Installing an E3D REVO6 in the PRUSA MK3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2022
- The @E3DOnline REVO is really neat. I got to see it first at Formnext in Germany, then RAPID in Chicago. I finally got the REVO6 installed in my years-old @Prusa3D mk3 3d printer. How did it go? Watch and find out :)
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Would love to see prusa integrate this ecosystem with their printers.
Well It actually seems like they did. The XL is supposed to have something similar.
@@MorTyn_Ursa The nextruder nozzle seems similar in that you aren't faffing around with separate nozzle/heater block/heat break, but doesn't seem to have the quick change capability.
Prusa is open source. 3D REVO6 is patented, closed source. These are mutually exclusive.
@@Dust599 open source doesn't mean you can't use patented components off the shelf..
Yes and No. Easier yes, but you would be locked in that ecosystems. Standard nozzles are cheaper and more widely available. Maybe as an Upgrade Kit or as an Option while ordering.
I'm dying waiting for a hardened revo nozzle. I can't wait for them to come out, it will make revo just perfect.
the lack of different nozzles is what made me go with the Hemera over the Evo series
My favorite part of the Revo is the lack of a gap between break and nozzle.. the nozzle swap is not as common for us because we don't print abrasives but that gap has been the reason for clogs/inconsistent extrusion for years!
How far we have come. I came across your channel years ago when Flash Forge was considered state of the art and wanted to make sure I was taking apart the hot end correctly to clear a jam. Soon I'll have a printer with a Revo once I get my Voron 2.4 kit. Can't wait!
This is an incredible system and the micro on the mini is no less incredible. The accuracy of this design is so good, swapping the Revo6 into the MK2.5/MK3s printers requires no first layer calibration after the upgrade nor between nozzle swaps. The other awesome bonus is if you own an MMU unit, this is the final piece to get that to operate reliably!!!! The formed ejected tip comes out absolutely perfect with no stringing to jam up the filament path. I am over the moon with my MK3s and MMU2s now. Yes I did a few other upgrades to the filament path and replace the filament buffer with a new available design to reduce friction to the lowest possible and now with the Revo6 it is 99.9% reliable. Will be running a couple more multi-color prints to validate, but so far it's good. Great buy, especially if you want easy nozzle swapping.
the lack of still missing hardened nozzles is holding me back on this
for smaller nozzles i find it works belter printing 4 of the small items. i think it gives the layers more time to cool
So happy this weekend. for the first time since buying them I seem to have both my Biqu B1 and my Photon Mono printing without fails and looking decent.
You don’t need to remove the filament before removing the installed nozzle. Just set your printer to retract about 15mm after print finished and it’ll be sufficient to easily remove after cooldown.
I’d love to see the micro added to the Mini!
Yep. I'll keep it in mind the next time I have one of many of my MK3s's and (+)'s goes down for part replacement like thermistors and cooling fans and such. Thanks Joel!
Just put together a Prusa mk3s and used the Revo instead in my installation and it went like a breeze, and I’ve never swapped nozzles on a printer so much
I have a Hemera that I did the Revo upgrade to on my Tevo Tornado. It works fine, I have only done a nozzle change a few times. The .8 nozzle is great for vase mode prints.
Great video as always! I recommend adding a few lines of G-code to at the end of the print to retract the filament and then again when you start a new print. That way you can change nozzles after the print without any heating or cooling cycles.
what would chance be that G code?
I've used an 0.25 mm nozzle for prints that are have detail features that are just a bit too small to print with 0.4 mm. Lately, for example, I've been experimenting with designing custom border sprinklers for my backyard that have small details that nevertheless have a significant effect on the spray pattern.
I printed a purple blob monster army for the board game Risk with my 0.25 mm nozzle. I used the SL micro printhead on my TAZ 6. The print times were crazy long, but that's because I used a 0.05 mm layer height for extra detail. They look great!
Great video! Thanks for going through the process Joel! Mahalo for sharing! : )
Great content as always Joel! Thank you!
Many years ago after I've got my first 3D printer a woman who wanted doll furniture ask me to print up some for her. So I found the patterns but my .4 mm nozzle it's too big. Since I'm a machinist I made one that had a .2 mm aperture and it worked out great and the detail was a lot better.
