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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- This video is about changing the Front Brakes/Rotors for a 2007 Lexus GS 350. Should cover 2006-2009 GS350/GS430 and perhaps even the LS430 and LS460 in principle.
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This is my first attempt at the front brakes for this vehicle. First brake job ever! It's also my first video for TH-cam and first time editing a video! So, a bunch of firsts. It's not perfect. The sound is messy, the editing is crude, and I'm not the best mechanic in the world--but I sincerely hope it helps you.
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A few helpful links for you: www.lexuspartsnow.com (where all parts can be purchased at a discount in comparison to the retail price you'll likely pay at the Lexus Parts Dept. at your local Lexus.
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South Main Auto: / @southmainauto This is home to Eric O., or Dr. O. He is my mentor. I started watching Eric in September 2015 and I've watched pretty much every video and many I've watched 2-3 times :). His brake videos are the best I've ever seen. He explains everything he does and has a tremendous ability to teach you and not talk down to you when he does his repairs. He is a wealth of knowledge. Eric, if you read this, thank you.
Here is a link to Eric's Brake Videos (check out all of his videos at the link above): • Playlist . His video entitled "Brake Pad Replacement - A Focus on Brake Hardware" is my personal favorite. A must-watch!!
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As promised, here are papers on brake pad/rotor "Bed-in" procedures, why it's important to bed-in pads to new rotors, and how to do so:
-www.stoptech.co...
-www.centricpart...
-www.stoptech.co...
-www.stoptech.co...
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Parts I Used and Recommend (as of April 2016; As Time Goes On, Upgrades May Become Available):
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43512-30330 DISC, FRONT RIGHT ROTOR
43516-30020 DISC, FRONT LEFT ROTOR
04465-30500 PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE (LEFT & RIGHT SIDE)
04945-30350 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL (LEFT & RIGHT SIDE)
LANG TOOL FOR PISTON COMPRESSION IN 4 PISTON CALIPER
astore.amazon.c... (Eric has an Amazon Store. Please use it. I get no kickbacks. I promise. I just like to help him as he's helped me so much.
Take care all. If you have questions, please let me know. Ill do my best to answer them. Though, I'm not a mechanic. Let that be my only disclaimer :).
One of tge most informative videos ive seen on youtube, easy to listen too and perfect speed
Great work, Man. I have an '09 AWD. Going to replace mine soon. This video helps. Thanks!
Hey man, thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful. I would double-check part numbers for '09 just in case but I'd imagine most of the procedures would be pretty similar from '07 to '09. Good luck to you and thanks again for watching.
I really like your video. A few helpful comments:
1) Read the instructions on the brake cleaner. It says you should not spray it on rubber. So you cannot use the break cleaner to clean the pistons behind the brake pads. You may damage the rubber boots around the cylinders.
2) To get the rotor off, you will notice two screw holes between the lug nut bolts and the center of the rotor. If you insert two metric bolts that match the threads, you will notice you can screw the bolt in about 1/4 inch. Ensure the threads match. Then gently tighten the bolts, a little on each, taking turns, the rotor will pop off fairly easily.
3) You can use a C clamp to squish the break fluid out of the cylinders. I usually do this applying pressure on the center of the old pads, before I remove them. Optionally you can remove the pads first, and clean the dirt away from the pistons, replace the pads, and then squish the fluid from the cylinders.
4) I use a punch pin (from Harbor Freight) similar to the other pin. I insert the regular pin on one side, and the punch on the other side to hold the pads in place while I reinstall the caliper.
5) I don't see how I could do this job without removing the caliper, especially if you are going to turn or replace the rotor.
Thanks for the video!!!
Yeah big No No on brake cleaner on the rubber portion of the caliper. Very toxic chemicals in brake cleaner so have to be careful. It can also damage plastic and your paint if you accidentally spray on those areas of your car.
Hi Adam. Thanks for video, very helpful, gave me lot of trouble less with my brakes. On your part list is missing pin 47735-50020 if anyone need a new one.
