Yamaha Star 650 Carburetor Test & Adjustments - Floats, TPS, Heaters, Solenoids, PMS, Leaks Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Today begins the first in a two part series where we go into specific detain with regard to specific testing of the Star 650 carburetor and its components to ensure that it is working within operating parameters. This is not a rebuild video. I have made those already. This could be considered a post rebuild exercise to determine good working order before installation. Another thing to consider is the screws that had to be torn up in order to take the carb apart. The original screws are terrible!!!
The first task is a trip to Ace Hardware where the original screws will be swapped out for better quality hex screws for both the carb and the air box and associated housing. Though not exhaustive I came up with:
2X M4 .70x20
2X M4 .70x25
2X M4 .80x10
2X M4 .80x12
2X M4 .70x14
8x M4 .70x various
These are swapped out on the carbs, pipes and airbox before I continue.
All of the required parts and tools are gathered for this project before we begin, its better than stopping to hunt for stuff mid-test. Amongst these would also be a rebuild kit.
The first test will be blowing air into the fuel line and turning the carbs over to see if it is blocked. A failure of this test would mean immediate attention to the float needles and or seats to resolve this issue. Though fine here we assume everything fails and replace everything later.
Next, the bowl is marked for the positions where the fuel level should be using the calipers and a razor blade to leave light marks as demonstrated. That would be 8mm below the line. and .5mm above and below that line.
Its worth pointing out that the carbs are not level in the bike when the bike is level, they are cantered to the low side 13 degrees, so a structure is assembled to pitch the carbs 13 degrees for the level testing. This is critical. With the carbs in position we set up the second test which is the hose and funnel on a scaffold filled with gas to see if the level holds. This proves out the float needles as liquid tight.
With that next test passed, we move to the float level hight test. using the translucent hose the bowl drain is opened to reveal the level within the carb. Mine are adjusted higher, but demonstrates how the position can be measured. I conduct this on both carbs. We can see the level on mine are the same on both.
In the next video, the float adjustments will be done as well as all of the fixes, repairs and testing of the carbs to address all possible issues.
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Just wanted to say thank you so much for your videos. I knew nothing about carburetors but got my motorcycle working good as new following your guide.
Glad to help
Great video, very detailed no nonsense approach. Love your work!
Much appreciated!
Really great set of videos. Has helped my son and I dig into his carbs. Your write-up for this video lists the cap screw inventory you purchased, but it is different from the video. For instance, you have listed "2x M4 .80x12." The video indicates "4x M5 .80x12," which I'm pretty sure is correct. There are a few other discrepancies, as well. We started to use the list in your write-up, which we appreciated, but I noticed something wasn't right when I saw an M4 with a .80 pitch.
Its possible that there might be differences between years and models. You will note in the video, that I brought each and every old screw with me for comparison on-site at the store for measurement to ensure accuracy.
@@jima3129 might be a good idea as it saves some time and having to remember where each screw came from
I have essence of oil in my carbs. What could cause that?
Hi I was trying to tune my fully stock 03 vstar 650 bye chance do you kno around about how many turns out the air fuel screws are stock? The previous owner had adjusted them for some reason.
Great idea having a rebuild kit on hand. Buying one online today🍺
Right on
Hey would you happen to know why fuel leaked out of my air filter box ? It’s a hypercharger air cleaner
I haven’t started my Yamaha v star 1999 in 8 months maybe more
Float stuck… probably from sitting 8 months maybe more
Celebrity Rob: I had no Idea you worked on the VStars. I can loan you my 06 if you want to make more videos on it. The stock screws really do suck and when I had mine apart last time I thought about replacing them but didn’t. The 1100 is the same deal. Good vid!
Yeah, I have an 1100 and a 650.
Great advice!!!
Glad you think so!
great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, I need a fuel cut-off solenoid for my vstar front carb, are the both the same or which one would I need?
they are the same.
@@retrotechandelectronics Thank you, that is very helpful.
I bought a 2000 vstar 650 and the choke arm does not work at the carb. Any ideas'?
Its a mechanical enrichner, if its binding somethings wrong, the carb should come out for closer inspection.
I took the carbs out as you did and cleaned as you did and sync carbs I accelerate wot way better than before Idle way better than before I just bought this bike and your knowledge if amazing I've looked for hours before and after this rebuild kit I have a issue while Cruising it sputters 20000 miles like low high gears low rpms. New fuel filter readjusted valves intake and exhaust new petcock it was clogged new intake boots they were cracked badly carb was out of sync bad I did not mess with the idle screw idk I feel like this information of cruising high gear low rpms should narrow this down I don't want to do it as it took me probably 9 hours to do this all just not idle screws
If I just drained the bowls. Would I still need to adjust float height or add fuel? This is assuming if the carb is still in the bike
No, not if you didnt bend or maladjust them
Great video, very well explained. Thank you, much appreciated.
