It also helps to have a dark instrument cluster before turning the key to switch on/off the maintenance mode. I had trouble getting maintenance mode off because I didn’t do the procedure correctly the first time, it wouldn’t work until I waited and let the dash go dark before attempting again.
Watching this while sitting at a ford dealership for a recall. Just watched some pensioner get quoted 1700 for full brake job and break line flush. I imagine many people feel pressured to get a new vehical before warranty expires simply to avoid maintenance costs. Keeps people consuming and it aint right. Thank you for your content, helps people save a buck and get off the consumer hamster wheel.
Great video, Shop wanted to charge $900 for rear brakes, bought the parts for $328 and followed your steps, worked perfectly. From putting down my coffee to cleaning off my tools and putting them away, 1.5 hours. An hour of my time is worth less than $550, so this was well worth it. I'll put some of that towards a ribeye tonight! Thanks
The pads alone are 70 to 90 bucks oem direct fit Motorcraft. I got the same truck just did my rear brakes yesterday something just isn't right with that
@aaron Shorter yes sir that's not right for them to charge that. I work at a Ford dealership been there 10 years and never heard of it being that high. 145 for labor plus parts should never charge higher than that. What state are you in? If you don't mind me asking?
Side note, not sure if anyone else mentioned this but you CAN turn the key off once it's in maintenance mode, you can take the key out and lock the doors if you want, it will remind you it's still in service mode when you turn the key back on. Just FYI
For anyone coming here because you screwed up and forgot to put the parking brake in maintenance mode, then tried to put it in maintenance mode and accidentally fully extended the caliper pistons you have come to the right place. Do not panic. I screwed up and fixed it myself. To fix all you need to do is follow these steps: 1. carefully remove the piston seal from the caliper. 2. remove piston and seal from caliper and place in a clean area. 3. Under the piston there is an ebrake screw and 'spindle'. Screw it all the way down to the base manually with your fingers. You will lose brake fluid so place a rag underneath the caliper. 4. Clean with brake cleaner, then coat with new brake fluid, and Place the piston and seal carefully back on the caliper/spindle. firmly push the seal back onto the caliper. If you tear the seal like I did the replacement part is Raybestos WK3495 5. Compress the piston all the way down with a C clamp 6. Reinstall the caliper 7. bleed brakes 8. run the parking brake on/off a few times, drive around the block, run parking brake a couple times again and the parking brake malfunction error should go away on its own.
wish i would have seen this video and comment b4 i replaced the caliper. now i have to take the caliper back off so that i can reset it and then do the maintenance mode thing so i can do the other side
Just got home from dealer with caliper.. with I saw this before I got it…. Ripped the seal no one has rebuild kit near by. My guy. best comment of the year thank you very much
Also since the bolt is smaller the torque spec is 27 ft lbs rather than the 35 ft lbs mentioned in the video. Have a 2019 F150 as well and this video made it cake to change the brakes.
Like so many people said: thank you very much for the video! The electronic e-brake is definitely a new thing to me. There’s absolutely no way that I would have been able to figure that out without guidance
This worked on our 2018 F150. Took the pads off and the piston wouldn't retract, but putting it in maintenance mode fixed it immediately. Just make sure to hold the parking brake button down through the whole process. 👍
Thought my caliper was seized.. Did not know about "maintenance mode." Gonna try again tomorrow and see if I can return these new calipers, thanks! Awesome vid!
I have the same issue. The dealer started telling me that my rear pads were wearing faster than my front. Now, at 48k my rear pads need to be replaced. My front pads are close but the rear are wearing faster than the front. They actually did a check of my calipers on the rear before my warranty ran out to make sure there wasn't an issue so I could get them replaced but claimed that they didn't find anything wrong. Still curious to me.
I'm in Canada, and mine were done at 40k, km. I think it's a corrosion issue here in the rust belt, the rears never get hot enough to burn off salt and moisture, always rusting. I also noticed the stock pads were an extremely tight fit on the stainless clips, had to tap them out of the caliper. The new Raybestos pads were almost as tight so I filed a little more clearance into the ears of the pads. Now they float easily like they're supposed to.
