4.3 Chevy S10 Not starting. Fixed!! EASY...Popping, Vapor locking...Jump time??... 1995-2008
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- 4.3 Chevy S10 Not starting. Sounds like its out of time.....Fixed!! EASY...The fix...It was just right there S10, Oldsmobile Bravada and more... 1995-2008
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I just want to say thank you. I am puertorican and live in Puerto Rico where the weather is warm and hot.
my truck wouldn't start in the morning when is humid and damp, in the afternoon ran fine.
I was lucky to find your video and solve the problem.
I'm grateful for your help.
This video saved me $500. I was on the way to parts store to purchase a new fuel pump. Ran across this video and decided to purchase distributor cap instead. Came home and installed the new one and it fired right up. Thanks for the video
Hell yea!~ Cool.
I did the same the when motor isn't firing correctly replace distributor cap and spark plugs first and coil wires and see what happens then test thermostat process of elimination it seems distributor caps need to be replaced on these most of the Chevys quite often that is the basic problem
Its only 20 to 30 bucks for new distributor cap well worth the money
@@FixingWithPassion . 1
@@johnblack1768 5 CD
Thank you SO much for this video. I am admittedly not a car dude. But am currently sitting in my running s10.
I have to admit, I thought the same thing. I thought my timing jumped too and then I watched your video. I took the distributer cap off and to my surprise........ The rotor button was broken in half!!!!!! I replaced the rotor button, put the distributer cap back on and the truck fired right up. Thank you for saving me time, patience and most of all.... money. I don't have a clue how the rotor button broke but I'll be sure to check it out during routine maintenance.
Nice!
After dealing with truck not starting for 2 days and left me stranded at work had to tow it back home saw this video went to autozone got the parts and dang truck fired right up on the first try...thank you and god bless you
TY! 2001 S10 4.3L was not starting after sitting for a few days. Knew the fuel pump was on borrowed time but starter fluid wasn't firing it up, no codes on the OBD II. Checked the plugs and starter and battery. Found this video, ordered on amazon, 5 days later I have a running truck again. TY!
Good video. Thanks. Hairline cracks in a dis cap can be impossible to see. I learned this in 1987 with my 1977 Datsun pickup. She was backfiring, idling rough and going dead. I spent most of that day replacing the points and doing a basic tune-up up but nothing worked.
My dad came home and told me to wait until dark, he wanted to teach me something. After dark I raised the hood while he fired her up. It was like fire works under there! We could see fire jumping from the dis cap body. After it was fixed the next day, he put some red powdered dye into the old cap and shook it around. Three cracks became visible instantly. Hope this helps anyone that still likes running these older motors as much as I do.
Sweet!~
Sometimes us old school mechanics actually know a thing or two dont we ?? Lol get a set of lifetime wires and replace them every. Couple of years for free ..
If you aren't familiar with the wires to the distributor, write the number that's on your distributor cap onto the plug wire plugged into it at each location with a permanent marker. If you take them all off, just match the number on the wire to the number on the distributor and you will have it right. In case you didn't know, engines don't fire in sequential numerical order like 1,2,3,4,5,6. It fires in a different order to balance the engine.
A crack in the distributor, even one too small to see, can cause this.
It worked right away , I was stumped but this video helped me out ... I was at 10 hours of labour.
Thank you.. didnt even fuck around cleaning mine it looked worse than yours. got lifetime replacement rotor button and cap and shes no longer dead in the water.. I changed the plugs and wires when i got the truck didn't even know it had a distributor cap thought it was all solid state. live and learn 220k miles on the original distributor cap!!!
Word!~
Mr. Rohrbough ,you are a life saver .You made a video that was easy to follow most of all it worked mine was not as bad . as yours ,but bad enough as soon as I popped the cap I hoped it was the problem I took my time put everything back together instead of a hard start it started very smoothly .I'm very grateful keep up the good work thank you very much
Yep ..learned this the hard way on my 97 New everything. But mine starts fine it just misses Real Bad until it warms up good. Drilled my vents out. Still did it. I finally used a WD 40 Water Resistant silicone lube. Spray inside of cap one a month or so...FIXED. Good Video Sir.
