Btw on the rotors those holes are for m8x1.25 bolts you put the bolts in there and tighten them it’ll take the rotor out without having to hammer it and risking damaging the the bearing
Thanku… so do i have to squeeze on brakes after each brake pad i change on a wheel or can i change all 4 wheels then do the last steps … brakes and squeezing air out
Sorry I’m not understanding your question fully. The pistons on the caliper usually need to be compressed prior to installing the caliper back on, or do you mean flushing the brake system? If it’s flushing/bleeding the brake system then you can do it at the end after replacing all the pads and rotors you needed to first. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great video. i appreciat only two things i concerned about are better way to remove disk roter without hammering, and plz don't touch brake oil with your fingers.
I suggest bleeding and flushing the system every time but you don’t HAVE/NEED to, you can just change your the pads and rotors and go. These cars are actually my customer’s cars so it’s a must! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Don’t you need to line up the plugged hole on the new rotor with the e brake star adjuster when you put on the new rotor ? Also the old rotor is sticking on one side only and I can’t get it off. Could it be the e brake holding it up?
Why are you putting grease between pads and calliper? There is no sense to do so, because of this dirt and mud will stick to this surface and will make it even worse
Great question, it’s so they can slide around. The unit is not a solid unit, when the caliper compress you want the pads to be able to slide a smidge and the grease helps lubricate it. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Super helpful. Changed mine last night by watching this step by step. Thank you and aloha!
Btw on the rotors those holes are for m8x1.25 bolts you put the bolts in there and tighten them it’ll take the rotor out without having to hammer it and risking damaging the the bearing
That was an excellent video very detailed thank you
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thanku… so do i have to squeeze on brakes after each brake pad i change on a wheel or can i change all 4 wheels then do the last steps … brakes and squeezing air out
Sorry I’m not understanding your question fully. The pistons on the caliper usually need to be compressed prior to installing the caliper back on, or do you mean flushing the brake system? If it’s flushing/bleeding the brake system then you can do it at the end after replacing all the pads and rotors you needed to first. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
What kind of lubricant do you use on the inside of the calipers?
Great video. i appreciat
only two things i concerned about are
better way to remove disk roter without hammering, and plz don't touch brake oil
with your fingers.
Do you have to bleed n flush the system? Can’t just put the break pads on and just drive?
I suggest bleeding and flushing the system every time but you don’t HAVE/NEED to, you can just change your the pads and rotors and go. These cars are actually my customer’s cars so it’s a must! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Don’t you need to line up the plugged hole on the new rotor with the e brake star adjuster when you put on the new rotor ?
Also the old rotor is sticking on one side only and I can’t get it off. Could it be the e brake holding it up?
No and yes.
That lower pin rusts up so bad. They recalled some of them for that reason.
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
mines rusted😢 couldn't get it off... inside pad is worn a bit more..
Why are you putting grease between pads and calliper? There is no sense to do so, because of this dirt and mud will stick to this surface and will make it even worse
Great question, it’s so they can slide around. The unit is not a solid unit, when the caliper compress you want the pads to be able to slide a smidge and the grease helps lubricate it. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
They do slightly move and will squeak if you don’t lubricant them.