Nice vid man! I had a leakage caused by a bad rear main seal. I fixed it 1 year ago before this video. Even so it is a great video, very informative videos keep up the good work!
When I pulled my flywheel, I rounded a bolt and ended up having to drill the head of it off. When I was reinstalling, I took a 6 point 17mm socket and grinded it down so that the head of my new bolts were flush. I also replaced my main too, I reused my housing and it was a pita to get out. I used a vice with some wood blocks to set the seal flat. Then I took some pliers and put the rubber handle around the seal and then pounded it until it sunk all the way in with a rubber mallet.
Good work as always man. I was curious to see if youd do the housing or just seal. The housing itself is fairly cheap and worth it not fighting the old seal and damaging the housing. I have a old one in the garage right now it seals like it would be a PIA to take out without knicking up the old housing.
Richard Roberti yup, I had the same thought. I initially mentioned just that in my voice over but cut it out since I never actually tried to remove the old seal from the housing.
Would you happen to know the torque specs on that rear main seal cover? I have a 4g69, and I gotta replace the rear main as well. The part number for my rear seal cover matches yours, but mine is off a 06 galant automatic.
Any reason why the rear main seal is only flush? When I installed my new motor I installed it the rear main seal till it was bottomed out. I compared to the old one I took out and it was also bottomed out. Thanks
I was told getting it flush would work. But when i look at my old seal i can see it was just a little deeper (probably bottomed out as you stated) than being flush with the surface. I think either way would work just fine. If i have issues i will report back.
I know this was asked a while ago, but thought I would chime in. Sometimes the crank can develop a little bit of wear from the seal contacting the same area over a long period of time, if you seat the main seal a little further out it will contact a fresh section of the crank and be less likely to leak for longer.
Paul, i drop flywheel during removal, do i need a new one? the back side of it has some blue coloration, clutch was slipping. According to owner clutch was done a while back thus im assuming that clutch was resurfaced, is there a way to tell if a flywheel has been resurfaced?
Julio Lucero I don’t know the specs off hand, but the flywheel thickness should be able to be measured. I have a stock flywheel here that was re-surfaced about 3000 miles ago I could sell if you need. If it’s blue on the back, it probably got really hot at some point and may be warped.
@@BoostedFilms Thanks for getting back Paul, back story on my EVO, bought it a week ago, the owner then mentioned he took the car to the track sometimes and clutch would need to be done. Clutch was slipping but not crazy slipping, it would slip when turbo kicked in (WOT) other than that car ran fine. Flywheel felt fine there was no chatter nor vibration (then again maybe i wasnt able to feel it because disk is worn). Tread on disk is gone but it didnt reach the rivets. In short would i be able to see (eyeball it) if the flywheel is warped?
Julio Lucero sounds like it would be okay, especially if you’re just putting a stock clutch disc back in. I would plan on getting it re-surfaced eitherway. Check for heat cracks, post photos on evolution.net forum and get other people’s opinions if you’d like.
You didnt apply any grease on that seal... you cant install it bone dry.... Its going to wear and leak again. This is a video of exactly what you dont do when installing the seal....
Hello, the service manual suggest applying a small amount of engine oil to the inner part of the seal. I may have put a small amount of oil on the crankshaft before i slide the gasket on, honestly don't remember since it was 3 years ago. With that said, this was done 3 years ago and is still working well. Appreciate the comment, if there was an easy way to update the video I would, until then, hopefully people check out the comments.
Nice vid man! I had a leakage caused by a bad rear main seal. I fixed it 1 year ago before this video. Even so it is a great video, very informative videos keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work👍much love from Greece 😊
When I pulled my flywheel, I rounded a bolt and ended up having to drill the head of it off. When I was reinstalling, I took a 6 point 17mm socket and grinded it down so that the head of my new bolts were flush.
I also replaced my main too, I reused my housing and it was a pita to get out. I used a vice with some wood blocks to set the seal flat. Then I took some pliers and put the rubber handle around the seal and then pounded it until it sunk all the way in with a rubber mallet.
Thanks for the reply. I thought it would be a pain to remove from the old housing, thanks for confirming and letting us know how it can be done.