Nice!~ Now get ready for Ice and snow~
Same with my 98 s10 4.3 !!! 8m going to try the wd40 thanks
That's very helpful Sr, I hope we had more people like you that likes to help the world and don't expect nothing in return just like to help others, thank you for that and keep up your great work. SWT...
`Thanks! JLLK!
Thank you. This was my problem. I had a bad dist. And replaced it with a new cap n rotor and surprisingly it was bad in such a short time. Had the one that came with the new dist and it worked. Also replaced the coil and wires but they werent the problem.
Great! Thanks! Glad you fixed it!
this has help me with 3 problems
1 random popping noise when turning the blazer off
2 running crappy till the blazer was warm up
3 no start same as the video
i was stranded at my kids place about 172 miles from home
seen this video and went to napa and bought the top and the piece that was under it that spins
installed it and runs like new total cost was alittle under $59
so thanks for this video as it fixed the 3 problems i was having
Thank you soooo much for posting this video. I watched it and it was exactly what I was dealing with. Took off the cap and it was green under there. We had just got 30 inches of snow too. A+ tip!
Heads up on the screws to take it out, if you've gotten a new distributor and cap, the screws are for a T15 screwdriver. The clearance you need to get to them have to be less than 4". Hope this helps with anyone who is having the same trouble. I ended up getting my sister blowdryer and drying the distributor for 5 minutes just to get the moisture out without takes the distributor off.
Ah yes the hairdry quick
+Drossa17 - I have an easy fix for it :)
Thanks for taking out all the guesswork . I too had to replace the cap and rotor to giver her life.
We are havivng the same exact problem with our 2002 Chevy S-10. My hubby watched this and this is his next step tomorrow. I will keep you posted.
Keep us posted and to give hope to so many others!
+Callme Aanaway - I have an easy fix for it :)
Thanks for keeping us posted. Not!
Same problem with my 1993 Chevy S10 tbi .. moisture in cap and rotor ..I used Taylor cap and rotor with all brass ..I think it works better than the stock cap and rotor..I sealed it up with small amount of silicon. The vent was clear . Thanks for video.
Nice!
Where the vent you guys be talking about?
LOOS3CANNON the vent is on the distributor housing .take the cap off you will see the vent with a screen on it .I hope this helps
LOOS3CANNON theses Chevy 4.3 balance shaft motors have a bad problem with wearing out distributor gear and timing chain as it's a single roller and it's turning a balance shaft .any wear can make your timing to jump all over .
Just wanted to add for anyone having issues with no start on these s10s an blazers.. Check the ignition module in the distributor. That was my issue an spent tons of money replacing parts before I figured it out. Hope this helps.
Good catch!
@@FixingWithPassion 👍🍻
It was doing some funny stuff .. like sometimes it would start but turn over 8-10 times before starting then sometimes it wouldn't start at all.. but it still had spark ..an good fuel pressure. An then it just stopped starting .
Hello, mine is a s10 2.5 1985, could this solution work for me,? Have replaced fuel pump and issue continues. Thanks in advance.
@@moyeteitor
It could minene would spark sometimes an then not spark at all .
I eventually just put a new distributor in it . First thing I would do is a spark test. Go buy one of those lil spark lights an check#1 cylinder.
Nathan Thank you! My sons 2002 4wd 4 door Blazer quit on the way home. It would crank but not start. I just tuned it up 4 or 4 months ago but I cheaped out and bought a $19 china ebay cap/rotor kit. Don't ever buy one of those. Carbon dust and arching was all over under the cap. I put a good quality one on this time and it fired right up! Thanks again!
Nice!~
You may be surprised but they are all from China these days, so it is the manufacturer's quality control that we have to challenge. Where it exists, you get good parts, where it is absent, you get junk.
I'm not surprised at all almost everything is made in China these days. What I should have said was I bought a cheap, no name, generic cap and rotor kit from Ebay. The one I just bought from Autozone was actually made in Mexico and has the brass inserts just like the a/c delco ones that everybody says to get but autozone was out of. It's a much better quality item.
