2007-2013 GMC Yukon Denali. Replacing front wheel bearing and CV axle.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- Changing the front wheel bearing and cv axle on a 2007-2013 GMC Yukon. Same process for either side. Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade, Sierra, Silverado.
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This was extremely helpful! Thank you.
Great video, very thorough. I'd say personally to save alot of time, I'd skip removing the strut bolts. You can still maneuver the cv axel out and back into place without removing the strut at all. But it definitely gives you more room to work with, that's for sure. Well done sir, I'll be doing mine here tomorrow and I always scour TH-cam for last minute tips and tricks. Thanks for the video.
Good luck on the project.
I couldn't get my axle out without moving the strut the first time. Then I saw some guy recommended separating the ball join instead of messing with the strut. So the other side tried the ball join method and destroyed the ball joint lol. :(
Great video. Including torque specs was a bonus! Much appreciated!!!!
Thank you for your time and services. Made my job easy.
Thank you for this video. I'm a TH-cam mechanic and this was very helpful. 👍
Woooooow by far the best most informative and easy way to do automotive work!!!! I'll look for more...amazing I might just wanna pay you to come fix my truck 😅🤣🤣🤩🤩🤩🔥🔥💪🏾💯💯💯👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Excellent video! Thank you for including the torque values
Great Video. Thanks for sharing
Excellent tutorial on how to do this. Thank you for sharing this.
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@Darwin Russell Instablaster =)
Great video
Maybe this will save someone some headache:
If your wheel bearing if stuck/rusted on, heat that thing up and whack it with the biggest hammer you have. Mine was a bear to get off very frustrating lol. I also had to use heat on the axle nut and then it came right off
The company RCV makes the strongest axle CVS and now they make them for Chevy 1500 trucks and SUVs. They have a awesome lifetime replacement warranty too. They’re for hardcore off-roading.
That's was through and spot on except the 36mm axel nut is actually a 35mm.. Would have liked to see your tools though. Like the cleanup tool for the hub housing and the torque wrench. Also would have liked to see where the parts came from and possibly part numbers. Thanks for sharing your work. Job was done right
Andddddd skipped the torx bolt removal. Typically i use impact screwdriver n hammer. But many backup bits people they crumple, crack, and twist off into the torx bolt.
Anyone know if there are 2 diffrent hub assemblies that have a diffrent ABS sencor?
No grease on the spines on the cv
An easier way to separate the hub from the knuckle: put the hub mounting bolts back in so that only a few threads are engaged and the bolt head sticks out from the knuckle. Hit each bolt with a heavy hammer. You may need a sacrificial socket.
Goog job
Is there any reason why the truck won't pull when in drive or reverse after replacing those parts?
To add ive change the hub but still wobbly over 60 and when braking like something is bent ive changed everything except the axle do u think that is the issue???
Have you had your tires balanced and have you replaced your brake rotors?
What brand hub and axle did you get?
Detroit axle.
I think the wheel bearings are bad on my 2007 gmc denali but how would I know for sure give me a for instance while I was driving it please and it's getting dark here soon so the sooner the better
You can grab the wheel and try yanking out or shoving in. If you feel a clunk they are bad. Also you can listen for a roaring or rubbing type noise when driving.
Didn't show putting strut back into place lol
How’d you take the axel nut off? Lots of cursing?? Is that why you skipped that part of the tutorial?
It is best to have an impact gun. If you do not a long breaker bar with someone holding the brakes on.
I know absolutely nothing about vehicles so when you say torque to 170 lbs I have no idea what that means.
That is a measurement of how tight something should be. You will need a torque wrench in order to get it correct.