LT230 new input gear and preloading the intermeadiate shaft (the wrong way?)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2018
- / britrest
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
As for adding comments, I'm sure, many of us are afraid to comment as we kno
w so little and watch these channels to learn! We rely on you to do it the best way so we can learn over and above the crap that Land Rover spouted occasionally. Believe me, it IS appreciated!
Thanks for that!
I love how You make complicated operations look easy-Way to go Mike
Hi, very informative thank you for an excellent video and not wanting to criticise but your early morning maths was incorrect 1.25Nm equates to just 0.922 lb ft or 11lb inch, the LR manual was quoting 10 lb in - you read it as lb ft because it was printed lb f in i.e. they had written lb (force) in
Hi mike I'm Greg from Melbourne Australia and just wanted to tell you I've nearly rebuilt my 97 discovery 1300 tdi by just watching your video thanks I'm learning a lot more than i thourght I knew about landrover thanks mate oh you can get rebuild kits for the vaccume pump
Thanks Greg - no, there are no parts available for the Vac pump - many people are now fitting electric pumps and doing away with the 300Tdi type
Thanks Mike, great video, keep them coming as it gives us confidence to do these jobs ourselves..
Indeed Jacques, that is the idea - to build a library of repairs you can do yourself with minimum special tools
Thanks for your support!
Mike
Brilliant video and great presentation.
I agree with you about the manuals.... I have found some 'mistakes' while setting up a salisbury diff from scratch. My comment was actually directed at the fact that the manual you were quoting had it at 10lbf in whereas you mentioned 10lbf ft which translated to 120lbf in..... 12 times as much. That's why it maybe seemed too hard to turn. With 10 lbf in, as you rightly say, they should feel tight enough but can be turned by hand.
Ian
Ian - I believe 10 ft lbs = 120 inch lbs
I could not turn the shaft at 10 ft lbs by hand and the box was in neutral
Dziękuję za tak dobre filmy o defenderze oglądam I czekam na odcinki o defenderze 2.2 TD silnik i skrzynia pozdrawiam powodzenia.Poland
Dziękuję Ci!
Nie mam obecnie 2.5 NA, ale jest na mojej liście rzeczy do zrobienia
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations mam pytanie gdzie mieści się Twój piękny warsztat dziękuję.
Lennoxville, Quebec, Canada
Mike, Thank you form the bushveld of South Africa. Very dusty conditions, noted you had greased up all diff lock linkages on LT230.
I was considering, after cleaning and checking LT230, fixing frayed wires, that after greasing linkages, take strips of GLADWRAP and turban these strips carefully (not tight around actually linkages) - pressing the WRAP ends tight against the gear shaft to AVOID the grease becoming like grinding paste with dust ingression. Your input please?
Thank for your dedication and excellent videos.
Good point, we are more concerned at keeping water out which leads to rust - your circumstances are different- Tractor linkages are never greased for this reason too - dry mud will cause wear BUT they are constantly moving unlike the linkages on the transfer case
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike. Noted your point re tractor linkages. To avoid repair we try and clean all moving parts after use, depending on water availability. For the LT i guess I'll try and close off with cling wrap. Will confirm.
Hi Mike, on the manual you're quoting it says 10lbf in., in addition to whatever preload torque existed on the input shaft. Maybe that's why it feels hard to turn. Thanks
I agree but you have to have the input in in order to check the preload- as I mentioned Ashcroft and I set them up normally by taking the lose out of the bearings but just enough to turn the input by hand
I sometimes suspect LR manuals...
Mike
Great videos, very helpfull!
One question about preloading: Why is there a preloading at the intermediate shaft of the lt230, but no preloading or even a little gap by adjusting the bearings of the mainshaft of the r380?
I'm asking because i've both of them opened to do the ashcroft packages for rebuilding, and i noticed the different handling even though the same type of bearings in both units...
Thanks a lot for all your videos an perhaps an explanation.. ;-)
best regards, Christian
I am not too sure!
I know in the R380 if there is play in the shaft it will be noisy, if too tight it will run hot
But I chatted with Dave Ashcroft about the LT230 intermediate shaft and he said they do not go by the book and set the preload so it is not to tight to turn by hand but not lose
The bearings for the intermediate shaft have a steeper angel than the rest of the taper rollers - maybe that has something to do with it?
Mike
Great videos Mike. A real help for us DIY Landy mechanics.
Can you help? I am rebuilding my LT230T with new OEM input gear and bearings.
All races / bearings fully seated.
But- Sorting end float / preload - I have no shims fitted- and When 2 pinch bolts tightened to 25nm, gear locked solid but if l back them off to get a turn with 10lb spring guage, (smooth), I detect no end float by hand - but there is a 0.6mm gap between end plate and casing. ie. As if a 0.6mm gasket is required. Any shim just increases this gap. What may be the issue here ? - 'cos I am stumped. Thank you.
That’s interesting, I have found that the Land Rover original part gasket is a lot thicker than most aftermarket ones, some are like paper! So even if you change nothing but the gasket you end up over tightening the bearings! So like you are always saying Mike, take nothing for granted.... check !
I could not understand why they made a point of fitting the gasket when all you had to do was fit a thinner shim if you use silicone sealer
Mike jaką pompę hydrauliczną można podłączyć do LT230 I jak zamontować pozdrawiam.
Great video but there is another oring in the casing on the nut side which must also be changed.
