Ford F-150 Front and Rear Brake Replacement (2015-2020) How to Disable Electric Parking Brake
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I show the steps and procedures necessary to replace front and rear brake pads on a 2018 F150. If you have a Ford expedition or navigator these procedures will work just as well. We show how to disable electric parking brake.
Disc Brake Caliper Compressor
amzn.to/37FNEJR
Video work by Milledge Austin
/ milledgeaustin
I just did my front brakes on my 2015 FORD F-150 MYSELF and i take pride in doing the work myself because I know that my grandpa and dad taught me right and they are both passed on now.
Their knowledge lives in you now. 👌🏼 good shit, man
They are proud !
Yes my dad used to over haul engines, so I learned how to do a lot thanks to him my dad was a real jack of all trades! I just changed my front and back breaks on my 2018 f150 I got a quote for this job and it was going to run almost 380$ to 400 so it’s always a good feeling when u do it yourself and save some money, besides there r a lot of videos for everything now wish we had this in th late 80s and 90s
Love this and totally agree.
Never changed a brake before in my life. Watched the video, changed the brakes. No issues ! Awesome Video!
Thank you so much. I’m so glad it worked out well. I have always been amazed how much garages charge to do brakes when it’s really not that difficult.
Just did the brake maintenance mode just like you did and it worked perfectly. 2018 ford f150 4wd 3.5twin turbo eco boost👊🏽
That’s awesome. Thank you so much for watching.
Nice job fellas!
26 lbs of torque on those 13mm caliper bolts.
Thank you so much. :)
The little details in this video are great. The part/tool callouts, lighting and tracking shots add a lot of polish.
That’s all Milledge’s work right there. He is really good. Thank you.
Hey guys, thanks for this. I haven't done brakes on my truck since it was an 89 F250 and you made me feel comfortable doin it! Apart from my wheels being almost welded to the rotors it went great!
Thank you so much. Best comment.
This is my first time with an electronic e brake on an F150 Limited. Excellent video. Very helpful.
Thank you so much.
This was by far one of my favorite videos to make recently... and it was just about changing the brakes on a truck! Haha, just shows how hanging out with a good friend can make things fun.
As always, also loved learning something from you along the way. Great job explaining what you did.
Your video editing is amazing. Love working with you.
Thanks for the close ups and good camera quality. It helped me confirm I have the right parts.
@@slomo1010 awesome. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the video! I just done my front and rear pads due to the help of this video.
That’s awesome. Thank you so much.
Thanks, getting ready to do my brakes and wanted to see what I was getting into. Definitely did not know about the parking brake. Thanks again very helpful
Same here. It was a new experience to have to do the electronic part.
Just changed my brake pads this morning and this video helps! Thanks for taking time out to make this, not only it's great but it saved me money😊👍
That’s awesome. Thank you so much.
I’m glad this video exists I just assumed that a brake change would be the same as any other vehicle without an electric parking brake 1:08
Glad it was helpful. Thank you so much.
So, u had issues too, but eventually I kept messing around with the steps and all I had to do was power it off while I was holding the ebreak and acceleration.
Anytime I have done brakes over my 40+ years we ALWAYS were taught to turn the rotors so there was a good machined surface (not slick with uneven wear lines) for the new pads to seat to. Also, remove and re-grease the pins to avoid binding which will cause pads not to release evenly thereby eating up the rotor relatively quickly. Great presentation and video quality. Just to much of a Wham-Bam job.
I totally understand.
No need to always turn them, if they’re not gouged and thickn enough they’re fine, pads will bed into the rotor surface
Case by case basis on the rotor, but grease the pins for sure, non greased can eat a pad and subsequently a rotor.
Great job. Thank you for doing this step by step.
Thank you so much for watching.
At the 3:35 min mark, you mention the thin area that you can barely get a wrench in. It is a 17mm and I found a set of metric open end wrenches that fit right in. The width of the thin area is just a hair over 3/16. I tried needle nose vice grips and I almost stripped it so I needed something more precise. The bolt weren’t easy to break, after 4 years. Just make sure you got the right tools, before you start. Once I had everything, it went really fast. Honestly, the hardest part was taking of the tires.
Thank you so much.