Cool video.... Nice to see you posting more often now... Welcome back! 😍😍
This is a funny coincident cuz I just got my revo in the mail literally today and my printer is a MK3 so this is super helpful
Loved the video Joel, just ordered a Revo6 for my MK3S. First "aftermarket" upgrade for my Prusa
Awesome!
I like the quick nozzle change on my FFA-3, Its just so easy and fast, so when I saw the Revo nozzle's I knew I needed one for my Voxelab, I have just fitted the micro swiss bowden dual gear extruder and the Revo is next.
I use the 0.6 on my Prusa Mini and it is flawlessly! I’m looking forward to using the other two on the printer
Love it. Ive been playing with the Revo for a couple months on my Mini and I will say that Quantum PLA doesn't seem to like the 0.25 nozzle much (it seems to print easiest on the 0.6) and that's probably the reason behind the stringing.
Awesome video, thanks!
Wauwie thats very Nice Joel I received my revo six today and am going to build it in my Prusa Mk3 S+ kit
Like others, I installed the Revo when I assembled my MK3S+ two months ago. I also changed the thermistor connector on the end to use the same style as the normal Prusa connector, so that it doesn't come loose inside the electronics case (which others have complained about on Reddit),
They also have revo .15 nozzle now, im in process in putting on a hemera revo on my printer had a clone bontech direct drive and used a .1 nozzle to print a 25% benchy really tiny .05 layer height
I wish I'd seen you did this before I replaced mine. Nice to see how before you try.
Yeah changing the hot end on the MK3 was a pain. Really happy with the later design changes. $50 for the upgrade was pretty easy to swallow anyway. The MK3S+ still uses the Nylon on the E axis the other axis not anymore.
He Joel im from good old germany and bought a Revo V6 and love your content. well i have something you might want to look at. Im printing with the Prusa MK3S and MMU2. I allways had the problems when i wanted to print multi colors. but now with the revo it works! just unbeliveble!
Love the Video Sad to miss you at TCT 360 UK
Love 0.25mm for printing texts or other stuff with fine lines, since you can do a lower extrusion width.
I did this upgrade on the office MK3 because I don't trust myself to correctly install a V6 style nozzle without ending up with leaks down the line. That and hot tightening sucks.
The local supply shop started carrying the Revo series, and they mistakenly sent me a Mini rather than a Revo6. It's cool, mistakes happen, and they made the exchange without any problems.
The best part of this is that I didn't need to reprint the extruder housing. Yeah, there are inline connectors for the wiring, but that's it, and they didn't interfere with the harness as much as I feared. I only needed to modify the PTFE tube, and that was quite easy.
I don't see myself swapping nozzles like crazy, but the ability to swap a nozzle for any reason when the printer is cold is well worth the upgrade.
Love my REVO 6... takes the MK3 to another level
Hey Joel, great video. Thanks. Did you do any Live Z or XYZ Calibration after the swap?
Getting ready to make the swap. I just had the threads pull out on my Prusa. Just had started a print and the heater block came loose from the heatbreak. I currently printing some conductive ABS but as soon as that's done I'm putting on the REVO.
I use a chimera with a 0.6 and 0.3, 0.6 for high speed, and 0.3 for fine details. Mechanical parts also are quite nice with 0.3, and you can push 0.3 to print like a 0.4.
I have a 0.2 on my Monoprice Select Mini Pro. I use it for super detailed stuff. I'd suggest a 0.08mm layer height with a 0.12mm initial layer to start. Can fine-tune from there. Be ready for super long prints though. But they turn out as close as you can get to resin with FDM.
Looking forward to getting the Revo 0.15!! nozzle.
I use a 0.25 mm nozzle for detail oriented prints like logos and names. You can make some really cool and detailed name tags and maker coins with them! Other cases are for the 0.05/0.07 mm resolution when I want to absolute best dimensional accuracy on a part.
Be careful though, the prints take substantially longer and it’s pretty easy to clog a V6 one.
Agree 100%. When I tried to print a Harry Potter wand stand, the text on the engraved plate was nearly unreadable with a 0.4. You could even see the issue in the slicer, as it wouldn't move the nozzle into some of the tighter areas, creating filament gaps between the text. As soon as I reconfigured the slicer for a 0.25 nozzle, the slicer results dramatically improved, and the resulting print was near perfect. I think text is the #1 use case for a detail nozzle, as any print imperfections catch your eye immediately.
