A simple "Thank you" is waaay short of the gratitude I have for your excellent knowledge and teaching skills. You have just saved me tons of heartache and head scratching. These regulators have killed more trucks with spiders than we could ever know. Something else I must share is the oil pressure switch, located on the back of the block, can go bad causing rough idle, mysterious dieing, and no fuel pump voltage (improper voltage). They have a set if contact points inside and can either burn or internal spring failure. Its in a tough spot to service but a $21 pressure switch can save your truck.
I purchased this truck in a garage sale here in Forida for $800.00 four years ago. seller thought engine was blown. I bought as is. water in oil. I tested every cylinder perfect compression. intake manifold gasket failed. I replaced total coolant system and gaskets. flushed the engine. extended cab 4wd truck. Its been my daily driver for the last 4 years. ac was shot, 1k to fix. no thank you. overall excellent truck.
This helped me figure out what was going on with the fuel pressure drop in my 2000 4.3. Also now I know I have a SCPI system which has a similar FP regulator. The test on the fuel lines are very helpful to know. I'm a premium member and have the book yet still find your perfect vid I need hand fed to me by TH-cams algorithm. Thanks for your years of compiling all this information. I love it!
Hi Paul, thank you for these detailed diagnostic videos! Just made a quick buck with my scan tool and fuel pressure gauge for this exact internal leak issue on a 2001 Blazer. I am in the process of establishing my own shop here in central PA, specializing in automotive diagnostics. Keep up the awesome work, you are my inspiration to battle the parts changers!
Great video. Back when I was green, the ex wife had a 93 S-10 blazer with this problem. I chased it for a week before consulting someone with more experience, who told me this was a common issue. This video sure would have helped!
I know this is a 10 year old video, but it is exactly what i needed! About to tear into my 94 with the CPI. Looooong crank, running very rich. Thanks for this!
I want to "plus 1" all of the positive comments below. The troubleshooting steps were awesome and spot on for my 94 S-10. I saw a few folks ask about changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator while still in the car but as I've completed the job, I'm not going to search for the answer at this time. If it HASN'T been answered, I would LOVE to suggest that as an option if its possible. That part was all that was wrong ($50) but I broke the plastic tabs on one very difficult popette. So, $240 later, I now have an all new spider injector assembly. My suggestion would be to squeeze the clips with one hand and wiggle / pull the plastic (not the fuel line) with needle nose pliers. I think the ring of plastic near the tip of the popette is more solid than trying to wiggle the clips. Anyway, thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle the job.
+searnhardt8 thanks man and nice job. Unfortunately those plastic tabs are brittle. I've done these with one broken clip and they hold, but not two. Sorry you had to change the whole thing.
Hi ScannerDanner. Because your videos over the years have been so helpful and because you've answered my questions in the comments sections of your videos, I have bought your ebook! Thanks!
You r my fav. youtube channel.If your school ever makes a stink of you filming,you can say that if a student misses a day,he/she can watch what u filmed so that person does not get behind.I know that missing 1 day of Tech school,you miss ALOT.I look forward to your videos & hope to be as knowledgable as u someday.I will also click on all your ads to help u out everytime I watch your videosKeep up the awesome work.Thumbs up everytime too
My 1999 GMC Jimmy(4.3L Vortec) had this exact same issues. Previous owner repeatedly used seafoam to "clear it up", ended up ruining the CAT... Truck runs great after proper repairs.
That was easily the most informative, well spoken and educational videos I’ve come across since I got my s10 blazer. Same exact condition on my truck so this helped me out a ton. Thanks!
That's a great point about maintaining pressure to prevent fuel boiling on the rail. No doubt that's a point made as a result of unfortunate experience. The lighting is great in this video.
This is extremely helpful. Not much of a GM mechanic since I have only owned imports. My brother has a 92 Oldmobile Bravada that I have changed the Fuel Pump fuse and fuel filter, Cleaned the after market K&N cone filter. Ive put fuel treatment in it. Hasn't been able to start on its own, just long strung out cranks with foot to floor.
Step 1 is to definitely check your fuel psi. There is a service port on the intake area and you can buy that particular psi gauge to fit specifically your application for like $30? Or rent one from the parts store? Less than 50 psi on these things and they will not start. Then also major flooding from the regulator rupturing, which again can be determined with that same psi gauge
Great video, hoping to receive my copy of your book in the mail today. I was wondering why fuel pressure went up when you opened the throttle then a few minutes later you explained it, fantastic.
