I just did this - P0520 is usually the sensor - P06DD or PO6De can be the solenoid or the pump - but try fixing he P0520 first - then change oil and filter. Might get lucky.
My upper pan is leaking and I need to fix it and this gave me a good look at what I’m going to have to do. No other videos like this on TH-cam. Thank you
No problem I hope it helps. I couldn't find a full video like this either when preparing to do the work so I decided to make sure I filmed everything. Good luck with your fix.
Honestly, when my dad and I saw you hammering from the top to separate the oil pan I thought you were off your rocker. But holy crap, if that's not the ticket to get that dang three bond apart. Many thanks my friend! Got my P06DD code to go away. (had done the oil cooler last year)
You are a real warrior my friend. I’m looking at replacing my upper oil.pan gasket to solve a leak problem. I appreciate your efforts here and sharing your lessons learned.
Thanks for this video, was able to complete most of this project in about 2 hours. But unfortunately I broke the dipstick tube so I'm waiting on a new part to arrive before I can finish. But especially thanks for including the torque specs, much appreciated!!!
You sir, I offer my greatest Thanks! After searching through forums to the issue I was having, my dad and I found your video and watched it multiple times. Without your help, replacing the Oil Pump would have been a multiple day job! We worked with a “retiring” mechanic we know and borrowed his lift which helped but Thanks to You, we were done in a day! You did a tremendous job and made a fine video Sir! Only note for future viewers… we removed the two 10mm hidden bolts and all but 4 of the 13mm bolts on the oil pan so that when we broke the seal it wouldn’t kill us or break on the floor . Our mechanic supervisor helped us on the seals; he stuck a long screw driver into the hidden bolt openings (where the rubber caps rested) and popped the seals loose in a split second… before that my dad and I were having as much trouble as you did ha.
I appreciate you sharing your video. Before TH-cam was around you had to just take your vehicle to a shop but now you can see exactly how to do something and decide if it’s something you can do or not.
In couldn’t get the upper pan to break loose after prying on it for an hour, then I noticed a small tab sticking out on the front, passenger side of the oil pan. I stuck a piece of 1x1 scrap wood that I had down between the radiator and the engine. It only took two taps on the wood from above on that flange to break it free.
I don't know what you do for a living but you would make a great I&E (instrument and electrical)mechanic. I worked in the oil industry and respect your talent.
I did this same repair on my 2013 JK. Drove the front up on car ramps to give me more room under the Jeep. I did not replace the oil pump, I just replaced the solenoid. There is nothing wrong with the oil pump, its only the solenoid that fails. Mopar doesn't sell the solenoid separately. The part number for just the solenoid is J53001. If you Google that part number a number of parts stores sell it for under $85. You still have to remove the whole oil pump from the block because the connector doesn't fit through the opening between the block and the oil pump. Otherwise, its the same job. Great video of the hell we both went through - LOL!
I saw the solenoid was separate at auto parts stores but couldn’t find any info or reviews on it. Didn’t want to risk it failing after a month or something like that lol
I have an oil pressure sensor go off . Code p06da I believe . Mechanic wasted my time and said it was just the sensor. A few hundred later it was not the sensor. I saw online it can relate to a short with the cables or the solenoid. My oil pressure is totally normal. As far as I know it’s a two part pump so I’d pay about 500-600 for the replacement oil pump parts(left and right). I’m not handy enough to do this myself nor do o have the tools so I still have to take it to a mechanic. I wonder how long it will take . For some reason Iv seen people say it takes 11 hours on here with other vehicles
Good ass video bro...you inspire us...man i was so entertained just watching you work...looking foward too seeing part 2 ...to clear the 2nd code you still have...
Ive been looking for a video on how to do this for MONTHS and yours finally popped up. Thank you for the video and guidence. Ill be doing this in a couple weeks. You're awesome good sir. 💪🏽
Dude, that was amazing and very detailed, thanks for your patience on capturing your every move. I have a 2012 JKU that has been throwing the P06DD code for several months. Dealer swapped out my oil cooler assembly due to my filter housing all cracked (stupid plastic design) but that cost $$, had my plugs replaced also since the top end was off. Anyway code came back, went into limp mode once but stopped after I restarted, making me think its that sensor. Dealer wants $900 + to replace but after watching your video I know i can do this, although there will be allot of cussing and bourbon at the end. One question, did new pump come with instructions or at least torque specs. Thanks again for putting this on TH-cam. Cheers.
