Part 2/4: Chrysler FWD 3.2/3.6 Oil pump "Shortcut"
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Motorcity Mechanic
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(408) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
What a fantastic educator!
You sir, have a God given gift of teaching. Thank you for all these blessings.
Best video I’ve seen on this I bought a journey with a weak pump fixing change it out
You want an even more of a short cut...you can just cut and solder the solenoid wiring and use a marine heat shrink to keep the solder protected. Just make sure before you cut the wire have the old solenoid hanging to match the wires to the new solenoid. Worked like a charm and didn't have to remove the axle.
@Nastyhabitz there's so many fake mechanics out there who think they're fuckin geniuses but they're half retarded. I see fucked up shit from back yard "mechanics" every day
I know this is extremely late but would the solder cause some kind of resistance? Looking to do this project soon and trying to figure it out before i go in there
@@chrisday0707 nah you only worry that if you're dealing with delicate sensors or circuits like the CAN bus. It's a solenoid. As long as you solder it well, you'll be fine. Zero comebacks from my customers, so I know it works!
What’s so hard about removing that pigtail tho…
@@dillonweigel3101you save time removing the axle shaft. They at times can rust and they won't come out... also it's a good alternative to get it done.
Don't let any negative comments regarding your explanation or the time you take to do the job discourage you.. really awesome videos. Keep it up. 👍It's appreciated.
Many thanks for that support and backing. I do have the best viewers of all channels for sure!
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I used the Koken 2441M-10 10mm swivel socket and it worked like a charm. It has their nut grip technology (which removes the need for the paper trick for re-installation), and it cost less than $30 on their USA distributor website.
Awesome tip…much appreciated
I always look for a repair job's point of no return where one needs to keep going to completion. That point for me was when the electrical connector was pushed through the block at 3:53.
Same here
Just completed this over the weekend on a 2012 Grand Caravan. Getting the solenoid connector spring clip back into place was the biggest issue. Solution: i used 90deg snap ring pliers to grab and expand the clip and came from the wheel direction(beside belt tensioner) and released the clip over top the connector then forced it into its slot. It felt a litte loose (maybe i stretched it) so to ensure it stayed I dabbed some gasket maker onto the clip. P066DD code cleared and hasn't come back.
Very detailed yet straight to the point!
Awesome videos! 👍
You make very good videos! Keep up the good work!
This is an amazing series! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks you are the best, I use a 1/4 flexible extension and 1/4 10mm short swivel socket just to put it on posicion and then i use 3/8 10mm swivel socket with the torque wrench
I do not have that particular car, but the information is valuable to me. Great job!
Many thanks for watching
Thank you, my 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan didn't pass the smog check due oil vaporizer sensor, I changed it, but the code still appeared, probably I will need to change the oil pump. Thanks for posting this great video. Now I do have an idea how to replace the oil pump...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talent...
MAY GOD BLESS YOUR LIFE BROTHER...
IN JESUS NAME....
EMUNAH
If you take about 24" of 14 gauge wire strip about 1/2" off each end and coil the center around the socket and strike it on a battery a couple of times you can magnetism the socket
For the difficult 10mm bolts… you can use some electrical tape and tape them to the swivel! Once the bolts are started, you can pull the swivel / tape off the bolt. My usual trick for the hard to get a bolt started areas!
Your videos are the best. Very detailed and so much information. Wish you had one on removing the timing chain cover on 3.2L front wheel drive. You do an awesome job. Thanks
this video helped me soooo much! Thank you! MAC also has the socket for 37.99 as of 07/2022. hope that helps for the guys that deal with MAC
Hola, David, conoces muy bien motores Chrysler, gracias por tus videos, saludos desde Guatemala.
Muchas gracias por las amables palabras. Te agradezco que estés viendo. Me alegra ver que personas de todo el mundo están mirando.
This is very helpful. Thank you!
Another 10mm wrench gets worked over I see. Or socket...lol Great video David
I bet every mechanic has a 10mm wrench that has been heated up and bent to a certain shape they need lol.
The electrical connector was by far the hardest part of the job. I wasn't sure how to get at the bolts for the cv axel, or what was entailed in removing it anyway. I would have tried to undo the bolts if I knew whether or not that would allow me to just push the axel out of the way or if I would have to pull the whole axel. Regardless, I didn't pull it. I did pull the belt tensioner which gave me a bit more room. I still could not get the clip to break free and let me push the connector through. I struggled at it for well over an hour. I eventually took a long straight blade screw driver and put it at the base of the connector where it comes through case and hit it with a hammer and broke off all of the connector that was on the outside of the frame. Once I broke it off the rest was easy to push through. I was a little worried doing that, but the new pump has a replacement connector. I also could not get at the metal clip since I didn't pull the cv axel. I ended up just forcing the edges out wide enough to pop off the sides instead of slipping it out which is pretty much what I did to get the new clip on.
