How To Replace Left and Right CV Axle on Chevy/GMC/Cadillac Trucks 2007 - 2013 GMT-900
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ม.ค. 2025
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Complete step-by-step guide to replacing the driver or passenger side CV axle on your 2007 - 2013 Chevy Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL, and Cadillac Escalade truck, GMT-900 platform
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Buy the CV axle here (fits both sides): ebay.to/2wjubdL - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
To the point with all needed info and no time wasted blabbing. I'd pay for a video like this.
Best video I’ve ever seen for this process! I’ve gotta replace mine so I’m much more confident so thank you!
This is the best video I have found!
Saved it in my 2008 Chevy 'Dually' Folder.
Thanks for sharing, this is more helpful than the rest of tutorials. Saved me time after removing the strut on the opposite side to get it
I’ve been fighting with broken axle for days. Watched this video and old one fell right off. Putting new one on tomorrow. Thank you!
Great video - simple and to the point, you called out all the socket and wrenches sizes, including torque spec.s....great...I will now be following your great advice this weekend pulling the drive axle out of my 2005 Cadillac Escalade. ...Thank you big time.
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Thanks so much, you really help me out!
@Roberto Legend glad I could help =)
Followed step by step + removed sway bar linkage for extra clearance and ease of installation. Great instructions! Thanks!
This video was right in time and thorough. Thank you. Fixing mine in the morning.
Just did this on my 2007 yukon 4wd. I also replaced the hub with the cv axle. For those thinking about doing this, it is not that hard and very doable. If you replace the hub because you also have a bearing problem, have an air chisel to release/ break the hub loose. Also, the Harbor Freight Hercules 1/2 inch compact impact wrench is a great little tool that saved a lot of time on this job. For me, it was three hours start to finish with mickey mouse silly mistakes.
Just did this on 2013 Silverado 4wd. If you don't want to remove the strut or ball joint, you can just remove the sway bar link and then drop the front diff. It is just two 18mm bolts and two 22mm nuts. Use your floor jack to support the diff and to raise it back up when you are done. You'll have to remove 1 of the lower strut mounting bolts to make some room as well. Much easier then removing entire strut or ball joint. Especially if you have an impact to remove those 2 nuts and 2 bolts.
I just did this job on my 2008 Escalade EXT on both sides. No need to split the ball joint or completely remove the strut. Trick is to loosen all three strut nuts on the mount under the hood. Back the nuts off so just a few threads are holding them. Then remove the bolts that attach the strut to the bottom A arm. Now you will have the ability to shift the strut back and allow it to drop in the A arm giving you plenty of space to get the axle out. No worries on the load on the strut. It will not spring out. Very easy to put it back in place. I did the driver side first and it took me 3 hours
just because I was trying to avoid messing with the strut. The passenger side took me less than an hour.
😬😬 3 hours for a cv axle🤦♂️ i did it in 20min.. just loosen sway bar link pull the bolt out to give clearance on top.. dont even have to take the wheel off🤣🤣🤣
@NORCALPYRO_ mine had broken sway bar links.. so didn't take me long either, but I got new wheel bearing, cv axle and swaybar links
Good job the video and descriptions! On my '07 Suburban, there was no need to drop the ball joint, just drop the strut assembly to have clearance to remove and reinstall the axle.
Do not clamp down the ball joint threads to stop it turning. There is a allen key hole on it for a reason.
Good video
Last time I did this on my Yukon XL I removed the strut to get clearance. Next time I'll separate the ball joint.
I did mine but instead of dropping the upper control arm I just removed the coil spring shock assembly. It was only 5 bolts and came out super easy to make enough room for the cv axle removal.
For the axle is in the way of one of the lower strut bolts someone put it in from the top, and then Putting it back in was hard also
Very well done video - great details and tips!!
