Thanks for watching! Don't forget to Like and Subscribe if you enjoyed the video. You can find my write up on this build here on my website: www.murphyscreations.com/youtube/tablesaw-fence-build
Thanks! I decided to try this style, where I don't talk to the camera while building, but voice over later. It allows me to explain things more clearly and I can finish the project faster, as I am not constantly stopping to explain in the moment. It was a fun one to do.
You could add an adjustment to make sure your fence is square(perpendicular) to the table... It's just a slight modification to the section of the angle iron that slides across the top of your guide rail 1) drill and tap 2 fine thread holes (preferably 1/4" hole/6mm for metric) near the far edge of each end of the angle iron that sits on top of the guide rail (if you wanted to over do it you could weld a nut to the top of each side so you have more threads to work with ; the reason you might consider that will become apparent) 2) Use nylon slotted grub screws in the 2 threaded holes you tapped (slotted instead of hex or phillips grub screws so they can be as short as possible. The slot will only have to be 1mm deep for you to adjust the grub screws with a flathead screwdriver). If you cant find nylon slotted grub screws... just get nylon hex or phillips grub screws longer than what you need, cut them down and make your own slot. The grub screws on each end of the angle allow you to make micro adjustments to square the fence with the table. Your fence will slide on the bottom of the nylon screws from then on... obviously because they are what will keep your fence square with the table. You may need to find a light duty thread locker to get them to stay firmly in place.
very nice and informative vid.i especially liked your honest commentary which helped me learn a things or two myself abt other different projects which might get into similar situations. just fr tht i like this vid and btw, nice table saw fence too :). the build of mine is already underway and this vid helped me to make it more the way it would suit my table saw and my work rquirements. Thanks
Keep an eye out for deformation caused by welds. The way that cross piece bowed up is a pretty classic example. When the welds contracted, they pulled the "wings" upward into dihedral. It's a good idea when you're welding something that requires some dimensional accuracy to: 1) fixture everything so it can't deform as much as it cools 2) severely limit the amount of welded area to only what's necessary for strength (those first welds could have supported several thousand pounds. Good job btw :-) ) 3) Limit welds to areas where deformation won't critically affect the sensitive dimension (a single bead on front and back of that angle, parallel to the table) 4) Brazing is also a great option instead of welding, but the tools and fuels are expensive (and it's waaaaaay dirtier than flux core ever dreamed of being) You got yerself a sub, bud. Promise me you won't get bougie when the money starts rolling in. My Bauer tools are every bit as good as my Bosch and my Dewalt stuff. I wanna see a 1M sub maker using the same tools as normal people!
Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate them. If by bougie you mean festool and such, I have no intention to use that brand! The only way I could justify such a price tag is if they offered a tool that would significantly speed up a process and no one else had an equivalent tool. But even then, if there was a good way to do it without their tool using a different process, I would choose that first. I understand the reasoning people use for getting festool and they certainly do offer some really cool tools, but I don't like how they charge through the roof, for tools that aren't any better than much cheaper options. Paying for the brand if you ask me, which I don't support.
Great job! Yes, it's an overview and the details have to be worked out for your own saw. If you need details on drilling a hole, you probably shouldn't build your own fence system. FYI, muriatic acid removes mill scale in about 60 seconds. I stopped grinding it off.
You are not going to believe this but I have CAD drawings I made over 3 years ago that could be of your design including the angle to mount to the table and the 2x2x1/4 wall square tubing. (I cannot come up with a reason to use a rectangle) Very little change in the fence itself, either, including the piece of sheet metal and "square" adjusters. 2-great minds agree. ,,,,, Now all I have to do is to take the tie to actually build mine!
Not square... the adjusters you have on the face of the angle iron that lock to the rail are for adjusting the fence to sit parallel with the miter slots/blade. Square has to do with the fence being perpendicular to the table.
Square, vs Perpendicular? Like Winston Churchill said about ending a sentance with a preposition "That is the sort of pedantic nonsense up with which I will not put." - And they DO square the fence face to the guide rail. We get what they are for....... Down with the gamer gestapo!