Pinch pliers,not vise grips. Lol, had a guy that worked for me that used vise grips and cut 3 different lines until he bought some pinch tools. Great video and knowledge as usual.
this video is the best i have seen yet, i have the same problem with a 1997 tahoe 5.7 when the weather breaks i am going to try this it is better than changing that spider.keep up the good work !
that's great! thanks for the update. ill keep u posted on any new material. right now i am working on a page for page lecture of my book. it is about 50 hrs of material which i will most likely break up by sections. it would be in video format with my smartboard. in fact it will be like you are sitting in my class.
Awesome video! You did a wonderful job explaining everything and you gave me all the information I need to tackle the same issue in my GMC Safari. I am very thankful for your efforts 🙏 bless you!
My son had me watch this video so I would know what he has to do to my Safari van. Same engine as this one. Very informative and it will help him get the job done. He is a good home mechanic. I am blessed by him and this video.
Thank you so much! My newer videos 2016 and up you can really start to see the production side of these videos getting to be almost as good as the content.
I would agree. As far as replacing the whole unit, I wouldn't do that. Your truck is a newer design and uses 6 separate electrical injectors as opposed to one. So it is called a Sequential Central Port Injection system. (SCPI) I believe the injectors are sold separately but I may be wrong, it's been a long time since I have been inside one of those. As for troubleshooting a leaking regulator. It would be the same steps I've shown in this video. Fuel pressure bleed-down test is the key.
sounds like you know your stuff inside and out dude, bravo, more, these newer vehicles give this old man bad headaches, you make this look easy, which I am sure it is to you. Wanna be pals?
no problem and keep me posted on what you find. also I have some other videos on o2 sensor testing and short term and long term fuel trim if you need them
wow... just WOW... you're AMAZING. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and I do mean EXPERTISE--this is fantastic info. And now, I'm gonna go fix my 1996 GMC K3500's problem. Every symptom you went over is what my truck is doing, including diagnostic codes (albeit it from my cheap little reader compared to yours). :) I can't thank you enough!
I've seen people use head mounted cameras, seems the amount of work you do on cars would be great for you freeing up your hands, always great videos anyway!
Wonder how many of these were rebuilt or swapped after spinning a rod bearing from too much gas in the oil? I wasted a bunch of time & $700 on a non-running 94 Sonoma a few years back. Replaced the spider, starter, tune up. Got it running only to hear a knock once it warmed up.
Safety glasses when disconecting the fuel lines don't forget,and would you need to stuff rags down the big open ports to avoid anything falling down them?,when dismantalling the injector assembly.Great video by the way.
This is an awesome video man. I have at 95 ZR2 s10 with the same issues. Ive checked the fuel pressure and it hold, no leak down. So now im stuck, trying to figure out why its running rich and why it takes so long to start, with the gas pedal all the way down. The inside of the intake was all dirty, not clean like yours was in the vid. The person I bought the truck from has already replace a few parts. Map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, distributor cap and wires, plugs, And a few other parts. He couldn't get it to run right. Im thinking its the CPI or spider injectors, IT does have the new FPR on it though. But anyways... thanks for the amazing video man it must of took you some time. I appreciate it.
@TheZenerDiode Your 2001 version is different as your design is a Sequential CPI system, meaning you have 6 electrical injectors as opposed to one in my video. Same regulator set up though and they have the same problem too.
Is it unusually warm where you are right now? If so, don't sweat this problem, it will go away when they switch over to the summer blend fuels sometime in late April or May. My truck is having the same problem and it is a vapor lock condition from the winter blend fuels.
Nice. What you are describing is exactly the symptoms of a bad O2 (not a bad pump) on a Chrysler product. Watch this video "2003 Jeep Liberty O2 Bias Voltage Testing" and also "1997 Jeep Blown O2 Heater Fuse Case Study" which the 97 it had a blown fuse but a bad O2 itself will give you the same symptoms.
Just fixed one. Rich bank 2 code. Dropped 30 lbs fuel pressure in 2 minutes, koeo. Pinched return line, still dropped. Removed intake, pass side manifold washed clean from fuel leaking from the pressure regulator.
ty for this vid, im currently in the process of diagnosing my 01 blazer, it has nasty13mpg :-( and a slight maybe minor rough idle at times... no long crank though. debating just going for the multi port injector as its more efficient anyways, but i will definitely be following some of these tips to make sure!