It’s a struggle for sure. On some I have removed the axle, just depends. Thanks for the feedback and for watching the video
@@MotorCityMechanic Thank you for the video. It was a difficult job because things were hard to get at, but I was only able to do it because of your video. A lot better than back in the day when I had to run to the library and make photo copies of the Chilton's. I don't remember seeing if you take donations, though I am not rich, which I why I did this on my own, but I did quite a bit doing on my own.
Look at my post...you're gonna cry.
Hi David.....good job bro.........keep going...👏👏👏👏👏👏
Many thanks!
+++k+k koko
Ty appreciate your time
Your welcome and thanks for watching this series of videos. Make sure to subscribe.
Great series
Thanks Garth, I appreciate the comment and make sure to subscribe.
Very well done.
Exelente amigo
What I did on a 2015 dodge caravan
The clip is easy all you need is a flat head screwdriver , from behind the crossmember straight to the side of the block get the flat of the screwdriver between the pin and block then twist to put back on you fit the clip over the new one and wiggle it into place
Did you do it without removing the cv axle?
@@leolpz5705 the caravan was up on ramps, so no removing of any thing started with removing the clip only
Sweet part 2
Appreciate it man!
hi dave the snap on is crazy price but those are better then all brands I have the common sizes I just replaced a front driveshaft on a 05 grand Cherokee with the hemi one of the diff flange bolts snapped with low torque is this common to this ? thank you if you comment....dave
Great video bro see you next time
For sure! Next week hopefully!
JASIggles this is a bit of a nightmare working under the vehicle. Getting to that CV axle mount is really tough. Any more details on that would be super helpful.
Yeah that mount is one of the hardest items to deal with. Some people pop the outer cv shaft off at that mount and then you have more room....its not always that easy however. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe.
MotorCity Mechanic I ended up pulling off the belt tensioner assembly. I was able to gain pretty good access that way.
I appreciate that tip Jeffrey!
Hey guys just in case you dont need the snap on driver you can get the duralast 10 PC 10mm socket set no tissue paper needed also I did remove the axle bracket flipped it back, and also I did remove the tension pulley , I had a hard time pressing the oil pressure solenoid tab with my finger trying to pull it off, but I had some extra long needle nose pliers and pulled it off , once I got it off I basically didnt care how the retainer got off, I got it off with my nail, I did spray it down with wd 40 pressed the tab got it started while pushing it in by hand as far as I could, after that I used a pry bar/metal scraper to push it all the way out, now the crazy part is pushing the new selonoid adapter back through my van was on one jack stand , so your arm will get tired trying to hold the pump and push it back through, also to make it easy the bracket that holds the selonoid wire needs to come off, if you deside not to put it back dont worry because it's out of the way also once you do get it in the hole , get those long needle nose pliers ready so you can lineit and up gently tap it back into position, also I used a 1/4 extension to a 3/8 extension with the 10mm swivel socket, I also had my Milwaukee drill on deck, with my ratchet 3/8 and I also have a 1/4 ratchet which came in handy, it took me a long time to get that selonoid connector off I was thinking if it takes me two days I dont care, but I got it all done from the morning to the evening, also when you go to put the oil pump back up make sure your chain is still hanging on the sprocket correctly mine had to come back down cuz it had came completely off smh, also the tensioner on the chain I just moved the metal piece around the round thing that helps it apply tension with my finger and put it back on the same way, hope this helps, cause my man sure makes it look easy, I'm pretty sure I had a small allen rench some where but not small enough and long enough to go through that hole and hold the tensioner.
Also definitely take the tire off that side and remove the plastic behind it to get to the tensioner pulley two plastic clips and two 13mm bolts, and most definitely get a flat scraper/pry bar ,because you will bend that oil pan ,soon as I seen that it was bending with the flat head just to get it started with the oil pan, I went straight to autozone, that's also where I got the 10mm socket set ,and by the way god is good because there was only one left.
I think this is actually easier to get to the 4 10mm bolts on the dodge chargers. both oil pans are different.
I would buy two of the Astro and just grind one down to match the snap-on or go further..
Not a bad idea....could work possibly. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
Man you are a lifesaver. I have a 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan it was having a code and I changed the oil pressure sensor and the car was still having it and I ended up changing the entire engine cooling housing and I cleared the code and I still have it. Do you think the problem is the oil pump?