Great video. My old friend asked me to do this job for him. I told him no. Now I can call him and tell him yes. I worked as a mech. for many years and was worried about the computer.
Great vid. 5am here and getting ready to work on the F150. Last electronic parking brake I worked on was a Subaru and it was a terrible set up. Was thinking the F150 would be bad too, but your vid proves me wrong. Thanks
Great video I was looking for scanner, rear brake pads wear out faster especially if your using cruise control it slows you down especially going down hill
@@abelmontesdeoca6774 WTH Abel! What a dang crook. Bought Pad and rotors turned at O'reileys for $90. So easy to do, I dont understand why someone would ever pay $800 or even $400.
Aaron, Excellent video! The only correction is you don't want ever use a petroleum base grease or lubricant on rubber brake parts, especially slide pins. Petroleum base products including anti-seize will make the rubber swell up & cause the slide pin to drag or size up. You only want to use silicone grease.
Thank you so much The only thing I do differently is open the bleeder valve as I push the caliper piston. This allows any sediment to push out of the bleeder and not back into the master cylinder . I used a partially filled with brake fluid bottle and a hose connected to the bleeder valve and then submerged into the fluid .
Just take the top off the master cylinder. That'll do it. Makes room for the brake fluid back to master cylinder. Just make sure no dust will get in. I just move the cap slightly to the side when it loosened and cover it all with a clean rag. If you topped up your brake fluid before that now it might be over the "max". Just adjust it. Cheers
The rears can wear out faster on these trucks because they have the hill climb assist witch basically holds the e brake until you hit the gas. In my area of upstate new York this feature is honestly one of my favorites because there is alot of steep hills I start on.
Changed mine at 55,000 as the state inspection said they were boarder line. Could maybe get another 10k but they were pretty worn. Fronts still have over half left. Thanks for the video. IOU an adult beverage of your choice.
Helped a ton. Thanks. What one thing that I didn't see was replacing the caliper which is what I had to do. Took a little bit of researching but I was able to get it done after finding the part with the electronic braking system but this video did help a ton.
I was not able to compress the caliper on my 2016 F150 using a large C clamp like I've always done on older trucks. Went to a parts store and they said there's a tool to screw the piston back inside using a rachet and extension on this special tool I rented but haven't used yet. The piston has three notches on it. Now I see you just used a tool to compress it. I'm not having luck compressing it, so do I use a tool to screw the piston inside? I gotta do the brake job this weekend.Please help in this conundrum. THUMBS UP!!!
Very helpful... But during the 'take it out of maintenance mode' section @1:35 or so you stop at 'turn the engine off.' I had to watch your shorter vid specific to just 'in and out of M mode' to realize why it wasn't coming out. Should be... 'Ignition on, hold button up (PB on), press and hold gas peddle, turn ignition off - then back on. Release all.' I just did the one side tonight. 4 hrs... Why 4 hrs you might ask? Both rear tire/rims were rusted on. After a solid hour of beating on them with a mallet and stuff... TH-cam to the rescue. Loosened all the lugs to 1/2 a turn freer than finger tight. Drove a figure 8 at the church parking lot down the block. Free and easy when I got back. Then, I had released the PB but not known about maintenance mode for caliper retraction. Once I hit a reasonable force with my C-clamp I knew something was wrong so again... TH-cam to the rescue. And that you very much. Luckily I can wait till tomorrow morning to finish the job.
Love how your rotor pops loose with a couple licks of the hammer. I've never been able to break mine loose without a bottle jack between the leaf spring and rotor. I suspect the mag chloride used here causes corrosion bonding.
Great video. It helped me a lot. Only thing different is that my 2015 had 13 mm bolts holding the caliper on. Thank you for your time to put this together.
Hey guy, everything you said was right except the lube you put on the slides. Can't use wheel bearing grease, it can't take the heat of brakes. Folks should use brake lube. Sil glyde is the best, but the black dedicated brake grease works as well.