What if you don't have a bleed down problem but 0 psi when key on position I also notice smoke coming from my throttle body when removed after truck is warmed up
Thanx for the help man, just diagnosed I have a bad fuel pump check valve in my 96 chevy. I was just about to get the FPR valve changed but it holds pressure with the PSI line pinched
Great video, specially the part about pinching off the lines. I'm troubleshooting one in which priming pressure rises to 30 psi and quickly goes to zero. I was thinking about pinch # 1; the pressure gauge (and fuel pressure) is in between the vise grips and the return side with the regulator still in the picture. To isolate the fuel pump/check valve, would it be a good idea to disconnect the fuel filter and connect the fuel pressure gauge there? Thks
You can get scan data all the way back into the 80s with GM and Chrysler. It is not the Verus that enables this. Any good scanner can do this. (Not the few hundred dollar ones)
What if you don't have any codes? And it has a long crank time when it sits for awhile? But if I shut the vehicle off then immediately restart, it starts right up. I'm thinking either a leaky injector or bad throttle body fuel pressure regulator or diaphragm... I have a in-line walbro fuel pump and it holds a steady pressure of 12.5-13psi. Oh, it's on a 1988 s10 blazer 4.3 v6 with th700r4 combo. (but swapped into a cj7 jeep). Thanks for the video. 😎
Hello mister Paul. I had a similar problem with one car with similar fuel system (Opel Astra). I wanted to test the fuel pump if the valve in pump is not holding the pressure so I connect my fuel gauges direct to the pump inlet (I remove inlet hose from the rail) and when I manually engage the pump pressure is coming but when I disengage the pressure it is coming down rapidly so I assume the pump inside is not holding the pressure. Fuel system have a pump and a rest pressure valve on the rail.
An also when you hit the gas the fuel trim number drop to zero! So whatever the problem is its affecting it at idle or when vacuum is high! An when driving at bout 5% throttle I can watch fuel trim number crawl up to -30% an then it will start hesitating like someone is flicking a switch for the fuel pump!
How does it happen? You choke up the pressure line and a return line with a vise crip. How could the fuel pump gave a pressure in order to raise up the pressure gauge? Why there was a fuel pressure took place?
Excellent video! My truck is holding fuel pressure fine but i think i may not be getting fuel to the 4 & 6 cylinder. Is there any way to check for a clogged line or poppet valve? My temperature gun tells me those two cylinders aren't firing. Spark and compression are good. Any ideas??
I have a 1997 tahoe with a 5.7 Vortec that has the same issue. I'm getting ready to replace the regulator. I was going to say why only the p0172 code for the one bank and not the p0175 for the other bank if the regulator is bad? but watching the video answered my question. On this truck the intake is divided in 2 halves unlike my truck where the intake isn't divided. My truck has p0172, p0175 and p0300 and has all the same symptoms.
I think I'm having this issue, occasional check engine light and poor gas mileage I even smell fuel near the intake plenum. Any ideas? I'm going to change the oil and get a code reader I'd hate for this to lead to a blown up engine or any real bad issues.
Dose a 1997 k1500 suburban L31 vortec have this same connector you used on the truck to turn on the pump and if so were is it located ,trying to perform this test 🤔
Question is, if it wasn't for the oversized fault would it be possible to change the regulator out in place so that I can keep from breaking any lines or popits?
I have a 95 cpi and I thought it was gonna be the regulator or injector I hooked up pressure gauge and it’s at 48psi and when I hit gas it goes down 5psi but when I turn pump off it doesn’t loose pressure . Fuel pump you think ? Symptoms is rough idle no start in morning sometimes and dies out at red lights sometimes thanks !
Yes sir. Check pump powers and grounds to be sure. Change the pump and fuel filter. But do a dead head test first (pinch off the return line momentarily) psi should go to about 100 psi. If it does, your psi regulator is bad. If it doesn't, If it stays at 48, the pump is the problem. Continue then with the power and ground test before replacing
IM about to do the same thing with my 1995 Blazer but I will replace the whole unit. The truck only has 60k original miles but, what many experience is the failure of the injectors and lines.....that is the lines themselves rotting. Excellent vid tho. thanks
Hands down one of the most thorough and informative videos ever!!!!! I learned a lot, liked and subscribed! Thank you! If I block off EGR will that eliminate all the mess shown on the driver side of your intake (opposite the leaking FPR side which was not black)?
don't worry about how black the inside of the intake is. Every car is like this and it is from PCV gases. it doesn't hurt engine performance at all. Thanks so much!
@@ScannerDanner I have a P1404 code and a P1416 cleared them then I got a P1415 and P1404 cleared them again but P1404 persists. What happens if I eliminate all smog, EGR, Secondary air pump etc , yet leave 3 OS sensors for closed course competition of course? Getting some misfiring especially around 1500 rpms, Also some high idle and occasional idle stumbling.
@@stuartmotorsports The P1404 may need the battery disconnected to clear the memory of the closed EGR valve position th-cam.com/video/HT4OnP4U0to/w-d-xo.html
I have a slow drip under the middle of seats. Maybe oil? Not sure its 2001 S10 chevy 4Wd. Starts good under 106000 on it. Any suggestions ?? Getting reday to drive across country. From Montana to Michigan. Had no problems coming here...