@@JohnEngel - You did me the favor with the fantastic video, John! I guess we all help each other out and that’s the beauty of it. I really enjoy doing my own maintenance and I enjoy seeing how others do it. I don’t know everything and I always learn so much from other folks. One more thing I did that might be of use. I used a 6” C-clamp on the caliper while it was installed with the old brake pads against the rotor to expand the caliper. It worked incredibly well instead of risking the chance of letting the caliper dangle while I did it. It made it real easy to remove and reinstall with the new pads on and eliminated an entire step. Just need to make sure the brake line and electrical connectors don’t get pinched. Really appreciate you sharing and interacting! What a fantastic channel you got! You’re really helping us out. Keep up the good work and God bless, Mr. Engel!
Skip ahead to 3:30 and he finally gets to the brakes 👍
Ouch. You must be fun at a party. Lol.
I have watched a couple video in this is the best by far. Right to it... My man. Thank you.
Thank you so much. This really is a great comment
Glad I watched this. Didn't know about the E brake disable. I probably would have beating the crap out of the calipers trying get them off. Side note, I've always just used a big C clamp and one of the old pads to compress the pistons.
So glad this helped. I made this video specifically for that reason. I also had no clue the first time. I got so frustrated that I did a search and come to find out I needed to do this process. I also have used a c clamp to do brakes. It works great for most but some require them to be screwed back in. Now that I have the kit, I just it for all my brakes.
@@JohnEngel of course I wouldn't recommend using a C clamp on the back of the E brake motor. It looks really expensive
@@chrisrestifo7010 I love all the new tech but sometimes, I think simple is best.
@@JohnEngel I have a 1970 F100 Ranger, so simple, you can fix it by throwing rocks at it .😆
@@chrisrestifo7010 yes yes yes. I miss those days. Lmao.
Love the ford family thanks that was smooth alright
Just a small tip, once it's in service mode, you don't actually have to spin the rear calipers back, you can just use a compressor or channel locks!
Great info. Thank you
As a mechanic I will say two things to add 1 use the full torque specs on wheel nuts. If that wheel comes off now and kills someone it will be your fault also after 200 km you should re torque them. Also the slide pins should come out and be serviced while doing this.
Great advice.
Thanks for the video! My job was nice and easy with your helpful tips.
Thank you so much for watching. :)
Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching.
I have that tool box man! Just picked it up in a pawn shop, NEW condition. 165 w/ tax.
Nice find.
Life saver and money savers. Thank you!
Thank you so much.
Great video with clear instructions. I am trying to see if I can do this myself. I have changed brake pads before but it’s been a while. My question is - when the maintenance mode is on can we engage the electronic brake (parking brake)? When I’ve changed on old cars the parking (emergency) brake had to be on when lifting the car to prevent it from rolling off the jack. It has happened once and I am trying to prevent it. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the question. As far as I understand when it is in maintenance mode, you will not be allowed to use that rear parking brake.
FYI for those doing front pads using Ford motorcraft pads. They are no longer directional pads meaning that it doesn’t matter where you put them on.
Great info. Thank you.
4:40 the best pads to use on a F150 is the stock Motorcraft. They stop better than anything from the part store. They will last longer also.
Great to know.
Great job guys. Much appreciated!
excellent explaination,, very nice,,, very thankful,,save tons of money,,,
Thank you so much. :)
Super helpful video man. Thanks. Everything worked like a charm. 👍
Thank you so much. :)
this was very well explained good job bro
Thank you so much. :)
Every time I do a pad slap only, I regret it, because the rotors end up warping and need replacement about a year after the pad slap. This is why I do pads and rotors every time
Lmao. This is exactly what happened. We just did the rotors, so with that being said, you are 100% right and we should have.
@@JohnEngel 👍🏽🤣
@@kineticenergy1085 LOL. I just watched this video and thought how on earth are the ford factory rotors not needing replaced.
Do I still need to put it in maintenance mode if I am just gonna do the front brakes ?
@@chrisbutler2250 nope.
Never done brakes before but I'd like to try. This video makes me excited for that. Do you have any videos or advice on those clips you talked about? Would would indicate a need to replace those? What about rotors? I noticed you didn't replace them.
Thank you so much. Here is a video that shows both rotors and clips replaced. th-cam.com/video/92lPRypSqcs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_mpsdyA_aSP5qnof
Anyone got some recommendations in front and back pads ? The ones i look up someone always has a problem.