Word!~
Mine is doing the same thing, except it is flooding the engine. I replaced a broken distributor (shaft was broken) about 2 years ago. Now it acts like it has no spark, but it will pop once in a while. I will get a new cap and rotor. Thanks for the video and solution.
Thank God for smart mechanics like you Thank you so much sir !! I would tip you if i can. Thanks so much !! This solved my problem on my 2000 s10
Thanks! I'm still learning. Keeping up with the technology is a daily style.
TVWXMAN32 thats right i was going to jump on the fuel pump and replace it glad i didnt. Your video was a great help !! Thanks
Nice! Happy Driving!
Well add me to the club . My 06 Silverado was doing this and I was thinking it was the fuel pump , I watched this video and tried it and I just saved 600 bucks ! Thank you so much for this video !
Nice!!
Thanks so much, that was the cause of my hard starts, especially in damp or wet weather. The cap looked fine but it was bad. I replaced both, Started right up...
It was the distrubter cap had moisture and needed sand paper. Thanks man helped me out . Fired right up
Nice!
You just saved my ass I couldn't figure out what was going on changed those 2 things and it runs like brand new hoping I get a little better gas mileage now thanks for the great video
Good video, I just came across this. I have an 03 s10 blazer 2wd LS. I started throwing a code (I can't remember what it was) but it was missing . Very simply it was that damn cap. I cleaned mine and sanded the contacts slightly and haven't had the problem since. I have read on the S10 forums if you do replace the cap and rotor replace it with AC Delco. I've read about guys that buy the aftermarket caps and they only last a few months. I have 173,000 miles on mine so it's probably time for a new one anyway. I go by the motto if it ain't broke don't fix it. Thanks again buddy !
If you run into moisture's issues... I found a fix for it!
Except for the popping, that's exactly what my 95 sounds like today. Yesterday it started just fine. Today is very humid. Distributor cap and rotor are fairly new tho.
Hello Nathan, I went back and reviewed this film. It's a good case study for me. I'm a Ford man, but I've been expanding out with other makes to learn all I can to help people that need free help! Like I once was, vulnerable , so I can help them. I've much to learn!, but learning much being a DIY'R, 😊👍, I've seen in other films, professional mechanic stumped in a" no start" situation , it turned out to be a cooling temperature censor Nathan, you're examination was only second I've seen to determine if that was the starting issue. Of course you're case it turned out to be a Distributor cap, thanks again friend !👍🌞
Good to know....!
+Dave Deatherage - YES, I have had that happens before and I did make a Video about it. The Coolant Temperature Sensor can cause a no start. *If* you had a shut down during *hot* engine ride. Once it cool down, the engine will start again. Also i like to note... If you have a bad Ignition Control Module, it also behave that way as well.
@@JodBronson OK, thank you.
+Dave Deatherage - Easy Test of the ECT - Check this Video I've made out.... You might get something out of it :) - th-cam.com/video/q0v1kbw7iJI/w-d-xo.html
This is a great video. It mirrored everything I went through. Apparently, changing out the rotor did it for me. Moisture is a problem. Application of die-electric paste at distributor wires helps. These distributors go bad fast. Order a fresh set cheap off the internet and KEEP IT READY!
i know Im randomly asking but does anybody know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Grey Archer Instablaster :)
@Kannon Karter i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kannon Karter it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you really help me out :D
@Grey Archer happy to help =)
Tech tip for y'all dealing with moisture in your Ignition system, BUY some WD40 . All you need to do is lightly spray the distributor/cap and rotor assembly with it and your vehicle will than start! That is what WD40 was originally designed for as it stands for "Water Displacement #40" In all my years turning wrenches it's the #1 method I've found.
Edit: Fyi the timing in these are controlled electronically and the ECM adjusts it to meet the requirements for fuel/air.
Nice!
You just helped me fix my car the check engine light went off and everything
How to use a battery pack starter
My 2004 4.3L stopped when I hit the gas merging high speed onto the highway. Has 66 lbs. of fuel pressure and spark on the spark plug side. I've replaced a fuel body on one of these motors and it solved the problem. I think I may check all my sensors first this time. BTW I have lost one of those screws before.😂
O wow!