I have a 1997 GMC 3500 pickup truck dually.. Pep Boys store number 0604 Hollywood California is currently stumped by my vehicle. They diagnose fuel pump problem and charge me to change it.. it seems to be at the onset of this fuel pressure regulator problem in my opinion. The time that will hold pressure is less and less. Currently 2 hours it was overnight. One started in the morning. The way I drive it... as I do start and stop continually.. it functions.. initially after they installed pump motor only. They could not start the vehicle could not figure out the problem. It's serendipitously started with starting fluid. For them.. I believe... The first time. They sent me on my way . After one month. It would not start. Again. In the morning as it was before.. pressure read 7 lb initially suppose it bad pump which I still have to be tested later. With that new pump they installed seven pounds also as they explained dumbfounded.. I discovered as they did serendipitously well sitting on the hood spring in intake to put on lift it kept running. I mean what to spray starting fluid. Keep running with starting fluid it kicks in within a minute. Immediately restarts when turned off.
I just changed out on my 1998 s10 4.3l pick up truck. be very careful when getting to the fuel regulator. very difficult pulling everything to change, the haRD part getting there . if your a novice do not attemmpt.
I have a 2015 Chev Malibu with 177000 km and it shows code 0089 and code 0016. Code 0089 says it's the fuel pressure regulator and the 0016 says it's the bank 1 camshaft position sensor. I called the dealership for the price of the FPR and they tell me they don't have one on the computer. A dummy like me believes him because I don't find any videos of anyone working on the 2015 which seems to be different than the others in the engine. Any information would be a appreciated as I have no clue where to find, even the line to fuel pressure test. Thanks
Interesting diagnosis and fix. Thanks for sharing --- For a 2000 GMC V6, 4.3 L, Does anyone know the typical life of the fuel pressure regulator ? And does anyone know the typical life of the fuel injector / poppits ? Would it be wise to replace the fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel injector / poppits after 200k miles ?
Thanks man! I don't think that's the issue because the truck has been doing this sense last July. I've had a shop take a look at it (when it first started doing it) and they said that its an issue with the spider/regulator. How long do you think I can get away with this? Also if and when I replace it, should I upgrade to the mpfi spider while I'm at it? I think I'm going to replace everything even if its just the regulator while I'm in there. It just needs to make it till this summer!
I have a 96 Chevy and the psi is on 55 when ignition is on and when the truck is running but when I give it gas it doesn’t go pass 60.. & when the truck is off the pressure runs down quickly.. Could this be the pump?
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZG8rMJwILxA/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](/img/tr.png)
This is a great example of someone who truly understands the "why", not just the "what".
Excellent.
A simple "Thank you" is waaay short of the gratitude I have for your excellent knowledge and teaching skills. You have just saved me tons of heartache and head scratching.
These regulators have killed more trucks with spiders than we could ever know.
Something else I must share is the oil pressure switch, located on the back of the block, can go bad causing rough idle, mysterious dieing, and no fuel pump voltage (improper voltage).
They have a set if contact points inside and can either burn or internal spring failure.
Its in a tough spot to service but a $21 pressure switch can save your truck.
Thanks so much Michael. Just knowing these videos are still helping people is all that matters!
Excellent presentation by a technician who truly understands the system at hand.
Well done, sir. 👍
I purchased this truck in a garage sale here in Forida for $800.00 four years ago. seller thought engine was blown. I bought as is. water in oil. I tested every cylinder perfect compression. intake manifold gasket failed. I replaced total coolant system and gaskets. flushed the engine. extended cab 4wd truck. Its been my daily driver for the last 4 years. ac was shot, 1k to fix. no thank you. overall excellent truck.
This lad knows his onions, i love to see a proper diagnostician at work.
I'm 54, my life would have been different if I'd had the internet when I was 18 years old. Thanks for sharing you're knowledge Scanner Danner.
Me too my friend, thanks!
This helped me figure out what was going on with the fuel pressure drop in my 2000 4.3. Also now I know I have a SCPI system which has a similar FP regulator. The test on the fuel lines are very helpful to know. I'm a premium member and have the book yet still find your perfect vid I need hand fed to me by TH-cams algorithm. Thanks for your years of compiling all this information. I love it!
Thank you so much Steve!
Hi Paul, thank you for these detailed diagnostic videos! Just made a quick buck with my scan tool and fuel pressure gauge for this exact internal leak issue on a 2001 Blazer. I am in the process of establishing my own shop here in central PA, specializing in automotive diagnostics. Keep up the awesome work, you are my inspiration to battle the parts changers!
awesome man thank you!
Great video. Back when I was green, the ex wife had a 93 S-10 blazer with this problem. I chased it for a week before consulting someone with more experience, who told me this was a common issue. This video sure would have helped!