The new pump didn't come with any instructions or torque specs, I had to look them up. I wrote them down before I started working for quick reference when I got to that step.
I had the P06DD as well, swapped out the oil cooler with one of the newer aluminum assemblies. Got my code off long enough to pass TX inspection, but then it came back. Hopefully the new pump does the trick. If not, I guess it’s a wiring or computer problem. That will suck. I just need to sell the thing.
Watching you try to pull off the oil pan I knew I wasn’t going to even try hammering it. I used 2 jacks and crow bars and it popped off so easy. Saved me $900 so thanks!
Also - prying from the 2 round openings between the oil pan and transmission where you remove those two rubber covers is the best way to start breaking the seal from the original oil pan gasket!
Hey Man, thanks for taking the time to make this video. Doesn't it piss you off that we have to do all this work on a vehicle that doesn't even have 40k miles on them? I've got toyota's with almost 300k and still going strong.
Yes very frustrating. That being said this Jeep is well over 100k now with a different owner and no major issues that I am aware of. I just recently got rid of my brand new Highlander- only 12k miles and leaking oil, killing batteries, and losing connection with the TPMS sensors. I don't think anyone makes anything really good anymore, and all makes are overpriced now.
FYI, based on this video and the motor city video, I started the oil pump replacement job on my Grand Cherokee 2WD with a 3.6 to fix my P06DE issue. It has a lower pan at the rear that must be removed just to get to one upper pan bolt (stupid design). I got the upper pan to break free and then I found that the front of the upper pan would not drop down enough for removal due to interference with the rack and pinion assembly. I pulled the rack and pinion assembly yesterday (what a pain). I got the upper pan out today and everything is prepped for re-install. The pump should arrive at my AutoZone tomorrow.
The oil pump repair seems to have worked well. After the engine warms up the pressure "shifts" up at 3500 rpm like it is supposed to and shifts back down at something less than 3500 rpm. So far no oil leaks from either pan joints. However, afterward what had been a minor fluid leak in the power steering pump became worse. I am waiting on a rebuilt pump for that repair. I should have studied up better on these newer power steering systems before I put it all back together. Looking back I should have purged the entire system of old fluid (it was not free of debris), bought 2 quarts/liters of the fancy synthetic stuff they use now, refilled with new and then done a vacuum bleed.
That oil pump solenoid is an $85 part that you can order separately, just not from a Mopar dealer. My solenoid was bad too, but from a piece of plastic debris from a previous fix. After nearly 2k spent (I don't do my own work) I'm glad it's over lol.
When this video was made over two years ago the solenoid was a brand new item that had no reviews or recommendations from anyone. This was a big job so I wasn't going to be the guinea pig to test it out. If I had to do it all over again today I would probably still install a brand new Mopar pump assembly.
@@heythere6983 he's saying that he could've just changed the oil pump solenoid which is only $80ish but since it's such a large job that he would still replace the entire Oil pump assembly(instead of just the solenoid) for $225ish dollars.
I have 2015 3.6l dodge durango and, also need to do this, because upper oil pan is leaking and need to remove. Any possible idea how to this job, because I have cross member coolant lines, rack pinion etc, in the way, Thanks
What year is your I’m trying to find it on my dash where I can see the oil pressure and can’t find that mode on mine and it’s a2012 Jeep Wrangler unlimited
It really bums me out I took it to my dealership several times while it was under warranty at they refused to fix it and now I’m out of warranty and this problem remains.
Contact Chrysler consumer affars, If you can prove you had the problem while the car was under warranty they will probably have the dealer perform the repair. Don't let a Douchy sevice advisor push you around. you can probably take it to another dealership if you had too. I am a dealership technician by the way, Worked at a Chrysler dealer back in the mid 2000's .
Great video. I’m about to jump into this as well. Do you have a link to the document you read to get torque specs and step by step? Want to have that as well. Thanks
@@HardEarnedBacon literally just got done. I ended up doing only the solenoid. This video was extremely helpful and I appreciate the hard work you did to document every step. Awesome job and thank you!!!
No, not on a JK. I watched that video too and even bought the 10mm special socket but that method only works on FWD vehicles where the lower pan is directly below the pump. On the JK the pump is completely contained inside the upper pan and there is no way to remove it without dropping the upper pan. Different pan designs so no shortcut. The good news is that the upper pan is fully accessible on the JK and there isn’t much that gets in the way when dropping it.
