2:49 the holes are clearly too big, I think this is why Sram rotors also have issues. The best rotors I rode with so far are Hope floating rotors, I used Shimano resin only, which were useless, they got hot, wore down fast, with metal pads, but with resin pads the pads only lasted 4 weeks. it was the worst rotors I have ever used, but They got slippery pretty fast, sandpaper & braking in did not help, I switched to hope floating rotors, and the performance has been great. I haven't used many. Avid steel disk Promax Tektro they did ok, wear was pretty decent, but they were heavy. but Hope floating rotors stayed cooler, and were pretty quit, I have been using these for years, with good result, I haven't worn them out yet, I used them on 3 wheel sets on 2 trail bikes, so I swapped them, but I still got a lot of use. I have also been using TRP-29 rotors for a while on my xc bike,so far no issues, but I will see how it goes.
Those disks are made in Taiwan. You can find them another several rebranders, such as Superstar Alpine (they stopped the product), Uberbike, ZTTO, etc... I have the Superstar in 203mm in purple in the front that I installed for a trip in the alps, and in 180mm in orange on the back. I sill have a hard time to find them in those colors among other rebranders...
I don't think floating rotors are a gimmick, but not every one needs them, nor do all need 220mm rotors and six piston hope brakes, for me it would probably be overkill, but I haven't tried it yet. But I think most will be fine with 160R 180Front disks, but more braking you do more it matters, I ride fast and brake a lot, but on my xc bike it makes no sense, but on fast downhills it will matter, but also size of rotor, but I find 160R 180F to be good enough for local trail riding. But Resin only disks are stupid, I wish they were gone forever, same with single piston mechanical brakes.
I never understood what is the appeal of floating rotors for cycling. We don't really reach speeds where the 'floatiness' is relevant. I'd disagree on the rotor size tho - I run 203 front across all my bikes ( with the exception of the gravel, obviously ) and only the rear changes between 180 and 160. Sometimes I wish I had bigger front...
I will probably try bigger rotors some day, I plan to build a new bikes, but my rotors are still going strong, they have at least 2 years to go maybe more. I use both of my brakes, but my brakes and rotor are powerful enough for stopies, all the downhills in my area, but I haven't tried to do long downhills on a big mountain, I guess bigger rotors would be beneficial there. I can stop well from 52km quite well. I can definitely feel my brakes are warm after braking with Hope floating rotors, but they don't overheat, normal rotors became hot like a heater. but bigger rotors would probably help, but weight weenie as people call it would want floating rotors due to lower weight. so the appeal is smaller rotor lower weight but still good braking, but I see that some xc racers use 160 front, I haven't tried that, what I know is my hope rotors work better than all other rotors I have tried in the same size. I use TRP Spyke mechanical dual piston brake on my xc 26er bike, and on my trail bike is use Deore M6000.
My new floating rotors didn't come loose on the rivets. Do they become loose and start to float on the rivets like a true floating rotor after a short break-in? If the rotor doesn't float on the rivets then they're not floating rotors. They're fixed rotors with rivets in them.
Are you still using them? Do they work well?? Thanks
They also have these floating rotors in 140mm.
How is the pad wear? The holes seem like they would wear out most brake pads rather quickly, especially resin ones
2:49 the holes are clearly too big, I think this is why Sram rotors also have issues.
The best rotors I rode with so far are Hope floating rotors,
I used Shimano resin only, which were useless, they got hot, wore down fast, with metal pads, but with resin pads the pads only lasted 4 weeks. it was the worst rotors I have ever used, but
They got slippery pretty fast, sandpaper & braking in did not help, I switched to hope floating rotors, and the performance has been great.
I haven't used many.
Avid steel disk
Promax
Tektro
they did ok, wear was pretty decent, but they were heavy.
but Hope floating rotors stayed cooler, and were pretty quit, I have been using these for years, with good result, I haven't worn them out yet, I used them on 3 wheel sets on 2 trail bikes, so I swapped them, but I still got a lot of use.
I have also been using TRP-29 rotors for a while on my xc bike,so far no issues, but I will see how it goes.
why is it so difficult to find disc brake rotors from China that use a center lock
Those disks are made in Taiwan. You can find them another several rebranders, such as Superstar Alpine (they stopped the product), Uberbike, ZTTO, etc... I have the Superstar in 203mm in purple in the front that I installed for a trip in the alps, and in 180mm in orange on the back. I sill have a hard time to find them in those colors among other rebranders...
I don't think floating rotors are a gimmick, but not every one needs them, nor do all need 220mm rotors and six piston hope brakes, for me it would probably be overkill, but I haven't tried it yet.
But I think most will be fine with 160R 180Front disks, but more braking you do more it matters, I ride fast and brake a lot, but on my xc bike it makes no sense, but on fast downhills it will matter, but also size of rotor, but I find 160R 180F to be good enough for local trail riding.
But Resin only disks are stupid, I wish they were gone forever, same with single piston mechanical brakes.
I never understood what is the appeal of floating rotors for cycling. We don't really reach speeds where the 'floatiness' is relevant.
I'd disagree on the rotor size tho - I run 203 front across all my bikes ( with the exception of the gravel, obviously ) and only the rear changes between 180 and 160. Sometimes I wish I had bigger front...
I will probably try bigger rotors some day, I plan to build a new bikes, but my rotors are still going strong, they have at least 2 years to go maybe more.
I use both of my brakes, but my brakes and rotor are powerful enough for stopies, all the downhills in my area, but I haven't tried to do long downhills on a big mountain, I guess bigger rotors would be beneficial there.
I can stop well from 52km quite well. I can definitely feel my brakes are warm after braking with Hope floating rotors, but they don't overheat, normal rotors became hot like a heater. but bigger rotors would probably help, but weight weenie as people call it would want floating rotors due to lower weight.
so the appeal is smaller rotor lower weight but still good braking, but I see that some xc racers use 160 front, I haven't tried that, what I know is my hope rotors work better than all other rotors I have tried in the same size.
I use TRP Spyke mechanical dual piston brake on my xc 26er bike, and on my trail bike is use Deore M6000.
I see downhills who ride for hope use 220 vented floating rotors, I haven't tried those rotors.
THe resin onyl rotors are probably made of weaker steel, than hte other steel rotors I have tried.
what company makes these rotors?
I honestly don't know. You'd need to consult Taiwan Bicycle Source, or similar catalog.
@@TryboBike IIIPRO, a taiwanese company. Mine died after years of abuse by developing some play.
Don't buy Chinese rotors not because they're cheap they're poor quality,they are thinner and rust over time.
maybe 20 years in the past. nowdays china makes best bicycle parts in the world.
My new floating rotors didn't come loose on the rivets. Do they become loose and start to float on the rivets like a true floating rotor after a short break-in? If the rotor doesn't float on the rivets then they're not floating rotors. They're fixed rotors with rivets in them.