Just a couple of questions if you have time; do you know why there are 2 drain plugs on each carb and whether it would make any difference if I use one versus the other to check the float adjustment?
How do you set the carburetor for a single carb
I have Yamaha Drag Star 650. And i think that you may have set the wrong fuel level in the float chamber.
In the manual, it is recommended to use (fuel level gauge YM 01312) a tube with a length of 44 cm and a outer diameter of 8mm.
After loosen the drain screw some of the fuel from the float chamber flows into the long tube and the level in the float chamber should fall below the mark of 7.5-8.5mm. It is not specified in manual that you need to pump gasoline with a gas pump or keep the engine is turned on while make fuel level measurements.
Without triggering the gas pump, the fuel level in the float chamber will not be raised while we make fuel level measurements, which means that the level before loosen drain screw must be higher than after fuel level gauge fills.
May be exactly at the level of float chamber line. I'm not sure.
Like you, I used the shortest possible tube. The short tube holds much less gasoline and the level in chamber at the time of measurement falls a little. So I make the fuel level too low by using a short tube. Fuel level i reduced to 6.5 mm below the mark, its minimum. The float is already at the bottom of the chamber, partially closing the needle valve. I don't think it's right.
I have an assumption that the fuel level in the float chamber should be exactly at the level with the mark line, and the difference of 8 mm occurs precisely as a result of the flow of fuel into the measuring tube during measurement.
My bike is in the same setup as yours and it doesn't work correctly. A strong dip when the throttle handle is turned sharply.
You may use the gauge called out if you wish. I do not check the level in the bike as you see. If you do, you must disconnect from the fuel system and use a funnel for gas into the carbs directly or you will have the problem you had pointed out. I do mine on the bench as shown.
@@retrotechandelectronics Thanks for the answer. Maybe you are right, I am not an expert and I am often mistaken. But Yamaha Drag Star 650 manual says:
Place the motorcycle on the level surface
Put the motorcycle on the situable stand to ensure that the carburetor assembly is positioned vertically
Connect the fuel level gauge to the drain pipe
loosen the drain screw
hold the gauge vertically next to the float chamber line
Measure the fuel level with the gauge
If the fuel level is incorrect, adjust it
...
Check the fuel level again
Nowhere in the instructions is there a point about disconnecting the carburetors from the motorcycle fuel system and using an external source of fuel. And this is exactly what changes the situation with level measurement radically. And I noticed that you also failed to get the fuel level 8mm below the line. The float cannot be lowered lower, it begins to close the needle valve even on an empty float chamber. For me this is a signal to doubt
It seems to me that the line on the carburetor is the fuel level required for it, and 8mm down is due to the level drop during the measurement, taking into account the use of a tube of this particular length. I will not impose my opinion, I just really would like to find more detailed instructions from the manufacturer or logical arguments that will convincingly prove the opposite to me.
Awesome video bro. I've seen a few of yours and they're top notch so far. I have a vstar 1100 and was wondering if you have a video on that, showing how to adjust the floats. I just did a complete over haul on my vtwin carbs. Took me about 100 times pulling on and off to finish get it to where I can get on the road go over 35mph and be confident it won't cut off at the stop signs. There's only 1 problem, I have to turn throttle about 50% to get any real power but when it finally takes off it TAKES OFF sounds awesome!!! But.... If I'm barely turning throttle sound like it's starving for gas or something could this be a float issue I'm asking myself or maybe the air/gas screw. I kinda just either want to leave it alone, but worried about damaging motor or Tran since I have to get it up to do much rpm, or just take it in to the shop. But I've come this far it idles fine low rpm
Did you figure it out
How do you adjust the TPS??
I do have a video with TPS setup.
Posso fazer teste com água ao invés de combustível ?
Eu evitaria usar água. Se eu tivesse que apenas água destilada e secar ao ar.
Cont-- low rpm it's starving for something I'm thinking gas high rpm it's roaring like a lion and picking up speed so good. I know I can fix this myself just need a little guidance
I do have a series for the 1100
Great video. Super informative, but you may want to update the list of screws in the description. The quantiies and sizes are wrong on a couple of them (3rd and 4th say 2 x M4 but should be 4 x M5).
Best left to the a pro
.
I really didn't want to watch a video full of you screwing the screws.
Were you looking for a screw free carb?
@@retrotechandelectronics lol. Thanks for responding, I'm on lunch welding a floating stair case in the Tulsa museum. I needed the laughter. You actually do a good job. Testimony Michael cisneros appreciates. I'm rebuilding the carb on a 650 Yamaha 2007. My first one, while first bike. Thanks once again.
@@MichaelCisneros-wz2mj you’re welcome.
@@retrotechandelectronicson the main jet carb the left one has a tube with a hole. Which side does that hole have to face??