So Smooth... Ironing Settings in Cura for Perfect Top Layers - 3D Printer Pro Tips
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- How to Ironing Settings in Cura for Professional and Super Smooth Top Layers. Perfect 3D Prints by using Ironing Setting in Cura.
✅ Hatchbox Filament [AMAZON]: geni.us/cdeF61
A 6 Minute Video on everything you need to know for perfect top layers and ironing with your 3d slicer. Ironing Perfection with Cura.
⭐ Ironing Test Block(shorter version): www.thingiverse.com/thing:477...
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Good introduction to ironing. I've never really bothered to use it before but now im inspired to do that actually as the improvements are rather evident here. I used to use defaults which didnt work too well.
Agreed. Everything needs a little tweak to get it smooooooth! Working on Lithophanes video now! Be sure to subscribe to keep updated.
Thanks a lot! I'm new to this and tuned my printer up and really wanted that higher top quality layer. Gonna print a test cube with the settings thanks a lot! It's much appreciated!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for a very clear and understandable explanation - its so valuable.
Thanks. You are welcome.
This is amazing!!! Thank you so much. Can't wait to do some re-prints :)
You are welcome.
simple but efficient explanation Thanks'
Big thanks will try it out just in a minute. Best Regards from Germany.
Did it work for you? Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. The top layer is harder to get right than the first layer
Thank you, realy helped improving the Prints... i did not like to do 2D prints because the top layer looked so bad... now i can print everything :D
Glad to help!
Great video, Just going to give these ironing settings a go.
One thing i have been trying to master for PETG is Bridging, I think i may have it down to a T nearly though.
Min Bridge length - 0.4
Skin support threshold - 50
Sparse infill max dens - 0
Bridge Wall Coasting - 100
Bridge wall speed - 10
Bridge wall flow - 50
Bridge Skin Speed - 10
Skin flow - 60
Skin density - 100
Bridge Fan speed - 100
Bridge has Multiple layers
Second skin
speed - 20
skin flow - 100
Skin density - 75
Skin fan speed - 100
Third Skin
Speed - 30
Skin flow - 110
Skin density - 80
Skin fan speed 100
Try these on the next video you do, unless you have your own.
I will give it a try... thanks
Thank you. Great explanation.
You are welcome!
Thanks for this tip! 👍
You are welcome. Working on video for Lithophanes. Subscribe to keep updated.
Just The video I needed thank you !
You are welcome. Be sure to subscribe.
Thank You So Much!!! Much Love Brother
Any time! You are welcome.
*Thanks! Very well explained.*
you are very welcome... stay tuned for more vides to come!
Thank you sir.you helped me a lot.keep Rocking❤️
you are very welcome.
thanks that was helpful
you are welcome... stay tuned for more videos.
Great video! 👏👏👏
Thanks for watching.
awesome tip!
You are very welcome. Thank you for the subscribe.
Nice video bromigo. Keep it up :)
Thank you. Be sure to sub! Working on 2 more this week.
Thank You! subbed!
thanks for your support.
Can you provide a screenshot of your Irning setting in Cura 4.11.0 now that some of the settings are missing and others are added?
Thank You
You are welcome.
thank for a real great help god bless
Thank you… and, you are welcome.
Hi, nice vid. Did you do the p´rint with all metal hot end?
Excellent result. I like the video format too; explaining ironing (or most individual features/settings) doesn't need to be a half-hour video. Well done; you've earned a new subscriber here.
Thank you so much. Any topic you would like to see?
Very useful, thanks
thanks
Watching your video for the first time, great video, thanks. You might have mentioned it elsewhere, I am curious to know your reasoning for setting the line width to 0.4mm instead of more common 0.44mm (ie. 110% of nozzle).
Great question... I have profiles for use with .4mm nozzles at .4, .42. and .44 line width. For this video I opted for traditional .4mm line width to avoid issue for this who might try to copy all of my settings line for line. .4mm will work much better and more accurate across the board, especially if you are trying to print at steep angles. At .44 line width you will get thicker walls and slightly better adhesion on print, but fine details can get just slightly softened. To wrap up, it kind of depends on the print. Most of the time, I run at .44mm. For steep angles, fine details or when accuracy is paramount... I go with .40mm.
