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Murphy's Creations
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2017
Woodworker and content creator. You can find my website here: murphyscreations.com
A better planer flattening sled using a torsion box.
In this video I show you how to make a planer flatten sled that is guaranteed not to warp using the torsion box method.
Music: “Interlaken Crossroad”
Recorded at Wistia HQ in Cambridge, Massachusetts
Written and arranged by Dan Mills
Performed by Dan Mills
Engineered and mixed by Dan Mills
Mastered by Rob Murray
Album art by Billy Woodward
All songs from ‘Interlaken Crossroad’ are permitted for web use only. Film and broadcast television strictly prohibited. Contact help@wistia.com with questions.
00:00 Intro
00:15 Torsion Box Explanation
00:30 How To Build
03:05 Sealing
04:45 How To Use
06:45 Demonstration
07:30 Results
Music: “Interlaken Crossroad”
Recorded at Wistia HQ in Cambridge, Massachusetts
Written and arranged by Dan Mills
Performed by Dan Mills
Engineered and mixed by Dan Mills
Mastered by Rob Murray
Album art by Billy Woodward
All songs from ‘Interlaken Crossroad’ are permitted for web use only. Film and broadcast television strictly prohibited. Contact help@wistia.com with questions.
00:00 Intro
00:15 Torsion Box Explanation
00:30 How To Build
03:05 Sealing
04:45 How To Use
06:45 Demonstration
07:30 Results
มุมมอง: 2 972
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I need a new and wider fence. I like this a lot. One issue though is that I don't see where you can put the measuring tape.
I realize the video maker doesn't have the original (Craftsman/Emerson) fence but it is very much maligned as being useless. The problem is: *** OPERATOR ERROR! ***. You have use it like an old fashioned drafting "T Square" by pressing the head against the front rails BEFORE you tighten the back rail clamping screw. It is always parallel to the miter slots for perfect cuts. A tip for those with the original fence is to apply a little silicone lube to the front rail and head. Don't spray it around the saw itself but away from it on to a cotton "Q Tip" or a small piece of tissue while wearing disposable gloves. Then apply the silicone lube and let the solvent carrier dry. It'll slide like it's on ball bearings. A Craftsman (pun intended) never blames his tool.
important point about the number of vertical supports: Remember that your planer pushes down HARD. The thinner the skin, the more bowing can occur
Quick explanation of a torsion box: It converts bending into compression. For the top face to bend, the bottom face needs to compress. Wood can bend, but not compress
is it important that the rungs run the short-way instead of the long-way? or is that just a coincidence?
From my research, short ways is all that necessary in this application. I've seen much larger torsion boxes where they run both ways. In this application, the sled is so narrow, having a spine run down the middle won't really do anything. If you used thinner plywood for the skins, maybe it would make sense.
@@MurphysCreations How did you come up with all the sizes? rule of thumb? or did you find a calculator somewhere?
This is going to be my next sled. I have a sled. It was good when I made it, but it warped on me
Looks good but would be very heavy
That's a positive in my mind! Heavy means it will be harder to accidentally move it out of position.
Cho thông số thép bạn
Mild steel, not sure what kind. It doesn't really matter for this application.
I have made a sled like yours, but put the "stop block" on the end in to the planer FIRST. I tried putting it in last like you suggested, but my planer wheels (not the cutter) grabbed the top board and slid it forward off of the sled. So at least in my experience, your planer wheels manage keeping the board from coming back at you, just like they do with any piece of wood you put in there; and the stop block keeps the sled and board from moving independently.
Youre awesome bro
Thanks!
My god that was a lot of work. Good job
Thank you! Its so much better than the fence that it had originally.
Very nice and informative video. Is it possible to share the locking handle design? Thanks
i hope you havent added any wood pieces to the fence , look at how that looks ,nothing beats the surface of a straight flat metal surface
You're right, I do love the look of the metal, but sadly mine was slightly out of straight so I had to use some birch plywood to make it perfectly straight. I can take that off whenever I want to though.