I know this is a 10 year old video, but it is exactly what i needed! About to tear into my 94 with the CPI. Looooong crank, running very rich. Thanks for this!
Heck yeah, awesome. Thanks!
I want to "plus 1" all of the positive comments below. The troubleshooting steps were awesome and spot on for my 94 S-10. I saw a few folks ask about changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator while still in the car but as I've completed the job, I'm not going to search for the answer at this time. If it HASN'T been answered, I would LOVE to suggest that as an option if its possible. That part was all that was wrong ($50) but I broke the plastic tabs on one very difficult popette. So, $240 later, I now have an all new spider injector assembly. My suggestion would be to squeeze the clips with one hand and wiggle / pull the plastic (not the fuel line) with needle nose pliers. I think the ring of plastic near the tip of the popette is more solid than trying to wiggle the clips. Anyway, thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle the job.
+searnhardt8 thanks man and nice job. Unfortunately those plastic tabs are brittle. I've done these with one broken clip and they hold, but not two. Sorry you had to change the whole thing.
You are one of the best teachers of anything on TH-cam
Great video very well done. It's really nice to have someone that really knows what's going on and show how to do this stuff the RIGHT way. Thank you
Instablaster
Hi ScannerDanner. Because your videos over the years have been so helpful and because you've answered my questions in the comments sections of your videos, I have bought your ebook! Thanks!
Thanks man! I really appreciate that. More than you know.
You r my fav. youtube channel.If your school ever makes a stink of you filming,you can say that if a student misses a day,he/she can watch what u filmed so that person does not get behind.I know that missing 1 day of Tech school,you miss ALOT.I look forward to your videos & hope to be as knowledgable as u someday.I will also click on all your ads to help u out everytime I watch your videosKeep up the awesome work.Thumbs up everytime too
My 1999 GMC Jimmy(4.3L Vortec) had this exact same issues. Previous owner repeatedly used seafoam to "clear it up", ended up ruining the CAT... Truck runs great after proper repairs.
@Drlovemachine Agree again, but we used what was available. But it is a good lesson on using aftermarket parts and the trouble you can run into
That was easily the most informative, well spoken and educational videos I’ve come across since I got my s10 blazer. Same exact condition on my truck so this helped me out a ton. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great training I have a 95 SS CPI S-10. This video helped me get her running better than ever thank you
had this problem on my 5.7 and updated to multi port injection while I was in there best thing I ever did for my truck !
That's a great point about maintaining pressure to prevent fuel boiling on the rail. No doubt that's a point made as a result of unfortunate experience. The lighting is great in this video.
I'm not a mechanic but it helps to see what's involved.
This is extremely helpful. Not much of a GM mechanic since I have only owned imports. My brother has a 92 Oldmobile Bravada that I have changed the Fuel Pump fuse and fuel filter, Cleaned the after market K&N cone filter. Ive put fuel treatment in it. Hasn't been able to start on its own, just long strung out cranks with foot to floor.
Step 1 is to definitely check your fuel psi. There is a service port on the intake area and you can buy that particular psi gauge to fit specifically your application for like $30? Or rent one from the parts store? Less than 50 psi on these things and they will not start. Then also major flooding from the regulator rupturing, which again can be determined with that same psi gauge
Brother u got the best video I've seen about fixing something
Great video, hoping to receive my copy of your book in the mail today. I was wondering why fuel pressure went up when you opened the throttle then a few minutes later you explained it, fantastic.
Pinch pliers,not vise grips. Lol, had a guy that worked for me that used vise grips and cut 3 different lines until he bought some pinch tools. Great video and knowledge as usual.
this video is the best i have seen yet, i have the same problem with a 1997 tahoe 5.7 when the weather breaks i am going to try this it is better than changing that spider.keep up the good work !
Thank You, Paul Great Detail. Love your work. Great Role model for us who really care about what we do. GB
This was awesome. I’ve been going nuts trying to figure out where I was leaking fuel out of my 94 S10
Very nice i have been debating trying not to throw parts at my blazer. Has been a test for me since I bought it
that's great! thanks for the update. ill keep u posted on any new material. right now i am working on a page for page lecture of my book. it is about 50 hrs of material which i will most likely break up by sections. it would be in video format with my smartboard. in fact it will be like you are sitting in my class.
Awesome video! You did a wonderful job explaining everything and you gave me all the information I need to tackle the same issue in my GMC Safari. I am very thankful for your efforts 🙏 bless you!
My son had me watch this video so I would know what he has to do to my Safari van. Same engine as this one. Very informative and it will help him get the job done. He is a good home mechanic. I am blessed by him and this video.
You are a true professional this is the best video I've ever seen. I think you solved the problem for my 03 Blazer.
Thank you so much! My newer videos 2016 and up you can really start to see the production side of these videos getting to be almost as good as the content.