My hope is that the Prusa XL with multi-tools will allow for different sized nozzles in the same print. Could be the best of both worlds, fast printing with amazing detail where you need it.
Revo is just awesome, i still use my last beta one (a mini revo) with the .4mm nozzle, if you retract you filament enough when you finish your print, you can even swap nozzle without even removing filament :D
How much retraction is needed on end code? And are there needed to adjust start code or those the purge line fill it back in if your not switching filament?
@@oleost i only use 5mm retraction on my end gcode, and of course, i "extrude" it before the purge in my start gcode. more can be useful, cold filament tends to stick well to the inside of the nozzle but i managed to change it a few times like this ( i don't change nozzles often).
i just started using a .2 mm nozzle and .05 layer height for busts lately and they look so good I'll tag you in a chucky I did on tweeter haha
Home automation folk’s 3D Printing Nerd is willing to consider doing some home automation videos. I suggest you get ahold of the Nerd and send him some of your products for evaluation.
Great job on this video as always.
I’ve got a cool ideaR for ya. On back wall panel. Looks like flooring or something like that. Put rgb lights in between the panels. Or something like that
I use a 0.25 Nozze for printing jewelery and in general small stuff. But I used a Mosquito Magnum Hotend on my MK3S+ not so easy maybe as swapping nozzles on the revo but with the mosquito I could still use my Nozzle X hardened steel nozzles and I can change nozzles with one hand as well and even cooled down nozzles
Great video Joel. I love the project videos! I've been 3D printing for about 15 years, and really hoped that by this time, you could run a 3D printer without learning to be a 3D printer repair man, but that is not the case quite yet. When I started, I don't think TH-cam even existed. Videos like these are so helpful. High-5!
At TCT E3D said when using the 0.15mm Nozzle ASA or PETG seems to be better to print with Versus PLA as the higher temps make it easier to flow and its a more pure filament verus PLA
I really prefer to use allen bits instead of allen keys. So much nicer to have a proper screwdriver handle to turn when dealing with that. For smaller parts, an iFixit tookit is fantastic. I used it to install my own Revo in my MK3 and it is printing like a champ. With a MK3S+ the instructions were golden and it was quite easy to do. I used two zip ties and hung the stepper motor from the rails via a screw hole on that, and the same with the cooling fan. Just to make sure to support them so they didn't hang off wires. The worst part was probably putting the darned sleeve back on, fiddly especially to clamp it down at the electronics box.
Claire is lovely met her at this years TcT proper down to earth for a VIP
they have a 0.15 nozzle coming pink and massive ones 2.5 crazy sizes
Joel - you asked for feedback about smaller-nozzle prints - Stefan, did a benchie with a 0.1mm nozzle that came out a size comparable to a grain of rice! It was about 7 months ago. (Edit: if you search for 0.1mm nozzle it should be the first result listed.)
As for the Revo system... cool concept, but I would prefer an all metal 1 to 1 that uses PTFE.
I print 48 pitch RC car transmission gears out of Polymaker CF-PA6 with a 0.25mm V6 Nozzle-X
I print leather stamps, use the small nozzle to get the intricate details
i prefer the smaller nozzles usually using .2 or .3 just for the finer detail.. it doesn't necessarily have to be small prints... larger prints just take longer but the detail improvement is noticeable. My question though is when you first installed the revo and first nozzle, did you have to do any nozzle height adjustments or z offsets for probes???? or did you just thread it in and just hit print?
looked around what is the difference between the micro and the REVO6 is it just the size of it and what printers it fits into? I saw the spec page and all that I could see was that the micro has the holes to mount to the ender 3 line of printers .... Edit i re-watched the video and saw he said at the end I would love for you to put it on the ender 3 and see that
Micro goes on the Prusa Mini, since you have the Revo6 on the MK3S :D
could you please do a video on your print farm? that would be really fun!
Add a 10 mm retraction to your gcode and then you can change nozzles without pulling the filament. Increase your intro line to account for the retraction.