Thanks for asking.
Love this. Thanks. I'm new and I would like to use my 3D printer for silicone mold making. But I would like it to be smoother.
I have made silicone molds from 3D prints… the secret of getting smooth casts or molds is to… print a clean item, lightly sand, primer, and then sand again. Then it will be perfect.
Also a vacuum chamber and a pressure chamber will take it to perfection. I will have to do a video on the process. But, it may be a while as its a long process.
@@tr3nDmaker we're still waiting!
Awesome video Thank you! also do you have a cura profile that you use with 4mm tip for super fine detail, my layers look good but my bottom layer looks like trash
send me a pic with basic settings... Here is my Facebook page... facebook.com/tr3nDmaker/
I used these settings and it helped, however the surface still has subtle ridges. I am creating a 4" x 4.5"x 1" high rhinestone with a translucent PLA. Any suggestions for settings? I have had my Ender 3 v3 KE for a week. Thanks!
Ohhh mmmm GGGG super clean tutorial video... I appreciate you for sharing this!!!
I did a print and I did get a smooth top but I got like a line...I wish I could share a picture so you can tell me if I need to adjust it some more-thanks again and you have a subscriber as of now:)
s
Sent it to via Facebook: tr3nD maker. I ll bet something is not properly tensioned though. Watch my video on leveling bed with paper. Pay special attention to section on what a properly adjusted printer should look like... This is Super Important!
@@tr3nDmaker perfect i sent you a direct message-thank you for replying
@@abecerra4013 Hope that helped!
Good job.
Thanks you. Be sure to sub... video on petg posting Saturday.
Is it possible to do ironing on the bottom first layer? When I print on a raft and it's finished taking the raft off the layer connected to the raft is not smooth
What would be the best ironing setting if you were printing a cosplay helmet and the model printing is curved? Does ironing only work on a flat surface?
Layer resolution will help with curved parts…. Ironing setting only works on flat surfaces.
Thank you
you are very welcome.
With Ironing I want to change the direction from the 45 degree pattern to a 90 degree. I'm printing building walls (Laying Flat on the build area) and want the final iron to be 90 degrees or parallel with the bottom of the wall. An bit of angle looks un natural in a building and horizontal lines look better than vertical as we naturally build buildings from the ground up..
Change the "Top/Bottom" pattern to "Lines" and then if that doesn't do it, change "Top/Bottom Line Directions" to [90,180]. I'm not certain the values are separated by commas or white space. I think it's commas though.
@@KLP99 Brilliant.. 👍 I've often wondered what the brackets were for
Great vid. My constructive feedback is for you to zoom in on your Cura settings while you’re talking about them
Great idea... I will try that for my next video.
So that is what ironing does... Super useful and won't require too much sanding
It is a very overlooked feature that gives your prints a more finished look. thanks for watching.
@@tr3nDmaker just used it on a piece and it looked super smooth on the top layer. I could dial it in some more, but it would have to be on a piece by piece basis
@@KRGraphicsCG Sounds like you got the hang of it.
@@tr3nDmaker I also started using super glue on my printed pieces
@@KRGraphicsCG very nice... I have a video soon on how to get superior bond with glue and chemical fusion of parts
I want particularly outstanding high quality ironed prints, my settings are tweaked to 0.1 precisions. I have noticed PLA varies in quality when ironing. PLA+ seems to have extra chemicals in that I believe affect ironing. Currently I now use Hatchbox Matte PLA (outstanding!), I was shocked to see how perfect it was with no lines visible. Because they do not have all the colours I need I also use eSUN ePLA Matte which is pretty good but second best. I am trying to find another brand to add to the mix, if anyone knows any that are insanely good?
Hello! I was wondering if ironing adds on to the total height of the object. For example if I were to print a calibration cube, would enabling ironing cause the cube to be slightly taller than if it were off?
That is a great question...
I believe it does not...if so, just an extremely tiny amount. The setting basically re goes over top layer adding a tiny bit of plastic like 5-8% which mostly fills on gaps. However, It is adding plastic, so depending on your settings, it may fractionally. I think you will get more variation based on bed level, than ironing. If you had ironing flow very low or zero... then it should not add to height.