Where did u find all the factory torque specs. Did everything work out. Do you still have the jeep. My dealership wanted 1500 to do this. I almost shit myself. Did the pump ever go out again?
You don’t want to know……….. just did mine yesterday and finished up today. It’s all the way at the back of your oil filter housing. You tube doorman oil cooler replacement jeep jk. You’ll see.
3.6 Pentastar Dude not from Mopar. I was not willing to risk installing an aftermarket part in this case and did not want to do it all over again if the aftermarket solenoid was junk after 6 months. Motorcity Mechanic has the same opinion so I followed his advice.
@@alexanderlau5900 powertrain is 100k but only for 5 years. Mine is a 2014 and is 6 years old now. Jeep has 46k on it now but it doesn't matter because the warranty expired in mid 2019.
Sensor is under the lower intake manifold on the cooler/ filter it’s best to change it as an Assembly and spark plugs as they are under upper intake. Don’t forget to get intake gaskets and injector “O” rings
THIS is why DIAGNOSTICS are important. With a Proper Bi Directional scanner, you could have diagnosed that properly and not wasted money replacing parts not needed and 8 hours of your time.
Davipersob is correct. If you had actually paid attention to the video you would have seen that I did perform DIAGNOSTICS and PAID THE DEALER to do the same. Dumb comment.
Joe Daro is a special kind of dumb. Hate it when someone posts some jackass reply to your video that totally comes from left field and completely wrong. Kid clearly states at the beginning of his video (while sitting in the dealer parking lot) that he had the problems diagnosed and confirmed by the service tech.
Trust yourself only. A good tool will allow u to test all this stuff...FYI. Upper pan stays on Just need 1/4" 10mm and quite a few extensions and swivels
I just did this - P0520 is usually the sensor - P06DD or PO6De can be the solenoid or the pump - but try fixing he P0520 first - then change oil and filter. Might get lucky.
I got p0520 and p0522. Changed the oil filter housing with sensors, now I only have p0522.
My upper pan is leaking and I need to fix it and this gave me a good look at what I’m going to have to do. No other videos like this on TH-cam. Thank you
No problem I hope it helps. I couldn't find a full video like this either when preparing to do the work so I decided to make sure I filmed everything. Good luck with your fix.
Honestly, when my dad and I saw you hammering from the top to separate the oil pan I thought you were off your rocker. But holy crap, if that's not the ticket to get that dang three bond apart. Many thanks my friend! Got my P06DD code to go away. (had done the oil cooler last year)
Glad to help! Yeah that three bond is a PITA.
You are a real warrior my friend. I’m looking at replacing my upper oil.pan gasket to solve a leak problem. I appreciate your efforts here and sharing your lessons learned.
Thanks glad to help
Thanks for this video, was able to complete most of this project in about 2 hours. But unfortunately I broke the dipstick tube so I'm waiting on a new part to arrive before I can finish. But especially thanks for including the torque specs, much appreciated!!!
Glad it helped!
You sir, I offer my greatest Thanks!
After searching through forums to the issue I was having, my dad and I found your video and watched it multiple times. Without your help, replacing the Oil Pump would have been a multiple day job! We worked with a “retiring” mechanic we know and borrowed his lift which helped but Thanks to You, we were done in a day!
You did a tremendous job and made a fine video Sir!
Only note for future viewers… we removed the two 10mm hidden bolts and all but 4 of the 13mm bolts on the oil pan so that when we broke the seal it wouldn’t kill us or break on the floor . Our mechanic supervisor helped us on the seals; he stuck a long screw driver into the hidden bolt openings (where the rubber caps rested) and popped the seals loose in a split second… before that my dad and I were having as much trouble as you did ha.
Thanks for the comment, glad the video helped. I couldn't find anything specific to JKs when I was looking to do this work so I made sure to film it.
I stuck at the pan breaking loose!
Great content here.
1st and only full video of the requirements to get this job DONE!
THANK YOU!
I appreciate you sharing your video. Before TH-cam was around you had to just take your vehicle to a shop but now you can see exactly how to do something and decide if it’s something you can do or not.
Thanks for the shout out! Much appreciated
Your videos are much appreciated!
In couldn’t get the upper pan to break loose after prying on it for an hour, then I noticed a small tab sticking out on the front, passenger side of the oil pan. I stuck a piece of 1x1 scrap wood that I had down between the radiator and the engine. It only took two taps on the wood from above on that flange to break it free.