Thank you for sharing this! My scanner doesn't support this function though it claimed to when I bought it. And thx also to Ford for the foresight. Sure beats Audi and Mercedes.
Well dont use grease on silde pins it will make those rubber insert sleeves on the pin swell and seize. There is a specific lube just for the pins called sil-glyde just for the pins and is avalibe at any parts store.
Good vid, thanks! One thing thou. They're 13mm bolts - not 14 - that hold the caliper. The rust makes it hard for the 13 to fit but with the 14 you might strip the bolt. Just use a wire brush to clean it and the 13 will be on it solid. Cheers
Where is your jack in this video? Rear diff or on the axle? I've heard rumblings about the rear diff housing on the newer F150's not being as strong as the older models so I've been hesitant to try it. I'm about to do my rear brakes and unsure the best points for jacking and for jack stands. Any tips based on your experience?
Great video Aaron. one question. i watched another video showing that it is necessary to twist the caliper piston before compressing it in. is that not the case? an old school caliper compression tool is all that is needed?
Thank you for the help, just did the rear pads and rotors . Thank goodness for the guidance with “park brake maintainance “ made, life saver for sure. Thanks again and take care 👍🇨🇦
I got a 2018 expedition, not a F150, but they are the same engine and maybe the same brake system, I need to replace the brake pads soon, hope that your steps can help me to do it next year
Great! Thank you so much for this video! Would of struggled with the parking brake for sure! Mine is a 2019 should be the same... I will find out when i do it tomorrow. 😎
thank you the powerford place here in abq nm wants to charge me 980.00 plus tax to do my front and rear brakes! thank you. now i can do if for half of that price
Great video but you really need to use a quality high temp silicone/graphite lube for your guide pins not just any type of grease. regular grease melts out.
Have 2 quick questions, 1-Why did you have to replace the rotors? 2- and, why are you using wheel bearing grease and not a high temp grease made for things like that that get very hot?
i did my brake on my 2018 f 150 just like in the video and now my brake pedal feels weak :( i think i will have to bleed the brake line ... i don't know what i did wrong
I should have watched this before doing my break job. Did not go to maintenance mode so the cylinder would not compress. Took the drive off and screwed it in the put the drive back on. No I have a limit switch warning light for my emergency breaks that I can’t clear.
Hi Aaron, we need to do the electric parking brake release procedure when we do the rear brake replacement, we have to? let me know thanks by the way good video!
I have just one question?? If you are removing the pads and calipers that are oil pressure activated..... what is the parking brake maintenance mode do exactly?
Incorrect. The parking brake is controlled by an electric motor on the rear caliper. Setting the system in maintenance mode ensures the parking brake will not be applied when you are servicing the system.
what's up friend. I had a problem with one of those same fords in an oversight the pistons came out, you can put them back in their place but now I get a message that says bad parking brake. I thank you in advance for your help, greetings from Honduras
Aaron, just curious about compressing the piston back in. I have heard that you should open the bleeder valve for that wheel so you don’t push fluid back through the ABS system ? I don’t know so I ask? On the older vehicles, I would just loosen the cap on reservoir? Thanks
Very good and precise video! Did you replace the pad hardware as it states? Why did you replace the rotors? They looked good and you could have turned them for cheap. Would have like to see the pad install into the clips-hardware. Got my pads and hardware yesterday at O'reily's. What is the difference in E-brake pads opposed to standard park brake pads.?? Thank you.
Great vid very detailed ,I was just curious about electronic brake ,my truck needed rear rotors I found a pair from market place at 25 dollars 💵 drilled and sloted not my type but who cares nobody beats 25 dollars rotors lol ,this guy bought them but didn't work for him bc his is electronic ,my is 2013 also will soon be replacing my friends his are electronic I learned alot from this vid thanks
I already have my truck jacked up with new rotor and brakes on and I can’t press the piston back but I forgot to do the e brake Maintenance mode do you think I could do this with the truck jacked up?