I've never swapped my nozzle, although I do have a pack of different sizes. I didn't know about complexity with actually changing it, just that it has to be hot. I was concerned more with the adjustments to the temperature during printing with a different size than I'm used to.
I swapped my nozzle for a Nozzle X on my MK3; it was my first nozzle swap. I thought I had done everything by the numbers, though it was a major pain in my ass trying to do it without even being able to see what was going on, I found it impossible to get any leverage or comfortable grips trying to see what I was doing. Maybe there's a better way, like flipping the printer over or something but I tried doing it in place. Basically, a horrible experience in every way, and I was afraid of snapping the thermistor wires and such that were right there and in the way. But, I did it, tightened the nozzle down, and did a print and it went great. By the second or third print, it was shitting big blobs of burnt plastic onto my prints... I failed, and left a small gap between the nozzle and the heat break. The whole experience sucked in every way imaginable. I swapped in a Revo just the other week and MAN what an upgrade. You can't fail the swaps, leaks are borderline impossible, and it's all done cold, not at 250 degrees.
Why didn't you upgrade to MK3S since you already had it all apart?
Great build. I use 0.25 for printing small gaming minis. Heroes and bosses I print in SLA, but 0.25 was life changing until I got my first resin printer.
I would love to see a revo and hemera install on an artillery sidewinder x2.
I'm definitely interested in the Revo system, and wouldn't mind having one on my Ender-5 Pro - but I've already got a MicroSwiss direct drive on there, and I don't want to replace my entire extruder setup. So I'm waiting for someone to come up with a mod that would let me squeeze a Revo into a MicroSwiss. :)
Or, more likely, waiting for my next catastrophic hot end failure, when I might be willing to replace the whole thing with a more reliable setup.
Any update on a steel nozzle for the revo? Great video by the way
Install the Revo micro on the Prusa mini!
What a nice extension! I use my ender s1 in 0,1 mm nozzle for making high detail tolls and gaming cars prototypes, it take time but it scary how good it print and the details is like a 5axel cnc 🤌
I print panels with small text illuminated from behind. I use a MMU to have different colors. Voron 2.4 with ERCF.
Nice, how do you like the ERCF? I heard the Revo hotend makes more consistent filament tips when unloading.
Awesome video. Do you have to change z-offset every time you change the nozzle?
High Five ✋️
Hey! I did make small adjustments on the first print with the new size. But not by much.
Hi Joel, great video! Thanks!
Could you please teach me how to create the Timelapse video like yours? 🤩
Would this work on the Mk2s/Mk2.5s as well.
I want to see a revo on the Artemis, There might be a minor change considering the SE300 effector PCB might not accept it directly. Also the part cooling fans might not be the right height.
A core xy because getting tools on there are sometimes difficult or annoying. A "quick change" nozzle would be awesome. I might look at putting one on my ratrig
It's difficult and annoying on a Prusa too. I never want to have to do that again. I've been eying a Ratrig myself as my next build, and it would absolutely have a Revo on there, never going to willingly use an old style nozzle again.
@@extectic currently I'm using different hotends for all my printers bar my chirons which have v6s that might be super easy to change to revos. I am definitely considering changing over to these across the board purely for equality and interchangeability. Granted I don't swap nozzles too often aa most of the stuff I print is either detailed or large which I have machines specifically setup for certain jobs.
Joel. Thanks for being Joel. How do you like the new summer RedBull flavor? I'm a fan.
Would love to see PRUSASCLICER build in nozzle size changes during a print (the same way you would manually change filament colours but change nozzle sizes) this would allow you to print fast and heavy on the bottom of a print, then switch to a small nozzle to add fine details or words or logos to the top of a print… just a thought…high 5
I have returned the unit to Amazon and back to the latest version of PRUSA SLICER.
I like the idea of 'easy-nozzle-changes' but I think E3D really missed the Boat on the REV06.., maybe if they worked with Slice Engineering to incorporate their Copper-Head Heat-Brake- then the PTFE would NOT be against the nozzle and you could actually print above 240 Celsius!
Even though I find it much easier to change a nozzle, it’s still annoying. So getting rid of being annoying is a win for me already. :)
I would like to see the mini installed on an FLSUN Q5
PTFE tube and extra wire are hidden in the bottom of the box. I missed it the first time I looked at it.