What's fuel body 🥴
I had this problem, sometimes it would crank sometimes it would not, very frustrating I did the distributor thing the battery thing the temperature sensor thing, to no avail. Still sometimes would sometimes would not. I got a fuel pressure gauge and it showed 50 psi I was told that was enough and no bleed down so I just said to hell with it and put a new 149 dollar GM fuel pump in it and haven't had any issues since. 50 psi is borderline it want atomize the fuel it will shoot a little stream in the cylinder causing it to flood out, you need at least 65 psi for proper fuel dispersal.
Can anyone tell me if a 2003 zr5 4.3liter vin code x motor would work in a 2000 chevy blazer 4x4 vin code w
Thanks bud got my baby back on the road in ten mins. 2003 s10
Thanks so much for this. You just saved me a ton of money. I put a new distributor cap on and it fired right up. Great videos man!
;D
I wish I saw this before I replaced a timing chain that I had already bought and found the engine hadn't jumped time. the cap had the engine turning just like yours and I replaced the cap afterwards and it cranked right up .thanks for the video, it will save people a lot of money 👍
.
mine is doing exact same thing...have 60 psi fuel pressure, coil sparks ,plug spark.. no codes (had p1345)replaced timing chain,cam sensor cap and rotor..i had it running badly before i replaced timing chain using ebay cheap rotor and cap... i bought a better cap at auto parts store today...Very depressing all the time and money so far... i will stay positive and fix this sucker tomorrow ...
Ok. Let us know if you get it fixed!!~
i was told by 3 mechanic tdc on compression stroke was when timing gear marks when i replaced gears and chain are facing each other...anyway on my blazer it was the exhaust stroke...so the chinese cap i bought is great once i reinstalled the distributor correctly...also was running bad bucking and hesitation.... code p0101 which is MAF sensor which was bad..cleaning it did not fix...i have one on the way...truck should run perfect with the new sensor... great to have it all figured out... thax
Man I just got this fixed. This vehicle did exactly same. Thanks
O wow!
I needed this video. Have Chevy Blazer with same problem it won't to start but won't, weather been crazy here raining, then snowing, plus freezing and sleeting. I was told I needed a fuel pump.. Go figure.. thanks because this is what I was trying to explain to someone about moisture getting trapped inside under the hood...
Thanks my friend, the problem has been fixed thanks to you.
Thanks for the video.... This video helped me fix my GMC Sonoma. I thought it was a fuel pump issue. I tried this first and it fired up first try.
+Jeremy Duty - If you run into moisture's issues... I found a fix for it!
I have the same engine in my 1999 . another thing that can happen is the mass air flow sensor gone bad.. it is in the intake tube close to the radiator.. unplug it and try and start it. if it starts this is your problem.. to double check this while motor is running plug wire harness back on maf sensor... it engine immediately shuts off your maf sensor is bad. this distributor problem happens a lot due to design. Have not been able to find an aftermarket distributor cap with brass contacts that will last longer than alum ones. I have been told the moisture drain hole in base of dist has a screen in it. I was told to remove the screen and drill the hole to a larger diameter and it will help.. it is not a cure but will help. These distributor caps are known to crack internally and will cause arcing and will also act like this when trying to start. I wish someone would make a better distributor and cap for this engine.
Good tips!!
Thank u thank u thank u!! Have an 01 Blazer doing the same thing. New Air filter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, and maf sensor. Going to do the distributor this weekend!!!
Dis you ever get your blazer started? What was the issue?
Thx I did a fuel pump but ended up being this issue on my 2005 Silverado 4.3
Nice!
Been down that rabbit hole. Intermittent spark from the cap. There is a test port on the fuel line (driver’s side) by the distributor. If you wanted to check pressure. The On Board Diagnostic’s (OBD) throwing that coolant temp code 🤬.Good video man👍
Interesting!
any chance you could elaborate ?
I wanna add that theres 2 timing marks on the crank pulley that when looking down from the top use the 2nd mark when turning cw. The 1st mark is used on astro vans with a 2nd mark on the bottom of the timing cover about the 5 o'clock position. This is because of how harder it is to get into the engine bay of the vans.