Yes I also usually hand tighten them down and wait at least 15-25 mins for it to form rubbery, but still sticky then tighten to spec works everytime.
Great vid, very informative as always 👍🏼
Awesome video man, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Good work as always man. I was curious to see if youd do the housing or just seal. The housing itself is fairly cheap and worth it not fighting the old seal and damaging the housing. I have a old one in the garage right now it seals like it would be a PIA to take out without knicking up the old housing.
Richard Roberti yup, I had the same thought. I initially mentioned just that in my voice over but cut it out since I never actually tried to remove the old seal from the housing.
Would you happen to know the torque specs on that rear main seal cover? I have a 4g69, and I gotta replace the rear main as well. The part number for my rear seal cover matches yours, but mine is off a 06 galant automatic.
Very informative
Is this the same process on the lancer with the 4g94? I can't anything on that motor. Just the Evo motor
Mighty fine looking downpipe you got there. LOL
Also, what was your reasoning for replacing the starter plate?
My old one was a bit bent up and a new one was like $20. But yea, didn't really need to since my old one still worked fine.
@@BoostedFilms ohh. Hell for $20 why not. Didn't realize they were so cheap.
Nice thanks !!!🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Any reason why the rear main seal is only flush? When I installed my new motor I installed it the rear main seal till it was bottomed out. I compared to the old one I took out and it was also bottomed out. Thanks
I was told getting it flush would work. But when i look at my old seal i can see it was just a little deeper (probably bottomed out as you stated) than being flush with the surface. I think either way would work just fine. If i have issues i will report back.
I know this was asked a while ago, but thought I would chime in. Sometimes the crank can develop a little bit of wear from the seal contacting the same area over a long period of time, if you seat the main seal a little further out it will contact a fresh section of the crank and be less likely to leak for longer.
You don't put where you got the parts my eclipse is gt and it is hard to find that retainer piece
we get a new clutch ? or Add an ACT monoloc ?
Kae_Productions both. Putting in an exedy twin disc with the monoloc collar
Paul, is it ok to do just the seal without removing plate? (some cars dont have a plate ie Subaru)
Julio Lucero yes. It just might be a bit trickier to remove the old seal and install the new one.
you used permamtex when there is a factory gasket that is supposed to go there!!??
Nah bro both oil pan and seal use rtv
Paul, i drop flywheel during removal, do i need a new one? the back side of it has some blue coloration, clutch was slipping.
According to owner clutch was done a while back thus im assuming that clutch was resurfaced, is there a way to tell if a flywheel has been resurfaced?
Julio Lucero I don’t know the specs off hand, but the flywheel thickness should be able to be measured. I have a stock flywheel here that was re-surfaced about 3000 miles ago I could sell if you need. If it’s blue on the back, it probably got really hot at some point and may be warped.
@@BoostedFilms Thanks for getting back Paul, back story on my EVO, bought it a week ago, the owner then mentioned he took the car to the track sometimes and clutch would need to be done. Clutch was slipping but not crazy slipping, it would slip when turbo kicked in (WOT) other than that car ran fine. Flywheel felt fine there was no chatter nor vibration (then again maybe i wasnt able to feel it because disk is worn). Tread on disk is gone but it didnt reach the rivets. In short would i be able to see (eyeball it) if the flywheel is warped?
Julio Lucero sounds like it would be okay, especially if you’re just putting a stock clutch disc back in. I would plan on getting it re-surfaced eitherway. Check for heat cracks, post photos on evolution.net forum and get other people’s opinions if you’d like.
What are the tq specs?
You didnt apply any grease on that seal... you cant install it bone dry.... Its going to wear and leak again. This is a video of exactly what you dont do when installing the seal....
Hello, the service manual suggest applying a small amount of engine oil to the inner part of the seal. I may have put a small amount of oil on the crankshaft before i slide the gasket on, honestly don't remember since it was 3 years ago. With that said, this was done 3 years ago and is still working well. Appreciate the comment, if there was an easy way to update the video I would, until then, hopefully people check out the comments.
My rear main seal on my Evo V is pissing oil. Gonna have to get the fucking motor out for it :(