There you go getting me through my darkest hour once again. You give so much good information, very detailed. You give me the confidence to tackle my deepest fears. You are literally my therapist. Thank you for all you do!!!
Just seeing and reading this. Wow….I appreciate those kind words. Some days you wonder what am I doing and is it really making a difference….then I read comments like yours. Many thanks for pick me up….it works both ways. To many comments about how the intro is annoying or took tooooooo long to get to the point. Again…..THANK YOU!!
Thanks a lot for the entire video series (the book, and shortcut). They really helped me a lot. My 3.2 was in a 2015 Jeep Cherokee. They do not have a lower steel pan, it's all one piece. So, the removal of the pan is actually a little easier, and best of all - once you get it off - there is no special socket required. One thing to note with this type of set up, is the oil dip stick was seized and it is best to keep in in place when removing the pan. A little wiggling and boom - it's out...Another thing that is a must is a small 90 degree prybar - to break the seal of the mopar threebond sealant - of which is a MUST USE to reseal the pan. Thanks again for these videos!!
i have been a wrench for 45 years and i love your professionalization and you cover it all i am new to dodge thank you i am working on fleet maintenance ond have a lot of po6dd and i think some are oil pumps thanks for your knowledge
Outstanding video! Being an auto mechanic for 33 years, I am humble enough to search for tips on things I haven't done yet. I watch a lot of videos now that It's so much easier than going back to college again. This is one of the best overall quality videos on the subject that I was looking for. Curious though, what is the most common reason for replacing this solenoid? I replaced my pressure sensor twice with a Mopar part and still showing 81 psi of pressure at idle so here I go.
Did this job yesterday. I don’t have a lot of experience but I took my time and got my 2011 Dodge Charger back on the road with a new oil pump! There were slight differences in the procedures as it is a rear wheel drive but these videos were so helpful. For some reason, the pickup tube was a lot bigger and I ended up having to unbolt it from the pump while it was in the car to get them out. A real pain but well worth it. Hope some of you out there see this and are encouraged to do this job. If I can do it, y’all can!
Awesome job Sam! As you saw the different vehicles have some different things that need to come off in order to access the pump. That tube is a pain to get off for sure on that vehicle. Appreciate you finding this video series and for taking the time to comment. Always glad to hear how things go when following my videos. Make sure to subscribe!
Thanks for showing us the short cut. Just change the oil pump in my promaster. The hardest part was getting that stupid plastic connector clip out. I had to do this replacement twice because the first replacement pump was defective(aftermarket replacement). End up get the mopar oil pump for the second time and a lot easier to remove the plastic connector. If anyone have issue with remove the connector, just use the same tool as shown and wiggle the plier while pushing it out. Thanks again for the detail video.
SUCCESS! Did this job from under the van without any prep other than removing the plastic shield (10mm bolts). 1st hard part was breaking the oil pan seal. (Just figure you are going to be there a while. Take is slow.) 2nd hard part was removing the sensor. (Snip the internal wires as you are taking the old pump out. You can't see the whole connector so you need to remove the metal clip and then press in the plastic clip by touch. This took me 2 hours. I could not get the connector to move in. I assume I couldn't get the clip fully pushed in. I ended up grabbing the connector with a long handled side cutter from inside the oil case. I intended to snip it in half and push it through to the outside but with that grip and pushing at the clip from the outside it popped out. Hints: 1) After the new connector is installed, the spring clip can be installed by sliding it over the top of the connector instead of from the side. 2) Have more than one putty knife. Mine bent and got damaged edges so I was concerned that it might scrape the surfaces. I think I used a 1" putty knife. 3) A floor creeper is a must have. 4) Lay a 4' shop light under the vehicle. And then have flashlights. Any small flexible neck lights would have been nice to have. The job took me 11 hours. I spent zero time removing items that were in the way but paid for that in the time spent battling with the cramped surroundings. But, it can be done! :)
Hi ..david...you always bring us a great video with a very important details maybe some of us they didn’t know that and save engine for damages and save money 💰....I don’t know what to say about you .....you have agreat soul..........thank you pro....👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Outstanding videos for everything you put out there!!!I'm not finding in any videos from anyone is how to prime the new pump when replacing. I have a new engine, new pump installed. Do I just turn the crankshaft using the starter and have the plugs taken out? If so how many times do I use the starter and how will I know I've reached appropriate pressure?