They never leak
@@BritannicaRestorations mike, just want to know if you are serious about that comment. If they never leak it'll be the first orifice of a defender that didn't leak 😆. I'm about to change the int shaft oring engine side so gonna tap it back until I can get at the oring. Now my question for the oring on the nut side. If I continue to tap int shaft back until I can get at that oring, it's gonna drop the int shaft onto it's threads. My question is this. Once I change the nut side oring and I tap the int shaft back through, will the internal gears and collapsible tube return to their original position and the gear float be the same after I tighten the nut back up to it's original location,( I'd be marking the shaft,casing and counting the turns to wind it off obviously)? Or will the gearing be all outta shape. The nut side oring is showing very very small sign of leak, but having stripped all out to change the clutch and I'm already in there, that's why I'm gonna change them orings. What do you advise. Thanks
Hey mate did you ever make a video on how to change that input shaft o-ring while still on the gearbox? Cheers
th-cam.com/video/Evr_BvIrp2Y/w-d-xo.html
Hello Mike, I tow a 2.5 ton caravan is Australia using a roamerdrive in overdrive and 4th gear on the box with a Defender TD5/ R380, I find this works well and keeps temps and wear to a minimum but recently I traded the van on a newer 3 ton model and noticed the transfer case oil temps above 120 degrees on a not so hot day being higher that previously. I have the Roamer drive T/C bigger oil housing and will be replacing the recommended oil with Liqui Moly synthetic to help but I am thinking of adding an additional modified oil cooler plumbed to the side of the Roamerdrive housing and making a cup arrangement to one of the oil lines to hopefully use the rotating T/C gear as a sort of pump to help circulate the oil. I am interested in your thoughts on this and I know high oil temps would not be an issue for drivers in Canada. Regards Peter Australia
Yes Peter not something I have come across, but plumbing in an oil cooler sounds a sensible idea
As I cannot visualise the setup I am wondering how you can pump the oil round
Just thinking out loud, but the Td5 in the Disco 2 had a pump for stability control - I wonder if you could adapt this setup to your Defender to drive a pump from the engine?
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike I am thinking of threading pipe connection holes on either side of the Roamerdrive TC sump housing and fabricating a small scoop under the gears to feed a flow of oil created by the rotation of the transfer gears when moving along the road. I would mount the cooler to the chassis or somewhere solid for airflow with flexible oil hoses to circulate the oil to and from the cooler. This would hopefully add an additional small quantity of lubrication oil in the process.
I will be very mindful of reliability by keep the installation as simple and as strong as possible. I feel the small quantity of oil and lack of airflow around the transfer case is part of the over heating issues suffered by the LT230.
I am not familiar with the Roamerdrive , but you have to take into account pipe wall friction - I think when I was an apprentice they said a 90 degree bend was equal to 7 foot of straight pipe friction - But I might not have been paying attention that day!
Hello. Been watching a few of your videos, and they are good. I have bought my second 300tdi Discovery with a automatic transmission after my first one caught fire and the insurance company didn’t let me have it back for rebuilding. I have an older automatic transmission rebuild from Ashcroft that have a seal problem. If you find the time and have a ZF automatic transmission, could you make a video about servicing that? Happy New Year from Norway.
Andreas
I have very little experience with the ZF
Over here in Canada we didn't get any diesels, and certainly no auto diesels!
The Discovery 1 imported were all V8 and 99% were automatics which gave good service, so if one did go bad ( which was rare) we used to put a known used one in
Sorry I cannot be of assistance
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd Thanks for a quick answer Mike. To bad but then maybe I will have a look for myself and put it up on youtube. Thanks for good videos. I learn a lot.
Andreas
There are not that many seals on the ZF - are you sure it is not a pipe problem? (Seen lots of those!)
Britannica Restorations Ltd No don’t think so. I will open it next year and send you a picture of it.
Do you know if the LT230 on the R380 in a Disco 1 and the LT230 on the R380 in a Disco 2 are interchangable or are they different?
yes but there may be issues with the interlocks
@@BritannicaRestorations Interlocks? Do you mean something to with an auto box? Both my donor and D2 are both manuals.
Hello! I have a lot of free play in my lt230... When I pass the changes, everything turns long before it engages, can it be that the tightening is not well done? Tank you. Yours videos are grate!
Sounds like the mainshaft is worn on the gearbox - quite common
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations i have a range rover classic, I changed the tranfer browg warner for the lt230 of discovery, before this I did not have this problem
The LT230 is a clunky beast -
See here
th-cam.com/video/ZYWteqQX7CQ/w-d-xo.html
Was the G'box mainshaft in very good order?
I have this intermediate shaft o ring leaking on my disco 1. I was thinking I could replace the o ring and crush sleeve while the t case is still attached to the transmission. Is it doable from underneath or do I need to separate the transmission and transfercase with the guide bolts? Can it be done without separating?
You can replace the O ring on guild bolts but not the crush sleeve - box would have to come out too far
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for that. Guess I will drop the case then.
It is heavy and awkward - lose as much weight as possible if doing this on your own - take off the hand brake assembly and pull out the drive gear to aid removal ( and fit the transfer with this off as it will make life easy to get back on!)
@@BritannicaRestorations I just sent you an email through your website. Thank you.
hello from France, I like your videos, please follow like that for dummies like me
Welcome Paulo!
Mike