I don't know what engine you have but on that 4.3 you cannot rotate that distributor !
Very cool vid! I have a 94 Blazer with a v6 4.3 Vortec engine and the same problem. Mine is injection fed but not much different. I cleaned the cap and rotor and still have the same issue, will change both and the plug wiring too. In addition , the intake did not produce any suction when i turn the engine so i guess it must be a valve problem.
O not good.
@@FixingWithPassion I know, I'll keep trying though . I'm not giving up !
Buy a new one. Cleaning it doesn't always fix it
Thanks! Got a new rotor and and cap and it fired right up
Gotta love the crappy fuel system in these ol S10's .. I've owned and still own several and it's common place to have to replace the pump every few years, AND then there the lovely Spider Injection which fails more than most people know of. Luckily now you can repair each individual injector as there's several aftermarket companies making replacements. Years ago you had to go dealer direct and it was around $400 for just the Spider Injector NVM labor if you weren't doing it yourself. It's great when it's working properly however.
Right on man!
another thing, drill out the screen vent holes, them being blocked is what causes moisture to sit in those dizzys
Right on man!
Only if I would have found this video two days prior to trying to figure this out save me a lot of money thanks a lot I really appreciate it
Dude I just fabricated an entire custom bed for my S10 with 92k miles. I really hope this is the problem
And now it won't start nowthat im finished*
i saw no moisture. as you said at the begining...the distrib...is worn out. putting a new cap and rotor on is temporary. id did that a few months back. started the blazer up. right away i could hear the new cap being destroyed by the off center rotor. GRIND CITY !!
Yeah i had a 98 c1500 350 with 98k miles an did the same shit when it would turn over an after putting a new cap an rotor an it fired right off an good as new again lol . Customer was shocked after spending so much money at other places , shops .
Causs she was charged $300 for a tune up an nothing was touched
Nice!!
As I was watching and listening I was wishing I could speak to you and let you know that the cap is gonna be the culprit lol, I know quite well as I’ve been through the exact same issue with my 02 blazer ZR2. #Quick Tip- spend the money on a good distributor cap with the gold terminals, I think I paid around $50 bucks for one at Oriellys, the gold terminals won’t corrode as easily as the cheap ones and they have a life time warranty on them.
I will tell you something about condensation you won't believe. Condensation occurs in a distributor cap because the temperature and humidity inside the cap are different..condensation occurs even more so when it rains or a lot of moisture in the air. After running the vehicle, the inside of distributor is hot. outside is cooler. moisture on the outside causes the inside temperature to rapidly cool causing moisture to accumulate every where . If it does it once it will do it again. I will give you a little tip on how to keep it from ever doing it again. Believe me this really works. Take the cap off ...drill two holes in the lower back side of the cap..(tiny holes)..being careful not to drill thru any wire ports. This lets the inside of the cap VENT and equalize inside and outside temps. I have done many distributor caps this way. This inside condensation will also cause the wire ports to short out even when dry just like the one in the video. Had you dried inside the wire ports you probably would not have to had bought a new cap...the last one i did happened to be a 2001 s10 extreme. I bought it new and it still runs today. Never had another problem with it.
Soooooo true!
The problem you guys are having with premature cap and rotor failure is that the bottom of the distributor has one or two vents that keeps the inside from building up moisture. When you change the cap and rotor, spray out the vents with brake cleaner or carb cleaner. There is a screen in there that gets clogged. You don't have to use only AC Delco parts also. I've sold many different brands and my customers have no problems after I tell them about the vents. This info is on the web if you research it. Good luck all.
Thanks for your story!
No problem. Someone told me about it. I've gone over 4 years and 60,000 miles since I changed out the cap and cleaned the vents. Just paying it forward.
I've changed cap, rotor, and distributor sensor, cranks shaft position sensor still having problems
@@shawnp8076 you ever figure it out?
@@shawnp8076 Ignition control module.
Outstanding video. I'm having the same problem and I think before I dive into this I'm going w/ a new cap rotor and set of plugs.