Hey David, with this series and your original 5 part series on the "by the book" oil pump replacement you have specified FWD models. Should I be terribly concerned about differences in procedure if I'm looking to do this repair on a 4WD Jeep Cherokee KL?
Been researching about my 3.6 T&C Town and Country as well. This gave me enough courage to change my own OIL Pump. Had the dreaded P06DA and I know it's not the Oil Sensor because (P0520) that was changed 2 years ago. Thanks again for your informative, clear, and professional diy videos. Def. subscribe and use the link :)
Back in my day cheap wrenches weren't that easy to get. So a lot of good wrenches got the treatment. Still was more than worth it. Especially home made header wrenches. A lot of Sears wrenches got it back when they make good tools. I replaced them next time I hit Sears....lol
To remove the oil pan you can remove one of the studs from the oil pan (the one closest to the drain plug), grab a heavy dead blow mallet and give it some blows to the sides to break the sealant, it worked nice for me, just try to deliver them on the stronger parts of the pan. Surely a steel mallet and a piece of wood can do the trick.
What engine code are you trying to clear? I've had P06da. I've changed the oil pressure sensor and the wiring harness for it. After replacing both, the code comes back up almost immediately. This is on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 3.6
Will this method work on rear wheel drives? I need to replace my oil pump on my 2017 Jeep Wrangler. Everything looks the same, but I'm wondering if I will encounter the same components once I remove the lower oil pan?
I'm trying to diag the wifes 04 Chrysler T&C. It has an internal noise that similar to a lifter and is RPM based. I tested the lifters and they're fine. I'm wondering if the oil pump was going out, but can't find a video on what noise that makes. Also these cars lack oil pressure gauges so it's hard for me to tell right now. What type of noise does it make on these vehicles?
On this channel do you show how to verify the oil pump solenoid is faulty? I read 7.8volts key on engine running with the connector open and the scan tool shows that it is off all the time.
I have changed the temp sensor, oil pump.& solenoid, am Running a Mopar oil filter torqued to 18 foot pounds. Running Mobile 1 5W30 oil. Still getting random P06DD codes. I didn't reset the computer, only cleared the code with s scanner following the oil pump change. I will try resetting the computer. After that I'm at a loss for the cause.
I'm back, initially I had two trouble codes on my 2014 grand caravan. P066D and both camshaft sensors were reading slow. These trouble codes were accompanied by a lack of acceleration and a dashboard light (car on hills). Replaced the oil pump and P066D code was gone and power was restored but my camshafts codes are still present. Haven't confirmed yet but I'm betting either I have a significant sludge problem or the oil pump has been bad for so long that there is wear on the lobes ?
Is this a Mopar pump? If so, what's the part #? Because manufactures sell the pump. But don't include the O ring for the oil pump pickup tube. Does this apply to a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Laredo 3.6?
Hey, I’m going to be doing my oil pump and solenoid on my 2011 charger 3.6. What and where can I find the gaskets and parts I need. I’m a diesel tech but I’ve been turning bolts since I was 8. Please help me with what parts I will need to do the job. Also how long would you say it will take to do the job? Thank you awesome videos
Pesonally I would do the oil pump assembly that comes with the solenoid. I hate for the solenoid not fix it and you have to do the same job twice. As far as parts.....I recommend the Mopar replacements. I am not a big fan of aftermarket parts......to many times spent replacing the same part multiple times. That means either getting them from the dealer or online from one of the many wholesale dealers. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe
The main differences are that there is no shortcut.....another is the service info states that the lower subframe/crossmember has to be removed. Lots of work for sure. Nothing easy of quick about this.
I have a 2013 Chrysler 200 3.6L. The only code I have is P06DD. I changed the oil pressure sensor, and the code is still popping up. Now I am replacing the oil filter housing because I saw a puddle of oil when replacing the sensor. And if after replacing the housing, then I will do the oil pump.
Same direction I'm in on a 15' Grand Cherokee. I'm going to tackle everything up top first and leave the oil pump as last resort. Be sure to get the aluminum version of the oil filter cooler.