Lotta help thank you definitely hold the parking brake and gas through the whole process of turning the maintenance mode on or off
Thank you!
I have a key fob lariat 2018 2.7 and it didn't work had to use the computer attachment I may or may not have done it correctly
It also helps to have a dark instrument cluster before turning the key to switch on/off the maintenance mode. I had trouble getting maintenance mode off because I didn’t do the procedure correctly the first time, it wouldn’t work until I waited and let the dash go dark before attempting again.
@@AaronHinesAuto push the gas pedal or brake pedal?
No they're because he used the wrong tool to compress the piston
Watching this while sitting at a ford dealership for a recall. Just watched some pensioner get quoted 1700 for full brake job and break line flush. I imagine many people feel pressured to get a new vehical before warranty expires simply to avoid maintenance costs. Keeps people consuming and it aint right. Thank you for your content, helps people save a buck and get off the consumer hamster wheel.
My quite was $500 for each set of brakes. On 2 cars. They would cut me a small deal if I did all 4 sets at once. Lol a-holes.
Great video, Shop wanted to charge $900 for rear brakes, bought the parts for $328 and followed your steps, worked perfectly. From putting down my coffee to cleaning off my tools and putting them away, 1.5 hours. An hour of my time is worth less than $550, so this was well worth it. I'll put some of that towards a ribeye tonight! Thanks
Shops get brake pads for half the price you do as well, and if you paid 330 dollars for rear brakes you got scammed
Wait what!! 900$ man they are scamming forsure I work at a dealership our rear brake job is 145.00 plus parts and tax. They need to be reported
The pads alone are 70 to 90 bucks oem direct fit Motorcraft. I got the same truck just did my rear brakes yesterday something just isn't right with that
@@coreylehr1883 I was quoted $650 on rears only at dealership.
@aaron Shorter yes sir that's not right for them to charge that. I work at a Ford dealership been there 10 years and never heard of it being that high. 145 for labor plus parts should never charge higher than that. What state are you in? If you don't mind me asking?
You are the only video that talked about putting the brakes in service mode, you literally saved our day. THANK YOU SO MUCH
Glad to hear! Thank you!
Side note, not sure if anyone else mentioned this but you CAN turn the key off once it's in maintenance mode, you can take the key out and lock the doors if you want, it will remind you it's still in service mode when you turn the key back on. Just FYI
What is maintenance mode and why you can’t just take the parking brake off and change the pads and rotors?
@@kennethdefreitas3120 Its for truck with the electronic parking brake
Thanks I was looking for this comment😂
Thanks man, I like your video because you don’t spend 30 minutes telling what everything is. Right to the point and got me out of the 100 degree temp!
Thanks for this. Had no idea about the maintenance mode and went to Orielly to get the tool. All four wheels done in a driveway in 90 mins.
For anyone coming here because you screwed up and forgot to put the parking brake in maintenance mode, then tried to put it in maintenance mode and accidentally fully extended the caliper pistons you have come to the right place. Do not panic. I screwed up and fixed it myself. To fix all you need to do is follow these steps: 1. carefully remove the piston seal from the caliper. 2. remove piston and seal from caliper and place in a clean area. 3. Under the piston there is an ebrake screw and 'spindle'. Screw it all the way down to the base manually with your fingers. You will lose brake fluid so place a rag underneath the caliper. 4. Clean with brake cleaner, then coat with new brake fluid, and Place the piston and seal carefully back on the caliper/spindle. firmly push the seal back onto the caliper. If you tear the seal like I did the replacement part is Raybestos WK3495 5. Compress the piston all the way down with a C clamp 6. Reinstall the caliper 7. bleed brakes 8. run the parking brake on/off a few times, drive around the block, run parking brake a couple times again and the parking brake malfunction error should go away on its own.
wish i would have seen this video and comment b4 i replaced the caliper. now i have to take the caliper back off so that i can reset it and then do the maintenance mode thing so i can do the other side
Just got home from dealer with caliper.. with I saw this before I got it…. Ripped the seal no one has rebuild kit near by. My guy. best comment of the year thank you very much
Did you still put the breaks in service mode after you messed up or just change the calipers?