Hi Adam, thanks for putting a video up. Not everybody does. Some recommendations for an edit (because everybody's a critic) that would help me and probably others turning in: (1) show us the video of you actually taking the caliper off (this was why I tuned in in the first place), (2) show us the video of how you got the pin out (simple, but still), (3) show us the video of how you got the rotor off (nothing to it, I know this now, but that's the whole point, no?). I'm tuning off at 12:40 because so far all 3 pieces came off with no video of you actually doing it.
Hey Nasir. Thanks for the feedback. Yea, I think I could probably do 100 things better but I did this video sort of last-minute. My father recorded it and I recorded the first side that I did. I probably should have recorded the second side when I had experience with it. I'd make a lot of chsnges. I guess I would hope people would watch a few videos on the subject before tackling the job. I really wanted to show the overall concept of it because the details I provide are not found easily elsewhere. Or weren't at that point. Now there are several videos on single piston caliper setups. Even my idol, Eric O from South Main Auto Repair has a video on a Tundra for its pads and rotors and it's practically the same caliper. I've since redone the job and decided not to record it. I will likely record the next time I do the fronts and backs and will take your advice for sure. I won't turn the Camera off. There is a right way and a wrong way to do most things- like removing the caliper and removing a stubborn (stuck) rotor. So it makes sense. I would recommend watching the rest of the video because I do offer some tips about installation which might address some of your concerns or things you don't know because you didn't finish watching it. Applying lubricant to the pads and shims, for example. You could get brake noise if you don't do this properly. I also try to show more on the assembly. It does sound like you did the job already, but it still might benefit you. I watched 100s of hours of brake videos to get the minutiae understood before I did this job. It's all about the details with brake jobs.
you all probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Watson Esteban Instablaster ;)
@Melvin Rowan Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Melvin Rowan it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account!
Great video Adam. Thank you.
Sure man - no problem! I hope it proves to be helpful to you! If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I am normally better about checking responses. Apologies for the delay. Best of luck to you if you will be attempting this job in the future. Cheers!
When you use Loctite on critical fasteners you have to remember to reduce the torque by about 10%. The Loctite acts as a lube on the brake caliper mounting bolts. There's really no need to put Loctite on the brake caliper mounting bolts, as you should be using brand new OEM bolts which already come with a dry threadlocker. There's a reason OEMs use dry threadlocker on the bolts... So you don't overtorque.
Not sure why people insist on back flushing dirty fluid back up to the master cylinder - if you release the bleeder before the caliper compression the compression is much easier and you purge the cylinders of not only old fluid but, possibly any crap that may come loose during compression.
Agreed. The "Allstar Performance ALL11017 Bleeder Bottle" is perfect for the task; it comes with a check-valve and a magnet. All one needs is a 10mm wrench to open the valve prior to compressing the pistons. However, do not get distracted and forget to close the valve otherwise you'll drain the reserve and the ABS as well, introducing air into the system, forcing one to use Techstream (ver. 12.20.024) software to purge the air from the ABS module [1]. Please, don't ask me how I know; I'm still suffering from PTSD. That cheap no ratcheting "FIVE BANANAS" brake caliper press tool is trash, a tool that can quickly get one into a lot of trouble. I replaced mine with a Lang 279.
[1] "How to Bleed the Brakes on your Toyota Landcruiser using Toyota Techstream | LC200" on the "Jafffa Adventures" channel
Hello this is a good video, but next time can you show underneath the car where your jackpoints are? I have the owners manual but pic is not very clear and very small.
? do i need to take caliber off to change pads if im not changing rotors seems that they just slide in from the back thank you for such a great video it's hard to find videos specific to your car
Very good question. You do not have to remove the caliper from the knuckle if all you wish to do is change the brake pads. That is super easy. Just start the video after I mount the rotors and put the caliper in place and it should give you a good idea of where you need to be. I would clean out the caliper with brake clean. I would also use a good lubricant like the one I used in the video to libricate the pads and shims. If the shims are rusty you will be wise to consider replacing them. You can get numbers for the shim kit in the introduction section of the video. If you have trouble then write me back and I'll grab it for you. It is a 5-10 min job for the pads alone. You'll be laughing when you're done. I'd say spending time on cleaning and lubrication of parts will take up most of your time. One more thing, you will need to compress the pistons as I show in the video, but this will be the only invasive part of the job. The tool I show makes it easy. Go slowly and pull the cap off of the reservoir (as I show you as well) -'d you'll be just fine.
