fun fact for the future. I have that same Mustang Seat and you can pull the nose of the seat back and get the tank off without removing the rider/ passenger seats. Unlike the factory seat, the Mustang seat pan doesn't go all the way to the very front so you can pull the padding back and remove the tank without removing the seats.
@@gnjadventures no worries! I haven't finished watching the video yet so I don't know if you needed to do that for the purpose of routing wires. But I saw your pulling the seats and thought I'd add that in.
Hey Buddy, I cant tell you how much this video helped me. I am not a new rider but learning to do all the wrenching myself. One thing the last owner did was used phillips screws on the pickup coil mount. STUPID!! Stripped both and the bracket to hold the wires down. Had to vice grip two of them out and broke the head off of one of them. Drilled it out with an M5 and rethreaded with an M6 tap. So far so good. Thank you!
Hey Buddy, thank you the encouragement. Much appreciated. These bikes are really pretty easy to work on. I am planning on making a video on replacing the headlight bulb, but (like you found out) used a very soft slotted screw and it rounded off. It’s recessed so I can’t get vice grips. Will need to drill and maybe get an easy out to remove it. Or. Heli-coil here I come. I’ll probably add the drilling out part and showing what not to do. lol. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned for more.
That’s an excellent point. It’s been years since I changed the first stator and I do remember the screws were a bear to loosen. Thanks for the comment.
@@tankeroftheeast105 they are also JIS not standard Phillips head. Vessel makes a nice set of JIS screw drivers. The larger ones are actually impact drivers so you can strike them and they rotate 12⁰ to break things free.
@@gnjadventures my apologies Sir. I don't know what happened to my phone. I typed useful and just now I saw useless. My phone auto correct function is very annoying. I'm going to edit now. I been looking for this video and I found this one the most useful. I'm really sorry for the typo mistake. I feel embarrassed
Thank you for your understanding. I have a question. My pulser coil or the pick-up coil got bad and the bike cranked but didn't start. I found a few cheap replacement coil like $30-50 part but the oe would cost $150. OE comes with the wire and connector but aftermarket coils have cable only. Can I use the after market one and solder the wire inside the cover. Also what kind of seal should I use to put the cover back? Thank you
Hey, me again😁, I would like to know if you tested the stator before installing, if you had any problems with this aftermarket part? I don't want to spend $350 on the OEM part, but I also don't want to have to do the same service twice. Thank you Sir
Hey hey, good to hear from you again. I didn’t check the stator. I DID make the mistake and ordered a stator not realizing it was for a 1999-2003 and mine is an 05. So I had to replace. Not sure what the difference was other than the plugs were different, but the bike would barely start.
No spark. Just continued to crank. Test your ignition coils under the tank. Ohms resistance should be 3.6 to 4.8 ohm at about 68 degrees. Would be slightly higher is hot weather like 3.8-5.0 maybe. As long as you’re within that range the coils are good. I smoked my regulator on the front of the frame by jump starting the bike from a running car. Lesson learned.
If your ignition coil ohms at 3.8 to 4.5 or 4.6 (going by memory, your coil back is good. I would check fuses, but if the coil is good, I would check into changing the stator. When the original stator failed, the bike was getting harder and harder to start.
Not anything I can think of, but if you have no spark, I would check the ignition coils. Should ohm around 3.8 to 4.6 (going by memory) at about 70 degrees. The ignition coils are under the tank. Make sure to unplug them when testing. On a side note, I ruined my regulator rectifier (the heat sink item on the front of the frame behind the front tire) by jumping the bike from a running car. Was told the cars voltage was too high. Not sure if that was true, but it wouldn’t start after that. I changed the rectifier and it ran. I’ll try to make a video of testing the ignition coils and regulator rectifier
@susanwillis1143, I did not. My friend that rides motorcross suggested using Yamabond 4. I was skeptical, but he said put a light coating on both surfaces and reassemble. 350 miles later in 90+ degree heat and no leaks. Seems to have worked.
@@gnjadventures After multiple gaskets and all that oil leaking out (again!) I found your video, and this comment of yours mentioning Yamabond 4. Now I have no gasket installed, and no leak present. Why did no one tell me of this magical substance before?
@@retromash62I had the same issue. Leak after leak. My manager who races motor cross on the weekends told me about Yamabond. Wow. I love it. Glad it helped you. Thanks for the comment.
fun fact for the future. I have that same Mustang Seat and you can pull the nose of the seat back and get the tank off without removing the rider/ passenger seats. Unlike the factory seat, the Mustang seat pan doesn't go all the way to the very front so you can pull the padding back and remove the tank without removing the seats.
@s.sullivan5299. Thanks for the tip, that is a very helpful suggestion.
@@gnjadventures no worries! I haven't finished watching the video yet so I don't know if you needed to do that for the purpose of routing wires. But I saw your pulling the seats and thought I'd add that in.
Hey Buddy, I cant tell you how much this video helped me. I am not a new rider but learning to do all the wrenching myself. One thing the last owner did was used phillips screws on the pickup coil mount. STUPID!! Stripped both and the bracket to hold the wires down. Had to vice grip two of them out and broke the head off of one of them. Drilled it out with an M5 and rethreaded with an M6 tap. So far so good. Thank you!
