Thanks Ryan great to see your working on the bike. Always look forward to seeing your video clips they are very inspirational to me. Good steps forward and looking forward to seeing your side panels painted. Going to look really good when finished.😊👍👍👍
Well done! 👍800 grit sandpaper is very good, 600 is the "normal" one and in most cases good enough - you are on the safe side! 😊 A tip can be to sand "wet". Most of these sandpapers are water resistant (you need to check yours). You dont have to keep the part under water when sanding, just dip the paper in water regularly and use a sponge to clean dust of the part you are sanding. The water will "stick" to the part where you have sanded enough, while it peals off where you have not sanded, so it makes it easy to see when you are done and can move on. It also avoids the sandpaper getting full of dust so it lasts longer, you dont get dust everywhere and if you use hot water your will keep your hands warm 😁When sanding wet, the paper is a bit more aggressive, using 800 is perfect for that. You dont want to sand wet on bare metal, but it works perfectly on plastic parts and on previously painted parts as long as you do not get into the metal (it starts to rust very quickly). Remember to sand the primer as well before the paint, and you should not use old newspapers as cover under them, they release small paper-dust-particles that sticks to the paint. Looking forward to seeing the result! I think you have solved the brake bleeding problem now. This is the way I do it as well, it has always worked. I have never bothered keeping the lever pushed in over night, it has just never been any problem to bleed after the caliper and hose has been filled.
Hi Thank you again for your comments, I had previously used the sandpaper wet on top coat but never when preparing the surface, so I will do this when I move to the rear section. I hope the caliper will bleed now when I can get back outside soon. Ryan
Hi, I've just watched the last video on your channel, Welcome to this madness!! But seriously whilst I have had my problems I hope you enjoy the challenge and I wish you best of luck. Ryan
There are many different methods to bleeding brakes...everyone seems to have their own way. However, I recently rebuilt my Superdream brakes and bled them from dry by doing the following which worked in no time at all. I removed the caliper and cable tied it to the fork in such a way that the bleed nipple was the highest point on the caliper. I then used a clamp to keep resistance on the piston. Then i filled the master cylinder whilst the nipple was closed...tapping the brake line with a spanner all along it starting at the nipple right up to the master cylinder to encourage any air bubbles to dislodge. Then pull the lever right in...keeping pressure on it, and crack open the bleed nipple, only letting a small amount of fluid out and then closing the nipple. Then SLOWLY release the lever back out. Once it's fully out I then pump it 10 or 15 times very quickly. Repeat this process of applying pressure on the lever ...briefly cracking the nipple and nipping it up again ...then slowly releasing the lever. Make sure to not release the lever with the nipple still open at any stage ...as this will draw air in. Once you start to feel a bit of pressure you want to keep repeating the process, but this time try and shut the nipple before the lever bottoms out on the grip...then slowly releasing...pumping it quickly multiple times with the nipple closed ...and repeating. Also make sure that your reservoir doesn't run low at any stage. Tapping the line and caliper with a spanner now and again certainly helps. Once you get an improvement in pressure, refit the caliper and bleed again using the same process. Sounds lengthy, but in reality it works for me in about 15mins. Once you have it bled successfully, you can cable tie the lever back keeping pressure on it over night, then the next day slowly release the lever and you should notice a significant improvement in the firmness. This little cable tie trick was something we used to do on our bikes back when I dabbled a bit at racing short circuits. Hope this helps! Andrew
Hi Andrew, thank you very much for taking the trouble to provide such a comprehensive guide to what worked for you. I'll take a moment to compare your procedure with what I've tried so far to try and understand where they differ to hopefully point me towards to solution. This is very much appreciated. Ryan
Well done for getting out in that cold garage. You might want to flat that primer off wil some 1200 wet and dry used wet. It sometimes shows up imperfections and its a lot easier to correct at the primer stage if it needs it.
I was surprised to see decals came off so easily ,sometimes there's laquer on top ,I like your spraying technique but if can offer one piece of advice it would be to spray edges first 👍
Hi Derek, thank you. When I get to the top coat I will bare that advice in mind. I was also pleasantly surprised the decals didn't put up more of a fight, but they did have to get rather hot before I could get them started. Ryan
@@RyansGarageUK that's ok Ryan I've been using paint for 40years now ,before that I worked at a Honda dealership when the Suoerdreams were all brand new out of the crate ,they were very popular back then 👍
any progress is good progress Ryan, no matter how little time you had - I will look forward to a longer episode next week - are you planning to source oem style decals or are you going to do something different?
Hi Tim, thank you. I'm trying to keep the bike looking pretty close to Factory, so I will be source decals that match the original style. Not sure if they will be OEM or not at this stage (price and availability will determine that) Ryan
Hi Mark, yes I had read that in previous comments, but I can't think how to practically do it. I'll try to find an example online of it being done to see exactly how it's achieved. Thanks Ryan
Thanks Ryan great to see your working on the bike.
Always look forward to seeing your video clips they are very inspirational to me.
Good steps forward and looking forward to seeing your side panels painted.