What I noticed is the rear worn-out faster than the front..
Same on my truck..
Great point.
Do you have to put on brake maintenance mode if your just changing front pads?
You do not.
Didn’t open the brake reservoir, didn’t take the pins out and service them. didn’t sand the rotors down to clean them up and blow all the old dust. Ex
Great points and thank you.
Grease the slide pins Gentlemen!! 👍🏽
Great point.
Where is your impact gun, would make taking the wheels off easy peasy, and on the front, you had to drive that pad out with a screwdriver. That means there is rust under that brake hardware and it is binding up that pad. Bracket should have been taken off all 4 wheels and rust cleaned up. New hardware installed.This guy will be changing front pads in a few thousand miles again. The only thing I got out of this was what I needed to know what how to turn off the e-brake. The rest of this video will cost you money down the road for premature break wear.
@@NatesHomeTours thank you so much.
How do you feel about the Brake Fluid Flush, is it necessary and if so at what mileage
@@robinshepard3008 great question. I was doing this project for a friend and he did not want to do a brake fluid flush at the time. I would recommend if you were changing brake pads. You probably should’ve already been changing your brake fluid.
@@JohnEngel thank you for the advise, being a little proactive at this point, looking into the future as my 2020 F150 only has 30,000...that being said at around 25 they recommended a brake flush.....I couldn't believe that was necessary at 25000 miles and doing some research may not be a DIY er.....thanks again
@@robinshepard3008 anytime. :)
Can you rent the compression tool for squeezing hydraulic pads for re-asserting over the brake pads? Or can a c-clamp be utilized as long as careful not to gouge pads?
I am sure you can rent one. They aren’t really expensive at all. You can use a c clamp as well.
That compressor looks better than the one I saw at HF, which didn't work.
This was a Amazon purchase I believe. But I’ve had it for so long that I’m not even sure.
Do u have to put it in Maintenance mode just to do front brakes?
@@squarebob3813 nope. For the fronts just it like a normal truck.
@@JohnEngel much appreciated 🗣️
I have never done a brake job without either turning the rotors or replacing them. It has been a couple of decades but I would have expected a vibration. Someone tell me what I’m missing because I will be replacing mine soon and I certainly don’t want to do it twice. 60k miles just thin but no metal to metal or squeak yet.
You should always turn or replace. We made a call based on what we had on hand and how they looked.
I relate to the Daniel Tiger phase of kids! At least it was a good show, lol! My kids called it DanDan TiTi
Mine is still watching it. Lol.
did this today. Tried get brakes to go back into regular mode (out of maintenance mode) like you did, and couldn't get it to work. Had a lightening bolt symbol come up on the dash....I had to take it to the dealer and have them to reprogram @ $89.00
What year is your truck?
You cant do the old school c clamp with electric park brake because of the plastic on the back. So i used the caliper mounts and the brake pad with 2 hand clamps to depress the cylinder. Cant figure out how to add the pic..
Great to know. Thank you.
Do you have to leave the power on once you put it in brake maintenance mode, then do brakes or turn it power off and do brakes
The battery was left connected but I think you can take that off as well. It should stay with the parking brake released.
THANK YOU@@JohnEngel
I was going to drive my truck, but I had to turn around because of the strange noise. A lot of people says it could be my brake pads. It could be because my truck has 64000 miles on it and I haven't changed the brake pads. Any suggestions for pads to buy? Since I'm not a mechanic, I'm basically relying on this video to show me how to do it. I appreciate you.
What year and model is your F150.
2016 F150 Lariat 2.7 Ecoboost 4x4
I have the same question. Also exact same ford truck as you. My rear pads are only getting about 30k miles on them and would like to get pads with some more life and less dust
@@dirkswish8691 you could try the Duralast elites. I have had good luck with those.
@@williamcotham7792 you might try the Duralast elite. I have had good luck with those.
Great video but 150ft lbs is exactly what that stuff and lugnut needs it’s a 14x1.5 thread pitch and torque doesn’t rely on weight of vehicle it relies of size and strength of stud so any 14x1.5 should technically be 150 ft lbs
150 just seems like a lot. :)
Do you have to loosen the bleeder when depressing the caliper?