Hi Dave code po6DD still exist after I changed my oil pump ,oil pressure sensor,mopar oil filter, 5w20 oil and also replaced broken bypass valve what else am I missing ? Thanks for reply
Are all Pentastar 3.6l engines the same from 2011 to 2018? I have noticed that on the 2011 manuals says to use 5w-30 and the 2017-2018 manuals says to use 0w-20 oil. If the engines are exactly the same I find it strange to allow 0w-20 to be used in place of 5w-30 because there would be more wear in using 0w-20, is that correct? I only compared with the 2011 caravan manual to the 2017 manual. Also are all Pentastar 3.6L engines Flex fuel or the Flex Fuel version has something in the block that the gas only version does not have? On mine 2011 it just says gas, but I noticed many of the 2014 and newer are all flex.
They have made some changes on the newer models.....they added a system call VVL which is the maini reason for the change in oil. There are some differences between these engines. Its all vehicle and year specific so I recommend checking what your vehicle needs.
David I got so many bent wrenches and specialized made sockets and crap over the years. Most that I made 20 or 40 years ago are outdated today. If we ever go back to common sense engines I'll be a millionaire making those tools since I made the pattern already...lol
I used a regular everyday putty knife you can by at your local hardware store. Nothing special. The razor blade dragged at 90' angle seems to work the best for me. Thanks for asking and sorry for the delay
Dave, do you have a video on a 13 challenger. The pick up tube is different from the Chrysler video. Its way in there. Do I need a special tool beside the socket
Not common that I have found. Typically the trans bolts get stripped from over tightening and also from not removing all the old RTV from the threaded bore or the end of the bolt before tightening the bolt. Appreciate the comment and for you watching. Make sure to subscribe
Happened to me because I was an idiot and used the wrong torque scale and ignored my intuition that it was way too tight. This potentially can lead to oil leaking out through the gap along the gasket, especially as it gets older. Also, you'll find that NONE of the parts stores carry the proper drill bits for that small of a bolt size. I had to find some on eBay. If you're supremely lucky, you can still get the old bolt out and just replace it, but likely you'll also need to rebore it or the like. :(
Changed the sensor on top of the engine and whole cooler changed the oil pump and the solenoid and still car drives like crap and check engine light comes back before I make it to the corner 😭😭😭😭😭
It works best on direct injection engines and we dont have any other then the diesel at this point. Its more for looks then fro solving any issues that arent currently there.
Most technicians today have more problems with there arms and shoulders because of holding there arms up so much Painters also. Really any job were your arms are above your head causes a lot of problems down the road
Hope not David...I got tendinitis in both my shoulder from just working on cars part time and my regular job as tool and die maker. Seems like its always something. Hope you never get it.
My neighbor was previously a house painter (inside and outside) and is now semi-retired. Just last year he had an operation to work on vertebrae in his neck for this very reason.
The shortcut will have you bitting your lip as your trying to access those 2 hard to get to bolts plus going to need that socket. Some times the struggle is worth the reward. Sometimes not. Some other shop had "painted" the drain plug to cover their rear I suppose to see if anyone had messed with it. No cake decorating on my part lol
@@MotorCityMechanic What good would marking a part that is often 'messed with' do? Curious. I know that most people use that when changing the oil, so it's not like it would be suspicious.
@@jwhiteheadcc Some shops do that to verify that no one messed with it when the customer comes back to complain. I never have done that and our shop doesnt either.
@@MotorCityMechanic Ah, OK, I kind of figured, but I remember seeing people bring PCs back that they messed up again, and then the screws (all identical) I replaced theirs with, were all mixed up. That or the 'easy-turn' ones they had on their were not in the same spots as before I fixed it the last time. Typical BS-from-users computer repair stories. XD
Unfortunately this guide is not compatible with the 2016 200 3.6. the oil pan is just one large piece now and the exhaust assembly is also different too please don't do what I did. People make sure you check before you start the job. This became way bigger because I brought the wrong tools for the wrong job
I just did this today on my friends 2012, Chrysler 300 V6 with a 36 when I put it all back together started it up. Ran just fine sounded perfect. Javi brought it home. Started it and it started making a weird noise like a ticking noise then it goes away when you drive it after two minutes once you turn the car off and start again same noise, what could I have done wrong?