I don't know what you do for a living but you would make a great I&E (instrument and electrical)mechanic. I worked in the oil industry and respect your talent.
Thank you I appreciate that. I am a construction manager in the telecommunications industry but started out as a field tech after college.
I did this same repair on my 2013 JK. Drove the front up on car ramps to give me more room under the Jeep. I did not replace the oil pump, I just replaced the solenoid. There is nothing wrong with the oil pump, its only the solenoid that fails. Mopar doesn't sell the solenoid separately. The part number for just the solenoid is J53001. If you Google that part number a number of parts stores sell it for under $85. You still have to remove the whole oil pump from the block because the connector doesn't fit through the opening between the block and the oil pump. Otherwise, its the same job. Great video of the hell we both went through - LOL!
I saw the solenoid was separate at auto parts stores but couldn’t find any info or reviews on it. Didn’t want to risk it failing after a month or something like that lol
I have an oil pressure sensor go off . Code p06da I believe . Mechanic wasted my time and said it was just the sensor. A few hundred later it was not the sensor.
I saw online it can relate to a short with the cables or the solenoid.
My oil pressure is totally normal. As far as I know it’s a two part pump so I’d pay about 500-600 for the replacement oil pump parts(left and right). I’m not handy enough to do this myself nor do o have the tools so I still have to take it to a mechanic.
I wonder how long it will take . For some reason Iv seen people say it takes 11 hours on here with other vehicles
I just bought a new pump from the jeep dealer for 170, gotta install it soon. I say do the whole pump and be done with a factory part.
Good ass video bro...you inspire us...man i was so entertained just watching you work...looking foward too seeing part 2 ...to clear the 2nd code you still have...
Thank you for the great feedback!
Ive been looking for a video on how to do this for MONTHS and yours finally popped up. Thank you for the video and guidence. Ill be doing this in a couple weeks. You're awesome good sir. 💪🏽
no
My jeep is in the shop right now same issue. They are charging 3900 to change pump lol.
That is insane. Maybe I need to do these as a side hustle at this point.
Dude, that was amazing and very detailed, thanks for your patience on capturing your every move. I have a 2012 JKU that has been throwing the P06DD code for several months. Dealer swapped out my oil cooler assembly due to my filter housing all cracked (stupid plastic design) but that cost $$, had my plugs replaced also since the top end was off. Anyway code came back, went into limp mode once but stopped after I restarted,
making me think its that sensor. Dealer wants $900 + to replace but after watching your video I know i can do this, although there will be allot of cussing and bourbon at the end. One question, did new pump come with instructions or at least torque specs.
Thanks again for putting this on TH-cam.
Cheers.
The new pump didn't come with any instructions or torque specs, I had to look them up. I wrote them down before I started working for quick reference when I got to that step.
I had the P06DD as well, swapped out the oil cooler with one of the newer aluminum assemblies. Got my code off long enough to pass TX inspection, but then it came back. Hopefully the new pump does the trick. If not, I guess it’s a wiring or computer problem. That will suck. I just need to sell the thing.
Watching you try to pull off the oil pan I knew I wasn’t going to even try hammering it. I used 2 jacks and crow bars and it popped off so easy. Saved me $900 so thanks!
Could you please explain how you used 2 jacks with the crowbar to pop the oil pan off thanks in advance
Can you explain in more detail how you did this?
Great job on the video. Very detailed and easy to follow along.
Great video! Thanks for being so in-depth
Great video! I see Dorman now sells the solenoid separate.
Also - prying from the 2 round openings between the oil pan and transmission where you remove those two rubber covers is the best way to start breaking the seal from the original oil pan gasket!
Is it? Seems like the metal is thinner there. What did you use to pry?
@@armaletalia3254 careful with how you pry, the flex plate is up in there. I wouldn’t want to use it for leverage, it definitely can crack.
Thank you very much for a detailed video on this job.
Dude you’re hilarious! Great work! I liked and subscribed!!
Haha thanks
Amazing video dude I wish I can buy you a beer 👍🏻 thanks man 👊🏻
🍻
Hey Man, thanks for taking the time to make this video. Doesn't it piss you off that we have to do all this work on a vehicle that doesn't even have 40k miles on them? I've got toyota's with almost 300k and still going strong.
