deep water. In less than 30ft use mega plus. For 2D sonar use medium CHIRP all the time.
Mike, getting ready to put the TM275LH-W with CP570 on my cousins 3100SXL Northriver and would love to pick your brain on settings. We are running Axiom 12’s front and back and do all kinds of fishing from shallower Salmon to deep water Halibut in 800 feet of water to albacore offshore trolling and live bait and jigging. Never have had a really consistant picture. Love my Lowrances for the ease of use.
That’s the perfect transducer for you. Salmon and Halibut both can be hard to Mark without air bladders. I would probably leave it in CHIRP settings all the time since I mark airless fish best in those settings. I’m not familiar with Axiom but if you can run both high and low simultaneously it can be a great way to learn the ins and outs of the 275 quickly. Email me if you have any questions. I might be able to help. I would love to see screenshots of halibut on the bottom too. I mark flounder on the bottom all the time. Mikesmedley9@gmail.com
That is the beauty of the CP570, it can run 2 Chirp signals simultaneously with each independant signal showing on split screen for instant comparison.
We can run 2 at once with the Simrad’s as well. Check to make sure it can run a pair of 1Kw transducers at once. Some are limited to 600 watts. The transducers will have 2 plug ends on it as well. I’m not familiar with the Axiom. Make sure it has 2 transducer inputs. Some brands require a separate processor.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS CP570 is the same as Simrad S5100. Runs to Chirp Channels at 2kw each. Have all Carbons on my boat, but don’t have transducers to optimize. My cousins boat will be loaded with newest Raymarine Chirp system available for the Axiom series.
So it will run 3 CHIRP transducers like the s5100?
Great info and a good refresher........👍
Great job explaining this!
Thanks brother!!
Thank you. Been strugling as a newbie with this. Great explanation
Thanks brother!👍
It’s all in the transducer or transducers. Mine has 2 port and starboard. 1800$ a piece it’s a weapon. But very expensive but worth it.
👍
Great video. Thanks. Wondering when the Low Medium and High is best. Ideally I'd like to setup for trolling stripper inshore and fishing around structures. I'd also like to setup for Inshore Tuna and an occassional canyon run.
Thanks brother. This should help. th-cam.com/video/1Pmaw686Nl8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EDfdNst0SY8Jzfj5
Awesome video Mike, just one advice . On the beginning of you video where you show single frequency cones 200hz is wider than 83hz and much wider than 50hz.
I’m not sure I understand what you’re saying here. Maybe I’m misreading it.
For clarification the 200khz frequency is the narrowest cone and 50khz is the widest. Check any Airmar web page.
Even though 50 is the widest it is still the best for deep water (this is where a lot of confusion comes in because people tend to compare it to a shotgun choked pattern). It’s a common mistake actually.
www.airmar.com/uploads/brochures/AIRMAR%20Transducer%20Guide%202009.pdf
Check out the image on page 3.
Search “Guide to transducer technology- Airmar”
. If the link doesn’t work.
Thanks brother.
Very good tutorial that clears it all up. Many thanks for sharing mate!
Thanks brother!!
A1
Great video. There is no substitution for a Airmar broadband transducer. Pick one up and see what you have literally been missing.
Thanks brother!! You know it. 👍
Hi Mike, another great video. Many great tips in there. I currently run a 3D transducer for side & down & a P66 for standard sonar. I really want to upgrade for my birthday this year, with the option of compatibility to chirp readiness. I mainly fish in shallow estuaries, rivers & when the opportunity arises offshore, chasing reef fish & pelagics over reef structures. I wouldn’t fish deeper than 100-150m (700ft). I’ve have a 5m boat if that makes a difference. I’ve been looking at TM 185 LM/LH, TM258, TM260 & TM265LM/LH options. Any tips, advice or recommendations would be amazing, thanks mate😃👍🏼 tight lines.
Any of those would be great but you might want to consider the new Airmar tm165 extra wide high CHIRP. it’s incredible for the depths you fish and won’t require a stronger CHIRP processor.
