LT230 very bad oil leak - cheap fix - but time consuming
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- / britrest
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Your support is appreciated!
If you have a pre 2005 Land Rover problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com
For those that didn’t catch the part numbers for the shaft o rings it’s,
FRC7439 - small o ring
FRC8292 - large o ring
On one of your videos, you had a couple of studs in lieu of bolts. Do you have a part number or details for these? Thanks
AFU1848L For the top stud, remove 2 threads on the short side, as they may be a bit long
@@BritannicaRestorations Many thanks.
Need help!!! Have diesel leaking from block at brake servo vacuum pump 300tdi. Can't find anything online
Hi, thanks for your informative videos, what size is the dummy shaft you are using?
Should the intermediate shaft have an o ring on the nut end aswell as the other end?
It has an O ring on the inside of the casting, but I have yet to see one leak - it is well-supported
Hey ! I keep seeing links to your page for swapping the intermediate shaft i ring while in situ using longer bolts but the video seems to have gone down , is it possible to reupload it ?@BritannicaRestorations
Great vid ,what size is the dummy shaft I will be doing my disco soon
Lt 230 is what type of vehicle ?
It is the transfer case
I'm just as imressed with the spam tin opener key on your loctite tube as i am with all your videos. Great stuff Mike.
Comes with the product
Love the british inginuity of being able to re-use almost anything and everything to save a few pennies!
sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Enzo Dawson instablaster =)
@Gideon Dariel Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
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@Enzo Dawson happy to help :D
I have this case, disco 04 v8. I pushed the difflock lever and the "locked" light came on on the dash. I unlocked it and the light has never come off. Where is the wire that tell the dash it on. Can I just unplug it?
The dash has surface mounted LED's - there is no bulb to unplug
@@BritannicaRestorations what about connector on transfer case? Can I unplug that black one? I see a wire follows the difflock lever.
I hate!
Crush sleeve designs.
Why not have shins or something.
More expensive I imagine.
is there much up and down movement of the flange where the front prop attaches .
I have solved my defender transfer box leak very easy and cheap, it can be done "in situ", does not need to remove gearbox or transfer case. Remove the seats to gain access to gearbox from above. Loosen bolts which bolt gearbox to transfer box and separate them just to create crack between them. I have taken very thin brass sheet (0.10mm) cut shape to fit over intermediate shaft and left some excess material to stuck between gearbox and transfer case.
Clean the area a bit, smear some flexible adhesive, stuck the sheet between gearbox and transfer box covering the shaft hole. Tighten the gearbox bolts and wait a bit adhesive to dry before driving. This way brass sheet is held firmly creating a seal over the shaft hole.
It has worked for me beautifully, no leak for years! Before that I had to check and add oil on monthly basis.
I like that idea - the brass sheet does it just crush to become invisible at the matting surface? Otherwise PVU a piece of thin sheet to the end of the intermediate shaft?
@@tillyfoxtrotter it does not crush it flat to mating surface, but it is so thin it does not influence connection between gearbox and transfer case. Car is driven like this every day for almost ten years now, has done lots and lots of miles without issues. Very easy and qiuck solution.
Didn't see you putting in the sleeve,, what part of the process did this happen,,
Great video
Which part?
@@BritannicaRestorations it's the collapsible collar wasn't sure how you fitted it,, if you slide it in after you dropped in the shaft??
Many thanks
The collapsable spacer has to be fitted between the bearings - you have to drop the gear out to do so -- you cannot slide it in
I realise this is an older video but could you give the dimensions of the dummy shaft? Thanks Angus
The dummy shaft is a pretty slick little idea
do you know if it is possible to remove the flange (front) with the transfer case in place? One of the bolts to which the propshaft is attached seems to be bent and ideally should be replaced. not sure how it got bent but might be responsible for a vibration im feeling. i only noticed it since i removed the front propshaft in a bid to test if the vibration was coming from one of the propshafts. Without the front propshaft i did not feel the vibration.
Yes you can get it off easy - prop off, in diff lock and hand brake on and use a 30mm socket and long bar
Just make sure it is tight when you put it back
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks a lot. Might be a stupid question but do i need to drain the oil first?
Gradually did it in with an impact.
Not everyone can repeat that one!
I've pretty much fixed my Disco just about looking at your videos - so, thank you :)
Great!