Yes very frustrating. That being said this Jeep is well over 100k now with a different owner and no major issues that I am aware of. I just recently got rid of my brand new Highlander- only 12k miles and leaking oil, killing batteries, and losing connection with the TPMS sensors. I don't think anyone makes anything really good anymore, and all makes are overpriced now.
FYI, based on this video and the motor city video, I started the oil pump replacement job on my Grand Cherokee 2WD with a 3.6 to fix my P06DE issue. It has a lower pan at the rear that must be removed just to get to one upper pan bolt (stupid design). I got the upper pan to break free and then I found that the front of the upper pan would not drop down enough for removal due to interference with the rack and pinion assembly. I pulled the rack and pinion assembly yesterday (what a pain). I got the upper pan out today and everything is prepped for re-install. The pump should arrive at my AutoZone tomorrow.
Hope it all went back together smoothly
The oil pump repair seems to have worked well. After the engine warms up the pressure "shifts" up at 3500 rpm like it is supposed to and shifts back down at something less than 3500 rpm. So far no oil leaks from either pan joints. However, afterward what had been a minor fluid leak in the power steering pump became worse. I am waiting on a rebuilt pump for that repair. I should have studied up better on these newer power steering systems before I put it all back together. Looking back I should have purged the entire system of old fluid (it was not free of debris), bought 2 quarts/liters of the fancy synthetic stuff they use now, refilled with new and then done a vacuum bleed.
That oil pump solenoid is an $85 part that you can order separately, just not from a Mopar dealer. My solenoid was bad too, but from a piece of plastic debris from a previous fix. After nearly 2k spent (I don't do my own work) I'm glad it's over lol.
When this video was made over two years ago the solenoid was a brand new item that had no reviews or recommendations from anyone. This was a big job so I wasn't going to be the guinea pig to test it out. If I had to do it all over again today I would probably still install a brand new Mopar pump assembly.
Wait so it still cost 2k to get someone to install the one piece? Please say no
@@heythere6983 he's saying that he could've just changed the oil pump solenoid which is only $80ish but since it's such a large job that he would still replace the entire Oil pump assembly(instead of just the solenoid) for $225ish dollars.
Thank you for this great video. Exactly what I needed. keep doing similar videos...
Glad to help thanks for commenting
I have 2015 3.6l dodge durango and, also need to do this, because upper oil pan is leaking and need to remove. Any possible idea how to this job, because I have cross member coolant lines, rack pinion etc, in the way, Thanks
Thanks for this video. Great job. I am looking to do this same job. Shop wanted to charge me 450.00. And looking to do my rear main seal. After that.
What year is your I’m trying to find it on my dash where I can see the oil pressure and can’t find that mode on mine and it’s a2012 Jeep Wrangler unlimited
Great video 👍🏻
Great video! Very detailed. Exactly what I needed. Do you have a link to the Christmas tree puller?
If you search "panel clip remover" you can find it. Mine is a no-name brand that I got from a parts store I think.
nice job ! you made it look easy. cant wait to do mine.(not)!!!!!
It really bums me out I took it to my dealership several times while it was under warranty at they refused to fix it and now I’m out of warranty and this problem remains.
Contact Chrysler consumer affars, If you can prove you had the problem while the car was under warranty they will probably have the dealer perform the repair. Don't let a Douchy sevice advisor push you around. you can probably take it to another dealership if you had too. I am a dealership technician by the way, Worked at a Chrysler dealer back in the mid 2000's .
How did that gray Rtv work out. Gonna reseal my leaking upper pan. Want to see what three bond alternative works good
No leaks or issues
Great video. I’m about to jump into this as well. Do you have a link to the document you read to get torque specs and step by step? Want to have that as well. Thanks
I used MotorCity Mechanic's videos and Nomad's JKU blog, both are linked in the description.
@@HardEarnedBacon literally just got done. I ended up doing only the solenoid. This video was extremely helpful and I appreciate the hard work you did to document every step. Awesome job and thank you!!!
@@lloydrage awesome glad it helped!
@ 19:03 I feel you man. Every fucking thing on the 3.6l in the Grand Cherokee is pure punishment to get to. Mopar got us for sure 🤣
When your oil pump went out what code did it throw
Haha those damn clips man. Unreasonably difficult
Jarred Coolidge I hate them so much
Hey man I watched another video were you could replace the pump by just taking the lower pan off. Think it can be done??