There you go getting me through my darkest hour once again. You give so much good information, very detailed. You give me the confidence to tackle my deepest fears. You are literally my therapist. Thank you for all you do!!!
Just seeing and reading this. Wow….I appreciate those kind words. Some days you wonder what am I doing and is it really making a difference….then I read comments like yours. Many thanks for pick me up….it works both ways. To many comments about how the intro is annoying or took tooooooo long to get to the point. Again…..THANK YOU!!
Just completed this job on my town & country with 3.6 pen taster engine. Thank you so much. Could not have done it without your tutorials.
Thanks a lot for the entire video series (the book, and shortcut). They really helped me a lot. My 3.2 was in a 2015 Jeep Cherokee. They do not have a lower steel pan, it's all one piece. So, the removal of the pan is actually a little easier, and best of all - once you get it off - there is no special socket required. One thing to note with this type of set up, is the oil dip stick was seized and it is best to keep in in place when removing the pan. A little wiggling and boom - it's out...Another thing that is a must is a small 90 degree prybar - to break the seal of the mopar threebond sealant - of which is a MUST USE to reseal the pan. Thanks again for these videos!!
Where is the electrical connector on these?
i have been a wrench for 45 years and i love your professionalization and you cover it all i am new to dodge thank you
i am working on fleet maintenance ond have a lot of po6dd and i think some are oil pumps thanks for your knowledge
Outstanding video! Being an auto mechanic for 33 years, I am humble enough to search for tips on things I haven't done yet. I watch a lot of videos now that It's so much easier than going back to college again. This is one of the best overall quality videos on the subject that I was looking for. Curious though, what is the most common reason for replacing this solenoid? I replaced my pressure sensor twice with a Mopar part and still showing 81 psi of pressure at idle so here I go.
Did this job yesterday. I don’t have a lot of experience but I took my time and got my 2011 Dodge Charger back on the road with a new oil pump! There were slight differences in the procedures as it is a rear wheel drive but these videos were so helpful. For some reason, the pickup tube was a lot bigger and I ended up having to unbolt it from the pump while it was in the car to get them out. A real pain but well worth it. Hope some of you out there see this and are encouraged to do this job. If I can do it, y’all can!
Awesome job Sam! As you saw the different vehicles have some different things that need to come off in order to access the pump. That tube is a pain to get off for sure on that vehicle. Appreciate you finding this video series and for taking the time to comment. Always glad to hear how things go when following my videos. Make sure to subscribe!
Is the pump in the same place on the rwd?
This was great. The hardest part was putting the clip back on. The job took me about 5 hours. Thanks
Thanks for showing us the short cut. Just change the oil pump in my promaster. The hardest part was getting that stupid plastic connector clip out. I had to do this replacement twice because the first replacement pump was defective(aftermarket replacement). End up get the mopar oil pump for the second time and a lot easier to remove the plastic connector. If anyone have issue with remove the connector, just use the same tool as shown and wiggle the plier while pushing it out. Thanks again for the detail video.
Great impact tutorials, I'm stoked to have found this site. Labor time down and profits up.
Your creating a great library for all who want to work on there Dodge/Chrysler's. Nice work.
I am trying to pretty much to become the go to source for Chrysler branded vehicle repairs. Its the only thing I know anyway lol
This video is amazing and has helped so much!
Thank u David. Waiting for part two.
Soon enough my friend! Thanks for always watching
SUCCESS! Did this job from under the van without any prep other than removing the plastic shield (10mm bolts). 1st hard part was breaking the oil pan seal. (Just figure you are going to be there a while. Take is slow.) 2nd hard part was removing the sensor. (Snip the internal wires as you are taking the old pump out. You can't see the whole connector so you need to remove the metal clip and then press in the plastic clip by touch. This took me 2 hours. I could not get the connector to move in. I assume I couldn't get the clip fully pushed in. I ended up grabbing the connector with a long handled side cutter from inside the oil case. I intended to snip it in half and push it through to the outside but with that grip and pushing at the clip from the outside it popped out.
Hints:
1) After the new connector is installed, the spring clip can be installed by sliding it over the top of the connector instead of from the side.
2) Have more than one putty knife. Mine bent and got damaged edges so I was concerned that it might scrape the surfaces. I think I used a 1" putty knife.