I had to think about this question..
@@tr3nDmaker I appreciate the reply back! Have a great one!
I have messy bottom layer but rest is fine, any suggestions?
Do you know how well this works for the elegoo
awww nice guy, really seems cool :)
thanks... more to come
Hi!
I just started tinkering with ironing and I'm realising that the printer or slicer doesn't appear to be compensating the extruder feed rate properly when ironing.
What I mean by that is when the printer does ironing back and forth with 40 mm lines everything is uniform and nice but then when it needs to go down to a 15 mm region back and forth there is a constant hump in the extrusion until it reaches a larger ironing region.
Is there any way to fix this? Thanks for the video to start me off!
Re-check settings across the board. .4mm line. try 12-15% flow. VERY IMPORTANT... confirm NO bed, extruder or X axis wobble. Weird stuff like this happens all the time if something is loose and wobbles.
@@tr3nDmaker thanks for that! I have tweaked my top skin layer and I now have it working much better. I ended up removing all but two walls and changing the line direction to 0 and 90 which ended up fitting the z more nicely on my test cube. Then I inset the outer wall by 0.1 mm and reduced the top line width to 0.25 mm from 0.5 and increased extrusion to 15%. My ironing is near perfect without humps except for retraction points. Having that top layer surface nice and fine was the key for my 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height
@@xXFULLFU210NXx Glad to help!
Hi, how do you get such a smooth bottom? I have visible lines
You need to lower your nozzle or reduce gap from nozzle and bed. A perfect 1st layer should squish just a bit to connect all lines. Check out my video on leveling bed with paper. Special attention to examining 1st layer and what to look for which is near the end.
@@tr3nDmaker Yes, it really worked. When calibrating the table, I had a problem. I aligned the corners, but the center was low. I had to put aluminum foil under the glass to get a smooth surface
Any chance you would share the cura profile you were using for this test?, thank you.
I have probably changed it by now.. But, watch video and pause to see my settings. I have never had much success with using other's profiles... they are often best used on one machine. I would start with the stock Cura profile and adjust setting and speeds from video. Going slow is the key to PETG... Then increase speed via trial and error. Good Luck.
Hi, I use ironing, but for some time I have small holes in the last layer, I increased the number of upper layers but I do not understand why I suddenly have these small holes, I should increase the flow according to you?
This could be several issues... I really ned to see it to fully comment. But try... 5-10% more flow. Slow top layer. Temp too hot?
How does top layer look without ironing on? Holes still there?
@@tr3nDmaker I'll try without ironing !
How well has this setting worked on the ultimaker s5
I would guess these would work… possibly a hair more inset.
Did you stop creating content? I was really hoping for more videos on 3d printing your videos have helped me dial in my PETG settings though I struggle with slight stringing still and my bridges still suck. But for none complex mechanical parts I have been making they print beautifully.
I kind of took a pause in videos. But, good news is… I am currently setting up a custom ordered Mac Studio computer, which should massively help with new content. So, I should be picking my 3D Printing videos up in September.
@@tr3nDmaker sweet! Im excited for more content man! Not sure if its up your ally but doing a custom 3d printer build series would be a cool one. Im stuck having to print complex parts on a 220 x 220 xy bed. I would really love to learn how to build my own printer with a print bed size of 2ft by 2ft.
@@Kenneth91619 What are you trying to do that is that big?
Does this work only for flat surfaces or will it work for figure prints as well.
Flat surfaces only… for curves the only option is to lower resolution.
nice video, 1:48 what was that
Whenever I use ironing I get these lines through it and I think it's from combing being on
Combing Mode should be set to "NOT IN SKIN". This will keep extruder from passing over ironed sections.
How do you iron the first layer or the bottom surface?
You don't use ironing for getting super smooth first layer. To get super smooth first layers... First be sure printer is 100% adjusted properly... ie. belts and all eccentric nuts. Next, Level bed to perfection, may take 3 or 4 passes around bed. Finally, adjust nozzle height till you are getting perfectly connected layer lines without plastic curving up. It is not easy at first. Once you get the hang of it... it is easy. Good luck. Video on this topic soon.
Anything similar for under layer resting on bed?