Hey Buddy, thank you the encouragement. Much appreciated. These bikes are really pretty easy to work on. I am planning on making a video on replacing the headlight bulb, but (like you found out) used a very soft slotted screw and it rounded off. It’s recessed so I can’t get vice grips. Will need to drill and maybe get an easy out to remove it. Or. Heli-coil here I come. I’ll probably add the drilling out part and showing what not to do. lol. Thanks for watching. Stay tuned for more.
Great video!
Attention to detail probably the best I’ve seen within the “TH-cam Mechanic” genere.
Cheers!
Thank you. Much appreciated
The best video I saw on TH-cam, thank you sir.
Thank you very much. Very much appreciated.
I WATCHED 7 VIDEOS NOT ONE WAS AS DETAILED AS THIS ONE ALL THE OTHERS LEFT ME SCATCHING MY HEAD
Thank you. I appreciate that. I am going to make a video on checking the ignition coils soon.
FYI: I think stock the screws that hold the pickup coil and stator are Phillips head, and have a nasty amount of loctite on them
That’s an excellent point. It’s been years since I changed the first stator and I do remember the screws were a bear to loosen. Thanks for the comment.
@@tankeroftheeast105 they are also JIS not standard Phillips head. Vessel makes a nice set of JIS screw drivers. The larger ones are actually impact drivers so you can strike them and they rotate 12⁰ to break things free.
Muy buen video felicidades por tu tiempo y paciencia gracias
Thank you. Hope it helped.
The most useful video for changing stator and pulser coil. Thank you so much for sharing and wish me luck 😁
Sorry you found it useless. Most have found it helpful.
@@gnjadventures my apologies Sir. I don't know what happened to my phone. I typed useful and just now I saw useless. My phone auto correct function is very annoying. I'm going to edit now. I been looking for this video and I found this one the most useful. I'm really sorry for the typo mistake. I feel embarrassed
Understand the auto correct. No worries. Good luck.
Thank you for your understanding. I have a question. My pulser coil or the pick-up coil got bad and the bike cranked but didn't start. I found a few cheap replacement coil like $30-50 part but the oe would cost $150. OE comes with the wire and connector but aftermarket coils have cable only. Can I use the after market one and solder the wire inside the cover. Also what kind of seal should I use to put the cover back?
Thank you
Hey, me again😁, I would like to know if you tested the stator before installing, if you had any problems with this aftermarket part? I don't want to spend $350 on the OEM part, but I also don't want to have to do the same service twice. Thank you Sir
Hey hey, good to hear from you again. I didn’t check the stator. I DID make the mistake and ordered a stator not realizing it was for a 1999-2003 and mine is an 05. So I had to replace. Not sure what the difference was other than the plugs were different, but the bike would barely start.
Good to know, mine is a 2008. I’m going to pay attention to that. Thank you again
Great help this video! May I ask what were your symptoms? I have no sparks...
No spark. Just continued to crank. Test your ignition coils under the tank. Ohms resistance should be 3.6 to 4.8 ohm at about 68 degrees. Would be slightly higher is hot weather like 3.8-5.0 maybe. As long as you’re within that range the coils are good. I smoked my regulator on the front of the frame by jump starting the bike from a running car. Lesson learned.
So I am having trouble with one coil, not getting spark. I change the coil to the other one in A. Head spark, so would that mean that my stater is bad
If your ignition coil ohms at 3.8 to 4.5 or 4.6 (going by memory, your coil back is good. I would check fuses, but if the coil is good, I would check into changing the stator. When the original stator failed, the bike was getting harder and harder to start.
What brand or website did you get it from?
Here is the site from Amazon. Caltric Stator and Gasket Compatible with Yamaha Xvs650 Xvs-650 V-Star 650 Midnight Custom 2005-2010
a.co/d/h5bgJj5
Caltric Stator and Gasket Compatible with Yamaha Xvs650 Xvs-650 V-Star 650 Midnight Custom 2005-2010
a.co/d/h5bgJj5
Thank you for this video
Thank you.!!!!
Very good
Thank you. I appreciate it
Is there any way to tell if the stator is bad, visually?
Not anything I can think of, but if you have no spark, I would check the ignition coils. Should ohm around 3.8 to 4.6 (going by memory) at about 70 degrees. The ignition coils are under the tank. Make sure to unplug them when testing. On a side note, I ruined my regulator rectifier (the heat sink item on the front of the frame behind the front tire) by jumping the bike from a running car. Was told the cars voltage was too high. Not sure if that was true, but it wouldn’t start after that. I changed the rectifier and it ran. I’ll try to make a video of testing the ignition coils and regulator rectifier
Did you put a gasket on the stator cover?
@susanwillis1143, I did not. My friend that rides motorcross suggested using Yamabond 4. I was skeptical, but he said put a light coating on both surfaces and reassemble. 350 miles later in 90+ degree heat and no leaks. Seems to have worked.
@@gnjadventures After multiple gaskets and all that oil leaking out (again!) I found your video, and this comment of yours mentioning Yamabond 4. Now I have no gasket installed, and no leak present. Why did no one tell me of this magical substance before?
@@retromash62I had the same issue. Leak after leak. My manager who races motor cross on the weekends told me about Yamabond. Wow. I love it. Glad it helped you. Thanks for the comment.