3) A floor creeper is a must have.
4) Lay a 4' shop light under the vehicle. And then have flashlights. Any small flexible neck lights would have been nice to have.
The job took me 11 hours. I spent zero time removing items that were in the way but paid for that in the time spent battling with the cramped surroundings. But, it can be done! :)
Awesome....great job doing the pump. Appreciate all the tips as well. Make sure to subscribe and Merry Christmas Jim!
Hi ..david...you always bring us a great video with a very important details maybe some of us they didn’t know that and save engine for damages and save money 💰....I don’t know what to say about you .....you have agreat soul..........thank you pro....👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Many thanks for always following and for the kind words!
REALLY well made video!!!!
Thank you for doing this. Great video!
Your welcome and thank you as well
Best compliment I can give is Subscribed.
I rarely comment on anything but you are a MASTER in explaining this repair, looking forward to doing this myself in a few days. Thank you!
Outstanding videos for everything you put out there!!!I'm not finding in any videos from anyone is how to prime the new pump when replacing. I have a new engine, new pump installed. Do I just turn the crankshaft using the starter and have the plugs taken out? If so how many times do I use the starter and how will I know I've reached appropriate pressure?
Hey David, with this series and your original 5 part series on the "by the book" oil pump replacement you have specified FWD models. Should I be terribly concerned about differences in procedure if I'm looking to do this repair on a 4WD Jeep Cherokee KL?
Been researching about my 3.6 T&C Town and Country as well. This gave me enough courage to change my own OIL Pump.
Had the dreaded P06DA and I know it's not the Oil Sensor because (P0520) that was changed 2 years ago.
Thanks again for your informative, clear, and professional diy videos.
Def. subscribe and use the link :)
Eres lo máximo en toda la información bro
que dice el amigo tengo un pedon con un error p06dd de un 300 2013 3.6 y nadie sabe que onda
Back in my day cheap wrenches weren't that easy to get. So a lot of good wrenches got the treatment. Still was more than worth it. Especially home made header wrenches. A lot of Sears wrenches got it back when they make good tools. I replaced them next time I hit Sears....lol
I hear ya lol.
Can the pump be taken out through the steel pan on a 2017 dodge charger 3.6?
To remove the oil pan you can remove one of the studs from the oil pan (the one closest to the drain plug), grab a heavy dead blow mallet and give it some blows to the sides to break the sealant, it worked nice for me, just try to deliver them on the stronger parts of the pan. Surely a steel mallet and a piece of wood can do the trick.
Another great video throwing the Chiltons out!!!! Loo
Awesome!
Many thanks!
Do you have a video like this for a 3.6 Wrangler JK or similar auto with the same engine? The FWD is much different
What engine code are you trying to clear? I've had P06da. I've changed the oil pressure sensor and the wiring harness for it. After replacing both, the code comes back up almost immediately. This is on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 3.6
Will this method work on rear wheel drives? I need to replace my oil pump on my 2017 Jeep Wrangler. Everything looks the same, but I'm wondering if I will encounter the same components once I remove the lower oil pan?
I'm trying to diag the wifes 04 Chrysler T&C. It has an internal noise that similar to a lifter and is RPM based. I tested the lifters and they're fine. I'm wondering if the oil pump was going out, but can't find a video on what noise that makes. Also these cars lack oil pressure gauges so it's hard for me to tell right now. What type of noise does it make on these vehicles?
it is the same procedure for a 2012 dodge charger - 3.6?
Muy bien !! 👍
¡Muchas gracias amigo!
On this channel do you show how to verify the oil pump solenoid is faulty? I read 7.8volts key on engine running with the connector open and the scan tool shows that it is off all the time.
I have changed the temp sensor, oil pump.& solenoid, am Running a Mopar oil filter torqued to 18 foot pounds. Running Mobile 1 5W30 oil. Still getting random P06DD codes.
I didn't reset the computer, only cleared the code with s scanner following the oil pump change. I will try resetting the computer. After that I'm at a loss for the cause.
Will this work on the RWD 2011 charger? 3.6 vvt
How much do you typically charge for this job when the motor is in the vehicle?
Howdy David, thanks for the video subscribed. Have you seen this code/fault accompanied by a limp mode no acceleration or camshaft sensor codes?