65000 miles need changed says inspection guy. But they need change
Make a video lol
On my 2019 it was a 13mm not a 14mm (for anyone who comes across this with a 2019) but very great video worked great for me , thank you
Also since the bolt is smaller the torque spec is 27 ft lbs rather than the 35 ft lbs mentioned in the video. Have a 2019 F150 as well and this video made it cake to change the brakes.
Yep 13mm on a 2019
The only one online willing to share the frigging elect brake maintenance BS procedure... Thank you a million times for this.
The 99 down votes are service departments that couldn't get the money to do the brakes. Thanks a ton this helped tremendously!
No kidding, on a whim I decided to let my dealership do my brakes (pads rotors all around) $1400...never again lol
Thank you, been doing my own brakes for over 47 yrs, this made it easier!
Like so many people said: thank you very much for the video! The electronic e-brake is definitely a new thing to me. There’s absolutely no way that I would have been able to figure that out without guidance
This worked on our 2018 F150. Took the pads off and the piston wouldn't retract, but putting it in maintenance mode fixed it immediately. Just make sure to hold the parking brake button down through the whole process. 👍
You saved my day with the service mode tip. I felt defeated with that piston not going back in. I was determined to save $450.
Hey Aaron, just wanted to say thanks! Replaced the rear pads on my 2018 today and your video came in clutch on the maintenance mode procedure. 🤙
Thought my caliper was seized.. Did not know about "maintenance mode." Gonna try again tomorrow and see if I can return these new calipers, thanks! Awesome vid!
went to dealer today. I have a 2017 F150 2wd with 23,500 mi and they said my rears are at 1mm pad left.
Crazy !!!
Thanks for posting the video
U bet bud. It is crazy, never have I seen a vehicle wear the rear brakes before the front! Glad the video helped you out!
Derek B. Miller I have the exact same vehicle with the same problem at 25k miles. There is def something wrong with this model!!! 😫
I have the same issue. The dealer started telling me that my rear pads were wearing faster than my front. Now, at 48k my rear pads need to be replaced. My front pads are close but the rear are wearing faster than the front. They actually did a check of my calipers on the rear before my warranty ran out to make sure there wasn't an issue so I could get them replaced but claimed that they didn't find anything wrong. Still curious to me.
I’m up here in Canada. 2017 f150 with 19,000 km. (About 12,000 miles) back brakes and rotors needed replacement.
I'm in Canada, and mine were done at 40k, km. I think it's a corrosion issue here in the rust belt, the rears never get hot enough to burn off salt and moisture, always rusting. I also noticed the stock pads were an extremely tight fit on the stainless clips, had to tap them out of the caliper. The new Raybestos pads were almost as tight so I filed a little more clearance into the ears of the pads. Now they float easily like they're supposed to.
Great video. My old friend asked me to do this job for him. I told him no. Now I can call him and tell him yes. I worked as a mech. for many years and was worried about the computer.
One of the best videos I’ve seen. To the point and clear instructions. No rambling to get your ten minutes in. Love it man thank you very helpful
Thank god you showed how to get it into service mode saved me so much time and Probadly a caliper. I miss working on old chevys
I have a 2018 f150 that had stuck rear rotors, this is the video that saved my day. Thanks bud
Great vid. 5am here and getting ready to work on the F150. Last electronic parking brake I worked on was a Subaru and it was a terrible set up. Was thinking the F150 would be bad too, but your vid proves me wrong. Thanks
Great video I was looking for scanner, rear brake pads wear out faster especially if your using cruise control it slows you down especially going down hill
Didn’t know that! Thanks!
Thanks for the excellent video! Got mine done in around 30 minutes. Beats the hell out of a $200 break shop job!
My shop wanted $350 for the rears lol. So easy, even a cave man can do this.
@@robertclymer6948 $800 plus is what the tire guy offered, I laughed.