@@Bugoy21 you do not. You should open the brake fluid reservoir to make sure the fluid can move.
Okay thank you very much. I'll try it this weekend.
You don’t mention that the front pads have an inside and outside. They are not identical and it’s unsafe if you get them wrong. The ones with the little ears go innside. Kinda important!!
Thank you for mentioning that. Sometimes when we are making these videos we take for granted some of our knowledge. This is a great point, and definitely should have been mentioned.
I changed my Rear brake pads without putting it in Brake maintenance mode. Now error keeps parking brake errors keeps popping up. How can I reset it?
That’s a great question. I have not had this issue but I am guessing that it needs a reset via OBD2 scanner.
I replaced rotor and breaks now can't get service trac and abs /no traction indication ights ,learning how now to put in service mode after
Did you put it in service mode to start?
I have a 2015 but I don’t have an electric E brake
so much easier without.
I highly suggest replacing the lug nuts to one-piece lugs.
I totally agree with you.
For the front brake pads I removed the 2 13mm bolts but caliper will not slide off? Any solutions
Most likely you need to compress the caliper just a little bit. You can do this in many ways. The most important part is that you do not hit the rotor. You can use a screwdriver as a pry bar to get the piston of the caliper to go back just a hair or you can try to use a clamp to compress it.
@@JohnEngel thank you for the advice I will give it a try👍 when trying to remove it sounds like it’s hitting somewhere like metal restricting it from sliding off. Will definitely try to compress it before removing thanks 👍
Did you have to open the brake boost reservoir to relieve the caliper and refill the fluid afterwards?
We did not. We checked the fluid level and all was good after.
@@JohnEngel - Okay. Great video! Thank you!
For front
Brakes do u need to put in maintenance mode .
No for the fronts. Only the rears.
@@JohnEngel thank u very much.
So there's no bleeding the lines or anything like that? I've never changed pads on newer vehicles
As long and you don’t introduce air into the system you do not need to bleed the system. :)
What about the push piston brake fluid did you do anything to that?
We made sure to take the brake fluid cap off and watch to make sure everything looked okay.
Just a basic pad slap. No resurfacing of the rotors or regreasing any other components, interesting
Yep. It was a quick and dirty.
Thanks dudes 🤙
No problem 👍
Great video! 👍
Thank you so much. :)
So if I'm doing the front brake pads , I don't need to worry about the electric park brake?
Correct. :)
@JohnEngel nice!! I'll be attempting my 1st brake job at home this week. I had a deadbeat dad that didn't care to teach me these things. My 8 year old son will be helping and learning.
@@CrunchDramaNetwork you got this. Let us know how it goes.
Did you have to bleed the brakes after changing them ???
We did not. Because we never opened the line, there was no need.
So why not the rotors?? How many miles did those rotors have?
At the time the rotors still had plenty left on them. Should have replaced them while we were doing the work but it was a friends car and he didn’t go for rotors.
When do you have to replace the rotors
You should check the amount of surface left with a caliper. You should also have your rotors turned or replaced when doing pads.
Any comments on where to start first, like farthest from the master cylinder? What about slide pin grease?
Because we didn’t have to take the brake line off, the order isn’t that important. Great point about the slide pin grease.
Need help 2016 f 150 resetting codes after break and rotor change
What’s it saying.
Bro broke the caliper😂😂 get ready to spend 1500 or more lmaooo
@@itssdiego1440 I sure hope not. That is one way to do all new brakes and rotors. Lol
How many miles were on this truck when you changed the pads?
That’s a great question but unfortunately, I do not recall.
Just watched the video again and it was 61,000
What happened to cleaning and lubricating?
Such a great catch. Thank you.
Thoughts on the Carquest gold vs Duralast Gold?
So far in my experience both have done well. I tend to lean towards the Duralast but I would use either with no worries.
Why didn’t you turn or replace the rotors?
So the book says we should have turned them and I agree. I was out of time for this project so we did the best we could. Next time we will replace the rotors and pads together.
I don't know without reading all the comments, not doing that. Not how wheels should be torqued. I bet someone already said it. Star pattern. Old school les schwab tires guy here.
Wheels were torqued using a star pattern. Now when I first put them on and the car is lifted I just tighten until torqued at the end.