I would agree. As far as replacing the whole unit, I wouldn't do that. Your truck is a newer design and uses 6 separate electrical injectors as opposed to one. So it is called a Sequential Central Port Injection system. (SCPI) I believe the injectors are sold separately but I may be wrong, it's been a long time since I have been inside one of those. As for troubleshooting a leaking regulator. It would be the same steps I've shown in this video. Fuel pressure bleed-down test is the key.
Paul, you are a walking, talking automotive repair manual. Wish I could retain half of what you do.
sounds like you know your stuff inside and out dude, bravo, more, these newer vehicles give this old man bad headaches, you make this look easy, which I am sure it is to you. Wanna be pals?
Brother I just watch this video of you doing this job I want to thank you very much for the inside on this I have a 99 S10 LS
Thank you! Glad it helped
no problem and keep me posted on what you find. also I have some other videos on o2 sensor testing and short term and long term fuel trim if you need them
wow... just WOW... you're AMAZING. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and I do mean EXPERTISE--this is fantastic info. And now, I'm gonna go fix my 1996 GMC K3500's problem. Every symptom you went over is what my truck is doing, including diagnostic codes (albeit it from my cheap little reader compared to yours). :) I can't thank you enough!
Yes, as the check valve is part of the pump itself.
I've seen people use head mounted cameras, seems the amount of work you do on cars would be great for you freeing up your hands, always great videos anyway!
EXTREMELY useful video! Helped me out a bunch. You seem to be a really knowledgeable guy
Wonder how many of these were rebuilt or swapped after spinning a rod bearing from too much gas in the oil? I wasted a bunch of time & $700 on a non-running 94 Sonoma a few years back. Replaced the spider, starter, tune up. Got it running only to hear a knock once it warmed up.
Safety glasses when disconecting the fuel lines don't forget,and would you need to stuff rags down the big open ports to avoid anything falling down them?,when dismantalling the injector assembly.Great video by the way.
This is an awesome video man. I have at 95 ZR2 s10 with the same issues. Ive checked the fuel pressure and it hold, no leak down. So now im stuck, trying to figure out why its running rich and why it takes so long to start, with the gas pedal all the way down. The inside of the intake was all dirty, not clean like yours was in the vid. The person I bought the truck from has already replace a few parts. Map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, distributor cap and wires, plugs, And a few other parts. He couldn't get it to run right. Im thinking its the CPI or spider injectors, IT does have the new FPR on it though. But anyways... thanks for the amazing video man it must of took you some time. I appreciate it.
Double check all your grounds there are many. Clean them with sand paper or wire brush and use electric grease
@TheZenerDiode Your 2001 version is different as your design is a Sequential CPI system, meaning you have 6 electrical injectors as opposed to one in my video. Same regulator set up though and they have the same problem too.
Love the knowledge dropped on this video.
I've put hundreds of dollars n multiple mechanics n this is the 1st ive seen im sure this is the reason
Good luck! Do your pressure bleed down tests I showed before pulling the intake off
Is it unusually warm where you are right now? If so, don't sweat this problem, it will go away when they switch over to the summer blend fuels sometime in late April or May. My truck is having the same problem and it is a vapor lock condition from the winter blend fuels.
Nice. What you are describing is exactly the symptoms of a bad O2 (not a bad pump) on a Chrysler product. Watch this video "2003 Jeep Liberty O2 Bias Voltage Testing" and also "1997 Jeep Blown O2 Heater Fuse Case Study" which the 97 it had a blown fuse but a bad O2 itself will give you the same symptoms.
Really good video. Very informative. 👍😎👍
Just fixed one. Rich bank 2 code. Dropped 30 lbs fuel pressure in 2 minutes, koeo. Pinched return line, still dropped. Removed intake, pass side manifold washed clean from fuel leaking from the pressure regulator.
This video was super helpful! Thanks so much.
Very informative, excellent video. Thank you !
ty for this vid, im currently in the process of diagnosing my 01 blazer, it has nasty13mpg :-( and a slight maybe minor rough idle at times... no long crank though. debating just going for the multi port injector as its more efficient anyways, but i will definitely be following some of these tips to make sure!
What if you don't have a bleed down problem but 0 psi when key on position I also notice smoke coming from my throttle body when removed after truck is warmed up
Good explanation... You Know Scannerdanner. I am right now purchasing your book. just to show you my sopport. thanks again
@TheZenerDiode Make sure your EGR valve isn't sticking open (it will set a code for this)
Thanx for the help man, just diagnosed I have a bad fuel pump check valve in my 96 chevy. I was just about to get the FPR valve changed but it holds pressure with the PSI line pinched
Nice job man! Way to pay attention to detail. Even though everyone was probably telling you to put the injector assembly in it.