By trying to start this thing I have flooded the the engine w/ gas and no doubt gassed the plugs. when I tried to start it, it did try
to start a few times but sounded like yours. It has been raining here for several days and no doubt everything has been collecting moisture. Sure appreciate the help. Thank you and I subscribed.
If you run into moisture's issues... I found a fix for it!
Put a dog wicle and rubber hose in number 1 when it stops making noise its at tdc.caps suck got plenty extra.
Fkin brilliant. 👍
My blazer has this same issue looks like TH-cam saves the day again
I'm having very similar issue...& had it happen before - towed an hour to mechanic & when it arrived there...it started - they changed the ignition switch, but obviously that wasn't the issue cause here I am again, stuck @ neighbors-facing the wrong way for towtruck...& I gotta get the plow of it -- there was snow in engine bay from charging overnight - fingers & legs crossed - I give up for today
First of all the temperature sensor is the master sensor of the whole engine
..design flaw. Yep that describes it. Some overpaid yuppie behind a desk designs it and somebody has to figure out how to fix it. Couldn't you put a small bead of Silicone around the distributor body where the cap slips over it to help keep some of the moisture out?? Great Video Nathan...!!
If you run into moisture's issues... I found a fix for it!
Yooooo!!!! U probably just saved a world of ppl.. cause u ran sure saved me
These crab type caps are notorious for corrosion. see service bulletin # 03-06-041A (Jan 28,2005) it covers 2001- 2003 Astro, Blazer, Express, S10 2001 - 2003 Jimmy, Safari, Savana Sonoma 2001 oldsmobile Bravada With 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L engines.
I have the same problem with my 2000 Safari, I have to change the cap every year due to corrosion. My van is not a daily driver.
o-my!
The word shit is an acronym for Ship High In Transport. This came out of old England prior to the combustion engine. Cargo going any distance in old England was transported via sailing ships. Manure was a cargo transported on sailing ship and they learned that wet manure made a stinking mess. So when they transported manure by sailing ships they placcarded "Ship High In Transport" to keep the manure dry.
As far as the temperature sensor I have a 98 4.3 Vortec it has 2 of them the one on the side of the engine that you showed in the video was for the gauge and the other one is mounted between the thermostat housing and the EGR valve that is for the computer at least that's the way I understand it on the caps they develop hairline cracks between the paths on the humps that cross across the top inside you can't see them but they cause the Sparks to jump just like the moisture does most of the time they don't last a tune-up. You have to do them early I hope this helped out some
The sensor you changed goes to the instrument panel not the computer. It's up near the thermostat. Also the cam sensor, in the distributor cap, doesn't effect how the engine runs at all.
Right. Good eye.
@@FixingWithPassion since I've got you, my 02 Chevy Astro has the injectors down next to the valves and has wires under the intake that goes to them. Is the fuel pressure the same for this type? Is this an aftermarket system? Or did Chevy change? I think this is the first vortec I've seen with this
Same problem same issue, & I change the router & the cap, I got give it a second look 👁️👀
Wow!
very good video, thanks Young man. Superb procedure and success.
Nice~!
My 2013 Chevy pickup , 4.3 been running good for 9 years n0 problems . Lucky I guess .Good video thanks ...
Hi! Thanks!
1990 Chevy s10 4.3l v6, i replaced the distributer cap (idk if I put the wires back the correct firing order) it still cranks but now it has white smoke from the engine when cranking
I have a 2002 chevy s10 v6 , I had done a full tune up changed the fuel pump, new distributor and cap , the truck was driving great and then one day it won't start, it is not getting gas, any suggestions,?
Same here someone please answer
Thank you for this video
It helped
I replaced the cap and rotor and fired right up
;D
There is a product called WD-40,
water dispersement formula # 40.
Leaves a oily film inside cap so moisture will not return.
Coolant sensor controls fuel delivery.
Good to know.
Couldnt you have jumped the wires going to sendor
@Manuel Ester did you change the o2 sensor that the code was thrown for?
water displacement 40th try
Thank you my 02. Zr2 is doing it everytime its wet ouy...ill change it up and should be fine ... thank you ive been hoping its something easy..
My 03 S10 dies while driving and take up to 5 attempts to restart. Any ideas of what to look at.