Could you please tell me the dimensions for the steeple clicked on free plans nothing there Thx
I'm sorry about that, I am having to move my website to a different hosting service. The dimensions were 1.5" x 1.5" and 5" tall.
Thx
Great job and project thx for sharing enjoyed it Keep building God Bless
I'm on my second Craftsman belt sander for the sole reason that I like the pointed end, giving it a longer flat basis than the others - and that the handle is so positioned as to give it a low center of gravity, The very negative side is that the bearing underneath the pulley begins to heat up at only slight use, seize up and rotate inside the plastic assembly piece. Repair is near-impossible unless you have saved all unaffected parts from your previous Craftsman belt sander which died the same way. Even than - you must manufacture special servicing tools to effectively hold still some moving parts to prevent them from turning during disassembly and assembly. As an engineer - I find this "Beyond Economical Repair" ethos difficult to swallow, so out of expedience, I buy another one for $75 or more.
very nice and informative vid.i especially liked your honest commentary which helped me learn a things or two myself abt other different projects which might get into similar situations. just fr tht i like this vid and btw, nice table saw fence too :). the build of mine is already underway and this vid helped me to make it more the way it would suit my table saw and my work rquirements. Thanks
Epic intro. Enjoying and learning from your content. Please make more!!! Thank you.
But the harbor freight jig it's offset in any ways
Great video, unfortunately looks like the website isn’t working guess I’m off to find other plans
I'm very sorry. Working to get it fixed asap. If you send me an email at contact@murphyscreationsfl.com, I can email them to you!
Thanks for the video and free plans. I will be trying to make my first one tommorrow. One thingI would to point out is that you shouldn't sand the interior of the house. The fledgings need a rougher surface to cling to when trying to emerge from the house. When very young their nails do not grip very well and they will just slide down to the bottom . They aren't able to develop necessary strength for their wings and legs.
That's a good point, thanks for that!
Great job!
Thank you . Awesome. I need a fence
You are not going to believe this but I have CAD drawings I made over 3 years ago that could be of your design including the angle to mount to the table and the 2x2x1/4 wall square tubing. (I cannot come up with a reason to use a rectangle) Very little change in the fence itself, either, including the piece of sheet metal and "square" adjusters. 2-great minds agree. ,,,,, Now all I have to do is to take the tie to actually build mine!
What a coincidence!
Did you run into trouble using sleds made of plywood/MDF? I totally get why this works and it's a good idea, just curious if you had some specific issues with the usual method to share.
I originally had one made from melamine. It warped over time. A big part of that is that it was stored in an unconditioned space. I plan to insulate my shop this year, but until then, this won't warp on me.
@@MurphysCreationsI feel that - my "workshop" is just my uninsulated garage. Hopefully sometime in the near future we can insulate it, but for now, the MN winters are a real problem.
8:30
Well done! Solid presentation.
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed it!
Makes me wonder how thin you can build a torsion box before it stops working. There is probably a ratio of the thickness to the space between the cross members that needs to be followed to maintain stiffness and flatness.
I did a lot of reading up on torsion boxes before making this one, and the consensus seems to be that the thinner the skins, the closer the interior supports should be spaced. If you were to use 1/4" plywood for the interior supports and the skins, I'm sure it could be problematic. That would be an interesting video to make, testing torsion boxes to see at what point they no longer work.
@@MurphysCreations Your supports are already relatively close to one another, and are much thicker than 1/4". From what I can tell, such thickness should be able to afford you a 12" spacing
Grain is the wrong way on the splines fam.. Otherwise 👍
Very well observed
Is the grain running up and down, but should be running left to right? I'm getting ready to make my own splines this weekend, so I would like to not make the mistake.
Great video man! I definitely agree that todays pressure treated wood is safe but you’ll always get someone thinking differently 🙄. All the best and stay safe!
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. Learned a lot about constructing this fence. I have an identical Craftsman table saw.
I'm working on the next upgrade right now. The video should be out in a few weeks at the latest. Adding a splitter.