Great Job young man really appreciated the video and info, it helped alot
You don't have to drop ball joint just take strut loss and Trac bar link and axel slides out
Great video! Thanks for posting
if your replaceing the the rotors and the brakes pads too can you do t all in one shot and would it be easier
Was it making a noise or anything? My Escalade is making a noise. Also the cv joint is leaking grease. Just trying to get some knowledge on it before I change something out
Yes it makes a clunking when you take off from a dead stop and it will sometimes "thud" when the truck down shifts. Then when turning a chatter sound. I have an Escalade EXT and going to do this today. Both sides but the driver side is the bad one
Are they the same torque specs the same for a 2018 Chevy tahoe
I just learned this the last time I changed lower ball joints but you can usually put an allen socket on the bottom of the upper ball joint stud to keep it from spinning.
Doing my 09 Sierra hopefully tonight
today I was thinking about the same way. But a lot of guys do that by the strut removing. Which way is easier?
If you stack your leveling kits on these truck removing the struts can be a job but you can do it the way way he did the only thing I would have done different than this guy was I would have removed the sway bar end links
Mine just broke 2008 Silverado looks simple but I don’t have the tools I wonder what the shops going to charge me
Fantastic video. Thank you.
Pull the sway bar linkage instead. Way easier. Also if it breaks it's only a $30 part that can easily be cut off. Also I'm pretty sure you want to do the final torque on the axle nut when the vehicle is on the ground.
You have to remove the start or upper ball joint just removing the sway bar link does not allow u to take axle out
Just a heads up.... I have a 2009 Yukon XL and the nut that goes on the end of the axle was a 36mm.
That's good to know as I'm planning on doing the axle on my Yukon
Super helpful. Thanks so much.
Bro as a mechanic this is legit but... Please stop giving away our secrets! I thought my whole life that my uncle and I were the only ones that knew about that 🔧 trick!! Great video keep em coming!
I get it, but that's extremely selfish Its also one Reason alot if young people are not pursuing the trades. The experienced ones have to teach them things you won't find I tradeschool
Good job! Also I'm doing this right now
Should have read the comments section. Followed these instructions on my 07 cadillac escalade and got to the point of removing the old cv axle. It doesnt fit through the opening he removed his through. Sob time to loosen the strut assembly and do it the right way... after I reattach upper ball joint. My 2015 2500hd is much easier. Unbolt and drop out...
Great video 👍
Great video 👊🏽
Way easier just to pull the strut and the sway bar link. Pops right out.
Like another said here, no need for all that work, simply remove lower strut bolts or sway bar end link to allow clearance of cv axle. It’s even easier on a HD 2500 series gm🤘🏻
Excellent video very helpful. Thanks
Thank you brother
Are the lower control arms stamped or forged? Had to leave my truck in my uncle's pole barn for the night so I can't just go out and check..
Forged most likely, depends on year and off-road or not.
Does it run. Rough during high rpm? Is that one of the symptoms?
I wish! My 08 Silverado struts have to come out
Old comment but I'm doing this right now on my 08, I kept hearing i'd have to take that out but I still dicked around with it lmao I lost that battle
If you remove the shock and stabilizer link it takes half the time....less than 30 minutes per side just remember to put the shock back in before installing bolts into the axle
Thank you for this video I just bought cv axles yesterday and I will do it soon this days I saved your video
Do u have to replace the other side to or no
Only if the other side needs to be changed, but one side needing changed doesn't mean you have to change the other. My driver side just went out on my truck 2 days ago. I'll be changing BOTH only because I don't want to do it 2 different times(like couple months or yr frm now), because I'm over 200K miles and fully expect the other side to go soon. But, no, you don't have to change both at the same time. Other videos showed that you 'have' to remove the strut/shock assembly, so I went ahead and bought new ones, wish I had seen this video earlier so that I could've seen it done without removing the strut/shock. Oh, may as well go ahead and do it. lol.