Thanks for the positive feedback in the comments. Much appreciated. Best of luck to you.
Thank you for the video.
Sure thing Carl! Thanks for the feedback! Very much appreciated!
Looks like you put the right rotor on the passenger side. I seen another TH-cam video where the guy puts the right rotor on the drivers side. So which is correct?
In my experience most brake squel comes from the pad material not so much the pads back plate and piston contact
is that real oem brake pads and rotors?
Thanks for such a great video. i will do it myself (exact same car). But I kinda missed out on where have you used the anti-seize. can you please help me with that?
Sure. Thanks for the comments. The anti-seize goes on the hub surface to keep the rotor from sticking to the hub the next time you do the job. If you live in the south this would be less of an issue. If you live up north, then rust will likely lock the rotor to the hub. The anti-seize helps prevent this. Coat all contact surfaces of the hub. Just keep it off the surfaces of the rotor where the brakes make contact as you don't want a lubricant in this area. If you get some on this area, wipe it off with a towel soaked in a little brake clean and you'll be good to go. Best of luck!
Great video but YOU TALK WAY TOO MUCH
where did you get that repair manual? been looking all over for one and cant find one.
Hey Jesse,
I have book 1 of 5 only. I found all 5 volumes but it was about $450-500 and this was too steep for me. So I figured I would buy one at a time. I found them on eBay. Now, I will say that the manual is great but I don’t use it much anymore because I subscribe to Mitchell DIY. It’s great. Not too expensive and for the price of one book in the manual series you can have 4 years of coverage on your vehicle. You get all service information with full wiring diagrams. TSBs. An estimator for labor and parts. It’s great. I buy each vehicle in my family and it’s totally worth it. The manual will never be upgraded. Whereas the Mitchell service will update information as needed. Just thought I’d mention it. Have a great day. Thanks for watching. Thanks for your question
Thank you. I will take a look into it.
Do a video for the back brakes
1) Say please
2) I already did them this past winter out of necessity. I didn't record it as there were issues.
3) Thanks for watching :)
lol you spent more on tools and parts then taking it to a shop lol. Great video though!
Hey David! You know you're not wrong but I look at my tools as investments. I went OEM to ensure I had the best parts for the job. First time going after this particular job so I didn't want to use 3rd party. I've also used the tools on several other jobs and so you have to bite the bullet and think long-term. In the end, I wanted to ensure the job was done properly with techniques I learned from the best--Eric O. Of South Main Auto Repair (definitely check out his channel if you haven't already). Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
I have the 06 gs300 Is it the same process ?
Elgato, I cannot say for sure but I would have a strong feeling that it is. There might be a different pin design or method to hold the plate down on the brake pads. I've seen Toyota use different calipers where one pin was used and others where they use two. Single piece calipers are often pretty similar and I'm sure you could figure it out. Just keep one side together while you disassemble the other side and put it back together. This way you have a reference. I wish I could give you a definite answer but Toyota can throw any caliper on any model at any time. The 2007s even have two periods of manufacture so that you must known which you fall into when ordering parts as it can make a difference. Your VIN would be the best way of finding out. You can use it to find the correct parts for your car. You might even find a factory diagram and know for sure when you see it. The principles should be very similar even if the exact assembly of the caliper is different to a small degree. I apologize if this doesn't give you the comfort of an absolute YES but it is the most honest answer I can give. Best of luck to you if you attempt the replacement yourself. Thanks for the view and the comment.
Omg there's a 5 minute video showing where more useful info on how to change the brakes . This video is super long and he had me thinking I needed to take my caliber off, which I do not! Stupid video
Jerry, thank you for your comment. The title of my video is replacing brakes and rotors. If you can show me a video of ANY length where the brakes and rotors can be replaced without removing the caliper--I will be very impressed. If you search my comments you will see that I told people that the job is probably 5-10 mins if you just do the brakes. It's all in the quality of your work. How clean you get everything, if you add lubricants and use new hardware, etc. You have a lack of understanding of this procedure which you must addresss before attempting this job. I'm sorry to have to say this. Yes my video is long. But this doesn't make it stupid. Have a wonderful day.