Mike Smedley Great info mate, thanks. I will look over the TM165. Just for my understanding, where you say a stronger chirp processor, is that in the head unit?? Thanks again mate.
Hi Mike!
Nice vid like always! Very well explained 👌👌
Wich transducer are you running on the real chirp?
I own an Airmar TM275LH and I'm really really happy. Before this one I had the totalscan 3 in 1.
Like you, I think that the sides an is worth the money, but in traditional sonar, the airmar is thousand times better than the totalscan.
Thanks for all the great videos! Waiting for the next one.
Best regards from Spain bro
Thanks brother!!
You have a MONSTER of a Transducer in the 275 LH!! I have used all of the 1KW Airmar CHIRP Transducers over the years. We removed the 275 for 2 175’s. I don’t use low CHIRP because I rarely fish deep enough to need it. Right now I have a B175 H wide (which has the same HIGH BAND as the 275) and a B175 Medium CHIRP for slightly deeper water. I’ve been testing the TM165 High Wide as well. 👍👍
Thanks for your continued support brother!!!
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS
Thanks for the fast answer!
Yes, I have the big one! 🤪
I really use the low frequency, I fish from 0 to 200meters and I'm trying to go deeper to the 300m, will see...
Keep going like always! 💪🏻💪🏻
Best regards!
Nice comparison.👍
I also love the chirp in my boat.
Most of my friends dosen't understand way we love it🤔
Thanks brother 😉😉😉
Great vid Mike, Thanks
Thanks brother Jonny!!! 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the info!
Now I get it, Thank You!
Glad it helped brother!!!
I enjoyed watching you catch fish. The question remains, what is CHIRP.
Seems like the one transducer needs adjusted. Regardless the chirp is better but the returns on the left could be improved by adjusting the transducer and also adjusting the settings on the head unit. Again chirp is still going to be better immage
Thanks for the help understanding transducers.
Very helpful, audio drops off often. Thanks
Can you do a video showing how to change the chirp from low to high? I just bought the same unit and a good high/low chirp transducer.
Sure. Which model transducer and display?
Good stuff...definitely cleared up some things for me.
Thanks brother!!
You have the LOW/MED/HIGH backwards, the cone is larger on the high and narrow on the low. Low is for deep water, high for shallower.
No sir. Low is the widest cone. It’s best for deeper water because of frequency and not because of the cone width. A narrower cone does not travel further, although that’s a common mistake.
According to Airmar, Low has 25 and 16 degrees on the low side and constant 25 on high side, 16 degree penetrates up to 3000 fow where 25 shuts off much shallower. At least on the TM275 LH-W that is what shows on the website.
Higher frequencies rarely travel effectively past 600’. I have that transducer and several others on my boat right now as I am a tester/beta user for Airmar. This link will help clarify what’s goin on. Scroll down to Page 3, it has the details, second paragraph is excellent. Higher frequencies travel quicker and are emitted more frequently yet much shorter so they are good for shallower water and greater detail. It’s actually a very common misconception that narrow cones travel further, it SEEMS like that is how it should be, but it’s not like a shotgun choke. Thanks for the comment brother.
www.airmar.com/uploads/brochures/AIRMAR%20Transducer%20Guide%202009.pdf
The HIgh wide models can be confusing as Airmar has engineered that unit to send a wide cone of 25 degrees in the high frequencies. The reason it “shuts off” is because of the frequency and not the cone size
Wonderful! CHIRP Explained in 4 minutes. So, WHAT IS C-H-I-R-P; That's what I clicked to learn ???????
Compressed High Intensive Radiated Pulse.
Dude thanks for the video but u need to adjust your volume offset between commentary and the cutaway NOISE
That was the best I could do with the stuff I had. Thanks brother.
beautiful video, I wanted to ask you for advice, as regards trolling snapper on seabeds that in my part range from 40 to 90 meters on which frequencies should I stay low, medium or high?
Definitely Medium. Cones are wide to mark more fish, yet it’s not SO wide that you lose bottom detail and miss fish altogether that are sitting in bottom pockets. 👍
Great video! I have the nss evo3 came with the 3 in 1 transducer, What Airmar would you recommend to replace with? Thanks.