ScannerDanner no kidding, it is a very similar symptom, but I'm getting a TPS code, and the gas mileage is normal, thanks again for your help
Great video, specially the part about pinching off the lines. I'm troubleshooting one in which priming pressure rises to 30 psi and quickly goes to zero. I was thinking about pinch # 1; the pressure gauge (and fuel pressure) is in between the vise grips and the return side with the regulator still in the picture. To isolate the fuel pump/check valve, would it be a good idea to disconnect the fuel filter and connect the fuel pressure gauge there? Thks
very informative and with a great attitude! THANK YOU
You can get scan data all the way back into the 80s with GM and Chrysler. It is not the Verus that enables this. Any good scanner can do this. (Not the few hundred dollar ones)
You still mechanicing?
amazing!! I see why they call it the spider..
Love your user name! A Father to the fatherless He is too!
What if you don't have any codes? And it has a long crank time when it sits for awhile? But if I shut the vehicle off then immediately restart, it starts right up.
I'm thinking either a leaky injector or bad throttle body fuel pressure regulator or diaphragm...
I have a in-line walbro fuel pump and it holds a steady pressure of 12.5-13psi.
Oh, it's on a 1988 s10 blazer 4.3 v6 with th700r4 combo. (but swapped into a cj7 jeep).
Thanks for the video. 😎
what a great presentation and teacher!
Thanks friend, glad you liked it
Yes! Great question
You are an excellent teacher!!
Thank you Don!
Very cool!, had a similar situation on a Safari Van with a similar system. Problem was all fuel lines are metal and couldn't pinch to verify.
excellent video, thank you for the information
Hello mister Paul. I had a similar problem with one car with similar fuel system (Opel Astra). I wanted to test the fuel pump if the valve in pump is not holding the pressure so I connect my fuel gauges direct to the pump inlet (I remove inlet hose from the rail) and when I manually engage the pump pressure is coming but when I disengage the pressure it is coming down rapidly so I assume the pump inside is not holding the pressure. Fuel system have a pump and a rest pressure valve on the rail.
An also when you hit the gas the fuel trim number drop to zero!
So whatever the problem is its affecting it at idle or when vacuum is high!
An when driving at bout 5% throttle I can watch fuel trim number crawl up to -30% an then it will start hesitating like someone is flicking a switch for the fuel pump!
Ac delco regulator is the factory GM Brand and has exact specs to fit.
How does it happen? You choke up the pressure line and a return line with a vise crip. How could the fuel pump gave a pressure in order to raise up the pressure gauge? Why there was a fuel pressure took place?
When both lines are pinched. The pump is not running. We are testing for a drop in pressure indicating a leak
@ScannerDanner I coulda swore they didnt have multi port with the injectors on the legs until 03' though, but ill look into it.
Excellent video! My truck is holding fuel pressure fine but i think i may not be getting fuel to the 4 & 6 cylinder. Is there any way to check for a clogged line or poppet valve? My temperature gun tells me those two cylinders aren't firing. Spark and compression are good. Any ideas??
Very informative! Thanks! 👍😊👍
@MrJgonzalez2 OBD1 half breed, since it is a 95 I don't think it is fully OBD II compliant but I could be wrong
I have a 1997 tahoe with a 5.7 Vortec that has the same issue. I'm getting ready to replace the regulator. I was going to say why only the p0172 code for the one bank and not the p0175 for the other bank if the regulator is bad? but watching the video answered my question. On this truck the intake is divided in 2 halves unlike my truck where the intake isn't divided. My truck has p0172, p0175 and p0300 and has all the same symptoms.
I think I'm having this issue, occasional check engine light and poor gas mileage I even smell fuel near the intake plenum. Any ideas? I'm going to change the oil and get a code reader I'd hate for this to lead to a blown up engine or any real bad issues.
Dose a 1997 k1500 suburban L31 vortec have this same connector you used on the truck to turn on the pump and if so were is it located ,trying to perform this test 🤔
Question is, if it wasn't for the oversized fault would it be possible to change the regulator out in place so that I can keep from breaking any lines or popits?
Make sure you watch part 2 of this before you do the job
How do u do this test if u have braided hose?
I have a 95 cpi and I thought it was gonna be the regulator or injector I hooked up pressure gauge and it’s at 48psi and when I hit gas it goes down 5psi but when I turn pump off it doesn’t loose pressure . Fuel pump you think ? Symptoms is rough idle no start in morning sometimes and dies out at red lights sometimes thanks !