Thanks for the video AutoRex. Good Stuff
Question: I noticed a shiny area on the sway bar, obviously where the tire has been rubbing. I doubt that the defective CV axle is/was the cause. Might the "wheel hub" also be defective or can a defective axle also cause this wear? Thanks for the excellent video. Out of 3 I have watched, this is now a 3rd different size stated for the axle nut (35. 36 and 37 MM). Will measure the new one in the box that has arrived for my '07 Escalade ESV. In all 3 videos, it is the left CV axle that needed replacement, as is mine as well. I ordered a new hub because my left front wheel is also rubbing.
Tim Adams what did the size end up being for the nut?
15 MM
Oooops, sorry! Make that 25 MM.
Geeeze, I mean 35MM, and checked with my new 35MM "Axle Nut Socket".
Finally have the Escalade on jacks and the front left wheel off. The old nut is also 35MM (good news). But (bad news) the CV axle was not the problem. I can't see anything wrong with the old axle and with no load/weight on the suspension it is not making any noises when rotated. I could have sworn the boot was torn and there was grease leaking out but no evidence of that now. I did pressure wash it off a while ago. (did a good job of it too) BUT, there is about 15 degrees of rotational slop and there is a definite clunk noise inside the differential/transfer case at the end of CW or CCW rotation, not present on the right side axle. There was no play in the hub with the tire still on when checking the left side. When checking the right side hub it does have a little bit of play so the bearings may be getting bad there but that has nothing to do with the howling and grinding that comes from the left front wheel during acceleration. Other Escalade owners: Everything looks about the same as shown in the video except there is an attachment on the upper control arm to a servo on the chassis above for your stabilitrak system. Disconnect this before dropping the control arm or damage will result to the servo or linkage. Whatever is worn out in the transfer case is beyond my shade tree abilities. I suggest replacing the sway links and bushings while you have things up in the air and apart this far. ($40.00 Moog links @ O'Reilleys, much less from Rock Auto) Am doing the brakes on since it's this far along and they're due.
Just loosen lower south bolt and loosen upper control ball joint nut...comes right out
Repair manual calls to lube cv end spline
Good video
Think your best bet was to remove the sway bar bolt...way easier installation...hint hint
I just replaced my upped control arm last year and it refuses to separate from spindle.. both videos I’ve watched so far, my truck is the exception for not working..
Impact with tuning fork pry bar.
BFH to the spindle.
Put the nut on a few thread and hit it with a hammer if that dont work hit it with your wifes
Purse
You made it way more complicated than it needs to be. I changed mine in 20 minutes
where Is your video?
I don’t make vids. After tire is off, undo spline nut and bolts on differential. The joint will then just slip right out👊
He changed it in 16 will videoing and explaining
thank god i found this and see i don't have to removed the strut lol
Awesome!!!!!
You don't have to remove the upper ball joint
Easier to just take the struts.
Just take the strut off and that’s all you need to remove. Axle will come out then
@@davidstavely7272 Yeah, that's what I did.
Shocks and struts are added work! Unnecessary this helps a lot to skip that added step just use force!
@@DiamondDaveCH44 doing one this weekend ive wandered if i needed to remove either myself
David Chapel it’s way less work and bullshit on a rusty truck. Remove or loosen the strut and not mess with anything else the axle still comes right out
Actually wayyyyyy easier if you just take the strut out
Gym trucks so easy to work on
Saved my ass🗣️ && saved me some time
You don’t even need to remove the ball joint to remove the axle
Def torque axle nut with trk on grnd. 36MM? Guy in other vid said 34 MM ah!!! Now I gotta take two 80 lb sockets home from my tools at work!
Where’s a safe space?!? This is no fair my rights are violated!
Seriously though.. anything but the upper ball joint capt mystery ship.
The less Peter tracks on that upper B joint the better. “Why”? Long story but experience for sure
actually, it's 35mm. 100%
Yea I’ve never seen one that wasent 35mm no idea what these videos are talking about
Nice video but you save yourself a lot of time by removing the strut taking the stabilizer bushing out
but then you need an alignment done after messing with the strut...