@@abelmontesdeoca6774 WTH Abel! What a dang crook. Bought Pad and rotors turned at O'reileys for $90. So easy to do, I dont understand why someone would ever pay $800 or even $400.
your videos made it super easy to do the brakes on my f-150 from start to finish, thanks a lot man
Thanks! Glad to hear
2nd time needing this video at work. thank you for the straight forward procedure.
Aaron, Excellent video! The only correction is you don't want ever use a petroleum base grease or lubricant on rubber brake parts, especially slide pins. Petroleum base products including anti-seize will make the rubber swell up & cause the slide pin to drag or size up. You only want to use silicone grease.
Great job thanks for showing us the right way you talked to us clear and not like we were mechanics good job
Thank you so much
The only thing I do differently is open the bleeder valve as I push the caliper piston. This allows any sediment to push out of the bleeder and not back into the master cylinder . I used a partially filled with brake fluid bottle and a hose connected to the bleeder valve and then submerged into the fluid .
Just take the top off the master cylinder. That'll do it. Makes room for the brake fluid back to master cylinder. Just make sure no dust will get in. I just move the cap slightly to the side when it loosened and cover it all with a clean rag. If you topped up your brake fluid before that now it might be over the "max". Just adjust it. Cheers
Can i do this inside of putting a tube over the bleeder screw? Any tips help ? Thanks
The rears can wear out faster on these trucks because they have the hill climb assist witch basically holds the e brake until you hit the gas. In my area of upstate new York this feature is honestly one of my favorites because there is alot of steep hills I start on.
Best video for this issue by far. Saved me a headache!
Changed mine at 55,000 as the state inspection said they were boarder line. Could maybe get another 10k but they were pretty worn. Fronts still have over half left. Thanks for the video. IOU an adult beverage of your choice.
Thanks my friend you help me a lot with this tips 👍
I wish you were around when I was doing my brakes. I had a hell of a time.
Ya first time I did these brakes I was confused on how to release the caliper
Helped a ton. Thanks. What one thing that I didn't see was replacing the caliper which is what I had to do. Took a little bit of researching but I was able to get it done after finding the part with the electronic braking system but this video did help a ton.
Thanks for the tip on the maintenance mode. I told my local shop about this and they were unaware of that. Maybe time to find a new shop? LOL
Great help thank you. My 2015 was 13mm caliper bolts, and hold the ebrake button and throttle through the procedures, and was golden.
2018 is 13mm caliper bolts too
Thanks for the info , would never have thought of that of the electric e brake. Save me from dealing with dealership 👍.
I was not able to compress the caliper on my 2016 F150 using a large C clamp like I've always done on older trucks. Went to a parts store and they said there's a tool to screw the piston back inside using a rachet and extension on this special tool I rented but haven't used yet. The piston has three notches on it. Now I see you just used a tool to compress it. I'm not having luck compressing it, so do I use a tool to screw the piston inside? I gotta do the brake job this weekend.Please help in this conundrum. THUMBS UP!!!
Very helpful... But during the 'take it out of maintenance mode' section @1:35 or so you stop at 'turn the engine off.' I had to watch your shorter vid specific to just 'in and out of M mode' to realize why it wasn't coming out.
Should be... 'Ignition on, hold button up (PB on), press and hold gas peddle, turn ignition off - then back on. Release all.'
I just did the one side tonight. 4 hrs... Why 4 hrs you might ask?
Both rear tire/rims were rusted on. After a solid hour of beating on them with a mallet and stuff... TH-cam to the rescue.
Loosened all the lugs to 1/2 a turn freer than finger tight. Drove a figure 8 at the church parking lot down the block. Free and easy when I got back.
Then, I had released the PB but not known about maintenance mode for caliper retraction. Once I hit a reasonable force with my C-clamp I knew something was wrong so again... TH-cam to the rescue. And that you very much.
Luckily I can wait till tomorrow morning to finish the job.
Love how your rotor pops loose with a couple licks of the hammer. I've never been able to break mine loose without a bottle jack between the leaf spring and rotor. I suspect the mag chloride used here causes corrosion bonding.