Did you ever hear of a tune up doing plugs wires and cap that the computer has to reset itself please comment back
Check the coil wire could be a cracked wire (insulation) arking to motor.check at night to see better had a 1997 s1 4.3 kept blowing coils.fix replaced bad part of wire fixed.
Nice!!
u can sometimes get the cap screws with the duralast gold caps and rotors:)
Those caps are tremble design I've been thru 3 on my old 350. Does same thing on those too.
Save time and go to 10:00
Service bullitin drill a hole in the bottom of the distributor where the screen is says GM
Nice!!!
Okay so I just spent so much money on my 1991 chevy s10 4.3L pickup new stuff I bought for her:
New Alternator, New fuel pump & fuel sending unit, New fuel tank, New distributor Cap & New distributor and spark plugs and wires, New sensors for EVERYTHING. New EGR Valve.
New Fuel injectors and fuel injector housing. New fuel filter, New safety switch (all 3 replaced). New ignition cylinder lock. Only thing I haven’t changed was the ECM. My battery gauge is reading 17volts that’s way to high something is off.. any help would be great
No gaskets on the rotars or distributers? Dammit GM, you're making it harder and harder for me rip on Ford and their plastic timing chains.
I know right!
Plastic timing chains? As if. Guides, tensioners, gears maybe, but not the chain.
Every one knows there are no gaskets
I hope you get this today. I am still not getting this thing to run. I have bought a new cap and rotor. I am getting zero codes from the OBD. Any suggestions??
GM recomends to Do this every 100 miles
My 2000 Chevy s-10 has a jerking problem when it shifts and driving at a constant speed but is just fine when it warms up could the rotor and distributor cap be the problem also has a starting problem and it gets worse when it’s raining
Yes!!! Exactly!!! Thats what mine is doing and you are the first to explain it just like it is. No one has heard of my issue before and think Im lossing my mind lol...
Goodmorning, I know it's way late. But I don't even get that much crank. It's brand new battery, new starter, checked fuses new plugs. When I start. It sounds like it just clicks once. Not multiple times like a starter. Anything would help. Thanks!
So to be clear your distributor it self was fine, you just needed the cap?
Only asked because I'm on a major budget and time crunch
Yep ;D
I recently changed the fuel pressure regulator on my 99 sonoma 4.3 an now it wont start but its getting fuel an spark would you suggest trying to replace distributor cap an button?
Your awesome man, had exactly same issue with my 2005 Blazer whenever it was damp.. Cleaned all contacts with sensorkleen some fine sand paper and bam started on one crack... One thing worth mentioning is there is small vents under rotor that prevent Condensation from building up, be sure there not clogged.
I have a 2000 blazer i drove it to the store come out it would not start towed it home and i have put all this new stuff on it: ngk plugs, ngk wires, new distributor, ac delco fuel pump, ac delco coil, new crank sensor, and it is getting fire because its back firing through the throttle body, but when it does turn over it will do this sudden stop thing that it has not ever done. It has 226,000 miles on it i put the new distributor in it ok i put it at tdc piston 1 all the way up and rotor at 6 and the 2nd line on the hermonic balance right. Well it still wont start so i thought maybe a bad distributor so i went and got another one and put it in well when i pulled the previous one out i marked it ok so when i put the new one in i thought i would just check a couple things i went to the hermonic balance and checked that the lines lined up well they didnt but the rotor was pointing at the 6 and the lines were lined up but piston 1 was at very bottom on its way back up so i dont get this its back firing and it just isnt right can someone help me
Screw cleaning them, if im going to the effort of taking them off im replacing them. But I see ya had to get it going until parts came in. Mine went bad just like this on the way to work one day, exact same symptoms.
I did the same thing u did. Maybe more. And it wouldn't start. Until i put new cap and rtr. On.
On my 4.3 Router must point to number one plug on the cap. Same as a V8.. Second mark on balance'r
Good job 👍
Wow you like the greatest person in the World thank you so much
I wish you would've gave me a comment back if that had to be done doing plugs wires in a tap do you have to reset the computer or no please comment back in let me now
Very good video 👌 thanks
Nice!