Did you ever change your pump? Was this the solution?
Well done !!!!
Thank you 🫡
Rear wheel drive, I'm having hard time getting that electric cord through. Not enough room to my hand in there. I tried needle nose pliers. Any suggestions?
What's your secret for taking the CV axle off the engine? That top bolt is a royal pain to get at from underneath.
Shouldn't a regular swivel with a 10mm socket work just as well?
I have tried and the angle and height doesn’t fit. Once you add the two together it’s much higher then this set up in the video
Makes sense! Come to find out I'm needing to replace my timing chains. Could I do it without the cam holders? I have everything at tdc right but haven't removed the chains because I don't want anything to hit on the inside engine. Could I use 4 adjustable wrenches to hold positions on the cam slots made for wrenches, shouldn't this theoretically hold the cams mostly in place to reduce the risk of damaging engine internally. Or will the phasers gears that the chain is sitting around spin separately from the cam itself? Thanks for any input you have!
Note, this is on my personal vehicle I've never had a customer request this job quite yet, that's why I don't really want to purchase and wait on cam holders if I don't have to
What code did you have to warrant the oil pump replacement?
Mine was P06DE
I have been battling the famous p06dd code and may have to change the pump about how long should this pump change take me without the commentary
??? Is it the same way on a RWD 2017 300 same steps or is it different
You have a video about a 3.6L engine timing chain?
I dont have any as of yet.....in the future I hope. I thing everyone is getting tired of me doing 3.6 videos lately lol.
I'm about ready to trade in my 200 for a Ram...How is the reliability of the 1500? What should I look for?
Can the solenoid be replaced without removing pump is it enough room or do you have to atleast unscrew bolts
I don’t do just the solenoid and I only use the Mopar oil pump from experience
If you unbolt the CV axle support, can you rotate it down out of the way for better access to the connector without removing the axle?
It can help in some cases
Would this work for a 4WD Ram 1500 with the 3.6? I'd assume so but not sure
O had barrels in my oil pan where sis they come from and is it important
The 10 mm swivel socket is 25.00 on eBay .
You can find people selling them from time to time....just make sure its the snap-on version...it has the shortest profile. Thanks for the tip Andre
MotorCity Mechanic , yes it is snap on and by the way thanks for this video you are saving me a lot of money when I can do it myself.
@@andrecummings13 Always happy to help.
What code did you have to warrant the oil pump replacement?
Does this short cut work on wranglers
Wrangler has a one piece oil pan. Can’t use the shortcut but the pan is easy to get to. Once off it’s all the same. Thanks for watching
How long it’s the snap on socket? Do you think it’s a way to cut one regular swivel socket?
It's about an inch and a quarter. I bought a gear wrench socket, part number 80256 and had to cut it shorter with a hacksaw
Is the gear timed in anyway?
Will this work on 15 charger? Thanks
how much did the new pump cost
Is there a reason this wouldn’t work on a Jeep Wrangler JK? Since it’s 4wd
On the wrangler you dont have the same access....the pan is a different design. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
MotorCity Mechanic absolutely a subscriber. I did figure that out about the access. By watching another TH-camr change his JK wrangler pump. I changed my oil filter assembly and did not clear my P06dd code. I am pretty confident the oil pump would fix the issue. I had one shop quote $750 to change my ball joints and the oil pump. Very eager where other shops don’t really want the oil pump job. Or say I probably have other problems. Want to attempt myself. Working up the courage, don’t want to create more problems or leaks breaking the on seal
Hard earned bacon is the user....his JK video references yours.
Also the quote of $750 is with me supplying the oil pump and ball joints
Steve P I will have to check it out when I get time. Thanks
Can Anyone confirm if the 2012 dodge Carvan is the same as the one in the video
Its front wheel drive (FWD) so yes it is. Thanks for asking and for watching, Make sure to subscribe
Great video if the engine is removed like in your video.
Same procedure no matter if in or out of the vehicle. Only reason it’s out in the video is to show as much detail as possible.
no gasket or rtv, eh?
The connector is facing toward the front to the side you cannot get to and there is no room to push the clip in , I’ve been working on Jeep’s for 35 years and this Jeep is sucking my will to live
Who thought putting a solenoid there was a good idea?
Mine is the Jeep rear wheel drive and the rack has to be removed. I mean really? To replace a solenoid on my vehicle the rack has to be removed? Unbelievable.
I bet you could shave down that cheaper swivel socket
crack the old pump open and see what failed in it just for the curiousity
Those that I have taken apart.....you cant see any thing obvious.
TMUSM10A
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