Well done! 👍🏻
Thanks brother!
That was a great explanation. One thing I can’t wrap my head around is it a cone or a 2D triangle?
It's a 3d cone sent down and converted to 2d when placed on screen
Awesome explanation. Thanks.
Very good explanation of chirp. Your voice audio was extremely low had volume on high wearing head phones to hear you speak and then got blasted with whatever that was added to your video, I subscribed to your channel but highly request you either wear a microphone and review your videos wearing headphones to avoid your listeners getting blasted to the point it was a little painful. Thank You for taking the time to explain chirp sonar, just please correct the audio for your listeners.....
Bluegrass Crazy Thanks brother!! I have made adjustments since this video. I appreciate the feedback.
Hey Mike. Hope things are going well for you. When you look at transducers like the Active Imaging 3-n-1 now. Which probably wasn't available back when you first made this video. How do they compare to the dedicated Chirp transducers like you were mentioning in this video?
The side scan in them is incredible. That’s actually what I use them for. The CHIRP is ok, certainly better than any traditional transducer I’ve ever used, and a lot better than other brand displays I’ve seen,but they aren’t as good as a b175 or other high end CHIRP transducer.
The comparison result on Simrad is normal. Furuno Rezbost and Simrad chirp wonder the result of comparison :)
Thanks for that Info!
Great video 👍
nice video, thx for good explanation
Thanks so much for the info! I use Garmon on my boat and recently went out to 1800’ of water and my units quit working in 600’. I want to be able to fish in those waters and fish in 70’ what in your opinion would be my best option? Thanks for your help.
definitely high chirp/high frequency. Generally the deeper the water the lower the frequency you need.
Hi are
You able to translate your settings and show what settings your using on the sounder eg auto , low , medium or how on the menus 😎thanks I liked the 4 minute video 😎😎😎
I got you brother!!
This is ALL of my sonar for dummies lessons in one place. At the 58:00 mark it starts with my settings for 2 d sonar and side scan. Thanks for the support brother! th-cam.com/video/ADn8MHuYVk0/w-d-xo.html
Excellente video. Merci.
Thanks brother!!
Mike, do you know what is the difference between B265LM and B265CLM? and we do a lot of bottom fishing, do you recommend the B265LM or B275LHW. btw i am using RAYMARINE PRO 9 RVX
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
I bought a used boat with an Elite7 Ti with what appears to be the active imaging transduce with side scan. From previous comments, it seems that you are saying that this is "real" CHIRP. correct?
I also have a Hook2 7 with the Triple Shot transducer and the unit lists CHIRP as an option...I think in the frequency tab. Is this "real" CHIRP or not?
Hey brother!! Unfortunately I’m not terribly familiar with the Lowrance side. It’s seems some people found some discrepancies in the Lowrance literature. I would check the message boards on The Hull Truth. They have consistent posts on that exact subject.
So what does chirp mean?
Watch videos on metal detecting and you'll fully understand. Minelab perfected this. Glad I bass fish and metal detect.
Awesome video!
Backwards, upside visor....not so much
🤣
Hey Mike awesome video thank you.. questions I have is I am upgrading to a garmin with the HD technology.. which transducer would we need for the chirp ? Most units including my current lowrance says it’s all in one and we do not need to purchase a separate one. If we chose to do so and upgrade performance,I cannot find a transducer thatspecifies it’s better for the chirp settings. Thanks for your time
It probably comes with an “all in 1” type transducer. The CHIRP with those are not the best. Any of the Airmar CHIRP transducers will be a huge step up. This is the least expensive and probably a HUGE improvement over the included transducer amzn.to/2BsVMud
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS awesome thank you. So what I get from that is that airmar makes a transducer with capability to connect to a garmin unit or lowrance unit? The plug-in will be comparable?
The short answer is yes, there is a strong chance that Airmar makes Garmin’s transducers. Airmar makes transducers for most brand displays. However they don’t offer all in 1 transducers with side and down scan. If your Garmin has 2 transducer ports you can add an Airmar CHIRP transducer, but if you replace the all in 1 altogether you will lose side and down scan.
