Hi Jacob, As a finish carpenter by trade, I would suggest you use a center push punch when predrilling screw holes. It should eliminate the drill walking away from the intended screw attachment point. Keep up the good work and someday you'll be a famous Luthier.
Thanks for the good suggestion. Those look really inexpensive so I’ll probably pick up one tomorrow. I think the big reason that drill bit kept running off for the strap buttons is because I had it on the L instead of R setting, pure stupidity and carelessness. However, it would have been useful when I installed the string retainer, the maple wood is slippery. That’s also a nice compliment to hear because pretty much everything I do comes from learning from my mistakes.
I've had two Kramer's. I just traded my last one I've had since 86. It was mint and has a 1.75 at the nut. If you liked the the wolf gang neck, you would loved the d shaped Kramer neck.
You’ve probably already figured it out but… I would take the claw out and try to drive the screws all the way in, in case you need it or FU-Tone makes “high” tension springs (red ones) again, if you need to get the trem decked…I think the neck looks fine…excellent job👍
For the misalignment, you can sand down the neck a bit on one side and shim it on the other (to keep a tight pocket). Would have to fill and redrill the neck holes though, as it's maybe 2-3 mm off at most.
If it is a original Floyd Rose, it is wider. that is why you use trembuckers with a Floyd and makes it wider on the fret board. That the way it was on Kramers in the 80's. I'm curious about the radius. The Floyds were 10 inch radius that neck is 12 to16 compound radius neck.
Hey man thanks for watching. The radius on a Floyd is 10" out-of-the-box. They come with a small shim that goes underneath the middle four saddles. If you take that out like I did, then its 12" radius. I wish I would have filmed the Floyd modification process. My Wolfgang has a 12"-16" radius and it feels good. Thats a good note on the trembuckers, though. I have one on my 5150 and the spacing is correct.
That's a beautiful Strat body and the birdseye maple fretboard is nice too! Does the nut assembly have "O" ring washers for the allen screws? Because tightened against the wood might not do! You're doing pretty good but I would bring it to a luither for a basic action and set up adjustment and yank out the string buzz and also, your pickgaurd is way off on the fit in fact the bottom curves don't follow the body curves! One layer is too thin so you might want to go with a two or three layer! I'm a fussy guitar guy too and that makes us better guitar builders!
Thank you. It comes with the washers, but the one hole on the back of the neck is way too shallow (probably by accident) so I need all the depth I can get. I think I also accidentally lost one, whoops. I have a drill press so I'm going to make them a little deeper. The Pacer Deluxe pickguard never follows the body curves. Its a strange thing about them but if you look it up you'll see what I'm talking about. I think its because in the 80s, Kramer just used the same pickguard for all of their different models. This is a .090" thickness 1 ply pickguard which is actually same thickness as a .090" 3-ply strat pickguard. The acrylic is a little trickier than the usual plastic but i think its stiff enough. Thanks for your interest
superstrat = H, 24fret, floyd rose . . many will argue a REAL superstrat = 1 humbucker in the bridge pos, 1 volume knob, top mount floyd rose, 24frt . . .
You are VERY talented... congrats Jacob!!!
you did a good job on this build can’t wait to see the finished product
Thanks I'm patiently waiting until I get the opportunity to paint, then it should all come together.
Hi Jacob, As a finish carpenter by trade, I would suggest you use a center push punch when predrilling screw holes. It should eliminate the drill walking away from the intended screw attachment point. Keep up the good work and someday you'll be a famous Luthier.
Thanks for the good suggestion. Those look really inexpensive so I’ll probably pick up one tomorrow. I think the big reason that drill bit kept running off for the strap buttons is because I had it on the L instead of R setting, pure stupidity and carelessness. However, it would have been useful when I installed the string retainer, the maple wood is slippery. That’s also a nice compliment to hear because pretty much everything I do comes from learning from my mistakes.
@@jacob_zang Glad to help. Looking forward to Part 4.
I've had two Kramer's. I just traded my last one I've had since 86. It was mint and has a 1.75 at the nut. If you liked the the wolf gang neck, you would loved the d shaped Kramer neck.
You’ve probably already figured it out but… I would take the claw out and try to drive the screws all the way in, in case you need it or FU-Tone makes “high” tension springs (red ones) again, if you need to get the trem decked…I think the neck looks fine…excellent job👍
I did not know about the high tension springs. I will think about it, thanks for your help.
For the misalignment, you can sand down the neck a bit on one side and shim it on the other (to keep a tight pocket). Would have to fill and redrill the neck holes though, as it's maybe 2-3 mm off at most.
If it is a original Floyd Rose, it is wider. that is why you use trembuckers with a Floyd and makes it wider on the fret board. That the way it was on Kramers in the 80's. I'm curious about the radius. The Floyds were 10 inch radius that neck is 12 to16 compound radius neck.
Hey man thanks for watching. The radius on a Floyd is 10" out-of-the-box. They come with a small shim that goes underneath the middle four saddles. If you take that out like I did, then its 12" radius. I wish I would have filmed the Floyd modification process. My Wolfgang has a 12"-16" radius and it feels good. Thats a good note on the trembuckers, though. I have one on my 5150 and the spacing is correct.
That's a beautiful Strat body and the birdseye maple fretboard is nice too! Does the nut assembly have "O" ring washers for the allen screws? Because tightened against the wood might not do! You're doing pretty good but I would bring it to a luither for a basic action and set up adjustment and yank out the string buzz and also, your pickgaurd is way off on the fit in fact the bottom curves don't follow the body curves! One layer is too thin so you might want to go with a two or three layer! I'm a fussy guitar guy too and that makes us better guitar builders!
Thank you. It comes with the washers, but the one hole on the back of the neck is way too shallow (probably by accident) so I need all the depth I can get. I think I also accidentally lost one, whoops. I have a drill press so I'm going to make them a little deeper. The Pacer Deluxe pickguard never follows the body curves. Its a strange thing about them but if you look it up you'll see what I'm talking about. I think its because in the 80s, Kramer just used the same pickguard for all of their different models. This is a .090" thickness 1 ply pickguard which is actually same thickness as a .090" 3-ply strat pickguard. The acrylic is a little trickier than the usual plastic but i think its stiff enough. Thanks for your interest
bigger tone block, try titanium
Cool idea. I’ll see how this sounds first
superstrat = H, 24fret, floyd rose . . many will argue a REAL superstrat = 1 humbucker in the bridge pos, 1 volume knob, top mount floyd rose, 24frt . . .