Hiya! Could you share the file for the extruder “entry” funnel? How about that side fan? Love the mods!
Here is the are the directions from E3D "Prusa released a new firmware 10/01/23 that has the potential to cause temperature issues with the Revo Six, Please refrain from upgrading for the time being until we can verify stability."
Seems like a lot of work for the only benefit being it's easier to change nozzles. Is there something else I'm missing?
What days are the livestreams usually?
May I ask what “feet” you have mounted on your Mk3?
Wobbly feet!
meaning: some vibrations that may turn up into a resonance problem...too much vibrations and disturb the precision, intrinsic one, has been absorbed.
Basically are shock absorbers
I printed a small a a bicycle with spokes, a chain and gears.
I know this video is a couple years old. Was just curious what X carriage you were using as that doesn't appear to be the stock one from the MK3s.
The carriage on this was the mk3, NOT the s!
@@3DPrintingNerd Thank you!
Does E3D make a hardened nozzle for the REVO Six?
It’s due to be released in the coming months.
It's called Revo Obxidian (there are also Obxidian nozzles for the old style V6 in the works). A multi-material nozzle with a hardened core with a lot of anti stick and diamond like coating stuff going on, with a lot of copper or brass around it, I think. They just auctioned off the first ever set to go to private party last night as part of their Sanjay foundation charity; over £1200 for a set of four... either way, they're clearly manufacturing some, so can't be too long before they hit the market. I can't wait.
Can you do a video on how to install it on an Ender 3 pro
I upgraded my nozzle on my original Mk3 to a hardened one, used the hardenedness a couple times and haven't since. I am waiting for something major to happen to the hotend to so I can legitimately "fix it" but the bugger just will not die 5 years on. That said, you did not make that look easy, I'll probably just keep ramming a 1.5mm allen key down to clear clogs for a while :) That also said, I've never used anything other than a 0.4mm nozzle... Probably should size up for the hydroponic planters though. Thanks for the video and entertainment :)
just incase you did not know you can replace the battery in your digital calipers. I just changed the battery in mine. I have the General Ultratech Digital caliper.
The black trapezoidal nuts on the z axis lead screws are upsidedown. You are loosing print height and risking crashing into the z axis rod supports
I didnt understand the comment about the pfte tube nor what Joel did it to fix the length?
I felt your comments on traditional nozzle charging were quite measured/guarded. I’d love to see you do a conventional nozzle change to see what you mean. Maybe you have that video already? Useful for the majority of users that don’t have a Revo.
My personal (hot) take is that removing the fan is a semi-optional step, and that the thermistor wires really look vulnerable to damage while scrabbling with the nozzle and a hot end.
I got a 1.5Nm torque to put nozzles in, but now I’m scared that if I’m not in the Goldilocks zone I’ll either leak filament into difficult to reach places or crack the heat brake. Prusa docs don’t help quell that fear with all the warnings about the hot end.
I've done exactly one normal V6 nozzle swap, and it failed. It printed after that and it was almost right, but I left a tiny gap even though I thought I got it right, so it started shitting burnt plastic blobs onto my prints. Old style nozzles are awful. I never want to go there again.
@@extectic Fear+1 - Joel is so casual about it now he's "learnt". I want to see him stumble through the change like us normies.
My current plan (as I have some E3D nozzles I don't want to waste) is to try, and if I fail, replace the entire thing with a Revo. Grudgingly moaning as I do.
I'm quite sure those trapezoid nuts must be flipped 180°, with the flat side showing up ^^
The cards for all of the 'tools' made me snort my caffeinated beverage.
Still waiting for a Creality compatible Revo that they've been hinting at, teasing, suggesting was "coming soon (tm)", etc etc etc...
Not yet compatible with MK3.5 - well, actually works completely fine but pid tuning is not available on the 3.5 and thus self testing fails, nothing terrible but printer asks to finish calibration every time you boot or start a print. Anyone have any info if this will be addressed? thank you!
after a week of printing I am seeing some anomalies when printing so I think with my limited knowledge that pid tuning could probably address this?
I mostly use my 0.25 for higher detail, though my makercoin has some very small detail that I needed it for, I have one for you if you will be at MRRF
No Z cal? Brave!
Can it be named Prusa MK3s-R?