I noticed you didn't replace or turn the rotors. Why is that?
It was a time issue. We ended up replacing the rotors about a year later.
Awesome !
Thank you.
How come the rotors weren’t cut or changed?
Honestly, they should have been turned but it was a quick and dirty install.
I’ve always torqued tires to 120ft pd 🤷 never had a problem and never really thought about different vehicles different specs lol …..car ,truck ,trailer it didn’t matter 120 it was 😂
I think you are safe with 120. :)
I did all that but my truck won’t turn on since it telling me there’s a problem with the brake assist
What’s it saying?
@@JohnEngel park brake limited function service
@@kevinmiranda9514 give this a try
1.Turn the ignition on , engine not running.
2. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and continue to hold.
3. Lift the Parking brake button up (set the brake) continue to hold.
4. Turn the ignition off then release both the gas and brake button. Switch the ignition back on within 5 seconds.
I have a 2021 F150 and took me about an hour to figure out that there is an extra step (pressing the brake pedal forcefully for one second while you pull up on the parking brake and pressing the accelerator down then you can turn the truck off then back on) to turn off the brake maintenance mode.
@@TXSteve320 with all of these newer cars there are so many little items like this that it makes it very hard to be a do-it-yourselfer.
I do all my service work on my F150. Dealerships are rip off.
100% agree. :)
Why can't they just put a setting on the touch screen for things like this. We should also not need an OBD2 reader, the car should give us all the information on the screen. It's 2024 our cars should be able to give us more information than just a check engine light.
I totally agree.
No need to change rotors?
The rotors where still in spec.
Always grind or file the paint off your new pads
Never knew that. Thank you.
You failed to do two steps that will prevent problems down the road. You forgot to put a micrometer on the rotors and measure the thickness of them to ensure they will not collapse from the new pads wear them down more. Second, you did not resurface or sand/score the used rotors to seat the new pads to prevent glazing and brake failure withing the next couple hundred miles. Otherwise, your video was good.👍👍
Great point. We ended up replacing them after. We just didn’t have them in time for the video.
He didn't "fail" to do anything. You can visually inspect rotors for damage and wear. It is not neccesary to put calipers on or turn your rotors every time you change pads..
@@keithb5264 thank you so much.
Where is the list of needed tools
21mm socket
13mm socket
Brake caliper tool( listed in the description)
Correction, you probably saved at least $1000 over the dealership. Your rotors surely would have been 'bad' and maybe a caliper or 2. But what do you expect from guys who earn commission on parts sales.
I hate to agree but you are most likely right.
@JohnEngel seriously though, nice video guys. Easy and straight to the point.
Try a 11/16 th wrench
Great idea.
I watched him force the caliper pistons separately without removing the resistor cap. Omg. What about the fluid level, it's to high for expansion. The mounted calipers were cooked, u have ur pads on wrong sir...
Thank you. :)
I was thinking the same thing.
Should of flush the brake fluid also
I agree.
I call them the sheet metal lug nuts. Piece of crap. Replaced with McGard solid lug nuts.
I don’t like them either. :)
So that tool is basically a fancy c clamp lmfao
Exactly. I have used a c clamp for most of my life. This tool really is only needed when the caliper needs to be screwed back in on some models.
@@JohnEngel yeah I’ve had to use one on most of the high end cars not for trucks though
Bad video springs on pads
Good springs on south side.
No no no. Please be aware since 2009 ford f 150 has a right side pads and left side pads. Also inner and outer pads. They are labeled. You cannot mixed them, the truck brakes will ov3rheat and lock up after about 40 mil3s of driving. Please look up the tsb. No joke
Thank you.
Why is it that so many of you youtube "experts" do corner cutting and teach people this junk? Why did you not remove the caliper bracket and clean up the corrosion off the slider area so it doesn't bind on your new pads and cause uneven wear? Why did you not remove the slider pins, clean and re-lubricate? This is a great way to get people to destroy new parts in no time. Must obviously be paid by the pad company and then you show how to get them to wear fast so they can sell tons of pads... SMH
Thank you so much. Great comments.
Thank you brother good video we learning something about brakes God bless you.
If you just do the front pads does it have to be in maintence mode or id it for the rear pads only
Only if you are doing the rears.
@@JohnEngel Thank you