Super simple
Excellent!
Thanks brother !
What setting is best for estuaries?, depth between 1m-7m.
The lowest frequency you have for water that shallow. 83 or 50.
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS great, thanks for replying. I will try those settings
Using Lowrance HDS Gen 3 units, looking at upgrading ducers. With current 83/200 skimmer, I have never saw chirp improvement. Now I know why...great video. The ACTIVE IMAGING 3 in 1
Transducer, does not appear to be compatible with Gen 3. Will the TotalScan skimmer work for Chirp or is there a better product? I fish for Striper in east Tn. on lakes up to 100'.
The least expensive CHIRP transducer that will knock your socks off will be the TM150M CHIRP. It’s been a great transducer for me over the years. TM 150 M amzn.to/2BsVMud
Because the Gen 3 is a bit older you will need this adapter amzn.to/2XEdTH3. Great transducer for those depths. The TM165 is a step up from the 150, but it’s around $150 more than the 150. You will be very happy with either. 👍👍
Your technical description of chirp is wrong. 150KHz to 250KHz is the range. Short of having the detailed operational description from the manufacturer (proprietary information), the transducer could be using anything from two to an infinite number of frequencies between 150KHz and 250KHZ. Saying that there are 100 frequencies is like saying there are only 12 measurements that can be performed with a 12-inch ruler. The reality is probably more like the transducer outputs pulses that sweep between 150KHz and 250KHz with every pulse being a slightly different frequency. Yes this is a better technology but it is not using 100 different frequencies. Understand that 150KHz is a different frequency than 150.1 or, 150.12 or 150.04. The spec of 150KHz to 250KHz is simply the range of frequency employed and how they employ that range is generally not made clear in an owner’s manual. Its probably anything from 5 different frequencies to 25 from one end of the range to the other.
Yes. Thanks for the info. I was trying to keep it as simple as possible. 👍
I’m on the BC coast and wondering how chirp will work. Was told that the P 66 was the best.
The P66 is not a CHIRP transducer. You won’t see any improvement at all. These are 2 CHIRP transducers that are great in different price ranges. I’ve used both.
TM 150 M Transducer
amzn.to/2BsVMud
TM 185 High CHIRP Wide with Xsonic plug end (Evo3)
amzn.to/2XDLJw7
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks Mike for the links, and I understand the P66 is not a Chirp, and want to know if the chirp are good in our waters? Was told the chirp were only good for clear water?
@@garylajeunesse1428 CHIRP was designed in the salt for the deepest waters. Lowrance/Simrad was the first to design CHIRP for the sport fisherman. Before that it was super expensive and used commercially off shore. 👍👍
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS thanks again Mike, and appreciate your response and videos, great information. Had a talk with Wayne at Navico who is very familiar with our area and has recommended the TM275 LH as a good fit. P66 is the most popular used transducer here, but I’m liking what I see from Chirp and figure it can’t hurt to have both. ✌🏻
Low: you will see 3 fish..Med: you will see 2 fish...high: you will see 1 fish. Easy enough to understand..
😂😂😂😂👍👍
As a beginner which frequency should I choose in a freshwater lake
Use the lowest frequency your transducer offers. Lower frequency transducers usually have the widest cones, which are best for locating fish in freshwater since the depths are relatively shallow. If you have CHIRP use medium. 👍
What transducer are you using for high chirp on the right-side unit? You said the left unit was a P66. My understanding is the Tm 150 is for medium chirp. Is Medium or High chirp best for 40 ft or less? Low Chirp is the best for deep water, so high? Thanks
In this video it was the tm275 L/High Wide on the right. I personally like single frequencies in water less than 30-40 feet. You’re correct, High CHIRP is best for shallower water. Low CHIRP is really designed for super deep water. Way deeper than we would see in freshwater.
Interesting! I guess you’re meaning target separation, swim bladders comparison and seeing fish arches within bait balls at 40ft or less is the best it’s going to get with single frequency vs multi frequency according to your transducer comparison studies?