@@desperate4daylight 🤣🤣 why would you need an alignment after
Why is it always the driver side? This is the 4th time a gm has had this issue for me. Next truck will be a Ram. xD
Raymond Harris Ram has the issues to..cv axles go bad all the time
@@rahrah8076 Well damn... Never had IFS issues on the F250 but I'm not going back to 6L lol
Raymond Harris every make and model has a share of common problems..hard to choose what to get anymore lol
My passenger side....
156k miles on my '07 Sierra Denali and just replaced them when I leveled it - rusty;as hell and cheap on Amazon so wth. But not every truck has that issue "always".
Gmc 2009
good job, another way, could have just take out strut, axle comes right out. don't even need to take tire off. just jack up to get pressure off strut.
How do you replace the inner ujonit
I bent my Control Arm Ball Joint Smfh
This is stupid you could've removed the stabilizer pin it would've came out easier! All you did was made this harder for you!
u r stupid. If it come out without removing - why to do more job and possibly damage/broke something else?
I like this lol
Facts 15min a side just loosen sway bar link and take the top bushing and nut off sway bar link and resr is cake dont even need to take the wheel off
why not just drop the strut way faster less work
Thankyou
A
Easier to take the strut out and not fk with alignment
not WHAT with alignment?
Nazi Grammar pipe it down
A Cadillac "truck"? You mean SUV? Caddy don't make a "truck" - no the Escalade is not a "truck" unless you're mentally deficient or just a Millenial and think "square body" has been used "forEVAH".
I just did this job on my 2008 Escalade EXT on both sides. No need to split the ball joint or completely remove the strut. Trick is to loosen all three strut nuts on the mount under the hood. Back the nuts off so just a few threads are holding them. Then remove the bolts that attach the strut to the bottom A arm. Now you will have the ability to shift the strut back and allow it to drop in the A arm giving you plenty of space to get the axle out. No worries on the load on the strut. It will not spring out. Very easy to put it back in place. I did the driver side first and it took me 3 hours
just because I was trying to avoid messing with the strut. The passenger side took me less than an hour.
Thx God I came across your post because I was gonna take my truck to my mechanic after watching the other vids pulling out ball joints, calipers, bar links, etc. I did the swap today and it took all of 35 min for removal n installation.
What’s the trick for attaching the bottom of strut back to control arm (lower A arm) when there is a leveling block installed?
@@tombrown1032 what’s a leveling block? If you loosen up the three top nuts in the engine bay then it should give you enough wiggle room. I also used a jack to compress the strut to align perfectly on the lower arm
So mess with 4 bolts instead of one 😂
I just did this job on my 2008 Escalade EXT on both sides. No need to split the ball joint or completely remove the strut. Trick is to loosen all three strut nuts on the mount under the hood. Back the nuts off so just a few threads are holding them. Then remove the bolts that attach the strut to the bottom A arm. Now you will have the ability to shift the strut back and allow it to drop in the A arm giving you plenty of space to get the axle out. No worries on the load on the strut. It will not spring out. Very easy to put it back in place. I did the driver side first and it took me 3 hours
just because I was trying to avoid messing with the strut. The passenger side took me less than an hour.
ScarabChris can you replace just the boot?
@@carlostodaygomez7278 Honestly I don't know. But I'm pretty sure you would have to remove the CV axle to do that but if you're going to go that into it you might as well replace the entire assembly. I got my axles on Amazon. I bought re-manufactured OEM axles by "Detroit Axle" so no cheap China knock off. I bought them in 2017 but just got around to replacing them. I think I paid about $100 each for them. I liked that the box came from Detroit with "made in USA" stamped on it..
Thank you
@@ScarabChris Do you think you could link these Detroit cv axles you got? I had also seen that some people have had some complications with aftermarket axles with being too short in length... Did you have this issue? or know how to get them to fit properly?