To Get the Free Plans, check out the blog post: www.murphyscreations.com/youtube/church-style-birdhouse
Good useful project! Good build to do with the kids.
When my oldest daughter saw it, she was so excited to paint it! Kids love things like this.
@MurphysCreations Nice! These are moments of bonding that make great memories! 😎
@@bjs4291Absolutely.
promo sm 👏
Keep an eye out for deformation caused by welds. The way that cross piece bowed up is a pretty classic example. When the welds contracted, they pulled the "wings" upward into dihedral. It's a good idea when you're welding something that requires some dimensional accuracy to: 1) fixture everything so it can't deform as much as it cools 2) severely limit the amount of welded area to only what's necessary for strength (those first welds could have supported several thousand pounds. Good job btw :-) ) 3) Limit welds to areas where deformation won't critically affect the sensitive dimension (a single bead on front and back of that angle, parallel to the table) 4) Brazing is also a great option instead of welding, but the tools and fuels are expensive (and it's waaaaaay dirtier than flux core ever dreamed of being) You got yerself a sub, bud. Promise me you won't get bougie when the money starts rolling in. My Bauer tools are every bit as good as my Bosch and my Dewalt stuff. I wanna see a 1M sub maker using the same tools as normal people!
Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate them. If by bougie you mean festool and such, I have no intention to use that brand! The only way I could justify such a price tag is if they offered a tool that would significantly speed up a process and no one else had an equivalent tool. But even then, if there was a good way to do it without their tool using a different process, I would choose that first. I understand the reasoning people use for getting festool and they certainly do offer some really cool tools, but I don't like how they charge through the roof, for tools that aren't any better than much cheaper options. Paying for the brand if you ask me, which I don't support.
Just like every other drill stop in history, these will wind up stuck in a corner of a drawer never used because tape, sharpie, and paint pens don't clog your flutes.
Ok
You can do that with a $10 speed square. If you can't, you should not be using the saw!
Thanks bud!
Get it for only $30 here: amzn.to/49jQejW
I think it's great, klein makes some handy tools all around
A level & square did the job before? … what changed I don’t understand
This tool provides better accuracy and is faster.
Powertec Drill Bit Collars: amzn.to/4999q3J
But... if you measured the outside of the threads and got a same sized drill bit, wouldn't your bolt just slide in and out because the threads wouldnt have anything to bite into?
That's the point, then you put a nut on the end of the bolt
It's improper to rely on wood to hold a bolt. I never do. Always use a nut on the other side, or countersink it into the piece of having the extra thickness of a nut on the other side is a problem. A bolt threaded into wood will break the wood "threads" and come out.
As always, great information with a good presentation. The video quality and editing continue to be professional.😎
Thanks! I'm working on trying to be less wordy in my videos. I can tell I'm slowly getting there because the amount of raw footage before editing continues to dwindle 🤣
@MurphysCreations It’s definitely working. I have followed you since you were posting under "The Nate Take." The changes are obvious. You are much more confident on camera enhanced by your video/editing skills. It is nice to see the changes and I always enjoy the information.
Thanks for your consistent support! It's encouraging to see the same people every time.
Outstanding video🎉
Thanks!
Pull Saw Test: th-cam.com/video/O7NTVTeTteM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZTIQcSuR1UliiLE2 Clockwise Tools Digital Calipers: amzn.to/3SBsJvk Irwin Pull Saw: amzn.to/3OBOH08 Scotch Carpet Tape: amzn.to/499uK92 Powertec Drill Bit Collars: amzn.to/4999q3J Klein Digital Angle Finder: amzn.to/3uvl35V
The pace of the song almost matched the pace of the sped up video.
Just about. It was a fun little song to put it to
Nice
Thanks!
Check out my review of the Brad Point drill bit used in the video here: th-cam.com/video/PktypwulpOU/w-d-xo.html Get the Stop Collars I used on Amazon here: amzn.to/42sMyJK
One dowel is good, but two is better.
Correct!