No, not on a JK. I watched that video too and even bought the 10mm special socket but that method only works on FWD vehicles where the lower pan is directly below the pump. On the JK the pump is completely contained inside the upper pan and there is no way to remove it without dropping the upper pan. Different pan designs so no shortcut. The good news is that the upper pan is fully accessible on the JK and there isn’t much that gets in the way when dropping it.
Hard Earned Bacon well that kinda sucks but if I have to go that route I will. I’m gonna try the sensor first though. I’m getting the p066d code
Nemo yep I hear you. I’ll be doing the sensor next weekend, still waiting for it to arrive. Hopefully that fixes it for both of us.
Hard Earned Bacon subbed ya bro! Be looking out for that video for sure
@@nemoishouse did the sensor fix your problem
Where did u find all the factory torque specs. Did everything work out. Do you still have the jeep. My dealership wanted 1500 to do this. I almost shit myself. Did the pump ever go out again?
Motorcity mechanic has them in his video. Everything worked fine and the Jeep has been on the road for years since this with no problems.
Did you have to have the computer reset at the dealer to get it out of limp mode? Or will disconnecting the battery do that?
Disconnecting the battery is all it takes
Is there a reason you couldn’t use the shortcut method that motor city mechanic shows? I am about to attempt this job
No shortcut for JKs
Hard Earned Bacon yea there is. th-cam.com/video/3JdGMN0r7yU/w-d-xo.html
Hard Earned Bacon only remove lower pan and use the flex socket
It says fwd but why not on wrangler jk?
Steve P no, there isn’t. Pan designs are completely different on FWD. Read my responses to Nemo’s comment from 6 months ago.
How did you know it was the oil pump instead of the oil cooler ,oil temp or oil pressure sensor?
Online research of the codes and I had it diagnosed by the dealer. Needed the oil pressure sensor too as it turned out.
Thanks where is the oil pressure sensor. My 12 Wrangler acting up again with PO6D code again.
You don’t want to know……….. just did mine yesterday and finished up today. It’s all the way at the back of your oil filter housing. You tube doorman oil cooler replacement jeep jk. You’ll see.
How many miles did this have when the oil pump went out? And what kind of oil do you run?
Just under 40k. I always used Mobil 1 5W-20 prior to the pump going bad. After this repair I switched to Valvoline synthetic blend 5W-20.
The selonoid is sold separately now
3.6 Pentastar Dude not from Mopar. I was not willing to risk installing an aftermarket part in this case and did not want to do it all over again if the aftermarket solenoid was junk after 6 months. Motorcity Mechanic has the same opinion so I followed his advice.
Was one tube of RTV enough
Plenty
So the oil pump isn't covered by the powertrain warranty?
It is but mine was 6 months outside the warranty.
Oh, cause in the video you only have 39,000 miles. I thought powertrain is 60k.
@@alexanderlau5900 powertrain is 100k but only for 5 years. Mine is a 2014 and is 6 years old now. Jeep has 46k on it now but it doesn't matter because the warranty expired in mid 2019.
Wow, mines 2014 too, and figured out the oil housing is leaking... Since I bought certified preowned im praying the powertrain warranty will cover it.
Does this mess with the timing at all
Nope
There is no timing requirement for the oil pump.
How long did this take to do?
About 8 hours with filming
@@HardEarnedBacon thanks!
Where is the sensor did you change it
Sensor is under the lower intake manifold on the cooler/ filter it’s best to change it as an Assembly and spark plugs as they are under upper intake. Don’t forget to get intake gaskets and injector “O” rings
It's a bad oil pressure sensor by the looks of it.
fkn nightmare
THIS is why DIAGNOSTICS are important. With a Proper Bi Directional scanner, you could have diagnosed that properly and not wasted money replacing parts not needed and 8 hours of your time.
He did do diog. And even went to the dealer to confirm. Right at the beginning of the video
Davipersob is correct. If you had actually paid attention to the video you would have seen that I did perform DIAGNOSTICS and PAID THE DEALER to do the same. Dumb comment.
Joe Daro is a special kind of dumb. Hate it when someone posts some jackass reply to your video that totally comes from left field and completely wrong. Kid clearly states at the beginning of his video (while sitting in the dealer parking lot) that he had the problems diagnosed and confirmed by the service tech.
Trust yourself only. A good tool will allow u to test all this stuff...FYI. Upper pan stays on
Just need 1/4" 10mm and quite a few extensions and swivels
@@pauljoey7977 incorrect