Yes. Check out my video on Leveling Bed with Paper... Pay attention to close up of what too little or too much gap looks like.
hey i have se alot video on 3D printning so i could learn. i just get my 3D printer on monday 7/3-2022 and i have many issue to get at nice print and i still have no nice print. and leveling its right and all bevel its check. i am new in this 3D world and i dont know mutch on it. can you tell me what fileament you use on it and could you upload your cura file on it ? so i can see what settings i do wrong i have do what you say in this video at its not neat to look like yours hope some pro could me in start so i can print and get nice and smooth things
Congratulations on your 1st printer! To start.. getting nice prints takes a bit of time and patience. But, I can say 90% of the time with beginners... eccentric nuts, belt tension and bed leveling are the issue. Check out my video on bed leveling with paper. Pay close attention or re-view the section on being sure bed and belts are adjusted properly. Bed should have zero movement or wobble. Belts should be snug, but not tight. And, leveling bed should be as indicated in video. Watch section at end with what to look for on first layer.
As for profile. You should get good results running stock profile in Cura. I only slightly tweak these settings. Getting 3D Printer adjusted properly is likely your issue.
Good luck.
@@tr3nDmaker Thx. and i just look on your video whit bed levling and the video: How to Smash the First Layer Like a Pro .
Before i do this, as say i am pretty new in this world and i am not sure i will do ir right
but can i send your a email whit 2 picture maybee you cann se what my problem could be..
yes have no idea its will be so hard and so mutch work to get a 3d print. but okay i not give up.
Should I use fan on ironing?
I always leave fan ON. However, you can change shine of top layer by turning fan down or off.
@@tr3nDmaker thank you
would you using ironing on a rounded character?
Depends... Ironing is best used when there are flat surfaces. So, if character has flat base or holding something flat... Yes. If more rounded... probably not needed.
Hi how would I get the top of a helmet smother
The top of a helmet is curved… so, the only way to smooth it is to have lower resolution. Of course, on a big print… it will take days longer. I usually print helmets at .24 and just sand and fill before painting.
what is the wiping tower setting for
Wiping Tower should be disabled unless you have a Dual Extruder for multiple colors. This creates a small tower next to model to allow the filament to purge out last color and allow new color to flow.
Hello I am interested in your test but I can not find the same position of the elements I am in version 4.9.0 could you provide me with the ironing parameters for this version with my thanks
Bonjour
je suis intéressé par votre essai mais je ne trouve pas la même position des éléments je suis en version 4.9.0 pourriez-vous me fournir les paramètres de repassage pour cette version avec mes remerciements
Ironing Setting... May need to tweak a bit.
Pattern: Zig Zag
Line Spacing: 0.2
Flow: 12
Ironing Inset: .25-.3
Speed: 25mms
Accelearation: 700
Jerk: 7
Skin Overlap: 15%
Skin Removal Width: 1.2
Skin Expand: 1.2
Max Skin Angle: 90
Skin Width Expansion: 0.0
I hope this helps...
I want to print a thin square faceplate/panel. I need the finished result to be 4mm thick. I'm using a .4 nozzle and PLA filament. What setting would you recommend in the 'ironing' section of Cura to get a smooth top layer finish. At the moment, my resolution does not need to be super good, but I've been frustrated that none of the iron settings I've tried have met with success. I want to get the settings worked out first and then good to a better resolution later. Please advise. BTW, your example print looks great with your settings.
A couple things I would suggest first...
Most 3D punters and not really assembled and tuned properly. Do this first. Belts snug, No wobbling of bed, hotted or x axis. If this stuff is loose... variables change and top layers look inconsistent. Next, calibrate / tune your extruder. These are always off by 7-8% if you are not sure how to do this... just try 93% flow and see if it helps. If it does... likely your issue. Lastly, every printer is a little different. Scroll thru my video and copy all setting. Give a try... tweak in little increments. Good luck
@@tr3nDmaker Thanks for the reply. I have calibrated what I know to calibrate. My machine is new..ish, but I did replace my extruder with a better one (TH3D), as well as a new hotend a couple weeks. All the belts are tight and there does not appear to be any slop in the mechanism of the machine (X,Y and Z axis). In every other respect my prints look very, very good - except for the top layer. I will continue to look into the overall settings, especially the top layer, and ironing ones.