I'm back, initially I had two trouble codes on my 2014 grand caravan. P066D and both camshaft sensors were reading slow. These trouble codes were accompanied by a lack of acceleration and a dashboard light (car on hills). Replaced the oil pump and P066D code was gone and power was restored but my camshafts codes are still present. Haven't confirmed yet but I'm betting either I have a significant sludge problem or the oil pump has been bad for so long that there is wear on the lobes ?
What's the difference on a Concorde?
Is this a Mopar pump? If so, what's the part #? Because manufactures sell the pump. But don't include the O ring for the oil pump pickup tube. Does this apply to a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Laredo 3.6?
Great video
Thanks Antonio!
MotorCity Mechanic your very welcome brother one mechanic to another very nice set of short cuts so far cant wait to watch the other 3
Appreciate the peer feedback man!
MotorCity Mechanic no problem keep up the great work
I sure will!
Hey, I’m going to be doing my oil pump and solenoid on my 2011 charger 3.6. What and where can I find the gaskets and parts I need. I’m a diesel tech but I’ve been turning bolts since I was 8. Please help me with what parts I will need to do the job. Also how long would you say it will take to do the job? Thank you awesome videos
Pesonally I would do the oil pump assembly that comes with the solenoid. I hate for the solenoid not fix it and you have to do the same job twice. As far as parts.....I recommend the Mopar replacements. I am not a big fan of aftermarket parts......to many times spent replacing the same part multiple times. That means either getting them from the dealer or online from one of the many wholesale dealers. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe
Where where is the oil pump located at on a 4.6 Ford Triton V8
Does anyone know if the shortcut method would work the RWD 3.6 motors found in Jeep Wranglers?
What was wrong with the old pump?
What are the differences between replacing an oil pump on front wheel cars with a 3.6 pentastar compared to a grand cherokee 4x4 with a 3.6 pentastar.
The main differences are that there is no shortcut.....another is the service info states that the lower subframe/crossmember has to be removed. Lots of work for sure. Nothing easy of quick about this.
What in the world is a U1412 code in s 2007 Chrysler Sebring... nobody knows what it means. Thanks
I have a 2013 Chrysler 200 3.6L. The only code I have is P06DD. I changed the oil pressure sensor, and the code is still popping up. Now I am replacing the oil filter housing because I saw a puddle of oil when replacing the sensor. And if after replacing the housing, then I will do the oil pump.
Same direction I'm in on a 15' Grand Cherokee. I'm going to tackle everything up top first and leave the oil pump as last resort. Be sure to get the aluminum version of the oil filter cooler.
Hi Dave code po6DD still exist after I changed my oil pump ,oil pressure sensor,mopar oil filter, 5w20 oil and also replaced broken bypass valve what else am I missing ? Thanks for reply
Have you cleared the code? Could be stored on the computer.
How can I contact you I just bout a 2014 chrysler 300 that needs an oil pump
Are all Pentastar 3.6l engines the same from 2011 to 2018? I have noticed that on the 2011 manuals says to use 5w-30 and the 2017-2018 manuals says to use 0w-20 oil. If the engines are exactly the same I find it strange to allow 0w-20 to be used in place of 5w-30 because there would be more wear in using 0w-20, is that correct? I only compared with the 2011 caravan manual to the 2017 manual. Also are all Pentastar 3.6L engines Flex fuel or the Flex Fuel version has something in the block that the gas only version does not have? On mine 2011 it just says gas, but I noticed many of the 2014 and newer are all flex.
They have made some changes on the newer models.....they added a system call VVL which is the maini reason for the change in oil. There are some differences between these engines. Its all vehicle and year specific so I recommend checking what your vehicle needs.
@@MotorCityMechanic The Upgrade with EGR cooler?
David I got so many bent wrenches and specialized made sockets and crap over the years. Most that I made 20 or 40 years ago are outdated today. If we ever go back to common sense engines I'll be a millionaire making those tools since I made the pattern already...lol
I fully understand what your saying. I will sacrifice a cheap wrench in a heart beat to save some time. Heat....bend....weld. What ever it takes lol.
Common sense engines? Yeah, that won't happen in my lifetime.
@MotorCity Mechanic Does this also apply to a 05' 3.3 caravan?
Nope...completely different engine, nothing this fancy.