Yes sir. Check pump powers and grounds to be sure. Change the pump and fuel filter. But do a dead head test first (pinch off the return line momentarily) psi should go to about 100 psi. If it does, your psi regulator is bad. If it doesn't, If it stays at 48, the pump is the problem. Continue then with the power and ground test before replacing
IM about to do the same thing with my 1995 Blazer but I will replace the whole unit. The truck only has 60k original miles but, what many experience is the failure of the injectors and lines.....that is the lines themselves rotting. Excellent vid tho. thanks
Hands down one of the most thorough and informative videos ever!!!!! I learned a lot, liked and subscribed! Thank you! If I block off EGR will that eliminate all the mess shown on the driver side of your intake (opposite the leaking FPR side which was not black)?
don't worry about how black the inside of the intake is. Every car is like this and it is from PCV gases. it doesn't hurt engine performance at all. Thanks so much!
@@ScannerDanner I have a P1404 code and a P1416 cleared them then I got a P1415 and P1404 cleared them again but P1404 persists. What happens if I eliminate all smog, EGR, Secondary air pump etc , yet leave 3 OS sensors for closed course competition of course? Getting some misfiring especially around 1500 rpms, Also some high idle and occasional idle stumbling.
@@stuartmotorsports The P1404 may need the battery disconnected to clear the memory of the closed EGR valve position th-cam.com/video/HT4OnP4U0to/w-d-xo.html
Thank you and will do.
Great video. Is there a way to replace the retainer poppet clips
Could there be a rough idle - lack of power concern with a leaking regulator ?
Usually over-fueling (leaking regulator) will not cause a lack of power at wide open throttle.
The question I have for you is what are you do you put on the new fuel pressure regulator but it will not let you get to the injectors
I have a slow drip under the middle of seats. Maybe oil? Not sure its 2001 S10 chevy 4Wd. Starts good under 106000 on it. Any suggestions ?? Getting reday to drive across country. From Montana to Michigan. Had no problems coming here...
Transfer case seal, Transmission pan gasket. Transmission rear seal??
Thx I just had the oil changed. Wouldn't they have noticed that??
I have a 1997 GMC 3500 pickup truck dually.. Pep Boys store number 0604 Hollywood California is currently stumped by my vehicle. They diagnose fuel pump problem and charge me to change it.. it seems to be at the onset of this fuel pressure regulator problem in my opinion. The time that will hold pressure is less and less. Currently 2 hours it was overnight. One started in the morning. The way I drive it... as I do start and stop continually.. it functions.. initially after they installed pump motor only. They could not start the vehicle could not figure out the problem. It's serendipitously started with starting fluid. For them.. I believe... The first time. They sent me on my way . After one month. It would not start. Again. In the morning as it was before.. pressure read 7 lb initially suppose it bad pump which I still have to be tested later. With that new pump they installed seven pounds also as they explained dumbfounded.. I discovered as they did serendipitously well sitting on the hood spring in intake to put on lift it kept running. I mean what to spray starting fluid. Keep running with starting fluid it kicks in within a minute. Immediately restarts when turned off.
Excellent explanation.
What should the static pressure be on the SCPI System?
I just changed out on my 1998 s10 4.3l pick up truck. be very careful when getting to the fuel regulator. very difficult pulling everything to change, the haRD part getting there . if your a novice do not attemmpt.
This is not a difficult job at all.
I have a 2015 Chev Malibu with 177000 km and it shows code 0089 and code
0016. Code 0089 says it's the fuel pressure regulator and the 0016
says it's the bank 1 camshaft position sensor. I called the dealership for the price of the FPR and they tell me they don't have one on the computer. A dummy like me believes him because I don't find any videos of anyone working on the 2015 which seems to be different than the others in the engine. Any information would be a appreciated as I have no clue where to find, even the line to fuel pressure test. Thanks
what would be a good trim on a 2000 blazer short and long
Interesting diagnosis and fix. Thanks for sharing --- For a 2000 GMC V6, 4.3 L, Does anyone know the typical life of the fuel pressure regulator ? And does anyone know the typical life of the fuel injector / poppits ? Would it be wise to replace the fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel injector / poppits after 200k miles ?
It varies by the manufacturer who made it and then also the amount of alcohol in the fuel you are using
Thanks man! I don't think that's the issue because the truck has been doing this sense last July. I've had a shop take a look at it (when it first started doing it) and they said that its an issue with the spider/regulator. How long do you think I can get away with this? Also if and when I replace it, should I upgrade to the mpfi spider while I'm at it? I think I'm going to replace everything even if its just the regulator while I'm in there. It just needs to make it till this summer!
I have a 96 Chevy and the psi is on 55 when ignition is on and when the truck is running but when I give it gas it doesn’t go pass 60.. & when the truck is off the pressure runs down quickly.. Could this be the pump?
Do the tests I showed in this video for the bleed down issue.
As for the psi, it should be 60 minimum during cranking
@@ScannerDanner it doesn’t reach 60 when cranking.