Please share the file from the video
Nikocado Avocado of 3D-printing. (jk great tips :D)
you are very welcome!
Good video. Just zoom in on the settings next time. I can't see what you're clicking on.
good advice!
I wish my top layers looked like yours without ironing. For the life of me I can never get it like that.
1st step... Get perfectly adjusted ecocentric nuts and belts. Then tune your extruder... vid coming soon on all this.
Can anyone write the settings? I don't know English.
Whole you mind sending me your settings for cura?
Ironing Setting:
Pattern: Zig Zag
Line Spacing: 0.2
Flow: 12
Ironing Inset: .25-.3
Speed: 25mms
Accelearation: 700
Jerk: 7
Skin Overlap: 15%
Skin Removal Width: 1.2
Skin Expand: 1.2
Max Skin Angle: 90
Skin Width Expansion: 0.0
I hope this helps...
@@tr3nDmaker Bro it helped me a lot! Thanks.
The text in the video is all blurred for me on 1080p full screen so can't make out any of the settings! (all other videos I watch are nice and sharp.) I guess it's because it's possibly recorded in 4k and converts poorly to 1080!
I will check that out and see what is happening. Thanks for letting me know.
@@tr3nDmaker Cool. It looks very useful though, so I would be keen to see it properly. (btw: I tried it in FF and Chrome)
@@davidl1813 Text shown in Cura Settings or text that I add at bottom of screen? Are you scaling your screen in monitor settings? Let me know, I will type the data out for you.
@@tr3nDmaker The text in cura settings, but no need to type out the settings, a simple screenshot of the most important settings would be cool. But thanks for the kind offer though.
I normally watch youtube in a wide window, but I also tried your video in full screen 1080p HQ with no luck. btw: I'm looking at "T-splines in Fusion 360" in a wide window across 2/3 's of my screen (720p) and all is visible and seems reasonably clear. Maybe the comparison will help with your next video. But I do like the format and everything else in it :)
My ironing looks awful. :-\ Jus kind of smears plastic around. It looked better before it ironed.
My initial thought is too hot and/ or too much flow. Flow should be around 10-15%
@@magicofspeed ironing doesn't prevent holes in the letters of my last layer, I don't know what to do, I can increase the number of top layers, the flow, put the ironing at 20% I always have holes in the last layer while the first layers are superb :-((
Can you please send me your cura profile for your ender 3?
Swapping profile is unlikely to work and rarely do, as every printer is adjusted and tuned differently. Believe me, I tried every profile I could find when I first started 3D printing. Rarely helped and often frustrated me more. Plus, most of my profiles are older version of Cura and I tweak them based on the print. Also, my printer is super tuned which is why prints look so clean even at basically standard profile. ( I'll do a video on this soon)
Here is what you should do...
1st Be sure entire printer and uprights are square.
2nd Be sure eccentric nuts and belts are properly adjusted. No wobble at all and belt should make a quick sound when strummed like a guitar( just a quick sound and not flopping).
3rd Load standard profile from Cura. Go thru video and copy my settings as you see them. As for retraction... this is going to vary greatly based on tension of spring and nozzle on printer.
That should get you 95% where you need to be. Hope this helps.
@@tr3nDmaker thank you so much! Love ur videos! Also how come you haven’t uploaded in a while?
Cool video mate, just an idea, next time when you want to show too layer differences don't film yourself while doing it :P Probably easier to show them that way
Super hard trying to figure out the values you are entering when watching on a phone, and you are recording the whole screen. Try only recording the spots you are talking about so we can see the settings on our phone.
Great tip! I will do that in future videos or text on screen.
👍
your welcome. Working on video to make Lithophanes. Be sure to subscribe to keep updated.
Tried ironing. Not impressed. Went back to Creality Slicer
Go with what works for you.
@@tr3nDmaker Ya, sandpaper.
Why these guide videos always prints easiest object.
Ironing only works on flat surfaces, so I designed object to demo this feature. Including: a step, up to edges, and a hole.
if you talk very fast like that no one watches you without press & holding space button .d
but perfect result
you dont need to yell ;-;