If so then that’s the reason Lowrance only offers the cheaper 83/200 or 50/200 considering Lowrance caters more towards freshwater then Simrad.
I was considering getting a TM150 Medium chirp not so sure it would help now! (High chirps transducers are nice but considerably higher priced. I couldn’t justify the extra cost vs performance in shallow freshwater)
Thanks
Mark Peters Your train of thought is dead-on HOWEVER!!😁. Airmar CHIRP Transducers have very low Q RATINGS. Which means when EVEN SETTING IT ONLY TO A SINGLE FREQUENCY, it will blow a traditional transducer OUT OF THE WATER.
There are a few misconceptions about CHIRP Transducers, 1 is what we were just talking about above, CHIRP IS ONLY GOOD FOR DEEP WATER SO DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY FOR FRESHWATER USE IN SHALLOWER WATER.
While I tend to agree that using the CHIRP BANDWIDTH in only 30 feet of water won’t give you better performance than a single frequency, using a CHIRP Transducer will ALWAYS outperform a fixed frequency transducer in ANY situation.
Short answer???
YES, get that tm150 😁😁. You will be amazed.
TM 150 M amzn.to/2BsVMud
Im running a lowrance carbon 12 inch w 3d and a 83/200 ducer. Primarily muskie fishing 10 to 50 ft where the the shad are schooled up. Vertical jigging is my main stay. Would you recommend the tm150 or the new tm165hw? I was told the 165 would give me a wider cone but still retain the target seperation. Is this true? Great video btw.
It’s true, the higher frequencies make it behave more like a standard 200khz transducer so you get fantastic detail as well. It’s VERY hard to find a better transducer for under $500. If you fish less than a few hundred feet of water it’s the best you will find, by ALOT 😁.
Thanks for the comment brother!!
Using the Go9 XSE, what is the best transducer you recommend? Thanks for the help!!!
Leslie Thibodaux definitely the Active Imaging 3 in 1. The side scan is amazing. You get high and Medium chirp as well. Here ya go!
ACTIVE IMAGING 3 in 1
Transducer
amzn.to/2ErP9ug
How do I see all your fish finder videos, I like the way you teach..im new to them, and I have the lowrance 5x pr,and 4x dsi on dads old fishin boat
I know nothing..
You can go to play lists and select SIMRAD VIDEOS. THANKS BROTHER!!
Hi Mike thanks for all the amazing info. I am adding the active imaging to my transom. I currently have a thru-hull b-60 on my sportsman 207 masters would you leave the b-60 or do you recommend another thru-hull to compliment the active imaging 3-1? At the moment I bay fish mostly so 15-50 ft of water but plan on going a little offshore probably 50-200 ft. This is the first time I have had a boat rigged up with thru-hull to get sonar on plane how do you recommend getting use to marking fish going 15-20 knots?
The B60 is pretty old technology. I would definitely upgrade to a CHIRP transducer. Your display has CHIRP processors so you should take full advantage to open that machine up if it’s in your budget. The Active Imaging is excellent for side and down scan, but this thru hull : amzn.to/2VhdytA is a BAAAAAD UNIT. It has the widest cone of any thru-hull and is excellent for those depths. You will be able to mark fish and bait over 30 mph.
Mike Smedley thanks a bunch I’ll have to stash a couple bucks away rather get the real deal in a few months. Instead of settle for mediocre
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS Thanks again I was going to go ahead and buy this. My boat is a 15 degree deadrise. Do I still want to get this tilt or another product?
Hey brother. It was tricky to find, but this is what you want. It’s for fiberglass boats with your deadrise. amzn.to/2YcMAEO
@@MikeSmedleyOLDSCHOOLSTRIPERS Sweet man thanks again can't wait to put this on the simrad and mark some fatties on the coast. Do I need any adapters to hook up to the simrad or should I be all good? Thanks again and tight lines.
Hey I’m a little confused about the come shape the shadow at the bottom is not round right it’s longer to the sides than forward and back
It’s round with this type of sonar. It’s more oval-ish with side and down scan.
Excellent.
Thanks