@@MotorCityMechanic is it easier or harder to do the 3.3
Did you use the stiff putty knife, or the flex putty knife by Hyper Tough?
David??
I used a regular everyday putty knife you can by at your local hardware store. Nothing special. The razor blade dragged at 90' angle seems to work the best for me. Thanks for asking and sorry for the delay
Dave, do you have a video on a 13 challenger. The pick up tube is different from the Chrysler video. Its way in there. Do I need a special tool beside the socket
How often do the oil pan bolts break or strip out the threads. Tyranny pans are noted for this I noticed
Not common that I have found. Typically the trans bolts get stripped from over tightening and also from not removing all the old RTV from the threaded bore or the end of the bolt before tightening the bolt. Appreciate the comment and for you watching. Make sure to subscribe
Happened to me because I was an idiot and used the wrong torque scale and ignored my intuition that it was way too tight. This potentially can lead to oil leaking out through the gap along the gasket, especially as it gets older. Also, you'll find that NONE of the parts stores carry the proper drill bits for that small of a bolt size. I had to find some on eBay. If you're supremely lucky, you can still get the old bolt out and just replace it, but likely you'll also need to rebore it or the like. :(
Changed the sensor on top of the engine and whole cooler changed the oil pump and the solenoid and still car drives like crap and check engine light comes back before I make it to the corner 😭😭😭😭😭
I have a question , is a oil catch can worth getting?
On this engine....nope. Save your money.
What about for a 6.1 srt8 chrysler 300 06?
It works best on direct injection engines and we dont have any other then the diesel at this point. Its more for looks then fro solving any issues that arent currently there.
Thanks you're a really big help when questions asked💪👌👌
Many thanks
I have the 2011 charger 3.6 rwd. Will this video work for my vehicle?
Mechanics are really good at holding their hands over their heads, aren't they?
The blood stops flowing the same in our arms as anyone else 😂.
Most technicians today have more problems with there arms and shoulders because of holding there arms up so much
Painters also. Really any job were your arms are above your head causes a lot of problems down the road
Im sure it will eventually catch up to me one day for sure.
Hope not David...I got tendinitis in both my shoulder from just working on cars part time and my regular job as tool and die maker. Seems like its always something. Hope you never get it.
My neighbor was previously a house painter (inside and outside) and is now semi-retired. Just last year he had an operation to work on vertebrae in his neck for this very reason.
2.4 Multiair engine please!!!!
I will keep it in mind
@@MotorCityMechanic Does this also apply to a 05' 3.3 caravan?
This cover the 2017 Pacifica 3.6?
I new just the oil pan would be removed. Not all that other crap. David you leave your gun on that oil drain plug ?...lol
The shortcut will have you bitting your lip as your trying to access those 2 hard to get to bolts plus going to need that socket. Some times the struggle is worth the reward. Sometimes not. Some other shop had "painted" the drain plug to cover their rear I suppose to see if anyone had messed with it. No cake decorating on my part lol
@@MotorCityMechanic What good would marking a part that is often 'messed with' do? Curious. I know that most people use that when changing the oil, so it's not like it would be suspicious.
@@jwhiteheadcc Some shops do that to verify that no one messed with it when the customer comes back to complain. I never have done that and our shop doesnt either.
@@MotorCityMechanic Ah, OK, I kind of figured, but I remember seeing people bring PCs back that they messed up again, and then the screws (all identical) I replaced theirs with, were all mixed up. That or the 'easy-turn' ones they had on their were not in the same spots as before I fixed it the last time. Typical BS-from-users computer repair stories. XD
Look up the new air conditioner HFO-1234yf. You want that crap in your newer cars folks? I sure don't
Seems like they are out to kill you
Unfortunately this guide is not compatible with the 2016 200 3.6. the oil pan is just one large piece now and the exhaust assembly is also different too please don't do what I did. People make sure you check before you start the job. This became way bigger because I brought the wrong tools for the wrong job
I just did this today on my friends 2012, Chrysler 300 V6 with a 36 when I put it all back together started it up. Ran just fine sounded perfect. Javi brought it home. Started it and it started making a weird noise like a ticking noise then it goes away when you drive it after two minutes once you turn the car off and start again same noise, what could I have done wrong?