Hey there! These videos are great and like the rest of the community i’m very thankful they exist. I’m about to go full nerd with you but please bear with me. The manual calls for a preload increase of 1.25Nm on the intermediate shaft measured on the input gear. You mentioned that you want that to sit around 3.5kgf but my maths is pretty different and wanted to run it by you and others. Wrapping a rope around the drilled section of the input gear and pulling it with a digital spring scale I read around 2.7kgf. Given the diameter of that section is about 50mm and radius of 25mm that equates to about 0.66Nm of torque to turn the input gear with no preload set at all. Now the manual wants 1.25Nm of torque in addition to that, so now we’re looking at a total actuation torque of 1.91Nm. With our lever which is actuated at the tangent of the rope (the radius of the input gear) that’s going to equal 76Nm of force on the lever or 7.8kgf on the spring balance. So in short, I reckon you might need up to 8kg on the rope tightening it your way. Thoughts?
My thinking is: if you're just replacing oil seals, and there was nothing wrong with the gears - do the string pull trick first to check the pre-load, then service, then match that previous measurement to get the same pre-load.
The spring balance force is stated incorrectly: 127 kgf is correct at 1m moment arm. You are applying the force at the radius of the input gear which means the force required is an order of magnitude greater. The imperial units of 10ilbsfin give a clue. Eg the load applied is 4.5kgf.at 2.5cm.
Quick question. I am planning to fit a high capacity sump to my LT230 box, while on my TD5 90. Are there any checks I can do while the sump is off? I was thinking checking for gear damage and side play, anything else? The box has done 230,000 KM, that 143,000 miles in old money.
The videos really do help and i have found them very useful whilst building up a LT230 box , But one problem i have found is they don't always follow on and it would be more helpful in a step by step re-build guide . That way you could skip to ie part 6 , if that was relevant to what you want , . I was following a pt1 and looked up part2 but it was something totally different . Like i said i find the videos very helpful , thanks
Matt Allen like that for me too. Sometimes a can of worms sometimes a pleasure to learn more about stuff i thought I knew about. ( does that make sense? )
Later Defenders have a shim to size which are not collapsible (as is already the case in our 2005 Td5). There are 20 different lengths in 0,025mm increments.
@@andrewhoward7200Land Rover describes a complex way of determining the shims size with the aid of several special tools. Take a look at th-cam.com/video/YE-nfj4K2zs/w-d-xo.html for a simple way to measure it. Make sure to look the whole playlist, there's some good additional info and tips there.
wow! Just been having wonderful experience watching these educational videos. Has greatly helped me in solving some of the technical challenges I've had on my Discovery 1. Thanks a lot!!!!
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Mason Arturo thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the intermediate gear had to be shimmed to reduce the end float, so when pre loading the stress on the case is reduced ? I only know this as I have an old R/R, case, cracked between the hole for the intermediate gear and the cover plate because of this very problem ???
@@trailerfitter2 thanks for your reply. But I prefer the set up using shims Putting the casing under constant stresses seems counter intuitive to me, Cheers
Hey there! These videos are great and like the rest of the community i’m very thankful they exist. I’m about to go full nerd with you but please bear with me.
The manual calls for a preload increase of 1.25Nm on the intermediate shaft measured on the input gear. You mentioned that you want that to sit around 3.5kgf but my maths is pretty different and wanted to run it by you and others.
Wrapping a rope around the drilled section of the input gear and pulling it with a digital spring scale I read around 2.7kgf. Given the diameter of that section is about 50mm and radius of 25mm that equates to about 0.66Nm of torque to turn the input gear with no preload set at all.
Now the manual wants 1.25Nm of torque in addition to that, so now we’re looking at a total actuation torque of 1.91Nm. With our lever which is actuated at the tangent of the rope (the radius of the input gear) that’s going to equal 76Nm of force on the lever or 7.8kgf on the spring balance.
So in short, I reckon you might need up to 8kg on the rope tightening it your way. Thoughts?
My thinking is: if you're just replacing oil seals, and there was nothing wrong with the gears - do the string pull trick first to check the pre-load, then service, then match that previous measurement to get the same pre-load.
The spring balance force is stated incorrectly: 127 kgf is correct at 1m moment arm. You are applying the force at the radius of the input gear which means the force required is an order of magnitude greater. The imperial units of 10ilbsfin give a clue. Eg the load applied is 4.5kgf.at 2.5cm.
nice tutorial. one note... i believe if the case it self is worn you can have a sleeve machined and fitted in the casing
Quick question. I am planning to fit a high capacity sump to my LT230 box, while on my TD5 90. Are there any checks I can do while the sump is off? I was thinking checking for gear damage and side play, anything else? The box has done 230,000 KM, that 143,000 miles in old money.
The videos really do help and i have found them very useful whilst building up a LT230 box , But one problem i have found is they don't always follow on and it would be more helpful in a step by step re-build guide . That way you could skip to ie part 6 , if that was relevant to what you want , . I was following a pt1 and looked up part2 but it was something totally different . Like i said i find the videos very helpful , thanks
Very precise and educational
Wow ... now I'm getting an education! I have a new found respect for Ashcrofts and the like!
Matt Allen like that for me too. Sometimes a can of worms sometimes a pleasure to learn more about stuff i thought I knew about. ( does that make sense? )
***** Perfect sense ... I'm always up for extra curricular edumacationals ... lol
Is there a crush washer on the Defender 2.4 Transfer box? I heard there isn't but aren't sure?
Later Defenders have a shim to size which are not collapsible (as is already the case in our 2005 Td5). There are 20 different lengths in 0,025mm increments.
@@jorisderoeck5907 I'm still putting up with the leak and haven't done the job yet but now I know. Thanks
@@andrewhoward7200Land Rover describes a complex way of determining the shims size with the aid of several special tools. Take a look at th-cam.com/video/YE-nfj4K2zs/w-d-xo.html for a simple way to measure it. Make sure to look the whole playlist, there's some good additional info and tips there.
wow! Just been having wonderful experience watching these educational videos. Has greatly helped me in solving some of the technical challenges I've had on my Discovery 1. Thanks a lot!!!!
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Alberto Brody Instablaster :)
@Mason Arturo thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Mason Arturo it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out!
@Alberto Brody no problem xD
Thanks for the videos
fellowsrj you are welcome. They wouldn't be possible with the help from Bearmach I must add.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the intermediate gear had to be shimmed to reduce the end float,
so when pre loading the stress on the case is reduced ?
I only know this as I have an old R/R, case, cracked between the hole for the intermediate gear and the cover plate because of this very problem ???
Ah,....That will be the earlier LT230 which is a different setup and indeed does use shims. This later type LT230T uses the compression of the casing.
@@trailerfitter2 thanks for your reply.
But I prefer the set up using shims
Putting the casing under constant stresses seems counter intuitive to me,
Cheers
Good video overall Not sure about using a pin punch to put the bearing in though.
Anything softer than the bearing race is not going to damage it.