I knew it had to be something goofy like this preventing compression. Thank you!
Excellent video, very well explained. Thanks!
My man!!!!! You just save me $1200. Thank you so much.!!!
You the man, thank you, short and to the point.
Thank you so much for this video!!! You literally saved my life with it!!!
Thank you for help us! You do awesome work!
Great video. It helped me a lot. Only thing different is that my 2015 had 13 mm bolts holding the caliper on. Thank you for your time to put this together.
same here on my 19
Perfect...I'm doing the rear brakes on my 2015 F-150 on Saturday.....
Hey guy, everything you said was right except the lube you put on the slides. Can't use wheel bearing grease, it can't take the heat of brakes. Folks should use brake lube. Sil glyde is the best, but the black dedicated brake grease works as well.
Thank you for sharing this! My scanner doesn't support this function though it claimed to when I bought it. And thx also to Ford for the foresight. Sure beats Audi and Mercedes.
Very professional and good details. Thanks.
Thank you for posting this video. It’s a big help.
Worked great!!!! Saved me lots of money! Thank you!!
Well dont use grease on silde pins it will make those rubber insert sleeves on the pin swell and seize. There is a specific lube just for the pins called sil-glyde just for the pins and is avalibe at any parts store.
Much appreciated for this video just did mines 🤙🏽
Good vid, thanks! One thing thou. They're 13mm bolts - not 14 - that hold the caliper. The rust makes it hard for the 13 to fit but with the 14 you might strip the bolt. Just use a wire brush to clean it and the 13 will be on it solid. Cheers
Where is your jack in this video? Rear diff or on the axle? I've heard rumblings about the rear diff housing on the newer F150's not being as strong as the older models so I've been hesitant to try it. I'm about to do my rear brakes and unsure the best points for jacking and for jack stands. Any tips based on your experience?
Where did you end up putting the jack to lift and set jack stands ?
Great video Aaron. one question. i watched another video showing that it is necessary to twist the caliper piston before compressing it in. is that not the case? an old school caliper compression tool is all that is needed?
Thank you for the help, just did the rear pads and rotors .
Thank goodness for the guidance with “park brake maintainance “ made, life saver for sure.
Thanks again and take care
👍🇨🇦
What if you turned the piston in and didn't put the car in maintenance mode
Excellent demonstration on how to.
I got a 2018 expedition, not a F150, but they are the same engine and maybe the same brake system, I need to replace the brake pads soon, hope that your steps can help me to do it next year
Excellent job with this video well explained for dummies like me thank you
thank you so much, i did my brakes in no time
Great! Thank you so much for this video! Would of struggled with the parking brake for sure! Mine is a 2019 should be the same... I will find out when i do it tomorrow. 😎
left something out..---- you did not let us see the notification that it is back in driving mode thank Aron for your effort thanks patrick allen
What do you do if you already removed caliper and didn't have it in service mode. And they extend all the way out
That’s what I did and I’m stuck , did you figure it out ????
Omg buddy thank you. Gladly appreciate it. !!
I bet bud:)
When in maintenance mode can you work on all 4 breaks or do you have to put it maintenance mode for each wheel you work on.
thank you the powerford place here in abq nm wants to charge me 980.00 plus tax to do my front and rear brakes! thank you. now i can do if for half of that price
Great video simply great for everyday guy
Great video but you really need to use a quality high temp silicone/graphite lube for your guide pins not just any type of grease. regular grease melts out.
Harry Palmer yup silicone paste not bearing grease as stated in vid
Great job.. not clear if the key is left on while you work on brakes after you place in maintenance mode.
Have 2 quick questions,
1-Why did you have to replace the rotors?
2- and, why are you using wheel bearing grease and not a high temp grease made for things like that that get very hot?
Good info, but just before compressing the caliper piston don't you need to remove the cover from the brake fluid reservoir of loosen a bleeder screw?
the cover for the brake fluid is vented. so no need for that, the bleeder screw can remain intake as well.
i did my brake on my 2018 f 150 just like in the video and now my brake pedal feels weak :( i think i will have to bleed the brake line ... i don't know what i did wrong
@@markymark4514 did you end up fixing it? What did you have to do?