Mike
Is it possible to do this while on the vehicle?
Hey. Just wondering if you can chnage that O ring on the vehicle? Looking at mine even if i get the nut off the shaft wont come out the otherside enough to fit it. Does it need to come fully out the side the nut was on?
th-cam.com/video/Evr_BvIrp2Y/w-d-xo.html
from what i understand if you get to the point that you need to change the o-ring on the shaft, you will also have to machine it, because the collar on the housing would have widened a little bit due to play from the shaft. is this correct?
Not always - usually the o ring is dry and flat - you an check the wear in the casing by reversing the shaft and fitting it from the front of the casing and see if there is a lot of play
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for the tip. I think If I am working with the transfer-box in place , the dummy shaft is a real necessity. What would be the dimensions for this shaft?
This may have been covered/answered before... One of the bolts in the front flange (that attaches the rear of the front prop shaft to the transfer case) has been stripped. Should I be taking the whole front flange off to get the replacement bolt put in the same way as the rest (by cutting out the old one), or is it alright to just put the new bolt in backwards to the rest (maybe reverse the rest at the same time to be consistent?)? Why are they reversed anyway? Thanks for the help!
Get the prop off somehow and undo the 30mm nut -the bolts are held in place with a snap ring-- take this off and replace all 4 bolts - easy!
Mike
Thank you for the quick reply. What is the easiest way to get the flange assembly out/off once the 30mm nut has been removed, with the transfer case still in place under the vehicle? In addition to this, do you know what the torque setting is for reattaching the nut? This is for a 1997 Land Rover 5 door 110 TD5.
It should just pull off by hand
162Nm or 120 Lbs
Wonder whether replacing those rubber o-rings with Viton ones would have benefits? Must be possible to get the right size one, if they're always a problem!
PS some of the little bits where you pause the video and do something it'd be super useful if those of us who are a bit ignorant (ok just me!) were able to see what steps you took - maybe as a sped up section? :D
One last question - when putting the squeezy gasket on do you leave it a bit to semi-harden before installing? Or install it basically straight away?
Thanks again Mike, great vids :)
I was thinking why didn't they fit 2 O rings? It is funny, but there is another O ring at the other end of the shaft inside the housing and that never leaks!
I have this German couple passing through and their truck is having a major overhaul, so finding time to make videos is quite difficult at the moment
I sometimes get comment that videos take too long, but I appreciate your input and will bear this in mind when things calm down a bit!
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd Longer is better we can learn much more trust me i binge on all your videos my friend!🤗
@@BritannicaRestorations Do you have the diameter and lengt of the dummy please?
is this doable from underneath with the transfer box still on the vehicle?
Yes
do it with 100mm x 10mm studs
th-cam.com/video/Evr_BvIrp2Y/w-d-xo.html
using your excellent videos, i rebuild my lt230 and all was fine for a couple of months. however I think on the motorway doing 100+kph for an hour or so. after stopping there was a very strong smell of gear oil and could see I had leaking gear oil . I think it is leaking from the input shaft seal. Now it only leaks when I go for longer drives - have you ever had that? what would be a fix and ideally preventing it from reoccurring?
You may have nicked the seal when fitting the transfer box
@@BritannicaRestorations would that explain why it only leaks after a motorway sprint?
possibly as the oil is thinner when hot?
I would first check you can blow down both the gearbox breathers with your mouth using a clean small piece of clean pipe pushed over them. They are under the bonnet fixed to the back of the cyl head usually with a little 180° bend in the black pipes, they may be blocked causing pressure when hot, same concept as axle breathers
My 2.4 has exactly the same problem, can't afford the workshop prices and was a bit terrified of doing it myself but having seen this I reckon I might just manage it so I'm really grateful. One question, what diameter is the dummy/replacement shaft?
Yes you can do it yourself quite easyThere is a short cut if you are confident that you can put the nut back in the same place and not crush the spacer tube furtherThis was to show how I fit transfer cases and change the O ring in situ - the transfer cases are heavy and it makes it simpler if you take off the transmission brake (which you have to to gain access to the nut)
th-cam.com/video/Evr_BvIrp2Y/w-d-xo.html
Anyway the dummy shaft is:24.64mm x 103.25mm
Hope this helpsMike
@@BritannicaRestorations Fantastic. Once again many thanks.