I realize the video maker doesn't have the original (Craftsman/Emerson) fence but it is very much maligned as being useless. The problem is: *** OPERATOR ERROR! ***. You have use it like an old fashioned drafting "T Square" by pressing the head against the front rails BEFORE you tighten the back rail clamping screw. It is always parallel to the miter slots for perfect cuts. A tip for those with the original fence is to apply a little silicone lube to the front rail and head. Don't spray it around the saw itself but away from it on to a cotton "Q Tip" or a small piece of tissue while wearing disposable gloves. Then apply the silicone lube and let the solvent carrier dry. It'll slide like it's on ball bearings. A Craftsman (pun intended) never blames his tool.
It appears that your table saw is not the only thing going through a transitional period in its life. At first it was squeaky and had a high pitch whir. But towards the end of the video it's pitch deepend and it grew arm hair.
This video is more of a overview as opposed to a detailed tutorial. If I have time, I might take the raw footage and edit it into a series where I go into details. If you like, I have drawings with measurements available on my website, which is linked in the description.
You're right, I do love the look of the metal, but sadly mine was slightly out of straight so I had to use some birch plywood to make it perfectly straight. I can take that off whenever I want to though.
Thanks for watching! Don't forget to Like and Subscribe if you enjoyed the video. You can find my write up on this build here on my website: www.murphyscreations.com/youtube/tablesaw-fence-build
Great video. Learned a lot about constructing this fence. I have an identical Craftsman table saw.
I'm working on the next upgrade right now. The video should be out in a few weeks at the latest. Adding a splitter.
Thank you . Awesome. I need a fence
My god that was a lot of work. Good job
Thank you! Its so much better than the fence that it had originally.
Great video. Good ideas
This is a great post - good editing and good video quality. Seems as though it was a productive project for you. Hopefully many years of use. 😎
Thanks! I decided to try this style, where I don't talk to the camera while building, but voice over later. It allows me to explain things more clearly and I can finish the project faster, as I am not constantly stopping to explain in the moment. It was a fun one to do.
You could add an adjustment to make sure your fence is square(perpendicular) to the table... It's just a slight modification to the section of the angle iron that slides across the top of your guide rail
1) drill and tap 2 fine thread holes (preferably 1/4" hole/6mm for metric) near the far edge of each end of the angle iron that sits on top of the guide rail
(if you wanted to over do it you could weld a nut to the top of each side so you have more threads to work with ; the reason you might consider that will become apparent)
2) Use nylon slotted grub screws in the 2 threaded holes you tapped
(slotted instead of hex or phillips grub screws so they can be as short as possible. The slot will only have to be 1mm deep for you to adjust the grub screws with a flathead screwdriver). If you cant find nylon slotted grub screws... just get nylon hex or phillips grub screws longer than what you need, cut them down and make your own slot.
The grub screws on each end of the angle allow you to make micro adjustments to square the fence with the table. Your fence will slide on the bottom of the nylon screws from then on... obviously because they are what will keep your fence square with the table.
You may need to find a light duty thread locker to get them to stay firmly in place.
That is a very good idea. I will look into that.
very nice and informative vid.i especially liked your honest commentary which helped me learn a things or two myself abt other different projects which might get into similar situations. just fr tht i like this vid and btw, nice table saw fence too :). the build of mine is already underway and this vid helped me to make it more the way it would suit my table saw and my work rquirements. Thanks
Sweet little container shop
Thanks! It's a work in progress still, but works quite well.
Looking forward watch your channel grow , you seem to have what it takes . Good video , I think I'm going to the same for my bandsaw
I'm happy to have you on board! I'm actually going to build a version of this fence for my bandsaw too.
Keep an eye out for deformation caused by welds. The way that cross piece bowed up is a pretty classic example. When the welds contracted, they pulled the "wings" upward into dihedral. It's a good idea when you're welding something that requires some dimensional accuracy to:
1) fixture everything so it can't deform as much as it cools
2) severely limit the amount of welded area to only what's necessary for strength (those first welds could have supported several thousand pounds. Good job btw :-) )
3) Limit welds to areas where deformation won't critically affect the sensitive dimension (a single bead on front and back of that angle, parallel to the table)
4) Brazing is also a great option instead of welding, but the tools and fuels are expensive (and it's waaaaaay dirtier than flux core ever dreamed of being)
You got yerself a sub, bud. Promise me you won't get bougie when the money starts rolling in. My Bauer tools are every bit as good as my Bosch and my Dewalt stuff. I wanna see a 1M sub maker using the same tools as normal people!
Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate them. If by bougie you mean festool and such, I have no intention to use that brand! The only way I could justify such a price tag is if they offered a tool that would significantly speed up a process and no one else had an equivalent tool. But even then, if there was a good way to do it without their tool using a different process, I would choose that first. I understand the reasoning people use for getting festool and they certainly do offer some really cool tools, but I don't like how they charge through the roof, for tools that aren't any better than much cheaper options. Paying for the brand if you ask me, which I don't support.
Looks good but would be very heavy
That's a positive in my mind! Heavy means it will be harder to accidentally move it out of position.
Great job!
Very nice and informative video. Is it possible to share the locking handle design? Thanks
Great job! Yes, it's an overview and the details have to be worked out for your own saw. If you need details on drilling a hole, you probably shouldn't build your own fence system. FYI, muriatic acid removes mill scale in about 60 seconds. I stopped grinding it off.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I will have to try the acid trick. That sounds like a great idea.
I liked the graphic when you were describing how it would be assembled
Thanks! I realized that would help make it more clear than looking at a pile of unassembled parts on my bench!
You are not going to believe this but I have CAD drawings I made over 3 years ago that could be of your design including the angle to mount to the table and the 2x2x1/4 wall square tubing. (I cannot come up with a reason to use a rectangle) Very little change in the fence itself, either, including the piece of sheet metal and "square" adjusters.
2-great minds agree. ,,,,, Now all I have to do is to take the tie to actually build mine!
What a coincidence!
Not square... the adjusters you have on the face of the angle iron that lock to the rail are for adjusting the fence to sit
parallel with the miter slots/blade. Square has to do with the fence being perpendicular to the table.
You are correct in that. I mixed up the words and didn't catch it.
Square, vs Perpendicular?
Like Winston Churchill said about ending a sentance with a preposition "That is the sort of pedantic nonsense up with which I will not put." - And they DO square the fence face to the guide rail. We get what they are for.......
Down with the gamer gestapo!
@@mathewmolk2089 the table not the guide rail
I realize the video maker doesn't have the original (Craftsman/Emerson) fence but it is very much maligned as being useless. The problem is:
*** OPERATOR ERROR! ***.
You have use it like an old fashioned drafting "T Square" by pressing the head against the front rails BEFORE you tighten the back rail clamping screw. It is always parallel to the miter slots for perfect cuts. A tip for those with the original fence is to apply a little silicone lube to the front rail and head. Don't spray it around the saw itself but away from it on to a cotton "Q Tip" or a small piece of tissue while wearing disposable gloves. Then apply the silicone lube and let the solvent carrier dry. It'll slide like it's on ball bearings. A Craftsman (pun intended) never blames his tool.
Trying to work in that limited space you are lucky you do not suffer from claustrophobia!!
That's the truth!
Great video, unfortunately looks like the website isn’t working guess I’m off to find other plans
I'm very sorry. Working to get it fixed asap. If you send me an email at contact@murphyscreationsfl.com, I can email them to you!
It appears that your table saw is not the only thing going through a transitional period in its life. At first it was squeaky and had a high pitch whir. But towards the end of the video it's pitch deepend and it grew arm hair.
🤣🤣🤣
Cho thông số thép bạn
Mild steel, not sure what kind. It doesn't really matter for this application.
You kept saying " you here here where this or this happened" NO, it was sped up so fast I didn't see much of anything
This video is more of a overview as opposed to a detailed tutorial. If I have time, I might take the raw footage and edit it into a series where I go into details. If you like, I have drawings with measurements available on my website, which is linked in the description.
@@MurphysCreations cool
i hope you havent added any wood pieces to the fence , look at how that looks ,nothing beats the surface of a straight flat metal surface
You're right, I do love the look of the metal, but sadly mine was slightly out of straight so I had to use some birch plywood to make it perfectly straight. I can take that off whenever I want to though.