Going to look really good when finished.😊👍👍👍
Thank you Jim for you support and encouragement. It's appreciated. Ryan
Well done! 👍800 grit sandpaper is very good, 600 is the "normal" one and in most cases good enough - you are on the safe side! 😊 A tip can be to sand "wet". Most of these sandpapers are water resistant (you need to check yours). You dont have to keep the part under water when sanding, just dip the paper in water regularly and use a sponge to clean dust of the part you are sanding. The water will "stick" to the part where you have sanded enough, while it peals off where you have not sanded, so it makes it easy to see when you are done and can move on. It also avoids the sandpaper getting full of dust so it lasts longer, you dont get dust everywhere and if you use hot water your will keep your hands warm 😁When sanding wet, the paper is a bit more aggressive, using 800 is perfect for that. You dont want to sand wet on bare metal, but it works perfectly on plastic parts and on previously painted parts as long as you do not get into the metal (it starts to rust very quickly).
Remember to sand the primer as well before the paint, and you should not use old newspapers as cover under them, they release small paper-dust-particles that sticks to the paint. Looking forward to seeing the result!
I think you have solved the brake bleeding problem now. This is the way I do it as well, it has always worked. I have never bothered keeping the lever pushed in over night, it has just never been any problem to bleed after the caliper and hose has been filled.
Hi Thank you again for your comments, I had previously used the sandpaper wet on top coat but never when preparing the surface, so I will do this when I move to the rear section. I hope the caliper will bleed now when I can get back outside soon. Ryan
Bikes coming on now , i think there’s a few of us learning as you progress , keep up the good work 👍
Thanks 👍
Hi Ryan good to see you back mate your cb250 is starting to take shape keep up the good work 👍
Thank you.
Great job Ryan, loving your rebuild kits of useful tips. You won't guess what I just picked up.
Hi, I've just watched the last video on your channel, Welcome to this madness!! But seriously whilst I have had my problems I hope you enjoy the challenge and I wish you best of luck. Ryan
Doing great so far keep up the good work
Thanks Pete, the end is slowly getting nearer. Ryan
There are many different methods to bleeding brakes...everyone seems to have their own way. However, I recently rebuilt my Superdream brakes and bled them from dry by doing the following which worked in no time at all. I removed the caliper and cable tied it to the fork in such a way that the bleed nipple was the highest point on the caliper. I then used a clamp to keep resistance on the piston. Then i filled the master cylinder whilst the nipple was closed...tapping the brake line with a spanner all along it starting at the nipple right up to the master cylinder to encourage any air bubbles to dislodge. Then pull the lever right in...keeping pressure on it, and crack open the bleed nipple, only letting a small amount of fluid out and then closing the nipple. Then SLOWLY release the lever back out. Once it's fully out I then pump it 10 or 15 times very quickly. Repeat this process of applying pressure on the lever ...briefly cracking the nipple and nipping it up again ...then slowly releasing the lever. Make sure to not release the lever with the nipple still open at any stage ...as this will draw air in. Once you start to feel a bit of pressure you want to keep repeating the process, but this time try and shut the nipple before the lever bottoms out on the grip...then slowly releasing...pumping it quickly multiple times with the nipple closed ...and repeating. Also make sure that your reservoir doesn't run low at any stage. Tapping the line and caliper with a spanner now and again certainly helps. Once you get an improvement in pressure, refit the caliper and bleed again using the same process. Sounds lengthy, but in reality it works for me in about 15mins. Once you have it bled successfully, you can cable tie the lever back keeping pressure on it over night, then the next day slowly release the lever and you should notice a significant improvement in the firmness. This little cable tie trick was something we used to do on our bikes back when I dabbled a bit at racing short circuits. Hope this helps! Andrew
Hi Andrew, thank you very much for taking the trouble to provide such a comprehensive guide to what worked for you. I'll take a moment to compare your procedure with what I've tried so far to try and understand where they differ to hopefully point me towards to solution. This is very much appreciated. Ryan
Keep it up your getting there.
Thanks Andy. Slowly slowly etc.
Well done for getting out in that cold garage. You might want to flat that primer off wil some 1200 wet and dry used wet. It sometimes shows up imperfections and its a lot easier to correct at the primer stage if it needs it.
Thanks Colin, I did expect that I'd need to do something before next coat, so I'll try a gently 1200 and hopefully all will be well. Ryan
I was surprised to see decals came off so easily ,sometimes there's laquer on top ,I like your spraying technique but if can offer one piece of advice it would be to spray edges first 👍
Hi Derek, thank you. When I get to the top coat I will bare that advice in mind. I was also pleasantly surprised the decals didn't put up more of a fight, but they did have to get rather hot before I could get them started. Ryan
@@RyansGarageUK that's ok Ryan I've been using paint for 40years now ,before that I worked at a Honda dealership when the Suoerdreams were all brand new out of the crate ,they were very popular back then 👍
any progress is good progress Ryan, no matter how little time you had - I will look forward to a longer episode next week - are you planning to source oem style decals or are you going to do something different?
Hi Tim, thank you. I'm trying to keep the bike looking pretty close to Factory, so I will be source decals that match the original style. Not sure if they will be OEM or not at this stage (price and availability will determine that) Ryan
Reverse bleeding is your friend. I did it once and never looked back!
Cheers Nat I was trying to understand exactly what I'd need to do that, I guess a syringe which I don't currently have. Ryan
Classic Octane on youtube swears by injecting brake fluid from the caliper up.
Hi Mark, yes I had read that in previous comments, but I can't think how to practically do it. I'll try to find an example online of it being done to see exactly how it's achieved. Thanks Ryan
@@RyansGarageUK he shows it but not the whole process so I've not worked it out either. Traditional method works anyways.