@@pablogarza9596 went to a garage to make it bleeded
I have a 2019 and doing brakes this weekend. I wonder if rear brakes wear faster due to traction control ?
Only question I have do you leave the key on the ignition the whole time or do you turn it back off why you do the brakes
Excellent summary. Best I've seen.
If you’re replacing the calipers as well would you still put the emergency brake into service mode? Or does it not matter?
I should have watched this before doing my break job. Did not go to maintenance mode so the cylinder would not compress. Took the drive off and screwed it in the put the drive back on. No I have a limit switch warning light for my emergency breaks that I can’t clear.
When its parking brake maintenance is On, do we have to keep the ignition On while working on the brake?
To return to normal mode,do you turn the key back on after turning it off to send it back to normal??
Hi Aaron, we need to do the electric parking brake release procedure when we do the rear brake replacement, we have to? let me know thanks by the way good video!
Yes you must do the procedure in order to replace the rear brakes. The rear caliper will not contract unless you do the procedure. It will be locked
I have just one question?? If you are removing the pads and calipers that are oil pressure activated..... what is the parking brake maintenance mode do exactly?
Incorrect. The parking brake is controlled by an electric motor on the rear caliper. Setting the system in maintenance mode ensures the parking brake will not be applied when you are servicing the system.
@@AaronHinesAuto I have never seen an electric motor on the calipers..
Hi Aaron, great video. Do you have to replace the rotors every time? Why or why not. Thank you.
Replace only when they are too thin to turn. The shop that turns them can tell the thickness
It cost about 15-$20 each to have them turned or milled down. New ones are between $ 70-85 each
Thanks so much for this video, very nice of you sharing it! Good Job!
what's up friend. I had a problem with one of those same fords in an oversight the pistons came out, you can put them back in their place but now I get a message that says bad parking brake. I thank you in advance for your help, greetings from Honduras
Aaron, just curious about compressing the piston back in. I have heard that you should open the bleeder valve for that wheel so you don’t push fluid back through the ABS system ? I don’t know so I ask? On the older vehicles, I would just loosen the cap on reservoir?
Thanks
I've performed many brake pad replacements and never needed to loosen the caliper bleeders. Never experienced any problems.
I'm a certified mechanic
Nicely done! 2017 about to get new shoes .... have yet to inspect the rotors ...is it standard to replace the rotors, too?
Yes
I was told from an old mechanic that as long as there are no major grooves worn into the old rotors, it should be fine. I’m no mechanic myself though.
Thanks for your help and the time you saved me!
Very good and precise video! Did you replace the pad hardware as it states? Why did you replace the rotors? They looked good and you could have turned them for cheap. Would have like to see the pad install into the clips-hardware. Got my pads and hardware yesterday at O'reily's. What is the difference in E-brake pads opposed to standard park brake pads.??
Thank you.
Thank you so much for such awesome instructions!
Great video. Thanks for the info. Saved lots of headaches and $$$!!!
Your video was a big help. Thank you
Great vid very detailed ,I was just curious about electronic brake ,my truck needed rear rotors I found a pair from market place at 25 dollars 💵 drilled and sloted not my type but who cares nobody beats 25 dollars rotors lol ,this guy bought them but didn't work for him bc his is electronic ,my is 2013 also will soon be replacing my friends his are electronic I learned alot from this vid thanks
I already have my truck jacked up with new rotor and brakes on and I can’t press the piston back but I forgot to do the e brake Maintenance mode do you think I could do this with the truck jacked up?
Yes just make sure the caliper is installed before you go into Maintance mode
Great job done
Is it possible to do brake system maintenance mode by scanner ?
Thanks
Newbie to DIY brakes here...
I'm assuming that if I don't have an electronic Ebrake that I would just make sure it is released when doing all of this?
Awesome and easy helpful video